I need a small brass screw to repair an old lighter. I'm sorta
"trolling" to find a source for one. it's 0.360" long with a shaft is
about 0.050" in diameter. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Thanks in advance!


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On Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:54:53 -0500, Jeepers
wrote:

I need a small brass screw to repair an old lighter. I'm sorta
"trolling" to find a source for one. it's 0.360" long with a shaft is
about 0.050" in diameter. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Heck, if you post the actual thread pitch, diameter and length,
somebody here on r.c.m can probably make you one. Or if you say where
you are, one of us nearby might be able to check those measurements
for you and you could pick one up at your local hardware store...

Al Moore

Jeepers wrote:
I need a small brass screw to repair an old lighter. I'm sorta
"trolling" to find a source for one. it's 0.360" long with a shaft is
about 0.050" in diameter. Can someone point me in the right direction?

It would be useful if you mentioned the thread pitch, head shape, and
drive type. A #0-80 thread is .060 od and a common American/english
size. In metric 1.2x.25 (.0472"od) and 1.4x.3 (.0551"od) are common
sizes.
There are other possibilities.
--
Lou Boyd

On Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:54:53 -0500, Jeepers
wrote:

I need a small brass screw to repair an old lighter. I'm sorta
"trolling" to find a source for one. it's 0.360" long with a shaft is
about 0.050" in diameter. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Optician or watch repair shop. That's a bolt to a watch repairman.

Model Train Shop. They have lots of itty bitty screws. Or buy an old
lighter at a thrit store or garage sale for parts

Try a local watchmaker/jeweller or optician

If you have ever trashed an old cheapo digital watch. and I mean those real
cheap ones for a couple of dollars you can salvage some real small screws.

regards
JimboD
"Jeepers" wrote in message
...
I need a small brass screw to repair an old lighter. I'm sorta
"trolling" to find a source for one. it's 0.360" long with a shaft is
about 0.050" in diameter. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Thanks in advance!


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Go to smallparts.com


--
Scott A. Bregi

Model Building is FUN!.........model building is fun.......model building is
?$#!!*?##!%$?&%$##!!



"Jeepers" wrote in message
...
I need a small brass screw to repair an old lighter. I'm sorta
"trolling" to find a source for one. it's 0.360" long with a shaft is
about 0.050" in diameter. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Thanks in advance!


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In article ,
Alan Moore wrote:

On Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:54:53 -0500, Jeepers
wrote:

I need a small brass screw to repair an old lighter. I'm sorta
"trolling" to find a source for one. it's 0.360" long with a shaft is
about 0.050" in diameter. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Heck, if you post the actual thread pitch, diameter and length,
somebody here on r.c.m can probably make you one. Or if you say where
you are, one of us nearby might be able to check those measurements
for you and you could pick one up at your local hardware store...

Al Moore

The thread is broken off in another part. The total length was about
..360" long, too long for a watch or glasses.

Head width: .095"
head thickness: .020
shaft thickness: .050
unknown thread pitch

I also need the part it screws into, but that is a simple part to make.


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In article ,
Don Foreman wrote:

On Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:54:53 -0500, Jeepers
wrote:

I need a small brass screw to repair an old lighter. I'm sorta
"trolling" to find a source for one. it's 0.360" long with a shaft is
about 0.050" in diameter. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Optician or watch repair shop. That's a bolt to a watch repairman.

It's too big for any watch.


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In article ,
(dann mann) wrote:

Model Train Shop. They have lots of itty bitty screws. Or buy an old
lighter at a thrit store or garage sale for parts





I'm VERY rural.

Know of any in South Texas?


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In article ,
Charles wrote:


These folks have small screws:

www.micromark.com


Thanks I'll go look!


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In article ,
Louis Boyd wrote:

Jeepers wrote:
I need a small brass screw to repair an old lighter. I'm sorta
"trolling" to find a source for one. it's 0.360" long with a shaft is
about 0.050" in diameter. Can someone point me in the right direction?

It would be useful if you mentioned the thread pitch, head shape, and
drive type. A #0-80 thread is .060 od and a common American/english
size. In metric 1.2x.25 (.0472"od) and 1.4x.3 (.0551"od) are common
sizes.
There are other possibilities.
--
Lou Boyd


head diameter: .095"
shaft diameter: .050
overall length: .360
thread pitch unknown: broken off in another piece


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In article ,
"Roger Shoaf" wrote:

I would go to your local optician. they have a large selection of mini
screws and also have mini taps if they have a screw that is slightly larger.

--
Roger Shoaf

too big for glasses or watches


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In article uZrWa.331$ug.44@lakeread01,
"Scott A. Bregi" wrote:

Go to smallparts.com

Cool, I'll go look there, thanks!


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All manner of screws, washers, nuts bolts, and taps!!!

http://www.microfasteners.com/


"Jeepers" wrote in message
...
I need a small brass screw to repair an old lighter. I'm sorta
"trolling" to find a source for one. it's 0.360" long with a shaft is
about 0.050" in diameter. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Thanks in advance!


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Try he

http://www.microfasteners.com


Regards,

Marv

Jeepers wrote:
In article ,
Alan Moore wrote:


On Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:54:53 -0500, Jeepers
wrote:


I need a small brass screw to repair an old lighter. I'm sorta
"trolling" to find a source for one. it's 0.360" long with a shaft is
about 0.050" in diameter. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Heck, if you post the actual thread pitch, diameter and length,
somebody here on r.c.m can probably make you one. Or if you say where
you are, one of us nearby might be able to check those measurements
for you and you could pick one up at your local hardware store...

Al Moore


The thread is broken off in another part. The total length was about
.360" long, too long for a watch or glasses.

Head width: .095"
head thickness: .020
shaft thickness: .050
unknown thread pitch

I also need the part it screws into, but that is a simple part to make.


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In article
,
Marv Soloff wrote:

http://www.microfasteners.com

Thanks! I'm having trouble describing the screw, I mean, which size is
it?


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The "0" is the machine screw number, the "80" is 80 threads per inch,
the last number is the length. Check this chart, it appears you need
either a 0-80 or 00-90:

http://www.csgnetwork.com/screwnummachtable.html

Of course, if the lighter is imported you might need a metric size...


Jeepers wrote:
In article ,
Don Stauffer wrote:


A company called Micro Fasteners specializes in small screws. I think
they have a web site, do a search on the name.


Will do.

How does one name these small screws? I mean there appears to be a
system for them ie:
0-80 x 9/16
or
4-40x7/8

what is the "0-80" ?


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Jeepers wrote:

In article ,
Don Stauffer wrote:

A company called Micro Fasteners specializes in small screws. I think
they have a web site, do a search on the name.

Will do.

How does one name these small screws? I mean there appears to be a
system for them ie:
0-80 x 9/16
or
4-40x7/8

what is the "0-80" ?

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Number screws such as 0-80 go thus: the first number is the screw
diameter, the second is the thread pitch in threads per inch. They start
with a #0 having a diameter of .060 thousandths, every number adds .013
thousandths to the diameter for numbers greater than zero, subtracts
..013 for numbers below. So a 4-40x7/8 is 4 x .013 + .060 or .112 in
diameter, with 40 tpi, 7/8 long.

Paul

--
-----------------------------------------
It's a Linux world....well, it oughta be.
-----------------------------------------

O is the the defined standard for the shaft diameter, 80 is threads per
inch, x is by, 9/16 is length but I really doubt you'll even find anyone
stocking an 0-80x9/16" screw, 0-80x1/8" yes.

Jeepers wrote:

In article ,
Don Stauffer wrote:

A company called Micro Fasteners specializes in small screws. I think
they have a web site, do a search on the name.

Will do.

How does one name these small screws? I mean there appears to be a
system for them ie:
0-80 x 9/16
or
4-40x7/8

what is the "0-80" ?

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In article ,
Jeepers wrote:

Could ya'll check this out?:

http://Sprite.viptx.net/~moomesa/screw.html


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In article , Jeepers says...

How does one name these small screws?

The first thing one does is one quits crossposting
a question like this to five different ngs. Really
annoying.

Jim

==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

Nominal size for #0 is 0.060", for #00 is 0.047". 0.05" is 1.27mm.
Kinda caught in between here.

Where are you?

Ted

In article , Jeepers says...

unknown thread pitch

Until you find out what that is, you have zero
chance of matching the correct fastener for replacement.
The 0.050 major diameter roughly matches a number
zero sized screw but it could be a special from the
manufacturer. If you could see how many threads per
inch, by counting the crests under a loupe then you
could find out if it were 80 threads per inch, a common
screw.

Jim

==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

In article , Ted Edwards
wrote:

Nominal size for #0 is 0.060", for #00 is 0.047". 0.05" is 1.27mm.
Kinda caught in between here.

Where are you?

Ted


South Texas

It's for a sentimental brass lighter.

"Casablanca Brass" is all it says. I did a Google and found two online.
One is a new one from a Harley dealer the other is an antique dealer.
Funny they are not old, but the antique dealer wants more than the new
one. I was considering purchasing one of them for just the screw. :(

If I could fab the screw, I would. I used my reloading caliper to
measure it.

You can see the parts at:
http://www.Sprite.viptx.net/~moomesa/screw.html


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In article ,
jim rozen wrote:

In article , Jeepers says...

How does one name these small screws?

The first thing one does is one quits crossposting
a question like this to five different ngs. Really
annoying.

Jim


Jim, you are correct, I goofed. So sorry.


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In article ,
jim rozen wrote:

In article , Jeepers says...

unknown thread pitch

Until you find out what that is, you have zero
chance of matching the correct fastener for replacement.
The 0.050 major diameter roughly matches a number
zero sized screw but it could be a special from the
manufacturer. If you could see how many threads per
inch, by counting the crests under a loupe then you
could find out if it were 80 threads per inch, a common
screw.

Jim


I'm not too concerned about the TPI as it is a brass screw of probably
foreign origin, besides it's broke off in another part. I'll really
probably need to either fab the screw or buy another lighter and
cannibalize it for the one screw. The "nut" it goes into is just a round
piece of brass stock that is threaded, cup style, not all the way
through. Which in turn is simply pressed into a small hole to hold it.

see:
http://www.Sprite.viptx.net/~moomesa/screw.html

The real important part is the shaft. The shaft holds the striker wheel.


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In article ,
Jeepers wrote:

I'm not too concerned about the TPI as it is a brass screw of probably
foreign origin, besides it's broke off in another part. I'll really
probably need to either fab the screw or buy another lighter and
cannibalize it for the one screw. The "nut" it goes into is just a round
piece of brass stock that is threaded, cup style, not all the way
through. Which in turn is simply pressed into a small hole to hold it.

see:
http://www.Sprite.viptx.net/~moomesa/screw.html

The real important part is the shaft. The shaft holds the striker wheel.

DUH! no "www"

http://sprite.viptx.net/~moomesa/screw.html


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In article , Ted Edwards
wrote:

Jeepers wrote:

You can see the parts at:
http://www.Sprite.viptx.net/~moomesa/screw.html

That URL doesn't work.

Ted


That's cause I'm a dumbass and haven't memorized my URL properly, no www.

He
http://sprite.viptx.net/~moomesa/screw.html


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Jeepers wrote:

In article ,
Jeepers wrote:

I'm not too concerned about the TPI as it is a brass screw of probably
foreign origin, besides it's broke off in another part. I'll really
probably need to either fab the screw or buy another lighter and
cannibalize it for the one screw. The "nut" it goes into is just a round
piece of brass stock that is threaded, cup style, not all the way
through. Which in turn is simply pressed into a small hole to hold it.

see:
http://www.Sprite.viptx.net/~moomesa/screw.html

The real important part is the shaft. The shaft holds the striker wheel.

DUH! no "www"

http://sprite.viptx.net/~moomesa/screw.html

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Hey, if you're gonna be making the "nut" piece yourself anyway, they WTF do
you care *what* the existing threads are? Unless you're compulsively anal
about getting an exact match for the original part, that is.

Just pick a screw from a catalog that's close to the right diameter. and make
the "nut" to suit it. It probably won't matter if the threads on a stock screw
extend further up the shank than on the original, I take it from your
description that the striker wheel's "axle" isn't the screw itself.

These guys sell small taps and dies in "one off" quantities.

http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/di...archstring=tap

I'll venture to say that even if you don't have access to a lathe, you could,
with a little patience, make that screw yourself by filing down a piece of
brass rod chucked in an electric drill, threading the end with a die, cutting
it off leaving an oversized head, and then reversing the part in the drill
chuck and bringing the head to final shape with a file. Almost any tiny saw
blade, or even a knife shaped patternmakers file will cut a good enough slot
in the head for "government work".

Jeff (Whose "lathe" for his teen age model railroading years was just a beat
up 1/4" B&D drill.)

--
Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"If you can keep smiling when things go wrong, you've thought of someone to
place the blame on."

jim rozen wrote:

In article , Jeepers says...

How does one name these small screws?

The first thing one does is one quits crossposting
a question like this to five different ngs. Really
annoying.

Jim

==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

Hey, here I go displaying my ignorance again.

I've been seeing rants like Jim's about not cross posting to other newsgroups ever
since I got on the internet, so out of courtesy I have not done so.

But, why not? What's wrong with trying to increase your possibility of success
when searching for information you need? Are we to assume that evrybody in the
world reads all of every single newsgroup, so that posting to just one newsgroup
would be sufficient?

I've note that Coca Cola doesn't limit their advertising to just one newspaper or
magazine, it seems like somewhat the same principle should apply to cross posting,
Once I've read the latest Coke ad I just skip over it when I encounter it in
another periodical.

All I can think of is maybe it's some sort of bandwidth issue which ultimately
ends up coming out of every internet user's wallet. I'm probably missing something
else here, please clue me in.

Thanks guys,

Jeff


--
Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"If you can keep smiling when things go wrong, you've thought of someone to place
the blame on."

In article , Jeff says...

I've been seeing rants like Jim's about not cross posting to other newsgroups

Rants?? RANTS!!? How could you POSSIBLY...

Oh. OK, never mind. They really are rants I guess.

The problem happens when the folks at alt.rv or whatever reply
to the original question. They never trim the ng list as a rule,
so their replies go to *all* the ngs the original requester
sent his query to.

So basically the folks being helpful (in this case rcm) have to
listen to all the other replies to the question. Granted they
could possibly be interested in the replies (probably not in
this case, if I had a threaded fastener question this would
be *the* place to go) but in that case a check of the original
message would show where it went out to (some even say, crossposted
to x, y, z as a favor if the posting was done one ng at a time)
so interested parties can follow the replies.

The problem with crossposting like that is it can rapidly degenerate
into a huge chain reaction with everyone replying to every other
ng. In this case it was inadvertent but often this is done to
troll ngs and excite some controversy. That RSJ guy did that
deliberately with the rv ng and his ISP canned him for it,
deliberate trolling that way (that guy would go back and
put other ngs *into* the header after they had been trimmed out)
is frequently against ISP policy. Because of the fuss and
traffic it causes.

Go back and look, there are a lot of 'tiny brass screw posts'
here now. Most of them are replies from other ngs that show
up here because the 'post to' line was never trimmed.
(rant finis!)

Jim

==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

In article , Jeepers says...

DUH! no "www"

http://sprite.viptx.net/~moomesa/screw.html

OK. Best thing to do is simply fabricate the
screw and the nut from scratch, using a standard
thread. The 0-80 might be too large at 0.060
major diameter, there is a metric thread that
is M1.2 X 0.3 , that translates into 0.047
inch major dia.

Find somebody with a lathe locally and commision
the part in brass, payment in a case of beer or
whatever. Maybe a local high school shop.

You might have to purchase the correct tap and
die from MSC.

Jim

==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

In article ,
jim rozen wrote:

In article , Jeepers says...

DUH! no "www"

http://sprite.viptx.net/~moomesa/screw.html

OK. Best thing to do is simply fabricate the
screw and the nut from scratch, using a standard
thread. The 0-80 might be too large at 0.060
major diameter, there is a metric thread that
is M1.2 X 0.3 , that translates into 0.047
inch major dia.

Find somebody with a lathe locally and commision
the part in brass, payment in a case of beer or
whatever. Maybe a local high school shop.

You might have to purchase the correct tap and
die from MSC.

Jim


I understand. Excellent. Thank you. My father-in-law is a master
locksmith, I know he has a small lathe, perhaps he has a small die, if
not, MSC. I picked up some stock from a Tractor Supply this afternoon.
$2.79

Ironically, my Zippo came back in the mail today.

I'm fixing the Casablaca anyway.

Thanks Jim.


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In article ,
"Pete Sampogna" wrote:

try smallparts.com

Thanks Pete. I'm gonna try to fabricate it. Wish me luck.


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jim rozen wrote:



Go back and look, there are a lot of 'tiny brass screw posts'
here now. Most of them are replies from other ngs that show
up here because the 'post to' line was never trimmed.
(rant finis!)

Jim

==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

Gotcha Jim..(I think..)

So, my understanding now is that the damnable "crossposting" activity involves
posting a message to multiple newsgroups by putting multiple newsgoups in the "to"
headers.

From that I assume that there's nothing gosh about posting the same message to
multiple newsgroups if it's done by means of separate posts of the same message to
each newsgroup.

Dis I get it right?

Jeff
--

Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"I before E except after C"....(The height of insufficient weird ancient
science...)

In article ,
Jeff Wisnia wrote:


jim rozen wrote:



Go back and look, there are a lot of 'tiny brass screw posts'
here now. Most of them are replies from other ngs that show
up here because the 'post to' line was never trimmed.
(rant finis!)

[ ... ]

Gotcha Jim..(I think..)

So, my understanding now is that the damnable "crossposting" activity involves
posting a message to multiple newsgroups by putting multiple newsgoups in the "to"
headers.

Except that the "To: " header does not exist in usenet
newsgroups. (Though it might on some broken newsreaders, such as
browsers pretending to be an e-mail client and a newsreader, and a bunch
of other things, or if an e-mail copy is CC'd to someone.) The header
which is important here is the "Newsgroups: " header.

From that I assume that there's nothing gosh about posting the same message to
multiple newsgroups if it's done by means of separate posts of the same message to
each newsgroup.

Dis I get it right?

An alternative is to cross post it, but to set the "Followup-To: "
header to point to a single newsgroup -- the one in which you expect to
be following the answers, and to *note*:

"Followups set to rec.crafts.metalworking"

in the body of the message, so people don't post a reply in their own
newsgroup, then not see it appear, and post it again ... and again ... :-)

This is the proper (and designed into usenet) way of asking a
question in multiple newsgroups, but keeping the resulting discussion in
a single newsgroup.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"Jeepers" wrote in message
...
.360" long, too long for a watch or glasses.


Check with the optician. They have longer screws for the older horn rims
and then they put a nut on the end and snip off the excess.

--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.

Yes, the nomenclature goes like this. First is the diameter of the
screw. Like for wire gauge, rather than physical size in fractions of
an inch, for example, there are numbers. The higher the number, the
smaller the diameter. A few numbers do correspond to reasonable
fractions, i.e, #10 is about 3/16 of an inch. You need a screw chart to
figure out actual diameter.

Next value is threads per inch. There are two very popular screw
series, National Fine and National Coarse. The fine thread series is
sometimes called SAE, because they are popular in automobiles.

Last number is length of screw in inches.

Another necessary part of a screw nomenclature is the head type.

It used to be you needed expensive handbooks that had the necessary
charts. There are now some on the internet. I don't have addresses,
though. I just downloaded it and printed it for my wall in shop. These
charts identify the correct drill size to drill if you will be threading
the hole, and the right drill for the screw to go in without threads
(clearance size).

If you plan to use such screws, you should get ahold of one of those
charts. Anyone have a URL for one of those web sites?

Jeepers wrote:

In article ,
Don Stauffer wrote:

A company called Micro Fasteners specializes in small screws. I think
they have a web site, do a search on the name.

Will do.

How does one name these small screws? I mean there appears to be a
system for them ie:
0-80 x 9/16
or
4-40x7/8

what is the "0-80" ?

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--
Don Stauffer in Minnesota

webpage- http://www.usfamily.net/web/stauffer