Orrin Iseminger wrote:

... I bought a used lathe that was in good shape, but I knew
something was amiss when I spotted a crude shim between the headstock
and the bed. Many days of bluing and scraping along with R-D-M to
check my work eventually paid off.

I guess a lotta work can be involved in that, but it doesn't scare me
like the thought of scraping down the bed. Mine is only a 9" lathe,
but the bed is five feet long, and that's a great big arena for
making mistakes. I don't know what Joe HSM would use for a
straightedge; but even with the proper tools, it would be hard to
scrape the whole bed straight.

God help me, I kind of enjoy scraping. I don't know why. I think it
has to do with making a reeeeeally true surface out of thin air. But
I'm still glad that my lathe only needed scraping on the tailstock.
It was a nice, bite sized job.

Pete

--
Artful Bodger
http://www.artfulbodger.net

wrote:

A lathe with two headstock
feet and a single tailstock foot would be ideal. It seems you could
plunk such on a level floot and go right to work because three point
contact defines the position.

I don't know why all lathes, or at least all benchtop lathes, aren't
made with three feet. There's no such thing as a wobbly three-legged
stool.

I've thought of putting an iron block under the tail-end feet of my
lathe: both feet would bolt to it, and its bottom would be a shallow
vee. There would be a narrow land in the center, with a single bolt
hole for mounting to the bench. Of course I'd put the head end on a
similar, but flat bottomed, block.

The only problem I can think of is that everything could end up too
flexible. I don't know. Would my nice, fairly stiff lathe get all
vibratey if I did this? Anyone got any thoughts about it?

--
Artful Bodger
http://www.artfulbodger.net

"artfulbodger" wrote in message
...
Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:

I am not a fan of SB lathes, never have been. I'm turned
off by their insistence of sticking to old technology, flat belt
drive....
It's just a personal bias. I realize that they are worshipped by many.

I have nothing to compare to: my SB9 is the only lathe I've ever
used. It's old (1946), and simple, which I like; it can do good
work, and it's very quiet, which matters to me more than it should.
(I don't know why. I like its calm, low note as it munches through
steel.) There's something fitting in using a leather-belted machine
to make the hardware for a steam launch.

But worship? Nooooo, uh-uh. If I could get my hands on something
five times as heavy and ten times as powerful and a half-century
newer, shoot, I'd do it right quick.

All it would take is one experience, where you have a serious amount of
metal to move, and you do it. From that day forward, it would be difficult
to revert back to the belt slapping. Mind you, I fully appreciate all the
things you've said, and even agree, in some small way, with your thoughts.
Trouble is, when you've run machines for gain and must perform, it's a
different world. Many of us don't use machines for therapy, we use them to
accomplish a given task. When there's a basement to be dug, I can't get
interested in doing it with a spade, not when there's a back hoe available
that will get it done in an afternoon. I gather you feel the same way,
but don't have access to the back hoe.

What I don't really like on machine tools is electronics. It's an
aesthetic thing, I guess. Iron lasts a hundred years, circuitry goes
"bzzt" and lets you down. Once the magic smoke leaks out of a chip,
that's that. But I think the real issue is that I make a living of
computer geekery, and when I'm in the shop I want to get as far from
such stuff as I can. I don't even like digital calipers.

On that, we agree totally. One of the things about which I'm most proud
is the fact that I can operate machine tools with the screws, and enjoy
success. I do not, nor have I ever, used a DRO, nor do I care to. I am
not CNC literate, choosing, instead, to do it the hard way. I came from a
generation that had to learn procedures, there were no magic bullets that
permitted one to run the machines without knowledge, hopefully gaining skill
in the bargain. Using a DRO is akin to using carbide inserts in lieu of
learning how to sharpen cutters. It is yet another tool that permits one to
operate a machine without gaining the skills that would normally be
necessary. The world is raising *machinists* that don't have a clue about
machining. I choose to not be a part of that generation. Like you, all my
measuring instruments are manual. I do not own anything that requires a
battery.


I know, I know....

It appears you do! g

Harold

Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:

I do not, nor have I ever, used a DRO, nor do I care to.

I was corresponding lately with an Aussie who's built a gorgeous
triple-expansion steam engine to put in his launch. Intricate
design, really nice work. Like me, the guy's a self-taught amateur,
but anyway his results are pretty.

He swears there's no way he could've done the job without a DRO.
It's absolutely essential, he says, period. Me, I wouldn't mind
using one because a lot of tasks would be speeded up; but
indispensable? I dunno, I've never used one, but it seems like with
a little more care and a lot more math I can do fine without. Great
timesaver, sure, but I'd rather take the grand or two that it would
cost and put the money into better machines.

It is yet another tool that permits one to operate a machine
gaining the skills that would normally be necessary.

Eh, yeah, true. But it always happens. Skill is the priciest
ingredient in making things, so they always look for a way to make a
process dummyproof. Why pay a skilled tradesman a lot of dollars
when you can just give a monkey a banana and get the same work done?

It's sad to see it happen, but a lot of trades have just gone away.
Are there any skilled shoemakers on the planet? (Beats me. Not
many.) Cars used to be lacquered by hand, with camel hair brushes:
auto painting was a very involved trade by itself. But spray
equipment is cheaper than skill, and that trade went away. Tailors,
potters, glassblowers, boatbuilders ... think of plasterers:
sheetrock takes little skill and the results are pretty good, so now
there are no real plasterers around.

Market economy. I can't fault the companies who want their products
made by less skilled people: gotta stay competitive. I'm sure you're
right that it has changed the trade, maybe degraded it. But at
bottom, the reason we have technology is so we don't have to have
skill.

Anyway in machining, even if the average skill level goes down,
probably there will always be those few wizards around who can do
anything.

As a hobbyist I'm lucky: no bottom line to worry about. I can do
things the hard way and nobody can fire me for it. You should've
seen me doing the bolt circle on a steam engine's cylinder head ...
with toolmaker's buttons, just for the fun.

Pete

--
Artful Bodger
http://www.artfulbodger.net

In article ,
artfulbodger wrote:
wrote:

A lathe with two headstock
feet and a single tailstock foot would be ideal. It seems you could
plunk such on a level floot and go right to work because three point
contact defines the position.

I don't know why all lathes, or at least all benchtop lathes, aren't
made with three feet. There's no such thing as a wobbly three-legged
stool.

Consider the possibility of the bed having machined without
sufficient time for it to stress relieve. (They used to allow them to
season for some time after roughing before final machining.)

Now, the bed will warp *after* final machining. With a
three-point suspension, you have no way to apply stress to cancel that
warp. With four-point, you are fine.

Of course, jeweler's lathes are single-point support -- a column
under the headstock end. But the overall design suggest to me that
there is very little need to make provisions for corrective stress on
those -- there is a *lot* of meat in the beds for their size.

Now -- also think of a long bed lathe, with a fairly heavy cut.
This could introduce twist to the bed under load -- either a cut from
the carriage, or twist applied by driving a big drill bit into the
workpiece. For something like this, the four-foot design gives it extra
anti-twist support.

But -- FWIW -- the Atlas/Clausing 6x18 lathe has a three-point
mounting -- at least my old one with sleeve bearings and a blue paintjob
does. I believe that the later ones with the ball or tapered roler
bearings in the headstock have the four-point mounting.

I've thought of putting an iron block under the tail-end feet of my
lathe: both feet would bolt to it, and its bottom would be a shallow
vee. There would be a narrow land in the center, with a single bolt
hole for mounting to the bench. Of course I'd put the head end on a
similar, but flat bottomed, block.

The only problem I can think of is that everything could end up too
flexible. I don't know. Would my nice, fairly stiff lathe get all
vibratey if I did this? Anyone got any thoughts about it?

Try it and find out. Try heavy drilling with a Morse taper
twist drill in the tailstock taper. Try heavy cuts near the end of the
bed. See what happens.

Be prepared to make a second tailstock end block with all four
feet if it introduces problems.

And report back on your results.

Right now, I like the four-foot mount for my Clausing, with
factory supplied hollow bolts threaded through the feet, and smaller
bolts through it all to clamp it down to the factory pedestal. I did
have to do a bit of tuning to get everything level. And that was not
that long a bed (24" between centers) for the size of the swing (12")
and the bed width.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"artfulbodger" wrote in message
...
Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:

I do not, nor have I ever, used a DRO, nor do I care to.

I was corresponding lately with an Aussie who's built a gorgeous
triple-expansion steam engine to put in his launch. Intricate
design, really nice work. Like me, the guy's a self-taught amateur,
but anyway his results are pretty.

He swears there's no way he could've done the job without a DRO.
It's absolutely essential, he says, period.

The key here is what you said in the last sentence, first paragraph. I
would likely agree, considering he is not a seasoned machinist. Using
screws properly does not come easily, nor is there any indication that you
have screwed up, not, at least, until you're finished with the operation.
(Don't ask). The scrap I made gaining the skills to use screws reliably was
criminal. Why I was kept on the job continues to baffle me these 45 years
later.

Me, I wouldn't mind
using one because a lot of tasks would be speeded up; but
indispensable? I dunno, I've never used one, but it seems like with
a little more care and a lot more math I can do fine without. Great
timesaver, sure, but I'd rather take the grand or two that it would
cost and put the money into better machines.

You'll also come out with greater skills. In place of a DRO, always check
each move with a 6" scale (or larger, if necessary). You'll maybe not catch
an error of a thou or two, but it will show a turn of the handle or a
transposed number instantly. I realize that operators of CNC's don't do
that, but seasoned manual machinists did, almost without fail. It becomes
second nature.


Market economy. I can't fault the companies who want their products
made by less skilled people: gotta stay competitive. I'm sure you're
right that it has changed the trade, maybe degraded it. But at
bottom, the reason we have technology is so we don't have to have
skill.

Strangely, the trade, while having been degraded, is turning out the finest
work we've ever turned out. Of that, there is no doubt. But it comes with
a price. Are we better off? Probably we are. Still, to have the skills
necessary to do things the old (hard) way bring me, in some strange way,
lots of comfort.


Anyway in machining, even if the average skill level goes down,
probably there will always be those few wizards around who can do
anything.

And these are the people that will be in demand in good time. Probably
right after I'm dead. g

As a hobbyist I'm lucky: no bottom line to worry about. I can do
things the hard way and nobody can fire me for it. You should've
seen me doing the bolt circle on a steam engine's cylinder head ...
with toolmaker's buttons, just for the fun.

It's not only fun, it's very informative. Think of the skill you're
acquiring in the bargain. And the pride in having done a job well, and
with your hands, not electronics. Very cool, Pete.

Harold

In article , Harold and Susan Vordos says...

In place of a DRO, always check
each move with a 6" scale (or larger, if necessary). You'll maybe not catch
an error of a thou or two, but it will show a turn of the handle or a
transposed number instantly. I realize that operators of CNC's don't do
that, but seasoned manual machinists did, almost without fail. It becomes
second nature.

Harold you've never run NC machinery so you would not know, but
seasoned NC programmers do a very similar step when setting
up jobs. They "single block" each line of the program when running
the first few parts. This means each line executes only after
the continue button is pressed, and each operation is inspected
for the desired result.

You say to check before each cut - which is what happens when
in single block mode. The only difference is once things are
tuned up it's kinda hard to get in there while the program
is running, with a six inch scale. g

Where can DROs be used to good advantage? For a home machinist,
the cost of purchasing new feed screws can be a *good* deal
larger than putting a decent DRO on the machine. I know what
you are going to reply - that a lathe with worn our leadscrews
isn't a lathe at all, and you would never allow one in your
shop. But for the person who buys an otherwise-serviceable
lathe, and does not want to mortage his house to put all new
feedscrews on it, the DRO is a way to inexpensively recover
the missing accuracy.

Jim


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"jim rozen" wrote in message
...
In article , Harold and Susan Vordos says...

In place of a DRO, always check
each move with a 6" scale (or larger, if necessary). You'll maybe not
catch
an error of a thou or two, but it will show a turn of the handle or a
transposed number instantly. I realize that operators of CNC's don't do
that, but seasoned manual machinists did, almost without fail. It
becomes
second nature.

Harold you've never run NC machinery so you would not know, but
seasoned NC programmers do a very similar step when setting
up jobs. They "single block" each line of the program when running
the first few parts. This means each line executes only after
the continue button is pressed, and each operation is inspected
for the desired result.

You say to check before each cut - which is what happens when
in single block mode. The only difference is once things are
tuned up it's kinda hard to get in there while the program
is running, with a six inch scale. g

Thanks for the info, Jim. Yep, you're dead right---I have no clue about
any type of NC on machine tools. I can't help but think that the scale
process is a carryover from manual machining. Those of us that were properly
tutored learned that trick early on-------or we made a serious amount of
scrap. I was *lucky*, I managed to make the scrap in spite of the scale!
g

Where can DROs be used to good advantage? For a home machinist,
the cost of purchasing new feed screws can be a *good* deal
larger than putting a decent DRO on the machine. I know what
you are going to reply - that a lathe with worn our leadscrews
isn't a lathe at all, and you would never allow one in your
shop. But for the person who buys an otherwise-serviceable
lathe, and does not want to mortage his house to put all new
feedscrews on it, the DRO is a way to inexpensively recover
the missing accuracy.

Jim

All good points to consider, Jim, and I agree with you totally. I've been
somewhat spoiled by having screws that can be, for the most part, trusted.
My only experience with a bad screw was when I was in training and was
assigned to a large K&T horizontal that had a vertical head attachment. I
was shocked to find the screw was off more than .020" in a foot. You
likely know how I found out.

I had to replace the nut for the cross slide on my Graziano years ago when
it wore enough that the major diameter of the screw started dragging on the
minor diameter of the nut. The nut is split in halves, top and bottom, and
is spring loaded such that it keeps backlash out. Once it started dragging
improperly, the lathe wouldn't repeat. A new nut solved the problem.

Harold

In article , Harold and Susan Vordos says...

I had to replace the nut for the cross slide on my Graziano years ago when
it wore enough that the major diameter of the screw started dragging on the
minor diameter of the nut. The nut is split in halves, top and bottom, and
is spring loaded such that it keeps backlash out. Once it started dragging
improperly, the lathe wouldn't repeat. A new nut solved the problem.

Most used lathes I've bought over the years have acme threads on the
crossfeed screws that are worn so badly, they look like V-threads in
the center of their travel. I think this is the reasoning behind
the instructions most folks receive, at one time or another, to "sneak
up on it" when trying to hit a dimension. g

I suffered with this only so long on my 9" SB machine and then went
and purchased a brand new 'direct reading' dial set - the nut, screw,
and larger dial, all from south bend. At the time it wasn't outrageous.

Then when I went up to a bigger machine, I knew to ask right at the
start what it would take to fit a brand new leadscrew to the machine
before I finalized the deal. It also had a sharp-v special. I
got a good deal on that one as well, this was around the time when
SB was going crazy with their parts prices, the dealer had a NOS
one on hand, still taped to the original packing stick.

Aside from headstock bearings, I would say that the crossfeed screw
is the single biggest issue that will make a decent lathe into
a dog, or turn a disaster of a machine into a tolerably useable
tool.

Jim


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==================================================

jim rozen wrote:

I suffered with this only so long on my 9" SB machine and then went
and purchased a brand new 'direct reading' dial set - the nut, screw,
and larger dial, all from south bend. At the time it wasn't outrageous.

Am I right that those parts are no longer available at any price?
Didn't SB tank about five years ago?

--
Artful Bodger
http://www.artfulbodger.net

artfulbodger wrote in
:

jim rozen wrote:

I suffered with this only so long on my 9" SB machine and then went
and purchased a brand new 'direct reading' dial set - the nut, screw,
and larger dial, all from south bend. At the time it wasn't outrageous.

Am I right that those parts are no longer available at any price?

http://www.southbendlathe.com/parts.htm

Didn't SB tank about five years ago?


No. You can still buy a new lathe from them as far as I know.


--

Dan

D Murphy wrote:

Am I right that those parts are no longer available at any price?

http://www.southbendlathe.com/parts.htm

Didn't SB tank about five years ago?

No. You can still buy a new lathe from them as far as I know.

Well, son of a gun. I seemed to recall that they'd closed their
doors under financial distress a while back. Guess they're still
around, though. 'Course, I note that there are no actual parts
listed on parts.htm ... but I guess a phone call would answer the
questions.

--
Artful Bodger
http://www.artfulbodger.net

On Sun, 15 May 2005 20:43:51 GMT, artfulbodger
wrote:

jim rozen wrote:

I suffered with this only so long on my 9" SB machine and then went
and purchased a brand new 'direct reading' dial set - the nut, screw,
and larger dial, all from south bend. At the time it wasn't outrageous.

Am I right that those parts are no longer available at any price?
Didn't SB tank about five years ago?

SM tanked (standard modern)

In article ,
says...

On Sun, 15 May 2005 20:43:51 GMT, artfulbodger
wrote:

jim rozen wrote:

I suffered with this only so long on my 9" SB machine and then went
and purchased a brand new 'direct reading' dial set - the nut, screw,
and larger dial, all from south bend. At the time it wasn't outrageous.

Am I right that those parts are no longer available at any price?
Didn't SB tank about five years ago?

SM tanked (standard modern)

LeBlond took them (SB) over. At least for parts. At the time
I purchased all my feedscrews from them, I dealt directly with
SB, it was more than ten years ago. Now if I were going to do
this, there's an aftermarket outfit (Miller Machine?) that
folks here on rcm recommend for replacement crossfeed screws.

Jim


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c
"jim rozen" wrote in message
snip----

Aside from headstock bearings, I would say that the crossfeed screw
is the single biggest issue that will make a decent lathe into
a dog, or turn a disaster of a machine into a tolerably useable
tool.

Jim

That's a bit of a touchy subject with me at this point in time as well.
I'm detecting a .0002" out of round condition on turns of late. I realize
it's not much, but any at all is more than I care to have. I searched for
bearings and was shocked to find a new main bearing for the Graziano can be
had for a paltry sum of only $1,600. There's a second bearing farther back
on the spindle that would likely be wise to replace as well, but it's not
nearly as expensive. Only several hundred dollars. One hell of a shocker
when you consider I paid only $4600 for the machine back in '67. Speaks
volumes about the decline in the American dollar. Considering I now own a
precision grinder, I'll likely limp by with the old bearings, grinding
anything of importance. That's assuming I ever get the house finished and
actually start using the shop, that is. :-)

Harold

On Mon, 16 May 2005 00:48:22 -0700, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:

c
"jim rozen" wrote in message
snip----

Aside from headstock bearings, I would say that the crossfeed screw
is the single biggest issue that will make a decent lathe into
a dog, or turn a disaster of a machine into a tolerably useable
tool.

Jim

That's a bit of a touchy subject with me at this point in time as well.
I'm detecting a .0002" out of round condition on turns of late. I realize
it's not much, but any at all is more than I care to have. I searched for
bearings and was shocked to find a new main bearing for the Graziano can be
had for a paltry sum of only $1,600. There's a second bearing farther back
on the spindle that would likely be wise to replace as well, but it's not
nearly as expensive. Only several hundred dollars. One hell of a shocker
when you consider I paid only $4600 for the machine back in '67. Speaks
volumes about the decline in the American dollar. Considering I now own a
precision grinder, I'll likely limp by with the old bearings, grinding
anything of importance. That's assuming I ever get the house finished and
actually start using the shop, that is. :-)

Harold



If you have the bearing number, contact Alpine Bearing in Boston.
They have a website.

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

In article , Gunner says...

That's a bit of a touchy subject with me at this point in time as well.
I'm detecting a .0002" out of round condition on turns of late. I realize
it's not much, but any at all is more than I care to have. I searched for
bearings and was shocked to find a new main bearing for the Graziano can be
had for a paltry sum of only $1,600. There's a second bearing farther back
on the spindle that would likely be wise to replace as well, but it's not
nearly as expensive. Only several hundred dollars. One hell of a shocker
when you consider I paid only $4600 for the machine back in '67. Speaks
volumes about the decline in the American dollar. Considering I now own a
precision grinder, I'll likely limp by with the old bearings, grinding
anything of importance. That's assuming I ever get the house finished and
actually start using the shop, that is. :-)

If you have the bearing number, contact Alpine Bearing in Boston.
They have a website.

Indeed. Gunner's politics may be highly suspect g but he's dead
right on this one, bearings come at all different prices that range from
full retail to rock-bottom wholesale - and they are the same bearings.

I found that out when I purchased abec-7 bearings to re-do and M
head a few years ago. I went to new hampshire ball bearing, but
the folks who own the place I worked at night had an excellent
working relationship with them - and I was able to purchase through
them.

Jim

Jim


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On Mon, 16 May 2005 00:48:22 -0700, the inscrutable "Harold and Susan
Vordos" spake:

c
"jim rozen" wrote in message
snip----

Aside from headstock bearings, I would say that the crossfeed screw
is the single biggest issue that will make a decent lathe into
a dog, or turn a disaster of a machine into a tolerably useable
tool.

Jim

That's a bit of a touchy subject with me at this point in time as well.
I'm detecting a .0002" out of round condition on turns of late. I realize
it's not much, but any at all is more than I care to have. I searched for
bearings and was shocked to find a new main bearing for the Graziano can be
had for a paltry sum of only $1,600. There's a second bearing farther back

There simply HAS to be an alternative source. Tried SKF?


on the spindle that would likely be wise to replace as well, but it's not
nearly as expensive. Only several hundred dollars. One hell of a shocker
when you consider I paid only $4600 for the machine back in '67. Speaks
volumes about the decline in the American dollar. Considering I now own a
precision grinder, I'll likely limp by with the old bearings, grinding
anything of importance. That's assuming I ever get the house finished and
actually start using the shop, that is. :-)

Yeah, you have to move OUT of the shop before using it to any degree,
huh? LOL!


------
We're born hungry, wet, 'n naked, and it gets worse from there.
- http://diversify.com Website Application Programming -

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
snip-------
If you have the bearing number, contact Alpine Bearing in Boston.
They have a website.

GunnerThanks, Gunner. I've mentioned them in my response to Jim. I
had to chuckle at myself----when I researched my records I found I had
conveniently combined the value of the two bearings into one price, so it's
not nearly as bad as I was thinking. Still, it's a lot of money for two
bearings. They're a Gamet bearing-----precision high speed bearings with
hollow rollers. Each is rated @ 6,900 RPM.

Harold

"jim rozen" wrote in message
...
snip---
Indeed. Gunner's politics may be highly suspect g but he's dead
right on this one, bearings come at all different prices that range from
full retail to rock-bottom wholesale - and they are the same bearings.

Yep! I've danced to that tune before, too. Unfortunately, the bearings
for the Graziano are highly unusual, and foreign made. It appears they
have done an excellent job of controlling the market.

When I made an inquiry, I received this reply:

"Mr. Vordos,

If you can provide the Gamet numbers from your bearings we can quote, we are
the US representative for them".

According to the manual, the bearings are as follows:

110055 Cone X 110100 Cup (1 set)

130069 Cone X 130120H Cup (1 set)

In a different correspondence I received the following:

"The price of the bearings is as follows:

110055/110100 Bearing $468.33

130069X/130120H Bearing $1000.56

Delivery would be approximately 2 weeks from receipt of an order.

Thank you for your inquiry,

Jolene (Jo) Olds

Customer Service Manager"

I had clearly remembered the price incorrectly, but then that doesn't
surprise me considering this was over a year ago, and my memory appears to
be the second shortest thing I have these days. g

I'll see if I can find the source you and Gunner recommended. I appreciate
your input.


Harold






















































I found that out when I purchased abec-7 bearings to re-do and M
head a few years ago. I went to new hampshire ball bearing, but
the folks who own the place I worked at night had an excellent
working relationship with them - and I was able to purchase through
them.

Jim

Jim


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==================================================

s
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
snip-------
Yeah, you have to move OUT of the shop before using it to any degree,
huh? LOL!

Jealous, eh? g

Deep down, you wish you could run your lathe from your bed, just as I can.

I can't begin to imagine how nice it will be when I can run the machines
without worrying about living with the chips.

Harold

I think Rollie's Dad's method is rather ingenious. The primary purpose
is to remove the twist from the bed. It won't ensure the lathe is level
from end-to-end or side-to-side. The purpose of leveling the lathe
isn't to have it level, it's to remove the twist in the bed so that the
the orientation of the headstock/tailstock/carriage are the same as the
tailstock/carriage travel up and down the ways. The machining operation
could care less if one side/end of the lathe is higher than the other.

I've done it both ways and Rollie's Dad's method produces perfectly
adequate results. It will also detect whether the headstock is
pointing up/down relative to the bed. Much more difficult to fix,
though. And not guaranteed from the factory. Best of luck.

artfulbodger wrote:
I note that there are no actual parts
listed on parts.htm

The parts are sold by LeBlond

http://www.leblondusa.com/

Kevin Gallimore

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"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in
:

That's a bit of a touchy subject with me at this point in time as
well. I'm detecting a .0002" out of round condition on turns of late.
I realize it's not much, but any at all is more than I care to have.
I searched for bearings and was shocked to find a new main bearing
for the Graziano can be had for a paltry sum of only $1,600. There's
a second bearing farther back on the spindle that would likely be wise
to replace as well, but it's not nearly as expensive. Only several
hundred dollars. One hell of a shocker when you consider I paid
only $4600 for the machine back in '67. Speaks volumes about the
decline in the American dollar. Considering I now own a precision
grinder, I'll likely limp by with the old bearings, grinding anything
of importance. That's assuming I ever get the house finished and
actually start using the shop, that is. :-)

You can buy the bearings for the Graziano at most any bearing house. Try
Berry Bearing. Hmm looks like they got bought out by Motion Industries. We
use them all the time.

https://www.motionmro.com/motion3/jsp/mi/index.jsp


--

Dan

"D Murphy" wrote in message
...
snip-----

You can buy the bearings for the Graziano at most any bearing house. Try
Berry Bearing. Hmm looks like they got bought out by Motion Industries. We
use them all the time.

https://www.motionmro.com/motion3/jsp/mi/index.jsp


--

Dan


I'm not convinced you can, not from my experience, anyway. I checked the
link you provided but couldn't find anything listed as being made by Gamet,
nor any listing for Graziano.

I have no doubt you can buy bearings for Graziano lathes for most
applications, but headstock bearings are not exactly a common item. Have
you purchased any of those from your sources? Everything I've learned
always leads back to the original source of the bearings, which are rather
unusual because of their hollow roller design and high speed capabilities.

Harold

John wrote:

I think Rollie's Dad's method is rather ingenious. The primary purpose
is to remove the twist from the bed. It won't ensure the lathe is level
from end-to-end or side-to-side.

Yeah, that's the impression I had. I used the method to straighten
out the lathe and it worked well; but now I've gone and leveled
everything anyway. Or, as close as I can get to level, with my
(inadequate, temporary) bench. I wasn't going to bother, but then
decided to scrape in the new cross slide. This of course leads to
scraping in the compound rest and the saddle, and oh boy, I'm off and
running. Fortunately, I can't scrape the bed, can't even really
check if it needs it, until the lathe is on a better mounting. But
it's level enough to scrape and fit the other parts well, so here I
go.

Blue hands, sore shoulders, God help me.

--
Artful Bodger
http://www.artfulbodger.net

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in
:


"D Murphy" wrote in message
...
snip-----

You can buy the bearings for the Graziano at most any bearing house.
Try Berry Bearing. Hmm looks like they got bought out by Motion
Industries. We use them all the time.

https://www.motionmro.com/motion3/jsp/mi/index.jsp


--

Dan


I'm not convinced you can, not from my experience, anyway. I
checked the link you provided but couldn't find anything listed as
being made by Gamet, nor any listing for Graziano.

I have no doubt you can buy bearings for Graziano lathes for most
applications, but headstock bearings are not exactly a common item.
Have you purchased any of those from your sources? Everything I've
learned always leads back to the original source of the bearings,
which are rather unusual because of their hollow roller design and
high speed capabilities.


I don't know if Berry carries Gamet for sure, but yes we have bought
headstock bearings (class 9 matched angular contact) from them. But you
can get the bearings you need from any Gamet distributor. Harrison lathes
and others also use the same Gamet taper roller bearings. In our parts
dept. we have cross reference books from various bearing manufacturers.
If there is an equivelant bearing any bearing distributor will be able to
tell you, providing you get someone on the phone who wants to help. Gamet
kind of specializes in engine lathe headstock bearings though, so an
equivelant bearing from another manufacturer may not be available. But
that doesn't mean that you have to buy the Gamets' from Graziano. Unlike
our service guys and our customers you have time on your side. The lathe
is not down and you aren't losing money. I would shop around for the best
deal. Parts is parts.


--

Dan

"D Murphy" wrote in message
...
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in
:


"D Murphy" wrote in message
...
snip-----

You can buy the bearings for the Graziano at most any bearing house.
Try Berry Bearing. Hmm looks like they got bought out by Motion
Industries. We use them all the time.

https://www.motionmro.com/motion3/jsp/mi/index.jsp


--

Dan


I'm not convinced you can, not from my experience, anyway. I
checked the link you provided but couldn't find anything listed as
being made by Gamet, nor any listing for Graziano.

I have no doubt you can buy bearings for Graziano lathes for most
applications, but headstock bearings are not exactly a common item.
Have you purchased any of those from your sources? Everything I've
learned always leads back to the original source of the bearings,
which are rather unusual because of their hollow roller design and
high speed capabilities.


I don't know if Berry carries Gamet for sure, but yes we have bought
headstock bearings (class 9 matched angular contact) from them. But you
can get the bearings you need from any Gamet distributor. Harrison lathes
and others also use the same Gamet taper roller bearings. In our parts
dept. we have cross reference books from various bearing manufacturers.
If there is an equivelant bearing any bearing distributor will be able to
tell you, providing you get someone on the phone who wants to help. Gamet
kind of specializes in engine lathe headstock bearings though, so an
equivelant bearing from another manufacturer may not be available. But
that doesn't mean that you have to buy the Gamets' from Graziano. Unlike
our service guys and our customers you have time on your side. The lathe
is not down and you aren't losing money. I would shop around for the best
deal. Parts is parts.


--

Dan


Thanks, Dan. Yep, I'm not in a hurry. In fact, if I can't get a better
deal, they won't get changed out at all. The machine runs fine, without
noise, it's just not as precise as it once was. I'll keep snooping in
the hopes I come up with a good deal.

Harold

On Mon, 16 May 2005 12:21:19 -0700, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"jim rozen" wrote in message
...
snip---
Indeed. Gunner's politics may be highly suspect g but he's dead
right on this one, bearings come at all different prices that range from
full retail to rock-bottom wholesale - and they are the same bearings.

Yep! I've danced to that tune before, too. Unfortunately, the bearings
for the Graziano are highly unusual, and foreign made. It appears they
have done an excellent job of controlling the market.

When I made an inquiry, I received this reply:

"Mr. Vordos,

If you can provide the Gamet numbers from your bearings we can quote, we are
the US representative for them".

According to the manual, the bearings are as follows:

110055 Cone X 110100 Cup (1 set)

130069 Cone X 130120H Cup (1 set)

In a different correspondence I received the following:

"The price of the bearings is as follows:

110055/110100 Bearing $468.33

130069X/130120H Bearing $1000.56

Delivery would be approximately 2 weeks from receipt of an order.

Thank you for your inquiry,

Jolene (Jo) Olds

Customer Service Manager"

I had clearly remembered the price incorrectly, but then that doesn't
surprise me considering this was over a year ago, and my memory appears to
be the second shortest thing I have these days. g

I'll see if I can find the source you and Gunner recommended. I appreciate
your input.


Harold

http://www.alpinebearing.com

Tel: (800) 225-4334 (617) 254-1420

Ask for JC.

Tell him you are associated with Rapid Turn.

Give him the numbers, and ask the price.

You may be very surprised.

Gunner

























































I found that out when I purchased abec-7 bearings to re-do and M
head a few years ago. I went to new hampshire ball bearing, but
the folks who own the place I worked at night had an excellent
working relationship with them - and I was able to purchase through
them.

Jim

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
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==================================================




"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

On Mon, 16 May 2005 19:51:06 -0700, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"D Murphy" wrote in message
.. .
snip-----

You can buy the bearings for the Graziano at most any bearing house. Try
Berry Bearing. Hmm looks like they got bought out by Motion Industries. We
use them all the time.

https://www.motionmro.com/motion3/jsp/mi/index.jsp


--

Dan


I'm not convinced you can, not from my experience, anyway. I checked the
link you provided but couldn't find anything listed as being made by Gamet,
nor any listing for Graziano.

I have no doubt you can buy bearings for Graziano lathes for most
applications, but headstock bearings are not exactly a common item. Have
you purchased any of those from your sources? Everything I've learned
always leads back to the original source of the bearings, which are rather
unusual because of their hollow roller design and high speed capabilities.

Harold

I install spindle bearings as part of my living. Hardinge, etc.
Spindle bearings, while pricey are readily available for most
machines. It may take a day or two to have something unusual ordered
in, but none Ive found so far were unique. Hardinge spindle bearings
for example are made by SKF, NSK, etc etc and are common.

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

On Mon, 16 May 2005 21:45:26 -0700, the inscrutable "Harold and Susan
Vordos" spake:

Thanks, Dan. Yep, I'm not in a hurry. In fact, if I can't get a better
deal, they won't get changed out at all. The machine runs fine, without
noise, it's just not as precise as it once was. I'll keep snooping in
the hopes I come up with a good deal.

Yeah, with that wild and hairy two -tenths- of slop, your mower blade
washer won't get to Mars in one piece, Harold.

LJ--who can barely see 0.0002" on his dial caliper.


------
We're born hungry, wet, 'n naked, and it gets worse from there.
- http://diversify.com Website Application Programming -

In article , Larry Jaques says...

Yeah, with that wild and hairy two -tenths- of slop, your mower blade
washer won't get to Mars in one piece, Harold.

:^)

Jim


--
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==================================================

"Gunner" wrote in message
news snip-------

I'll see if I can find the source you and Gunner recommended. I
appreciate
your input.


Harold

http://www.alpinebearing.com

Tel: (800) 225-4334 (617) 254-1420

Ask for JC.

Tell him you are associated with Rapid Turn.

Give him the numbers, and ask the price.

You may be very surprised.

Gunner

Thanks, Gunner. With that, I'll inquire as soon as possible. I'll let you
know how it turns out.

Harold

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
snip---

I install spindle bearings as part of my living. Hardinge, etc.
Spindle bearings, while pricey are readily available for most
machines. It may take a day or two to have something unusual ordered
in, but none Ive found so far were unique. Hardinge spindle bearings
for example are made by SKF, NSK, etc etc and are common.

Gunner


Apparently these are. Unique, that is. . Gamet is the only manufacturer,
at least from everything I've discovered. I talked to JC, who will inquire
of them as quickly as possible. He said he has purchased similar
bearings previously. From our conversation, I expect I won't hear
anything positive regards the cost. That's what happens when there's no
competition. Gamet is sure as hell going to hate life when the Chinese
start duplicating their bearings! g


Harold