I've recently completed a desk in quartersawn white oak. I've
finished final sanding to 180 grit and will fume it with ammonia this
week (I'll assemble the desk after linseed oil application and before
shellac; see below). I've done several tests and am confident in the
method.

I've also done some test pieces all the way through the process, and
here's what I prefer so far, though I have a few questions and would
like to see if anyone has another method of finishing fumed oak that
they think I should try before going on with the final stages of the
desk:

After fuming (24 hours; 28-31% ammonium hydroxide; 70 degrees), I will
apply 3 coats of boiled linseed oil (drying between) and then a few
topcoats of natural shellac, using 0000 steel wool between shellac
coats. I've tried this and I like the look. It's quite rich, deep
golden brown, and difficult to screw up too.

Is there any benefit to waxing over shellac (I know not to wax before
shellac and my test of waxing instead of shellac wasn't as rich)? Do
you think that a filler or sealer is necessary? If so, precisely what
product and when? Is there any other method I should try or anything
I'm not thinking of?

Thanks for any comments.

On 30 Sep 2003 20:41:11 -0700, (Bob) wrote:

After fuming (24 hours; 28-31% ammonium hydroxide; 70 degrees), I will
apply 3 coats of boiled linseed oil (drying between) and then a few
topcoats of natural shellac, using 0000 steel wool between shellac
coats.

I use something very similar to this. I find it's attractive and a
less formal finish than full-blown french polishing. Much of my
current work is "1900 American Bungalow" in style

I don't use linseed, but a commercial mix (LIberon's) based on tung
instead. I find that linseed is colour unstable over time and prone
to extreme yellowing in a year or so. I also find the drying to be
quicker and more predictable with a tung base rather than linseed,
particularly in high humidity.

I do use linseed on some pieces, but only raw linseed as a base for my
own true boiled recipes, cooking it with either lead or manganese
oxides, according to Bill Mendes' notes on the subject 18thC
Pennsylvania gunstocking.

I don't rub the shellac out, as I do for french polishing. If I did,
I've switched to plastic mesh abrasives (3M or Webrax) to avoid
rust-spot or iron stain problems from fragments of steel wool left
behind.

The oak I use is English (Q. robur) rather than American white (Q.
alba). It's not so pale and the surface may be rather more porous.
If your finishing is plain shellac over oil, these pores will still be
visible in the finished surface. This doesn't bother me, but you may
wish to use a pore filler before the oil.


Is there any benefit to waxing over shellac

I've done this, if I think the piece is going to be wax polished in
use. But it's also less easy to re-finish a damaged shellac finish if
it's waxy, so there are issues either way. In general I don't.


--
Smert' spamionam

Sounds fine if you're not going to use the wood itself as a writing surface.
If you are, fill the oak.

Oh yes, given shellac's vulnerability to bases, you might want to do a
vinegar wipe after fuming to make sure things are neutralized.

"Bob" wrote in message
om...
I've recently completed a desk in quartersawn white oak. I've
finished final sanding to 180 grit and will fume it with ammonia this
week (I'll assemble the desk after linseed oil application and before
shellac; see below). I've done several tests and am confident in the
method.

Andy Dingley wrote in message . ..
I don't use linseed, but a commercial mix (LIberon's) based on tung
instead. I find that linseed is colour unstable over time and prone
to extreme yellowing in a year or so.

Thanks for all of the advice -- the comment about linseed yellowing
concerns me a great deal...have others also had this problem? If so,
is there a method to minimize the discoloration? Also, when you
experienced the yellowing, was it over fumed white oak or non-fumed
wood?

"George" wrote in message ...
Sounds fine if you're not going to use the wood itself as a writing surface.
If you are, fill the oak.

At what stage, and do you recommend a specific product (brand, etc.) for doing so?


Oh yes, given shellac's vulnerability to bases, you might want to do a
vinegar wipe after fuming to make sure things are neutralized.

Would this alter the color? I can experiment, but I thought you might know.

Bob wrote:
[tamp tamp]


Is there any benefit to waxing over shellac (I know not to wax before
shellac and my test of waxing instead of shellac wasn't as rich)? Do
you think that a filler or sealer is necessary? If so, precisely what
product and when? Is there any other method I should try or anything
I'm not thinking of?

You've already gotten some good advice. If your final polish-out of the
shellac is with #0000 steel wool (or equivalent), then there's no need to
fill the pores. I read some concern over a porous surface being
problematic if there is to be writing occuring on the desk (well, paper on
top of the desk, naturally). If someone's going to use your desk for a
writing surface, they should use a blotter or something similar. Only the
most boorish, retrograde, slacking dolt uses real wood as a direct writing
surface. Well, that kind of person and/or wonderful kids, but hey, what
they do with their french polished curly maple topped desk is their own
business. DAMHIKT.

This is why drafting tables are formica .

Waxing after shellac yields just a bit more sheen. I prefer the feel of
shellac over wax, so I wouldn't bother. Plus, the wax is susceptible to
water damage, while the shellac (unless the water is very hot - 150F or
more) is not.

As for oiling, for years and years I've been using walnut oil. The color
is light and stable, though the oil (when dried) is rather soft. No
problem. I use the oil merely for the "wet paper bag" effect. It's that
depth we're after. So I thin it (3:1) with turpentine, wipe it on, and
then immediately wipe off as much as I can.

Lastly, rubbing shellac with steel wool in between coats is unecessary
after the first coat. The first coat will generally raise the grain and
you'll want to knock back the nibs. I prefer 320 grit sandpaper on a
rubber sanding block, lubed with turpentine. It cuts faster and leaves a
more even surface. Steel wool will tend to follow already-established
imperfections in the finish. Then I'll complete the finishing schedule
using whatever method of applying the shellac is best suited (a whole
nother lecture).

Best regards,
O'Deen

--
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