Bob wrote:
[tamp tamp]


Is there any benefit to waxing over shellac (I know not to wax before
shellac and my test of waxing instead of shellac wasn't as rich)? Do
you think that a filler or sealer is necessary? If so, precisely what
product and when? Is there any other method I should try or anything
I'm not thinking of?

You've already gotten some good advice. If your final polish-out of the
shellac is with #0000 steel wool (or equivalent), then there's no need to
fill the pores. I read some concern over a porous surface being
problematic if there is to be writing occuring on the desk (well, paper on
top of the desk, naturally). If someone's going to use your desk for a
writing surface, they should use a blotter or something similar. Only the
most boorish, retrograde, slacking dolt uses real wood as a direct writing
surface. Well, that kind of person and/or wonderful kids, but hey, what
they do with their french polished curly maple topped desk is their own
business. DAMHIKT.

This is why drafting tables are formica .

Waxing after shellac yields just a bit more sheen. I prefer the feel of
shellac over wax, so I wouldn't bother. Plus, the wax is susceptible to
water damage, while the shellac (unless the water is very hot - 150F or
more) is not.

As for oiling, for years and years I've been using walnut oil. The color
is light and stable, though the oil (when dried) is rather soft. No
problem. I use the oil merely for the "wet paper bag" effect. It's that
depth we're after. So I thin it (3:1) with turpentine, wipe it on, and
then immediately wipe off as much as I can.

Lastly, rubbing shellac with steel wool in between coats is unecessary
after the first coat. The first coat will generally raise the grain and
you'll want to knock back the nibs. I prefer 320 grit sandpaper on a
rubber sanding block, lubed with turpentine. It cuts faster and leaves a
more even surface. Steel wool will tend to follow already-established
imperfections in the finish. Then I'll complete the finishing schedule
using whatever method of applying the shellac is best suited (a whole
nother lecture).

Best regards,
O'Deen

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