Karl Townsend wrote:

The coolant pump on my Mazak M4 has slowed down to the point I can pee that
fast.

I found a replacement at McMaster Carr:
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=286

Cast Iron Coolant Pumps for Foreign Machines - above tank. part number
99875K74 for $400.

OUCH! Anybody know of a less expensive replacement for a coolant pump? FWIW,
the M4 has a lot of line to go through to get to the two turrets.

Or, is it worth taking the pump apart to see if its just gunked up? I put a
water hose on end of the line and backflushed it today - no problems found.
The pump is developing very little pressure.

Karl



Take your air nozzle and blow back through the coolant line. You might
have something stuck in the line, especially if you have been cutting
plastic.


John

The coolant pump on my Mazak M4 has slowed down to the point I can pee that
fast.

I found a replacement at McMaster Carr:
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=286

Cast Iron Coolant Pumps for Foreign Machines - above tank. part number
99875K74 for $400.

OUCH! Anybody know of a less expensive replacement for a coolant pump? FWIW,
the M4 has a lot of line to go through to get to the two turrets.

Or, is it worth taking the pump apart to see if its just gunked up? I put a
water hose on end of the line and backflushed it today - no problems found.
The pump is developing very little pressure.

Karl

I'd just tear it down and clean it. Our horizontal band saw uses a cheap
birdbath style pump, add in really clueless users and it gets a full
tear down about every 3 months.

Karl Townsend wrote:
The coolant pump on my Mazak M4 has slowed down to the point I can pee that
fast.

I found a replacement at McMaster Carr:
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=286

Cast Iron Coolant Pumps for Foreign Machines - above tank. part number
99875K74 for $400.

OUCH! Anybody know of a less expensive replacement for a coolant pump? FWIW,
the M4 has a lot of line to go through to get to the two turrets.

Or, is it worth taking the pump apart to see if its just gunked up? I put a
water hose on end of the line and backflushed it today - no problems found.
The pump is developing very little pressure.

Karl

Not much can go wrong w/ centrifugals, as long as the motor itself is not
bad.
Mebbe amprobe the motor.
But, if the impeller itself is gunked up, then that would f'sure reduce your
pressure--basically just a wheel, then, spinning in coolant!
If back-blowing the line don't help, start sleuthing: disconnect hoses,
perhaps right at the pump outlet, see what happens w/ the flow.
I got nice pumps (for Hurcos) at Traverse Tool for $180. Similar to what's
on my fadal.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"john" wrote in message
...


Karl Townsend wrote:

The coolant pump on my Mazak M4 has slowed down to the point I can pee
that
fast.

I found a replacement at McMaster Carr:
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=286

Cast Iron Coolant Pumps for Foreign Machines - above tank. part number
99875K74 for $400.

OUCH! Anybody know of a less expensive replacement for a coolant pump?
FWIW,
the M4 has a lot of line to go through to get to the two turrets.

Or, is it worth taking the pump apart to see if its just gunked up? I put
a
water hose on end of the line and backflushed it today - no problems
found.
The pump is developing very little pressure.

Karl



Take your air nozzle and blow back through the coolant line. You might
have something stuck in the line, especially if you have been cutting
plastic.


John

"Karl Townsend" remove .NOT to reply wrote
in message link.net...

The coolant pump on my Mazak M4 has slowed down to the point I can
pee that fast.

Or, is it worth taking the pump apart to see if its just gunked up?
I put a water hose on end of the line and backflushed it today - no
problems found. The pump is developing very little pressure.


Most coolant pumps are of the in-tank style: the motor is suspended above
the coolant tank, while the pump housing, shaft, and impeller are submerged
in the coolant. These are fairly simple pump designs with not much that can
go wrong with them.

If the output volume on your pump has diminished, there are several likely
reasons:

1. The pump inlet is obstructed with chips or gunk.
2. The pump outlet is obstructed with chips or gunk.
3. The coolant distribution plumbing is obstructed with chips or gunk.
4. The impeller is fouled with chips or gunk.
5. The shaft bearings/bushings are gummed, corroded, or shot.
6. The motor bearings/bushings are gummed, corroded, or shot.
7. The motor is failing.

I would certainly try to diagnose and correct the problem and/or rebuild the
pump before replacing it. Most of the problems listed above are easy to fix;
only reason #7 would probably warrant replacing the whole unit.

- Michael

"Karl Townsend" remove .NOT to reply
wrote in link.net:

Karl,
The impeller may be worn. This is usually the cause on our machines that
have a centrifugal pump. Chips eat it up over time. You can purchase just
the impeller and replace it.






--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

http://www.machines-cnc.net:81/

"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote:

Not much can go wrong w/ centrifugals, as long as the motor itself is not
bad.
Mebbe amprobe the motor.
But, if the impeller itself is gunked up, then that would f'sure reduce your
pressure--basically just a wheel, then, spinning in coolant!
If back-blowing the line don't help, start sleuthing: disconnect hoses,
perhaps right at the pump outlet, see what happens w/ the flow.
I got nice pumps (for Hurcos) at Traverse Tool for $180. Similar to what's
on my fadal.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll



I just put a pump on a mazak. Stole it off an old okuma LC 10 that I
scrapped a while ago. They run all nine wires back into the control
cabinet and do the 240/ 480 switching in the cabinet.


John

"Karl Townsend" remove .NOT to reply wrote
in message link.net...

Probly just clogged someplace is all.

Clean any screens, valves, etc. and take the line loose from the pump and
see if you get good flow at the pump outlet.

Go from there.

--

SVL

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...2854 742&rd=1

On Sun, 08 May 2005 01:31:23 GMT, "DeepDiver" wrote:

Most coolant pumps are of the in-tank style: the motor is suspended =
above=20
the coolant tank, while the pump housing, shaft, and impeller are =
submerged=20
in the coolant. These are fairly simple pump designs with not much that =
can=20
go wrong with them.

At one point we had the separate coolant systems on our grinders =
replaced
with a single system, placed outside the shop. From the grinders the =
coolant
would run into a single filtering tank inside the shop. When the level =
rose
over a certain point, a pump would start, and empty the tank back into =
the
outside system.

All in all a simple and foolproof system - except the return pump =
couldn't
keep up when all the grinders were running at the same time.

The Boss and the electrician was trying to decide whether to replace =
the
pump with a bigger one or add an extra, when the local shop Know-It-All
(yours truly) showed up, and suggested they reversed the rotation of the
pump.

For the next few minutes I basked in the faint red glow from their =
faces.
while the electrician switched the wires.g=20
=20

=20
--=20

-JN-

Which might require looking at the impeller of a good pump, to be able to
tell the diff..
Ahm wunnerin what worn impeller would look like!
Could also be loose on the shaft, but would proly make a noise, as well.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Anthony" wrote in message
...
"Karl Townsend" remove .NOT to reply
wrote in link.net:

Karl,
The impeller may be worn. This is usually the cause on our machines that
have a centrifugal pump. Chips eat it up over time. You can purchase just
the impeller and replace it.






--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

http://www.machines-cnc.net:81/

"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in
:

Which might require looking at the impeller of a good pump, to be able
to tell the diff..
Ahm wunnerin what worn impeller would look like!
Could also be loose on the shaft, but would proly make a noise, as
well. ----------------------------


About 1/2 - 1/3 the dia of the original, with rounded edges and worn off
blades. Many, many coolant pumps use _plastic_ impellers. But even steel
impellers will wear over time if it pumps many chips and fines.

I like Brinkmann pumps, all cast iron, with a cast, screw impeller,
generous opening, and will pump chips without a problem. We have filters
that will take out the chips and fines before it reaches the actual
machine passages.


--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

http://www.machines-cnc.net:81/

Sounds like there is a case for cleaning coolant tanks before the sludge
builds up to the 1/2 mark!
Say it ain't so!
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Anthony" wrote in message
...
"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in
:

Which might require looking at the impeller of a good pump, to be able
to tell the diff..
Ahm wunnerin what worn impeller would look like!
Could also be loose on the shaft, but would proly make a noise, as
well. ----------------------------


About 1/2 - 1/3 the dia of the original, with rounded edges and worn off
blades. Many, many coolant pumps use _plastic_ impellers. But even steel
impellers will wear over time if it pumps many chips and fines.

I like Brinkmann pumps, all cast iron, with a cast, screw impeller,
generous opening, and will pump chips without a problem. We have filters
that will take out the chips and fines before it reaches the actual
machine passages.


--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

http://www.machines-cnc.net:81/

"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in
:

Sounds like there is a case for cleaning coolant tanks before the
sludge builds up to the 1/2 mark!
Say it ain't so!

Tanks are pulled and pumped monthly. They are taken outside and pressure
washed every 90 days.
The problems: a) We machine aluminum, for which this side of a disposable
roll media filter placed before coolant can return to the machine there is
_no_ way of keeping it out of the coolant tank itself. b) We run 24/7, and
the pump runs 24/7. Valves determine where the coolant goes, the pump runs
all the time. (Reason: at our cycle times, by the time a pump spins up to a
speed fast enough to pump some coolant, the cycle is over with)



--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

http://www.machines-cnc.net:81/

"Karl Townsend" remove .NOT to reply wrote in message
link.net...
The coolant pump on my Mazak M4 has slowed down to the point I can pee that fast.

I found a replacement at McMaster Carr:
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=286

Cast Iron Coolant Pumps for Foreign Machines - above tank. part number 99875K74 for $400.


Anybody tried a dishwasher pump in a shop, seem to be reliable otherwise.

http://tinyurl.com/9vkrp

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ac...px%3fcat%3d154

John

John Scheldroup wrote:

"Karl Townsend" remove .NOT to reply wrote in message
link.net...

The coolant pump on my Mazak M4 has slowed down to the point I can pee that fast.

I found a replacement at McMaster Carr:
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=286

Cast Iron Coolant Pumps for Foreign Machines - above tank. part number 99875K74 for $400.



Anybody tried a dishwasher pump in a shop, seem to be reliable otherwise.

http://tinyurl.com/9vkrp

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ac...px%3fcat%3d154

John



The oils would probably make short work of the plastic in those pumps.

Proctologically Violated©® wrote:

Which might require looking at the impeller of a good pump, to be able to
tell the diff..
Ahm wunnerin what worn impeller would look like!
Could also be loose on the shaft, but would proly make a noise, as well.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Anthony" wrote in message
...

"Karl Townsend" remove .NOT to reply
wrote in link.net:

Karl,
The impeller may be worn. This is usually the cause on our machines that
have a centrifugal pump. Chips eat it up over time. You can purchase just
the impeller and replace it.






--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

http://www.machines-cnc.net:81/




If the pump went bad all of a sudden it's most likely that the impeller
is good.( unless it spun off the shaft or you changed your coolant to
sulfuric acid))


John

"john" wrote in message ...


John Scheldroup wrote:

"Karl Townsend" remove .NOT to reply wrote in message
link.net...

The coolant pump on my Mazak M4 has slowed down to the point I can pee that fast.

I found a replacement at McMaster Carr:
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=286

Cast Iron Coolant Pumps for Foreign Machines - above tank. part number 99875K74 for $400.



Anybody tried a dishwasher pump in a shop, seem to be reliable otherwise.

http://tinyurl.com/9vkrp

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ac...px%3fcat%3d154

John



The oils would probably make short work of the plastic in those pumps.


To All:

On a scale of 1-4 with "1" the most corrosive and
"4" least corrosive, rate the following ?

Synthetic fluids
Water-soluble oils
Semi-synthetic fluids
Cascade

"John Scheldroup" wrote in message
...

To All:

On a scale of 1-4 with "1" the most corrosive and
"4" least corrosive, rate the following ?

Synthetic fluids
Water-soluble oils
Semi-synthetic fluids
Cascade


This is a false comparison. Automatic dishwasher detergent, like Cascade,
contains Sodium Hypochlorite Sodium Silicate which is corrosive to aluminum
and can even etch glass, but AFAIK, has little effect on most common
plastics. On the other hand, there are plenty of solvents that do nothing to
metals, yet will quickly dissolve many plastics.

Try this: mix up a concentrated solution of Cascade and water and soak a
piece of PVC pipe in it. Now try soaking that same PVC in a bath of
methylene chloride. Next, try the same experiment with a piece of aluminum.

- Michael

"DeepDiver" wrote in message ...
"John Scheldroup" wrote in message ...

To All:

On a scale of 1-4 with "1" the most corrosive and
"4" least corrosive, rate the following ?

Synthetic fluids
Water-soluble oils
Semi-synthetic fluids
Cascade


This is a false comparison. Automatic dishwasher detergent, like Cascade, contains Sodium Hypochlorite Sodium Silicate which is
corrosive to aluminum and can even etch glass, but AFAIK, has little effect on most common plastics. On the other hand, there are
plenty of solvents that do nothing to metals, yet will quickly dissolve many plastics.

Try this: mix up a concentrated solution of Cascade and water and soak a piece of PVC pipe in it. Now try soaking that same PVC in
a bath of methylene chloride. Next, try the same experiment with a piece of aluminum.

- Michael

Oh come on say it you got something against our American made dishwasher
pumps dontcha ?

Well, well, well ever visited a Midwestern farm ? You'll find some of the
friendliest most inventive people anywhere not to mention they got all sorts of
Mr. Wizard ways for a dishwasher pump so come on, come on when the cows
stop flushing the barn starts pumping

Ok ok nuffs nuff, your'e giving me a headache I gotta find my straw hat and
go feed the cows

John