Hello,

A friend of mine has broke a stud that holds the blade to his old
chainsaw. He has asked around and the part is nolonger available, it's
basically a threaded double ended stud with a flange/flat part way along.

Anyhow, making the part is not the problem, will prrobably be out of
some C12L14 or 4140 I have laying around.

The question is what can I do to it so it doesn't rust in the normal
environment of a chainsaw? What do they usually do to fasteners to
protect it from the environment? That black finish that isn't paint etc?

Thanks, Jeff

"Jeff Williams" wrote in message
...
Hello,

A friend of mine has broke a stud that holds the blade to his old
chainsaw. He has asked around and the part is nolonger available, it's
basically a threaded double ended stud with a flange/flat part way along.

Anyhow, making the part is not the problem, will prrobably be out of
some C12L14 or 4140 I have laying around.

The question is what can I do to it so it doesn't rust in the normal
environment of a chainsaw? What do they usually do to fasteners to
protect it from the environment? That black finish that isn't paint etc?

Thanks, Jeff

Why don't you just make it out of 316 SS, then it won't rust. If the saw is
like mine though, it usually is pretty welled oiled from the bar. So I would
make it out of 4140.

Richard W.

On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 20:44:49 -0400, Jeff Williams
wrote:

Hello,

A friend of mine has broke a stud that holds the blade to his old
chainsaw. He has asked around and the part is nolonger available, it's
basically a threaded double ended stud with a flange/flat part way along.

Anyhow, making the part is not the problem, will prrobably be out of
some C12L14 or 4140 I have laying around.

The question is what can I do to it so it doesn't rust in the normal
environment of a chainsaw? What do they usually do to fasteners to
protect it from the environment? That black finish that isn't paint etc?

Thanks, Jeff

Bar oil splashed everywhere tends to keep the metalwork protected.

Gunner

Rule #35
"That which does not kill you,
has made a huge tactical error"

Hello,

A friend of mine has broke a stud that holds the blade to his old
chainsaw. He has asked around and the part is nolonger available, it's
basically a threaded double ended stud with a flange/flat part way along.

Anyhow, making the part is not the problem, will prrobably be out of
some C12L14 or 4140 I have laying around.

The question is what can I do to it so it doesn't rust in the normal
environment of a chainsaw? What do they usually do to fasteners to
protect it from the environment? That black finish that isn't paint etc?

Thanks, Jeff
Wouldn't worry about rust... The original didn't rust away - it was
probably overtightened and twisted off. Everyone seems to think ya
gotta jump up and down on the bar tightening bolts/nuts...sigh
Ken.

On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 20:44:49 -0400, Jeff Williams wrote:

The question is what can I do to it so it doesn't rust in the normal
environment of a chainsaw? What do they usually do to fasteners to
protect it from the environment? That black finish that isn't paint etc?

Well, the normal environment in _my_ chainsaws is oily wood up against all
surfaces. But, I think the finish you're looking for is "parkerizing",
a black phosphate (?) process. Google for "home parkerizing" might get you
what you want. Or, just make the part out of stainless?

Jeff Williams writes:

The question is what can I do to it so it doesn't rust in the normal
environment of a chainsaw?

First, see if the normal oiling doesn't keep it from rusting.

If it starts to rust, hit it with some Loctite Extend (spray can). This
converts the rust to a resistant finish, and coats it with a polymer as
well, simply by spraying it on. Not economical for a big area, but for a
little part, it's just the thing.

First, can you find a stud from a good auto parts or hardware store that
would work? I question if the flanged portion is necessary, just Locktite
the stud in the hole.
Second, it ain't gonna rust, trust me!
Greg



"Jeff Williams" wrote in message
...
Hello,

A friend of mine has broke a stud that holds the blade to his old
chainsaw. He has asked around and the part is nolonger available, it's
basically a threaded double ended stud with a flange/flat part way along.

Anyhow, making the part is not the problem, will prrobably be out of
some C12L14 or 4140 I have laying around.

The question is what can I do to it so it doesn't rust in the normal
environment of a chainsaw? What do they usually do to fasteners to
protect it from the environment? That black finish that isn't paint etc?

Thanks, Jeff

"Jeff Williams" wrote in message
...
Hello,

A friend of mine has broke a stud that holds the blade to his old
chainsaw. He has asked around and the part is nolonger available, it's
basically a threaded double ended stud with a flange/flat part way along.

Anyhow, making the part is not the problem, will prrobably be out of
some C12L14 or 4140 I have laying around.

The question is what can I do to it so it doesn't rust in the normal
environment of a chainsaw? What do they usually do to fasteners to
protect it from the environment? That black finish that isn't paint etc?

Thanks, Jeff

I wouldn't worry too much about rust, but making the stud from 12L14 is
likely a mistake. It's not all that great for tensile strength, and you
can bet your butt the broken one was heat treated. One made from leaded
steel, which is not heat treatable, is likely to fail quickly. Go with
the 4140, even if it's in the annealed condition. Even better would be if
its pre-heat treated. It won't machine as nicely, but your effort won't be
wasted.

Harold

Hello,

Thanks all for the answers. Since I don't use a chainsaw much I wasn't
sure how oily the area is. Sounds like I will make it untreated and see
how it goes rust-wise.

Few comments to some answers:
- Parkerizing is what I was think of so thanks.
- I just didn't have any stainless around so I didn't want to go get a
piece just for a 2" part I might be able to make out of somehting else.
That said I mentioned it to my friend and he comes back with "hell, I
have 4 feet of what is marked as 316 stainless in my garage, got it in a
box of stuff at a yard sale!" so I have one made but SS will be next if
it rusts
- I have some 4140 pre-heat treated and you are right, it doesn't turn
all that well but I made it out of that and we will see

Thanks, Jeff

Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:

I wouldn't worry too much about rust, but making the stud from 12L14 is
likely a mistake. It's not all that great for tensile strength, and you
can bet your butt the broken one was heat treated. One made from leaded
steel, which is not heat treatable, is likely to fail quickly. Go with
the 4140, even if it's in the annealed condition. Even better would be if
its pre-heat treated. It won't machine as nicely, but your effort won't be
wasted.

Harold

On Thu, 21 Apr 2005 07:47:18 -0400, Jeff Williams wrote:

Few comments to some answers:
- Parkerizing is what I was think of so thanks.

I found my "Home Parkerizing Workshop" booklet last night just in case.
Need to reread it anyway, but if you want info, let me know.

"Dave Hinz" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 21 Apr 2005 07:47:18 -0400, Jeff Williams
wrote:

Few comments to some answers:
- Parkerizing is what I was think of so thanks.

I found my "Home Parkerizing Workshop" booklet last night just in case.
Need to reread it anyway, but if you want info, let me know.


Don't hesitate to share that information with us, Dave. Parkerizing is a
very nice finish.. If nothing else, perhaps you can tell us the source of
the booklet.

Thanks,

Harold

On Thu, 21 Apr 2005 19:54:35 -0700, Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:

"Dave Hinz" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 21 Apr 2005 07:47:18 -0400, Jeff Williams
wrote:

Few comments to some answers:
- Parkerizing is what I was think of so thanks.

I found my "Home Parkerizing Workshop" booklet last night just in case.
Need to reread it anyway, but if you want info, let me know.


Don't hesitate to share that information with us, Dave. Parkerizing is a
very nice finish.. If nothing else, perhaps you can tell us the source of
the booklet.

Will do. When I read it ten years ago, it didn't seem intimidating, and I've
learned a lot since then. So, either it will be trivially easy, or I now
know enough to understand where the hard parts are. I'll summarize some time
this weekend.

Dave Hinz

"Dave Hinz" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 21 Apr 2005 19:54:35 -0700, Harold and Susan Vordos
wrote:

"Dave Hinz" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 21 Apr 2005 07:47:18 -0400, Jeff Williams
wrote:

Few comments to some answers:
- Parkerizing is what I was think of so thanks.

I found my "Home Parkerizing Workshop" booklet last night just in case.
Need to reread it anyway, but if you want info, let me know.


Don't hesitate to share that information with us, Dave. Parkerizing
is a
very nice finish.. If nothing else, perhaps you can tell us the source
of
the booklet.

Will do. When I read it ten years ago, it didn't seem intimidating, and
I've
learned a lot since then. So, either it will be trivially easy, or I now
know enough to understand where the hard parts are. I'll summarize some
time
this weekend.

Dave Hinz


Cool! I'll keep watch.

Harold