hey all, I have been thinking about putting laminate flooring in my kitchen.
I want to keep it inexpensive but not so that it won't last. I have been
shopping around & don't know much about what is what.. the lower priced ones
are 7 to 8mm thick glueless. can anyone recommend a brand, or even what to
stay away from?
I have been looking at: Shaw, Kronoswiss, & mohawk.. all which can be
purchased for around $1/ sq foot...

TIA
Rob

"longshot" wrote in message
...
hey all, I have been thinking about putting laminate flooring in my
kitchen.
I want to keep it inexpensive but not so that it won't last. I have been
shopping around & don't know much about what is what.. the lower priced
ones
are 7 to 8mm thick glueless. can anyone recommend a brand, or even what to
stay away from?
I have been looking at: Shaw, Kronoswiss, & mohawk.. all which can be
purchased for around $1/ sq foot...

TIA
Rob

Even the cheap laminates are durable. What you get with more money is a
better appearance, (more natural looking) and better wear on the top coat.
You won't go through 8 mm of material in your lifetime, but it is the top
layer that really counts. It seems as though many of the cheaper brands
don't offer much in the way of trim strip, transition pieces, etc. That may
or may not be a factor in your decision.

In any case, if you decide to install it, you need a good carbide tipped
blade to cut it.

"longshot" wrote in message
...
hey all, I have been thinking about putting laminate flooring in my
kitchen.
I want to keep it inexpensive but not so that it won't last. I have been
shopping around & don't know much about what is what.. the lower priced
ones
are 7 to 8mm thick glueless. can anyone recommend a brand, or even what to
stay away from?
I have been looking at: Shaw, Kronoswiss, & mohawk.. all which can be
purchased for around $1/ sq foot...

TIA
Rob


I put laminate in my last kitchen. Then we had a leak under the sink. Ended
up removing it an putting down tile.

Your fooling yourself at a buck a foot for the flooring. You still need a
membrane and the pad. Check the direction for installation. My pad was $0.50
a foot on sale when I bought my flooring. Do you own or can borrow an
accurate tablesaw and miter saw?
I purchased a 10 inch Dewalt for my project. I already own a power miter
saw.

--



I put laminate in my last kitchen. Then we had a leak under the sink.
Ended
up removing it an putting down tile.

Your fooling yourself at a buck a foot for the flooring. You still need a
membrane and the pad. Check the direction for installation. My pad was
$0.50
a foot on sale when I bought my flooring. Do you own or can borrow an
accurate tablesaw and miter saw?
I purchased a 10 inch Dewalt for my project. I already own a power miter
saw.


'


yeah I got all that. , the moister barrier / pad is 32 bucks for a 200 sq ft
roll. I have tile now & hate it. old house moves too much, post & beam
framing. I think a floating floor is the way to go. we will see

I put laminate in my last kitchen. Then we had a leak under the sink. Ended
up removing it an putting down tile.

Your fooling yourself at a buck a foot for the flooring. You still need a
membrane and the pad. Check the direction for installation. My pad was $0.50
a foot on sale when I bought my flooring. Do you own or can borrow an
accurate tablesaw and miter saw?
I purchased a 10 inch Dewalt for my project. I already own a power miter
saw.



I had some laminate (Pergo) in a small room, and had a leak, and the
stuff swelled up and buckeled like crazy. I think the stuff is just
terrible in general, and in particular for any application that risks
wetness. I dont think it looks very good either. And my stuff wasnt
cheap. It ended up being as expensive as real wood flooring. If I wnated
to go with a prefinished product, I would go with a ~Bruce wood flooring
product (i.e. prefinished wood floors), or if that would be too thick an
application, tile is a great surface for a kitchen.

"longshot" wrote in message
...
hey all, I have been thinking about putting laminate flooring in my
kitchen.
I want to keep it inexpensive but not so that it won't last. I have been
shopping around & don't know much about what is what.. the lower priced
ones
are 7 to 8mm thick glueless. can anyone recommend a brand, or even what to
stay away from?
I have been looking at: Shaw, Kronoswiss, & mohawk.. all which can be
purchased for around $1/ sq foot...

TIA
Rob



We put Pergo in the kitchen about 5 or 6 years ago. Looks great, no
problems.

"longshot" wrote in message
...
hey all, I have been thinking about putting laminate flooring in my
kitchen.
I want to keep it inexpensive but not so that it won't last. I have been
shopping around & don't know much about what is what.. the lower priced
ones
are 7 to 8mm thick glueless. can anyone recommend a brand, or even what
to
stay away from?
I have been looking at: Shaw, Kronoswiss, & mohawk.. all which can be
purchased for around $1/ sq foot...

TIA
Rob



I installed the Kronoswiss glue together, not in a kitchen, in rental
property about 2 years ago. It was 7mm.

It has held up very well.

Colbyt

We put Mannington glueless (snaps together) in kitchen and baths a while
back. All doing well if you follow directions and used silicone around the
edge. Good warranty too.


"longshot" wrote in message
...
hey all, I have been thinking about putting laminate flooring in my
kitchen.
I want to keep it inexpensive but not so that it won't last. I have been
shopping around & don't know much about what is what.. the lower priced
ones
are 7 to 8mm thick glueless. can anyone recommend a brand, or even what to
stay away from?
I have been looking at: Shaw, Kronoswiss, & mohawk.. all which can be
purchased for around $1/ sq foot...

TIA
Rob

"Art" wrote in message
ink.net...
We put Mannington glueless (snaps together) in kitchen and baths a while
back. All doing well if you follow directions and used silicone around
the edge. Good warranty too.


One thing not mentioned though. was the consideration of engineered wood
rather than laminate. I put down some Mannington wood about 18 months ago
and I'm very happy with it. I have laminate on my stairs, but the wood is
much nicer overall.

"longshot" wrote in message
...


--



I put laminate in my last kitchen. Then we had a leak under the sink.
Ended
up removing it an putting down tile.

Your fooling yourself at a buck a foot for the flooring. You still need a
membrane and the pad. Check the direction for installation. My pad was
$0.50
a foot on sale when I bought my flooring. Do you own or can borrow an
accurate tablesaw and miter saw?
I purchased a 10 inch Dewalt for my project. I already own a power miter
saw.


'


yeah I got all that. , the moister barrier / pad is 32 bucks for a 200 sq
ft
roll. I have tile now & hate it. old house moves too much, post & beam
framing. I think a floating floor is the way to go. we will see



Same problem with the tiles on the second floor - floor moves too much.
Already install laminate in one of the bathrooms. Its not water proof but so
far so good.

"chester" wrote in message
...




I put laminate in my last kitchen. Then we had a leak under the sink.
Ended
up removing it an putting down tile.

Your fooling yourself at a buck a foot for the flooring. You still need a
membrane and the pad. Check the direction for installation. My pad was
$0.50
a foot on sale when I bought my flooring. Do you own or can borrow an
accurate tablesaw and miter saw?
I purchased a 10 inch Dewalt for my project. I already own a power miter
saw.



I had some laminate (Pergo) in a small room, and had a leak, and the stuff
swelled up and buckeled like crazy. I think the stuff is just terrible in
general, and in particular for any application that risks wetness. I dont
think it looks very good either. And my stuff wasnt cheap. It ended up
being as expensive as real wood flooring. If I wnated to go with a
prefinished product, I would go with a ~Bruce wood flooring product (i.e.
prefinished wood floors), or if that would be too thick an application,
tile is a great surface for a kitchen.


I had a leak too and my hardwood floor swelled and buckled just as bad as
the laminates. There is a water proof laminate product that you could
submerge it under water without damage.

I had a leak too and my hardwood floor swelled and buckled just as bad as
the laminates. There is a water proof laminate product that you could
submerge it under water without damage.


Well that is certainly true. Hardwoods will buckle when heavily wet. I
had this happenas as well (I guess I should learn to keep the water
where it belongs...). However, the swelling eventually went down
(mostly), to the point you cannot visually tell, and only can feel it
barley. And with wood, you had refinish numerous times, whereas with
laminate, you are out-of-luck.

Waterprrof laminate sounds interesting, but I just dont like the look of
laminates...

I had a leak too and my hardwood floor swelled and buckled just as bad
as
the laminates. There is a water proof laminate product that you could
submerge it under water without damage.


Well that is certainly true. Hardwoods will buckle when heavily wet. I
had this happens as well (I guess I should learn to keep the water
where it belongs...). However, the swelling eventually went down
(mostly), to the point you cannot visually tell, and only can feel it
barley. And with wood, you had refinish numerous times, whereas with
laminate, you are out-of-luck.

Waterproof laminate sounds interesting, but I just don't like the look of
laminates...


yes, but the laminates are under a buck a sq foot & take no time to replace

I am -sure- I could tell the difference. And if it even close, I am
guessing the laminate is about the same cost as real wood floors.

Mark wrote:
Waterproof laminate sounds interesting, but I just don't like the look of
laminates...


Don't like the LOOK of laminates? I defy you to tell which one of my 3 floors
is laminate......

Now, as for SOUND, that's a different story. When walking on it with hard
soled shoes, you can hear a difference between laminate and real hardwood.