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#1
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Establishing Property Line For A Fence
Or should I pay for a survey? I've heard that you can get a survey a little cheaper by calling the original survey company and just have them do an update. So what did they quote? Mine was $100 / hr to reestablish a line. |
#2
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Also, make sure the line is in fact ON the rod. Sometimes they're
displaced. |
#3
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"Sam O'Nella" wrote in message ... Also, make sure the line is in fact ON the rod. Sometimes they're displaced. Well, since I'm using the rod to _find_ the line, how do I use the line to make sure the rod is not displaced as you say? |
#4
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James Madison III wrote:
"Sam O'Nella" wrote in message ... Also, make sure the line is in fact ON the rod. Sometimes they're displaced. Well, since I'm using the rod to _find_ the line, how do I use the line to make sure the rod is not displaced as you say? It is designated on the survey. |
#5
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James Madison III wrote:
"Sam O'Nella" wrote in message ... Also, make sure the line is in fact ON the rod. Sometimes they're displaced. Well, since I'm using the rod to _find_ the line, how do I use the line to make sure the rod is not displaced as you say? Hi, The rod is pretty long driven deep. Won't move easily. Tony |
#6
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James Madison III wrote: I'm about to extend my backyard wood privacy fence. The fence now stops at the back of the house. I want to extend it 20 feet going towards the street. Since there is no old fence on the 20 feet of yard I'll be working on, I need to make sure where the property line is. I have the diagram from the 1993 survey which says there are iron rods in place. Do you think I'm safe to just find the rod myself and pull a string tight between it and the last post on the old fence? Or should I pay for a survey? I've heard that you can get a survey a little cheaper by calling the original survey company and just have them do an update. Usually you put a fence a few inches inside the property line, just so there is no issue about whose property it's on. Ideally you would find both iron rods on that side (front corner and back corner) and run a string between them -- that is the property line -- then put the fence just inside that. The rods are often buried a couple inches deep but are usually not too hard to find if you know generally where it should be. Of course, they are easy to find with a metal detector! |
#7
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"Heathcliff" wrote in message ups.com... James Madison III wrote: I'm about to extend my backyard wood privacy fence. The fence now stops at the back of the house. I want to extend it 20 feet going towards the street. Since there is no old fence on the 20 feet of yard I'll be working on, I need to make sure where the property line is. I have the diagram from the 1993 survey which says there are iron rods in place. Do you think I'm safe to just find the rod myself and pull a string tight between it and the last post on the old fence? Or should I pay for a survey? I've heard that you can get a survey a little cheaper by calling the original survey company and just have them do an update. Usually you put a fence a few inches inside the property line, just so there is no issue about whose property it's on. Ideally you would find both iron rods on that side (front corner and back corner) and run a string between them -- that is the property line -- then put the fence just inside that. The rods are often buried a couple inches deep but are usually not too hard to find if you know generally where it should be. Of course, they are easy to find with a metal detector! Yes, I can see how doing a string between the front and back iron rods would be best. I would have to destroy about 80 feet of fence to do that though I think I'll tie on to the front rod, then tie on to the last fence post, then go a few inches in just to be safe as you suggested. Thanks for the info. |
#8
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Tie a line from the front of the property to the rear, putting in a
temporary stake about a foot or so outside the property stakes. Then measure in a foot to make sure you are clearanced properly at any given point on the property line. This should eliminate having to tear down fence to make sure things are done properly. There is nothing better than knowing first hand where things *should* be. Yes, I can see how doing a string between the front and back iron rods would be best. I would have to destroy about 80 feet of fence to do that though I think I'll tie on to the front rod, then tie on to the last fence post, then go a few inches in just to be safe as you suggested. Thanks for the info. Remove "YOURPANTIES" to reply MUADIB® http://www.angelfire.com/retro/sster...IN%20PAGE.html one small step for man,..... One giant leap for attorneys. |
#9
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On 1/31/2005 8:46 PM US(ET), MUADIB=AE took fingers to keys, and typed th=
e=20 following: Tie a line from the front of the property to the rear, putting in a temporary stake about a foot or so outside the property stakes. Then measure in a foot to make sure you are clearanced properly at any given point on the property line. This should eliminate having to tear down fence to make sure things are done properly. There is nothing better than knowing first hand where things *should* be. =20 Except where knowing first hand, where things are *allowed* to be, which = a visit to the local building department.will determine. Between the=20 time the original fence was built and the current time, setback codes=20 may have changed. I know that 20 years ago, the fence setback in my area was 6" for a 6'=20 foot high fence. It is now 3'. I have to get a permit to replace damaged portions of my fence, although = I am grandfathered at 6" =20 =20 Yes, I can see how doing a string between the front and back iron rods = would be best. I would have to destroy about 80 feet of fence to do that tho= ugh I think I'll tie on to the front rod, then tie on to the last fence pos= t, then go a few inches in just to be safe as you suggested. Thanks for t= he info. =20 Remove "YOURPANTIES" to reply =20 MUADIB=AE http://www.angelfire.com/retro/sster...IN%20PAGE.html one small step for man,..... One giant leap for attorneys. =20 --=20 Bill |
#10
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Except where knowing first hand, where things are *allowed* to be, which a visit to the local building department.will determine. Between the time the original fence was built and the current time, setback codes may have changed. There is that isn't there?.................LOL And another damn good added post ! Remove "YOURPANTIES" to reply MUADIB® http://www.angelfire.com/retro/sster...IN%20PAGE.html one small step for man,..... One giant leap for attorneys. |
#11
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Talk to your City Surveyor he will know the correct way and it is free.
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#12
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James Madison III wrote:
.... Yes, I can see how doing a string between the front and back iron rods would be best. I would have to destroy about 80 feet of fence to do that though I think I'll tie on to the front rod, then tie on to the last fence post, then go a few inches in just to be safe as you suggested. Thanks for the info. If you can find both rods, it should be pretty easy to run a line of sight line down the existing fence to the other rod to see if it is inside or on the line. I've not read whole thread, but if nobody has mentioned it, since you mentioned going towards the street be sure you know what zoning rules (if any) apply or subdivision covenants. |
#13
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This seems strange to me. Why would the fence separating two properties
not be built *on* the boundary, straddling it, with the owners of the adjacent properties sharing the cost? -- unless, as on one side of our property, there is a drainage easement, in which case, I assume, no fence could be built at all. Perce On 01/31/05 06:06 pm Heathcliff tossed the following ingredients into the ever-growing pot of cybersoup: Usually you put a fence a few inches inside the property line, just so there is no issue about whose property it's on. Ideally you would find both iron rods on that side (front corner and back corner) and run a string between them -- that is the property line -- then put the fence just inside that. The rods are often buried a couple inches deep but are usually not too hard to find if you know generally where it should be. Of course, they are easy to find with a metal detector! |
#14
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On 1/31/2005 10:18 PM US(ET), Percival P. Cassidy took fingers to keys,
and typed the following: This seems strange to me. Why would the fence separating two properties not be built *on* the boundary, straddling it, with the owners of the adjacent properties sharing the cost? -- unless, as on one side of our property, there is a drainage easement, in which case, I assume, no fence could be built at all. If your fence is on the line, there is no place for you to fix, paint, or otherwise touch the outside of your fence without trespassing on your neighbor's property. Perce On 01/31/05 06:06 pm Heathcliff tossed the following ingredients into the ever-growing pot of cybersoup: Usually you put a fence a few inches inside the property line, just so there is no issue about whose property it's on. Ideally you would find both iron rods on that side (front corner and back corner) and run a string between them -- that is the property line -- then put the fence just inside that. The rods are often buried a couple inches deep but are usually not too hard to find if you know generally where it should be. Of course, they are easy to find with a metal detector! -- Bill |
#15
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"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote in message ... This seems strange to me. Why would the fence separating two properties not be built *on* the boundary, straddling it, with the owners of the adjacent properties sharing the cost? -- unless, as on one side of our property, there is a drainage easement, in which case, I assume, no fence could be built at all. I think it is a safety issue to avoid disputes later. For one thing, I'm not willing to share the cost. I don't want a fence and it my neighbor does, it is on him 100%. If accidentally he strayed on my property with it I'd not be happy about it. In some neighborhoods, you are correct and both may share the cost. The next problem is 20 years later when both have moved and new people reside there and the fence needs repairs. One says OK, the other says No. |
#16
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"Sam O'Nella" wrote in message ... Or should I pay for a survey? I've heard that you can get a survey a little cheaper by calling the original survey company and just have them do an update. So what did they quote? Mine was $100 / hr to reestablish a line. I have not called the survey company yet. But I'm glad to know that pricing info, thanks. If it's that much, I'll probably just find it myself, then go a few inches in just to be safe. |
#17
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James Madison III wrote:
I'm about to extend my backyard wood privacy fence. The fence now stops at the back of the house. I want to extend it 20 feet going towards the street. (snip) In my community, a side-yard fence may not extend beyond the back of the house (toward the street). You ought to check with the local building department. Roby |
#18
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"Roby" wrote in message ... James Madison III wrote: I'm about to extend my backyard wood privacy fence. The fence now stops at the back of the house. I want to extend it 20 feet going towards the street. (snip) In my community, a side-yard fence may not extend beyond the back of the house (toward the street). You ought to check with the local building department. Roby The fence on the opposite side of my house (my fence) extends 30 feet past the back of the house towards the street, also I see many other houses in my neighborhood have fences that extend past the back of the house so I guess I thought I was safe. I don't want to tear down though so I'll probably check the codes just in case. |
#19
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I had the original surveyor come out to do it. He used a metal detector,
found the iron rods and staked them for $100. I could have done that. The cost of the survey is dependant on how far back the surveyor has to go to establish a reference. The original surveyor would know where the references are. More importantly is knowing your communities regulations. I couldnt extend my fence beyond the front of the house even though I could point to a dozen houses that had done so. But than I had gotten a permit and the others all eventually got letters asking them to demolish their fences. In addition the codes required the fence to be 6 inches inside the property line with the good side facing out. "James Madison III" wrote in message ... "Roby" wrote in message ... James Madison III wrote: I'm about to extend my backyard wood privacy fence. The fence now stops at the back of the house. I want to extend it 20 feet going towards the street. (snip) In my community, a side-yard fence may not extend beyond the back of the house (toward the street). You ought to check with the local building department. Roby The fence on the opposite side of my house (my fence) extends 30 feet past the back of the house towards the street, also I see many other houses in my neighborhood have fences that extend past the back of the house so I guess I thought I was safe. I don't want to tear down though so I'll probably check the codes just in case. |
#20
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"Jmagerl" wrote in message news But than I had gotten a permit and the others all eventually got letters asking them to demolish their fences. You must be the neighborhood hero! How's mischief night at your house? |
#21
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Kathy wrote: "Jmagerl" wrote in message news But than I had gotten a permit and the others all eventually got letters asking them to demolish their fences. You must be the neighborhood hero! How's mischief night at your house? I think you misunderstood (or maybe I did). It doesn't read to me like HE sent the letters, rather, letters were sent by the township or whoever regulates that type of thing in his community. -- Jennifer |
#22
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On Mon, 31 Jan 2005 22:51:51 GMT, "James Madison III" wrote:
I'm about to extend my backyard wood privacy fence. The fence now stops at the back of the house. I want to extend it 20 feet going towards the street. Since there is no old fence on the 20 feet of yard I'll be working on, I need to make sure where the property line is. I have the diagram from the 1993 survey which says there are iron rods in place. Do you think I'm safe to just find the rod myself and pull a string tight between it and the last post on the old fence? Or should I pay for a survey? I've heard that you can get a survey a little cheaper by calling the original survey company and just have them do an update. Surveys around here run about $300, but having one is a sure way to avoid any disputes later. I'd find the rods myself, then make sure the fence is a couple inches inside the property line. |
#23
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My fence & neighbor tale...
I had a tall healthy looking elderly one armed neighbor behind me tell me quite loudly my bushes were sticking through my horz shadow box fencing onto his property - he had walked into my garage while I was under a car with my legs sticking out & quite greasy .... I instantly popped out and politely apologized and said I'll fix it right now . Stopped what I was doing and trimmed the bushes - some, very few small bushy limbs fell onto his property - he returned and complained rudely I offered to come clean up - No!. Maybe a yr or two later same ordeal - I asked to access his side of fence, he said no - Told me I should get rid of that fence as it ruins his view. again; Complained some clippings fell on his side. He had a row of bushes along the fence on his side too ... they were always poking though and I never would have even considered complaining until he hires a guy with a pickup truck to wrap chain around all his bushes and a running yank to remove all of his bushes, some had branches poking thru the fence and they were yanking out lots of those horizontal cedar slats. I got there about the time he was near finished and yelled at the guy to stop - The neighbor comes out and grabbed a fence post and I swear if he had two arms he would have yanked that post loose and pummeled me with it .. he was angry as heck I complained to him about the fence damage ...that ruins his view of my house & back yard. "Phisherman" wrote in message ... On Mon, 31 Jan 2005 22:51:51 GMT, "James Madison III" wrote: I'm about to extend my backyard wood privacy fence. The fence now stops at the back of the house. I want to extend it 20 feet going towards the street. Since there is no old fence on the 20 feet of yard I'll be working on, I need to make sure where the property line is. I have the diagram from the 1993 survey which says there are iron rods in place. Do you think I'm safe to just find the rod myself and pull a string tight between it and the last post on the old fence? Or should I pay for a survey? I've heard that you can get a survey a little cheaper by calling the original survey company and just have them do an update. Surveys around here run about $300, but having one is a sure way to avoid any disputes later. I'd find the rods myself, then make sure the fence is a couple inches inside the property line. |
#24
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bumtracks wrote: My fence & neighbor tale... I had a tall healthy looking elderly one armed neighbor behind me tell me quite loudly my bushes were sticking through my horz shadow box fencing onto Where I live, what grows over my property is mine. Tree limbs and shrubs over my line are mine to trim and clean up, unless one has an agreement that neighbor trims both sides of his hedge. It is also against building code here to mutilate trees, so "revenge" tree trimming would not work. Picking up a piece of lumber and threatening someone comes close to assault. I would keep my distance, and invite him to leave your property immediately if he comes back - call the cops if you have more trouble. Restraining orders don't cost much. Sounds like a miserable guy - does he live alone? |
#25
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Norminn wrote:
bumtracks wrote: My fence & neighbor tale... I had a tall healthy looking elderly one armed neighbor behind me tell me quite loudly my bushes were sticking through my horz shadow box fencing onto Where I live, what grows over my property is mine. Tree limbs and shrubs over my line are mine to trim and clean up, unless one has an agreement that neighbor trims both sides of his hedge. It is also against building code here to mutilate trees, so "revenge" tree trimming would not work. Picking up a piece of lumber and threatening someone comes close to assault. I would keep my distance, and invite him to leave your property immediately if he comes back - call the cops if you have more trouble. Restraining orders don't cost much. Sounds like a miserable guy - does he live alone? Hi, Sounds like angry one arm nut case. He'll lose another arm some day if he does not change. Glad I never had neighbor like that in my life time. Tony |
#26
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On Tue, 01 Feb 2005 12:33:11 GMT, Phisherman wrote:
$300 is cheap and I always thought it will cost upward to 1K, BTW, where are you? Surveys around here run about $300, but having one is a sure way to avoid any disputes later. I'd find the rods myself, then make sure the fence is a couple inches inside the property line. |
#27
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I paid $100 for the survey company to come out and stake out the lot.
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#28
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iradi8 wrote:
I paid $100 for the survey company to come out and stake out the lot. I paid $700 for a 1.1 acre lot, fairly flat, with 5 corners. I had bids from surveyors for $1600. I just wanted to know where the corners are. I found out that I own about 100 feet further back into the conservation land than I had assumed. It's a little hard to get to but I have to pay tax on it anyway. The Town wouldn't let me give it to them because it would leave the piece with my house less than the required size! |
#29
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xrongor wrote:
people in this group are very confronational. there is a simple solution. go talk to the neighbor. show him where the line is as you see it. show him where you are going to build the fence. then get him to sign something that says he agrees to have the fence there. worry about problems if they actually arise. randy "James Madison III" wrote in message ... I'm about to extend my backyard wood privacy fence. The fence now stops at the back of the house. I want to extend it 20 feet going towards the street. Since there is no old fence on the 20 feet of yard I'll be working on, I need to make sure where the property line is. I have the diagram from the 1993 survey which says there are iron rods in place. Do you think I'm safe to just find the rod myself and pull a string tight between it and the last post on the old fence? Or should I pay for a survey? I've heard that you can get a survey a little cheaper by calling the original survey company and just have them do an update. Because some people have neighbors (like me) who are jackasses. |
#30
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"GFRfan" wrote in message worry about problems if they actually arise. randy Because some people have neighbors (like me) who are jackasses. Makes two of us. I'd not sign anything. He want the fence, it is his problem. I don't want a fence. |
#31
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"GFRfan" wrote in message worry about problems if they actually arise. randy Because some people have neighbors (like me) who are jackasses. Makes two of us. I'd not sign anything. He want the fence, it is his problem. I don't want a fence. Hi, You two better be neighbors, LOL! I don't have neighbors, lonely! Tony |
#32
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..
I'm about to extend my backyard wood privacy fence. The fence now stops at the back of the house. I want to extend it 20 feet going towards the street. Since there is no old fence on the 20 feet of yard I'll be working on, I need to make sure where the property line is. I have the diagram from the 1993 survey which says there are iron rods in place. Do you think I'm safe to just find the rod myself and pull a string tight between it and the last post on the old fence? Or should I pay for a survey? I've heard that you can get a survey a little cheaper by calling the original survey company and just have them do an update. Because some people have neighbors (like me) who are jackasses. ======================================== Sounds like you have a the normal small sub division lot.. and it was surveyed 10 years ago and as usual they (The survayers) have left 9 iron (markers) in place.... . Grab the copy of the survey and look for some of those markers... My home was built almopst 40 years ago and a few years ago I found the markers that I needed in almost no time at all... In ten years they should be easily found... Then you can install the fence (as per local codes..set backs etc) I truely have fantastic neighbors but I sure would not sign off on a project for them that could affect my own property nor would I expect them to sign off on one for me.... Bob Griffiths. |
#33
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I doubt if the neighbor will sign anything. Put yourself in his
position. Will you do it? Even if that happens, how does the document with signatures going to change the property lines delineated in the deeds. If the document is not consistent with the deeds, it is useless. |
#34
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"James Madison III" wrote in message
... I'm about to extend my backyard wood privacy fence. The fence now stops at the back of the house. I want to extend it 20 feet going towards the street. Since there is no old fence on the 20 feet of yard I'll be working on, I need to make sure where the property line is. I have the diagram from the 1993 survey which says there are iron rods in place. Do you think I'm safe to just find the rod myself and pull a string tight between it and the last post on the old fence? Or should I pay for a survey? I've heard that you can get a survey a little cheaper by calling the original survey company and just have them do an update. assuming your property is adjacent to another property owner's land: you could build it without the other property owner's permission but if you do so you will pay for the entire fence, if you build it right on the property line the neighbor coul contest it, if you build it right inside the property line on your side and it ever needs replacing you pay 100% for replacement, otherwise you both agree to pay 1/2 and agree on the kind of fence survey update for fence line would be a good idea, neighbor could split the cost of that too |
#35
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James Madison III wrote:
I'm about to extend my backyard wood privacy fence. The fence now stops at the back of the house. I want to extend it 20 feet going towards the street. Since there is no old fence on the 20 feet of yard I'll be working on, I need to make sure where the property line is. I have the diagram from the 1993 survey which says there are iron rods in place. Do you think I'm safe to just find the rod myself and pull a string tight between it and the last post on the old fence? Or should I pay for a survey? I've heard that you can get a survey a little cheaper by calling the original survey company and just have them do an update. Hi, If you can find 4 rods at 4 corner of the lot with metal detector or digging around, that's it. You already have a drawing to guesstimate where the spots are. Good luck, Tont |
#36
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I moved into my house a year ago and wanted to put in a fence all the
way around my property. The original survey company wanted $100 per corner to put iron stakes in. I found out that this propery was subdivided from a larger lot when the house was built in 1990 so I figured the stakes were already there. After a couple swipes with a rake, I got out the hose and started spraying with a hard stream. After about 2 minutes I saw a bright yellow cap on the iron stake. I repeated the process at all corners. By the way, I got the general area of the corners by measuring from the first stake per my survey's measurements. Bobby |
#37
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On 25 Feb 2005 11:34:07 -0800, "Bobby_M" wrote:
BTW, how do the iron stake look like and how deep (or length of stake) it stake into the ground? Thanks I moved into my house a year ago and wanted to put in a fence all the way around my property. The original survey company wanted $100 per corner to put iron stakes in. I found out that this propery was subdivided from a larger lot when the house was built in 1990 so I figured the stakes were already there. After a couple swipes with a rake, I got out the hose and started spraying with a hard stream. After about 2 minutes I saw a bright yellow cap on the iron stake. I repeated the process at all corners. By the way, I got the general area of the corners by measuring from the first stake per my survey's measurements. Bobby |
#39
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"Jim B" wrote in message ... On 25 Feb 2005 11:34:07 -0800, "Bobby_M" wrote: BTW, how do the iron stake look like and how deep (or length of stake) it stake into the ground? Around here they are 3/4" rebar 18" or 24" long (I can't recall) and are pounded flush with the ground at initial set. They have a plastic cap, color varies, with the surveyors name printed on it. Over time they tend to be lower in the ground as landscaping and sediment occurs. More than 5 years after the fact you would be lucky to find the cap let alone read it. Most locate services use a metal detector in the general area they believe the boundary to be and then dig when they find metal. Front line boundaries are more difficult because they are generally referenced, depending on locality, from the center of the roadway or from the curb. Curb pins are usually nothing more than a PK nail nailed into the curb. They don't last long. You can check this by locating your rear boundary and measuring towards the street the distance referenced on your plat. Your tape will not provide the same accuracy as the surveyors equipment, (grades affect this more than flat land). An interesting side story. A few years back, a neighbor and I were having a discussion over who owned a retaining wall that fell. I was and still am sure that it was his wall even though I spent a lot of money and time rebuilding it. The property was platted in 1906 on the side of a sharp hill. Using modern methods and equipment I owned that d&%$ wall. I think they used chains in 1906. By that method the wall would have been his. I refrained from asking the surveyor if he thought the original surveyor used the same model as he did. Colbyt |
#40
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On Fri, 25 Feb 2005 20:05:25 -0500, "Colbyt"
wrote: Thanks! I like to find the stake at the corner of our property. This is the "starting point" for the fifty plus homes subdivision. The "stake" is on a higher ground (2' to 4') beside a ditch and pebble's road to leading to my neighbors' farm. The areas have since eroded, with yours and DanG description, I doubt could find the stake now. BTW, the houses here were built in the early eighties. "Jim B" wrote in message ... On 25 Feb 2005 11:34:07 -0800, "Bobby_M" wrote: BTW, how do the iron stake look like and how deep (or length of stake) it stake into the ground? Around here they are 3/4" rebar 18" or 24" long (I can't recall) and are pounded flush with the ground at initial set. They have a plastic cap, color varies, with the surveyors name printed on it. Over time they tend to be lower in the ground as landscaping and sediment occurs. More than 5 years after the fact you would be lucky to find the cap let alone read it. Most locate services use a metal detector in the general area they believe the boundary to be and then dig when they find metal. Front line boundaries are more difficult because they are generally referenced, depending on locality, from the center of the roadway or from the curb. Curb pins are usually nothing more than a PK nail nailed into the curb. They don't last long. You can check this by locating your rear boundary and measuring towards the street the distance referenced on your plat. Your tape will not provide the same accuracy as the surveyors equipment, (grades affect this more than flat land). An interesting side story. A few years back, a neighbor and I were having a discussion over who owned a retaining wall that fell. I was and still am sure that it was his wall even though I spent a lot of money and time rebuilding it. The property was platted in 1906 on the side of a sharp hill. Using modern methods and equipment I owned that d&%$ wall. I think they used chains in 1906. By that method the wall would have been his. I refrained from asking the surveyor if he thought the original surveyor used the same model as he did. Colbyt |
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