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DanG
 
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I assume you are asking what the stake does look like and how deep
it may be.

It will usually be a 1/2"diameter rebar or smooth steel pin, often
with a plastic surveyor's cap (yellow) on the top of the stake.
It will usually be 8-12" below grade. If you have a strong reason
to guess at the corner location based on other fences, street set
back, etc you should be able to dig down to find the stake in one
bite of the shovel.

If you miss, the yard can quickly look like gophers have taken up
permanent residence.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Jim B" wrote in message
...
On 25 Feb 2005 11:34:07 -0800, "Bobby_M"
wrote:

BTW, how do the iron stake look like and how deep (or length of
stake) it stake
into the ground?

Thanks

I moved into my house a year ago and wanted to put in a fence
all the
way around my property. The original survey company wanted $100
per
corner to put iron stakes in. I found out that this propery was
subdivided from a larger lot when the house was built in 1990 so
I
figured the stakes were already there. After a couple swipes
with a
rake, I got out the hose and started spraying with a hard
stream. After
about 2 minutes I saw a bright yellow cap on the iron stake. I
repeated
the process at all corners. By the way, I got the general area
of the
corners by measuring from the first stake per my survey's
measurements.

Bobby




  #42   Report Post  
Colbyt
 
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"Jim B" wrote in message
...
On 25 Feb 2005 11:34:07 -0800, "Bobby_M" wrote:

BTW, how do the iron stake look like and how deep (or length of stake) it

stake
into the ground?


Around here they are 3/4" rebar 18" or 24" long (I can't recall) and are
pounded flush with the ground at initial set. They have a plastic cap,
color varies, with the surveyors name printed on it. Over time they tend to
be lower in the ground as landscaping and sediment occurs. More than 5 years
after the fact you would be lucky to find the cap let alone read it.

Most locate services use a metal detector in the general area they believe
the boundary to be and then dig when they find metal.

Front line boundaries are more difficult because they are generally
referenced, depending on locality, from the center of the roadway or from
the curb. Curb pins are usually nothing more than a PK nail nailed into the
curb. They don't last long. You can check this by locating your rear
boundary and measuring towards the street the distance referenced on your
plat. Your tape will not provide the same accuracy as the surveyors
equipment, (grades affect this more than flat land).

An interesting side story. A few years back, a neighbor and I were having a
discussion over who owned a retaining wall that fell. I was and still am
sure that it was his wall even though I spent a lot of money and time
rebuilding it. The property was platted in 1906 on the side of a sharp hill.
Using modern methods and equipment I owned that d&%$ wall. I think they
used chains in 1906. By that method the wall would have been his. I
refrained from asking the surveyor if he thought the original surveyor used
the same model as he did.

Colbyt


  #43   Report Post  
Jim B
 
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On Fri, 25 Feb 2005 20:05:25 -0500, "Colbyt"
wrote:

Thanks!

I like to find the stake at the corner of our property. This is the "starting
point" for the fifty plus homes subdivision. The "stake" is on a higher ground
(2' to 4') beside a ditch and pebble's road to leading to my neighbors' farm.
The areas have since eroded, with yours and DanG description, I doubt could find
the stake now.

BTW, the houses here were built in the early eighties.


"Jim B" wrote in message
...
On 25 Feb 2005 11:34:07 -0800, "Bobby_M" wrote:

BTW, how do the iron stake look like and how deep (or length of stake) it

stake
into the ground?


Around here they are 3/4" rebar 18" or 24" long (I can't recall) and are
pounded flush with the ground at initial set. They have a plastic cap,
color varies, with the surveyors name printed on it. Over time they tend to
be lower in the ground as landscaping and sediment occurs. More than 5 years
after the fact you would be lucky to find the cap let alone read it.

Most locate services use a metal detector in the general area they believe
the boundary to be and then dig when they find metal.

Front line boundaries are more difficult because they are generally
referenced, depending on locality, from the center of the roadway or from
the curb. Curb pins are usually nothing more than a PK nail nailed into the
curb. They don't last long. You can check this by locating your rear
boundary and measuring towards the street the distance referenced on your
plat. Your tape will not provide the same accuracy as the surveyors
equipment, (grades affect this more than flat land).

An interesting side story. A few years back, a neighbor and I were having a
discussion over who owned a retaining wall that fell. I was and still am
sure that it was his wall even though I spent a lot of money and time
rebuilding it. The property was platted in 1906 on the side of a sharp hill.
Using modern methods and equipment I owned that d&%$ wall. I think they
used chains in 1906. By that method the wall would have been his. I
refrained from asking the surveyor if he thought the original surveyor used
the same model as he did.

Colbyt


  #44   Report Post  
Colbyt
 
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"Jim B" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 25 Feb 2005 20:05:25 -0500, "Colbyt"


wrote:

Thanks!

I like to find the stake at the corner of our property. This is the

"starting
point" for the fifty plus homes subdivision. The "stake" is on a higher

ground
(2' to 4') beside a ditch and pebble's road to leading to my neighbors'

farm.
The areas have since eroded, with yours and DanG description, I doubt

could find
the stake now.

BTW, the houses here were built in the early eighties.




Most likely not. A licensed surveyor could.

Most modern starting point references also include a latitude-longitude
reference.

Colbyt


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