Well my neighbor was having a yard sale and the next day he gave me all that
didn't
sell, well anyway I brought home a Sears RAS 12 inch, he said it ran, but
it didn't have a plug, so I put a plug on it, plugged it in and the motor
turns but only at a very slow speed, could it be possible that this saw is a
220 volt (I hooked it up to 110).

Second question, anyone have a manual for a Sears RAS 12 inch, model number
113.29501?

Can anyone explain the controls on the saw?

If this is supposed to be 220 volts can it be rewired to run on 110.

I'll write later with more questions on the bench top belt sander I also
got.

Thanks All
Bill

Go to the Sear's web site: They have parts lsits and manuals for
many tools there. I used to use them all the time.

Whether it's 110 or 220 will be indicated on the nameplate and/or
on the motor somewhere. Look and see. If it hummed and got hot
on 110, it's very likely a 220 motor (yes, I know that sounds
backwards; but ... it's the case). So don't leave 110 on it for
long until you find out what its rated voltage needs to be.
You can find out for yourself; just look for the markings.

Pop


Bill Becker wrote:
Well my neighbor was having a yard sale and the next day he
gave me
all that didn't
sell, well anyway I brought home a Sears RAS 12 inch, he said
it ran,
but it didn't have a plug, so I put a plug on it, plugged it in
and
the motor turns but only at a very slow speed, could it be
possible
that this saw is a 220 volt (I hooked it up to 110).

Second question, anyone have a manual for a Sears RAS 12 inch,
model
number 113.29501?

Can anyone explain the controls on the saw?

If this is supposed to be 220 volts can it be rewired to run on
110.

I'll write later with more questions on the bench top belt
sander I
also got.

Thanks All
Bill

Wow - what a deal! (What a neighbor!)

Anyway, could the blade or shaft be crooked somehow? If so, it might
be grinding and thus turning very slowly, in which case you're in
danger of burning up the motor. These machines can require quite a bit
of calibration, which a manual could help with.

How old is the unit? Maybe someone will have something close enough to
get you started.

Good luck!

"Bill Becker" wrote:

Well my neighbor was having a yard sale and the next day he gave me all that
didn't
sell, well anyway I brought home a Sears RAS 12 inch, he said it ran, but
it didn't have a plug, so I put a plug on it, plugged it in and the motor
turns but only at a very slow speed, could it be possible that this saw is a
220 volt (I hooked it up to 110).

Nice neighbor!

Very possible that it's wired for 220. Slightly possible the motor is
binding, although it would have to be bound up pretty bad to only turn
slowly. I'd think there would also be a loud hum in that case and the
thermal cutout would trip pretty quickly.

Second question, anyone have a manual for a Sears RAS 12 inch, model number
113.29501?

Can anyone explain the controls on the saw?

Explaining a RAS is a bit much for a Usenet post - whole books have
been written about them. And as someone else posted, there are a lot
of adjustments - you really need to do a bit of studying before
proceeding.

If this is supposed to be 220 volts can it be rewired to run on 110.

Almost certainly. Your model # is very close to my 10" (113.29401)-
probably the same vintage, doesn't mean the wiring is though. On mine,
there are instructions on changing the voltage right on the nameplate
on top of the motor.

If you can't find a manual I will copy mine for you for the cost of
copying (about 20 pages) and postage. There's a lot of basic
information in it that would be useful for any RAS.


Roger Grady
To reply by email, remove "qlfit." from address

"John‰]*
************************************************** *************"
wrote:


Go to http://www3.sears.com and enter the model number.

All parts including the "OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS & PARTS LIST" can be
ordered online and delivered to your door.

True, but the manual for the OP's saw (and for mine) are no longer
available. I checked the Sears site before I made my post, but
neglected to mention that fact.


Roger Grady
To reply by email, remove "qlfit." from address