I have a neo-angle shower enclosure that is leaking at the base where
the enclosure meets the wall. The house is about six years old and I
am the 2nd owner. Someone before me sealed the inside of the enclosure
where the metal sits on the base. (I'm not sure whether this was done
at the time of installation or afterwards to repair a prior leak). The
installation manual for the unit clearly states you should not caulk
the inside. I called the toll-free number for the manufacturer (AMS)
and they said to remove the sealant and do not reseal the inside, or it
will leak.

I'm torn between: (1) following the directions; or, (2) sealing the
dickens out of everything, including the inside, with GEII 100%
silicone. One reason I'm leaning toward option (2) is because I don't
think the unit was installed properly in the first place, therefore,
the remaining instructions are rendered moot. Specifically, there is
supposed to be a "filler strip" between the base and the drywall, and I
can't see one (all I see is damp sheetrock sitting right on top of the
base, covered by ceramic tile). Also, a contractor friend of mine who
has installed many of these units said he always seals the inside
(i.e., to heck with the instructions). Any advice? just spent hours
scraping the old silicone off the entire unit and I don't relish the
thought of doing it again in the near future.

Who is the manufacturer of the enclosure. I just installed a Jacuzzi
system but have not completed the installation. The base and walls are
up. I have not installed the glass doors yet.


mele wrote:
I have a neo-angle shower enclosure that is leaking at the base where
the enclosure meets the wall. The house is about six years old and I
am the 2nd owner. Someone before me sealed the inside of the
enclosure
where the metal sits on the base. (I'm not sure whether this was done
at the time of installation or afterwards to repair a prior leak).
The
installation manual for the unit clearly states you should not caulk
the inside. I called the toll-free number for the manufacturer (AMS)
and they said to remove the sealant and do not reseal the inside, or
it
will leak.

I'm torn between: (1) following the directions; or, (2) sealing the
dickens out of everything, including the inside, with GEII 100%
silicone. One reason I'm leaning toward option (2) is because I
don't
think the unit was installed properly in the first place, therefore,
the remaining instructions are rendered moot. Specifically, there is
supposed to be a "filler strip" between the base and the drywall, and
I
can't see one (all I see is damp sheetrock sitting right on top of
the
base, covered by ceramic tile). Also, a contractor friend of mine
who
has installed many of these units said he always seals the inside
(i.e., to heck with the instructions). Any advice? just spent hours
scraping the old silicone off the entire unit and I don't relish the
thought of doing it again in the near future.

American Shower and Bath Corporation. www.asbcorp.com
What does Jacuzzi say about sealing/caulking the inside ?

"mele" wrote in message
ups.com...

I'm torn between: (1) following the directions; or, (2) sealing the
dickens out of everything, including the inside, with GEII 100%
silicone. One reason I'm leaning toward option (2) is because I don't
think the unit was installed properly in the first place, therefore,
the remaining instructions are rendered moot. Specifically, there is
supposed to be a "filler strip" between the base and the drywall, and I
can't see one (all I see is damp sheetrock sitting right on top of the
base, covered by ceramic tile).


You got troubles.

First off do this. Get a suitable plug for the shower drain. This can be
an internal plug where you remove the drain screen and plug the inside of
the pipe (Best way.) or a flat rubber style that covers the drain. (Easiest
way but sometimes not effective.)


Fill the shower pan with several inches of water and leave it sit over
night. If the water level does not drop, the pan is OK. If it drops you
have a leak in the pan and that needs to be fixed.

As far as the walls go you got a problem. Tile should not be glued to
sheetrock in a wet area. Also the backing material for the tile sits above
the top of the shower pan and the lower edge of the tile should be caulked.
See:

http://www.florestone.com/downloads/rec/rec_install.pdf

Page 3 has the best picture.

If your sheetrock is wet, you should probably look to tear out the walls and
re-do it the right way. You might very well have rotten wood under there.

You might want to have a tile guy look at it first.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

Take a look at the joint where the lower horizontal member meets the two
vertical members. Many installers give this joint short shrift yet is the
point door-sheeting water is directed to and leads directly to a path around
the inside caulking job.

"mele" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have a neo-angle shower enclosure that is leaking at the base where
the enclosure meets the wall. The house is about six years old and I
am the 2nd owner. Someone before me sealed the inside of the enclosure
where the metal sits on the base. (I'm not sure whether this was done
at the time of installation or afterwards to repair a prior leak). The
installation manual for the unit clearly states you should not caulk
the inside. I called the toll-free number for the manufacturer (AMS)
and they said to remove the sealant and do not reseal the inside, or it
will leak.

I'm torn between: (1) following the directions; or, (2) sealing the
dickens out of everything, including the inside, with GEII 100%
silicone. One reason I'm leaning toward option (2) is because I don't
think the unit was installed properly in the first place, therefore,
the remaining instructions are rendered moot. Specifically, there is
supposed to be a "filler strip" between the base and the drywall, and I
can't see one (all I see is damp sheetrock sitting right on top of the
base, covered by ceramic tile). Also, a contractor friend of mine who
has installed many of these units said he always seals the inside
(i.e., to heck with the instructions). Any advice? just spent hours
scraping the old silicone off the entire unit and I don't relish the
thought of doing it again in the near future.

if you do, probably do not want to use silicone. IIRC, silicone will not
adhere to the material ASB makes their enclosures from. I had one and
sealed inside. didn't leak.
"mele" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have a neo-angle shower enclosure that is leaking at the base where
the enclosure meets the wall. The house is about six years old and I
am the 2nd owner. Someone before me sealed the inside of the enclosure
where the metal sits on the base. (I'm not sure whether this was done
at the time of installation or afterwards to repair a prior leak). The
installation manual for the unit clearly states you should not caulk
the inside. I called the toll-free number for the manufacturer (AMS)
and they said to remove the sealant and do not reseal the inside, or it
will leak.

I'm torn between: (1) following the directions; or, (2) sealing the
dickens out of everything, including the inside, with GEII 100%
silicone. One reason I'm leaning toward option (2) is because I don't
think the unit was installed properly in the first place, therefore,
the remaining instructions are rendered moot. Specifically, there is
supposed to be a "filler strip" between the base and the drywall, and I
can't see one (all I see is damp sheetrock sitting right on top of the
base, covered by ceramic tile). Also, a contractor friend of mine who
has installed many of these units said he always seals the inside
(i.e., to heck with the instructions). Any advice? just spent hours
scraping the old silicone off the entire unit and I don't relish the
thought of doing it again in the near future.

"mele" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have a neo-angle shower enclosure that is leaking at the base where
the enclosure meets the wall. The house is about six years old and I
am the 2nd owner. Someone before me sealed the inside of the enclosure
where the metal sits on the base. (I'm not sure whether this was done
at the time of installation or afterwards to repair a prior leak). The
installation manual for the unit clearly states you should not caulk
the inside. I called the toll-free number for the manufacturer (AMS)
and they said to remove the sealant and do not reseal the inside, or it
will leak.

I'm torn between: (1) following the directions; or, (2) sealing the
dickens out of everything, including the inside, with GEII 100%
silicone. One reason I'm leaning toward option (2) is because I don't
think the unit was installed properly in the first place, therefore,
the remaining instructions are rendered moot. Specifically, there is
supposed to be a "filler strip" between the base and the drywall, and I
can't see one (all I see is damp sheetrock sitting right on top of the
base, covered by ceramic tile). Also, a contractor friend of mine who
has installed many of these units said he always seals the inside
(i.e., to heck with the instructions). Any advice? just spent hours
scraping the old silicone off the entire unit and I don't relish the
thought of doing it again in the near future.

I installed a Neo-Angle shower about a year ago--not too much joy doing it.
It is a Sterling (Kohler). Started with just the studs. After the base
went down, the shower walls were attached to the studs--no dry wall, the
walls and base are an acrylic (plastic) material. I was very tempted to seal
between the bottom of the inside walls and the base and the inside vertical
joint between the walls. Instructions said no and I called the company and
was told that sealing these places would result in a leak. Apparently, any
water that gets into/behind where the walls attach to each other will
dribble back into the base along the wall/base joint. I didn't seal these
joints. What is sealed is the adjustable piece that is screwed to the
outside ends of the shower wall. This piece has an inside channel that is
filled with sealant before it is attached to the wall. The glass wall is
attached to this piece. I sealed along the bottom of the glass walls and the
base, both inside and outside. I also did seal the vertical joint between
the shower walls and the glass walls. So far, my fingers still crossed, no
leaks.
Make sure that your base does not flex when stepping on it. If in doubt use
foam under it.
MLD

The manual from the manuf. (ASB) says 100% silcone will not stick;
however, the ASB customer service rep. said they are now endorsing
GEII. The GEII must have some properties that other (prior) 100%
silicones do not.

Well, I tore it out last night. I got tired of sitting there looking
at this rig and saying "this is going to leak again" to myself!! There
was a lot of crud, mineral deposits actualy, inside the bottom frame
rails, telling me there was water getting inside the metal frame. I'm
going to clean it up real good and put it back together, using sealant
as I go through the re-assembly process.

I am doing a recaulk job right now. When I removed the caulk from the inside of the shower where the metal door casing sits on the base of the entry water came flowing out. Btw, all the mold was inside surface of the caulk, not on the outside surface.

So my conclusion is that water gets inside the metal casing in ways we don't see. I am NOT going to caulk the inside at that spot so that the water can flow out freely.

On Thu, 29 Nov 2018 17:49:13 -0800 (PST), wrote:

I am doing a recaulk job right now. When I removed the caulk from the inside of the shower where the metal door casing sits on the base of the entry water came flowing out. Btw, all the mold was inside surface of the caulk, not on the outside surface.

So my conclusion is that water gets inside the metal casing in ways we don't see. I am NOT going to caulk the inside at that spot so that the water can flow out freely.


IIRC when I installed my daughter's acrylic shower the instructions
expressly said do NOT seal the surround to the pan at the bottom - for
that very reason. The external panel needed to be seeled - - -