I removed a dysfunctional "Kitchen in the Closet" from the closet in my den.
It had hot/cold water, a washbasin, a refrigerator and a 4 burner stove. An
amazing fixture, but useless for me.

I cut off the plumbing drain, glued a cap on it and used the valves to turn
off the water. The electric wiring consisted of 3 # 10? wires. I don't think
anyone would have a problem with the plumbing.

I cut the electric wires, put wire-nuts over the cut ends, and enclosed it
all in a small metal junction box. The junction box and the capped plumbing
I surrounded with a small wooden enclosure against the dry-wall.

It looks neat, but how many codes did I ignore? Here are two photos:

http://home.san.rr.com/iconoclast

Thanks for any input.


--

Walter
The Happy Iconoclast www.rationality.net
-

Walter R. wrote:
I removed a dysfunctional "Kitchen in the Closet" from the closet in my den.
It had hot/cold water, a washbasin, a refrigerator and a 4 burner stove. An
amazing fixture, but useless for me.

I cut off the plumbing drain, glued a cap on it and used the valves to turn
off the water. The electric wiring consisted of 3 # 10? wires. I don't think
anyone would have a problem with the plumbing.

I cut the electric wires, put wire-nuts over the cut ends, and enclosed it
all in a small metal junction box. The junction box and the capped plumbing
I surrounded with a small wooden enclosure against the dry-wall.

It looks neat, but how many codes did I ignore? Here are two photos:

http://home.san.rr.com/iconoclast

Thanks for any input.




Put a cover (which you probably removed just for the picture) on the
junction box and it looks good to me.

Bob

Walter R. wrote:
I removed a dysfunctional "Kitchen in the Closet" from the closet in my den.
It had hot/cold water, a washbasin, a refrigerator and a 4 burner stove. An
amazing fixture, but useless for me.

I cut off the plumbing drain, glued a cap on it and used the valves to turn
off the water. SNIP

Get a pair of "compression caps" for the valves; right now you are
relying on the rubber washers inside for prevention of a flood.
(I can't tell from the pic whether they are 3/8" or 1/2", but if
you still have the old supply tubing, take that along to the store.)

Jim

That looks pretty danged good to me! Neat work BTW. Only
comment I'd have is, if it were mine, I'd be sure the breaker was
removed & the opening plugged appropriately.

Walter R. wrote:
I removed a dysfunctional "Kitchen in the Closet" from the
closet in
my den. It had hot/cold water, a washbasin, a refrigerator and
a 4
burner stove. An amazing fixture, but useless for me.

I cut off the plumbing drain, glued a cap on it and used the
valves
to turn off the water. The electric wiring consisted of 3 #
10?
wires. I don't think anyone would have a problem with the
plumbing.

I cut the electric wires, put wire-nuts over the cut ends, and
enclosed it all in a small metal junction box. The junction
box and
the capped plumbing I surrounded with a small wooden enclosure
against the dry-wall.

It looks neat, but how many codes did I ignore? Here are two
photos:

http://home.san.rr.com/iconoclast

Thanks for any input.


--

Walter
The Happy Iconoclast www.rationality.net
-

--
--
One should not be so p-h-i-l-o-p-o-L-e-m-i-c
lest they be seen as disputatious.

What size wire is in there? Looks larger than 12 gauge romex.

In my area, ANYTHING electric that close would have to be GFCI'd.
(rightfully so, a little water over there and the pipes come alive)
You will either have to GFCI it now or later when (or if) that area
gets used again.
As the other guy said, compression caps would be an idea.

Tom

"Walter R." wrote in message
...
The electric wiring consisted of 3 # 10? wires. I cut the electric wires,
put wire-nuts over the cut ends, and enclosed it all in a small metal
junction box. The junction box and the capped plumbing I surrounded with
a small wooden enclosure against the dry-wall.
It looks neat, but how many codes did I ignore? Thanks for any input.
Walter
Walter;
The box that you have junctioned the four (4) #10 wires in needs to have
a minimum cubic inch capacity of 10 for the four wires (each #10 wire needs
2.5 cubic inches times four (4) wires equals 10 cubic inches and if you
"throw in" one (1) extra for the wire nuts as the NEC requires (NEC calls
for one (1) for wire nuts and two (2) for any device installed inside the
box, which you did NOT do) then you should have a minimum of 12.5 for this
installation. Can't tell real well if that is a 3/0 or 4/0 box, but you need
check and verify the cu. in. that is stamped in the box!! I think it should
be OK!! If you ever want to splice additional wires and extend the circuit,
then THAT box will be too small, at that time!! The only "glaring"
violations I can see is that you have two (2) problems with the ground wire.
Number 1 is that you have the ground wire wrapped "counterclockwise" INSTEAD
of "clockwise" around the stud that you have used as a ground stud (as I see
it, you have an 8-32 or 10-32 stud coming in from the back of the box with a
hex nut and flat washer and the bare ground is "under" the flat washer wound
"counterclockwise"!! If you look at the top 12:00 (o'clock") position of the
box, just below the fastener that you used through the top hole of the box
to fasten the box to the wall, you'll see another hole just below it!! That
is the "threaded" ground hole that you can thread a "green ground screw"
through and wrap the ground wire around "CLOCKWISE" in order to "do it
right!!
Check the cubic inch capacity of the box, make the change to the ground
wire and stud AND install a blank cover on the box and you are set!!!!!
Bruce Leiby

Thank you very much for your input, Bruce.

Walter
The Happy Iconoclast www.rationality.net
-

"Richard B. (Bruce) Leiby" wrote in
message ...

"Walter R." wrote in message
...
The electric wiring consisted of 3 # 10? wires. I cut the electric
wires, put wire-nuts over the cut ends, and enclosed it all in a small
metal junction box. The junction box and the capped plumbing I
surrounded with a small wooden enclosure against the dry-wall.
It looks neat, but how many codes did I ignore? Thanks for any input.
Walter
Walter;
The box that you have junctioned the four (4) #10 wires in needs to
have a minimum cubic inch capacity of 10 for the four wires (each #10 wire
needs 2.5 cubic inches times four (4) wires equals 10 cubic inches and if
you "throw in" one (1) extra for the wire nuts as the NEC requires (NEC
calls for one (1) for wire nuts and two (2) for any device installed
inside the box, which you did NOT do) then you should have a minimum of
12.5 for this installation. Can't tell real well if that is a 3/0 or 4/0
box, but you need check and verify the cu. in. that is stamped in the
box!! I think it should be OK!! If you ever want to splice additional
wires and extend the circuit, then THAT box will be too small, at that
time!! The only "glaring" violations I can see is that you have two (2)
problems with the ground wire. Number 1 is that you have the ground wire
wrapped "counterclockwise" INSTEAD of "clockwise" around the stud that you
have used as a ground stud (as I see it, you have an 8-32 or 10-32 stud
coming in from the back of the box with a hex nut and flat washer and the
bare ground is "under" the flat washer wound "counterclockwise"!! If you
look at the top 12:00 (o'clock") position of the box, just below the
fastener that you used through the top hole of the box to fasten the box
to the wall, you'll see another hole just below it!! That is the
"threaded" ground hole that you can thread a "green ground screw" through
and wrap the ground wire around "CLOCKWISE" in order to "do it right!!
Check the cubic inch capacity of the box, make the change to the ground
wire and stud AND install a blank cover on the box and you are set!!!!!
Bruce Leiby