Lennox Model G24M3-75A-4

When selecting heat, fan comes on with heat demand and ignitors start immediately clicking. This shouldn't happen. Ignitors should wait 45 seconds before clicking. It'll keep repeating until locked out.

When ignitors start clicking when blower starting, I'll move temp down and after turning system on/off moving temp up/down several times, make that numerous times over a two hour period, the system will finally work. Meaning, fan comes on and after a 45 second delay the ignitors click and the system works.

Furnace will work normally until termostat manually set to cool. Then problem starts over again when the need to return thermostat to heat.

Other symptoms a
It'll display solid diagnostic lights indicating control board failure after a few attempts, but not at first;
set fan from auto to ON and fan doesn't work, just makes a soft clicking noise, control board will indicate board failure;
Air Conditioner works everytime when placed to cool.

What/which parts do I change first?

What is causing ignitors to click at same time as blower starting?

Why doesn't my fan work when set to ON?

Please help.

On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 04:40:53 +0000, tripntx
wrote:


Lennox Model G24M3-75A-4

When selecting heat, fan comes on with heat demand and ignitors start
immediately clicking. This shouldn't happen. Ignitors should wait 45
seconds before clicking. It'll keep repeating until locked out.

When ignitors start clicking when blower starting, I'll move temp down
and after turning system on/off moving temp up/down several times, make
that numerous times over a two hour period, the system will finally
work. Meaning, fan comes on and after a 45 second delay the ignitors
click and the system works.

Furnace will work normally until termostat manually set to cool. Then
problem starts over again when the need to return thermostat to heat.

Other symptoms a
It'll display solid diagnostic lights indicating control board failure
after a few attempts, but not at first;
set fan from auto to ON and fan doesn't work, just makes a soft
clicking noise, control board will indicate board failure;
Air Conditioner works everytime when placed to cool.

What/which parts do I change first?

What is causing ignitors to click at same time as blower starting?

Why doesn't my fan work when set to ON?

Please help.

You obviously dont have a clue how the system works. Thats ok. You
shouldnt. Thats why there are repair techs take care of it. No one can
diagnose it over the net. Get it looked at by a qualified technician.
You'll most likely save a lot of money in the long run.
OR, you can just change parts until you get it right.
Note: Lennox parts are very costly compared to others and they are
almost impossible for the homeowner to purchase.
Bubba

I agree with bubba, but, first thing to check is your supply
voltage,common and ground. If you find that hot ( L1 ) to common is not
the same as ( L1 ) to ground that is your problem. Have had this
happen, Lennox is very ground criticle. Found that L1 to ground was 100
volts or less and that was the problem.

You're right. I don't have a clue as to the role individual components play. I do know, when my heat is working properly:
1. evacuation blower starts for 45 seconds
2. after 45 seconds, ignitors click once or twice and burners light
3. air handler blower comes on to distribute heated air

Currently, evacuation blower and ignitors start at time, burner doesn't light. I do not mind replaceing the most likely components, because local technicians around here will do so as there means of troubleshooting. I'm just trying to cut out paying someone else labor to sub in components until it works.

On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 15:19:41 +0000, tripntx
wrote:


You're right. I don't have a clue as to the role individual components
play. I do know, when my heat is working properly:
1. evacuation blower starts for 45 seconds
2. after 45 seconds, ignitors click once or twice and burners light
3. air handler blower comes on to distribute heated air

Currently, evacuation blower and ignitors start at time, burner doesn't
light. I do not mind replaceing the most likely components, because
local technicians around here will do so as there means of
troubleshooting. I'm just trying to cut out paying someone else labor
to sub in components until it works.

Evacuation blower? That would be an inducer motor assembly
Igniters click? Spark ignition may click. An igniter (glow coil) just
glows. Pilots burn.
Air handler blower? So what exactly do you have? An air handler or a
gas furnace? I havent seen an evacuation blower in an air handler.
Like I said, you most likely wont be ablte to get Lennox parts. They
have their own tight little network. If you do, you will pay dearly
for them.
Tell me this and Im being serious as a heart attack.
Why on this freakin earth would you pay a technician to replace parts
(or his labor) until he guesses the right one?
Now if he wants to replace them all one at a time until he gets the
correct one and then charges you for that part only plus a diagnostic
fee of some type, then that would be fair. Its a stupid way of fixing
a furnace and it involves no skill at that point but HEY, its your
dollar.
All the more reason to call a company that charges "Flate Rate
Pricing". You get quoted a service call/diagnostic fee before they
even show up. Then he can diagnosis and replace parts until his hearts
content. You are only going to pay for what it takes to fix it AND you
get the quote BEFORE it gets fixed. If he quotes you a repair too high
that you cant live with, you pay the diagnostic and show him the door.
How simple can that be?
.....and again, from your description and terminology, you really
should leave your furnace alone and let someone look at it that knows
what they are doing.
Bubba

I was broiled pretty good a few years ago over in alt.hvac.... and in
that time, managed to find two HVAC techs in that forum I respected.
One was Bubba, the other was Paul.

Tripntx - as an owner of a Lennox furnace, I'm BEGGING you to take
Bubba's advice. Mine is a G27M, and has gone out EVERY fall since I
bought it 4 or 5 years ago.

EVERY part has been replaced... and I MEAN EVERY PART, each visit done
by a Lennox tech. I'm not making this up....... the ONLY original part
left on the furnace is the frame, and I expect it will probably fail
too.

Out of the 12 or so techs that have visited my house - I'd say 2 were
competent. The rest were parts changers.

My point is that Lennox makes CRAP, and the companies that service them
can't even really keep up with the crap level.

Call a service tech, and WATCH THEM. Don't be a dick, but be aware of
what they are doing. You'll know pretty quickly if you got a good tech
or not.

Even if you get a "parts changer".... so what - just keep track of what
they do, and you'll know what you should be charged for.

By swapping parts yourself, you are simply setting yourself up to make
the situation much worse. I can virtually GUARANTEE that you will swap
the wrong part, and as Lennox makes such CRAP it's likely you will
break something else in the process. This isn't a slam against you -
it's just that not even Lennox repair parts are fully swappable..... on
the third installation of a new control board, they finally put in some
sort of "upgraded" model. This WAS NOT a swap out situation - wires
were cut from connectors and routed to other boards, new connectors
were installed on other wires... etc.

Take Bubbas' advice man - DO NOT attempt to repair something that can
kill you and your family in your sleep.

On 15 Dec 2004 13:04:29 -0800, "Matt" wrote:

I was broiled pretty good a few years ago over in alt.hvac.... and in
that time, managed to find two HVAC techs in that forum I respected.
One was Bubba, the other was Paul.

Tripntx - as an owner of a Lennox furnace, I'm BEGGING you to take
Bubba's advice. Mine is a G27M, and has gone out EVERY fall since I
bought it 4 or 5 years ago.

EVERY part has been replaced... and I MEAN EVERY PART, each visit done
by a Lennox tech. I'm not making this up....... the ONLY original part
left on the furnace is the frame, and I expect it will probably fail
too.

Out of the 12 or so techs that have visited my house - I'd say 2 were
competent. The rest were parts changers.

My point is that Lennox makes CRAP, and the companies that service them
can't even really keep up with the crap level.

Call a service tech, and WATCH THEM. Don't be a dick, but be aware of
what they are doing. You'll know pretty quickly if you got a good tech
or not.

Even if you get a "parts changer".... so what - just keep track of what
they do, and you'll know what you should be charged for.

By swapping parts yourself, you are simply setting yourself up to make
the situation much worse. I can virtually GUARANTEE that you will swap
the wrong part, and as Lennox makes such CRAP it's likely you will
break something else in the process. This isn't a slam against you -
it's just that not even Lennox repair parts are fully swappable..... on
the third installation of a new control board, they finally put in some
sort of "upgraded" model. This WAS NOT a swap out situation - wires
were cut from connectors and routed to other boards, new connectors
were installed on other wires... etc.

Take Bubbas' advice man - DO NOT attempt to repair something that can
kill you and your family in your sleep.

Damn Matt. You cant be a real human. You seem to have a working
thinking brain. hehe. Just kiddin. Its meant to be funny. Your advice
is right on too. Lots of hvac companies and customers are afraid of
flat rate pricing but where else do you buy anything on time and
material? Do you pay for your hair cut on time and material? How about
that new car or truck? Does that menu at McDonalds tell you how much
your food bill will be before you eat it? Why would anyone want a tech
to come in and pay them on a time and material basis?
Yes I can be a grumpy old ******* when I want to be. So is Paul but I
know my **** the same as he does. Sometimes its just frustrating
watching customers ****ing away money and risking lives to save a
dollar.
By the way, all the equipment out there is crap due to increasing
competition and costs. You just have to find that Great Installer.
Bubba

hehehe yeah man, I know. I work at a plumbing shop...... the struggle
of the right pricing paradigm is never ending. Flat rate pricing is
good in some situations, not in others.... hell, you know all the
pros/cons.

Me, as a customer, I don't give a rats ass either way. I expect the
service company to make a reasonable profit, and in return I expect a
job done right.

If it wasn't done right, I expect an explanation as to why - and not
some excuse. As you said, I'm human (I think I am anyway), and I know
things don't always work out the way they were planned. But I have a
very sensitive bull**** detector, and the only thing that sends me
through the roof more than a job poorly done is - a job poorly done
followed by a lie. It would be SO refreshing to have a tech come in, or
get a call from the company - I'm sorry sir, WE SCREWED UP. Those 3
words would pacify me completely - provided of course they aren't
repeated indefinatly!

In the case of my Lennox, I came out on top because I held them
accountable, and refused to pay for ANY repair. I didn't have an
extended warranty, but given the ongoing nature of my problems with it,
didn't feel I needed one. In the end, I'm covered - I didn't **** with
it. On the other hand, the company that did **** with it got their feet
held to the fire, which is as it should be, IMO. Any further problems
with it are their problem, not mine, and I have the documentation to
back it up.

[Note to tripntx: If you swap parts on this thing yourself - not only
are you the one who has to pay for the part if it was the wrong one
(and no, they don't take returns; assuming you could get someone to
sell you the parts in the first place) - but you will be VERY hard
pressed to find a company that will even come near your furnace again.
And trust me, one look and they will KNOW you ****ed with it. Even if
they agree to fix it, you are now going to pay about double what you
originally would have if you would have just called them in the first
place. Technicians have a special place in thier heart for "homeowner
repaired" situations.]

Agree with the frustration of watching customers **** away their money
- but on the flipside, look at it from a customer point of view. I
spend top dollar, smile and nod at all the BS the salesman gives me,
don't haggle one bit on price ..... what do I get? 3 teenagers on the
initial install.... open splices in the power feeding the furnace (no
joke - open splice with wire nuts hanging in the air. Kid tells me -
oh, that won't ever hurt anything. I almost **** right there). So
already, I feel like I got screwed. This of course followed up in the
first summer by a leak in the coolant lines, subsequently followed by a
heating failure every winter.

Im rambling and venting...... I just wish that people would have a bit
more pride in their work......

Ah well.

Merry Christmas!

On 15 Dec 2004 14:03:33 -0800, "Matt" wrote:

hehehe yeah man, I know. I work at a plumbing shop...... the struggle
of the right pricing paradigm is never ending. Flat rate pricing is
good in some situations, not in others.... hell, you know all the
pros/cons.

Me, as a customer, I don't give a rats ass either way. I expect the
service company to make a reasonable profit, and in return I expect a
job done right.

If it wasn't done right, I expect an explanation as to why - and not
some excuse. As you said, I'm human (I think I am anyway), and I know
things don't always work out the way they were planned. But I have a
very sensitive bull**** detector, and the only thing that sends me
through the roof more than a job poorly done is - a job poorly done
followed by a lie. It would be SO refreshing to have a tech come in, or
get a call from the company - I'm sorry sir, WE SCREWED UP. Those 3
words would pacify me completely - provided of course they aren't
repeated indefinatly!

In the case of my Lennox, I came out on top because I held them
accountable, and refused to pay for ANY repair. I didn't have an
extended warranty, but given the ongoing nature of my problems with it,
didn't feel I needed one. In the end, I'm covered - I didn't **** with
it. On the other hand, the company that did **** with it got their feet
held to the fire, which is as it should be, IMO. Any further problems
with it are their problem, not mine, and I have the documentation to
back it up.

[Note to tripntx: If you swap parts on this thing yourself - not only
are you the one who has to pay for the part if it was the wrong one
(and no, they don't take returns; assuming you could get someone to
sell you the parts in the first place) - but you will be VERY hard
pressed to find a company that will even come near your furnace again.
And trust me, one look and they will KNOW you ****ed with it. Even if
they agree to fix it, you are now going to pay about double what you
originally would have if you would have just called them in the first
place. Technicians have a special place in thier heart for "homeowner
repaired" situations.]

Agree with the frustration of watching customers **** away their money
- but on the flipside, look at it from a customer point of view. I
spend top dollar, smile and nod at all the BS the salesman gives me,
don't haggle one bit on price ..... what do I get? 3 teenagers on the
initial install.... open splices in the power feeding the furnace (no
joke - open splice with wire nuts hanging in the air. Kid tells me -
oh, that won't ever hurt anything. I almost **** right there). So
already, I feel like I got screwed. This of course followed up in the
first summer by a leak in the coolant lines, subsequently followed by a
heating failure every winter.

Im rambling and venting...... I just wish that people would have a bit
more pride in their work......

Ah well.

Merry Christmas!

I understand totally. I did a short stint with a company that sent us
out as "hired hitmen". Salesmen in techs clothes. Then when it sold
the "kids" went out and installed it. Id be back there that night
fixing their screw ups. They got paid by the install so they were in
and out in nothing flat. It really wore thin after a while.
I still like the flat rate most. "Here is your price. You like it
great. You dont like it, you tell me to leave". No suprises (in theory
anyways) The pricing has to be followed by the book or its just a
glorified time and material book. It does work but Ive seen it futzed
up too.
Unfortunately, the customer has the burden of finding the good tech.
Its a pain but even a little bit of research goes a long way. Friends,
family and co workers can help tremendously. Even call the warehouse
and ask who they would have to come out and fix their unit.
Looking through the yellow pages on a saturday evening because you are
freezing is NOT the time to find a hvac company.
Merry Christmas
Bubba

Yep.

Where I made the mistake was I didn't check the company out.... it has
been in business since I was a kid, I'd seen their ads for years, and
unfortunatly, made the wrong assumption that they were therefore
reputable.

They must have been at one time, else I don't think they would still be
around..... but they turned to **** at some point and I missed it.

Thanks to everyone who replied.

Evacuation blower? That would be an inducer motor assembly.
Thanks for providing proper name.

Igniters click? Spark ignition may click. An igniter (glow coil) just
glows. Pilots burn.
I do not have a constantly burning pilot, maybe I'm hearing contacts within a switch causing the clicking sound.

Air handler blower? So what exactly do you have? An air handler or a
gas furnace? I havent seen an evacuation blower in an air handler.
The fan which pushes both heated & cooled air through the ducting is housed within the same horizontal case as the furnace. One end is connected to the return filter box. Other end is connected to evaporator coils and then to ducting for ceiling vents.

Tell me this and Im being serious as a heart attack.
Why on this freakin earth would you pay a technician to replace parts
(or his labor) until he guesses the right one?
We're busy at work. Leaving home at 0500 and returning home at 1930 hrs. That leaves only Saturday or Sunday to have a Tech at the house, which they charge dearly for after hour support. Unfortunetly, I can't take leave for a couple of weeks, other than Federal Holiday's. So, my wife would be there during business hours but wouldn't enter the garage with him. I wouldn't have a clue as to his troubleshooting steps.

The first summer after buying our home, the fan went out. Comp came on, then shut off because the fan wasn't working. Called Lennox dealer who installed system, told it would be 2 days wait, TX coast was 95% humidity and temp was over 96. I crawled in the attic, opened up the case, studied the wiring, bypassed the capacitor and hard wired the fan, flipped pwr on, and fan didn't work, thus eliminating capacitor as problem. Removed fan, took to dealer, paid $15 handling fee (was under warranty) and they gave me a new fan, which I then installed and haven't had a problem with it since.

Two summers ago, Comp wouldn't work, but inside fan would work in ON position. I open the side panel, decided to remove the relay contact assembly (blk plastic with numerous contacts), took it to a local electrical supply warehouse, matched it, paid approximately $6, installed it, system worked.

Last summer, Comp wouldn't work properly, removed a time delay assembly (mounted near relay contacts), took it electrical warehouse, paid approximately $20, installed it, and the system worked again. I can't remember what I set the time delay at, but it was in seconds.

Every spring I house out my comp coils, and then have the dealer visit to connect gauges and inspect/service system.

I repair fighter aircraft electrical systems for Uncle Sam. I'm scared off household electrical measurements because I only deal with 22 gauge wires carring DC. But, principals of using a multimeter to check resistance, amps, and volts are very similur.

Thanks for the advise, I'll attempt to take leave early one afternoon and schedule an appointment with a Tech.

Spent the last couple of evenings searching internet for replacement parts, which helped me identify the parts on my G24M furnace. I also found my circuit/control board has the updated 6K07 control board. Read through my Lennox G24M Installation Instructions and User's Information Manual to obtain a better understanding of the system and components. Local dealer was willing to sell me a new control board for $260 and I found them for $252 and $258 on the net. Decided to wait until I could spend more time troubleshooting the system.

Finally had time today to troubleshoot my system. Removed panel, wife switched thermostat to "heat" and I found out a lot.
1. induction blower was working properly (thanks to Bubba I know it's name)
2. almost immediately the clicking started (nothing should happen for the first 45 seconds, except for the pressure switch to send power to board ignition control, when board ignition control receives power signal from pressure switch it starts a 45 second delay, at the end of delay the board ignition control will send power to spark ignitor and gas valve solenoid)
3. clicking wasn't spark ignitors, but was the gas valve solenoid, gas valve shouldn't receive power for 45 seconds
4. turned off all power, turned gas valve manual control knob to off, removed ignitor/sensor/tube assembly to confirm ignitor type, it has two prongs at one end (spark ignition) and one prong at other end (flame sensor?)
5. reinstalled ignitor/sensor/tube assembly and turned gas knob on
6. turned power back "on" and called for "heat" again, gas valve started clicking again within 2 seconds after blower started
7. removed vacuum hose from blower and clicking stopped, which proved diaphragm pressure switch was working (considered turning off power and ohming through switch while manualy applying vac/press into tube but decided my wife would think I was nuts)
8. reconnected vacuum hose to blower, diaphragm pressure switch sent power to control board ignition control circuit, which sent power to gas valve again without waiting the required 45 seconds
9. realized something within the control board ignition control circuit wasn't working properly, turned off power and gas valve
10. searched numerous forums looking for G24M and 65K07 information
11. one mentioned replacing or cutting off black cover from the gas control relay and cleaning the contacts, which is on the control board next to the 15 pin connector
12. another one mentioned checking ground wire connections
13. I decided to remove and reseat all plugs and wire connectors on board
14. I then tilted board away from top two plastic retainers and inspected the back of it for burnt/black spots
15. Lastly I "lightly" tapped on board relays
16. turned power and gas knob "on"
17. called for heat, induction blower started, approximately 45 seconds later the gas valve opened and spark ignitor lit
18. selected cool, compressor came on and a/c worked
19. selected heat, furnace worked
20. selected off and selected fan "on", fan worked
21. selected heat and continued to play with thermostat settings to turn off need for heat and then to call for heat
22. furnance continued to work

Hopefully my system will continue to work. Considering the low cost of some replacement parts, I've decided it would be wise to keep some on hand. I'm planning to order the following:
Furnace - flame rollout sw, primary and secondary switchs, pressure sw, blower motor capacitor
Compressor - comp time delay 1 minute, 24v double pole 30 amp relay, capacitors 35W comp and 5W fan 440V

Thanks for all y'alls help with fixing my system,
tripntx

On Sat, 18 Dec 2004 21:11:02 +0000, tripntx
wrote:


Spent the last couple of evenings searching internet for replacement
parts, which helped me identify the parts on my G24M furnace. I also
found my circuit/control board has the updated 6K07 control board. Read
through my Lennox G24M Installation Instructions and User's Information
Manual to obtain a better understanding of the system and components.
Local dealer was willing to sell me a new control board for $260 and I
found them for $252 and $258 on the net. Decided to wait until I could
spend more time troubleshooting the system.

Finally had time today to troubleshoot my system. Removed panel, wife
switched thermostat to "heat" and I found out a lot.
1. induction blower was working properly (thanks to Bubba I know it's
name)
2. almost immediately the clicking started (nothing should happen for
the first 45 seconds, except for the pressure switch to send power to
board ignition control, when board ignition control receives power
signal from pressure switch it starts a 45 second delay, at the end of
delay the board ignition control will send power to spark ignitor and
gas valve solenoid)
3. clicking wasn't spark ignitors, but was the gas valve solenoid, gas
valve shouldn't receive power for 45 seconds
4. turned off all power, turned gas valve manual control knob to off,
removed ignitor/sensor/tube assembly to confirm ignitor type, it has
two prongs at one end (spark ignition) and one prong at other end
(flame sensor?)
5. reinstalled ignitor/sensor/tube assembly and turned gas knob on
6. turned power back "on" and called for "heat" again, gas valve
started clicking again within 2 seconds after blower started
7. removed vacuum hose from blower and clicking stopped, which proved
diaphragm pressure switch was working (considered turning off power and
ohming through switch while manualy applying vac/press into tube but
decided my wife would think I was nuts)
8. reconnected vacuum hose to blower, diaphragm pressure switch sent
power to control board ignition control circuit, which sent power to
gas valve again without waiting the required 45 seconds
9. realized something within the control board ignition control circuit
wasn't working properly, turned off power and gas valve
10. searched numerous forums looking for G24M and 65K07 information
11. one mentioned replacing or cutting off black cover from the gas
control relay and cleaning the contacts, which is on the control board
next to the 15 pin connector
12. another one mentioned checking ground wire connections
13. I decided to remove and reseat all plugs and wire connectors on
board
14. I then tilted board away from top two plastic retainers and
inspected the back of it for burnt/black spots
15. Lastly I "lightly" tapped on board relays
16. turned power and gas knob "on"
17. called for heat, induction blower started, approximately 45 seconds
later the gas valve opened and spark ignitor lit
18. selected cool, compressor came on and a/c worked
19. selected heat, furnace worked
20. selected off and selected fan "on", fan worked
21. selected heat and continued to play with thermostat settings to
turn off need for heat and then to call for heat
22. furnance continued to work

Hopefully my system will continue to work. Considering the low cost of
some replacement parts, I've decided it would be wise to keep some on
hand. I'm planning to order the following:
Furnace - flame rollout sw, primary and secondary switchs, pressure sw,
blower motor capacitor
Compressor - comp time delay 1 minute, 24v double pole 30 amp relay,
capacitors 35W comp and 5W fan 440V

Thanks for all y'alls help with fixing my system,
tripntx

Not to burst your bubble or anything but you've done nothing to
identify the problem and nothing to fix the furnace. You furnace WILL
stop working again and it WILL stop working at a most unlikely time.
Now that it is working, you might want to reflect on this time to do
your research and find a good, competent fair hvac company. Otherwise,
just get "one of everything" on your furnace and start changing parts
till your hearts content.
Bubba

So which part would you believe is causing the problem?

On Sun, 19 Dec 2004 05:43:28 +0000, tripntx
wrote:


So which part would you believe is causing the problem?

The one that is failing but not completly failed yet.
Its the one that will let you know on Christmas day or New Years Eve.
You know, the one where you will have to call out a real technician.
The Tech that will wind up charging you 3 arms and 2 legs for the job
because you keep screwing with it. Then you will complain wildly that
it was such a rip off because you paid a small fortune for the repair.
We dont work for free on holidays, you know. Its also not free to have
the wholesaler open up that day to get the part we need. They dont
want to come out either so they are going to get their big piece of
the pie too.
To answer your question. I dont know. I dont do free repairs over the
Internet. I also wont accept liability unless Im being paid. Now if
you want to Pay Pal me $89 + $75 for 1/2 hr I'll be glad to get you
set straight.
Bubba

Bubba wrote:
On Sun, 19 Dec 2004 05:43:28 +0000, tripntx
wrote:


So which part would you believe is causing the problem?

The one that is failing but not completly failed yet.
Its the one that will let you know on Christmas day or New Years Eve.
You know, the one where you will have to call out a real technician.
The Tech that will wind up charging you 3 arms and 2 legs for the job
because you keep screwing with it. Then you will complain wildly that
it was such a rip off because you paid a small fortune for the repair.
We dont work for free on holidays, you know. Its also not free to have
the wholesaler open up that day to get the part we need. They dont
want to come out either so they are going to get their big piece of
the pie too.
To answer your question. I dont know. I dont do free repairs over the
Internet. I also wont accept liability unless Im being paid. Now if
you want to Pay Pal me $89 + $75 for 1/2 hr I'll be glad to get you
set straight.
Bubba

Bubba, you're just so freaking helpful, aren't you? You need theropy.
Why don't you watch Dr. Phil instead of Oprah. You'll feel much better.

On Sun, 19 Dec 2004 08:42:36 -0500, "Bell"
wrote:

Bubba wrote:
On Sun, 19 Dec 2004 05:43:28 +0000, tripntx
wrote:


So which part would you believe is causing the problem?

The one that is failing but not completly failed yet.
Its the one that will let you know on Christmas day or New Years Eve.
You know, the one where you will have to call out a real technician.
The Tech that will wind up charging you 3 arms and 2 legs for the job
because you keep screwing with it. Then you will complain wildly that
it was such a rip off because you paid a small fortune for the repair.
We dont work for free on holidays, you know. Its also not free to have
the wholesaler open up that day to get the part we need. They dont
want to come out either so they are going to get their big piece of
the pie too.
To answer your question. I dont know. I dont do free repairs over the
Internet. I also wont accept liability unless Im being paid. Now if
you want to Pay Pal me $89 + $75 for 1/2 hr I'll be glad to get you
set straight.
Bubba

Bubba, you're just so freaking helpful, aren't you? You need theropy.
Why don't you watch Dr. Phil instead of Oprah. You'll feel much better.


OH my! Looks like "bellboy" is off his meds today. Have you been
charged $85 from a service man because you were too stupid to know to
change your own filter too?
Bubba

Can somebody please tell me which component is "the one that is failing but not completly failed yet"?

Which component will allow power to be sent to the gas valve to soon?
It seems simple, control board, but I would hate to spend $250 for the component only to find out another component was causing the problem. Yes Bubba, I know, that's what techinicians are for.

Since it's working at the moment, I can't troubleshoot with a multimeter. So which is the most likely culprit?

BTW, what is wrong with keeping inexpensive parts, such relays and capacitors around? System stops working, install the most likely component, and then call for service if it is still messed up. Compressor fan slows, change the capacitor, blower fan quites, change the capacitor, it's just too easy and cheap not to do so.

Bubba, If a light bulb goes out, do you change it first or call an electrician? If your faucet starts leaking, do replace cartridge and orings or do call a plumber? If you want a new plant in your yard, do you call a landscape company or do you plant it yourself? If your computer locks up, do you call Microsoft to come fix it, or do you press control alt delete? If your DVD drive quits after warranty, do you send your computer back to have it replaced by manufacture, or do you order a new drive on the net and install it yourself? If your check engine light turns on, do take your vehicle to the dealer or do you drive to the nearest autoparts store where they will connect a scanner which tells you the fault? If a squealing sound starts radiating from under your hood, do you replace the belt and check pulleys/bearings, or have a tow truck delivery your vehicle to the dealer?

On Sun, 19 Dec 2004 18:06:26 +0000, tripntx
wrote:


Can somebody please tell me which component is "the one that is failing
but not completly failed yet"?

Which component will allow power to be sent to the gas valve to soon?
It seems simple, control board, but I would hate to spend $250 for the
component only to find out another component was causing the problem.
Yes Bubba, I know, that's what techinicians are for.

Since it's working at the moment, I can't troubleshoot with a
multimeter. So which is the most likely culprit?

BTW, what is wrong with keeping inexpensive parts, such relays and
capacitors around? System stops working, install the most likely
component, and then call for service if it is still messed up.
Compressor fan slows, change the capacitor, blower fan quites, change
the capacitor, it's just too easy and cheap not to do so.

Bubba, If a light bulb goes out, do you change it first or call an
electrician? If your faucet starts leaking, do replace cartridge and
orings or do call a plumber? If you want a new plant in your yard, do
you call a landscape company or do you plant it yourself? If your
computer locks up, do you call Microsoft to come fix it, or do you
press control alt delete? If your DVD drive quits after warranty, do
you send your computer back to have it replaced by manufacture, or do
you order a new drive on the net and install it yourself? If your check
engine light turns on, do take your vehicle to the dealer or do you
drive to the nearest autoparts store where they will connect a scanner
which tells you the fault? If a squealing sound starts radiating from
under your hood, do you replace the belt and check pulleys/bearings, or
have a tow truck delivery your vehicle to the dealer?

tripntx,
Your missing the whole point. NO, NO ONE can tell you over the
internet proof positive what part to change without being there,
testing it and telling you which one it is. Especially when it is an
intermittent problem.
Secondly, if you want to keep what you think are inexpensive parts on
hand and change them out yourself, then by all means, knock yourself
out. You see, your delema is, "Do I change that expensive board or do
I not?" If its so damn easy, then you should be able to figure it out.
However, when we do it, we have to know. Thats why a service company
gets paid well for what they do. Because they are paid to know. If you
find a company that doesnt, then thats your problem. Finding the
cheapest hack aint the way to do it.
So you see, it boils down to this:
Right now, when its about 12 degrees outside this evening, my home is
very warm and comfortable.
Yours however probably wont be in the near future because you are
****ing around thinking you are saving yourself some money by dicking
with it yourself.
Wanna hear the call I just got an hour ago? Guy with no heat. I was
about 5 mins late getting back to him so he called the "Big Boys".
They wanted $160 just to show up. The service tech told him over the
phone that it was his motor and that he would have to change it. Damn,
thats a pretty good diagnosis over the phone for a motor that is
running just fine. I didnt have the heart to tell him that it was just
a wire or sequencer burning on his electric furnace. He told me he was
sorry that he didnt get me in time and that he would rather give me
the money because he knew I was honest. I told him, "hey, you gotta do
what you gotta do". Now, how much you want to bet that after this guy
rakes him over the coals, that I get a call to go there tomorrow?
So in plain English, Change whatever part/s that you want. Start at
the cheapest and work your way up or throw darts at a board and pick
which part you want. Pay to get it fixed right before you wind up
freezing your ass off or roll the dice and play your game.
Bubba
(sure is warm here)

Not bad job at all... So are you thinking about relays going bad on
the board?

Within 24 hours, the furnace acted up again. Picked up a control board on Monday from local dealer, last one they had, which was priced at $225. They said board prices had gone up, and the future replacements would be higher.

Took me an hour to replace the board which included time reading and rereading the installation instructions, although technicians such as Bubba should be able to do it in 15 minutes. I took it slow and triple checked all wires according to Ignition Control Replacement Kit Instructions and Figure 4. Be sure to write wire colors on the diagram, such as ACB COOL blue, ACB LOW yellow, and ACB HEAT red, and do not forget the six wires which connect to the five screw posts. When mounted with P20 Plug at bottom left, five screw post wires from top to bottom: white; yellow and red; white; blue; red.

Before heading into the attic, I sat on the couch and read the installation instructions. Box included replacement wires and plugs, so I connected plug J20, black wires from plug P166, ignitor, black wire between transformer and 120VAC TX, yellow wire between transformer and 24VAC RTN, and green/yellow wire to ground. This made installation rather simple.

Removed board is marked: Heatcraft EGC-1 REV C1, which had two distance posts between it and bracket.

Replacement board: Noval Systems EGC REV D, which had six distance posts between it and bracket.

Last point for newbies such as I: Board came with new mounting bracket which is quarter of an inch wider and required two mounting screws to be coverd on panel and two new ones to be drilled.