When a new receiver was put under my 1HP oiled job the shop owner
commented it's last longer than either one of us. Noise is the
biggest complaint on oilless.

On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 17:55:47 GMT, "JOHN D"
wrote:

My Sears Craftsman compressor is 30 years old and the tank has some pinholes
and is no longer safe.
It has a real 220 volt honest 2HP motor with a belt driven 2 cylinder cast
iron pump and a 20 gal tank. It's rated 8.3 cfm@ 40 psi and 7 cfm @ 90 psi.
I can get a new tank for about $140. Should I fix it or buy one of those new
peak HP rated, aluminum, oilless compressors they sell now?
I suspect that my old one, with a new tank, will still outlast the new ones.
John

My Sears Craftsman compressor is 30 years old and the tank has some pinholes
and is no longer safe.
It has a real 220 volt honest 2HP motor with a belt driven 2 cylinder cast
iron pump and a 20 gal tank. It's rated 8.3 cfm@ 40 psi and 7 cfm @ 90 psi.
I can get a new tank for about $140. Should I fix it or buy one of those new
peak HP rated, aluminum, oilless compressors they sell now?
I suspect that my old one, with a new tank, will still outlast the new ones.
John

Yup and be quieter too.

"JOHN D" wrote in message
news_dbd.18$_%5.13@trnddc07...
My Sears Craftsman compressor is 30 years old and the tank has some
pinholes
and is no longer safe.
It has a real 220 volt honest 2HP motor with a belt driven 2 cylinder cast
iron pump and a 20 gal tank. It's rated 8.3 cfm@ 40 psi and 7 cfm @ 90
psi.
I can get a new tank for about $140. Should I fix it or buy one of those
new
peak HP rated, aluminum, oilless compressors they sell now?
I suspect that my old one, with a new tank, will still outlast the new
ones.
John

I'd fix it. For $150 to $200 you get half the CFM and a lot more noise.

"JOHN D" wrote in message
news_dbd.18$_%5.13@trnddc07...

I can get a new tank for about $140. Should I fix it or buy one of those
new
peak HP rated, aluminum, oilless compressors they sell now?

Ive had nothing but problems with the sears oil-less compressors, from
stress cracking of the compressor mounting platform on top the tank, to the
cooling fans repeatedly exploding to cracked and broken piston rods and
damaged cylinder linings and the list just goes on and on........

Suggest avoid these at all costs--now you all been forwarned.

--

SVL

JOHN D wrote:

My Sears Craftsman compressor is 30 years old and the tank has some pinholes
and is no longer safe.
It has a real 220 volt honest 2HP motor with a belt driven 2 cylinder cast
iron pump and a 20 gal tank. It's rated 8.3 cfm@ 40 psi and 7 cfm @ 90 psi.
I can get a new tank for about $140. Should I fix it or buy one of those new
peak HP rated, aluminum, oilless compressors they sell now?
I suspect that my old one, with a new tank, will still outlast the new ones.
John


Hi,
By all means get a new tank. They don't build them like them old ones
any more. You got a good motor and pump, why not?
Tony

PrecisionMachinisT wrote:

"JOHN D" wrote in message
news_dbd.18$_%5.13@trnddc07...


I can get a new tank for about $140. Should I fix it or buy one of those

new

peak HP rated, aluminum, oilless compressors they sell now?


Ive had nothing but problems with the sears oil-less compressors, from
stress cracking of the compressor mounting platform on top the tank, to the
cooling fans repeatedly exploding to cracked and broken piston rods and
damaged cylinder linings and the list just goes on and on........

Suggest avoid these at all costs--now you all been forwarned.

--

SVL


Hi,
Oilless ones are joke no matter who made it.
I quickly realized after getting one on sale and sold it
to a guy who was happy to get it off my hands.
And then bought an old belt driven real deal. Happy now.
Tony

JOHN D wrote:
My Sears Craftsman compressor is 30 years old and the tank has some pinholes
and is no longer safe.
It has a real 220 volt honest 2HP motor with a belt driven 2 cylinder cast
iron pump and a 20 gal tank. It's rated 8.3 cfm@ 40 psi and 7 cfm @ 90 psi.
I can get a new tank for about $140. Should I fix it or buy one of those new
peak HP rated, aluminum, oilless compressors they sell now?
I suspect that my old one, with a new tank, will still outlast the new ones.
John




I would be tempted to adapt a 40 pound LP gas tank for an air tank. The
problem would be fitting a drain valve without weakening the tank.

If you buy a new compressor, get a belt-driven oil-lubricated one with
as slow-turning a pump as you can find, and discount all the CFM and HP
ratings by 50%.

I really wish someone would make a reasonably priced small 2-stage
compressor, with an honest 3 HP motor and a 20 or 30 gallon tank.

Bob

Ive had nothing but problems with the sears oil-less compressors, from
stress cracking of the compressor mounting platform on top the tank, to the
cooling fans repeatedly exploding to cracked and broken piston rods and
damaged cylinder linings and the list just goes on and on........

Suggest avoid these at all costs--now you all been forwarned.

If I'm shopping for a used compressor how do I tell if it is an
oil-less one other than noting the noise (which I don't know how it
would compare to oil compressor)?



John Keith

"John Keith" wrote in message
...
Ive had nothing but problems with the sears oil-less compressors, from
stress cracking of the compressor mounting platform on top the tank, to
the
cooling fans repeatedly exploding to cracked and broken piston rods and
damaged cylinder linings and the list just goes on and on........

Suggest avoid these at all costs--now you all been forwarned.

If I'm shopping for a used compressor how do I tell if it is an
oil-less one other than noting the noise (which I don't know how it
would compare to oil compressor)?


Look for an oil filler and drain plugs or dipstick--this is all basically
the same as lubricating the crank case and sealing the piston rings in your
car engine.

Usually, but not always, an oil-less units sales literature will tout
"oil-less" as though its some kind of a BIG advantage, and so its more than
likely gonna be mentioned in the items basic specifications.

Now for a small unit and with hobby use, the oil-less units might have one
possible advantage in that the air will have absolutely no oil in
it.....maybe an advantage for some painting tasks like airbrush and the
likes.

--

SVL

Splash lub compressors oughta have a drain plug to drain and change the oil.
Also some better ones have a sight glass so you can see the oil.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"John Keith" wrote in message
...


If I'm shopping for a used compressor how do I tell if it is an
oil-less one other than noting the noise (which I don't know how it
would compare to oil compressor)?



John Keith