I don't have an air compressor yet, I know nothing about them, and
don't know anyone in person that owns one, but I was thinking about
getting one for running an impact wrench, air ratchet wrenches, and
occasional painting.

After some Google searches, I came across a few threads about air
compressor tanks exploding. It was sometimes caused by corrosion,
sometimes a bad relief valve, or bad pressure switch, or any
combination of the 3. I've also read that bad welds, a weak tank, or
other problems can contribute to a potentially fatal explosion.

I was originally going to buy the Harbor Freight 47065 "4-1/2 HP"
vertical compressor for about $150. It's oil lubed, so I thought it
would be a much better (and cheaper) alternative than picking up a
cheap oil-free compressor from Wal-mart. This would be for light
occasional use anyway, so I'm not too concerned about full cast iron
pumps or belt drive. My other alternative is to drop $400 on an oil
lubed Craftsman or Campbell-Hausfeld.

However, we all know Harbor Freight products are Made In China which
is not a country known for making high-quality products. If I buy a
cheap Chinese compressor, do I risk poor welds on the tank? A weak
tank made with poor grade iron? A pressure relief or pressure switch
that's likely to fail? If I'm risking my life by going cheap, I'd
definitely spend the extra money. If the HF compressor is perfectly
safe, then I'd rather buy it and save the money. Anyone have
experience with the HF compressor? I know compressor tank explosions
are few and far between, but I'm a very safety-oriented person.

Also, a quick question about compressors - when the compressor is not
being used, do most people leave the tank pressurized at all times and
the compressor plugged in, or do most people unplug them and bleed the
pressure out of the tank?

Thanks,

Shawn

I wouldn't worry about explosions. I imagine it could happen, but a tank
would have to be very weak in order for it to happen catastrophically.
These tanks aren't pressurized to 3000PSI like a SCUBA tank. It seems much
more likely that you'd just have a leak. I had a blow off valve go out once
and nothing drastic happened; just a very loud whistling sound as 150PSI
bled down (though it scared the hell out of me...).

I've had cheap and expensive compressors and tanks (one that I've had for
twenty years) and they're fine. Just put a dehumidifier inline if you can
to keep the water out of the tank and tools and/or drain the tank
periodically and you'll be fine.

Regards,

Peter


"Shawn Lin" wrote in message
om...
I don't have an air compressor yet, I know nothing about them, and
don't know anyone in person that owns one, but I was thinking about
getting one for running an impact wrench, air ratchet wrenches, and
occasional painting.

After some Google searches, I came across a few threads about air
compressor tanks exploding. It was sometimes caused by corrosion,
sometimes a bad relief valve, or bad pressure switch, or any
combination of the 3. I've also read that bad welds, a weak tank, or
other problems can contribute to a potentially fatal explosion.

I was originally going to buy the Harbor Freight 47065 "4-1/2 HP"
vertical compressor for about $150. It's oil lubed, so I thought it
would be a much better (and cheaper) alternative than picking up a
cheap oil-free compressor from Wal-mart. This would be for light
occasional use anyway, so I'm not too concerned about full cast iron
pumps or belt drive. My other alternative is to drop $400 on an oil
lubed Craftsman or Campbell-Hausfeld.

However, we all know Harbor Freight products are Made In China which
is not a country known for making high-quality products. If I buy a
cheap Chinese compressor, do I risk poor welds on the tank? A weak
tank made with poor grade iron? A pressure relief or pressure switch
that's likely to fail? If I'm risking my life by going cheap, I'd
definitely spend the extra money. If the HF compressor is perfectly
safe, then I'd rather buy it and save the money. Anyone have
experience with the HF compressor? I know compressor tank explosions
are few and far between, but I'm a very safety-oriented person.

Also, a quick question about compressors - when the compressor is not
being used, do most people leave the tank pressurized at all times and
the compressor plugged in, or do most people unplug them and bleed the
pressure out of the tank?

Thanks,

Shawn

I believe all pressure vessels have to pass an ASME test in order to be
marketed. Just how this fits into the handling sequence of a machine coming
in from China, going through HF's warehouse, etc, I don't know.

On 9 Oct 2003 08:32:10 -0700, (Shawn Lin)
wrote something
.......and in reply I say!:

The tank etc quality is probably watched fairly carefully by "the
authorities". If you are worried about a tank exploding, then don't
cross the road tomorrow.

However, your "4.5 HP" is interesting at $150. Even at 220V that will
draw 15A.

Anyway, take no notice of HP. The only figure you are interested in is
the CFM @ 90-100 PSI. If you can't get hold of that figure then make
sure you can return the machine if it's not big enough. The compressor
you are talking of _should_ be able to do about 4.5 * 2.75 CFM = 12CFM
@ 90-100 PSI. Bet it can't. If it can for $150 then it's something
special.

Don't try to "just sneak in" either. Compressors have all sorts of
fudge in their figures, and so do tools. I have a "12CFM" compressor
that cannot run a "5CFM" air Random Orbital Sander! In actual fact the
compressor is about 7 CFM at 90 PSI (genuine 2.5 HP). I bought another
one like it and between them they just about run the ROS. I was told
that the ROS and like tools should use up to 20CFM comps to run hard
and continuously. The tools are often rated at a strange rating, which
should not be allowed IMO. It is based on occasional use, in a
multi-user shop "So you can add them up to get the compressor size the
shop will need"....yeah right....


Impact wrenches etc are better of course, because they are not often
run continuously. But I have one, of quite reasonable quality. IT's
good for about 450 ft-lb. If I am doing severl tough nuts, I need
either both comps running, or I have to wait often.

I don't have an air compressor yet, I know nothing about them, and
don't know anyone in person that owns one, but I was thinking about
getting one for running an impact wrench, air ratchet wrenches, and
occasional painting.

************************************************** ****************************************
Those who can, do. Those who can't, teach.
The rest sit around and make snide comments.

Nick White --- HEAD:Hertz Music
Please remove ns from my header address to reply via email
!!
")
_/ )
( )
_//- \__/

On 9 Oct 2003 08:32:10 -0700, someone who calls themselves
(Shawn Lin) wrote:

I don't have an air compressor yet, I know nothing about them, and
don't know anyone in person that owns one, but I was thinking about
getting one for running an impact wrench, air ratchet wrenches, and
occasional painting.

After some Google searches, I came across a few threads about air
compressor tanks exploding. It was sometimes caused by corrosion,
sometimes a bad relief valve, or bad pressure switch, or any
combination of the 3. I've also read that bad welds, a weak tank, or
other problems can contribute to a potentially fatal explosion.

Keep the tank drained well - every time you use it, drain it. No
water, no rust. (Well, almost.) If you like gadgets or have people
using the system that can't be bothered to drain it manually, you can
get automatic drain valves for stationary compressors that do the
draining every time the motor cycles.

And I sincerely doubt that any ASME Inspectors have been within a
thousand miles of any Harbor Fright factory... If you want the
insurance on the shop building to stay in force, you'll need a
compressor with an ASME certified tank, and the paperwork on file.

I was originally going to buy the Harbor Freight 47065 "4-1/2 HP"
vertical compressor for about $150. It's oil lubed, so I thought it
would be a much better (and cheaper) alternative than picking up a
cheap oil-free compressor from Wal-mart. This would be for light
occasional use anyway, so I'm not too concerned about full cast iron
pumps or belt drive. My other alternative is to drop $400 on an oil
lubed Craftsman or Campbell-Hausfeld.

However, we all know Harbor Freight products are Made In China which
is not a country known for making high-quality products. If I buy a
cheap Chinese compressor, do I risk poor welds on the tank? A weak
tank made with poor grade iron? A pressure relief or pressure switch
that's likely to fail? If I'm risking my life by going cheap, I'd
definitely spend the extra money. If the HF compressor is perfectly
safe, then I'd rather buy it and save the money. Anyone have
experience with the HF compressor? I know compressor tank explosions
are few and far between, but I'm a very safety-oriented person.

Consider any complex hand or power tools from Harbor Fright
(including their air compressors) to be disposable. {If} ^w strike
that... /When/ they break, getting replacement parts and service are
going to be a problem, and it'll often be cheaper to throw it away and
get another.

Although they are tempting to have around as a backup for your good
tools, or as a "beater tool" - the one that gets used when working in
a mud pit, at the edge of a cliff or on a boat on the water, where a
tool can go "oops" and disappear forever.

I have their throwaway angle grinder with the grinding wheel for
welding cleanup, and the good DeWalt with a knotted wire wheel for
prep - if the HF grinder goes belly-up on me, I can start using the
DeWalt for both and switching wheels between uses.

Use a Harbor Fright compressor for portable jobsite work where if it
gets stolen or wrecked you're not out much, and get the good
compressor for permanent install at your shop.

Also, a quick question about compressors - when the compressor is not
being used, do most people leave the tank pressurized at all times and
the compressor plugged in, or do most people unplug them and bleed the
pressure out of the tank?

Moisture drained-off but still pressurized (you've already spent for
the electricity to compress it) and turned off unless there's a reason
to leave it on, like a hose left at the driveway for filling the
bicycle and car tires.

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: If you plumb a compressor permanently in the
shop do NOT use any sort of PVC plastic pipe for the air lines. When
it breaks, it grenades, and that can be just as deadly as it sounds if
you're in the wrong place at the wrong time. Use copper pipe
(soldered or brazed), black iron or galvanized pipe, with a piece of
hose as a vibration isolator between the compressor and plumbing.

-- Bruce --
--
Bruce L. Bergman, POB 394, Woodland Hills CA 91365, USA
Electrician, Westend Electric (#726700) Agoura, CA

WARNING: UCE Spam E-mail is not welcome here. I report violators.
SpamBlock In Use - Remove the "Python" with a "net" to E-Mail.

About a year ago, I bought a US made, ASME certified compressor made by
Campbell Hausfeld and sold at Home Depot under their Husky brand. The top
weld had two holes, one of which leaked. I would suggest paying more and
getting Ingersoll Rand, Quincy, etc.

Snip
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: If you plumb a compressor permanently in the
shop do NOT use any sort of PVC plastic pipe for the air lines. When
it breaks, it grenades, and that can be just as deadly as it sounds if
you're in the wrong place at the wrong time. Use copper pipe
(soldered or brazed), black iron or galvanized pipe, with a piece of
hose as a vibration isolator between the compressor and plumbing.


There are plastic pipes designed for air use but they only go to 1/2" which
may not be large enough for a big comp. They are reliable though and the
push fittings are quick to install.

John

John Manders wrote:

Snip

do NOT use any sort of PVC plastic pipe for the air lines. When
it breaks, it grenades,

There are plastic pipes designed for air use but they only go to 1/2"
which may not be large enough for a big comp. They are reliable though and
the push fittings are quick to install.

There are larger plastic pipes that are rated for air use. They're green
plastic (I think ABS.) The fittings are glued on with a solvent cement. One
brand name is Chem-Air. They are expensive.

--
Steve

Bruce L. Bergman wrote:


And I sincerely doubt that any ASME Inspectors have been within a
thousand miles of any Harbor Fright factory...

How about UL inspectors? I don't know about HF, but I noticed that Homier's
compressors don't have UL markings on them. One of them had a little tag
warning the user to unplug it when not in use to reduce the risk of fire.

If you want the insurance on the shop building to stay in force, you'll
need a compressor with an ASME certified tank, and the paperwork on file.

A compressor in a commercial setting needs to have a permit from the state
boiler inspectors, and be re-inspected periodically. The requirements will
vary from state to state.


--
--
Steve

Bruce L. Bergman wrote in message . ..

Keep the tank drained well - every time you use it, drain it. No
water, no rust. (Well, almost.) If you like gadgets or have people
using the system that can't be bothered to drain it manually, you can
get automatic drain valves for stationary compressors that do the
draining every time the motor cycles.

Thanks for the reply! Automatic drain is a great idea! I tend to be
forgetful so this will come in handy (I know I have scared the wife
several times by accidentally leaving the soldering iron plugged in
overnight).

And I sincerely doubt that any ASME Inspectors have been within a
thousand miles of any Harbor Fright factory... If you want the
insurance on the shop building to stay in force, you'll need a
compressor with an ASME certified tank, and the paperwork on file.

Exactly my concern. There's no mention of ASME anywhere in the Harbor
Freight ad for this compressor. The $400 Sears portable compressor I
was looking at (the cheapest oil lubed portable vertical compressor
they offer) does have an ASME tank.

I was originally going to buy the Harbor Freight 47065 "4-1/2 HP"
vertical compressor for about $150. It's oil lubed, so I thought it
would be a much better (and cheaper) alternative than picking up a
cheap oil-free compressor from Wal-mart. This would be for light
occasional use anyway, so I'm not too concerned about full cast iron
pumps or belt drive. My other alternative is to drop $400 on an oil
lubed Craftsman or Campbell-Hausfeld.
[snip]

Consider any complex hand or power tools from Harbor Fright
(including their air compressors) to be disposable. {If} ^w strike
that... /When/ they break, getting replacement parts and service are
going to be a problem, and it'll often be cheaper to throw it away and
get another.

That's true, and I realize that. I just want a portable compressor
for light use for the next 3-5 years. After that, I plan to have a
new house built and a larger, higher quality compressor installed
remotely in its own room. A friend of mine is doing just that in his
house with air plumbed to both the garage and workshop, it's a pretty
slick setup.
The compressor I get now only HAS to last 3-5 years, and I'll probably
only use it a few times a year to run an impact, inflate tires, light
painting, blowing out the inground sprinkler system, etc. The real
work (like painting whole cars) can wait till I can get moved into the
new house and have a real compressor.

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: If you plumb a compressor permanently in the
shop do NOT use any sort of PVC plastic pipe for the air lines. When
it breaks, it grenades, and that can be just as deadly as it sounds if
you're in the wrong place at the wrong time. Use copper pipe
(soldered or brazed), black iron or galvanized pipe, with a piece of
hose as a vibration isolator between the compressor and plumbing.

Thanks for the warning, I read about that too.
The compressor I get now will just be a portable so it won't be
permanently plumbed. However, when I do buy a permanent compressor,
I'll use copper. That's also what my friend used, so he should be
able to give me some good pointers when I get to that point.

Thanks again,

Shawn

"AL" wrote in message news:v0shb.717495$YN5.636545@sccrnsc01...
About a year ago, I bought a US made, ASME certified compressor made by
Campbell Hausfeld and sold at Home Depot under their Husky brand. The top
weld had two holes, one of which leaked. I would suggest paying more and
getting Ingersoll Rand, Quincy, etc.

There is a very graphic reminder of the power of compressed air on
www.metalbashatorium.com/safety.htm bottom left from memory. Don't
get complacent about compressed air.

Glenn

see post in "air compressors??" thread about new "cheap" compressors.

RE exploding - not likely with corrosion - it will cause a hole and air will
escape - exploding requires a sudden release, and unless the welds are bad
or something, that won't happen.

summary of suggestion re compressors - look ONLY at CFM - for an impact
wrench where you don't run it long, the tank size is important, but for
spraying or sand blasting, etc, you need steady CFM - and 2 CFM is not
enough - you need 8 to 10 CFM minimum at 60 PSI, better to have 15 at 120 or
above
"Shawn Lin" wrote in message
om...
I don't have an air compressor yet, I know nothing about them, and
don't know anyone in person that owns one, but I was thinking about
getting one for running an impact wrench, air ratchet wrenches, and
occasional painting.

After some Google searches, I came across a few threads about air
compressor tanks exploding. It was sometimes caused by corrosion,
sometimes a bad relief valve, or bad pressure switch, or any
combination of the 3. I've also read that bad welds, a weak tank, or
other problems can contribute to a potentially fatal explosion.

I was originally going to buy the Harbor Freight 47065 "4-1/2 HP"
vertical compressor for about $150. It's oil lubed, so I thought it
would be a much better (and cheaper) alternative than picking up a
cheap oil-free compressor from Wal-mart. This would be for light
occasional use anyway, so I'm not too concerned about full cast iron
pumps or belt drive. My other alternative is to drop $400 on an oil
lubed Craftsman or Campbell-Hausfeld.

However, we all know Harbor Freight products are Made In China which
is not a country known for making high-quality products. If I buy a
cheap Chinese compressor, do I risk poor welds on the tank? A weak
tank made with poor grade iron? A pressure relief or pressure switch
that's likely to fail? If I'm risking my life by going cheap, I'd
definitely spend the extra money. If the HF compressor is perfectly
safe, then I'd rather buy it and save the money. Anyone have
experience with the HF compressor? I know compressor tank explosions
are few and far between, but I'm a very safety-oriented person.

Also, a quick question about compressors - when the compressor is not
being used, do most people leave the tank pressurized at all times and
the compressor plugged in, or do most people unplug them and bleed the
pressure out of the tank?

Thanks,

Shawn

fudge in their figures, and so do tools. I have a "12CFM" compressor
that cannot run a "5CFM" air Random Orbital Sander! In actual fact the

I bought a cheap ROS and returned it when I discovered my air compressor
could not keep up with it. I bought a better quality/more expensive ROS
and it seems to consume much less air.

cs

On 14 Oct 2003 20:53:19 GMT, (Charles A.
Sherwood) wrote something
.......and in reply I say!:

Yes. I think the "tolerances" become huge gaps in the cheaper stuff.
My main target with that post is people who are buying "on a budget".
The problem is, the ROS says 5CFM, 90 PSI, and it's complete BS.

I bought a cheap ROS and returned it when I discovered my air compressor
could not keep up with it. I bought a better quality/more expensive ROS
and it seems to consume much less air.

cs

************************************************** ****************************************
Whenever you have to prove to yourself that you are
not something, you probably are.

Nick White --- HEAD:Hertz Music
Please remove ns from my header address to reply via email
!!
")
_/ )
( )
_//- \__/

(Shawn Lin) wrote in message . com...
I don't have an air compressor yet, I know nothing about them, and
don't know anyone in person that owns one, but I was thinking about
getting one for running an impact wrench, air ratchet wrenches, and
occasional painting.

After some Google searches, I came across a few threads about air
compressor tanks exploding. It was sometimes caused by corrosion,
sometimes a bad relief valve, or bad pressure switch, or any
combination of the 3. I've also read that bad welds, a weak tank, or
other problems can contribute to a potentially fatal explosion.

I was originally going to buy the Harbor Freight 47065 "4-1/2 HP"
vertical compressor for about $150. It's oil lubed, so I thought it
would be a much better (and cheaper) alternative than picking up a
cheap oil-free compressor from Wal-mart. This would be for light
occasional use anyway, so I'm not too concerned about full cast iron
pumps or belt drive. My other alternative is to drop $400 on an oil
lubed Craftsman or Campbell-Hausfeld.

However, we all know Harbor Freight products are Made In China which
is not a country known for making high-quality products. If I buy a
cheap Chinese compressor, do I risk poor welds on the tank? A weak
tank made with poor grade iron? A pressure relief or pressure switch
that's likely to fail? If I'm risking my life by going cheap, I'd
definitely spend the extra money. If the HF compressor is perfectly
safe, then I'd rather buy it and save the money. Anyone have
experience with the HF compressor? I know compressor tank explosions
are few and far between, but I'm a very safety-oriented person.

Also, a quick question about compressors - when the compressor is not
being used, do most people leave the tank pressurized at all times and
the compressor plugged in, or do most people unplug them and bleed the
pressure out of the tank?

Thanks,

Shawn

I know nothing about the area where you are, but frequently the larger
tool retailers around here will have factory refurbs, demo models or
returns for sale at about 50% off new price. I've had a Rocket
oil-less, which is a Coleman refurb, with an 11 gal. horizontal tank
for about 7 years now, it's been worked hard and is still going
strong. It's rated at 4.5 cu/min at 90 psi, it runs everything I've
got fairly well except for the DA sander. That drains the tank in a
couple of minutes. I needed something that was portable and wouldn't
spill oil if it tipped over in the back of the car. There's some
definite limits on what it will do, but it runs off regular 120 v.
which is another plus given the rental place I'm living in. The
oil-less feature is good for spray painting, too, no possibility of
oil contamination. This area is usually dry enough that not much
water accumulates, but I regularly blow the tank down anyway. The
water trap bowl just accumulates dust, not moisture. I think it cost
in the neighborhood of $125 and I've gotten my use out of it,
spray-painted the top of the van, 4 VW fenders, trunk, hatch and two
doors, any amount of shellac on video racks. If you get one of those
small touch-up guns, the compressor can keep up. You just have to be
selective on the tools you do buy. The only other downside is the
noise, the motor runs at double the speed of a regular belt-drive
compressor and it makes a racket in an enclosed area.

Because of the noise, I shut the thing off when not in use, neighbors
wouldn't appreciate it starting up in the middle of the night...

The only leaks I've had were because the drain petcock got damaged
when the unit was moved around. About a $.79 fix, now I keep a couple
on hand and it hasn't happened again. My brother-in-law's Craftsman
has a pinhole leak, he's in a swamp in Indiana and never drains the
tank. Last time I used it, it was half full of water and we had to
wait about 45 minutes for it to drain out. It's a horizontal tank
unit, the drain petcock is placed perfectly for the shed's door sill
to nail it as it's wheeled through the door. Something to look out
for on portable units.

There's several grades of compressors. Cheapest is plated alloy
cylinders, ala chainsaw engines, the cheapy oil-less compressors have
these. Up from there is the alloy block with iron sleeves. Top of
the line is the full cast iron compressor. The lower two grades now
can come as direct drive, I've never seen a direct drive compressor
that's all cast iron and oil-lubed. Most of the popularly priced
oil-lubed compressors are alloy block with sleeves. The guy at the
local Tool King store yesterday had a Porter Cable vertical direct
drive airless that he claimed was as quiet as a belt drive, I didn't
hear it run, though. Had the alloy block with iron sleeve, about
$400. 20-something gallon tank, was wheelable. I looked at that HF
unit on sale this weekend, I passed.

Stan