On Tue, 24 Apr 2018 04:08:51 +0100, Bob wrote:

On 4/23/2018 11:18 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
One sepentine belt and tensioner -$150

Obviously you do your own repairs. Good for you but if you don't have your own shop and a decent set of tools, the economics change drastically.

Back when I used to have one of those ****ing engines that would self-destruct when the timing belt broke, the cost to replace the belt (parts and labor) was very near $900...and I could never find a competent shop to do it cheaper. And the damn belts
had to be changed every 60,000 miles.

Are you saying snapped timing belts is no longer a problem? I thought most modern engines hated a snapped belt (they're called "interference engines").

FWIW, around here car repair shops are a rip-off. Much better to have the cars under warranty so the manufacturer has to deal with their crooked dealerships repair bill.

Which is why I buy my own parts to avoid their crooked markup. Their profit should be clearly in the labour charge, not the parts.

--
If quizzes are quizzical, what are tests?

On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 18:51:57 +0100, "Jimmy Wilkinson Knife"
wrote:

On Tue, 24 Apr 2018 04:08:51 +0100, Bob wrote:

On 4/23/2018 11:18 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
One sepentine belt and tensioner -$150

Obviously you do your own repairs. Good for you but if you don't have your own shop and a decent set of tools, the economics change drastically.

Back when I used to have one of those ****ing engines that would self-destruct when the timing belt broke, the cost to replace the belt (parts and labor) was very near $900...and I could never find a competent shop to do it cheaper. And the damn belts
had to be changed every 60,000 miles.

Are you saying snapped timing belts is no longer a problem? I thought most modern engines hated a snapped belt (they're called "interference engines").

Most aren't.

FWIW, around here car repair shops are a rip-off. Much better to have the cars under warranty so the manufacturer has to deal with their crooked dealerships repair bill.

Which is why I buy my own parts to avoid their crooked markup. Their profit should be clearly in the labour charge, not the parts.

Why does it matter to you? Profit is profit. What they charge is
what they charge.

On 04/25/2018 11:51 AM, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Tue, 24 Apr 2018 04:08:51 +0100, Bob wrote:

On 4/23/2018 11:18 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
One sepentine belt and tensioner -$150

Obviously you do your own repairs. Good for you but if you don't have
your own shop and a decent set of tools, the economics change
drastically.

Back when I used to have one of those ****ing engines that would
self-destruct when the timing belt broke, the cost to replace the belt
(parts and labor) was very near $900...and I could never find a
competent shop to do it cheaper. And the damn belts
had to be changed every 60,000 miles.

Are you saying snapped timing belts is no longer a problem? I thought
most modern engines hated a snapped belt (they're called "interference
engines").

My engine doesn't have a belt.

On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 20:51:19 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 04/25/2018 11:51 AM, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Tue, 24 Apr 2018 04:08:51 +0100, Bob wrote:

On 4/23/2018 11:18 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
One sepentine belt and tensioner -$150

Obviously you do your own repairs. Good for you but if you don't have
your own shop and a decent set of tools, the economics change
drastically.

Back when I used to have one of those ****ing engines that would
self-destruct when the timing belt broke, the cost to replace the belt
(parts and labor) was very near $900...and I could never find a
competent shop to do it cheaper. And the damn belts
had to be changed every 60,000 miles.

Are you saying snapped timing belts is no longer a problem? I thought
most modern engines hated a snapped belt (they're called "interference
engines").

My engine doesn't have a belt.


More and more are going to chains again, and non-interference
engines are also becoming more common.

Chains don't last forever either - I used to change quite a few
timing chains on inline 6 and V8 engines - and LONG before 100,000
miles. Quite a few before 60,000

Mitsubishi 2600 4 cyls (used by Chrysler for years) had 0ver 6 feet
of chain in them and they were notorious for dropping the chain that
drove the balance shafts and the oil pump - letting the engine
continue to run with no oil pressure and self destruct.

On 04/25/2018 10:18 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 20:51:19 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 04/25/2018 11:51 AM, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Tue, 24 Apr 2018 04:08:51 +0100, Bob wrote:

On 4/23/2018 11:18 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
One sepentine belt and tensioner -$150

Obviously you do your own repairs. Good for you but if you don't have
your own shop and a decent set of tools, the economics change
drastically.

Back when I used to have one of those ****ing engines that would
self-destruct when the timing belt broke, the cost to replace the belt
(parts and labor) was very near $900...and I could never find a
competent shop to do it cheaper. And the damn belts
had to be changed every 60,000 miles.

Are you saying snapped timing belts is no longer a problem? I thought
most modern engines hated a snapped belt (they're called "interference
engines").

My engine doesn't have a belt.


More and more are going to chains again, and non-interference
engines are also becoming more common.

Chains don't last forever either - I used to change quite a few
timing chains on inline 6 and V8 engines - and LONG before 100,000
miles. Quite a few before 60,000

Nothing lasts forever but the operant words are 'used to'. I used to
change a lot of things on engines forty years ago.

On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 22:30:39 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 04/25/2018 10:18 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 20:51:19 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 04/25/2018 11:51 AM, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Tue, 24 Apr 2018 04:08:51 +0100, Bob wrote:

On 4/23/2018 11:18 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
One sepentine belt and tensioner -$150

Obviously you do your own repairs. Good for you but if you don't have
your own shop and a decent set of tools, the economics change
drastically.

Back when I used to have one of those ****ing engines that would
self-destruct when the timing belt broke, the cost to replace the belt
(parts and labor) was very near $900...and I could never find a
competent shop to do it cheaper. And the damn belts
had to be changed every 60,000 miles.

Are you saying snapped timing belts is no longer a problem? I thought
most modern engines hated a snapped belt (they're called "interference
engines").

My engine doesn't have a belt.


More and more are going to chains again, and non-interference
engines are also becoming more common.

Chains don't last forever either - I used to change quite a few
timing chains on inline 6 and V8 engines - and LONG before 100,000
miles. Quite a few before 60,000

Nothing lasts forever but the operant words are 'used to'. I used to
change a lot of things on engines forty years ago.

Late model Bimmer Diesels.
BMW N20 up until 2013?
2007-11 Mini Cooper
Chevy EcoTecs
Nissan Jukes.
Nissan Maxima
any VQ35 or VQ40 Nissan engine
Some Mercedes inline 6 AND V8 up into the '90s.
VW 2.0 TSI
LOTS of late model engines out there seeing timing chain and/or
tensioner problems

On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 21:36:18 -0400, , the brain-damaged,
troll-feeding cretin, blabbered again:


Why does it matter to you? Profit is profit. What they charge is
what they charge.

Do you feel less senile when you engage in silly "discussions" with an
approved congenital idiot like Peter Hucker, Yankietard? BG

On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 20:51:19 -0600, lowbrowman, yet another endlessly
driveling senile idiot, blabbered again:



My engine doesn't have a belt.

HE doesn't have any underwear ...and you obviously like that, cocksucker!
BG


--
More from Peter Hucker's, the sociopathic ******'s, sociopathic world:
"Never had this problem as I don't wear any underwear. Do you have anal
seepage? Does your penis dribble? What is underwear for? Since nobody can
see through your jeans/trousers/whatever, why do you need yet another
layer?"
Message-ID:

On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 05:18:18 +0100, Clare Snyder wrote:

On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 20:51:19 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 04/25/2018 11:51 AM, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Tue, 24 Apr 2018 04:08:51 +0100, Bob wrote:

On 4/23/2018 11:18 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
One sepentine belt and tensioner -$150

Obviously you do your own repairs. Good for you but if you don't have
your own shop and a decent set of tools, the economics change
drastically.

Back when I used to have one of those ****ing engines that would
self-destruct when the timing belt broke, the cost to replace the belt
(parts and labor) was very near $900...and I could never find a
competent shop to do it cheaper. And the damn belts
had to be changed every 60,000 miles.

Are you saying snapped timing belts is no longer a problem? I thought
most modern engines hated a snapped belt (they're called "interference
engines").

My engine doesn't have a belt.


More and more are going to chains again, and non-interference
engines are also becoming more common.

Chains don't last forever either - I used to change quite a few
timing chains on inline 6 and V8 engines - and LONG before 100,000
miles. Quite a few before 60,000

Mitsubishi 2600 4 cyls (used by Chrysler for years) had 0ver 6 feet
of chain in them and they were notorious for dropping the chain that
drove the balance shafts and the oil pump - letting the engine
continue to run with no oil pressure and self destruct.

Anything that can break an engine (including overheating which none seem to have protection for) should cut the fuel immediately with a sensor. Basic obvious design. How stupid are people who design cars?

--
My neighbour asked if he could use my lawnmower. I told him of course he could, so long as he didn't take it out of my garden. -- Eric Morecambe

On Thursday, April 26, 2018 at 10:22:01 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 05:18:18 +0100, Clare Snyder wrote:

On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 20:51:19 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 04/25/2018 11:51 AM, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Tue, 24 Apr 2018 04:08:51 +0100, Bob wrote:

On 4/23/2018 11:18 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
One sepentine belt and tensioner -$150

Obviously you do your own repairs. Good for you but if you don't have
your own shop and a decent set of tools, the economics change
drastically.

Back when I used to have one of those ****ing engines that would
self-destruct when the timing belt broke, the cost to replace the belt
(parts and labor) was very near $900...and I could never find a
competent shop to do it cheaper. And the damn belts
had to be changed every 60,000 miles.

Are you saying snapped timing belts is no longer a problem? I thought
most modern engines hated a snapped belt (they're called "interference
engines").

My engine doesn't have a belt.


More and more are going to chains again, and non-interference
engines are also becoming more common.

Chains don't last forever either - I used to change quite a few
timing chains on inline 6 and V8 engines - and LONG before 100,000
miles. Quite a few before 60,000

Mitsubishi 2600 4 cyls (used by Chrysler for years) had 0ver 6 feet
of chain in them and they were notorious for dropping the chain that
drove the balance shafts and the oil pump - letting the engine
continue to run with no oil pressure and self destruct.

Anything that can break an engine (including overheating which none seem to have protection for) should cut the fuel immediately with a sensor. Basic obvious design. How stupid are people who design cars?



I see, so we should have a sensor that will detect a broken timing chain
and stop the engine, which is running at 3000 RPMs, in time so that the
piston won't hit a valve. You should work on that.

We do have sensors and warning lights and messages for many of the
serious, common things, eg over temp, low oil pressure, low oil level.
They work for me. But then you're the guy who says you never change
the oil, only add oil when it's half empty, etc. Serious people who
contemplate such things also weigh the issue of disabling a car because
it's gone over temperature, versus letting you continue to drive it,
at your own risk, if you happen to be in a tunnel, fleeing a fire,
or driving through a high crime area. Already, many of the incidents
of these sensors giving warnings are false alarms, due to the sensor
being faulty. How many more would you like to add? Sounds to me
like another one of your solutions in search of a real problem.

On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 07:38:53 -0700 (PDT), tardo_4, the notorious,
troll-feeding Yankietard, driveled again:

Sounds to me like another one of your solutions in search of a real
problem.

You sound to me like yet another really demented, troll-feeding, senile
Yankietard, tardo_4!

On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 15:38:53 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Thursday, April 26, 2018 at 10:22:01 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 05:18:18 +0100, Clare Snyder wrote:

On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 20:51:19 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 04/25/2018 11:51 AM, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Tue, 24 Apr 2018 04:08:51 +0100, Bob wrote:

On 4/23/2018 11:18 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
One sepentine belt and tensioner -$150

Obviously you do your own repairs. Good for you but if you don't have
your own shop and a decent set of tools, the economics change
drastically.

Back when I used to have one of those ****ing engines that would
self-destruct when the timing belt broke, the cost to replace the belt
(parts and labor) was very near $900...and I could never find a
competent shop to do it cheaper. And the damn belts
had to be changed every 60,000 miles.

Are you saying snapped timing belts is no longer a problem? I thought
most modern engines hated a snapped belt (they're called "interference
engines").

My engine doesn't have a belt.


More and more are going to chains again, and non-interference
engines are also becoming more common.

Chains don't last forever either - I used to change quite a few
timing chains on inline 6 and V8 engines - and LONG before 100,000
miles. Quite a few before 60,000

Mitsubishi 2600 4 cyls (used by Chrysler for years) had 0ver 6 feet
of chain in them and they were notorious for dropping the chain that
drove the balance shafts and the oil pump - letting the engine
continue to run with no oil pressure and self destruct.

Anything that can break an engine (including overheating which none seem to have protection for) should cut the fuel immediately with a sensor. Basic obvious design. How stupid are people who design cars?

I see, so we should have a sensor that will detect a broken timing chain
and stop the engine, which is running at 3000 RPMs, in time so that the
piston won't hit a valve. You should work on that.

It should know it's on it's way out, or perhaps they should install a chain that lasts the life of the car instead of a piece of **** that needs replacing all the time?

We do have sensors and warning lights and messages for many of the
serious, common things, eg over temp, low oil pressure, low oil level.
They work for me.

I've yet to see a car that does anything with over temperature except expecting you to notice the guage is higher.

But then you're the guy who says you never change
the oil, only add oil when it's half empty, etc. Serious people who
contemplate such things also weigh the issue of disabling a car because
it's gone over temperature, versus letting you continue to drive it,
at your own risk, if you happen to be in a tunnel, fleeing a fire,
or driving through a high crime area.

If the oil isn't running smoothly, I expect a warning light. Flow sensor? Pretty easy.

Already, many of the incidents
of these sensors giving warnings are false alarms, due to the sensor
being faulty.

Then use decent sensors instead of Chinese ****.

How many more would you like to add? Sounds to me
like another one of your solutions in search of a real problem.

The problem is a car driver doesn't want to keep mollycoddling the car. I expect to buy a piece of machinery and have it work. If I hire an apprentice, I don't want to have to keep checking he's ok, he should tell me when he needs a lunch break. Same applies to machinery.

--
What's the difference between a naked white woman and a naked black woman?
One's on the cover of Playboy and the other's on the cover of National Geographic.

On Friday, April 27, 2018 at 11:39:03 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 15:38:53 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Thursday, April 26, 2018 at 10:22:01 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 05:18:18 +0100, Clare Snyder wrote:

On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 20:51:19 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 04/25/2018 11:51 AM, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Tue, 24 Apr 2018 04:08:51 +0100, Bob wrote:

On 4/23/2018 11:18 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
One sepentine belt and tensioner -$150

Obviously you do your own repairs. Good for you but if you don't have
your own shop and a decent set of tools, the economics change
drastically.

Back when I used to have one of those ****ing engines that would
self-destruct when the timing belt broke, the cost to replace the belt
(parts and labor) was very near $900...and I could never find a
competent shop to do it cheaper. And the damn belts
had to be changed every 60,000 miles.

Are you saying snapped timing belts is no longer a problem? I thought
most modern engines hated a snapped belt (they're called "interference
engines").

My engine doesn't have a belt.


More and more are going to chains again, and non-interference
engines are also becoming more common.

Chains don't last forever either - I used to change quite a few
timing chains on inline 6 and V8 engines - and LONG before 100,000
miles. Quite a few before 60,000

Mitsubishi 2600 4 cyls (used by Chrysler for years) had 0ver 6 feet
of chain in them and they were notorious for dropping the chain that
drove the balance shafts and the oil pump - letting the engine
continue to run with no oil pressure and self destruct.

Anything that can break an engine (including overheating which none seem to have protection for) should cut the fuel immediately with a sensor. Basic obvious design. How stupid are people who design cars?

I see, so we should have a sensor that will detect a broken timing chain
and stop the engine, which is running at 3000 RPMs, in time so that the
piston won't hit a valve. You should work on that.

It should know it's on it's way out, or perhaps they should install a chain that lasts the life of the car instead of a piece of **** that needs replacing all the time?


Chains generally do last the lifetime of the car. I've never had to replace
one. I've had cars go 220K miles with no timing chain problems. And you
claim that the lifetime of a car is just 130K miles. But then you don't
do routine maintenance, you never change the oil, you think maybe that has
something to do with the timing chains wearing out?






We do have sensors and warning lights and messages for many of the
serious, common things, eg over temp, low oil pressure, low oil level.
They work for me.

I've yet to see a car that does anything with over temperature except expecting you to notice the guage is higher.

Most cars today have no temp gauge. If the temp gets too high, the
CEL comes on together with a warning message about temp.





But then you're the guy who says you never change
the oil, only add oil when it's half empty, etc. Serious people who
contemplate such things also weigh the issue of disabling a car because
it's gone over temperature, versus letting you continue to drive it,
at your own risk, if you happen to be in a tunnel, fleeing a fire,
or driving through a high crime area.

If the oil isn't running smoothly, I expect a warning light. Flow sensor? Pretty easy.


Nuff said there about your knowledge and practices.

On Fri, 27 Apr 2018 08:58:26 -0700 (PDT), tardo_4, the notorious,
troll-feeding Yankietard, driveled again:

If the oil isn't running smoothly, I expect a warning light. Flow sensor? Pretty easy.

Nuff said there about your knowledge and practices.

Let's talk about your disgusting sucking of troll cock then, senile
Yankietard!

On Fri, 27 Apr 2018 16:58:26 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Friday, April 27, 2018 at 11:39:03 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 15:38:53 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Thursday, April 26, 2018 at 10:22:01 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 05:18:18 +0100, Clare Snyder wrote:

On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 20:51:19 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 04/25/2018 11:51 AM, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Tue, 24 Apr 2018 04:08:51 +0100, Bob wrote:

On 4/23/2018 11:18 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
One sepentine belt and tensioner -$150

Obviously you do your own repairs. Good for you but if you don't have
your own shop and a decent set of tools, the economics change
drastically.

Back when I used to have one of those ****ing engines that would
self-destruct when the timing belt broke, the cost to replace the belt
(parts and labor) was very near $900...and I could never find a
competent shop to do it cheaper. And the damn belts
had to be changed every 60,000 miles.

Are you saying snapped timing belts is no longer a problem? I thought
most modern engines hated a snapped belt (they're called "interference
engines").

My engine doesn't have a belt.


More and more are going to chains again, and non-interference
engines are also becoming more common.

Chains don't last forever either - I used to change quite a few
timing chains on inline 6 and V8 engines - and LONG before 100,000
miles. Quite a few before 60,000

Mitsubishi 2600 4 cyls (used by Chrysler for years) had 0ver 6 feet
of chain in them and they were notorious for dropping the chain that
drove the balance shafts and the oil pump - letting the engine
continue to run with no oil pressure and self destruct.

Anything that can break an engine (including overheating which none seem to have protection for) should cut the fuel immediately with a sensor. Basic obvious design. How stupid are people who design cars?

I see, so we should have a sensor that will detect a broken timing chain
and stop the engine, which is running at 3000 RPMs, in time so that the
piston won't hit a valve. You should work on that.

It should know it's on it's way out, or perhaps they should install a chain that lasts the life of the car instead of a piece of **** that needs replacing all the time?

Chains generally do last the lifetime of the car. I've never had to replace
one. I've had cars go 220K miles with no timing chain problems. And you
claim that the lifetime of a car is just 130K miles. But then you don't
do routine maintenance, you never change the oil, you think maybe that has
something to do with the timing chains wearing out?

AFAIK all my cars have had timing belts. I've never changed one, as the cost of having it done is a large proportion of the value of the car at that age. But I've heard of many many people saying their belt snapped and it would have cost £2K-£3K to fix it.

We do have sensors and warning lights and messages for many of the
serious, common things, eg over temp, low oil pressure, low oil level.
They work for me.

I've yet to see a car that does anything with over temperature except expecting you to notice the guage is higher.

Most cars today have no temp gauge. If the temp gets too high, the
CEL comes on together with a warning message about temp.

You must be one of those morons that buys cars new enough to have excessive depreciation. Thankyou for making 2nd hand cars cheaper....

The question remains though, why were cars not always made like this? They've always had oil warning lights, but over-temperature is ****ing important and deserves a warning light.

But then you're the guy who says you never change
the oil, only add oil when it's half empty, etc. Serious people who
contemplate such things also weigh the issue of disabling a car because
it's gone over temperature, versus letting you continue to drive it,
at your own risk, if you happen to be in a tunnel, fleeing a fire,
or driving through a high crime area.

If the oil isn't running smoothly, I expect a warning light. Flow sensor? Pretty easy.

Nuff said there about your knowledge and practices.

What do you think makes the oil warning light come on?

--
More people in the world are bitten by New Yorkers than by sharks.

On Sat, 28 Apr 2018 19:10:48 +0100, "Jimmy Wilkinson Knife"
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Apr 2018 16:58:26 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Friday, April 27, 2018 at 11:39:03 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 15:38:53 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Thursday, April 26, 2018 at 10:22:01 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 05:18:18 +0100, Clare Snyder wrote:

On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 20:51:19 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 04/25/2018 11:51 AM, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Tue, 24 Apr 2018 04:08:51 +0100, Bob wrote:

On 4/23/2018 11:18 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
One sepentine belt and tensioner -$150

Obviously you do your own repairs. Good for you but if you don't have
your own shop and a decent set of tools, the economics change
drastically.

Back when I used to have one of those ****ing engines that would
self-destruct when the timing belt broke, the cost to replace the belt
(parts and labor) was very near $900...and I could never find a
competent shop to do it cheaper. And the damn belts
had to be changed every 60,000 miles.

Are you saying snapped timing belts is no longer a problem? I thought
most modern engines hated a snapped belt (they're called "interference
engines").

My engine doesn't have a belt.


More and more are going to chains again, and non-interference
engines are also becoming more common.

Chains don't last forever either - I used to change quite a few
timing chains on inline 6 and V8 engines - and LONG before 100,000
miles. Quite a few before 60,000

Mitsubishi 2600 4 cyls (used by Chrysler for years) had 0ver 6 feet
of chain in them and they were notorious for dropping the chain that
drove the balance shafts and the oil pump - letting the engine
continue to run with no oil pressure and self destruct.

Anything that can break an engine (including overheating which none seem to have protection for) should cut the fuel immediately with a sensor. Basic obvious design. How stupid are people who design cars?

I see, so we should have a sensor that will detect a broken timing chain
and stop the engine, which is running at 3000 RPMs, in time so that the
piston won't hit a valve. You should work on that.

It should know it's on it's way out, or perhaps they should install a chain that lasts the life of the car instead of a piece of **** that needs replacing all the time?

Chains generally do last the lifetime of the car. I've never had to replace
one. I've had cars go 220K miles with no timing chain problems. And you
claim that the lifetime of a car is just 130K miles. But then you don't
do routine maintenance, you never change the oil, you think maybe that has
something to do with the timing chains wearing out?

AFAIK all my cars have had timing belts. I've never changed one, as the cost of having it done is a large proportion of the value of the car at that age. But I've heard of many many people saying their belt snapped and it would have cost £2K-£3K to fix it.

If your belt breaks on a non-interferance engine, you are just stuck
on the side of the road,. If it breaks in an interference engine, you
might as well take the tags off and burn the car. The engine is trash.
Typically the interference engines are the ones they try to squeeze
extra performance out of. My old Pontiac Sunbird broke several belts
because of a manufacturing problem and GM just kept replacing them
without fixing the real problem. I finally figured out what was going
on and made them fix it.

We do have sensors and warning lights and messages for many of the
serious, common things, eg over temp, low oil pressure, low oil level.
They work for me.

I've yet to see a car that does anything with over temperature except expecting you to notice the guage is higher.

Most cars today have no temp gauge. If the temp gets too high, the
CEL comes on together with a warning message about temp.

You must be one of those morons that buys cars new enough to have excessive depreciation. Thankyou for making 2nd hand cars cheaper....

The question remains though, why were cars not always made like this? They've always had oil warning lights, but over-temperature is ****ing important and deserves a warning light.

But then you're the guy who says you never change
the oil, only add oil when it's half empty, etc. Serious people who
contemplate such things also weigh the issue of disabling a car because
it's gone over temperature, versus letting you continue to drive it,
at your own risk, if you happen to be in a tunnel, fleeing a fire,
or driving through a high crime area.

If the oil isn't running smoothly, I expect a warning light. Flow sensor? Pretty easy.

Nuff said there about your knowledge and practices.

What do you think makes the oil warning light come on?

On Sat, 28 Apr 2018 16:45:13 -0400, , the mentally
challenged, notorious, troll-feeding retard, blabbered again:

AFAIK all my cars have had timing belts. I've never changed one, as the
cost of having it done is a large proportion of the value of the car at
that age. But I've heard of many many people saying their belt snapped
and it would have cost £2K-£3K to fix it.

If your belt breaks on a non-interferance engine

Something broke in your stupid heads already long time ago, you driveling
idiots! tsk

On Saturday, April 28, 2018 at 2:10:56 PM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Fri, 27 Apr 2018 16:58:26 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Friday, April 27, 2018 at 11:39:03 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 15:38:53 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Thursday, April 26, 2018 at 10:22:01 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 05:18:18 +0100, Clare Snyder wrote:

On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 20:51:19 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 04/25/2018 11:51 AM, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Tue, 24 Apr 2018 04:08:51 +0100, Bob wrote:

On 4/23/2018 11:18 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
One sepentine belt and tensioner -$150

Obviously you do your own repairs. Good for you but if you don't have
your own shop and a decent set of tools, the economics change
drastically.

Back when I used to have one of those ****ing engines that would
self-destruct when the timing belt broke, the cost to replace the belt
(parts and labor) was very near $900...and I could never find a
competent shop to do it cheaper. And the damn belts
had to be changed every 60,000 miles.

Are you saying snapped timing belts is no longer a problem? I thought
most modern engines hated a snapped belt (they're called "interference
engines").

My engine doesn't have a belt.


More and more are going to chains again, and non-interference
engines are also becoming more common.

Chains don't last forever either - I used to change quite a few
timing chains on inline 6 and V8 engines - and LONG before 100,000
miles. Quite a few before 60,000

Mitsubishi 2600 4 cyls (used by Chrysler for years) had 0ver 6 feet
of chain in them and they were notorious for dropping the chain that
drove the balance shafts and the oil pump - letting the engine
continue to run with no oil pressure and self destruct.

Anything that can break an engine (including overheating which none seem to have protection for) should cut the fuel immediately with a sensor.. Basic obvious design. How stupid are people who design cars?

I see, so we should have a sensor that will detect a broken timing chain
and stop the engine, which is running at 3000 RPMs, in time so that the
piston won't hit a valve. You should work on that.

It should know it's on it's way out, or perhaps they should install a chain that lasts the life of the car instead of a piece of **** that needs replacing all the time?

Chains generally do last the lifetime of the car. I've never had to replace
one. I've had cars go 220K miles with no timing chain problems. And you
claim that the lifetime of a car is just 130K miles. But then you don't
do routine maintenance, you never change the oil, you think maybe that has
something to do with the timing chains wearing out?

AFAIK all my cars have had timing belts. I've never changed one, as the cost of having it done is a large proportion of the value of the car at that age. But I've heard of many many people saying their belt snapped and it would have cost £2K-£3K to fix it.

We do have sensors and warning lights and messages for many of the
serious, common things, eg over temp, low oil pressure, low oil level.
They work for me.

I've yet to see a car that does anything with over temperature except expecting you to notice the guage is higher.

Most cars today have no temp gauge. If the temp gets too high, the
CEL comes on together with a warning message about temp.

You must be one of those morons that buys cars new enough to have excessive depreciation. Thankyou for making 2nd hand cars cheaper....

Not having a temp gauge, but instead having the CEL and a warning message
that indicates there is a temperature problem isn't a new thing. Cars
have been involving in that direction for decades. Sure if you buy a
Porsche or BMW, they have a temp gauge. But many typical sedans evolved
away from that long ago.





The question remains though, why were cars not always made like this? They've always had oil warning lights, but over-temperature is ****ing important and deserves ...

Again, WTF is your problem? Every new car that's made will put the CEL
on, display a warning if it's over temp.

On Sat, 28 Apr 2018 16:45:13 -0400, wrote:
Snipppppppp

I've yet to see a car that does anything with over temperature except expecting you to notice the guage is higher.

Well, a Cadillac Northstar shuts down cylsin a pattern allowing the
engine to SAFELY continue running at reduced power even if it totally
runs out of coolant - and that goed back to 1991.

ALL OBD2 compliant engines (that is 1996 on) flash the CEL if the
engine overheats, and MANY vehicles going back several decades had
"overtemperature" warning lights , sometimes in combination with a
tempguage and sometimes alone.

Most cars today have no temp gauge. If the temp gets too high, the
CEL comes on together with a warning message about temp.

You must be one of those morons that buys cars new enough to have excessive depreciation. Thankyou for making 2nd hand cars cheaper....

The question remains though, why were cars not always made like this? They've always had oil warning lights, but over-temperature is ****ing important and deserves a warning light.

Not ALL cars had oilpressure lights - some had only gauges. And the
oil pressure light generally only comes on if the pressure drops below
3 or 4 psi - where damage can already be done.

We called them "inconvenience lights"

But then you're the guy who says you never change
the oil, only add oil when it's half empty, etc. Serious people who
contemplate such things also weigh the issue of disabling a car because
it's gone over temperature, versus letting you continue to drive it,
at your own risk, if you happen to be in a tunnel, fleeing a fire,
or driving through a high crime area.

If the oil isn't running smoothly, I expect a warning light. Flow sensor? Pretty easy.

The smart Scotsman should design a car - and see if he can make it
any better than a Peel P50

Nuff said there about your knowledge and practices.

What do you think makes the oil warning light come on?

On Sat, 28 Apr 2018 17:55:56 -0700 (PDT), tardo_4, the notorious,
troll-feeding Yankietard, driveled again:


The question remains though, why were cars not always made like this?
They've always had oil warning lights, but over-temperature is ****ing
important and deserves ...

Again, WTF is your problem?

More relevant question: what's YOUR problem, you troll-feeding Yankietard?
HIS only problem is whether you will continue to take all of his idiotic
baits or not! BG

On Sun, 29 Apr 2018 01:55:56 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Saturday, April 28, 2018 at 2:10:56 PM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Fri, 27 Apr 2018 16:58:26 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Friday, April 27, 2018 at 11:39:03 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 15:38:53 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Thursday, April 26, 2018 at 10:22:01 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 05:18:18 +0100, Clare Snyder wrote:

On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 20:51:19 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 04/25/2018 11:51 AM, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Tue, 24 Apr 2018 04:08:51 +0100, Bob wrote:

On 4/23/2018 11:18 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
One sepentine belt and tensioner -$150

Obviously you do your own repairs. Good for you but if you don't have
your own shop and a decent set of tools, the economics change
drastically.

Back when I used to have one of those ****ing engines that would
self-destruct when the timing belt broke, the cost to replace the belt
(parts and labor) was very near $900...and I could never find a
competent shop to do it cheaper. And the damn belts
had to be changed every 60,000 miles.

Are you saying snapped timing belts is no longer a problem? I thought
most modern engines hated a snapped belt (they're called "interference
engines").

My engine doesn't have a belt.


More and more are going to chains again, and non-interference
engines are also becoming more common.

Chains don't last forever either - I used to change quite a few
timing chains on inline 6 and V8 engines - and LONG before 100,000
miles. Quite a few before 60,000

Mitsubishi 2600 4 cyls (used by Chrysler for years) had 0ver 6 feet
of chain in them and they were notorious for dropping the chain that
drove the balance shafts and the oil pump - letting the engine
continue to run with no oil pressure and self destruct.

Anything that can break an engine (including overheating which none seem to have protection for) should cut the fuel immediately with a sensor. Basic obvious design. How stupid are people who design cars?

I see, so we should have a sensor that will detect a broken timing chain
and stop the engine, which is running at 3000 RPMs, in time so that the
piston won't hit a valve. You should work on that.

It should know it's on it's way out, or perhaps they should install a chain that lasts the life of the car instead of a piece of **** that needs replacing all the time?

Chains generally do last the lifetime of the car. I've never had to replace
one. I've had cars go 220K miles with no timing chain problems. And you
claim that the lifetime of a car is just 130K miles. But then you don't
do routine maintenance, you never change the oil, you think maybe that has
something to do with the timing chains wearing out?

AFAIK all my cars have had timing belts. I've never changed one, as the cost of having it done is a large proportion of the value of the car at that age. But I've heard of many many people saying their belt snapped and it would have cost £2K-£3K to fix it.

We do have sensors and warning lights and messages for many of the
serious, common things, eg over temp, low oil pressure, low oil level.
They work for me.

I've yet to see a car that does anything with over temperature except expecting you to notice the guage is higher.

Most cars today have no temp gauge. If the temp gets too high, the
CEL comes on together with a warning message about temp.

You must be one of those morons that buys cars new enough to have excessive depreciation. Thankyou for making 2nd hand cars cheaper....

Not having a temp gauge, but instead having the CEL and a warning message
that indicates there is a temperature problem isn't a new thing. Cars
have been involving in that direction for decades. Sure if you buy a
Porsche or BMW, they have a temp gauge. But many typical sedans evolved
away from that long ago.

From what date? I've never seen a car without a temp guage.

The question remains though, why were cars not always made like this? They've always had oil warning lights, but over-temperature is ****ing important and deserves ...

Again, WTF is your problem? Every new car that's made will put the CEL
on, display a warning if it's over temp.

Do you understand the phrase "always made like this"?

And it's still wrong, it shouldn't warn you but just cut out, just like an overheating CPU would. You need to stop it RIGHT NOW, not when the driver feels like it.

--
Confucius say: "If you park, don't drink, accidents cause people."

On Sat, 28 Apr 2018 21:45:13 +0100, wrote:

On Sat, 28 Apr 2018 19:10:48 +0100, "Jimmy Wilkinson Knife"
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Apr 2018 16:58:26 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Friday, April 27, 2018 at 11:39:03 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 15:38:53 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Thursday, April 26, 2018 at 10:22:01 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 05:18:18 +0100, Clare Snyder wrote:

On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 20:51:19 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 04/25/2018 11:51 AM, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Tue, 24 Apr 2018 04:08:51 +0100, Bob wrote:

On 4/23/2018 11:18 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
One sepentine belt and tensioner -$150

Obviously you do your own repairs. Good for you but if you don't have
your own shop and a decent set of tools, the economics change
drastically.

Back when I used to have one of those ****ing engines that would
self-destruct when the timing belt broke, the cost to replace the belt
(parts and labor) was very near $900...and I could never find a
competent shop to do it cheaper. And the damn belts
had to be changed every 60,000 miles.

Are you saying snapped timing belts is no longer a problem? I thought
most modern engines hated a snapped belt (they're called "interference
engines").

My engine doesn't have a belt.


More and more are going to chains again, and non-interference
engines are also becoming more common.

Chains don't last forever either - I used to change quite a few
timing chains on inline 6 and V8 engines - and LONG before 100,000
miles. Quite a few before 60,000

Mitsubishi 2600 4 cyls (used by Chrysler for years) had 0ver 6 feet
of chain in them and they were notorious for dropping the chain that
drove the balance shafts and the oil pump - letting the engine
continue to run with no oil pressure and self destruct.

Anything that can break an engine (including overheating which none seem to have protection for) should cut the fuel immediately with a sensor. Basic obvious design. How stupid are people who design cars?

I see, so we should have a sensor that will detect a broken timing chain
and stop the engine, which is running at 3000 RPMs, in time so that the
piston won't hit a valve. You should work on that.

It should know it's on it's way out, or perhaps they should install a chain that lasts the life of the car instead of a piece of **** that needs replacing all the time?

Chains generally do last the lifetime of the car. I've never had to replace
one. I've had cars go 220K miles with no timing chain problems. And you
claim that the lifetime of a car is just 130K miles. But then you don't
do routine maintenance, you never change the oil, you think maybe that has
something to do with the timing chains wearing out?

AFAIK all my cars have had timing belts. I've never changed one, as the cost of having it done is a large proportion of the value of the car at that age. But I've heard of many many people saying their belt snapped and it would have cost £2K-£3K to fix it.

If your belt breaks on a non-interferance engine, you are just stuck
on the side of the road,. If it breaks in an interference engine, you
might as well take the tags off and burn the car. The engine is trash.
Typically the interference engines are the ones they try to squeeze
extra performance out of. My old Pontiac Sunbird broke several belts
because of a manufacturing problem and GM just kept replacing them
without fixing the real problem. I finally figured out what was going
on and made them fix it.

When I did a google search, I was told that most engines are interference nowadays.

We do have sensors and warning lights and messages for many of the
serious, common things, eg over temp, low oil pressure, low oil level.
They work for me.

I've yet to see a car that does anything with over temperature except expecting you to notice the guage is higher.

Most cars today have no temp gauge. If the temp gets too high, the
CEL comes on together with a warning message about temp.

You must be one of those morons that buys cars new enough to have excessive depreciation. Thankyou for making 2nd hand cars cheaper....

The question remains though, why were cars not always made like this? They've always had oil warning lights, but over-temperature is ****ing important and deserves a warning light.

But then you're the guy who says you never change
the oil, only add oil when it's half empty, etc. Serious people who
contemplate such things also weigh the issue of disabling a car because
it's gone over temperature, versus letting you continue to drive it,
at your own risk, if you happen to be in a tunnel, fleeing a fire,
or driving through a high crime area.

If the oil isn't running smoothly, I expect a warning light. Flow sensor? Pretty easy.

Nuff said there about your knowledge and practices.

What do you think makes the oil warning light come on?

A flow sensor.

--
Working with Sophia Loren is like being bombarded by watermelons -- Alan Ladd

On Sun, 29 Apr 2018 01:56:42 +0100, Clare Snyder wrote:

On Sat, 28 Apr 2018 16:45:13 -0400, wrote:
Snipppppppp

I've yet to see a car that does anything with over temperature except expecting you to notice the guage is higher.

Well, a Cadillac Northstar shuts down cylsin a pattern allowing the
engine to SAFELY continue running at reduced power even if it totally
runs out of coolant - and that goed back to 1991.

ALL OBD2 compliant engines (that is 1996 on) flash the CEL if the
engine overheats,

Not in the UK they don't, but they do have OBD2 as I've used it to link the onboard computer to a laptop.

and MANY vehicles going back several decades had
"overtemperature" warning lights , sometimes in combination with a
tempguage and sometimes alone.

Most cars today have no temp gauge. If the temp gets too high, the
CEL comes on together with a warning message about temp.

You must be one of those morons that buys cars new enough to have excessive depreciation. Thankyou for making 2nd hand cars cheaper....

The question remains though, why were cars not always made like this? They've always had oil warning lights, but over-temperature is ****ing important and deserves a warning light.

Not ALL cars had oilpressure lights - some had only gauges. And the
oil pressure light generally only comes on if the pressure drops below
3 or 4 psi - where damage can already be done.

Then it's designed wrong.

And my friend had a Ford Probe which he ran for quite some time (a month or three) with the oil light on. He only did something about it when I warned him he was going to break something. Nothing broke despite driving for months on low oil pressure.

We called them "inconvenience lights"

But then you're the guy who says you never change
the oil, only add oil when it's half empty, etc. Serious people who
contemplate such things also weigh the issue of disabling a car because
it's gone over temperature, versus letting you continue to drive it,
at your own risk, if you happen to be in a tunnel, fleeing a fire,
or driving through a high crime area.

If the oil isn't running smoothly, I expect a warning light. Flow sensor? Pretty easy.

The smart Scotsman should design a car - and see if he can make it
any better than a Peel P50

I'm just applying basic common sense. If something is going to kill the car, the car needs to react to this immediately. An analogy is the old AMD CPUs on computers, you can find a video on Youtube of someone comparing one to an Intel. They removed the fan and heatsink while playing a game, and the AMD caught fire. The Intel just slowed down and continued.

--
A blue whale's heart is roughly the size of a VW Beetle, and its aorta is large enough for a human to crawl through.

On Sunday, April 29, 2018 at 9:38:39 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Sat, 28 Apr 2018 21:45:13 +0100, wrote:

On Sat, 28 Apr 2018 19:10:48 +0100, "Jimmy Wilkinson Knife"
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Apr 2018 16:58:26 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Friday, April 27, 2018 at 11:39:03 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 15:38:53 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Thursday, April 26, 2018 at 10:22:01 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 05:18:18 +0100, Clare Snyder wrote:

On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 20:51:19 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 04/25/2018 11:51 AM, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Tue, 24 Apr 2018 04:08:51 +0100, Bob wrote:

On 4/23/2018 11:18 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
One sepentine belt and tensioner -$150

Obviously you do your own repairs. Good for you but if you don't have
your own shop and a decent set of tools, the economics change
drastically.

Back when I used to have one of those ****ing engines that would
self-destruct when the timing belt broke, the cost to replace the belt
(parts and labor) was very near $900...and I could never find a
competent shop to do it cheaper. And the damn belts
had to be changed every 60,000 miles.

Are you saying snapped timing belts is no longer a problem? I thought
most modern engines hated a snapped belt (they're called "interference
engines").

My engine doesn't have a belt.


More and more are going to chains again, and non-interference
engines are also becoming more common.

Chains don't last forever either - I used to change quite a few
timing chains on inline 6 and V8 engines - and LONG before 100,000
miles. Quite a few before 60,000

Mitsubishi 2600 4 cyls (used by Chrysler for years) had 0ver 6 feet
of chain in them and they were notorious for dropping the chain that
drove the balance shafts and the oil pump - letting the engine
continue to run with no oil pressure and self destruct.

Anything that can break an engine (including overheating which none seem to have protection for) should cut the fuel immediately with a sensor. Basic obvious design. How stupid are people who design cars?

I see, so we should have a sensor that will detect a broken timing chain
and stop the engine, which is running at 3000 RPMs, in time so that the
piston won't hit a valve. You should work on that.

It should know it's on it's way out, or perhaps they should install a chain that lasts the life of the car instead of a piece of **** that needs replacing all the time?

Chains generally do last the lifetime of the car. I've never had to replace
one. I've had cars go 220K miles with no timing chain problems. And you
claim that the lifetime of a car is just 130K miles. But then you don't
do routine maintenance, you never change the oil, you think maybe that has
something to do with the timing chains wearing out?

AFAIK all my cars have had timing belts. I've never changed one, as the cost of having it done is a large proportion of the value of the car at that age. But I've heard of many many people saying their belt snapped and it would have cost £2K-£3K to fix it.

If your belt breaks on a non-interferance engine, you are just stuck
on the side of the road,. If it breaks in an interference engine, you
might as well take the tags off and burn the car. The engine is trash.
Typically the interference engines are the ones they try to squeeze
extra performance out of. My old Pontiac Sunbird broke several belts
because of a manufacturing problem and GM just kept replacing them
without fixing the real problem. I finally figured out what was going
on and made them fix it.

When I did a google search, I was told that most engines are interference nowadays.

We do have sensors and warning lights and messages for many of the
serious, common things, eg over temp, low oil pressure, low oil level.
They work for me.

I've yet to see a car that does anything with over temperature except expecting you to notice the guage is higher.

Most cars today have no temp gauge. If the temp gets too high, the
CEL comes on together with a warning message about temp.

You must be one of those morons that buys cars new enough to have excessive depreciation. Thankyou for making 2nd hand cars cheaper....

The question remains though, why were cars not always made like this? They've always had oil warning lights, but over-temperature is ****ing important and deserves a warning light.

But then you're the guy who says you never change
the oil, only add oil when it's half empty, etc. Serious people who
contemplate such things also weigh the issue of disabling a car because
it's gone over temperature, versus letting you continue to drive it,
at your own risk, if you happen to be in a tunnel, fleeing a fire,
or driving through a high crime area.

If the oil isn't running smoothly, I expect a warning light. Flow sensor? Pretty easy.

Nuff said there about your knowledge and practices.

What do you think makes the oil warning light come on?

A flow sensor.

--


Wrong again. It's a pressure sensor. Some cars also have oil level
sensors. You really should just give up.

On Sun, 29 Apr 2018 08:21:23 -0700 (PDT), tardo_4, the notorious,
troll-feeding Yankietard, driveled again:

A flow sensor.

--

Wrong again. It's a pressure sensor. Some cars also have oil level
sensors. You really should just give up.

He will, but ONLY once you give up sucking him off time and again, poor
tardo_4! LOL

On 04/29/2018 07:42 AM, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
I'm just applying basic common sense. If something is going to kill the
car, the car needs to react to this immediately. An analogy is the old
AMD CPUs on computers, you can find a video on Youtube of someone
comparing one to an Intel. They removed the fan and heatsink while
playing a game, and the AMD caught fire. The Intel just slowed down and
continued.

That's precisely what the 'limp home' mode is for. In an emergency most
people would prefer the car keeps running rather than crapping out 10
miles from the emergency room as they bleed out.

On Sun, 29 Apr 2018 11:42:49 -0600, lowbrowman, yet another endlessly
driveling senile idiot, blabbered again:


That's precisely what the 'limp home' mode is for. In an emergency most
people would prefer the car keeps running rather than crapping out 10
miles from the emergency room as they bleed out.

Most people would prefer you two driveling idiots to just shut the **** up!

On Sun, 29 Apr 2018 11:42:49 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 04/29/2018 07:42 AM, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
I'm just applying basic common sense. If something is going to kill the
car, the car needs to react to this immediately. An analogy is the old
AMD CPUs on computers, you can find a video on Youtube of someone
comparing one to an Intel. They removed the fan and heatsink while
playing a game, and the AMD caught fire. The Intel just slowed down and
continued.

That's precisely what the 'limp home' mode is for. In an emergency most
people would prefer the car keeps running rather than crapping out 10
miles from the emergency room as they bleed out.


And on the AMD you didn't need to remove the heat sink for them to
burn right through the motherboard -- - - -





There are two "modes" to a CEL on "modern" (later than 1996) cars.

The solid light means there is a problem (usually emissions related,
but not exclusively) that requires attention.
A FLASHING light means there is a problem that will likely cause
damage to the engine or it's systems if you continue to drive.

This allows you to get to safety, but MAY cost you additional repairs.

On Sun, 29 Apr 2018 16:21:23 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Sunday, April 29, 2018 at 9:38:39 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Sat, 28 Apr 2018 21:45:13 +0100, wrote:

On Sat, 28 Apr 2018 19:10:48 +0100, "Jimmy Wilkinson Knife"
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Apr 2018 16:58:26 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Friday, April 27, 2018 at 11:39:03 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 15:38:53 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Thursday, April 26, 2018 at 10:22:01 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 05:18:18 +0100, Clare Snyder wrote:

On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 20:51:19 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 04/25/2018 11:51 AM, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Tue, 24 Apr 2018 04:08:51 +0100, Bob wrote:

On 4/23/2018 11:18 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
One sepentine belt and tensioner -$150

Obviously you do your own repairs. Good for you but if you don't have
your own shop and a decent set of tools, the economics change
drastically.

Back when I used to have one of those ****ing engines that would
self-destruct when the timing belt broke, the cost to replace the belt
(parts and labor) was very near $900...and I could never find a
competent shop to do it cheaper. And the damn belts
had to be changed every 60,000 miles.

Are you saying snapped timing belts is no longer a problem? I thought
most modern engines hated a snapped belt (they're called "interference
engines").

My engine doesn't have a belt.


More and more are going to chains again, and non-interference
engines are also becoming more common.

Chains don't last forever either - I used to change quite a few
timing chains on inline 6 and V8 engines - and LONG before 100,000
miles. Quite a few before 60,000

Mitsubishi 2600 4 cyls (used by Chrysler for years) had 0ver 6 feet
of chain in them and they were notorious for dropping the chain that
drove the balance shafts and the oil pump - letting the engine
continue to run with no oil pressure and self destruct.

Anything that can break an engine (including overheating which none seem to have protection for) should cut the fuel immediately with a sensor. Basic obvious design. How stupid are people who design cars?

I see, so we should have a sensor that will detect a broken timing chain
and stop the engine, which is running at 3000 RPMs, in time so that the
piston won't hit a valve. You should work on that.

It should know it's on it's way out, or perhaps they should install a chain that lasts the life of the car instead of a piece of **** that needs replacing all the time?

Chains generally do last the lifetime of the car. I've never had to replace
one. I've had cars go 220K miles with no timing chain problems. And you
claim that the lifetime of a car is just 130K miles. But then you don't
do routine maintenance, you never change the oil, you think maybe that has
something to do with the timing chains wearing out?

AFAIK all my cars have had timing belts. I've never changed one, as the cost of having it done is a large proportion of the value of the car at that age. But I've heard of many many people saying their belt snapped and it would have cost £2K-£3K to fix it.

If your belt breaks on a non-interferance engine, you are just stuck
on the side of the road,. If it breaks in an interference engine, you
might as well take the tags off and burn the car. The engine is trash.
Typically the interference engines are the ones they try to squeeze
extra performance out of. My old Pontiac Sunbird broke several belts
because of a manufacturing problem and GM just kept replacing them
without fixing the real problem. I finally figured out what was going
on and made them fix it.

When I did a google search, I was told that most engines are interference nowadays.

We do have sensors and warning lights and messages for many of the
serious, common things, eg over temp, low oil pressure, low oil level.
They work for me.

I've yet to see a car that does anything with over temperature except expecting you to notice the guage is higher.

Most cars today have no temp gauge. If the temp gets too high, the
CEL comes on together with a warning message about temp.

You must be one of those morons that buys cars new enough to have excessive depreciation. Thankyou for making 2nd hand cars cheaper....

The question remains though, why were cars not always made like this? They've always had oil warning lights, but over-temperature is ****ing important and deserves a warning light.

But then you're the guy who says you never change
the oil, only add oil when it's half empty, etc. Serious people who
contemplate such things also weigh the issue of disabling a car because
it's gone over temperature, versus letting you continue to drive it,
at your own risk, if you happen to be in a tunnel, fleeing a fire,
or driving through a high crime area.

If the oil isn't running smoothly, I expect a warning light. Flow sensor? Pretty easy.

Nuff said there about your knowledge and practices.

What do you think makes the oil warning light come on?

A flow sensor.

Wrong again. It's a pressure sensor.

Which equates to the same thing. Insufficient flow makes less pressure. The idea is to tell if it's pumping through ok. Faulty pump, blocked filter, or lack of oil, and the warning light comes on.

Some cars also have oil level
sensors. You really should just give up.

That's just for advanced warning. Mine checks it every time I start he engine.

--
"Sir, your daughter says she loves me, she can't live without me, and wants to marry me."
"And you're asking my permission to marry her?"
"No, I'm asking you to make her leave me the hell alone!!"

On Sun, 29 Apr 2018 20:39:07 +0100, Clare Snyder wrote:

On Sun, 29 Apr 2018 11:42:49 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 04/29/2018 07:42 AM, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
I'm just applying basic common sense. If something is going to kill the
car, the car needs to react to this immediately. An analogy is the old
AMD CPUs on computers, you can find a video on Youtube of someone
comparing one to an Intel. They removed the fan and heatsink while
playing a game, and the AMD caught fire. The Intel just slowed down and
continued.

That's precisely what the 'limp home' mode is for. In an emergency most
people would prefer the car keeps running rather than crapping out 10
miles from the emergency room as they bleed out.

And on the AMD you didn't need to remove the heat sink for them to
burn right through the motherboard -- - - -

As late as 5 years ago Nvidea graphics cards could overheat and destroy themselves. AMD ones don't though. Not tried a more recent Nvidea as AMD are better value for money.

There are two "modes" to a CEL on "modern" (later than 1996) cars.

The solid light means there is a problem (usually emissions related,
but not exclusively) that requires attention.
A FLASHING light means there is a problem that will likely cause
damage to the engine or it's systems if you continue to drive.

This allows you to get to safety, but MAY cost you additional repairs.

I've yet to see a car which does this (certainly not with overheating, I've not had anything else life-threatening for an engine on recent cars).

--
Can fat people go skinny-dipping?