Normally the Generac generator feeds the whole house.
No fuse is tripped and I switched them all anyway (like everyone does).
What would make a generator only feed half the house? (if that)

At first it wouldn't go on automatically - so that may be a clue.
I had to switch it to automatic from manual and after a dozen of those
switches, it went on automatically.

I'm wondering how to debug the transfer switch but I opened both up and
they seem to be the same with no moving parts.

Any ideas?

On Tuesday, December 19, 2017 at 5:35:25 AM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:
Normally the Generac generator feeds the whole house.
No fuse is tripped and I switched them all anyway (like everyone does).
What would make a generator only feed half the house? (if that)

At first it wouldn't go on automatically - so that may be a clue.
I had to switch it to automatic from manual and after a dozen of those
switches, it went on automatically.

I'm wondering how to debug the transfer switch but I opened both up and
they seem to be the same with no moving parts.

Any ideas?

Just get a meter and start tracing back the hot leg that has no voltage.

replying to Danny D., Iggy wrote:
Sounds like you'll need an Electrician to replace your Relay, as only 1-leg of
the generator's feed is activating and the other is getting stuck. As far as I
know, you can't take them apart to lube them or anything like that. The
Electrician can let you know if it's a wise choice to replace all Relays,
since 1 failing may be an indication of all wearing, corroding or fatiguing.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...u-1153449-.htm

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 19 Dec 2017 10:35:17 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

Normally the Generac generator feeds the whole house.
No fuse is tripped and I switched them all anyway (like everyone does).
What would make a generator only feed half the house? (if that)

At first it wouldn't go on automatically -

Didn't it come with an instruction manual that deals with this, at least
a tiny bit?

so that may be a clue.
I had to switch it to automatic from manual and after a dozen of those
switches, it went on automatically.

I'm wondering how to debug the transfer switch but I opened both up and
they seem to be the same with no moving parts.

Any ideas?

Like trader says, use a voltmeter. When you find the bad part, google
the part number and you may be able to find the exact replacement by the
same maker. If not, you still may be able to find the part online by its
name..

But if not, Generac might/should have it. Make sure the generator
isn't going to start when you're replacing the part.

A short story, my friend had an oven that was broken, maybe it was just
the light that didn't go on, and I got her to call my friend, who is an
electrician. He told her she needed some part or assembly and that he
couldn't get it, and he didn't charge her. She took the thing apart and
found the actual switch inside the assembly and bought it online for
much less money, because it wasn't the whole assembly. I don't know how
common such a situation is.

On Tuesday, December 19, 2017 at 5:35:25 AM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:
Normally the Generac generator feeds the whole house.
No fuse is tripped and I switched them all anyway (like everyone does).
What would make a generator only feed half the house? (if that)

At first it wouldn't go on automatically - so that may be a clue.
I had to switch it to automatic from manual and after a dozen of those
switches, it went on automatically.

I'm wondering how to debug the transfer switch but I opened both up and
they seem to be the same with no moving parts.

Any ideas?

domestic power in the US is usually delivered as split 240 V that provide 2 different 120 v circuits. If 1/2 your house is out, probably one of those two circuits is not working. That could be due to a fault in the transfer switch or a fault in the genny. if you had to ask that question, you should probably get someone to help you do the troubleshooting.

m

On Tue, 19 Dec 2017 05:25:10 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

Just get a meter and start tracing back the hot leg that has no voltage.

Just be aware that if there are any 240v loads there, it will have 120
to ground, even if the feed is open. I would start right at the inlet
from the transfer equipment, looking for 240v.

On Tue, 19 Dec 2017 10:35:17 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

Normally the Generac generator feeds the whole house.
No fuse is tripped and I switched them all anyway (like everyone does).
What would make a generator only feed half the house? (if that)

At first it wouldn't go on automatically - so that may be a clue.
I had to switch it to automatic from manual and after a dozen of those
switches, it went on automatically.

I'm wondering how to debug the transfer switch but I opened both up and
they seem to be the same with no moving parts.

Any ideas?
Check to make sure the generator is putting out 240 volts (120 on
each side, line to neutral) If it is, you have a transfer switch
problem. If not, you have a generator problem.

On 20/12/17 01:57, Colonel Edmund J. Burke wrote:
At first it wouldn't go on automatically - so that may be a clue.
I had to switch it to automatic from manual and after a dozen of those
switches, it went on automatically.

Thast is your best clue. Maybe the switch was dirty inside. Maybe it
had two sets of contacts, one fort each half of the house, and only one
set was dirty.

But I have a Ham Radio license. Power wiring is a closed book to me. I
would expect that the switches would pull in a relay, maybe two. You
need to call in a licensed electrician, one with a license for your
State, not a cheap Chinese one. Any unlicensed fiddling could void your
fire insurance. It may kill a few people too, but look at the more
important effect (in your eyes) first.

BTW, a guy with solar panels wanted a 12-volt line running from the
panels to a socket in the wall. It sounds like a good idea. The group
told him it was against the regulations, but he could see no reason not
to do it himself. I didn't have posting rights, or I would have told
him the same as above. It would void his fire insurance, as well as
earning himself a hefty fine or jail.

Doug.

On 21/12/17 01:04, BurfordTJustice wrote:
How is the inspector going to get in the house to see the 12v socket?
Did you email and rat him out?

Your house do as you wish.....

What do you tell the insurance company's loss adjuster? He will demand
a report from the electricity company, and any other relevant
investigations, e.g. for the Coroner.

On 21/12/17 01:04, BurfordTJustice wrote:
That is the price you pay for living in liberal run cities.

How is the inspector going to get in the house to see the 12v socket?
Did you email and rat him out?

Your house do as you wish.....


Until you kill somebody, either by electrocution or in the
conflagration that followed. A rash of house fires here were started
by skateboards with batteries that overheated while on charge. I
attended an inquest for a young married man who had no respect for 240
volts. He had one of those toolboxes with power points around the edge.
Somehow, he managed to get past the foolproof construction, and plug
in an extension cord socket first (I have no idea why.) Then he
grabbed the live pins.
Many installers of fibreglass insulation batts on a Govt contract died
when they drove wire fastenings through insulated mains wiring.

Maybe you have a right to kill yourself, but even if you don't care
about your family, you are supposed to get their permission before
killing them as well.


Doug.

On Wednesday, December 20, 2017 at 8:47:21 AM UTC-5, Doug Laidlaw wrote:
On 20/12/17 01:57, Colonel Edmund J. Burke wrote:
At first it wouldn't go on automatically - so that may be a clue.
I had to switch it to automatic from manual and after a dozen of those
switches, it went on automatically.

Thast is your best clue. Maybe the switch was dirty inside. Maybe it
had two sets of contacts, one fort each half of the house, and only one
set was dirty.

But I have a Ham Radio license. Power wiring is a closed book to me. I
would expect that the switches would pull in a relay, maybe two. You
need to call in a licensed electrician, one with a license for your
State, not a cheap Chinese one. Any unlicensed fiddling could void your
fire insurance. It may kill a few people too, but look at the more
important effect (in your eyes) first.

BTW, a guy with solar panels wanted a 12-volt line running from the
panels to a socket in the wall. It sounds like a good idea. The group
told him it was against the regulations, but he could see no reason not
to do it himself. I didn't have posting rights, or I would have told
him the same as above. It would void his fire insurance, as well as
earning himself a hefty fine or jail.

Doug.

Can you provide us with an actual example where a homeowner did their own repairs and where they used an unlicensed electrician and it voided their insurance policy? Or even where they refused to pay a claim? Also, are Chinese bad electricians? Doesn't even make sense as a bad stereotype.

On Thu, 21 Dec 2017 00:47:12 +1100, Doug Laidlaw
wrote:

On 20/12/17 01:57, Colonel Edmund J. Burke wrote:
At first it wouldn't go on automatically - so that may be a clue.
I had to switch it to automatic from manual and after a dozen of those
switches, it went on automatically.

Thast is your best clue. Maybe the switch was dirty inside. Maybe it
had two sets of contacts, one fort each half of the house, and only one
set was dirty.

But I have a Ham Radio license. Power wiring is a closed book to me. I
would expect that the switches would pull in a relay, maybe two. You
need to call in a licensed electrician, one with a license for your
State, not a cheap Chinese one. Any unlicensed fiddling could void your
fire insurance. It may kill a few people too, but look at the more
important effect (in your eyes) first.

BTW, a guy with solar panels wanted a 12-volt line running from the
panels to a socket in the wall. It sounds like a good idea. The group
told him it was against the regulations, but he could see no reason not
to do it himself. I didn't have posting rights, or I would have told
him the same as above. It would void his fire insurance, as well as
earning himself a hefty fine or jail.

Doug.
Not on 12 volts. on 54, perhaps.

"Doug Laidlaw" wrote in message news
On 21/12/17 01:04, BurfordTJustice wrote:
That is the price you pay for living in liberal run cities.

How is the inspector going to get in the house to see the 12v socket?
Did you email and rat him out?

Your house do as you wish.....


Until you kill somebody, either by electrocution or in the
conflagration that followed. A rash of house fires here were started
by skateboards with batteries that overheated while on charge. I
attended an inquest for a young married man who had no respect for 240
volts. He had one of those toolboxes with power points around the edge.
Somehow, he managed to get past the foolproof construction, and plug
in an extension cord socket first (I have no idea why.) Then he
grabbed the live pins.
Many installers of fibreglass insulation batts on a Govt contract died
when they drove wire fastenings through insulated mains wiring.

Maybe you have a right to kill yourself, but even if you don't care
about your family, you are supposed to get their permission before
killing them as well.


Doug.

its brattworst

On 21/12/17 02:19, Clare Snyder wrote:
BTW, a guy with solar panels wanted a 12-volt line running from the
panels to a socket in the wall. It sounds like a good idea. The group
told him it was against the regulations, but he could see no reason not
to do it himself. I didn't have posting rights, or I would have told
him the same as above. It would void his fire insurance, as well as
earning himself a hefty fine or jail.

Doug.
Not on 12 volts. on 54, perhaps.

He wanted 12 volts. I think that one panel may be 12 volts. We have 3
panels of 0.5 KW each. According to the indoor label, the open circuit
voltage from them is 267 volts D.C. He may have been in for a BIG
surprise!!

1.5 Kw wouldn't run a 2 Kw radiator, but our panels are complementary to
the mains. Our average power usage until then was 0.7 Kw. Any excess
generated is fed back into the grid.

Doug.

On Thu, 21 Dec 2017 03:48:52 +1100, Doug Laidlaw
wrote:

On 21/12/17 02:19, Clare Snyder wrote:
BTW, a guy with solar panels wanted a 12-volt line running from the
panels to a socket in the wall. It sounds like a good idea. The group
told him it was against the regulations, but he could see no reason not
to do it himself. I didn't have posting rights, or I would have told
him the same as above. It would void his fire insurance, as well as
earning himself a hefty fine or jail.

Doug.
Not on 12 volts. on 54, perhaps.

He wanted 12 volts. I think that one panel may be 12 volts. We have 3
panels of 0.5 KW each. According to the indoor label, the open circuit
voltage from them is 267 volts D.C. He may have been in for a BIG
surprise!!

1.5 Kw wouldn't run a 2 Kw radiator, but our panels are complementary to
the mains. Our average power usage until then was 0.7 Kw. Any excess
generated is fed back into the grid.

Doug.
If it's a 12 volt line it won't be 267 volts.
If it's 12 volts it won't electrocute anyone, and if it's lkess than
50 volts it is considered "low voltage" by the NEC (I believe it is 36
volts in Canadian code) and is pretty much "unregulated".
"Low Voltage" lighting circuits donot require a permitor a licensed
electrician. (as long as the supply is limittes to some insane level
like 1000VA)

On Wednesday, December 20, 2017 at 8:48:48 AM UTC-6, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, December 20, 2017 at 8:47:21 AM UTC-5, Doug Laidlaw wrote:
On 20/12/17 01:57, Colonel Edmund J. Burke wrote:
At first it wouldn't go on automatically - so that may be a clue.
I had to switch it to automatic from manual and after a dozen of those
switches, it went on automatically.

Thast is your best clue. Maybe the switch was dirty inside. Maybe it
had two sets of contacts, one fort each half of the house, and only one
set was dirty.

But I have a Ham Radio license. Power wiring is a closed book to me. I
would expect that the switches would pull in a relay, maybe two. You
need to call in a licensed electrician, one with a license for your
State, not a cheap Chinese one. Any unlicensed fiddling could void your
fire insurance. It may kill a few people too, but look at the more
important effect (in your eyes) first.

BTW, a guy with solar panels wanted a 12-volt line running from the
panels to a socket in the wall. It sounds like a good idea. The group
told him it was against the regulations, but he could see no reason not
to do it himself. I didn't have posting rights, or I would have told
him the same as above. It would void his fire insurance, as well as
earning himself a hefty fine or jail.

Doug.

Can you provide us with an actual example where a homeowner did their own repairs and where they used an unlicensed electrician and it voided their insurance policy? Or even where they refused to pay a claim? Also, are Chinese bad electricians? Doesn't even make sense as a bad stereotype.


He's a racist *******! snicker ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Observant Monster

"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
...

On Thu, 21 Dec 2017 03:48:52 +1100, Doug Laidlaw
wrote:

On 21/12/17 02:19, Clare Snyder wrote:
BTW, a guy with solar panels wanted a 12-volt line running from the
panels to a socket in the wall. It sounds like a good idea. The group
told him it was against the regulations, but he could see no reason not
to do it himself. I didn't have posting rights, or I would have told
him the same as above. It would void his fire insurance, as well as
earning himself a hefty fine or jail.

Doug.
Not on 12 volts. on 54, perhaps.

He wanted 12 volts. I think that one panel may be 12 volts. We have 3
panels of 0.5 KW each. According to the indoor label, the open circuit
voltage from them is 267 volts D.C. He may have been in for a BIG
surprise!!

1.5 Kw wouldn't run a 2 Kw radiator, but our panels are complementary to
the mains. Our average power usage until then was 0.7 Kw. Any excess
generated is fed back into the grid.

Doug.
If it's a 12 volt line it won't be 267 volts.
If it's 12 volts it won't electrocute anyone, and if it's lkess than
50 volts it is considered "low voltage" by the NEC (I believe it is 36
volts in Canadian code) and is pretty much "unregulated".
"Low Voltage" lighting circuits donot require a permitor a licensed
electrician. (as long as the supply is limittes to some insane level
like 1000VA)

I've already been.

On Thu, 21 Dec 2017 01:00:23 -0600, "David" wrote:

If it's a 12 volt line it won't be 267 volts.
If it's 12 volts it won't electrocute anyone, and if it's lkess than
50 volts it is considered "low voltage" by the NEC (I believe it is 36
volts in Canadian code) and is pretty much "unregulated".
"Low Voltage" lighting circuits donot require a permitor a licensed
electrician. (as long as the supply is limittes to some insane level
like 1000VA)


"Low voltage" is not really defined in the NEC. It may mean less than
600 volts in general wiring circuits. If we are actually talking about
what most people consider low voltage, it is 15 volts in things like
pool and landscape lights and 30v in other control and signaling
circuits.
This really gets defined in article 725 and has more to do with
available current than voltage but this is what most people think of
when they say low voltage.
Class 1 circuits are the ones that can go up to 1000va but they also
have to use 600v rated wiring methods and look pretty much like your
regular line voltage wiring. In fact you can run class 1 circuits in
the same raceway as line voltage,
Class 2 is the 30v or less, current limited power supply circuits that
you can use bell wire on and get away with lots of other stuff.
Class 3 is still current limited but higher voltage and wired similar
to class 2.

These are all still regulated by the NEC tho and a lot of
jurisdictions are finally getting serious about enforcement. Florida
has a specialty license for low voltage installers that includes
communication circuits, landscape lighting, sprinklers and other
similar stuff. That mostly affects "for hire" services but some AHJs
want a homeowner to get a permit, even for low voltage.
They just want the money I suppose. They are the same ones who say you
should get a permit to replace a wall switch.

I am an inspector and I call bull**** on that.