I have 120psi water pressure at my house and am having a hard time
getting a complete seal on the water connections of my tub faucet.
I had to use a couple of brass adapters to go from a 1/2" copper line to a
3/4" brass connection, so I have more joints than usual. I am using teflon
tape on all the joints and keep getting a little seepage around the joints.
The previous connections on the old faucet with 1/2" connectors were what I
think are called slip joints, using cone-shaped rubber washer. The brass
fittings do not have any kind of compression joint or washer to seal off the
water, except on the end that connects to the copper line, where a
compression ring seems to be sealing just fine. The other connections
depend on the sealant on the threads. Should I be using permanent pipe
sealer at the threads that do not connect directly to the faucet and the
water line? Or is there something better than teflon tape that I should
use on the joints? I am wrapping about 2 layers of the teflon tape around
the male connectors, starting at the first threads of each joint.

On 3/18/17 8:22 AM, Joe Mayer wrote:
I have 120psi water pressure at my house and am having a hard time
getting a complete seal on the water connections of my tub faucet.
I had to use a couple of brass adapters to go from a 1/2" copper line to a
3/4" brass connection, so I have more joints than usual. I am using teflon
tape on all the joints and keep getting a little seepage around the joints.
The previous connections on the old faucet with 1/2" connectors were what I
think are called slip joints, using cone-shaped rubber washer. The brass
fittings do not have any kind of compression joint or washer to seal off
the
water, except on the end that connects to the copper line, where a
compression ring seems to be sealing just fine. The other connections
depend on the sealant on the threads. Should I be using permanent pipe
sealer at the threads that do not connect directly to the faucet and the
water line? Or is there something better than teflon tape that I should
use on the joints? I am wrapping about 2 layers of the teflon tape around
the male connectors, starting at the first threads of each joint.


Install a pressure reducer, dude! You're running twice what you should be...

--
Never kick a cow chip on a hot day.

On Saturday, March 18, 2017 at 8:22:19 AM UTC-4, Joe Mayer wrote:
I have 120psi water pressure at my house and am having a hard time
getting a complete seal on the water connections of my tub faucet.
I had to use a couple of brass adapters to go from a 1/2" copper line to a
3/4" brass connection, so I have more joints than usual. I am using teflon
tape on all the joints and keep getting a little seepage around the joints.
The previous connections on the old faucet with 1/2" connectors were what I
think are called slip joints, using cone-shaped rubber washer. The brass
fittings do not have any kind of compression joint or washer to seal off the
water, except on the end that connects to the copper line, where a
compression ring seems to be sealing just fine. The other connections
depend on the sealant on the threads. Should I be using permanent pipe
sealer at the threads that do not connect directly to the faucet and the
water line? Or is there something better than teflon tape that I should
use on the joints? I am wrapping about 2 layers of the teflon tape around
the male connectors, starting at the first threads of each joint.

Most household fixtures are not rated for120 PSI. Besides havering trouble with your
fittings, I'm surprised that you aren't damaging your fixtures.

Have you considered a Pressure Reducing Valve to bring the pressure down to something
reasonable, like 60 PSI?

On 3/18/2017 7:22 AM, Joe Mayer wrote:
I have 120psi water pressure at my house and am having a hard time
getting a complete seal on the water connections of my tub faucet.
I had to use a couple of brass adapters to go from a 1/2" copper line to a
3/4" brass connection, so I have more joints than usual. I am using teflon
tape on all the joints and keep getting a little seepage around the joints.
The previous connections on the old faucet with 1/2" connectors were what I
think are called slip joints, using cone-shaped rubber washer. The brass
fittings do not have any kind of compression joint or washer to seal off
the
water, except on the end that connects to the copper line, where a
compression ring seems to be sealing just fine. The other connections
depend on the sealant on the threads. Should I be using permanent pipe
sealer at the threads that do not connect directly to the faucet and the
water line? Or is there something better than teflon tape that I should
use on the joints? I am wrapping about 2 layers of the teflon tape around
the male connectors, starting at the first threads of each joint.

Everybody immediately jumps up and tells you that you
have to have a pressure reducer. I have 120 psi water pressure
and have had hardly any problems. I have one hose bib that I
have a problem keeping washers in, but that hose bib is over
50 years old, and I suspect it just needs to be replaced.
So don't get in a swivet over people telling you what you
absolutely have to do.

As far as the leaks, you might try using the liquid pipe dope.
Put on a good thick coat and screw the threads up tight.

Bill

On 3/18/2017 8:22 AM, Joe Mayer wrote:
I have 120psi water pressure at my house and am having a hard time
getting a complete seal on the water connections of my tub faucet.
I had to use a couple of brass adapters to go from a 1/2" copper line to a
3/4" brass connection, so I have more joints than usual. I am using teflon
tape on all the joints and keep getting a little seepage around the joints.
The previous connections on the old faucet with 1/2" connectors were what I
think are called slip joints, using cone-shaped rubber washer. The brass
fittings do not have any kind of compression joint or washer to seal off
the
water, except on the end that connects to the copper line, where a
compression ring seems to be sealing just fine. The other connections
depend on the sealant on the threads. Should I be using permanent pipe
sealer at the threads that do not connect directly to the faucet and the
water line? Or is there something better than teflon tape that I should
use on the joints? I am wrapping about 2 layers of the teflon tape around
the male connectors, starting at the first threads of each joint.


Step 1: Install a Pressure Reducer. No reason to be above 60 or so
PSI. Most are about 50 PSI

The leaks are not due to pressure, a proper joint can easily handle it.
Make sure the connections are clean, no dents or dings, tape is wrapped
properly.

On 3/18/2017 5:22 AM, Joe Mayer wrote:
I have 120psi water pressure at my house and am having a hard time
getting a complete seal on the water connections of my tub faucet.


Yer pressure is way too high; you could blow a cork.

On Sat, 18 Mar 2017 08:11:34 -0500, Bill Gill
wrote:

On 3/18/2017 7:22 AM, Joe Mayer wrote:
I have 120psi water pressure at my house and am having a hard time
getting a complete seal on the water connections of my tub faucet.
I had to use a couple of brass adapters to go from a 1/2" copper line to a
3/4" brass connection, so I have more joints than usual. I am using teflon
tape on all the joints and keep getting a little seepage around the joints.
The previous connections on the old faucet with 1/2" connectors were what I
think are called slip joints, using cone-shaped rubber washer. The brass
fittings do not have any kind of compression joint or washer to seal off
the
water, except on the end that connects to the copper line, where a
compression ring seems to be sealing just fine. The other connections
depend on the sealant on the threads. Should I be using permanent pipe
sealer at the threads that do not connect directly to the faucet and the
water line? Or is there something better than teflon tape that I should
use on the joints? I am wrapping about 2 layers of the teflon tape around
the male connectors, starting at the first threads of each joint.

Everybody immediately jumps up and tells you that you
have to have a pressure reducer. I have 120 psi water pressure
and have had hardly any problems. I have one hose bib that I
have a problem keeping washers in, but that hose bib is over
50 years old, and I suspect it just needs to be replaced.
So don't get in a swivet over people telling you what you
absolutely have to do.

As far as the leaks, you might try using the liquid pipe dope.
Put on a good thick coat and screw the threads up tight.

Bill
I used the liquid teflon pipe dope on those fittings in my bathroom
last week - and the fittings leaked. The heavy (pink) teflon tape
would likely be a better choice. I solved my problem with regular
teflon tape.

On Sat, 18 Mar 2017 09:27:07 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 3/18/2017 8:22 AM, Joe Mayer wrote:
I have 120psi water pressure at my house and am having a hard time
getting a complete seal on the water connections of my tub faucet.
I had to use a couple of brass adapters to go from a 1/2" copper line to a
3/4" brass connection, so I have more joints than usual. I am using teflon
tape on all the joints and keep getting a little seepage around the joints.
The previous connections on the old faucet with 1/2" connectors were what I
think are called slip joints, using cone-shaped rubber washer. The brass
fittings do not have any kind of compression joint or washer to seal off
the
water, except on the end that connects to the copper line, where a
compression ring seems to be sealing just fine. The other connections
depend on the sealant on the threads. Should I be using permanent pipe
sealer at the threads that do not connect directly to the faucet and the
water line? Or is there something better than teflon tape that I should
use on the joints? I am wrapping about 2 layers of the teflon tape around
the male connectors, starting at the first threads of each joint.


Step 1: Install a Pressure Reducer. No reason to be above 60 or so
PSI. Most are about 50 PSI

The leaks are not due to pressure, a proper joint can easily handle it.
Make sure the connections are clean, no dents or dings, tape is wrapped
properly.
And NEVER use "compression fittings" - you know, the ones with the
brass "olive" that gets cranked onto the pipe by turning the
compression nut. They WILL seepwhen used on hard copper lines - almost
guaranteed. You might never see a drip, but months later the
connection is all green.

On 03/18/2017 07:37 AM, Wade Garrett wrote:
On 3/18/17 8:22 AM, Joe Mayer wrote:
I have 120psi water pressure at my house and am having a hard time
getting a complete seal on the water connections of my tub faucet.
I had to use a couple of brass adapters to go from a 1/2" copper line
to a
3/4" brass connection, so I have more joints than usual. I am using
teflon
tape on all the joints and keep getting a little seepage around the
joints.
The previous connections on the old faucet with 1/2" connectors were
what I
think are called slip joints, using cone-shaped rubber washer. The brass
fittings do not have any kind of compression joint or washer to seal off
the
water, except on the end that connects to the copper line, where a
compression ring seems to be sealing just fine. The other connections
depend on the sealant on the threads. Should I be using permanent pipe
sealer at the threads that do not connect directly to the faucet and the
water line? Or is there something better than teflon tape that I should
use on the joints? I am wrapping about 2 layers of the teflon tape
around
the male connectors, starting at the first threads of each joint.


Install a pressure reducer, dude! You're running twice what you should
be...




That was the first thing I thought.

120 PSI is insane

On Saturday, March 18, 2017 at 9:11:32 AM UTC-4, Bill Gill wrote:
On 3/18/2017 7:22 AM, Joe Mayer wrote:
I have 120psi water pressure at my house and am having a hard time
getting a complete seal on the water connections of my tub faucet.
I had to use a couple of brass adapters to go from a 1/2" copper line to a
3/4" brass connection, so I have more joints than usual. I am using teflon
tape on all the joints and keep getting a little seepage around the joints.
The previous connections on the old faucet with 1/2" connectors were what I
think are called slip joints, using cone-shaped rubber washer. The brass
fittings do not have any kind of compression joint or washer to seal off
the
water, except on the end that connects to the copper line, where a
compression ring seems to be sealing just fine. The other connections
depend on the sealant on the threads. Should I be using permanent pipe
sealer at the threads that do not connect directly to the faucet and the
water line? Or is there something better than teflon tape that I should
use on the joints? I am wrapping about 2 layers of the teflon tape around
the male connectors, starting at the first threads of each joint.

Everybody immediately jumps up and tells you that you
have to have a pressure reducer. I have 120 psi water pressure
and have had hardly any problems. I have one hose bib that I
have a problem keeping washers in, but that hose bib is over
50 years old, and I suspect it just needs to be replaced.
So don't get in a swivet over people telling you what you
absolutely have to do.

As far as the leaks, you might try using the liquid pipe dope.
Put on a good thick coat and screw the threads up tight.

Bill

I agree that the pressure, while higher than normal, higher than
I would ever have, isn't the source of his problem. And there are
some mysteries there, like why there is a washer or seal of some
kind when going from copper to brass. Teflon tape should work,
but I also agree with your suggestion of trying pipe dope instead.
More likely, he's doing something wrong, like not making them up
tight enough.

On Saturday, March 18, 2017 at 9:11:32 AM UTC-4, Bill Gill wrote:
On 3/18/2017 7:22 AM, Joe Mayer wrote:
I have 120psi water pressure at my house and am having a hard time
getting a complete seal on the water connections of my tub faucet.
I had to use a couple of brass adapters to go from a 1/2" copper line to a
3/4" brass connection, so I have more joints than usual. I am using teflon
tape on all the joints and keep getting a little seepage around the joints.
The previous connections on the old faucet with 1/2" connectors were what I
think are called slip joints, using cone-shaped rubber washer. The brass
fittings do not have any kind of compression joint or washer to seal off
the
water, except on the end that connects to the copper line, where a
compression ring seems to be sealing just fine. The other connections
depend on the sealant on the threads. Should I be using permanent pipe
sealer at the threads that do not connect directly to the faucet and the
water line? Or is there something better than teflon tape that I should
use on the joints? I am wrapping about 2 layers of the teflon tape around
the male connectors, starting at the first threads of each joint.

Everybody immediately jumps up and tells you that you
have to have a pressure reducer. I have 120 psi water pressure
and have had hardly any problems. I have one hose bib that I
have a problem keeping washers in, but that hose bib is over
50 years old, and I suspect it just needs to be replaced.
So don't get in a swivet over people telling you what you
absolutely have to do.

As far as the leaks, you might try using the liquid pipe dope.
Put on a good thick coat and screw the threads up tight.

Bill

You will note that I mentioned fixtures in my response. I acknowledged
that the OP was have problems with his fittings, but I did not say that
the 120 PSI was the cause of the problems.

My point was that 120 PSI pressure can cause problems with many fixtures,
from toilet fill valves to washing machine solenoids.

If this site is correct, then the Uniform Plumbing Code requires PRV in
specific situations.

"The Uniform Plumbing Code and PRV

The Uniform Plumbing Code requires a PRV be installed if the water
pressure exceeds 80 PSI at the time the home is built, or for any
inspection of a plumbing task that involves a water test thereafter
resulting in high-pressure. "

http://ogradyplumbing.com/blog/under...ater-pressure/

If a PRV is required at 80 PSI for new builds and inspections, then
a PRV makes sense in *any* situation where the pressure exceeds 80 PSI.

One could argue that in older homes, a PRV is even more important because
fixtures and/or fittings may not meet the more stringent modern codes.

On Sat, 18 Mar 2017 09:09:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Everybody immediately jumps up and tells you that you
have to have a pressure reducer. I have 120 psi water pressure
and have had hardly any problems. I have one hose bib that I
have a problem keeping washers in, but that hose bib is over
50 years old, and I suspect it just needs to be replaced.
So don't get in a swivet over people telling you what you
absolutely have to do.

As far as the leaks, you might try using the liquid pipe dope.
Put on a good thick coat and screw the threads up tight.

Bill

You will note that I mentioned fixtures in my response. I acknowledged
that the OP was have problems with his fittings, but I did not say that
the 120 PSI was the cause of the problems.

My point was that 120 PSI pressure can cause problems with many fixtures,
from toilet fill valves to washing machine solenoids.

If this site is correct, then the Uniform Plumbing Code requires PRV in
specific situations.

"The Uniform Plumbing Code and PRV

The Uniform Plumbing Code requires a PRV be installed if the water
pressure exceeds 80 PSI at the time the home is built, or for any
inspection of a plumbing task that involves a water test thereafter
resulting in high-pressure. "

http://ogradyplumbing.com/blog/under...ater-pressure/

If a PRV is required at 80 PSI for new builds and inspections, then
a PRV makes sense in *any* situation where the pressure exceeds 80 PSI.

One could argue that in older homes, a PRV is even more important because
fixtures and/or fittings may not meet the more stringent modern codes.

I agree. When I sold a rental property the home inspector said the
water pressure was to high ~ 85 PSI. He gigged me and stated I needed
a PRV installed. The house didn't have one. I opened all the faucets,
hose bibs, ran the water, dishwasher, etc. -- took pressure out of the
pipes and then took my own reading at a hose bib ~ 20 feet from the
street meter.. Argued the inspector had a faulty meter gauge. Buyer
accepted that so nothing was needed. The pressure had been tested
during the day when most folks were at work so pressure would be high.
Release that pressure and you get a different reading. At least in my
case it did. Would 120 PSI blow a PRV on a water heater? I don't
know.

On Mon, 20 Mar 2017 11:40:07 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sat, 18 Mar 2017 09:09:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Everybody immediately jumps up and tells you that you
have to have a pressure reducer. I have 120 psi water pressure
and have had hardly any problems. I have one hose bib that I
have a problem keeping washers in, but that hose bib is over
50 years old, and I suspect it just needs to be replaced.
So don't get in a swivet over people telling you what you
absolutely have to do.

As far as the leaks, you might try using the liquid pipe dope.
Put on a good thick coat and screw the threads up tight.

Bill

You will note that I mentioned fixtures in my response. I acknowledged
that the OP was have problems with his fittings, but I did not say that
the 120 PSI was the cause of the problems.

My point was that 120 PSI pressure can cause problems with many fixtures,
from toilet fill valves to washing machine solenoids.

If this site is correct, then the Uniform Plumbing Code requires PRV in
specific situations.

"The Uniform Plumbing Code and PRV

The Uniform Plumbing Code requires a PRV be installed if the water
pressure exceeds 80 PSI at the time the home is built, or for any
inspection of a plumbing task that involves a water test thereafter
resulting in high-pressure. "

http://ogradyplumbing.com/blog/under...ater-pressure/

If a PRV is required at 80 PSI for new builds and inspections, then
a PRV makes sense in *any* situation where the pressure exceeds 80 PSI.

One could argue that in older homes, a PRV is even more important because
fixtures and/or fittings may not meet the more stringent modern codes.

I agree. When I sold a rental property the home inspector said the
water pressure was to high ~ 85 PSI. He gigged me and stated I needed
a PRV installed. The house didn't have one. I opened all the faucets,
hose bibs, ran the water, dishwasher, etc. -- took pressure out of the
pipes and then took my own reading at a hose bib ~ 20 feet from the
street meter.. Argued the inspector had a faulty meter gauge. Buyer
accepted that so nothing was needed. The pressure had been tested
during the day when most folks were at work so pressure would be high.
Release that pressure and you get a different reading. At least in my
case it did. Would 120 PSI blow a PRV on a water heater? I don't
know.
Typical PRV on water heater is set to 150psi, so no, 120psi water
pressure will not cause the water heater valve to release.

On Monday, March 20, 2017 at 1:40:18 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 18 Mar 2017 09:09:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Everybody immediately jumps up and tells you that you
have to have a pressure reducer. I have 120 psi water pressure
and have had hardly any problems. I have one hose bib that I
have a problem keeping washers in, but that hose bib is over
50 years old, and I suspect it just needs to be replaced.
So don't get in a swivet over people telling you what you
absolutely have to do.

As far as the leaks, you might try using the liquid pipe dope.
Put on a good thick coat and screw the threads up tight.

Bill

You will note that I mentioned fixtures in my response. I acknowledged
that the OP was have problems with his fittings, but I did not say that
the 120 PSI was the cause of the problems.

My point was that 120 PSI pressure can cause problems with many fixtures,
from toilet fill valves to washing machine solenoids.

If this site is correct, then the Uniform Plumbing Code requires PRV in
specific situations.

"The Uniform Plumbing Code and PRV

The Uniform Plumbing Code requires a PRV be installed if the water
pressure exceeds 80 PSI at the time the home is built, or for any
inspection of a plumbing task that involves a water test thereafter
resulting in high-pressure. "

http://ogradyplumbing.com/blog/under...ater-pressure/

If a PRV is required at 80 PSI for new builds and inspections, then
a PRV makes sense in *any* situation where the pressure exceeds 80 PSI.

One could argue that in older homes, a PRV is even more important because
fixtures and/or fittings may not meet the more stringent modern codes.

I agree. When I sold a rental property the home inspector said the
water pressure was to high ~ 85 PSI. He gigged me and stated I needed
a PRV installed. The house didn't have one. I opened all the faucets,
hose bibs, ran the water, dishwasher, etc. -- took pressure out of the
pipes and then took my own reading at a hose bib ~ 20 feet from the
street meter.. Argued the inspector had a faulty meter gauge. Buyer
accepted that so nothing was needed. The pressure had been tested
during the day when most folks were at work so pressure would be high.
Release that pressure and you get a different reading. At least in my
case it did. Would 120 PSI blow a PRV on a water heater? I don't
know.

In my experience, when the water pressure feeding a home or business gets over 80psi, the safety valve on the water heater can leak because of water hammer. The pressure pulses when water is turned off can exceed 150psi and the valve will leak a bit. The more times it happens, it can deteriorate the valve sealing surfaces. I've had to install Watts pressure regulators in homes and businesses where the water pressure was too high. The regulators are set at 50psi at the factory and that's where I always left it. In a home, the pressure relief valve on the water heater will dribble and the faucet seals plus toilet tank valve can leak. In a business like a restaurant or convenience store, the high pressure and pulses not only damage the pressure relief valve on the water heater but the Sloan flush valves in the restrooms. Also the solenoid valves in ice machines, soft drink dispensing machines, dish washing machines and water cooled refrigeration units can be affected.

We had one customer who owned a night club wind up with a $1,000.00 water bill one month because of a leaking toilet. The dumbass employees didn't inform the owner about it. The water pressure was in excess of 100psi going into the building and we installed a pressure regulator to bring it down to 50psi. I've seen a business that had 120psi water pressure coming in and spikes in excess of 200psi. It was damaging all sorts of things in the convenience store. It turned out that the existing pressure regulator had failed. It was an inch and a half water line coming in and we found the regulator inside a wall under a sink. Me and my brother had a lot of fun fixing that one. ヽ(€¢€¿€¢)ノ

[8~{} Uncle Sink Monster

On Sat, 18 Mar 2017 10:11:26 -0500, philo wrote:



That was the first thing I thought.

120 PSI is insane

What this idiot dont realize is that if there is a huge fire in the
area, the water pressure will drop while the Fire Dept has open
hydrants. As soon as they shut the last hydrant, that pressure will
increase to over 200psi for a few seconds. At that time, weak pipes will
balloon, weak joints will explode apart, wash machine hoses will
rupture, valves will fail, toilet tanks may shatter, and water heaters &
boiler tanks may explode if the PRV is not working properly.

On Mon, 20 Mar 2017 17:50:04 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:


In my experience, when the water pressure feeding a home or business gets over 80psi, the safety valve on the water heater can leak because of water hammer. The pressure pulses when water is turned off can exceed 150psi and the valve will leak a bit. The more times it happens, it can deteriorate the valve sealing surfaces. I've had to install Watts pressure regulators in homes and businesses where the water pressure was too high. The regulators are set at 50psi at the factory and that's where I always left it. In a home, the pressure relief valve on the water heater will dribble and the faucet seals plus toilet tank valve can leak. In a business like a restaurant or convenience store, the high pressure and pulses not only damage the pressure relief valve on the water heater but the Sloan flush valves in the restrooms. Also the solenoid valves in ice machines, soft drink dispensing machines, dish washing machines and water cooled refrigeration units can be affected.

We had one customer who owned a night club wind up with a $1,000.00 water bill one month because of a leaking toilet. The dumbass employees didn't inform the owner about it. The water pressure was in excess of 100psi going into the building and we installed a pressure regulator to bring it down to 50psi. I've seen a business that had 120psi water pressure coming in and spikes in excess of 200psi. It was damaging all sorts of things in the convenience store. It turned out that the existing pressure regulator had failed. It was an inch and a half water line coming in and we found the regulator inside a wall under a sink. Me and my brother had a lot of fun fixing that one. ?(•?•)?

[8~{} Uncle Sink Monster

Last month our water heater took a dump, started leaking, I figure
internally.. Lucky I had just stepped into the garage. Shut the ball
valve off and went inside to tell the bride how lucky we were on Super
Bowl Sunday She was on the phone to her friend standing at the
kitchen sick. Heard her say the sink faucet just started dripping and
leaking. I opened it, closed it and it stopped. Told her to buy a new
water heater (jokingly). We have a PEX manifold system. I guess, only
a guess, the pressure reversed and water passed via the faucet
somehow. Replaced the heater and had to open the kitchen faucet after
to let all the air in the lines out. Still don't know why the faucet
dripped, but it hasn't happened since. It was a one time thing. Maybe
something to do with the PEX manifold.

On Saturday, March 18, 2017 at 8:22:19 AM UTC-4, Joe Mayer wrote:
I have 120psi water pressure at my house and am having a hard time
getting a complete seal on the water connections of my tub faucet.

120 PSI may be a problem for applicances but it shouldn't matter on a pipe thread connection.

Teflon tape is fine, if wrapped carefully in the right direction. I've had better luck with tape than dope. YMMV.

My guess, you need a bigger wrench.

Tape and one more turn than you think.

On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 19:25:04 GMT, "Tekkie®"
wrote:

Sorry, no ff will slam any valves shut. Please cite an example of your post.

+1 It happens slowly, little at a time from what I've seen. The
Painted Cow was in his/her/its usual _I hate everything mode_.

The local FD inspected our fire hydrants for operation, opened them
but that never damaged anything in my house. But I do have a PRV in
the garage.