On Monday, March 20, 2017 at 1:40:18 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 18 Mar 2017 09:09:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:
Everybody immediately jumps up and tells you that you
have to have a pressure reducer. I have 120 psi water pressure
and have had hardly any problems. I have one hose bib that I
have a problem keeping washers in, but that hose bib is over
50 years old, and I suspect it just needs to be replaced.
So don't get in a swivet over people telling you what you
absolutely have to do.
As far as the leaks, you might try using the liquid pipe dope.
Put on a good thick coat and screw the threads up tight.
Bill
You will note that I mentioned fixtures in my response. I acknowledged
that the OP was have problems with his fittings, but I did not say that
the 120 PSI was the cause of the problems.
My point was that 120 PSI pressure can cause problems with many fixtures,
from toilet fill valves to washing machine solenoids.
If this site is correct, then the Uniform Plumbing Code requires PRV in
specific situations.
"The Uniform Plumbing Code and PRV
The Uniform Plumbing Code requires a PRV be installed if the water
pressure exceeds 80 PSI at the time the home is built, or for any
inspection of a plumbing task that involves a water test thereafter
resulting in high-pressure. "
http://ogradyplumbing.com/blog/under...ater-pressure/
If a PRV is required at 80 PSI for new builds and inspections, then
a PRV makes sense in *any* situation where the pressure exceeds 80 PSI.
One could argue that in older homes, a PRV is even more important because
fixtures and/or fittings may not meet the more stringent modern codes.
I agree. When I sold a rental property the home inspector said the
water pressure was to high ~ 85 PSI. He gigged me and stated I needed
a PRV installed. The house didn't have one. I opened all the faucets,
hose bibs, ran the water, dishwasher, etc. -- took pressure out of the
pipes and then took my own reading at a hose bib ~ 20 feet from the
street meter.. Argued the inspector had a faulty meter gauge. Buyer
accepted that so nothing was needed. The pressure had been tested
during the day when most folks were at work so pressure would be high.
Release that pressure and you get a different reading. At least in my
case it did. Would 120 PSI blow a PRV on a water heater? I don't
know.
In my experience, when the water pressure feeding a home or business gets over 80psi, the safety valve on the water heater can leak because of water hammer. The pressure pulses when water is turned off can exceed 150psi and the valve will leak a bit. The more times it happens, it can deteriorate the valve sealing surfaces. I've had to install Watts pressure regulators in homes and businesses where the water pressure was too high. The regulators are set at 50psi at the factory and that's where I always left it. In a home, the pressure relief valve on the water heater will dribble and the faucet seals plus toilet tank valve can leak. In a business like a restaurant or convenience store, the high pressure and pulses not only damage the pressure relief valve on the water heater but the Sloan flush valves in the restrooms. Also the solenoid valves in ice machines, soft drink dispensing machines, dish washing machines and water cooled refrigeration units can be affected.
We had one customer who owned a night club wind up with a $1,000.00 water bill one month because of a leaking toilet. The dumbass employees didn't inform the owner about it. The water pressure was in excess of 100psi going into the building and we installed a pressure regulator to bring it down to 50psi. I've seen a business that had 120psi water pressure coming in and spikes in excess of 200psi. It was damaging all sorts of things in the convenience store. It turned out that the existing pressure regulator had failed. It was an inch and a half water line coming in and we found the regulator inside a wall under a sink. Me and my brother had a lot of fun fixing that one. ヽ(€¢€¿€¢)ノ
[8~{} Uncle Sink Monster