The temperature in my house is 70 degrees.

On the thermostat:

Â* Â*the HEAT-OFF-COOL switch is on the "HEAT" position
Â* Â*the FAN switch is on the "AUTO" position

The thermostat's "heat" setpoint is 82 degrees but the furnace doesn't come on for a long time (hours).

When I press the thermostat's UP/DOWN buttons until the temperature reading is 82 degrees, the furnace still doesn't come on for a long time (hours).

What's wrong?

Or should I go back to a manual (non-programmable) thermostat?

On Wednesday, January 18, 2017 at 1:03:36 PM UTC-5, home owner wrote:
The temperature in my house is 70 degrees.

On the thermostat:

Â* Â*the HEAT-OFF-COOL switch is on the "HEAT" position
Â* Â*the FAN switch is on the "AUTO" position

The thermostat's "heat" setpoint is 82 degrees but the furnace doesn't come on for a long time (hours).

When I press the thermostat's UP/DOWN buttons until the temperature reading is 82 degrees, the furnace still doesn't come on for a long time (hours)..

What's wrong?

Or should I go back to a manual (non-programmable) thermostat?

It would help if you told us the make and model of the thermostat.
Does it have a battery? Have the correct ones in there, installed
in the right direction? Have it wired up correctly?

The odd part here is that you are implying that it does turn on
the furnace hours later, which means it could be a programming
thing. But I've never seen a thermostat that would display 82
and with the house at 70, not turn on the furnace, regardless of
the programming.

On Wed, 18 Jan 2017 10:24:41 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Wednesday, January 18, 2017 at 1:03:36 PM UTC-5, home owner wrote:
The temperature in my house is 70 degrees.

On the thermostat:

* *the HEAT-OFF-COOL switch is on the "HEAT" position
* *the FAN switch is on the "AUTO" position

The thermostat's "heat" setpoint is 82 degrees but the furnace doesn't come on for a long time (hours).

When I press the thermostat's UP/DOWN buttons until the temperature reading is 82 degrees, the furnace still doesn't come on for a long time (hours).

What's wrong?

Or should I go back to a manual (non-programmable) thermostat?

It would help if you told us the make and model of the thermostat.
Does it have a battery? Have the correct ones in there, installed
in the right direction? Have it wired up correctly?

The odd part here is that you are implying that it does turn on
the furnace hours later, which means it could be a programming
thing. But I've never seen a thermostat that would display 82
and with the house at 70, not turn on the furnace, regardless of
the programming.

Has there been a power interruption, surge or nearby lightning?
Perhaps the EPROM is corrupted and a manual factory reset is
necessary. Setting it back to defaults.

Totaline P474-1035

The two AA batteries were replaced two weeks ago. They are installed correctly.

There's been no power interruptions, surges or nearby lightning.

Totaline P474-1035

The two AA batteries were replaced and installed correctly two weeks ago.

The red light on the thermostat is on all the time.

There's been no power interruptions, surges or nearby lightning.

On 1/18/2017 12:09 PM, home owner wrote:
Totaline P474-1035

The two AA batteries were replaced and installed correctly two weeks ago.

The red light on the thermostat is on all the time.

There's been no power interruptions, surges or nearby lightning.



can you try to bypass the thermostat and see if the problem is with the
furnace?

Oren

The user manual doesn't say how to set the thermostat back to factory defaults.

On 1/18/2017 3:24 PM, Taxed and Spent wrote:
On 1/18/2017 12:09 PM, home owner wrote:
Totaline P474-1035

The two AA batteries were replaced and installed correctly two weeks ago.

The red light on the thermostat is on all the time.

There's been no power interruptions, surges or nearby lightning.



can you try to bypass the thermostat and see if the problem is with the
furnace?

You imply it has been working until now. You can usually bypass the
T-stat just by putting the two wires together. You may have a bad gas
valve, flame sensor, ignitor, etc.

On Wed, 18 Jan 2017 12:52:03 -0800 (PST), home owner
wrote:

Oren

The user manual doesn't say how to set the thermostat back to factory defaults.

Look for a small hole, perhaps on the back of the unit. Using a paper
clip press the button down for a few seconds. It may or may not apply
to your unit, but check it out. Particularly if you mistakenly changed
the program wrong. It gets you back to the factory defaults after you
messed it up. HTH

On Wed, 18 Jan 2017 16:06:39 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 1/18/2017 3:24 PM, Taxed and Spent wrote:
On 1/18/2017 12:09 PM, home owner wrote:
Totaline P474-1035

The two AA batteries were replaced and installed correctly two weeks ago.

The red light on the thermostat is on all the time.

There's been no power interruptions, surges or nearby lightning.



can you try to bypass the thermostat and see if the problem is with the
furnace?

You imply it has been working until now. You can usually bypass the
T-stat just by putting the two wires together. You may have a bad gas
valve, flame sensor, ignitor, etc.

My gas furnace is in the attic. Calling for heat it would not come on.
Turned out the light switch in the attic, powering the transformer had
failed. At least explained to me that way... right or wrong I'm not
certain as I'm not that smart :-)

On 2017-01-18 11:03 AM, home owner wrote:
The temperature in my house is 70 degrees.

On the thermostat:

the HEAT-OFF-COOL switch is on the "HEAT" position
the FAN switch is on the "AUTO" position

The thermostat's "heat" setpoint is 82 degrees but the furnace doesn't come on for a long time (hours).

When I press the thermostat's UP/DOWN buttons until the temperature reading is 82 degrees, the furnace still doesn't come on for a long time (hours).

What's wrong?

Or should I go back to a manual (non-programmable) thermostat?


What position is the Program switch on the side of the thermostat?


--
"Fairness is a concept that was invented so kids and
idiots could participate in debates"
- Dilbert

RUN

On Wednesday, January 18, 2017 at 4:06:42 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 3:24 PM, Taxed and Spent wrote:
On 1/18/2017 12:09 PM, home owner wrote:
Totaline P474-1035

The two AA batteries were replaced and installed correctly two weeks ago.

The red light on the thermostat is on all the time.

There's been no power interruptions, surges or nearby lightning.



can you try to bypass the thermostat and see if the problem is with the
furnace?

You imply it has been working until now. You can usually bypass the
T-stat just by putting the two wires together. You may have a bad gas
valve, flame sensor, ignitor, etc.

He implies that now, but from the first post:

"Or should I go back to a manual (non-programmable) thermostat? "

It sounded to me more like he just put it in. Again, that's the
problem with these post, little info, no make, model, nothing.

But I agree, if it were mine, I'd directly connect the wires for
heat and see if the furnace comes on, because it could be a
problem with the furnace, bad connection, etc.

To Trader4 "little info, no make, model, nothing":

23 hours ago (at 12:09 PM on 1/18/2017, I said I have a Totaline P474-1035.

The thermostat was installed about 5 years ago but the problem developed in the past year.

On 1/19/2017 1:08 PM, home owner wrote:
To Trader4 "little info, no make, model, nothing":

23 hours ago (at 12:09 PM on 1/18/2017, I said I have a Totaline P474-1035.

The thermostat was installed about 5 years ago but the problem developed in the past year.


Does it have a battery? Has it been replaced? Sometimes it shows the
display but does not have enough power to trip the function called for.

On 2017-01-19 5:03 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/19/2017 1:08 PM, home owner wrote:
To Trader4 "little info, no make, model, nothing":

23 hours ago (at 12:09 PM on 1/18/2017, I said I have a Totaline
P474-1035.

The thermostat was installed about 5 years ago but the problem
developed in the past year.


Does it have a battery? Has it been replaced? Sometimes it shows the
display but does not have enough power to trip the function called for.

I am wondering about that too, also whether he is grasping the concept
of a span, that many thermostats have built in.

--
Froz....

Yes, the thermostat has 2 AA batteries. I replaced both batteries a week ago (and Yes, they are installed correctly)

What do you mean by "span"? Does my Totaline P474-1035 have a built-in "span"?

On Friday, January 20, 2017 at 10:14:08 AM UTC-5, home owner wrote:
Yes, the thermostat has 2 AA batteries. I replaced both batteries a week ago (and Yes, they are installed correctly)

What do you mean by "span"? Does my Totaline P474-1035 have a built-in "span"?

Have you tried what several of us have suggested? Find the 24V power wire
and "heat" wire coming into the thermostat, connect them together, see if
it starts? I gave you the colors typically used in another post, it's
usually red for power, white for heat.

trader_4: What do you mean by "span"?

FrozenNorth: What do you mean by "span"?

On 1/20/17 12:06 PM, home owner wrote:
trader_4: What do you mean by "span"?


Your Totaline calls it "dead span". See page 17 of user manual at:
https://www.totaline.com/dl/P474-103...Thermostat.pdf

This explanation is quoted from
http://www.hunterfan.com/SupportDocu...bR02102010.pdf

"The span setting regulates when and how long your system will run.
The span has been set at the factory to 2 which will allow
the system to turn on 1 deg.F(.05 deg. C) above or below the set
temperature and run for 1 deg.F (.05 deg.C) above or below the set
temperature.
If your thermostat is set to turn on at 72 in heat mode, with a span
setting of 2, your thermostat will activate your furnace at 71 and
shut it down when it reaches 73. For cooling at 72 with a span of 2,
your air conditioner will activate at 73 and shut down at 71. This
setting can be changed to 1, 2, or 3. 1 will shorten your running time
while 3 will lengthen it."

The issue is the actual turn on & turn off temps should never be
equal. Should be at least 1 deg different, and usually 2 or 3. Some
times also referred to as "hysteresis".

With room temp of 70, and set temp of 82, this is not likely to be
your problem. Most likely it has died of old age, or maybe there is a
wiring problem between it and the furnace. That's why others have said
to short together the white and red wires and see if furnace starts,
or not.

*ALSO*, I just stumbled across the "Factory Reset" instructions at:
https://www.totaline.com/dl/STAT_SETUP_CHEAT_SHEET.pdf

"Factory Reset:
Move Program switch to Set, hold Next to enter setup, press Next to go
to step 2 (€œCy€�), press and hold Next until all icons appear, press
and hold Next until €œFd€� appears. Press Next three times, then move
Program switch. "

Good luck.......

On 2017-01-20 12:08 PM, home owner wrote:
FrozenNorth: What do you mean by "span"?

It is a setting on my Honeywell thermostat, it adjusts between electric,
vs natural gas etc and the time they take to heat and recover.
If you set your thermostat, for 72 degrees, it may not urn on till it
gets to 71.5 and be off at 72.5 as an example at one setting, but could
be even closer or looser on other settings or the type of fuel.

Note I just pulled those numbers out of my ass, the idea is to keep your
furnace spending all day shutting on and off.

--
Froz....

I may not have accurately described the problem with my Totaline P474-1035 programmable thermostat.

The furnace does turn "On" and "Off" (so the thermostat wiring is OK) but the furnace doesn't respond to the "Heat" setpoint on the thermostat.

For example, if the setpoint is 82 degrees, the furnace doesn't come on when the house temperature drops below 82 degrees (sometimes, the furnace doesn't come on when the house temperature falls to 73 degrees).

When I push the "UP" button so the display shows 90 degrees, the furnace won't come in for a looong time (even hours!)

On 1/25/2017 2:23 PM, home owner wrote:
I may not have accurately described the problem with my Totaline P474-1035 programmable thermostat.

The furnace does turn "On" and "Off" (so the thermostat wiring is OK) but the furnace doesn't respond to the "Heat" setpoint on the thermostat.

For example, if the setpoint is 82 degrees, the furnace doesn't come on when the house temperature drops below 82 degrees (sometimes, the furnace doesn't come on when the house temperature falls to 73 degrees).

When I push the "UP" button so the display shows 90 degrees, the furnace won't come in for a looong time (even hours!)


Furnace is not getting the signal. Battery fresh?
Try a Honeywell T-stat. Very accurate.

The thermostat has 2 AA batteries. I replaced both batteries about 10 days ago (and "Yes", they're installed correctly)

Should I just replace the Totaline programmable thermostat with a manual (non-programmable) thermostat?

Should I just replace the Totaline programmable thermostat with a manual (non-programmable) thermostat?

On 1/25/2017 3:45 PM, home owner wrote:
Should I just replace the Totaline programmable thermostat with a manual (non-programmable) thermostat?


Programmable is fine, just get a reliable brand like Honeywell,
Robertshaw.

As long as the heat is coming on if you bypass the T-stat you can be
sure that is not the problem. The thermostat is just a switch that
signals the heater to go off or on.

On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 12:24:39 -0800 (PST), home owner
wrote:

The thermostat has 2 AA batteries. I replaced both batteries about 10 days
ago (and "Yes", they're installed correctly)

Sounds like some component failed in the electronics. You need a new
thermostat.

On Wednesday, January 25, 2017 at 2:54:04 PM UTC-6, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/25/2017 3:45 PM, home owner wrote:
Should I just replace the Totaline programmable thermostat with a manual (non-programmable) thermostat?

Programmable is fine, just get a reliable brand like Honeywell,
Robertshaw.

As long as the heat is coming on if you bypass the T-stat you can be
sure that is not the problem. The thermostat is just a switch that
signals the heater to go off or on.


As I recall,"Totaline" is a Carrier brand and supplies a lot of quality parts to the HVACR industries. I bought a lot of Totaline parts from the Carrier distributor back when I was working and I never had a problem with their parts or thermostats. I'm guessing that the link below is for the thermostat owned by the OP. ヽ(ヅ)ノ

http://www.ntsupply.com/files/products/P374-1700B.pdf

[8~{} Uncle Stat Monster

On 1/25/2017 3:46 PM, home owner wrote:
Should I just replace the Totaline programmable thermostat with a manual (non-programmable) thermostat?


Have you tried jumping the thermostat yet?

The furnace does turn "On" and "Off" (so the thermostat wiring is OK)

On Wednesday, January 25, 2017 at 4:40:58 PM UTC-5, home owner wrote:
The furnace does turn "On" and "Off" (so the thermostat wiring is OK)

so you say it will come on,,,

what do you have to do to make the furnace come on?


maybe the thermostat is set for some weird mode like keep off or something.

can you clear it of all programming and start from scratch?

m

I have cleared all programming and started from scratch.

The clock is set to the correct date and time
The Heat setpoint is 82 degrees for every day (SaSuMTuWThF) and for all time periods.
The Program Switch is at the RUN position
The Mode switch is at the HEAT position
The Fan switch is at the AUTO position

On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 12:45:04 -0800 (PST), home owner
wrote:

Should I just replace the Totaline programmable thermostat with a manual (non-programmable) thermostat?

Thats entirely up to you.... Both will work.

Personally, I found my programmable t-stat was more trouble than it was
worth. But I am not on a routine, so I was constantly having to change
and bypass the settings, not to mention changing batteries.

Then I replaced the furnace, and had a professional furnace guy come to
modify the duct work. He told me to use the non-programmable t-stat that
came with the furnace, saying it was calibrated for that furnace. (I'm
not sure if I believe that), but I put that one on the wall, and have
not gone back to the programmable. I have a constant temperature, No
more fussing with it or batteries to change. If I go away for a whole
day, I may lower the temp about 8 deg. Otherwise I dont even touch the
t-stat. It just stays 68 deg in the house all the time.

I have not noticed any change in fuel usage.

I always figure that if you lower the temp, you will have to regain it
by making the furnace run longer to catch up. So the savings are
minimal.

On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 16:36:41 -0500, Bill
wrote:

On 1/25/2017 3:46 PM, home owner wrote:
Should I just replace the Totaline programmable thermostat with a manual (non-programmable) thermostat?


Have you tried jumping the thermostat yet?

OP never replied if he found the reset hole for factory defaults and
tried that. Or if the T-stat has such a method.

OP has the furnace ever been serviced by an HVAC tech?

As Retired suggested, I followed the "Factory Reset" instructions enumerated at https://www.totaline.com/dl/STAT_SETUP_CHEAT_SHEET.pdf

Factory Reset:
Move Program switch to Set
Hold Next to enter setup
Press Next to go to step 2 (€œCy€�)
Press and hold Next until all icons appear
Press and hold Next until €œFd€� appears.
Press Next three times
Move the Program switch

On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 14:58:57 -0800 (PST), home owner
wrote:

As Retired suggested, I followed the "Factory Reset" instructions enumerated at https://www.totaline.com/dl/STAT_SETUP_CHEAT_SHEET.pdf

Factory Reset:
Move Program switch to Set
Hold Next to enter setup
Press Next to go to step 2 (“Cy”)
Press and hold Next until all icons appear
Press and hold Next until “Fd” appears.
Press Next three times
Move the Program switch

I first suggested a factory reset to defaults when I had asked about
power surges, or lightning strikes that cause a corrupt EPROM. NOW.
Did a reset work or not?

On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 13:40:54 -0800 (PST), home owner
wrote:

The furnace does turn "On" and "Off" (so the thermostat wiring is OK)

How do you know the "wiring is OK"?

Oren, A factory reset did NOT work