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mold on outdoor concrete-stairs: chlorox vs "shock"(???)
mold on outdoor concrete-stairs: chlorox vs "shock"(???)
(plus aluminum siding, too) Thanks for the suggestions for getting the mold off the aluminum siding. Just this afternoon, I finally got around to doing a use-laundry-bleach test: The Chlorox (100%) [as advised to me in a respose to a prior post here, re mold and aluminum siding] did indeed "pretty-much" work on that siding, in that it lightened the mold as well as made it fairly easily to rub-off. The color that remained underneath looked like a mix of maybe 2/3 original-white and 1/3 ugly-grey. (I suppose that's as good as it will get?) ----- outdoor concrete-stairs: mold stuck-HARD to them: I also squirted that 100% laundry-bleach on some nearby shaded outdoor-stairs made of somewhat-rough-surfaced concrete, the result being a *total failure* -- it wasn't the least bit easier to scrape off the mold -- in fact I still couldn't get *any* off. (The roughness really gives it a grip, huh?) ----- "Pool Shock"(?) (swimming-pool chlorine): Now, here's something interesting that I recently found searching back to a much-earlier repair-thread, about someone needing to clean mold from his concrete driveway. The final suggestions he got were between using plain laundry-bleach, vs using a special for-swimming-pools chlorine, something they referred to as "pool shock", that came in a powder form (to mix with water, I suppose). ("Pool Shock" -- why that name? Trademark or something? What does it mean? And, is it called that everywhere in the U.S., or just in some local areas?) ---- Here it is: Mix household bleach (one gallon) with one pound of swimming pool chlorine and 3 gallons of very hot water in a 5 gal. bucket. Stir well - use broom to coat driveway. Do this on a hot day and let it dry. 3 hours later hose off. You'll be very pleased with the results. # While I'm sure this will work, what is the purpose of mixing weak bleach aka Clorox with strong bleach aka pool shock? Just mix the shock in water. A 1 lb bag of shock is enough to give you 10ppm in 10-15,000 gallons so it will make a hell of a strong brew in a 5 gallon bucket. So, what opinion on *this* approach? Pros and cons? ----- Hey -- what about using it for the siding, too? And -- supposing that someone here will suggest that I use this stronger stuff on those stairs (to "shock" away the mold?), what advice about using it on the aluminum siding too? What chance that the result there would be any better than what I got with the chlorox? (or any worse?) Likewise, since I assume I'll be using a (rented) "pressure washer" to remove the (hopefully by-then-weakened) mold Now, would that "shock" stuff make it any easier for a "pressure washer" to wash off the (weakened) mold? ---- Also, what *kind* of pressure-washer to rent? (Note: due to that large slope (at the front of house, the yard is level with of first-floor, but at the rear, it's an entire floor lower, at basement level, making the 2nd floor *three* floors up) I'll have pressure-shoot the water up as much as 30 feet.) (1) Gasoline, I suppose (assuming they rent out the things). (2) What level of "psi", and what horsepower, would I need? (and what would be the bare minimum?) Thanks! David |
#2
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mold on outdoor concrete-stairs: chlorox vs "shock"(???)
David Combs wrote:
mold on outdoor concrete-stairs: chlorox vs "shock"(???) (plus aluminum siding, too) Thanks for the suggestions for getting the mold off the aluminum siding. Just this afternoon, I finally got around to doing a use-laundry-bleach test: The Chlorox (100%) [as advised to me in a respose to a prior post here, re mold and aluminum siding] did indeed "pretty-much" work on that siding, in that it lightened the mold as well as made it fairly easily to rub-off. The color that remained underneath looked like a mix of maybe 2/3 original-white and 1/3 ugly-grey. (I suppose that's as good as it will get?) ----- outdoor concrete-stairs: mold stuck-HARD to them: I also squirted that 100% laundry-bleach on some nearby shaded outdoor-stairs made of somewhat-rough-surfaced concrete, the result being a *total failure* -- it wasn't the least bit easier to scrape off the mold -- in fact I still couldn't get *any* off. (The roughness really gives it a grip, huh?) ----- "Pool Shock"(?) (swimming-pool chlorine): Now, here's something interesting that I recently found searching back to a much-earlier repair-thread, about someone needing to clean mold from his concrete driveway. The final suggestions he got were between using plain laundry-bleach, vs using a special for-swimming-pools chlorine, something they referred to as "pool shock", that came in a powder form (to mix with water, I suppose). ("Pool Shock" -- why that name? Trademark or something? What does it mean? And, is it called that everywhere in the U.S., or just in some local areas?) ---- Here it is: Mix household bleach (one gallon) with one pound of swimming pool chlorine and 3 gallons of very hot water in a 5 gal. bucket. Stir well - use broom to coat driveway. Do this on a hot day and let it dry. 3 hours later hose off. You'll be very pleased with the results. # While I'm sure this will work, what is the purpose of mixing weak bleach aka Clorox with strong bleach aka pool shock? Just mix the shock in water. A 1 lb bag of shock is enough to give you 10ppm in 10-15,000 gallons so it will make a hell of a strong brew in a 5 gallon bucket. So, what opinion on *this* approach? Pros and cons? ----- Hey -- what about using it for the siding, too? And -- supposing that someone here will suggest that I use this stronger stuff on those stairs (to "shock" away the mold?), what advice about using it on the aluminum siding too? What chance that the result there would be any better than what I got with the chlorox? (or any worse?) Likewise, since I assume I'll be using a (rented) "pressure washer" to remove the (hopefully by-then-weakened) mold Now, would that "shock" stuff make it any easier for a "pressure washer" to wash off the (weakened) mold? ---- Also, what *kind* of pressure-washer to rent? (Note: due to that large slope (at the front of house, the yard is level with of first-floor, but at the rear, it's an entire floor lower, at basement level, making the 2nd floor *three* floors up) I'll have pressure-shoot the water up as much as 30 feet.) (1) Gasoline, I suppose (assuming they rent out the things). (2) What level of "psi", and what horsepower, would I need? (and what would be the bare minimum?) Thanks! David you not gonna be able to rub concrete like you did the siding.. the siding is smooth and the concrete has pits in it.. this is what i did to the sidewalk(concrete) in front of my home.. it looked black and all the scrubbing you do is not gonna help.. the mold was in the very tiny holes in the concrete... i had a gallon container of grandules of clorine or such that was suppose to go into the swimming pool(the kids and wife mess with the pool, not me..) but they had gotten the gallon of stuff wet and it was like a block of cement inside the plastic container.. wife says to throw it away.. i say no.. i took it and cut off the plastic and then beat this block with a hammer and knocked it all down to a grandule size like it was before.. i then hosed off the sidewalk and then spinkled all of the stuff onto the wet sidewalk and let it sit in the sun for about an hour or two.. i then went back with a fine mist over it, not to wash it off, but to make sure it was all wet....... left it like this for a few hours.... then hosed it off as i was using a broom on the mix.... hosed it off and later found out that some of the grass next to the concrete was turning brown(clorine will kill vegation)... but in a few days the black on the crevices of the cement was gone... mold is vegation and will be killed by the clorine and later a good flushing will wash it away... hope this helps. |
#3
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mold on outdoor concrete-stairs: chlorox vs "shock"(???)
I used to work for the municipal swimming pool 30 yrs ago. Our method of
cleaning mold and algae off of concrete was to wet down the concrete and sprinkle with HTH granuales (pool shock). Let sit 15 minutes, broom it, hose off. Take care not to splash on to foilage. "David Combs" wrote in message ... mold on outdoor concrete-stairs: chlorox vs "shock"(???) (plus aluminum siding, too) Thanks for the suggestions for getting the mold off the aluminum siding. Just this afternoon, I finally got around to doing a use-laundry-bleach test: The Chlorox (100%) [as advised to me in a respose to a prior post here, re mold and aluminum siding] did indeed "pretty-much" work on that siding, in that it lightened the mold as well as made it fairly easily to rub-off. The color that remained underneath looked like a mix of maybe 2/3 original-white and 1/3 ugly-grey. (I suppose that's as good as it will get?) ----- outdoor concrete-stairs: mold stuck-HARD to them: I also squirted that 100% laundry-bleach on some nearby shaded outdoor-stairs made of somewhat-rough-surfaced concrete, the result being a *total failure* -- it wasn't the least bit easier to scrape off the mold -- in fact I still couldn't get *any* off. (The roughness really gives it a grip, huh?) ----- "Pool Shock"(?) (swimming-pool chlorine): Now, here's something interesting that I recently found searching back to a much-earlier repair-thread, about someone needing to clean mold from his concrete driveway. The final suggestions he got were between using plain laundry-bleach, vs using a special for-swimming-pools chlorine, something they referred to as "pool shock", that came in a powder form (to mix with water, I suppose). ("Pool Shock" -- why that name? Trademark or something? What does it mean? And, is it called that everywhere in the U.S., or just in some local areas?) ---- Here it is: Mix household bleach (one gallon) with one pound of swimming pool chlorine and 3 gallons of very hot water in a 5 gal. bucket. Stir well - use broom to coat driveway. Do this on a hot day and let it dry. 3 hours later hose off. You'll be very pleased with the results. # While I'm sure this will work, what is the purpose of mixing weak bleach aka Clorox with strong bleach aka pool shock? Just mix the shock in water. A 1 lb bag of shock is enough to give you 10ppm in 10-15,000 gallons so it will make a hell of a strong brew in a 5 gallon bucket. So, what opinion on *this* approach? Pros and cons? ----- Hey -- what about using it for the siding, too? And -- supposing that someone here will suggest that I use this stronger stuff on those stairs (to "shock" away the mold?), what advice about using it on the aluminum siding too? What chance that the result there would be any better than what I got with the chlorox? (or any worse?) Likewise, since I assume I'll be using a (rented) "pressure washer" to remove the (hopefully by-then-weakened) mold Now, would that "shock" stuff make it any easier for a "pressure washer" to wash off the (weakened) mold? ---- Also, what *kind* of pressure-washer to rent? (Note: due to that large slope (at the front of house, the yard is level with of first-floor, but at the rear, it's an entire floor lower, at basement level, making the 2nd floor *three* floors up) I'll have pressure-shoot the water up as much as 30 feet.) (1) Gasoline, I suppose (assuming they rent out the things). (2) What level of "psi", and what horsepower, would I need? (and what would be the bare minimum?) Thanks! David |
#4
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mold on outdoor concrete-stairs: chlorox vs "shock"(???)
In article ,
jmagerl wrote: I used to work for the municipal swimming pool 30 yrs ago. Our method of cleaning mold and algae off of concrete was to wet down the concrete and sprinkle with HTH granuales (pool shock). Let sit 15 minutes, broom it, hose off. Take care not to splash on to foilage. Thanks so much for these first two replies! So, I go to a pool-supply place and buy some of those granules. -------- Now, to the other readers, these two remaining questions: (1) I guess that I do *not* use the shock on the *siding* -- reading between the lines, I infer that the laundry-bleach (eg chlorox-style gallon-bottles) is more than sufficient for the siding. IS THAT TRUE? IS THAT WHAT *YOU* WOULD DO? (2) Pressure-washer: how big/powerful/psi/hp do I need to blast the stuff up 20 or even 30 feet -- with enough power remaining at that stream-height to blast-off the bleach-soaked mold? Thanks! David PS: I now head off to Cosco for my weekly shopping trip, and will pick up a few gallons of bleach. |
#5
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mold on outdoor concrete-stairs: chlorox vs "shock"(???)
"David Combs" wrote in message ... In article , jmagerl wrote: I used to work for the municipal swimming pool 30 yrs ago. Our method of cleaning mold and algae off of concrete was to wet down the concrete and sprinkle with HTH granuales (pool shock). Let sit 15 minutes, broom it, hose off. Take care not to splash on to foilage. Thanks so much for these first two replies! So, I go to a pool-supply place and buy some of those granules. NO, you go to Wal-Mart or some other discount place, not the pool supply, unless you have money to burn. Tom J |
#6
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mold on outdoor concrete-stairs: chlorox vs "shock"(???)
Pool Shock is a very strong oxidizer. If it comes in contact with petrolium
based product it will spontaneously combust. I know someone who was severely burned by mixing granulated pool chlorine and gasoline. She was trying to clean oil stains from a driveway. Also #1 son mixed it with used motor oil. Not fire but a lot of smoke in the garage. Neighbors called Fire Department. "David Combs" wrote in message ... mold on outdoor concrete-stairs: chlorox vs "shock"(???) (plus aluminum siding, too) Thanks for the suggestions for getting the mold off the aluminum siding. Just this afternoon, I finally got around to doing a use-laundry-bleach test: The Chlorox (100%) [as advised to me in a respose to a prior post here, re mold and aluminum siding] did indeed "pretty-much" work on that siding, in that it lightened the mold as well as made it fairly easily to rub-off. The color that remained underneath looked like a mix of maybe 2/3 original-white and 1/3 ugly-grey. (I suppose that's as good as it will get?) ----- outdoor concrete-stairs: mold stuck-HARD to them: I also squirted that 100% laundry-bleach on some nearby shaded outdoor-stairs made of somewhat-rough-surfaced concrete, the result being a *total failure* -- it wasn't the least bit easier to scrape off the mold -- in fact I still couldn't get *any* off. (The roughness really gives it a grip, huh?) ----- "Pool Shock"(?) (swimming-pool chlorine): Now, here's something interesting that I recently found searching back to a much-earlier repair-thread, about someone needing to clean mold from his concrete driveway. The final suggestions he got were between using plain laundry-bleach, vs using a special for-swimming-pools chlorine, something they referred to as "pool shock", that came in a powder form (to mix with water, I suppose). ("Pool Shock" -- why that name? Trademark or something? What does it mean? And, is it called that everywhere in the U.S., or just in some local areas?) ---- Here it is: Mix household bleach (one gallon) with one pound of swimming pool chlorine and 3 gallons of very hot water in a 5 gal. bucket. Stir well - use broom to coat driveway. Do this on a hot day and let it dry. 3 hours later hose off. You'll be very pleased with the results. # While I'm sure this will work, what is the purpose of mixing weak bleach aka Clorox with strong bleach aka pool shock? Just mix the shock in water. A 1 lb bag of shock is enough to give you 10ppm in 10-15,000 gallons so it will make a hell of a strong brew in a 5 gallon bucket. So, what opinion on *this* approach? Pros and cons? ----- Hey -- what about using it for the siding, too? And -- supposing that someone here will suggest that I use this stronger stuff on those stairs (to "shock" away the mold?), what advice about using it on the aluminum siding too? What chance that the result there would be any better than what I got with the chlorox? (or any worse?) Likewise, since I assume I'll be using a (rented) "pressure washer" to remove the (hopefully by-then-weakened) mold Now, would that "shock" stuff make it any easier for a "pressure washer" to wash off the (weakened) mold? ---- Also, what *kind* of pressure-washer to rent? (Note: due to that large slope (at the front of house, the yard is level with of first-floor, but at the rear, it's an entire floor lower, at basement level, making the 2nd floor *three* floors up) I'll have pressure-shoot the water up as much as 30 feet.) (1) Gasoline, I suppose (assuming they rent out the things). (2) What level of "psi", and what horsepower, would I need? (and what would be the bare minimum?) Thanks! David |
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mold on outdoor concrete-stairs: chlorox vs "shock"(???)
Good point - forgot to mention. Rubber boots are best - and try not to be
sloppy! LOL! Jim "jmagerl" wrote in message ... I might add: wear clothes you don't mind losing. if it doesn't eat thru them, it will bleach them. |
#8
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mold on outdoor concrete-stairs: chlorox vs "shock"(???)
In article ,
Tom J wrote: "David Combs" wrote in message ... In article , jmagerl wrote: I used to work for the municipal swimming pool 30 yrs ago. Our method of cleaning mold and algae off of concrete was to wet down the concrete and sprinkle with HTH granuales (pool shock). Let sit 15 minutes, broom it, hose off. Take care not to splash on to foilage. Thanks so much for these first two replies! So, I go to a pool-supply place and buy some of those granules. NO, you go to Wal-Mart or some other discount place, not the pool supply, unless you have money to burn. Tom J I did call HD; they had no such thing. So I went to the pool-supply place (3 short blocks from the cosco/HD complex), and paid maybe 8 or 9 for a gallon (liquid!) of the stuff ("shock"). For only one gallon, whatever the difference in price is, isn't much of a deal. More -- well, that's something else. Thanks! David |
#9
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*applying* the bleach (30-feet up)
Now, please tell us why you would want to bleach your house?
-- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org www.mormons.org .. .. "David Combs" wrote in message ... Question: how to *apply* the bleach, even 30-feet up? (Ladder is impossible, at least for me, due to dangerous 20 or 30 degree slope of the ground, parallel to and up against the side of the house -- ground-level at front of house is 1st floor, at rear is whole floor lower, at basement level.) The other day I was at HD, and in the paint area they had these telescoping poles, *hugely* long (and strongly built, too), with male screw extending from the end, that fits into eg paint rollers, etc. I also got two super-thick (for super-rough surfaces) paint rollers. Plan is to "paint", via roller, the bleach onto the siding. Comments? Alternative ways of applying the bleach? Thanks! David |
#10
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*applying* the bleach (30-feet up)
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Now, please tell us why you would want to bleach your house? You oughta know, hack. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org www.mormons.org . . "David Combs" wrote in message ... Question: how to *apply* the bleach, even 30-feet up? (Ladder is impossible, at least for me, due to dangerous 20 or 30 degree slope of the ground, parallel to and up against the side of the house -- ground-level at front of house is 1st floor, at rear is whole floor lower, at basement level.) The other day I was at HD, and in the paint area they had these telescoping poles, *hugely* long (and strongly built, too), with male screw extending from the end, that fits into eg paint rollers, etc. I also got two super-thick (for super-rough surfaces) paint rollers. Plan is to "paint", via roller, the bleach onto the siding. Comments? Alternative ways of applying the bleach? Thanks! David |
#11
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*applying* the bleach (30-feet up)
"CBHvac" wrote in message
... "Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Now, please tell us why you would want to bleach your house? You oughta know, hack. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org www.mormons.org . . "David Combs" wrote in message ... Question: how to *apply* the bleach, even 30-feet up? (Ladder is impossible, at least for me, due to dangerous 20 or 30 degree slope of the ground, parallel to and up against the side of the house -- ground-level at front of house is 1st floor, at rear is whole floor lower, at basement level.) The other day I was at HD, and in the paint area they had these telescoping poles, *hugely* long (and strongly built, too), with male screw extending from the end, that fits into eg paint rollers, etc. I also got two super-thick (for super-rough surfaces) paint rollers. Plan is to "paint", via roller, the bleach onto the siding. Comments? Alternative ways of applying the bleach? Thanks! David I would be really concerned about safety. With your slope you have to get close to the house and look up to paint. Even if you dilute your bleach way down one drop will seriously burn your eye. Get safety goggles (not glasses) not to let the droplets get between the glasses and your head. The expense (not that big) and discomfort (much bigger ...) is well worth it. Eye bleach burns heal poorly and seldom completely. Guess how I figured it out... EJ |
#12
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*applying* the bleach (30-feet up)
For a powerwasher why rent at 50 a day, buy an electric, you will find
alot of uses, mold comes back. Karcher is a good brand for around 200. To bleach 30 ft up , hire someone bleach is slippery , get it on the ladder and fall. Or use a garden sprayer. Shock is overkill with a powerwasher, and to hard for siding or plants |
#13
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*applying* the bleach (30-feet up)
One or both eyes? I hope not both!
Did you ever recover completely, and how long did it take? And how much medical care? That sounds miserable! I'm sad to hear that you learned for us. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org www.mormons.org .. .. "EJ" wrote in message news:Co04b.305379$YN5.208932@sccrnsc01... I would be really concerned about safety. With your slope you have to get close to the house and look up to paint. Even if you dilute your bleach way down one drop will seriously burn your eye. Get safety goggles (not glasses) not to let the droplets get between the glasses and your head. The expense (not that big) and discomfort (much bigger ...) is well worth it. Eye bleach burns heal poorly and seldom completely. Guess how I figured it out... EJ |
#14
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*applying* the bleach (30-feet up)
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... It is possible to tell the true character of a man by how he treats others around him. It sure is. We asked you time and time again to remove that sig line in the other group, as it offended many people that do no believe God lives on a Planet...and dont have to wear temple garments...did you? No..you replied with sarcastic and smartass answers... Now, the more **** we give you, the more you try to fit in. I can at least give you credit for growing nuts......unless...wait....no..nevermind..that was the other bunch of Mormons that did that.... Look..you give bad advice...period. You claim to be a HVAC pro, and you are so far from that its pathetic. The trade is self policing, and you are guilty of a hack. You claim to want to learn, but refuse to follow advice. You claim that you have done some pretty damn amazing things with AC units, yet, what you state is impossible at times..... No Chris...I tried to like you..I posted 8k of stuff in the other group one time to try to get you to listen and understand...you chose to reply with some **** about how you regret that you wont see my posts anymore...boo****inhoo. You are a hack. Period. You hold no licence in your state of NY. I know its not needed....but you COULD hold some other trade designation...but no..you know a little about everything, and all about nothing. You refuse to listen to those you want to call your peers...and then, when only ONE person in the other group takes your side, you act like you belong. You sir, are as bad as those you try to put down....if not worse. At least, I have no problem telling you EXACTLY how I feel....nor would I have a problem if we all got together and you showed up. I would tell you the same thing, only it would be followed with show the old man to the door. You are bad for the trade. Period. I would rather be known as a jackass, but a fair jackass that knows his job, than some softy that is dirt cheap, cant fix ****, and then cries that hes going solo, but does not have a clue after 2 years as an installer monkey...and is STILL looking for a job. You want to know how to make money? LEARN WHAT THE HELL YOU ARE DOING!!!!! -- Offensive sig line snipped. . . "CBHvac" wrote in message ... "Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... Now, please tell us why you would want to bleach your house? You oughta know, hack. |
#15
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mold on outdoor concrete-stairs: chlorox vs "shock"(???)
In article ,
RamblinOn wrote: David Combs wrote: mold on outdoor concrete-stairs: chlorox vs "shock"(???) (plus aluminum siding, too) Thanks for the suggestions for getting the mold off the aluminum siding. Just this afternoon, I finally got around to doing a use-laundry-bleach test: The Chlorox (100%) [as advised to me in a respose to a prior post here, re mold and aluminum What kind of nails are holding the siding to the house? Don't know at this late hour; what types do you believe *might* be used? Let us know when the heads rust off and the siding is flapping in the breeze ) Please do explain a bit -- looks like something I need to know... Is the mold in shade of the house, or are there trees/shrubs that can be trimmed to get more sunlight? Sometimes easier to prevent than to cure. It's on the perpetually-shady side of the house -- I don't think the sun *ever* hits it; and if it does, it would be only in the early, early morning, at sun-up. David |
#16
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*applying* the bleach (30-feet up)
In article ,
mark Ransley wrote: For a powerwasher why rent at 50 a day, buy an electric, you will find alot of uses, mold comes back. Karcher is a good brand for around 200. To bleach 30 ft up , hire someone bleach is slippery , get it on the ladder and fall. Or use a garden sprayer. Shock is overkill with a powerwasher, and to hard for siding or plants Before I consider buying one, I'd like to see if others here agree or not. eg, what do *you* (readers) do? Finally buy your own? And, what are the around-the-house uses for the thing, besides getting mold off siding? Thanks! David PS: and do you agree that Karcher is the brand to get, for "nonprofessional" use. Oh -- electric: would that have enough power, psi, etc, to do the job? How *much* better is a gasoline-powered one? What do *you* use? Thanks! |
#17
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*applying* the bleach (30-feet up)
"David Combs" wrote in message ... In article , mark Ransley wrote: For a powerwasher why rent at 50 a day, buy an electric, you will find alot of uses, mold comes back. Karcher is a good brand for around 200. To bleach 30 ft up , hire someone bleach is slippery , get it on the ladder and fall. Or use a garden sprayer. Shock is overkill with a powerwasher, and to hard for siding or plants Before I consider buying one, I'd like to see if others here agree or not. eg, what do *you* (readers) do? Finally buy your own? And, what are the around-the-house uses for the thing, besides getting mold off siding? Thanks! David PS: and do you agree that Karcher is the brand to get, for "nonprofessional" use. Oh -- electric: would that have enough power, psi, etc, to do the job? How *much* better is a gasoline-powered one? What do *you* use? I use a 3500PSI 13HP Honda powered unit...and want more...LOL...seriously...use it around the house...really....and there are times, you just want more. Dual wands...controls on the handle..Not just a squeeze trigger... Lets say...after using it, I would NEVER consider an electric one....sold that electric jobber about a year ago for $50...thats about all it was worth compared to about any gasser on the market. Thanks! |
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