I have this brick/tile stuff that is structural for this build. The
building is 70+ years old. Home Depot has a bit that I can bore
through the brick/tile that is just a hair over 4" OD. I have a
scrap of steel pipe I want to put through the hold to reinforce the
brick/tile after I bore the hole. This steel pipe is about 4.5" OD.
I can rent the bit and drill from Home Depot to make the initial
hole, but still need to increase the hole diameter for the steel
pipe. I thought of using some sort of grinding stone to make the
hole bigger for the steel pipe. Is there a better way to make the
hole or to widen the hole for the pipe?

Once the pipe is in the hole I plan to concrete around the pipe and
fill the voids in brick/tile. Once the concrete (Sackrete Sand Mix)
hardens I'll run a 3" schedule 40 septic pipe through the steel and
spray foam the space between PVC pipe and steel pipe.

TIA

Mike

On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 3:06:32 PM UTC-4, Mike wrote:
I have this brick/tile stuff that is structural for this build. The
building is 70+ years old. Home Depot has a bit that I can bore
through the brick/tile that is just a hair over 4" OD. I have a
scrap of steel pipe I want to put through the hold to reinforce the
brick/tile after I bore the hole. This steel pipe is about 4.5" OD.
I can rent the bit and drill from Home Depot to make the initial
hole, but still need to increase the hole diameter for the steel
pipe. I thought of using some sort of grinding stone to make the
hole bigger for the steel pipe. Is there a better way to make the
hole or to widen the hole for the pipe?

Once the pipe is in the hole I plan to concrete around the pipe and
fill the voids in brick/tile. Once the concrete (Sackrete Sand Mix)
hardens I'll run a 3" schedule 40 septic pipe through the steel and
spray foam the space between PVC pipe and steel pipe.

TIA

Mike

"brick/tile stuff"

You might want to be just a tad more specific so that we know what kind
of hole saw you should be using.

If you are willing to settle for a 6" hole, Lowes has this hole saw, which
supposedly works for granite and masonry, for under $20.

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...705-68082-9229

If 6" is too big, try contacting a rental shop in your area and see if they
have a kit of hole saws that you can rent for a day. Typically this businesses
have a much bigger selection than Home Depot.

On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 19:03:12 -0000 (UTC), Mike
wrote:

I have this brick/tile stuff that is structural for this build. The
building is 70+ years old. Home Depot has a bit that I can bore
through the brick/tile that is just a hair over 4" OD. I have a
scrap of steel pipe I want to put through the hold to reinforce the
brick/tile after I bore the hole. This steel pipe is about 4.5" OD.
I can rent the bit and drill from Home Depot to make the initial
hole, but still need to increase the hole diameter for the steel
pipe. I thought of using some sort of grinding stone to make the
hole bigger for the steel pipe. Is there a better way to make the
hole or to widen the hole for the pipe?

Once the pipe is in the hole I plan to concrete around the pipe and
fill the voids in brick/tile. Once the concrete (Sackrete Sand Mix)
hardens I'll run a 3" schedule 40 septic pipe through the steel and
spray foam the space between PVC pipe and steel pipe.

TIA

Mike

I'd first see if you can get a 5" bit. Maybe even a 6" which would be
common for heating ducts. You can always mortar it in. Thats better than
trying to break it out with a chisel, which could damage the tile.
Grinding will probably work, but it will be real slow and likely eat up
several wheels.

If the tile is that hollow red clay type of stuff, it may grind fairly
easy. It depends on the material, and whether it's solid or hollow.

You could probably just run the PVC by itself, and mortar around it
also. You dont need more than that to reinforce the wall.

If you use foam around it, I'd buy the rodent proof type so mice dont
chew it, or even poke some metal screen in the hole before the foam.

On 03/30/2016 02:03 PM, Mike wrote:
I have this brick/tile stuff that is structural for this build. The
building is 70+ years old. Home Depot has a bit that I can bore
through the brick/tile that is just a hair over 4" OD. I have a
scrap of steel pipe I want to put through the hold to reinforce the
brick/tile after I bore the hole. This steel pipe is about 4.5" OD.
I can rent the bit and drill from Home Depot to make the initial
hole, but still need to increase the hole diameter for the steel
pipe. I thought of using some sort of grinding stone to make the
hole bigger for the steel pipe. Is there a better way to make the
hole or to widen the hole for the pipe?

Once the pipe is in the hole I plan to concrete around the pipe and
fill the voids in brick/tile. Once the concrete (Sackrete Sand Mix)
hardens I'll run a 3" schedule 40 septic pipe through the steel and
spray foam the space between PVC pipe and steel pipe.

TIA

Mike




https://www.zoro.com/milwaukee-carbi...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 3:43:15 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 19:03:12 -0000 (UTC), Mike
wrote:

I have this brick/tile stuff that is structural for this build. The
building is 70+ years old. Home Depot has a bit that I can bore
through the brick/tile that is just a hair over 4" OD. I have a
scrap of steel pipe I want to put through the hold to reinforce the
brick/tile after I bore the hole. This steel pipe is about 4.5" OD.
I can rent the bit and drill from Home Depot to make the initial
hole, but still need to increase the hole diameter for the steel
pipe. I thought of using some sort of grinding stone to make the
hole bigger for the steel pipe. Is there a better way to make the
hole or to widen the hole for the pipe?

Once the pipe is in the hole I plan to concrete around the pipe and
fill the voids in brick/tile. Once the concrete (Sackrete Sand Mix)
hardens I'll run a 3" schedule 40 septic pipe through the steel and
spray foam the space between PVC pipe and steel pipe.

TIA

Mike

I'd first see if you can get a 5" bit. Maybe even a 6" which would be
common for heating ducts. You can always mortar it in. Thats better than
trying to break it out with a chisel, which could damage the tile.
Grinding will probably work, but it will be real slow and likely eat up
several wheels.


+1 A hole saw the correct size is what I'd do. Trying to chip out
from a smaller hole is not only a lot more work, it may crack the tile.

On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 15:26:02 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

+1 A hole saw the correct size is what I'd do. Trying to chip out
from a smaller hole is not only a lot more work, it may crack the tile.

A good rental shop should have a coring bit / tools to do a good job.
I've seen holes cored 16 inches through monolithic concrete pours for
steam pipes. Might be over kill for a 5" hole.

On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 6:34:12 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 15:26:02 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

+1 A hole saw the correct size is what I'd do. Trying to chip out
from a smaller hole is not only a lot more work, it may crack the tile.

A good rental shop should have a coring bit / tools to do a good job.
I've seen holes cored 16 inches through monolithic concrete pours for
steam pipes. Might be over kill for a 5" hole.

Another option if he doesn't care too much about what the edges look like
would be to drill a bunch of smaller holes spaced around the
circle, then crack it away between them with a small cold chisel.

On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 6:43:26 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 6:34:12 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 15:26:02 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

+1 A hole saw the correct size is what I'd do. Trying to chip out
from a smaller hole is not only a lot more work, it may crack the tile.

A good rental shop should have a coring bit / tools to do a good job.
I've seen holes cored 16 inches through monolithic concrete pours for
steam pipes. Might be over kill for a 5" hole.

Another option if he doesn't care too much about what the edges look like
would be to drill a bunch of smaller holes spaced around the
circle, then crack it away between them with a small cold chisel.

I'm still waiting to hear what the "brick/tile stuff" really is. How thick it
is would be good to know too.

On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 15:43:21 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 6:34:12 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 15:26:02 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

+1 A hole saw the correct size is what I'd do. Trying to chip out
from a smaller hole is not only a lot more work, it may crack the tile.

A good rental shop should have a coring bit / tools to do a good job.
I've seen holes cored 16 inches through monolithic concrete pours for
steam pipes. Might be over kill for a 5" hole.

Another option if he doesn't care too much about what the edges look like
would be to drill a bunch of smaller holes spaced around the
circle, then crack it away between them with a small cold chisel.

When the OP says brick/tile, I'm curious if he means a faux brick
veneer. If this is red brick, even a few bricks could be removed to
get the pipe through and then cut bricks, fit and mortar them back
in.

On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 19:03:12 -0000 (UTC), Mike
wrote:

I have this brick/tile stuff that is structural for this build. The
building is 70+ years old. Home Depot has a bit that I can bore
through the brick/tile that is just a hair over 4" OD. I have a
scrap of steel pipe I want to put through the hold to reinforce the
brick/tile after I bore the hole. This steel pipe is about 4.5" OD.
I can rent the bit and drill from Home Depot to make the initial
hole, but still need to increase the hole diameter for the steel
pipe. I thought of using some sort of grinding stone to make the
hole bigger for the steel pipe. Is there a better way to make the
hole or to widen the hole for the pipe?

Once the pipe is in the hole I plan to concrete around the pipe and
fill the voids in brick/tile. Once the concrete (Sackrete Sand Mix)
hardens I'll run a 3" schedule 40 septic pipe through the steel and
spray foam the space between PVC pipe and steel pipe.

TIA

Mike
diamond bit in a router or rotozip. Wear a respirator.

On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 16:09:54 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I'm still waiting to hear what the "brick/tile stuff" really is. How thick it
is would be good to know too.

Me too. Unless the OP really means a faux brick paneling (tile).

https://tinyurl.com/jhf7ju2

On 2016-03-30, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 3:06:32 PM UTC-4, Mike wrote:
I have this brick/tile stuff that is structural for this build. The
building is 70+ years old. Home Depot has a bit that I can bore
through the brick/tile that is just a hair over 4" OD. I have a
scrap of steel pipe I want to put through the hold to reinforce the
brick/tile after I bore the hole. This steel pipe is about 4.5" OD.
I can rent the bit and drill from Home Depot to make the initial
hole, but still need to increase the hole diameter for the steel
pipe. I thought of using some sort of grinding stone to make the
hole bigger for the steel pipe. Is there a better way to make the
hole or to widen the hole for the pipe?

Once the pipe is in the hole I plan to concrete around the pipe and
fill the voids in brick/tile. Once the concrete (Sackrete Sand Mix)
hardens I'll run a 3" schedule 40 septic pipe through the steel and
spray foam the space between PVC pipe and steel pipe.

TIA

Mike

"brick/tile stuff"

You might want to be just a tad more specific so that we know what kind
of hole saw you should be using.

If you are willing to settle for a 6" hole, Lowes has this hole saw, which
supposedly works for granite and masonry, for under $20.

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...705-68082-9229

If 6" is too big, try contacting a rental shop in your area and see if they
have a kit of hole saws that you can rent for a day. Typically this businesses
have a much bigger selection than Home Depot.

For the folks that asked, here are some pictures (I hope this works)
of the brick/tile. Also, these tiles are 5" thick.

Mike

http://imgur.com/TkSLKCg

http://imgur.com/Hb475uq

http://imgur.com/2C7ZelN

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 02:04:46 -0000 (UTC), Mike
wrote:


For the folks that asked, here are some pictures (I hope this works)
of the brick/tile. Also, these tiles are 5" thick.

Mike

http://imgur.com/TkSLKCg

http://imgur.com/Hb475uq

http://imgur.com/2C7ZelN

Thanks. It shouldn't be very difficult to use a bit to get through
those with a circular drill bit.. I can't imagine a cold chisel
would be needed. I'd guess the are fairly soft and not filled with
concrete.

On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 19:23:10 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 02:04:46 -0000 (UTC), Mike
wrote:


For the folks that asked, here are some pictures (I hope this works)
of the brick/tile. Also, these tiles are 5" thick.

Mike

http://imgur.com/TkSLKCg

http://imgur.com/Hb475uq

http://imgur.com/2C7ZelN

Thanks. It shouldn't be very difficult to use a bit to get through
those with a circular drill bit.. I can't imagine a cold chisel
would be needed. I'd guess the are fairly soft and not filled with
concrete.

BTW, use a long masonry bit to drill through the wall. It gives you an
alignment method so you can cut the hole from /on either side. So they
match up. And the pipe fits in horizontally and not angled.

On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 10:28:45 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 19:23:10 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 02:04:46 -0000 (UTC), Mike
wrote:


For the folks that asked, here are some pictures (I hope this works)
of the brick/tile. Also, these tiles are 5" thick.

Mike

http://imgur.com/TkSLKCg

http://imgur.com/Hb475uq

http://imgur.com/2C7ZelN

Thanks. It shouldn't be very difficult to use a bit to get through
those with a circular drill bit.. I can't imagine a cold chisel
would be needed. I'd guess the are fairly soft and not filled with
concrete.

BTW, use a long masonry bit to drill through the wall. It gives you an
alignment method so you can cut the hole from /on either side. So they
match up. And the pipe fits in horizontally and not angled.

If you don't have long masonry bit, a sharpened metal coat hanger will go
through many materials, including concrete block, wood most sidings, etc.

Mike wrote:
I have this brick/tile stuff that is structural for this build. The
building is 70+ years old. Home Depot has a bit that I can bore
through the brick/tile that is just a hair over 4" OD. I have a
scrap of steel pipe I want to put through the hold to reinforce the
brick/tile after I bore the hole. This steel pipe is about 4.5" OD.
I can rent the bit and drill from Home Depot to make the initial
hole, but still need to increase the hole diameter for the steel
pipe. I thought of using some sort of grinding stone to make the
hole bigger for the steel pipe. Is there a better way to make the
hole or to widen the hole for the pipe?

You could drill a series of smaller holes, close to each other but not
touching, around the perimeter of the circle you want then just knock it
out. That's what I did in a 4" concrete slab when I needed to enlarge a
shower drain. I used a 3/16 bit with holes about 1/2" - .3/4" apart.

Mike wrote:
For the folks that asked, here are some pictures (I hope this works)
of the brick/tile. Also, these tiles are 5" thick.

Mike

http://imgur.com/TkSLKCg

http://imgur.com/Hb475uq

http://imgur.com/2C7ZelN

Hell, just use a hammer.

In ,
Mike typed:
On 2016-03-30, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 3:06:32 PM UTC-4, Mike wrote:
I have this brick/tile stuff that is structural for this build. The
building is 70+ years old. Home Depot has a bit that I can bore
through the brick/tile that is just a hair over 4" OD. I have a
scrap of steel pipe I want to put through the hold to reinforce the
brick/tile after I bore the hole. This steel pipe is about 4.5" OD.
I can rent the bit and drill from Home Depot to make the initial
hole, but still need to increase the hole diameter for the steel
pipe. I thought of using some sort of grinding stone to make the
hole bigger for the steel pipe. Is there a better way to make the
hole or to widen the hole for the pipe?

Once the pipe is in the hole I plan to concrete around the pipe and
fill the voids in brick/tile. Once the concrete (Sackrete Sand Mix)
hardens I'll run a 3" schedule 40 septic pipe through the steel and
spray foam the space between PVC pipe and steel pipe.

TIA

Mike

"brick/tile stuff"

You might want to be just a tad more specific so that we know what
kind
of hole saw you should be using.

For the folks that asked, here are some pictures (I hope this works)
of the brick/tile. Also, these tiles are 5" thick.

Mike

http://imgur.com/TkSLKCg

http://imgur.com/Hb475uq

http://imgur.com/2C7ZelN

I have exactly that type of terracotta masonry in all of the exterior
structural walls of a property that I own. I posted pictures of it
previously when you had a different question in the past.

I have no doubt that you can just cut the hole however you want and just put
the PVC through it without the steel pipe or anything else. There will be
no structural problem in doing it that way. On one of my exterior walls,
there used to be a large kitchen vent fan through the wall to the outside.
The hole was about 12 inches in diameter and the vent fan went through the
hole and there was no special structural support around the kitchen vent fan
hole. There was no problem at all with that in terms of structural
integrity.

You can use the hole saw that you have now or even just carefully chisel out
an opening, and then use whatever mortar etc. you choose to close up the
hole around the PVC pipe.

Again, the steel pipe is not needed for any structural purpose.

Good luck.

On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 11:17:18 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 10:28:45 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 19:23:10 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 02:04:46 -0000 (UTC), Mike
wrote:


For the folks that asked, here are some pictures (I hope this works)
of the brick/tile. Also, these tiles are 5" thick.

Mike

http://imgur.com/TkSLKCg

http://imgur.com/Hb475uq

http://imgur.com/2C7ZelN

Thanks. It shouldn't be very difficult to use a bit to get through
those with a circular drill bit.. I can't imagine a cold chisel
would be needed. I'd guess the are fairly soft and not filled with
concrete.

BTW, use a long masonry bit to drill through the wall. It gives you an
alignment method so you can cut the hole from /on either side. So they
match up. And the pipe fits in horizontally and not angled.

If you don't have long masonry bit, a sharpened metal coat hanger will go
through many materials, including concrete block, wood most sidings, etc.

Everyone here except me keeps saying "bit". What he's talking about is
a 5" hole and in my world you call that a hole saw, not a bit. If he
wants to drill a series of small holes around the perimeter and chisel
it out, for that I would use a drill bit.

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 9:14:11 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 11:17:18 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 10:28:45 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 19:23:10 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 02:04:46 -0000 (UTC), Mike
wrote:


For the folks that asked, here are some pictures (I hope this works)
of the brick/tile. Also, these tiles are 5" thick.

Mike

http://imgur.com/TkSLKCg

http://imgur.com/Hb475uq

http://imgur.com/2C7ZelN

Thanks. It shouldn't be very difficult to use a bit to get through
those with a circular drill bit.. I can't imagine a cold chisel
would be needed. I'd guess the are fairly soft and not filled with
concrete.

BTW, use a long masonry bit to drill through the wall. It gives you an
alignment method so you can cut the hole from /on either side. So they
match up. And the pipe fits in horizontally and not angled.

If you don't have long masonry bit, a sharpened metal coat hanger will go
through many materials, including concrete block, wood most sidings, etc.

Everyone here except me keeps saying "bit". What he's talking about is
a 5" hole and in my world you call that a hole saw, not a bit. If he
wants to drill a series of small holes around the perimeter and chisel
it out, for that I would use a drill bit.

The point (no pun intended) of mentioning a "bit" by both Oren and I was
related to locating the hole on both sides of the wall, not for creating
the hole itself.

In many cases, a hole saw (and many other types of hole boring tools)
are not deep enough to bore the entire hole from one side of the material.

By using a long bit (or a coat hanger) you can create a starter hole on both
sides of the intended opening to ensure that when using the hole saw you end
up with single hole as opposed to 2 holes that don't line up.

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 9:30:33 AM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 9:14:11 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 11:17:18 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 10:28:45 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 19:23:10 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 02:04:46 -0000 (UTC), Mike
wrote:


For the folks that asked, here are some pictures (I hope this works)
of the brick/tile. Also, these tiles are 5" thick.

Mike

http://imgur.com/TkSLKCg

http://imgur.com/Hb475uq

http://imgur.com/2C7ZelN

Thanks. It shouldn't be very difficult to use a bit to get through
those with a circular drill bit.. I can't imagine a cold chisel
would be needed. I'd guess the are fairly soft and not filled with
concrete.

BTW, use a long masonry bit to drill through the wall. It gives you an
alignment method so you can cut the hole from /on either side. So they
match up. And the pipe fits in horizontally and not angled.

If you don't have long masonry bit, a sharpened metal coat hanger will go
through many materials, including concrete block, wood most sidings, etc.

Everyone here except me keeps saying "bit". What he's talking about is
a 5" hole and in my world you call that a hole saw, not a bit. If he
wants to drill a series of small holes around the perimeter and chisel
it out, for that I would use a drill bit.

The point (no pun intended) of mentioning a "bit" by both Oren and I was
related to locating the hole on both sides of the wall, not for creating
the hole itself.

In many cases, a hole saw (and many other types of hole boring tools)
are not deep enough to bore the entire hole from one side of the material.

By using a long bit (or a coat hanger) you can create a starter hole on both
sides of the intended opening to ensure that when using the hole saw you end
up with single hole as opposed to 2 holes that don't line up.

It wasn't aimed at you, I recognized that folks talking about using
a small bit were talking about a bit. But everyone including the OP
was referring to what
I think most of us call a hole saw as a "bit". If they didn't use the
term outright, they accepted the usage in the preceeding posts.

"Home Depot has a bit that I can bore
through the brick/tile that is just a hair over 4" OD."

Do they really have a bit that size? Or is it a hole saw? If it's
a bit, I can't imagine what it would cost compared to a hole saw.

Now that I think about it, kind of odd that whatever this is that
HD has that it's a hair over 4", as opposed to 4", no?

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 9:41:46 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 9:30:33 AM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 9:14:11 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 11:17:18 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 10:28:45 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 19:23:10 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 02:04:46 -0000 (UTC), Mike
wrote:


For the folks that asked, here are some pictures (I hope this works)
of the brick/tile. Also, these tiles are 5" thick.

Mike

http://imgur.com/TkSLKCg

http://imgur.com/Hb475uq

http://imgur.com/2C7ZelN

Thanks. It shouldn't be very difficult to use a bit to get through
those with a circular drill bit.. I can't imagine a cold chisel
would be needed. I'd guess the are fairly soft and not filled with
concrete.

BTW, use a long masonry bit to drill through the wall. It gives you an
alignment method so you can cut the hole from /on either side. So they
match up. And the pipe fits in horizontally and not angled.

If you don't have long masonry bit, a sharpened metal coat hanger will go
through many materials, including concrete block, wood most sidings, etc.

Everyone here except me keeps saying "bit". What he's talking about is
a 5" hole and in my world you call that a hole saw, not a bit. If he
wants to drill a series of small holes around the perimeter and chisel
it out, for that I would use a drill bit.

The point (no pun intended) of mentioning a "bit" by both Oren and I was
related to locating the hole on both sides of the wall, not for creating
the hole itself.

In many cases, a hole saw (and many other types of hole boring tools)
are not deep enough to bore the entire hole from one side of the material.

By using a long bit (or a coat hanger) you can create a starter hole on both
sides of the intended opening to ensure that when using the hole saw you end
up with single hole as opposed to 2 holes that don't line up.

It wasn't aimed at you, I recognized that folks talking about using
a small bit were talking about a bit.

Well, you gotta admit that from where I'm sitting it sure looks like it
was aimed at me. I used the word "bit" in response to Oren's use of the
word "bit" and you responded with:

"Everyone here except me keeps saying "bit". What he's talking about is
a 5" hole and in my world you call that a hole saw, not a bit."

I can't see any other way to take that except as a direct response to my
(and Oren's) comment about using a "long bit".

Ain't the internet fun? ;-)

....snip...

On 3/30/2016 12:03 PM, Mike wrote:
I have this brick/tile stuff that is structural for this build. The
building is 70+ years old. Home Depot has a bit that I can bore
through the brick/tile that is just a hair over 4" OD. I have a
scrap of steel pipe I want to put through the hold to reinforce the
brick/tile after I bore the hole. This steel pipe is about 4.5" OD.
I can rent the bit and drill from Home Depot to make the initial
hole, but still need to increase the hole diameter for the steel
pipe. I thought of using some sort of grinding stone to make the
hole bigger for the steel pipe. Is there a better way to make the
hole or to widen the hole for the pipe?

Once the pipe is in the hole I plan to concrete around the pipe and
fill the voids in brick/tile. Once the concrete (Sackrete Sand Mix)
hardens I'll run a 3" schedule 40 septic pipe through the steel and
spray foam the space between PVC pipe and steel pipe.

TIA

Mike


MY GAWD THIS IS BORING!

On 2016-03-31, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 10:28:45 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 19:23:10 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 02:04:46 -0000 (UTC), Mike
wrote:


For the folks that asked, here are some pictures (I hope this works)
of the brick/tile. Also, these tiles are 5" thick.

Mike

http://imgur.com/TkSLKCg

http://imgur.com/Hb475uq

http://imgur.com/2C7ZelN

Thanks. It shouldn't be very difficult to use a bit to get through
those with a circular drill bit.. I can't imagine a cold chisel
would be needed. I'd guess the are fairly soft and not filled with
concrete.

BTW, use a long masonry bit to drill through the wall. It gives you an
alignment method so you can cut the hole from /on either side. So they
match up. And the pipe fits in horizontally and not angled.

If you don't have long masonry bit, a sharpened metal coat hanger will go
through many materials, including concrete block, wood most sidings, etc.

That's a great tip, thanks.

Mike

On 2016-03-31, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 19:23:10 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 02:04:46 -0000 (UTC), Mike
wrote:


For the folks that asked, here are some pictures (I hope this works)
of the brick/tile. Also, these tiles are 5" thick.

Mike

http://imgur.com/TkSLKCg

http://imgur.com/Hb475uq

http://imgur.com/2C7ZelN

Thanks. It shouldn't be very difficult to use a bit to get through
those with a circular drill bit.. I can't imagine a cold chisel
would be needed. I'd guess the are fairly soft and not filled with
concrete.

BTW, use a long masonry bit to drill through the wall. It gives you an
alignment method so you can cut the hole from /on either side. So they
match up. And the pipe fits in horizontally and not angled.

Thanks. I bought a hole saw. I couldn't get it to work well, so I
rented a "small bore drill" and a 4"x17" bit or hole saw. These are
the pictures of boring through the tile. I bored a hole that is
12.25" long. In two of the pictures is a small hole. This hole is
from using a mortar bit from the inside. I mueasured right and the
4" diameter hole I bored covers and takes out the hole from the
mortar bit.

Because of the internal structure of the tile I won't try to grind
the tile bigger to accept the steel pipe. I still have some sand
mix concrete that I'll use to stuff the tile voids. When that
concrete is cured I'll start installing the septic system.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Mike

http://imgur.com/KVFXjOA

http://imgur.com/M7Iw7oJ

http://imgur.com/fEmuYrU

http://imgur.com/JxNhEOv

http://imgur.com/MBXriPH

http://imgur.com/4o0QrQa

In ,
Mike typed:
On 2016-03-31, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 19:23:10 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 02:04:46 -0000 (UTC), Mike
wrote:


For the folks that asked, here are some pictures (I hope this
works) of the brick/tile. Also, these tiles are 5" thick.

Mike

http://imgur.com/TkSLKCg

http://imgur.com/Hb475uq

http://imgur.com/2C7ZelN

Thanks. It shouldn't be very difficult to use a bit to get through
those with a circular drill bit.. I can't imagine a cold chisel
would be needed. I'd guess the are fairly soft and not filled with
concrete.

BTW, use a long masonry bit to drill through the wall. It gives you
an alignment method so you can cut the hole from /on either side. So
they match up. And the pipe fits in horizontally and not angled.

Thanks. I bought a hole saw. I couldn't get it to work well, so I
rented a "small bore drill" and a 4"x17" bit or hole saw. These are
the pictures of boring through the tile. I bored a hole that is
12.25" long. In two of the pictures is a small hole. This hole is
from using a mortar bit from the inside. I mueasured right and the
4" diameter hole I bored covers and takes out the hole from the
mortar bit.

Because of the internal structure of the tile I won't try to grind
the tile bigger to accept the steel pipe. I still have some sand
mix concrete that I'll use to stuff the tile voids. When that
concrete is cured I'll start installing the septic system.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Mike

http://imgur.com/KVFXjOA

http://imgur.com/M7Iw7oJ

http://imgur.com/fEmuYrU

http://imgur.com/JxNhEOv

http://imgur.com/MBXriPH

http://imgur.com/4o0QrQa

Wow, you were really serious about doing this and about cutting a perfectly
round hole!

What I wrote before about you not having to worry about structural issues
still holds. That's because it is a continuous solid-but-hollow block wall.
And you were not drilling through a joist etc. So, the whole rest of the
wall provides the support structure. And, if you also fill the block in
around the pipe, there will be way more than enough structural support.

On 2016-04-02, LenJP wrote:
In ,
Mike typed:
On 2016-03-31, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 19:23:10 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 02:04:46 -0000 (UTC), Mike
wrote:


For the folks that asked, here are some pictures (I hope this
works) of the brick/tile. Also, these tiles are 5" thick.

Mike

http://imgur.com/TkSLKCg

http://imgur.com/Hb475uq

http://imgur.com/2C7ZelN

Thanks. It shouldn't be very difficult to use a bit to get through
those with a circular drill bit.. I can't imagine a cold chisel
would be needed. I'd guess the are fairly soft and not filled with
concrete.

BTW, use a long masonry bit to drill through the wall. It gives you
an alignment method so you can cut the hole from /on either side. So
they match up. And the pipe fits in horizontally and not angled.

Thanks. I bought a hole saw. I couldn't get it to work well, so I
rented a "small bore drill" and a 4"x17" bit or hole saw. These are
the pictures of boring through the tile. I bored a hole that is
12.25" long. In two of the pictures is a small hole. This hole is
from using a mortar bit from the inside. I mueasured right and the
4" diameter hole I bored covers and takes out the hole from the
mortar bit.

Because of the internal structure of the tile I won't try to grind
the tile bigger to accept the steel pipe. I still have some sand
mix concrete that I'll use to stuff the tile voids. When that
concrete is cured I'll start installing the septic system.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Mike

http://imgur.com/KVFXjOA

http://imgur.com/M7Iw7oJ

http://imgur.com/fEmuYrU

http://imgur.com/JxNhEOv

http://imgur.com/MBXriPH

http://imgur.com/4o0QrQa

Wow, you were really serious about doing this and about cutting a perfectly
round hole!

What I wrote before about you not having to worry about structural issues
still holds. That's because it is a continuous solid-but-hollow block wall.
And you were not drilling through a joist etc. So, the whole rest of the
wall provides the support structure. And, if you also fill the block in
around the pipe, there will be way more than enough structural support.



Thank you. I had a left over partial bag of sand mix (guessing about
25% of the bag). I mixed it and tried to fill hollow spaces near
the bored hole. When the concrete sets I'll start the septic
connections. Hopefully there won't be any issues, but ... I had
some concrete left over ...

Mike