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Default Crack repair in drywall

Hi, a significant crack has developed in the drywall between the living room and kitchen. I think the weight of the pot rack has, over time, contributed to the crack, but I'm not taking it down..
I've repaired smaller cracks with spackle, sanding and a coat of paint, but since this is larger, and the pot rack will still be hanging there, I want to make a more robust fix, if possible.
IS there a better way to fix the crack ? Thanks

Here's a pictu

http://tinypic.com/r/1zxl0gm/9
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A lot depends on what is above the layer of spackle. Is it dry wall, plaster and lath, ect. It appears to be an older house, is this the case? If so it may be lath and plaster. To correct the issue I would start by making sure the pot hanger is properly anchored into a beam, and not just the lath. After that the best way would be to remove about 4 inches from around the crack(2-3 in. on each side) then insure the lath above it is in good shape and re plaster.

Hope this helps!

J

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No, no earthquakes in my area. But I can check the foundation to be sure.
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On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 1:24:38 PM UTC-5, wrote:
No, no earthquakes in my area. But I can check the foundation to be sure.


Better grab a shovel.


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I'm not so sure that's related to the potholder at all.

Is there any chance that's water damage?
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On 02/19/2016 12:43 PM, TimR wrote:
I'm not so sure that's related to the potholder at all.

Is there any chance that's water damage?




If the eye hook uses a toggle bolt which will pull on the drywall, that
could be a problem.

OTOH: If it's screwed into a wooden stud then it's probably not the cause.
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Little chance its water damage, however, it is possible that there was some structural work done in this area before I owned the house. We think there had once been a wall between the living room and the kitchen that wall was removed, and if so it would have stood right about there.
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the hooks for the pot rack are screwed deeply in to beams. Thanks
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Default Crack repair in drywall



On 02/19/2016 12:21 PM, wrote:




IS there a better way to fix the crack ? Thanks Here's a pictu

Fill the crack with painter's cauk.


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On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 09:21:47 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi, a significant crack has developed in the drywall between the living room and kitchen. I think the weight of the pot rack has, over time, contributed to the crack, but I'm not taking it down..
I've repaired smaller cracks with spackle, sanding and a coat of paint, but since this is larger, and the pot rack will still be hanging there, I want to make a more robust fix, if possible.
IS there a better way to fix the crack ? Thanks

Here's a pictu

http://tinypic.com/r/1zxl0gm/9

Am I seeing the crack on the ceiling and also a vertical one on the
wall, too? Maybe the tape has failed at the joints and needs to be
redone. (remove old tape, cleanup and redo the seams)

Some tips: http://www.drywallschool.com/crack.htm
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wrote:
Hi, a significant crack has developed in the drywall between the
living room and kitchen. I think the weight of the pot rack has, over
time, contributed to the crack, but I'm not taking it down.. I've
repaired smaller cracks with spackle, sanding and a coat of paint,
but since this is larger, and the pot rack will still be hanging
there, I want to make a more robust fix, if possible.
IS there a better way to fix the crack ? Thanks

Here's a pictu

http://tinypic.com/r/1zxl0gm/9

You need to...

1. Remove old corner bead (probably not well fastened)

2.Put on new corner bead, fastening well

3. Tape, mud, prime paint

You also need to remove the short segment of tape (the area without corner
bead), retape, mud, prime & paint it.


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Default Crack repair in drywall

TimR posted for all of us...



I'm not so sure that's related to the potholder at all.

Is there any chance that's water damage?


+1 That was my thought. Looks like the taped joint let loose. I don't see
any stains but... Investigate further. It's a kitchen and the hanger just
might have pulled the tape loose, along with the moisture from that big bowl
of spaghetti you are making for us.

--
Tekkie
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Default Crack repair in drywall

On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 12:58:48 -0600, philo wrote:

On 02/19/2016 12:43 PM, TimR wrote:
I'm not so sure that's related to the potholder at all.

Is there any chance that's water damage?




If the eye hook uses a toggle bolt which will pull on the drywall, that
could be a problem.

OTOH: If it's screwed into a wooden stud then it's probably not the cause.

The pot holder didn't crack the wall. My suspiscion is a combination
of a weak foundation and a bad roof.


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Default Crack repair in drywall

On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 15:02:42 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 5:24:27 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 11:01:23 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Little chance its water damage, however, it is possible that there was some structural work done in this area before I owned the house. We think there had once been a wall between the living room and the kitchen that wall was removed, and if so it would have stood right about there.

And it was likely a "load bearing" wall. There is definitely a
structural issue there somewhere - the problem is a lot deeper than
just drywall.


Holy crap!

I couldn't view the picture until I got home, so I was just reading the responses about retaping, replacing corner bead, etc.

Then I get home and click the link to the pictures, fully expecting to see some minor drywall damage, a few hours of work, etc. But holy crap, that's not just a seam repair.

In the second picture you can see a horizontal crack that runs behind the curtain. I'll bet
dollars to donuts that if you pull the curtain back you'll that the crack starts at the top
of the rough opening of the window.

There is definitely some structural issue going on. Something settled and may be
continuing to settle.


I thought I saw the crack by the curtain to, a vertical one coming
down from the ceiling, then going right and one on the ceiling. That's
why I asked the OP if my view was correct.

OP take better (closer) photos, post the links and comment on the
outside wall construction. Is it block, a header beam broke / roof
truss dropped?


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Default Crack repair in drywall

On 2016-02-19 6:55 PM, Eagle wrote:
Gordon Shumway formulated the question :
On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 13:28:49 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 4:18:19 PM UTC-5, Eagle wrote:
explained :
No, no earthquakes in my area. But I can check the foundation to be
sure.

I read ahead some. There was a wall right about where thewall and
lid are sepparating? I'd check the framing and see if it meets code.
A metal tie-in strap, more framing to strenthen the wall and soffit,
ETC. Is the walls made of driwall or plaster?

I don't think it's settling if the crack is only here.

I suspect when they took the wall out they did a less than perfect
job of taping up the old exposed area. If so, just rip out the tape
and do it right and you'll be fine.


I agree that when the wall was removed whoever did the job did a less
than perfect job, but not of taping. They probably did a poor job of
structurally supporting what the wall used to support.

My guess is the wall surface is lathe and plaster, not drywall and tape.


He did say driwall, so it would be bast to ask Him if it's driwall or
plaster.
We both agree the framing is most likely the problem, so patching the
tape and compound is just covering the reason for the cracks.
All we can do is judge what those two pictures show, and to Me, the
framing is the cause of those cracks.


I am actually going to agree with you, just this once. :-)
That is way more than a crack, serious structural problem going on, get
a professional opinion, a band aid will not fix that long term.
--
Froz...

Quando omni flunkus, moritati


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Default Crack repair in drywall

On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 8:08:47 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Don't KNOW it was load bearing, but looking at the damage it is very
consistent with poor structural integrety - and hearing there used to
be a wall there it all just makes sense. Also what little was shown in
the picture of the surrounding building features


I looked at the photo again on a better monitor and I see a lot of cracking I missed the first time.

This one is begging for somebody who knows what they are doing to look at it in person. I think a significant structural issue is possible.

The pattern of cracks looks like it may be following a block wall? Too much unknown here.

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On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 8:40:44 PM UTC-5, TimR wrote:
On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 8:08:47 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Don't KNOW it was load bearing, but looking at the damage it is very
consistent with poor structural integrety - and hearing there used to
be a wall there it all just makes sense. Also what little was shown in
the picture of the surrounding building features


I looked at the photo again on a better monitor and I see a lot of cracking I missed the first time.

This one is begging for somebody who knows what they are doing to look at it in person. I think a significant structural issue is possible.

The pattern of cracks looks like it may be following a block wall? Too much unknown here.


PS I think the wall is moving because it wasn't a bearing wall, it was a shear wall. Somebody took a look, determined it wasn't bearing, and thought it could come out, not realizing there are other forces a wall may be resisting.
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On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 16:27:24 -0500, "TomR" wrote:

In ,
typed:
Little chance its water damage, however, it is possible that there
was some structural work done in this area before I owned the house.
We think there had once been a wall between the living room and the
kitchen that wall was removed, and if so it would have stood right
about there.


I have a hunch that's the source of the problem -- that there used to be a
wall there that has since been removed.

Also, I suspect that it isn't drywall -- but instead maybe wood lath
underneath with plaster over the wood lath.

Regardless, I think you would need to start by removing some of what is
there along the ceiling crack first -- to get down to whatever is
underneath. If you find that it is plaster over some type of lath (wood or
wire), you'll have to do the repair from that point forward. That may
require securing the wood lath, or removing a whole section and replacing
with sheetrock.

Maybe you could take some off and take another photo or two and post the
photo(s) here.



I once lived in a house that was added on to. The addition was built on
concrete blocks that aooarently was not put below the frost line. Every
year the two corners of the room cracked, and a spot under a window
mid-wall. After patching it at least 5 times, I bought some quarter
round molding for all 4 corners, and some flat trim which was about 1/4"
thick and 1 1/4" wide. I nailed them over the cracks and painted them to
match the walls. Those cracks could shift all they want, becuse they
were covered by that trim. Some people would not accept this "Fix" but I
just got tired of patching it, and knowing it would crack again.....




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Default Crack repair in drywall

Is that a skylight shaft above? It looks like
there was faulty construction building that.
Hard to know not seeing the site. But it's
possible you can make a permanent fix. Scrape
off what's sticking up and loose. Then use
fiberglass mesh tape to span the crack. Then
use Durabond 90 as a first coat. It's like flexible
plaster of paris. Very hard. Then finish with
joint compound and sand it or sponge it.

It doesn't work as well to use normal joint
compound for all layers because it has no
strength. It's not much more than a chalk
deposit. Spackle is similar. The newer lightweight
spackle is pretty good, but it's still not made
for strength. It will usually re-crack over time.
The joint tape acts like rebars in concrete and
won't re-crack in most situations.


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Default Crack repair in drywall

FrozenNorth has brought this to us :
On 2016-02-19 6:55 PM, Eagle wrote:
Gordon Shumway formulated the question :
On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 13:28:49 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 4:18:19 PM UTC-5, Eagle wrote:
explained :
No, no earthquakes in my area. But I can check the foundation to be
sure.

I read ahead some. There was a wall right about where thewall and
lid are sepparating? I'd check the framing and see if it meets code.
A metal tie-in strap, more framing to strenthen the wall and soffit,
ETC. Is the walls made of driwall or plaster?

I don't think it's settling if the crack is only here.

I suspect when they took the wall out they did a less than perfect
job of taping up the old exposed area. If so, just rip out the tape
and do it right and you'll be fine.

I agree that when the wall was removed whoever did the job did a less
than perfect job, but not of taping. They probably did a poor job of
structurally supporting what the wall used to support.

My guess is the wall surface is lathe and plaster, not drywall and tape.


He did say driwall, so it would be bast to ask Him if it's driwall or
plaster.
We both agree the framing is most likely the problem, so patching the
tape and compound is just covering the reason for the cracks.
All we can do is judge what those two pictures show, and to Me, the
framing is the cause of those cracks.


I am actually going to agree with you, just this once. :-)


Oh ****, the world is coming to an end! :')

That is way more than a crack, serious structural problem going on, get a
professional opinion, a band aid will not fix that long term.


I'd like to see the framing exposed and see if all this guessing has
merit. Maybe He will post a few shots with the gypsum removed?
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laid this down on his screen :
On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 16:27:24 -0500, "TomR" wrote:

In ,
typed:
Little chance its water damage, however, it is possible that there
was some structural work done in this area before I owned the house.
We think there had once been a wall between the living room and the
kitchen that wall was removed, and if so it would have stood right
about there.


I have a hunch that's the source of the problem -- that there used to be a
wall there that has since been removed.

Also, I suspect that it isn't drywall -- but instead maybe wood lath
underneath with plaster over the wood lath.

Regardless, I think you would need to start by removing some of what is
there along the ceiling crack first -- to get down to whatever is
underneath. If you find that it is plaster over some type of lath (wood or
wire), you'll have to do the repair from that point forward. That may
require securing the wood lath, or removing a whole section and replacing
with sheetrock.

Maybe you could take some off and take another photo or two and post the
photo(s) here.



I once lived in a house that was added on to. The addition was built on
concrete blocks that aooarently was not put below the frost line. Every
year the two corners of the room cracked, and a spot under a window
mid-wall. After patching it at least 5 times, I bought some quarter
round molding for all 4 corners, and some flat trim which was about 1/4"
thick and 1 1/4" wide. I nailed them over the cracks and painted them to
match the walls. Those cracks could shift all they want, becuse they
were covered by that trim. Some people would not accept this "Fix" but I
just got tired of patching it, and knowing it would crack again.....


I wonder if waterproof paint on the exposed block would prevent
moisture getting into those blocks and causing the cracks....
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Default Crack repair in drywall

On Sat, 20 Feb 2016 03:34:50 -0600, wrote:

On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 16:27:24 -0500, "TomR" wrote:

In ,
typed:
Little chance its water damage, however, it is possible that there
was some structural work done in this area before I owned the house.
We think there had once been a wall between the living room and the
kitchen that wall was removed, and if so it would have stood right
about there.


I have a hunch that's the source of the problem -- that there used to be a
wall there that has since been removed.

Also, I suspect that it isn't drywall -- but instead maybe wood lath
underneath with plaster over the wood lath.

Regardless, I think you would need to start by removing some of what is
there along the ceiling crack first -- to get down to whatever is
underneath. If you find that it is plaster over some type of lath (wood or
wire), you'll have to do the repair from that point forward. That may
require securing the wood lath, or removing a whole section and replacing
with sheetrock.

Maybe you could take some off and take another photo or two and post the
photo(s) here.



I once lived in a house that was added on to. The addition was built on
concrete blocks that aooarently was not put below the frost line. Every
year the two corners of the room cracked, and a spot under a window
mid-wall. After patching it at least 5 times, I bought some quarter
round molding for all 4 corners, and some flat trim which was about 1/4"
thick and 1 1/4" wide. I nailed them over the cracks and painted them to
match the walls. Those cracks could shift all they want, becuse they
were covered by that trim. Some people would not accept this "Fix" but I
just got tired of patching it, and knowing it would crack again.....

My youngest brother once bought a small farm with a rather
"ramshackle" house on it. The foundations and floors were not level
and it was drafty as a barn when he bought it. He did some repairs and
modifications to make it "liveable". There was an early addition on
the hose that was more or less level and square. One day while he was
on the road and his wife was gone into town for shopping, the house
burned down. There was enough left for the fire marshall to determine
the fire was caused by an electrical cable running between the old
house and the addition which had been worn through thy the shifting
between the two parts of the structure over the years. It chose that
day to light the place.
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