House was built in 2005 and it seems the flooring people (or the plumbers) put the flanges on TOP of the flooring (tile and wood). First one I ended up having a plumber cut away the wood flooring and reinstall the flange so it was flush with the flooring. Seals perfectly with normal wax ring, never had a problem again.

Now another toilet looked like the wax ring gave way. I pulled up the toilet some leakage on the tile floor and of course the flange was installed on TOP of the tile ! ! For fun I tried the no-seep #10 wax ring, and trying to press it down I can see the bottom of the toilet is contacting the flange and the toilet itself barely hits the floor. I am worried I'd get a rockering effect and the ring would give away over time. So I pulled it up and sure enough the wax ring and the black seal part had separated.

So my first question (since I noticed the old ring had a ton of wax and there didn't seem to be a black seal part on it), is there some other wax ring that might have worked? Heck it lasted for 10 years.

Or should I just suck it up and pay the plumber to lower the flange? This one is more nasty because it is on the second floor and they will have to open up the dinning room ceiling.

Pictures he

http://ibin.co/2T0f8UyUyDO8
http://ibin.co/2T0fPfddarOu
http://ibin.co/2T0fc9wHgOWj


Thanks.

On Sunday, January 10, 2016 at 1:45:31 PM UTC-6, noname wrote:
House was built in 2005 and it seems the flooring people (or the plumbers) put the flanges on TOP of the flooring (tile and wood). First one I ended up having a plumber cut away the wood flooring and reinstall the flange so it was flush with the flooring. Seals perfectly with normal wax ring, never had a problem again.

Now another toilet looked like the wax ring gave way. I pulled up the toilet some leakage on the tile floor and of course the flange was installed on TOP of the tile ! ! For fun I tried the no-seep #10 wax ring, and trying to press it down I can see the bottom of the toilet is contacting the flange and the toilet itself barely hits the floor. I am worried I'd get a rockering effect and the ring would give away over time. So I pulled it up and sure enough the wax ring and the black seal part had separated.

So my first question (since I noticed the old ring had a ton of wax and there didn't seem to be a black seal part on it), is there some other wax ring that might have worked? Heck it lasted for 10 years.

Or should I just suck it up and pay the plumber to lower the flange? This one is more nasty because it is on the second floor and they will have to open up the dinning room ceiling.

Pictures he

http://ibin.co/2T0f8UyUyDO8
http://ibin.co/2T0fPfddarOu
http://ibin.co/2T0fc9wHgOWj


Thanks.

http://tinyurl.com/hkzrp2o

On 1/10/2016 2:45 PM, noname wrote:
House was built in 2005 and it seems the flooring people (or the plumbers) put the flanges on TOP of the flooring (tile and wood). First one I ended up having a plumber cut away the wood flooring and reinstall the flange so it was flush with the flooring. Seals perfectly with normal wax ring, never had a problem again.

Now another toilet looked like the wax ring gave way. I pulled up the toilet some leakage on the tile floor and of course the flange was installed on TOP of the tile ! ! For fun I tried the no-seep #10 wax ring, and trying to press it down I can see the bottom of the toilet is contacting the flange and the toilet itself barely hits the floor. I am worried I'd get a rockering effect and the ring would give away over time. So I pulled it up and sure enough the wax ring and the black seal part had separated.

So my first question (since I noticed the old ring had a ton of wax and there didn't seem to be a black seal part on it), is there some other wax ring that might have worked? Heck it lasted for 10 years.

Or should I just suck it up and pay the plumber to lower the flange? This one is more nasty because it is on the second floor and they will have to open up the dinning room ceiling.

Pictures he

http://ibin.co/2T0f8UyUyDO8
http://ibin.co/2T0fPfddarOu
http://ibin.co/2T0fc9wHgOWj


Thanks.


I'm not sure what the answer is, but the existing setup worked for 10
years. What did they do 10 years ago that you cannot do now? If you
can duplicate it you will save a lot of money.

Does it sit solid with no seal? If so, can you buy a thinner one or
shave a wax seal?

On Sun, 10 Jan 2016 15:03:47 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 1/10/2016 2:45 PM, noname wrote:
House was built in 2005 and it seems the flooring people (or the plumbers) put the flanges on TOP of the flooring (tile and wood). First one I ended up having a plumber cut away the wood flooring and reinstall the flange so it was flush with the flooring. Seals perfectly with normal wax ring, never had a problem again.

Now another toilet looked like the wax ring gave way. I pulled up the toilet some leakage on the tile floor and of course the flange was installed on TOP of the tile ! ! For fun I tried the no-seep #10 wax ring, and trying to press it down I can see the bottom of the toilet is contacting the flange and the toilet itself barely hits the floor. I am worried I'd get a rockering effect and the ring would give away over time. So I pulled it up and sure enough the wax ring and the black seal part had separated.

So my first question (since I noticed the old ring had a ton of wax and there didn't seem to be a black seal part on it), is there some other wax ring that might have worked? Heck it lasted for 10 years.

Or should I just suck it up and pay the plumber to lower the flange? This one is more nasty because it is on the second floor and they will have to open up the dinning room ceiling.

Pictures he

http://ibin.co/2T0f8UyUyDO8
http://ibin.co/2T0fPfddarOu
http://ibin.co/2T0fc9wHgOWj


Thanks.


I'm not sure what the answer is, but the existing setup worked for 10
years. What did they do 10 years ago that you cannot do now? If you
can duplicate it you will save a lot of money.

Does it sit solid with no seal? If so, can you buy a thinner one or
shave a wax seal?

Or try a Fernco Wax Free Toilet Seal.

https://www.fernco.com/plumbing/wax-free-toilet-seal

....reusable

On Sun, 10 Jan 2016 15:03:47 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Thanks.


I'm not sure what the answer is, but the existing setup worked for 10
years. What did they do 10 years ago that you cannot do now? If you
can duplicate it you will save a lot of money.

Does it sit solid with no seal? If so, can you buy a thinner one or
shave a wax seal?

You could get a piece of 1/4" treated plywood, cut it to fit the base of
the toilet. Then cut a hole in it to fit around the flange. Align it so
it's exactly where he toilet will sit, put a few nails or screws into it
to attach it to the floor. Then mount the toilet in the usual manner, on
top of this plywood.

You're toilet will be 1/4" higher, and you'll see the edge of the
plywood around the base of it, but it will make a good seal and save a
lot of expense. Some white caulk should hide the plywood edge pretty
well too.

On Sunday, January 10, 2016 at 2:45:31 PM UTC-5, noname wrote:
House was built in 2005 and it seems the flooring people (or the plumbers) put the flanges on TOP of the flooring (tile and wood). First one I ended up having a plumber cut away the wood flooring and reinstall the flange so it was flush with the flooring. Seals perfectly with normal wax ring, never had a problem again.

Now another toilet looked like the wax ring gave way. I pulled up the toilet some leakage on the tile floor and of course the flange was installed on TOP of the tile ! ! For fun I tried the no-seep #10 wax ring, and trying to press it down I can see the bottom of the toilet is contacting the flange and the toilet itself barely hits the floor. I am worried I'd get a rockering effect and the ring would give away over time. So I pulled it up and sure enough the wax ring and the black seal part had separated.

So my first question (since I noticed the old ring had a ton of wax and there didn't seem to be a black seal part on it), is there some other wax ring that might have worked? Heck it lasted for 10 years.

Or should I just suck it up and pay the plumber to lower the flange? This one is more nasty because it is on the second floor and they will have to open up the dinning room ceiling.

Pictures he

http://ibin.co/2T0f8UyUyDO8
http://ibin.co/2T0fPfddarOu
http://ibin.co/2T0fc9wHgOWj


Thanks.

What was there before? If it was a standard profile wax seal, why not just use
one of those again?

I found this in another forum:

"You can estimate which height ring is needed and if a flange is a good idea or
not by placing a straight edge along the base of the inverted toilet and
measuring from the straight edge to the ceiling of the toilet base. Adjust this
measurement by how high or low the floor flange surface is from finished floor.
The wax ring should be compressed around 1/2 to 3/4 it's initial height once
installed. If it will compress less, you need a taller ring. If it will compress more,
consider getting one with a flange to limit wax extrusion into the drainage
path."


Just FYI...I tried a wax free seal from Home Depot on a flange that is level with
the tile. I could not get the toilet to touch the floor and ended up going back to
a wax seal.

On Sun, 10 Jan 2016 14:41:03 -0600, wrote:

On Sun, 10 Jan 2016 15:03:47 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Thanks.


I'm not sure what the answer is, but the existing setup worked for 10
years. What did they do 10 years ago that you cannot do now? If you
can duplicate it you will save a lot of money.

Does it sit solid with no seal? If so, can you buy a thinner one or
shave a wax seal?

You could get a piece of 1/4" treated plywood, cut it to fit the base of
the toilet. Then cut a hole in it to fit around the flange. Align it so
it's exactly where he toilet will sit, put a few nails or screws into it
to attach it to the floor. Then mount the toilet in the usual manner, on
top of this plywood.

You're toilet will be 1/4" higher, and you'll see the edge of the
plywood around the base of it, but it will make a good seal and save a
lot of expense. Some white caulk should hide the plywood edge pretty
well too.
Use a piece of plexiglass or other plastic as a slightly larger than
toilet base flange (cut to clear the pipe flange) and bolt the toilet
down to the flange mount points with a wax seal. Prime and paint plastic
if the color is not suitable.
--
Mr.E

On Sun, 10 Jan 2016 12:52:48 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

What was there before? If it was a standard profile wax seal, why not just use
one of those again?

I found this in another forum:

"You can estimate which height ring is needed and if a flange is a good idea or
not by placing a straight edge along the base of the inverted toilet and
measuring from the straight edge to the ceiling of the toilet base. Adjust this
measurement by how high or low the floor flange surface is from finished floor.
The wax ring should be compressed around 1/2 to 3/4 it's initial height once
installed. If it will compress less, you need a taller ring. If it will compress more,
consider getting one with a flange to limit wax extrusion into the drainage
path."


Just FYI...I tried a wax free seal from Home Depot on a flange that is level with
the tile. I could not get the toilet to touch the floor and ended up going back to
a wax seal.

Just as bad as a flange that is too high, is one that's too low. I knew
a flooring guy who would install underlayment and new flooring in a
bathroom. Then the flange was sometimes as much as a half inch too low.
The solution was to install TWO wax rings stacked on top of each other.
It did work! Of course if the first wax ring had that built in plastic
piece, the top one had to be a PLAIN wax ring ONLY.

I've never used the wax-free types. They may work well on a flange
that's perfectly level with the floor, but if it's not, you might end of
cracking your toilet by having to over tighten the bolts. Wax rings are
one of those things that cant be improved. They have worked well for
many years. But like everything else, there's always someone who wants
to get into your wallet to sell you something that is supposedly "new
and improved". (Most of them are probably employed by Microsoft too .

House was built in 2005 and it seems the flooring people (or the plumbers)
put the flanges on TOP of the flooring (tile and wood).
First one I ended up having a plumber cut away the wood flooring and
reinstall the flange so it was flush with the flooring.
Seals perfectly with normal wax ring, never had a problem again.
Now another toilet looked like the wax ring gave way. I pulled up the toilet
some leakage on the tile floor and of course the flange was installed on TOP of the tile !
For fun I tried the no-seep #10 wax ring, and trying to press it down I can see
the bottom of the toilet is contacting the flange and the toilet itself barely hits the floor.
I am worried I'd get a rockering effect and the ring would give away over time.
So I pulled it up and sure enough the wax ring and the black seal part had separated.
So my first question (since I noticed the old ring had a ton of wax and there didn't
seem to be a black seal part on it), is there some other wax ring that might have worked?
Heck it lasted for 10 years.
Or should I just suck it up and pay the plumber to lower the flange?
This one is more nasty because it is on the second floor and they will have to
open up the dinning room ceiling.
Pictures he
http://ibin.co/2T0f8UyUyDO8
http://ibin.co/2T0fPfddarOu
http://ibin.co/2T0fc9wHgOWj

Thanks.


The closet flange is supposed to be on top of the finished floor.
Are you saying that yours is sticking up beyond that ?
pics aren't very clear to me
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Closet_flange

John T.


--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

On Sun, 10 Jan 2016 17:10:09 -0500, wrote:


The closet flange is supposed to be on top of the finished floor.
Are you saying that yours is sticking up beyond that ?
pics aren't very clear to me
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Closet_flange

John T.

The old cast iron flanges did sit in top, but they were thin and the
linoleum made them almost level. These plastic ones are much thicker.
On top of that, it seems some toilets do not allow for a thick flange.
Poor toilet design.... The OP might consider a new toilet as an
alternative "fix" for this. But it would have to be measured to know for
sure if it will work. The cheapest method is still to build up the
toilet with plywood or another material.

On Sun, 10 Jan 2016 15:03:47 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

I'm not sure what the answer is, but the existing setup worked for 10
years. What did they do 10 years ago that you cannot do now? If you
can duplicate it you will save a lot of money.

Does it sit solid with no seal? If so, can you buy a thinner one or
shave a wax seal?

There is another solution. Throw the toilet away. Build a wooden box
over the flange and attach it to the floor and wall. Cut a circle in the
top of the wooden box, and put a traffic cone in that hole, upside down.
Be sure to put the pointed end of the traffic cone into the flange hole.
Mount a toilet seat if you desire one, over the base of the cone.

You now have a toilet. To flush, just pour a bucket of water into the
cone, or connect a longer hose to your portable shower head and spray it
down the cone.

ENJOY !!!!

In ,
noname typed:
House was built in 2005 and it seems the flooring people (or the
plumbers) put the flanges on TOP of the flooring (tile and wood).
First one I ended up having a plumber cut away the wood flooring and
reinstall the flange so it was flush with the flooring. Seals
perfectly with normal wax ring, never had a problem again.

Now another toilet looked like the wax ring gave way. I pulled up
the toilet some leakage on the tile floor and of course the flange
was installed on TOP of the tile ! ! For fun I tried the no-seep
#10 wax ring, and trying to press it down I can see the bottom of the
toilet is contacting the flange and the toilet itself barely hits the
floor. I am worried I'd get a rockering effect and the ring would
give away over time. So I pulled it up and sure enough the wax ring
and the black seal part had separated.

So my first question (since I noticed the old ring had a ton of wax
and there didn't seem to be a black seal part on it), is there some
other wax ring that might have worked? Heck it lasted for 10 years.

Or should I just suck it up and pay the plumber to lower the flange?
This one is more nasty because it is on the second floor and they
will have to open up the dinning room ceiling.

Pictures he

http://ibin.co/2T0f8UyUyDO8
http://ibin.co/2T0fPfddarOu
http://ibin.co/2T0fc9wHgOWj


Maybe one of these would work:
http://www.oatey.com/doc/Toilet_Base_Plate.pdf

On Monday, January 11, 2016 at 3:57:40 PM UTC-5, TomR wrote:
In ,
noname typed:
House was built in 2005 and it seems the flooring people (or the
plumbers) put the flanges on TOP of the flooring (tile and wood).
First one I ended up having a plumber cut away the wood flooring and
reinstall the flange so it was flush with the flooring. Seals
perfectly with normal wax ring, never had a problem again.

Now another toilet looked like the wax ring gave way. I pulled up
the toilet some leakage on the tile floor and of course the flange
was installed on TOP of the tile ! ! For fun I tried the no-seep
#10 wax ring, and trying to press it down I can see the bottom of the
toilet is contacting the flange and the toilet itself barely hits the
floor. I am worried I'd get a rockering effect and the ring would
give away over time. So I pulled it up and sure enough the wax ring
and the black seal part had separated.

So my first question (since I noticed the old ring had a ton of wax
and there didn't seem to be a black seal part on it), is there some
other wax ring that might have worked? Heck it lasted for 10 years.

Or should I just suck it up and pay the plumber to lower the flange?
This one is more nasty because it is on the second floor and they
will have to open up the dinning room ceiling.

Pictures he

http://ibin.co/2T0f8UyUyDO8
http://ibin.co/2T0fPfddarOu
http://ibin.co/2T0fc9wHgOWj


Maybe one of these would work:
http://www.oatey.com/doc/Toilet_Base_Plate.pdf

For some reason I get the feeling that those plates make a lot of sense in theory, but
in real life, they never seem to really work out.

By that I mean, round nose or straight, they will always look like an add-on, an attempt
to fix a problem, something that just doesn't belong. They may solve the actual problem,
but they won't just blend in.

I could be wrong, just a feeling.

On Monday, January 11, 2016 at 6:03:46 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:

For some reason I get the feeling that those plates make a lot of sense in theory, but
in real life, they never seem to really work out.

By that I mean, round nose or straight, they will always look like an add-on, an attempt
to fix a problem, something that just doesn't belong. They may solve the actual problem,
but they won't just blend in.

I could be wrong, just a feeling.

....something you might be happy with in your cabin, but not your home. Ø*ᇂﮌᇂ)

On 1/11/2016 7:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, January 11, 2016 at 3:57:40 PM UTC-5, TomR wrote:

Maybe one of these would work:
http://www.oatey.com/doc/Toilet_Base_Plate.pdf

For some reason I get the feeling that those plates make a lot of sense in theory, but
in real life, they never seem to really work out.

By that I mean, round nose or straight, they will always look like an add-on, an attempt
to fix a problem, something that just doesn't belong. They may solve the actual problem,
but they won't just blend in.

I could be wrong, just a feeling.


If that's your biggest problem, you lead a charmed life.

Meanwhile in middle America we have 20% plus unemployment,
winter weather, high heating bills, and expensive health
care, and rampant inflation.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 1/10/2016 11:54 AM, bob_villain wrote:
On Sunday, January 10, 2016 at 1:45:31 PM UTC-6, noname wrote:
House was built in 2005 and it seems the flooring people (or the plumbers) put the flanges on TOP of the flooring (tile and wood). First one I ended up having a plumber cut away the wood flooring and reinstall the flange so it was flush with the flooring. Seals perfectly with normal wax ring, never had a problem again.

Now another toilet looked like the wax ring gave way. I pulled up the toilet some leakage on the tile floor and of course the flange was installed on TOP of the tile ! ! For fun I tried the no-seep #10 wax ring, and trying to press it down I can see the bottom of the toilet is contacting the flange and the toilet itself barely hits the floor. I am worried I'd get a rockering effect and the ring would give away over time. So I pulled it up and sure enough the wax ring and the black seal part had separated.

So my first question (since I noticed the old ring had a ton of wax and there didn't seem to be a black seal part on it), is there some other wax ring that might have worked? Heck it lasted for 10 years.

Or should I just suck it up and pay the plumber to lower the flange? This one is more nasty because it is on the second floor and they will have to open up the dinning room ceiling.

Pictures he

http://ibin.co/2T0f8UyUyDO8
http://ibin.co/2T0fPfddarOu
http://ibin.co/2T0fc9wHgOWj


Thanks.

http://tinyurl.com/hkzrp2o


Stick to rolling tacos, Bob. We don't like Home Cheapo.

In ,
DerbyDad03 typed:
On Monday, January 11, 2016 at 3:57:40 PM UTC-5, TomR wrote:
In ,
noname typed:
House was built in 2005 and it seems the flooring people (or the
plumbers) put the flanges on TOP of the flooring (tile and wood).
First one I ended up having a plumber cut away the wood flooring and
reinstall the flange so it was flush with the flooring. Seals
perfectly with normal wax ring, never had a problem again.

Now another toilet looked like the wax ring gave way. I pulled up
the toilet some leakage on the tile floor and of course the flange
was installed on TOP of the tile ! ! For fun I tried the no-seep
#10 wax ring, and trying to press it down I can see the bottom of
the toilet is contacting the flange and the toilet itself barely
hits the floor. I am worried I'd get a rockering effect and the
ring would give away over time. So I pulled it up and sure enough
the wax ring and the black seal part had separated.

So my first question (since I noticed the old ring had a ton of wax
and there didn't seem to be a black seal part on it), is there some
other wax ring that might have worked? Heck it lasted for 10 years.

Or should I just suck it up and pay the plumber to lower the flange?
This one is more nasty because it is on the second floor and they
will have to open up the dinning room ceiling.

Pictures he

http://ibin.co/2T0f8UyUyDO8
http://ibin.co/2T0fPfddarOu
http://ibin.co/2T0fc9wHgOWj

Maybe one of these would work:
http://www.oatey.com/doc/Toilet_Base_Plate.pdf

For some reason I get the feeling that those plates make a lot of
sense in theory, but in real life, they never seem to really work out.

By that I mean, round nose or straight, they will always look like an
add-on, an attempt to fix a problem, something that just doesn't
belong. They may solve the actual problem, but they won't just blend
in.

I could be wrong, just a feeling.

I think you are right about that. They are one option, but they are not
perfect.

I had one situation where I needed to raise a toilet a small amount for
essentially the same situation that the OP had -- an old house, a cast iron
flange that was too high, and I was replacing the toilet. It is not an
owner-occupied property, more like a rental. I couldn't find the oval
version of the toilet base plate anywhere so I bought the square version at
Lowes -- that's all they had. They are fairly thin (maybe 1/8 inch or so)
and the specs do not say how thick they are. I can't remember for sure, but
I think I put two together (one on top of the other) and they have a
notching system so they line up correctly with each other. They do stick
out past the toilet perimeter so they are not cut to the exact shape of the
toilet base, and it does not seem very likely that cutting them to match the
exact toilet perimeter would work. In a way, they are made to look like a
base or "pedestal"(?) that the toilet sits on.

I think they would look okay enough, and they solved what I needed -- which
was basiclly to pass a third party inspection. The problem that I had was
that the square/rectangular one is too short in length for the toilet that I
have. So, it looks a little funky and I had to caulk around the front of
the toilet to make it look okay. If I could have found the oval one, that
would have been fine and I think it would have looked okay even for a
homeowner in an owner-occupied property.

I wasn't in the mood to try cutting a pattern in 1/4 inch plywood to make a
custom fit base and then caulk around that perimeter, so I went with one of
these. Admittedly, it was sort of a hack job on my part, but it solved what
I needed. If I had the oval model -- assuming that it would have fit
correctly to make an oval base for the toilet to sit on, I think it would
have looked good. They don't look bad in real life, except for the wrong
model fit issue that I had.