Our GE JB700SNSS range went dead. The circuit breaker didn't blow. Before I could get time to pull the range out to test
to make sure the main supply was good, it started working again. Or so I thought. The clock is working, but the top
elements don't heat. Since the clock is working, it's not the power. What else could the problem be besides the control
module?

On 1/6/2016 10:00 PM, mcp6453 wrote:
Our GE JB700SNSS range went dead. The circuit breaker didn't blow. Before I could get time to pull the range out to test
to make sure the main supply was good, it started working again. Or so I thought. The clock is working, but the top
elements don't heat. Since the clock is working, it's not the power. What else could the problem be besides the control
module?


I'd reset the breaker just to be sure. And check for
220 VAC at the socket. The clock might be 110 VAC, and
you could have an open leg on the 220.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 1/6/2016 10:00 PM, mcp6453 wrote:
Our GE JB700SNSS range went dead. The circuit breaker didn't blow. Before I could get time to pull the range out to test
to make sure the main supply was good, it started working again. Or so I thought. The clock is working, but the top
elements don't heat. Since the clock is working, it's not the power. What else could the problem be besides the control
module?


Could be power. You need two legs to run the burners, only one leg for
the 110V clock and lights. Before you do anything else, turn the
breaker off and then back on.

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 12:37:10 PM UTC-6, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/6/2016 10:00 PM, mcp6453 wrote:
Our GE JB700SNSS range went dead. The circuit breaker didn't blow. Before I could get time to pull the range out to test
to make sure the main supply was good, it started working again. Or so I thought. The clock is working, but the top
elements don't heat. Since the clock is working, it's not the power. What else could the problem be besides the control
module?


Could be power. You need two legs to run the burners, only one leg for
the 110V clock and lights. Before you do anything else, turn the
breaker off and then back on.

Already cover Ed...try to keep up! —”̯—”

On 1/7/2016 10:36 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 1/6/2016 10:00 PM, mcp6453 wrote:
Our GE JB700SNSS range went dead. The circuit breaker didn't blow. Before I could get time to pull the range out to test
to make sure the main supply was good, it started working again. Or so I thought. The clock is working, but the top
elements don't heat. Since the clock is working, it's not the power. What else could the problem be besides the control
module?


I'd reset the breaker just to be sure. And check for
220 VAC at the socket. The clock might be 110 VAC, and
you could have an open leg on the 220.


I did reset the breaker. It didn't help. The next step is to check the voltage on the outlet to make sure the breaker is
not bad.

On 1/7/2016 5:50 PM, mcp6453 wrote:
On 1/7/2016 10:36 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 1/6/2016 10:00 PM, mcp6453 wrote:
Our GE JB700SNSS range went dead. The circuit breaker didn't blow. Before I could get time to pull the range out to test
to make sure the main supply was good, it started working again. Or so I thought. The clock is working, but the top
elements don't heat. Since the clock is working, it's not the power. What else could the problem be besides the control
module?


I'd reset the breaker just to be sure. And check for
220 VAC at the socket. The clock might be 110 VAC, and
you could have an open leg on the 220.


I did reset the breaker. It didn't help. The next step is to check the voltage on the outlet to make sure the breaker is
not bad.


Best to check the simple things, first.
Good way to go.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 1/7/2016 5:50 PM, mcp6453 wrote:
On 1/7/2016 10:36 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 1/6/2016 10:00 PM, mcp6453 wrote:
Our GE JB700SNSS range went dead. The circuit breaker didn't blow.
Before I could get time to pull the range out to test
to make sure the main supply was good, it started working again. Or
so I thought. The clock is working, but the top
elements don't heat. Since the clock is working, it's not the power.
What else could the problem be besides the control
module?


I'd reset the breaker just to be sure. And check for
220 VAC at the socket. The clock might be 110 VAC, and
you could have an open leg on the 220.


I did reset the breaker. It didn't help. The next step is to check the
voltage on the outlet to make sure the breaker is
not bad.


Best to check the simple things, first.
Good way to go.

Old ranges with coil elements have screw in type fuses behind control
panel.
How is the unit?

On 1/8/2016 12:52 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 1/7/2016 5:50 PM, mcp6453 wrote:
On 1/7/2016 10:36 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 1/6/2016 10:00 PM, mcp6453 wrote:
Our GE JB700SNSS range went dead. The circuit breaker didn't blow.
Before I could get time to pull the range out to test
to make sure the main supply was good, it started working again. Or
so I thought. The clock is working, but the top
elements don't heat. Since the clock is working, it's not the power.
What else could the problem be besides the control
module?


I'd reset the breaker just to be sure. And check for
220 VAC at the socket. The clock might be 110 VAC, and
you could have an open leg on the 220.


I did reset the breaker. It didn't help. The next step is to check the
voltage on the outlet to make sure the breaker is
not bad.


Best to check the simple things, first.
Good way to go.

Old ranges with coil elements have screw in type fuses behind control panel.
How is the unit?

I haven't taken the control panel cover off yet. Is there a service manual for this thing? If there is, I can't find
one. They're probably so simple that people who know what they're doing don't need one. I can probably stumble my way
through it. It's good to know to look for fuses in the control panel.

In ,
mcp6453 typed:
Our GE JB700SNSS range went dead. The circuit breaker didn't blow.
Before I could get time to pull the range out to test to make sure
the main supply was good, it started working again. Or so I thought.
The clock is working, but the top elements don't heat. Since the
clock is working, it's not the power. What else could the problem be
besides the control module?

Does the oven work? In other words, do you mean that the top elements don't
work, but the oven does work; or do you mean the top elements don't work and
the oven also doesn't work?

You may want to check the model number again. I think there is supposed to
be a number (1 through 5) between the "N" and the "SS" in the model number.

You can try looking at this website for information and begin by entering
the model number at the top of the main page (do not include the "GE" in the
model number, just the JB700SN.... part):
http://www.repairclinic.com/


There is also a good video on the website about how electric range/ovens
work and how to diagnose the problem:

http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHe...ing-JB700SN3SS



Also, I did a Google search for the owner's manual and it looks like you
should be able to find one online such as at:



http://www.manualslib.com/manual/587...Jsp39snss.html



Good luck, and let us know what you figure out if you get it solved.

In ,
mcp6453 typed:
Our GE JB700SNSS range went dead. The circuit breaker didn't blow.
Before I could get time to pull the range out to test to make sure
the main supply was good, it started working again. Or so I thought.
The clock is working, but the top elements don't heat. Since the
clock is working, it's not the power. What else could the problem be
besides the control module?

P.S. On the following website link, below where it says Related Videos, and
to the right of where it says How It Works, click on "Disassembly", and then
click on the video on the right that says "GE Electric Range/Stove/Oven
Disassembly":


http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHe...ing-JB700SN3SS

On 1/9/2016 12:26 PM, TomR wrote:
In ,
mcp6453 typed:
Our GE JB700SNSS range went dead. The circuit breaker didn't blow.
Before I could get time to pull the range out to test to make sure
the main supply was good, it started working again. Or so I thought.
The clock is working, but the top elements don't heat. Since the
clock is working, it's not the power. What else could the problem be
besides the control module?

P.S. On the following website link, below where it says Related Videos, and
to the right of where it says How It Works, click on "Disassembly", and then
click on the video on the right that says "GE Electric Range/Stove/Oven
Disassembly":


http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHe...ing-JB700SN3SS

Thanks for the suggestions. It turns out that the problem was extremely simple. For some reason, the 240 volt outlet is
mounted on the floor. When the range was pushed back into place, it partially dislodged the plug. All I had to do was
plug it back in and reroute the cord so that it hopefully will not happen again. It must have been that way for several
years. That's scary.

As far as the clock working, apparently once leg of the plug was making contact, providing 120 to the range.

Although I saved a service call on the range, my heat pump stopped working the same day. It was 4-1/2 pounds low on R22.

On 1/10/2016 2:16 PM, mcp6453 wrote:

Thanks for the suggestions. It turns out that the problem was extremely simple. For some reason, the 240 volt outlet is
mounted on the floor. When the range was pushed back into place, it partially dislodged the plug. All I had to do was
plug it back in and reroute the cord so that it hopefully will not happen again. It must have been that way for several
years. That's scary.

As far as the clock working, apparently once leg of the plug was making contact, providing 120 to the range.

Although I saved a service call on the range, my heat pump stopped working the same day. It was 4-1/2 pounds low on R22.


Thank you for the follow up report. Glad it was some thing simple.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 1/10/2016 2:16 PM, mcp6453 wrote:

my heat pump stopped working the same
day. It was 4-1/2 pounds low on R22.


That's a lot of refrigerant. Did the techs
do any checking for leaks?

What did the house call and refrigerant cost?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 1/10/2016 6:55 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 1/10/2016 2:16 PM, mcp6453 wrote:

my heat pump stopped working the same
day. It was 4-1/2 pounds low on R22.


That's a lot of refrigerant. Did the techs
do any checking for leaks?

What did the house call and refrigerant cost?

Service call $100
R22 - $50 per pound

He checked for a leak outside but didn't find one. He said that if there is one, it's probably in the evaporator coil.
The unit is 15 years old, so if it leaks down again quickly, I'm going to replace the unit instead of spending a lot of
money repairing it. We can't tell how bad the leak is because the Freon hasn't been checked in several years, as I recall.

The gas company has agreed to run gas to our home if we'll convert one or more units (heat pump, water heater, gas logs)
to natural gas. I wanted to convert the water heater to gas since it's time to replace it, but there's not a practical
way to put a low boy water heater under the house.

On 1/10/2016 8:00 PM, mcp6453 wrote:
On 1/10/2016 6:55 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
That's a lot of refrigerant. Did the techs
do any checking for leaks?

What did the house call and refrigerant cost?

Service call $100
R22 - $50 per pound

He checked for a leak outside but didn't find one. He said that if there is one, it's probably in the evaporator coil.
The unit is 15 years old, so if it leaks down again quickly, I'm going to replace the unit instead of spending a lot of
money repairing it. We can't tell how bad the leak is because the Freon hasn't been checked in several years, as I recall.

The gas company has agreed to run gas to our home if we'll convert one or more units (heat pump, water heater, gas logs)
to natural gas. I wanted to convert the water heater to gas since it's time to replace it, but there's not a practical
way to put a low boy water heater under the house.


Thank you. It is very possible you will get several
more years out of this refrigerant charge. Best
wishes. Hope it lasts a long time.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Sunday, January 10, 2016 at 9:10:25 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Thank you. It is very possible you will get several
more years out of this refrigerant charge. Best
wishes. Hope it lasts a long time.


Unlikely.

It stopped working in one day. It leaked 4/5 pounds since the last time it worked. That's a big leak, I bet he doesn't make a week.

Even if he did, a good hvac tech finds and fixes the leak, as required by the refrigerant regulations.

On 1/11/2016 1:47 PM, TimR wrote:
On Sunday, January 10, 2016 at 9:10:25 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Thank you. It is very possible you will get several
more years out of this refrigerant charge. Best
wishes. Hope it lasts a long time.


Unlikely.

It stopped working in one day. It leaked 4/5 pounds since the last time it worked. That's a big leak, I bet he doesn't make a week.

Even if he did, a good hvac tech finds and fixes the leak, as required by the refrigerant regulations.


When I took the EPA course, leak check is
only required on systems with 50 pound or
greater charge. Might have changed since
then.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Monday, January 11, 2016 at 2:00:20 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 1/11/2016 1:47 PM, TimR wrote:
On Sunday, January 10, 2016 at 9:10:25 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Thank you. It is very possible you will get several
more years out of this refrigerant charge. Best
wishes. Hope it lasts a long time.


Unlikely.

It stopped working in one day. It leaked 4/5 pounds since the last time it worked. That's a big leak, I bet he doesn't make a week.

Even if he did, a good hvac tech finds and fixes the leak, as required by the refrigerant regulations.


When I took the EPA course, leak check is
only required on systems with 50 pound or
greater charge. Might have changed since
then.

--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

You might be right. I took my test a long time ago.

On Mon, 11 Jan 2016 14:00:21 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/11/2016 1:47 PM, TimR wrote:
On Sunday, January 10, 2016 at 9:10:25 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Thank you. It is very possible you will get several
more years out of this refrigerant charge. Best
wishes. Hope it lasts a long time.


Unlikely.

It stopped working in one day. It leaked 4/5 pounds since the last time it worked. That's a big leak, I bet he doesn't make a week.

Even if he did, a good hvac tech finds and fixes the leak, as required by the refrigerant regulations.


When I took the EPA course, leak check is
only required on systems with 50 pound or
greater charge. Might have changed since
then.
Even here in Ontario Canad a leak check is required on ANY system
that is found to be low on charge - even if only a half pound system.

In ,
mcp6453 typed:
On 1/9/2016 12:26 PM, TomR wrote:
In ,
mcp6453 typed:
Our GE JB700SNSS range went dead. The circuit breaker didn't blow.
Before I could get time to pull the range out to test to make sure
the main supply was good, it started working again. Or so I thought.
The clock is working, but the top elements don't heat. Since the
clock is working, it's not the power. What else could the problem be
besides the control module?

P.S. On the following website link, below where it says Related
Videos, and to the right of where it says How It Works, click on
"Disassembly", and then click on the video on the right that says
"GE Electric Range/Stove/Oven Disassembly":

http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHe...ing-JB700SN3SS

Thanks for the suggestions. It turns out that the problem was
extremely simple. For some reason, the 240 volt outlet is mounted on
the floor. When the range was pushed back into place, it partially
dislodged the plug. All I had to do was plug it back in and reroute
the cord so that it hopefully will not happen again.

Excellent. Glad it worked out and turned out to be something simple.
Thanks for the update.

Although I saved a service call on the range, my heat pump stopped
working the same day. It was 4-1/2 pounds low on R22.

Oops.

On 1/11/2016 2:13 PM, TimR wrote:
On Monday, January 11, 2016 at 2:00:20 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
When I took the EPA course, leak check is
only required on systems with 50 pound or
greater charge. Might have changed since
then.

--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

You might be right. I took my test a long time ago.


One of us ought to check on that, see what is the
regulation at the moment.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 1/11/2016 3:22 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 11 Jan 2016 14:00:21 -0500, Stormin Mormon
When I took the EPA course, leak check is
only required on systems with 50 pound or
greater charge. Might have changed since
then.
Even here in Ontario Canad a leak check is required on ANY system
that is found to be low on charge - even if only a half pound system.

The USA still has freedom. As long as I drive under the
speed limit, signal my turns, keep a catalytic converter
in my exhaust system, obey all traffic cops, carry my
EPA certificate, pull building permits, pay all applicable
taxes, pay business and income taxes, and report every
thing to the Fed, I am free to do what they tell me.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..