My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian

On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:35:39 AM UTC-4, wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian

New info: When I check each terminal to ground, the brown/ground has 115V but the red/ground has zero.

What does that tell us?

Ian

On 9/7/2015 11:54 AM, wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:35:39 AM UTC-4, wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian

New info: When I check each terminal to ground, the brown/ground has 115V but the red/ground has zero.

What does that tell us?

Ian


Did you check the circuit breaker? One leg may be out. Trip it and
reset it.

On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:57:34 AM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 9/7/2015 11:54 AM, wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:35:39 AM UTC-4, wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian

New info: When I check each terminal to ground, the brown/ground has 115V but the red/ground has zero.

What does that tell us?

Ian


Did you check the circuit breaker? One leg may be out. Trip it and
reset it.

And if that doesn't work, see if there is 115V from red to neutral/ground
at the breaker.

wrote in message
...
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:35:39 AM UTC-4,
wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding
temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only
pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown
taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian

New info: When I check each terminal to ground, the brown/ground has 115V
but the red/ground has zero.

What does that tell us?


The first thing that comes to mind is for you to call an electrician when
you have to ask a question like that.

You are in the US and not some where else ?

For things to try, go to the circuit breaker if you have that or the fuse
panel for the house. Cut the breaker off and back on to see if one leg
somehow tripped with out tripping the other (which is very unusual). If
there are fuses, most like one is blown. Pull the fuse block out and check
each fuse with the ohm meter.

If the fuses are good, then is the stove plugged in ? If so, how many wires
are there, 3 or 4 ? Two of the wires will have 240 volts between them. If
3 wires there should be 120 volts between two of the wires and the other
(ground/neutral) wire. If 4 wires, then there will be 0 volts between the
ground and neutral wires, and 120 volts between either of those wires and
one of the other wires.

The red and what you are calling brown (which is usually black) are the two
hot wires and anything else should be green for ground and white for neutral
depending on the number of wires.

On Mon, 7 Sep 2015 08:35:28 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian

Where are you in the world where you would run a JennAire oven on DC??
Use your AC meter to measure.
As far as one leg fuse going out, that will give you zero volts, not
110, because you are measuring leg to leg. You would only get 110 leg
to neutral on one side if the other side was open.

On Mon, 7 Sep 2015 08:54:58 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:35:39 AM UTC-4, wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian

New info: When I check each terminal to ground, the brown/ground has 115V but the red/ground has zero.

What does that tell us?

Ian
Bad connection, blown fuse, or tripped un-linked breaker (against
code, unsafe, and unlikely) If you have a fused panel instead of a
breaker panel you could have a blown fuse in the panel. Otherwise,
Check for fuse in the actual range/oven. Check the manual for
location. If no bad fuses, call electrician to check connections in
panel

I have problem with you readings how do you get "DC" do you have solar
power?
If you running at 115 VAC and your oven have dual element and you took
readings
at bottom element then your top element is open or visa versa

wrote in message
...

My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding
temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only
pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown
taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian

Ovens (or other LOADS) don't "put out" 115V. They *see* whatever
voltage is impressed from the *source*.

On 9/7/2015 8:35 AM, wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding
temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only
pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

In the US (as you don't say where you are located), residential power
is delivered over a "center tapped, 220V supply". In essence, this
*looks* like two 110VAC circuits. But, if you examined the waveforms,
you'd see that they are 180 degrees out of phase.

220V appliances are powered from the two "hots"; the "neutral" (which is
the "center tap") carries no current. (Neutral is tied to EARTH,
eventually. But, a fourth "ground" conductor often brings that EARTH
directly to the appliance -- much the same as the *third* wire on a 110V
electric outlet).

110V appliances are powered from *one* of the "hots" and the neutral.
Ideally, the loads in your house are arranged so half of the 110V
loads are on one leg (hot#1) and the other half on the other leg
(hot#2).

Some appliances use 110V *and* 220V. E.g., a stove/oven/electric dryer
usually uses a lot of power so being able to operate from 220V means
each *wire* (conductor) need only supply half of the total current
(amperage; power = amps * volts). But, those appliances often have
portions that don't *need* the higher voltage: e.g., the *clock*
in your stove, the control electronics in your dryer, etc. In
this case, that *portion* of the device that only needs 110V can
use one of the hots (leg1 or leg2 -- either one!) for that need
while using *both* hots for the other, higher power requirements.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown
taking out one leg of the 240V?

Exactly. If you have fuses, then one could have blown without the
other. If you have circuit breakers, one "half" could have blown
without taking out the other "half". Circuit breakers for 220V
circuits should be ganged together -- mechanically tied -- so that
one leg tripping FORCES the other leg to trip. But, sometimes
this doesn't happen properly. Other times, someone has *cut* the
mechanical link to ALLOW one half to be switched on/off without
regard for the "other half".

Remember, any time a breaker/fuse trips, there WAS A REASON. Don't
fall for the temptation of just flipping it back on repeatedly until
it *appears* to stay on. Make sure you understand WHY it has tripped
and remove any potential safety hazzard. E.g., one "leg" may have
partially shorted to the metal case -- "ground" -- which would cause
it to blow/trip; turning the power back on hasn't fixed the problem
even if it *may* appears to have gone away (e.g., the portion of the
conductor that was nearest to the metal case may have been melted away
in that first "event"; but the problem is still waiting to reappear.)

If you're uncomfortable with "things electric", DO hire someone who
is equipped/licensed to do so!

wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian

First question, was it working OK? You said 115Vdc. is yoru meter in DC
scale or is it typo?

On 09/07/2015 10:35 AM, wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian





Not an oven problem, the feed to one line is out...

possibly a wire burned off...


check the breaker box and outlet

philo wrote:
On 09/07/2015 10:35 AM, wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty
holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only
pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've
blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian





Not an oven problem, the feed to one line is out...

possibly a wire burned off...


check the breaker box and outlet

Sounds like reasonable logical approach
to solve the problem.

wrote in message
...

On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:35:39 AM UTC-4,
wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding
temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only
pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown
taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian

New info: When I check each terminal to ground, the brown/ground has 115V
but the red/ground has zero.

This would indicate that you heating element has grounded, checking little
more will show that that wire to
terminal on the heater is open or fuse blown some ovens may have fuse link
that opens with heat similar to your
heir dryer. Unless you know electronics/electric get professional to check
it out.


What does that tell us?

Ian

[snip]

Did it ever work ok? It sounds like a pretty simply
wiring ****up.

If you have to ask, though, you should probably
get a ocal expert


--
__________________________________________________ ___
Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key

[to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 7 Sep 2015 08:35:28 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian

You need to make a drawing, on paper, with all the wires you've found
included, and all the voltages you've found between two locations
marked, maybe even in different colors if you need that to keep them
straight.

You might also want to unpplug or disconnect the oven from the wall,
from the power, and measure some resistances, with the switch on, of
course (although I don't know much about your switches and some problems
might be in a switch, for all I know.) Definitely use a different
color for ohms from what you use for AC volts.

When it's all in front of you, you should either realize you need more
measurements or you have enough to hone in on the problem.

--

Stumpy Strumpet
the bimbus
for dogcatcher

On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:35:39 AM UTC-4, wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian

My bad. Typo. I meant 115 V-AC.

I am in Canada, not that that matters much I suspect. Same as US.

Tried resetting the breaker. No difference.

Will call a Sparky and get it done right.

Thanks,

Ian

On 9/7/2015 8:16 PM, wrote:
I am in Canada, not that that matters much I suspect. Same as US.

Tried resetting the breaker. No difference.

Will call a Sparky and get it done right.

Thanks,

Ian

Just FYI, most heating and AC and
refrigeration guys do a LOT of work
with electricity, if the sparkys are
too e$pen$ive.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Mon, 07 Sep 2015 19:55:46 -0400, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 7 Sep 2015 08:35:28 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian

You need to make a drawing, on paper, with all the wires you've found
included, and all the voltages you've found between two locations
marked, maybe even in different colors if you need that to keep them
straight.

You might also want to unpplug or disconnect the oven from the wall,
from the power, and measure some resistances, with the switch on, of
course (although I don't know much about your switches and some problems
might be in a switch, for all I know.) Definitely use a different
color for ohms from what you use for AC volts.

When it's all in front of you, you should either realize you need more
measurements or you have enough to hone in on the problem.
Disconnect the range and check the power at the plug. That will tell
you if you have a problem in the power supply/house wiring. If that's
OK, then the problem, by default, is in the stove itself. L1 to L2
should be 240. L1 to ground and L2 to ground should be 120 N to ground
(if a 4 wire plug) should be zero.

On Mon, 7 Sep 2015 21:16:05 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 9/7/2015 8:16 PM, wrote:
I am in Canada, not that that matters much I suspect. Same as US.

Tried resetting the breaker. No difference.

Will call a Sparky and get it done right.

Thanks,

Ian

Just FYI, most heating and AC and
refrigeration guys do a LOT of work
with electricity, if the sparkys are
too e$pen$ive.

-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.
What model JennAir. Download the manual and look for fuses.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
On 9/7/2015 8:16 PM, wrote:
I am in Canada, not that that matters much I suspect. Same as US.

Tried resetting the breaker. No difference.

Will call a Sparky and get it done right.

Thanks,

Ian

Just FYI, most heating and AC and
refrigeration guys do a LOT of work
with electricity, if the sparkys are
too e$pen$ive.


just hire the 12 year old braniac next door.

wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:35:39 AM UTC-4, wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian

My bad. Typo. I meant 115 V-AC.

I am in Canada, not that that matters much I suspect. Same as US.

Tried resetting the breaker. No difference.

Will call a Sparky and get it done right.

Thanks,

Ian

Regardless you should pull the oven away from wall(hope it is not
built-in one. If you're not familiar with this stuff, call an
appliance tech or even a handyman(master of none, jack of all type)
will take care of it.

On 9/7/2015 5:16 PM, wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:35:39 AM UTC-4, wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

My bad. Typo. I meant 115 V-AC.

I am in Canada, not that that matters much I suspect. Same as US.

Tried resetting the breaker. No difference.

Did you *carefully* observe (sound, feel) the action of the breaker
when you reset it? I.e., are you sure that it (or half of it) didn't
trip as soon as it was reengaged? That would indicate a persistent
problem...

Will call a Sparky and get it done right.

"Hopefully"... :

On 9/7/2015 10:58 PM, taxed and spent wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
Just FYI, most heating and AC and
refrigeration guys do a LOT of work
with electricity, if the sparkys are
too e$pen$ive.


just hire the 12 year old braniac next door.


The generations do change. Now days 12 year olds
can reprogram smart phones. Don't ask em to run a
chainsaw, or build a log cabin or safely shoot a
gun.

I'm in a bit of transition generation. I have done
a few small computer things. And, I can run a chain
saw. Smart phone? Never used one. One friend gave
me a sixty second lesson, but not sure I could use
one to make a call.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

"Don Y" wrote in message
...
On 9/7/2015 5:16 PM, wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:35:39 AM UTC-4,
wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding
temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only
pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've
blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

My bad. Typo. I meant 115 V-AC.

I am in Canada, not that that matters much I suspect. Same as US.

Tried resetting the breaker. No difference.

Did you *carefully* observe (sound, feel) the action of the breaker
when you reset it? I.e., are you sure that it (or half of it) didn't
trip as soon as it was reengaged? That would indicate a persistent
problem...

Will call a Sparky and get it done right.

"Hopefully"... :


I know a tile guy and a plumber who works on gas dryers, each who could
probably handle it well.

On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 8:16:32 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:35:39 AM UTC-4, wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian

My bad. Typo. I meant 115 V-AC.

I am in Canada, not that that matters much I suspect. Same as US.

Tried resetting the breaker. No difference.

Will call a Sparky and get it done right.

Thanks,

Ian

just to make sure we are all on the "same page"

the "breaker" is actually 2 breakers with their handles tied together and you switched them both together off and on...

correct?

Mark

On Tuesday, September 8, 2015 at 2:07:11 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 8:16:32 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:35:39 AM UTC-4, wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian

My bad. Typo. I meant 115 V-AC.

I am in Canada, not that that matters much I suspect. Same as US.

Tried resetting the breaker. No difference.

Will call a Sparky and get it done right.

Thanks,

Ian

just to make sure we are all on the "same page"

the "breaker" is actually 2 breakers with their handles tied together and you switched them both together off and on...

correct?

Mark

the "breaker" is a double breaker with a single throw switch. I believe it would be a 2 pole single throw breaker. It's a SCHNEIDER ELECTRIC - SQUARE D
Double Pole 40 Amp QO Plug-On Circuit Breaker.

Simple enough.

On Tue, 8 Sep 2015 12:06:42 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 8, 2015 at 2:07:11 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 8:16:32 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:35:39 AM UTC-4, wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian

My bad. Typo. I meant 115 V-AC.

I am in Canada, not that that matters much I suspect. Same as US.

Tried resetting the breaker. No difference.

Will call a Sparky and get it done right.

Thanks,

Ian

just to make sure we are all on the "same page"

the "breaker" is actually 2 breakers with their handles tied together and you switched them both together off and on...

correct?

Mark

the "breaker" is a double breaker with a single throw switch. I believe it would be a 2 pole single throw breaker. It's a SCHNEIDER ELECTRIC - SQUARE D
Double Pole 40 Amp QO Plug-On Circuit Breaker.

Simple enough.

.... if we only knew it is a Square D panel box. How do you know that?

On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:35:39 AM UTC-4, wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian

The Parts Diagram http://www.partselect.ca/PS135497-Ma...rm=8028P003-60 shows a "Breaker Box" part # 8028P003-60. Is this breaker built into the over assembly somewhere? It's a built in unit, so not a simple case of pulling it out and looking at the back.

If this is an integral breaker box, I should be able to reset the breaker on the oven.

Ian

On Tuesday, September 8, 2015 at 2:06:46 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tuesday, September 8, 2015 at 2:07:11 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 8:16:32 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:35:39 AM UTC-4, wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian

My bad. Typo. I meant 115 V-AC.

I am in Canada, not that that matters much I suspect. Same as US.

Tried resetting the breaker. No difference.

Will call a Sparky and get it done right.

Thanks,

Ian

just to make sure we are all on the "same page"

the "breaker" is actually 2 breakers with their handles tied together and you switched them both together off and on...

correct?

Mark

the "breaker" is a double breaker with a single throw switch. I believe it would be a 2 pole single throw breaker. It's a SCHNEIDER ELECTRIC - SQUARE D
Double Pole 40 Amp QO Plug-On Circuit Breaker.

Simple enough.

That type of breaker must be firmly flipped into the off position to make sure both contacts reset. You may have to flip it on and off a few times making sure push the lever hard enough into the off position until you hear it click. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Breaker Monster

On Tuesday, September 8, 2015 at 3:16:01 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:35:39 AM UTC-4, wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian

The Parts Diagram http://www.partselect.ca/PS135497-Ma...rm=8028P003-60 shows a "Breaker Box" part # 8028P003-60. Is this breaker built into the over assembly somewhere? It's a built in unit, so not a simple case of pulling it out and looking at the back.

If this is an integral breaker box, I should be able to reset the breaker on the oven.

Ian

Time to back up. In the beginning you said you were measuring 115V
from one leg to ground and nothing on the other leg to ground. I
think we all took this to mean that you were measuring at the actual
cable where it connects to the oven. If so, then any breaker in the
oven itself is irrelevant. If you're not measuring there, then where
are you measuring? If you're measuring at some internal point inside
the oven, then it's not clear what you're really measuring to me.

Obvious places to measure are at the breaker in the circuit panel
and at the oven where it connects to the cable. You should have
115V from either leg to ground or neutral and 230V between legs.

On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:35:39 AM UTC-4, wrote:
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.

I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?

Thanks,

Ian


I am measuring at the wires that connect to the element.

I have 115V from one wire to ground. And zero from other wire to ground.

I suppose an easy check would be to measure same at broiler element. If same result, probably in the service to the over and need to deal with breaker or wiring.

On 9/9/2015 1:43 PM, wrote:

I am measuring at the wires that connect to the element.

I have 115V from one wire to ground. And zero from other wire to ground.

You really need to look at a wiring diagram of the stove to understand
what you *should* be seeing at a particular point in the circuit
OTHER THAN the line input!

You could have a stove that uses 110V elements and powers half of
them from *one* "leg" (of the 220V line) with the other half of
them powered off the other leg.

Or, 220V elements powered by the two legs (in which case, you'd
NEVER see "zero" on either connector!).

Or, a hybrid approach that puts 110V (from one leg or the other)
on the element for "low" heat and 220V (from the *other* leg
in lieu of ground) for "high" heat.

The fact that you are probing the connections while it is live
(and the element SHOULD be hot!) is disturbing. I don't think
the Darwin Awards will be revealed for many months, still...

Unplug the stove. Remove the suspected element(s). Check
with an *ohmmeter* to see if there's an "open" or they have
developed a high resistance.

I suppose an easy check would be to measure same at broiler element. If same
result, probably in the service to the over and need to deal with breaker or
wiring.