I have two power strips connected in serial. It is wall-strip A-strip B.

I have two Huawei cell phones, different models. When I plug phone A to
strip B, the phone can charge. However, if I plug phone B to strip B,
after overnight, the battery capacity is still zero (zero to start with).

If I plug phone A or B to strip A, it can charge.

In conclusion:

strip B can charge only phone A but not phone B.
strip A can charge both phones.

Any explanation to this mystery? Thanks.

yyy378 wrote:
I have two power strips connected in serial. It is wall-strip
A-strip B.
I have two Huawei cell phones, different models. When I plug phone A
to strip B, the phone can charge. However, if I plug phone B to strip
B, after overnight, the battery capacity is still zero (zero to start
with).
If I plug phone A or B to strip A, it can charge.

In conclusion:

strip B can charge only phone A but not phone B.
strip A can charge both phones.

Any explanation to this mystery? Thanks.

Are the strips identical ? Sounds like the plug prongs on charger b aren't
making contact in the b strip .

--
Snag

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 25 Jul 2015 09:36:13 +0630, yyy378
wrote:

I have two power strips connected in serial. It is wall-strip A-strip B.

I have two Huawei cell phones, different models. When I plug phone A to
strip B, the phone can charge. However, if I plug phone B to strip B,
after overnight, the battery capacity is still zero (zero to start with).

If I plug phone A or B to strip A, it can charge.

In conclusion:

strip B can charge only phone A but not phone B.
strip A can charge both phones.

Any explanation to this mystery? Thanks.

Phone B is bad, or
Phone B charger is bad.

Duh.

On 25/07/2015 10:54, Terry Coombs wrote:
yyy378 wrote:
I have two power strips connected in serial. It is wall-strip
A-strip B.
I have two Huawei cell phones, different models. When I plug phone A
to strip B, the phone can charge. However, if I plug phone B to strip
B, after overnight, the battery capacity is still zero (zero to start
with).
If I plug phone A or B to strip A, it can charge.

In conclusion:

strip B can charge only phone A but not phone B.
strip A can charge both phones.

Any explanation to this mystery? Thanks.

Are the strips identical ? Sounds like the plug prongs on charger b aren't
making contact in the b strip .


Sorry. I forgot to mention that I used the same charger for both phones
which are of the same brand but different model number.

On 25/07/2015 11:39, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 25 Jul 2015 09:36:13 +0630, yyy378
wrote:

I have two power strips connected in serial. It is wall-strip A-strip B.

I have two Huawei cell phones, different models. When I plug phone A to
strip B, the phone can charge. However, if I plug phone B to strip B,
after overnight, the battery capacity is still zero (zero to start with).

If I plug phone A or B to strip A, it can charge.

In conclusion:

strip B can charge only phone A but not phone B.
strip A can charge both phones.

Any explanation to this mystery? Thanks.

Phone B is bad, or
Phone B charger is bad.

Duh.


I use the same charger for both phones whether on strip A or B.

On Saturday, July 25, 2015 at 2:23:20 AM UTC-4, yyy378 wrote:
On 25/07/2015 11:39, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 25 Jul 2015 09:36:13 +0630, yyy378
wrote:

I have two power strips connected in serial. It is wall-strip A-strip B.

I have two Huawei cell phones, different models. When I plug phone A to
strip B, the phone can charge. However, if I plug phone B to strip B,
after overnight, the battery capacity is still zero (zero to start with).

If I plug phone A or B to strip A, it can charge.

In conclusion:

strip B can charge only phone A but not phone B.
strip A can charge both phones.

Any explanation to this mystery? Thanks.

Phone B is bad, or
Phone B charger is bad.

Duh.


I use the same charger for both phones whether on strip A or B.

Typically when charging phones have an indicator light or icon
that shows it's charging. What does that show? I assume you've
verified that other loads will work when plugged into B? Tried
different receptacle spots on B?

On 25/07/2015 13:45, trader_4 wrote:
On Saturday, July 25, 2015 at 2:23:20 AM UTC-4, yyy378 wrote:
On 25/07/2015 11:39, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 25 Jul 2015 09:36:13 +0630, yyy378
wrote:

I have two power strips connected in serial. It is wall-strip A-strip B.

I have two Huawei cell phones, different models. When I plug phone A to
strip B, the phone can charge. However, if I plug phone B to strip B,
after overnight, the battery capacity is still zero (zero to start with).

If I plug phone A or B to strip A, it can charge.

In conclusion:

strip B can charge only phone A but not phone B.
strip A can charge both phones.

Any explanation to this mystery? Thanks.

Phone B is bad, or
Phone B charger is bad.

Duh.


I use the same charger for both phones whether on strip A or B.

Typically when charging phones have an indicator light or icon
that shows it's charging. What does that show? I assume you've
verified that other loads will work when plugged into B? Tried
different receptacle spots on B?

The cell phone shows a battery with a green bar, a typical sign of
charging. However, after charging overnight, the battery still shows 0%
and when I unplug the phone, it quickly goes dead.

When I use the same charger on the same strip B, same spot, to charge
another phone, the percentage does go up, meaning it is actually charging.

On Sat, 25 Jul 2015 19:11:06 +0630, yyy378 wrote:



How about the USB cable connecting the charger to the phone? Is this
integral with the charger or are you switching it with the phone?

Thane

On 07/24/2015 10:06 PM, yyy378 wrote:
I have two power strips connected in serial. It is wall-strip A-strip B.

I have two Huawei cell phones, different models. When I plug phone A to strip B, the phone can charge. However, if I plug phone B to strip B, after overnight, the battery capacity is still zero (zero to start with).

If I plug phone A or B to strip A, it can charge.

In conclusion:

strip B can charge only phone A but not phone B.
strip A can charge both phones.

Any explanation to this mystery? Thanks.

Let me guess, you purchased power strip B at McLowesDepotBigBoxMartWarehouseSuperstore?

If you want a power strip with high-quality receptacles, consider a Tripp Lite Isobar.

"yyy378" wrote in message

stuff snipped

The cell phone shows a battery with a green bar, a typical sign of
charging. However, after charging overnight, the battery still shows 0%
and when I unplug the phone, it quickly goes dead.

When I use the same charger on the same strip B, same spot, to charge
another phone, the percentage does go up, meaning it is actually charging.

Sounds like a dead battery in phone B. The indicators are often based on
voltage and batteries can show good voltage under very light loads (like a
metering circuit) but not have any real power to deliver when put under a
real load.

--
Bobby G.

"yyy378" wrote in message
...
I have two power strips connected in serial. It is wall-strip A-strip B.

I have two Huawei cell phones, different models. When I plug phone A to
strip B, the phone can charge. However, if I plug phone B to strip B,
after overnight, the battery capacity is still zero (zero to start with).

If I plug phone A or B to strip A, it can charge.

In conclusion:

strip B can charge only phone A but not phone B.
strip A can charge both phones.

Any explanation to this mystery? Thanks.

weird. What happens if you change the position of the strips to:

wallstrip BE Strip A?

On 25/07/2015 19:16, Thane wrote:
On Sat, 25 Jul 2015 19:11:06 +0630, yyy378 wrote:



How about the USB cable connecting the charger to the phone? Is this
integral with the charger or are you switching it with the phone?

Thane

Same charger, same USB cable.

On 25/07/2015 19:46, Robert Green wrote:
"yyy378" wrote in message

stuff snipped

The cell phone shows a battery with a green bar, a typical sign of
charging. However, after charging overnight, the battery still shows 0%
and when I unplug the phone, it quickly goes dead.

When I use the same charger on the same strip B, same spot, to charge
another phone, the percentage does go up, meaning it is actually charging.

Sounds like a dead battery in phone B. The indicators are often based on
voltage and batteries can show good voltage under very light loads (like a
metering circuit) but not have any real power to deliver when put under a
real load.

--
Bobby G.


I thought so too until I plugged the charger to strip A and it started
to charge the phone B which I had thought having a dead battery.

On 25/07/2015 19:29, jimmy wrote:
[snipped]

Let me guess, you purchased power strip B at
McLowesDepotBigBoxMartWarehouseSuperstore?

If you want a power strip with high-quality receptacles, consider a
Tripp Lite Isobar.

Probably even worse than that. A power strip in the U.S. lasts many
years. Here, the typical life time of a power strip is no more than one
year.

But that still doesn't answer why the same charger on the same power
strip can charge one phone but not the other phone of the same brand but
different model.

On 25/07/2015 19:54, taxed and spent wrote:
"yyy378" wrote in message
...
I have two power strips connected in serial. It is wall-strip A-strip B.

I have two Huawei cell phones, different models. When I plug phone A to
strip B, the phone can charge. However, if I plug phone B to strip B,
after overnight, the battery capacity is still zero (zero to start with).

If I plug phone A or B to strip A, it can charge.

In conclusion:

strip B can charge only phone A but not phone B.
strip A can charge both phones.

Any explanation to this mystery? Thanks.

weird. What happens if you change the position of the strips to:

wallstrip BE Strip A?


Oh! Good thinking. I never thought of that. Let me try it tonight.

On Saturday, July 25, 2015 at 9:29:16 AM UTC-4, Robert Green wrote:
"yyy378" wrote in message

stuff snipped

The cell phone shows a battery with a green bar, a typical sign of
charging. However, after charging overnight, the battery still shows 0%
and when I unplug the phone, it quickly goes dead.

When I use the same charger on the same strip B, same spot, to charge
another phone, the percentage does go up, meaning it is actually charging.

Sounds like a dead battery in phone B. The indicators are often based on
voltage and batteries can show good voltage under very light loads (like a
metering circuit) but not have any real power to deliver when put under a
real load.

--
Bobby G.

If it was a bad battery then it would not charge when plugged into
strip A. Good grief.

On 7/25/2015 9:16 AM, Robert Green wrote:

When I use the same charger on the same strip B, same spot, to charge
another phone, the percentage does go up, meaning it is actually charging.

Sounds like a dead battery in phone B. The indicators are often based on
voltage and batteries can show good voltage under very light loads (like a
metering circuit) but not have any real power to deliver when put under a
real load.

--
Bobby G.



But it works plugged into the other strip.

On 07/25/2015 08:36 AM, yyy378 wrote:


On 25/07/2015 19:29, jimmy wrote:
[snipped]

Let me guess, you purchased power strip B at
McLowesDepotBigBoxMartWarehouseSuperstore?

If you want a power strip with high-quality receptacles, consider a
Tripp Lite Isobar.

Probably even worse than that. A power strip in the U.S. lasts many years. Here, the typical life time of a power strip is no more than one year.

But that still doesn't answer why the same charger on the same power strip can charge one phone but not the other phone of the same brand but different model.

To solve your little mystery, a technician would need to measure the output voltage of the power supply while the phone is plugged in but not charging.

"yyy378" wrote in message
...


On 25/07/2015 19:54, taxed and spent wrote:
"yyy378" wrote in message
...
I have two power strips connected in serial. It is wall-strip A-strip
B.

I have two Huawei cell phones, different models. When I plug phone A to
strip B, the phone can charge. However, if I plug phone B to strip B,
after overnight, the battery capacity is still zero (zero to start
with).

If I plug phone A or B to strip A, it can charge.

In conclusion:

strip B can charge only phone A but not phone B.
strip A can charge both phones.

Any explanation to this mystery? Thanks.

weird. What happens if you change the position of the strips to:

wallstrip BE Strip A?


Oh! Good thinking. I never thought of that. Let me try it tonight.

I can't wait that long!

On 7/25/2015 8:41 AM, yyy378 wrote:


Typically when charging phones have an indicator light or icon
that shows it's charging. What does that show? I assume you've
verified that other loads will work when plugged into B? Tried
different receptacle spots on B?

The cell phone shows a battery with a green bar, a typical sign of
charging. However, after charging overnight, the battery still shows 0%
and when I unplug the phone, it quickly goes dead.

When I use the same charger on the same strip B, same spot, to charge
another phone, the percentage does go up, meaning it is actually charging.

Green bar might mean "some thing plugged into
the charging socket".

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

"yyy378" wrote in message
...

On 25/07/2015 19:46, Robert Green wrote:
"yyy378" wrote in message

stuff snipped

The cell phone shows a battery with a green bar, a typical sign of
charging. However, after charging overnight, the battery still shows 0%
and when I unplug the phone, it quickly goes dead.

When I use the same charger on the same strip B, same spot, to charge
another phone, the percentage does go up, meaning it is actually
charging.

Sounds like a dead battery in phone B. The indicators are often based
on
voltage and batteries can show good voltage under very light loads (like
a
metering circuit) but not have any real power to deliver when put under
a
real load.

--
Bobby G.


I thought so too until I plugged the charger to strip A and it started
to charge the phone B which I had thought having a dead battery.

Did it fully charge that battery, i.e. did it stay on for long after it was
charged in strip A? Are you sure you're getting full power out of strip B?
Did you measure it with a voltmeter?

Plugging in an unpowered charger into a device like a cell phone can give
some squirrely results, at least based on what happens when the power fails
in my house when the phone, laptop and a bunch of other gear is being
charged.

One last question - are the plug blades on the charger polarized? I can't
remember what allegedly unpolarized device I had that would not work
correctly if it was plugged in upside-down (relatively speaking).

Other than that, I'm officially out of ideas. Sorry I couldn't help. I
bought a USB charge monitor (and lots of adapters) so I could monitor the
current flow into the device being charged. Helpful in situations like this
and only cost $6. To diagnose this problem correctly I'd use those along
with a DVM to measure the voltage at strip B. But remote diagnostics on a
text-based system where you can't even draw a sketch easily - yes, I give
up. (-:

I would recommend getting another power strip and seeing if it exhibits the
same characteristics as the one you have now.

--
Bobby G.

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...
On 7/25/2015 9:16 AM, Robert Green wrote:

When I use the same charger on the same strip B, same spot, to charge
another phone, the percentage does go up, meaning it is actually
charging.

Sounds like a dead battery in phone B. The indicators are often based
on
voltage and batteries can show good voltage under very light loads (like
a
metering circuit) but not have any real power to deliver when put under
a
real load.

--
Bobby G.



But it works plugged into the other strip.

I based my comment just on what he described in this last message but
willing admit I could have it 100% wrong.

When I use the same charger on the same strip B, same spot, to charge
another phone, the percentage does go up, meaning it is actually charging.

That's why I feel it's phone specific and most likely the battery but in
reading around the net it could also be the charging connector's hosed or
intermittent. It's becoming clear that they should have stopped at the
mini-USB connector because the micro USB connector appears to be not very
robust. The mini connector had the advantage of having a shape that made it
difficult to try to plug in upside-down. Even the full-sized USB connector
is deficient (IMHO) in that regard.

Just too difficult to figure out remotely so I'll bow out. I hope someone
more tenacious than I am figures it out and posts back here.

--
Bobby G.

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 25 Jul 2015 12:40:47 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"yyy378" wrote in message
...

On 25/07/2015 19:46, Robert Green wrote:
"yyy378" wrote in message

stuff snipped

The cell phone shows a battery with a green bar, a typical sign of
charging. However, after charging overnight, the battery still shows 0%
and when I unplug the phone, it quickly goes dead.

When I use the same charger on the same strip B, same spot, to charge
another phone, the percentage does go up, meaning it is actually
charging.

Sounds like a dead battery in phone B. The indicators are often based
on
voltage and batteries can show good voltage under very light loads (like
a
metering circuit) but not have any real power to deliver when put under
a
real load.

--
Bobby G.


I thought so too until I plugged the charger to strip A and it started
to charge the phone B which I had thought having a dead battery.

Did it fully charge that battery, i.e. did it stay on for long after it was
charged in strip A? Are you sure you're getting full power out of strip B?
Did you measure it with a voltmeter?

Plugging in an unpowered charger into a device like a cell phone can give
some squirrely results, at least based on what happens when the power fails
in my house when the phone, laptop and a bunch of other gear is being
charged.

One last question - are the plug blades on the charger polarized? I can't
remember what allegedly unpolarized device I had that would not work
correctly if it was plugged in upside-down (relatively speaking).

Other than that, I'm officially out of ideas. Sorry I couldn't help. I
bought a USB charge monitor (and lots of adapters) so I could monitor the
current flow into the device being charged. Helpful in situations like this
and only cost $6. To diagnose this problem correctly I'd use those along
with a DVM to measure the voltage at strip B. But remote diagnostics on a
text-based system where you can't even draw a sketch easily - yes, I give
up. (-:

I would recommend getting another power strip and seeing if it exhibits the
same characteristics as the one you have now.

Or if you're really dedicated to knowing the answer, and I gather that
is the point of the thread, reversing strips a and b can be done right
now.

On Sat, 25 Jul 2015 07:31:27 -0700, "taxed and spent"
wrote:


"yyy378" wrote in message
...


On 25/07/2015 19:54, taxed and spent wrote:
"yyy378" wrote in message
...
I have two power strips connected in serial. It is wall-strip A-strip
B.

I have two Huawei cell phones, different models. When I plug phone A to
strip B, the phone can charge. However, if I plug phone B to strip B,
after overnight, the battery capacity is still zero (zero to start
with).

If I plug phone A or B to strip A, it can charge.

In conclusion:

strip B can charge only phone A but not phone B.
strip A can charge both phones.

Any explanation to this mystery? Thanks.

weird. What happens if you change the position of the strips to:

wallstrip BE Strip A?


Oh! Good thinking. I never thought of that. Let me try it tonight.

I can't wait that long!


Patients, Grasshopper.

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 25 Jul 2015 07:31:27 -0700, "taxed and
spent" wrote:


"yyy378" wrote in message
...


On 25/07/2015 19:54, taxed and spent wrote:
"yyy378" wrote in message
...
I have two power strips connected in serial. It is wall-strip A-strip
B.

I have two Huawei cell phones, different models. When I plug phone A to
strip B, the phone can charge. However, if I plug phone B to strip B,
after overnight, the battery capacity is still zero (zero to start
with).

If I plug phone A or B to strip A, it can charge.

In conclusion:

strip B can charge only phone A but not phone B.
strip A can charge both phones.

Any explanation to this mystery? Thanks.

weird. What happens if you change the position of the strips to:

wallstrip BE Strip A?


Oh! Good thinking. I never thought of that. Let me try it tonight.

I can't wait that long!

When it's night there, it's day here. I don't know if that helps you
or not.

There are a lot of strange things that happen in this world.

I have a DVDR with a digital tuner that I use in place of buying a
digital TV. Connected to it is a digital to analog converter (I forget
the short name for that, something-modulator) and connected to that is
the television.

And when I turn the ceiling light on in the bedroom with the switch that
is 3 feet away, there is a pause in the sound. It's silent for a second
or so. But the picture isn't affected. There isn't even a blink.

And if I turn the light on in the stairway, which is 20 feet away, I get
the same effect. If I turn either light off, I sometimes get the same
effect and other times, maybe not.

If it do it several times in a row, after the first, second, or maybe
the third time, it stops happening.

When I last asked about this on sci.electronics.repair and maybe here,
no one had any good ideas. IIRC the most common suggestion was that I
was wrong and it wasn't happpening.

But here it is 3 years later, and I don't notice it as often I think
because I'm used to it, but it happened yesterday, while I was 20 feet
away (normally I'm not paying attention when I'm that far away, and I
wasn't but I noticed anyhow.)

A lot of strange things, and little things that I can see no reason God
would do, since they don't promote anything he wants, not even belief in
him.

(For a non-strange but still quite amazing thing, see my next thread
about elephants and landmines.)

"micky" wrote in message

stuff snipped

And when I turn the ceiling light on in the bedroom with the switch that
is 3 feet away, there is a pause in the sound. It's silent for a second
or so. But the picture isn't affected. There isn't even a blink.

And if I turn the light on in the stairway, which is 20 feet away, I get
the same effect. If I turn either light off, I sometimes get the same
effect and other times, maybe not.

If it do it several times in a row, after the first, second, or maybe
the third time, it stops happening.

When I last asked about this on sci.electronics.repair and maybe here,
no one had any good ideas. IIRC the most common suggestion was that I
was wrong and it wasn't happpening.

But here it is 3 years later, and I don't notice it as often I think
because I'm used to it, but it happened yesterday, while I was 20 feet
away (normally I'm not paying attention when I'm that far away, and I
wasn't but I noticed anyhow.)

A lot of strange things, and little things that I can see no reason God
would do, since they don't promote anything he wants, not even belief in
him.

Could be a noise spike that the unit picks up and reacts to, perhaps
tripping an audio limiting circuit temporarily so that you don't hear a
gigantic pop.

Does the unit have a remote? Does the behavior still occur when you put
black tape over the IR "eye"? Are these LED, CFL or incandescent lights?

--
Bobby G.

On 7/25/2015 2:06 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

Oh! Good thinking. I never thought of that. Let me try it tonight.

I can't wait that long!


Patients, Grasshopper.


Doctors have patients.

Grasshoppers have patience.

I'll explain it, much later.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Saturday, July 25, 2015 at 9:29:16 AM UTC-4, Robert Green wrote:
"yyy378" wrote in message

stuff snipped

The cell phone shows a battery with a green bar, a typical sign of
charging. However, after charging overnight, the battery still shows
0%
and when I unplug the phone, it quickly goes dead.

When I use the same charger on the same strip B, same spot, to charge
another phone, the percentage does go up, meaning it is actually
charging.

Sounds like a dead battery in phone B. The indicators are often based
on
voltage and batteries can show good voltage under very light loads (like
a
metering circuit) but not have any real power to deliver when put under
a
real load.

--
Bobby G.

If it was a bad battery then it would not charge when plugged into
strip A. Good grief.

Gee, Charlie Brown, sorry I took a WAG but it was labeled as such when I
said: "Sounds like . . . " That was based on what he said in that message (I
confess I joined the thread late) and experience with bad batteries.

We can't be sure that it's charging. He said "the percentage does go up"
which is an indicator reading, not necessarily telling us anything about the
actual battery state.

More curious is that he's clearly not had enough time for the battery, after
being charged, to completely discharge, so I am not sure the testing
procedures are telling us anything valid. Does the phone actually charge up
and take a full charge on the good strip? What's the voltage coming out of
the charger on either strip and what's the voltage going into the charger?

I'm troubled by the inconsistency of the problem description by the OP, or
so it seems to me (posted by the OP at different times:

But that still doesn't answer why the same charger on the same power
strip can charge one phone but not the other phone of the same brand but
different model.

I have two Huawei cell phones, different models. When I plug phone A to
strip B, the phone can charge. However, if I plug phone B to strip B,
after overnight, the battery capacity is still zero (zero to start with).

So I bow out recalling that unfortunately there are people in delight in
wasting the time of people who like to help people. Munged address, numbers
and not a name, conflict descriptions. YYY may be a very nice person but
the endless wave of trolls infesting AHR have made me a lot more suspicious
than I used to be.

A possible explanation where a switched power supply works on a downstream
powerstrip but not an upstream one is that some sort of noise is interfering
with the PS's output and the downstream unit filtered it out.

--
Bobby G.

"micky" wrote in message

I would recommend getting another power strip and seeing if it exhibits
the
same characteristics as the one you have now.

Or if you're really dedicated to knowing the answer, and I gather that
is the point of the thread, reversing strips a and b can be done right
now.

Even quicker. I've found that power strips, particularly ones with filter
circuits, can interact with each other. I've had some that block X-10
signals and it doesn't matter if A goes to B or B goes to A.

As I said to Trader, I am bowing out. Too many red flags and not enough
interest, I guess. Without the proper tools on the OP's end like . . .

https://www.adafruit.com/products/1852 (USB Charger Doctor - recommended to
me by someone here and INCREDIBLY useful for such situation. It tells you
what voltage and amperage is actually reaching the charger. It's only $7.50
and no one who charges anything by USB should be without it.)

.. . . there's going to be a lot of tail-chasing for little long-term or
useful edification for me, anyway, because if I had such a problem I'd put
the Charger Doctor on the case (no financial interest - just a very happy
customer who saw similar items selling for $75.)

--
Bobby G.

On Sat, 25 Jul 2015 17:05:14 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 7/25/2015 2:06 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

Oh! Good thinking. I never thought of that. Let me try it tonight.

I can't wait that long!


Patients, Grasshopper.


Doctors have patients.

Damn spell check. There needs to be a context check.

Grasshoppers have patience.

I'll explain it, much later.

I can't wait that long!

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 25 Jul 2015 17:03:12 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"micky" wrote in message

stuff snipped

And when I turn the ceiling light on in the bedroom with the switch that
is 3 feet away, there is a pause in the sound. It's silent for a second
or so. But the picture isn't affected. There isn't even a blink.

And if I turn the light on in the stairway, which is 20 feet away, I get
the same effect. If I turn either light off, I sometimes get the same
effect and other times, maybe not.

If it do it several times in a row, after the first, second, or maybe
the third time, it stops happening.

When I last asked about this on sci.electronics.repair and maybe here,
no one had any good ideas. IIRC the most common suggestion was that I
was wrong and it wasn't happpening.

But here it is 3 years later, and I don't notice it as often I think
because I'm used to it, but it happened yesterday, while I was 20 feet
away (normally I'm not paying attention when I'm that far away, and I
wasn't but I noticed anyhow.)

A lot of strange things, and little things that I can see no reason God
would do, since they don't promote anything he wants, not even belief in
him.

Could be a noise spike that the unit picks up and reacts to, perhaps
tripping an audio limiting circuit temporarily so that you don't hear a
gigantic pop.

Does the unit have a remote? Does the behavior still occur when you put
black tape over the IR "eye"? Are these LED, CFL or incandescent lights?

Yes remote but never tried tape. Using the actual remote never causes
a loss of sound. Why would the light from the fixture do that, even if
it includes some IR? And what about the light from the stairwell (and
the upstairs hall on the same switch). I don't t hink either of those
lights can reach the IR eye.


They used to be incandescent and now they are CFL. Same thing either
way. Until yesterday I had 60 or 75W equivalents in the ceiling
fixture. Isn't that 15 or 19 watts? times 3. It wasn't enough to
read with so yesterday I put in 100w eqivalent, 25 watts times 3.


I think the spark from the on off switch, a silent switch with no or
almost no detent, is causing radiation that does soemthing.


If I remember, I'll do some more tests.

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 25 Jul 2015 17:18:04 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"micky" wrote in message

I would recommend getting another power strip and seeing if it exhibits
the
same characteristics as the one you have now.

Or if you're really dedicated to knowing the answer, and I gather that
is the point of the thread, reversing strips a and b can be done right
now.

Even quicker. I've found that power strips, particularly ones with filter
circuits, can interact with each other. I've had some that block X-10
signals and it doesn't matter if A goes to B or B goes to A.

As I said to Trader, I am bowing out. Too many red flags and not enough
interest, I guess. Without the proper tools on the OP's end like . . .

https://www.adafruit.com/products/1852 (USB Charger Doctor - recommended to
me by someone here and INCREDIBLY useful for such situation. It tells you

I love gadgets like this, but how often do such situations really occur?
Even in this case, I assume the OP is only academically curious, and
that his practical problem is solved by using strip A, and that he knows
this.

what voltage and amperage is actually reaching the charger. It's only $7.50
and no one who charges anything by USB should be without it.)

I want you to convince me to buy this, but then I see

plus xxx for shipping. SHIPPING (CALCULATED IN CHECKOUT), I hate
that., Sure enough, they want my name, email, address, and PHONE
before they'll tell me the shipping cost.

And then I see these and wonder if I shoudl buy these too!

USB Micro-B Breakout Board
Simple but effective - this breakout board has a USB Micro-B connector,
with all 5 pins broken out. ...
$1.50

USB Cable with Switch
Add a power switch to any USB-powered project simply by plugging this
between the USB power port and ...
$2.95 Is unplugging just as good as using this switch?

. . . there's going to be a lot of tail-chasing for little long-term or
useful edification for me, anyway, because if I had such a problem I'd put
the Charger Doctor on the case (no financial interest - just a very happy
customer who saw similar items selling for $75.)

Wow. Okay the price is great, but do you really use it?

On Saturday, July 25, 2015 at 7:05:17 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 25 Jul 2015 17:18:04 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"micky" wrote in message

I would recommend getting another power strip and seeing if it exhibits
the
same characteristics as the one you have now.

Or if you're really dedicated to knowing the answer, and I gather that
is the point of the thread, reversing strips a and b can be done right
now.

Even quicker. I've found that power strips, particularly ones with filter
circuits, can interact with each other. I've had some that block X-10
signals and it doesn't matter if A goes to B or B goes to A.

As I said to Trader, I am bowing out. Too many red flags and not enough
interest, I guess. Without the proper tools on the OP's end like . . .

https://www.adafruit.com/products/1852 (USB Charger Doctor - recommended to
me by someone here and INCREDIBLY useful for such situation. It tells you

I love gadgets like this, but how often do such situations really occur?
Even in this case, I assume the OP is only academically curious, and
that his practical problem is solved by using strip A, and that he knows
this.

what voltage and amperage is actually reaching the charger. It's only $7.50
and no one who charges anything by USB should be without it.)

I want you to convince me to buy this, but then I see

plus xxx for shipping. SHIPPING (CALCULATED IN CHECKOUT), I hate
that., Sure enough, they want my name, email, address, and PHONE
before they'll tell me the shipping cost.

And then I see these and wonder if I shoudl buy these too!

USB Micro-B Breakout Board
Simple but effective - this breakout board has a USB Micro-B connector,
with all 5 pins broken out. ...
$1.50

USB Cable with Switch
Add a power switch to any USB-powered project simply by plugging this
between the USB power port and ...
$2.95 Is unplugging just as good as using this switch?

. . . there's going to be a lot of tail-chasing for little long-term or
useful edification for me, anyway, because if I had such a problem I'd put
the Charger Doctor on the case (no financial interest - just a very happy
customer who saw similar items selling for $75.)

Wow. Okay the price is great, but do you really use it?

Amazon sells them too and if you're a Prime member, there's free two day shipping on some of them. ^_^

http://preview.tinyurl.com/o435blt

[8~{} Uncle USB Monster

"micky" wrote in message

stuff snipped

https://www.adafruit.com/products/1852 (USB Charger Doctor - recommended
to
me by someone here and INCREDIBLY useful for such situation. It tells
you

I love gadgets like this, but how often do such situations really occur?
Even in this case, I assume the OP is only academically curious, and
that his practical problem is solved by using strip A, and that he knows
this.

what voltage and amperage is actually reaching the charger. It's only
$7.50
and no one who charges anything by USB should be without it.)

I want you to convince me to buy this, but then I see

plus xxx for shipping. SHIPPING (CALCULATED IN CHECKOUT), I hate
that., Sure enough, they want my name, email, address, and PHONE
before they'll tell me the shipping cost.

And then I see these and wonder if I shoudl buy these too!

USB Micro-B Breakout Board
Simple but effective - this breakout board has a USB Micro-B connector,
with all 5 pins broken out. ...
$1.50

USB Cable with Switch
Add a power switch to any USB-powered project simply by plugging this
between the USB power port and ...
$2.95 Is unplugging just as good as using this switch?

Perhaps but it means less wear on the connectors which aren't as robust as
they should be. Not something I would buy - well, maybe. I avoid
over-taxing frequently used USB connectors by using short extension cords.
This because I once plugged in a USB cable into an OTA DVR and push the USB
jack right into the chassis. Not well anchored, as you can imagine. Effing
up a USB port on a table, phone or laptop can be a real PITA and expensive
to repair.

. . . there's going to be a lot of tail-chasing for little long-term or
useful edification for me, anyway, because if I had such a problem I'd
put
the Charger Doctor on the case (no financial interest - just a very happy
customer who saw similar items selling for $75.)

Wow. Okay the price is great, but do you really use it?

Yes. All the time. I have a few of them (got them with free Amazon Prime
shipping but that URL was WAY too long to cite). I have them attached to my
main phone charger and on the PCs I use to charge oddball items like
cameras, MP3 players, etc.

They are good for telling when you're overloading your USB ports, too.
Revealed that a Sansa clip player's battery was going bad because it was
drawing way more current than before. It's helpful if you use it to take
baseline measurements of chargeable gear so that you know what it should be.
It also tells you how much juice your chargers can output (varies greatly)
and if they're really within specifications. You'd be surprised at how many
cheap Chinese chargers don't even meet the USB spec and are over or
undervoltage by more than 2 volts. Also tells you the voltage under load as
well as the amps being drawn by the chargee. (-:

--
Bobby G.

"micky" wrote in message

stuff snipped

Could be a noise spike that the unit picks up and reacts to, perhaps
tripping an audio limiting circuit temporarily so that you don't hear a
gigantic pop.

Does the unit have a remote? Does the behavior still occur when you put
black tape over the IR "eye"? Are these LED, CFL or incandescent lights?

Yes remote but never tried tape. Using the actual remote never causes
a loss of sound. Why would the light from the fixture do that, even if
it includes some IR? And what about the light from the stairwell (and
the upstairs hall on the same switch). I don't t hink either of those
lights can reach the IR eye.

Just spitballing based on the fact that it seems only switched light
fixtures affect the unit, not switching other kinds of loads. Besides, it's
a simple test to perform by just blocking the IR window. I know it's
far-fetched but it could be as the lamps fire up the are sending light
pulses that mimic the MUTE command and once the bulbs warm up their
emissions change. That would explain why it goes away after several
attempts (the bulb's warmed up). Are your lights on dimmers? What kind of
switches control them? Are they on the same circuit as the TV/DVDR? It
could be that anything in that chain (DVDR to modulator to TV) is causing
the problem but the TV is mostly likely.

If the guys at Sci-repair were stumped, it's likely to be something very
arcane that's happening, perhaps even related to something defective in the
equipment. Do you have a socket adapter? Can you screw that in instead of
the lightbulb and then try plugging in some non-light load to see if it
happens? If it does, we know that light has nothing to do with it and it's
probably a powerline glitch of some sort.

Anyway, those are the two things I would try. Running a non-lamp load from
one of the light sockets that exhibits the problem and taping over all the
IR windows on the equipment. There might even be an IR window on the
modulator.

They used to be incandescent and now they are CFL. Same thing either
way. Until yesterday I had 60 or 75W equivalents in the ceiling
fixture. Isn't that 15 or 19 watts? times 3. It wasn't enough to
read with so yesterday I put in 100w eqivalent, 25 watts times 3.

I think the spark from the on off switch, a silent switch with no or
almost no detent, is causing radiation that does soemthing.

Maybe one of our electrician experts can venture an opinion about silent,
non-snap switches and whether they can put a noise spike on the line.

If I remember, I'll do some more tests.

Please do. This is an oddball problem for sure. I'd also do a google
search using the model numbers of the devices you have to see if anyone's
had a similar problem.

--
Bobby G.

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 25 Jul 2015 23:20:31 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"micky" wrote in message

stuff snipped

Could be a noise spike that the unit picks up and reacts to, perhaps
tripping an audio limiting circuit temporarily so that you don't hear a
gigantic pop.

Does the unit have a remote? Does the behavior still occur when you put
black tape over the IR "eye"? Are these LED, CFL or incandescent lights?

Yes remote but never tried tape. Using the actual remote never causes
a loss of sound. Why would the light from the fixture do that, even if
it includes some IR? And what about the light from the stairwell (and
the upstairs hall on the same switch). I don't t hink either of those
lights can reach the IR eye.

Just spitballing based on the fact that it seems only switched light
fixtures affect the unit, not switching other kinds of loads. Besides, it's
a simple test to perform by just blocking the IR window. I know it's
far-fetched but it could be as the lamps fire up the are sending light
pulses that mimic the MUTE command and once the bulbs warm up their
emissions change.

That IS a stretch. Plus the DVDR doesn't have** a mute command, and two
different tvs have been affected, or maybe three

**Actually it's an annoyance that neither the DVDR or any VCR I've seen,
even my 500 dollar one that had everything else, has a mute command or
more importantly, a Previous Channel command. Sort of related, the
digital antalog converter box I'm using, which was 80 dollars minus the
40 dollar coupon, does have a Power On for the TV, which required no
setting and I guess is supposed to work without programming for any tv.


That would explain why it goes away after several
attempts (the bulb's warmed up). Are your lights on dimmers? What kind of

No.

switches control them?

The only lights I remember for sure do this are the bedroom ceiling, 3
of them, with two 3-way switches.

Are they on the same circuit as the TV/DVDR? It

I was going to say yes until I remembered that I installed the ceiling
light myself and it's on a different circuit. (with the light on the
other bedroom ceukubg, the light and outlet in the attic, and the
outlets and light at the workbench in the basement.)

So, No.

could be that anything in that chain (DVDR to modulator to TV) is causing
the problem but the TV is mostly likely.

If the guys at Sci-repair were stumped, it's likely to be something very
arcane that's happening, perhaps even related to something defective in the
equipment. Do you have a socket adapter? Can you screw that in instead of

Yeah, I have those things. I think mine are 60 years old or more. I
know I never bought one and I don't think my mother ever used one, so
they must have been in the hardware box** when my father died in 1955.
Maybe my grandfather bought them. He died 1930 or 40. **This is the
same box that contained the light bulb extensions, one of which I
finally used last year 40 years after I took possession of them.

Or they might come from my grandmother, on the other side of the family,
who moved out of her house in wtih her daughter around 1960. So
they're still 60 years old or more. ...... Where was I?

the lightbulb and then try plugging in some non-light load to see if it
happens? If it does, we know that light has nothing to do with it and it's
probably a powerline glitch of some sort.

That requires standing on the bed, which wobbles when I stand on it.
It's hard to change the lightbulbs plus there's a glass shade. I'm
getting worn out just thinking about it, but maybe I'll do it.

Anyway, those are the two things I would try. Running a non-lamp load from
one of the light sockets that exhibits the problem and taping over all the
IR windows on the equipment. There might even be an IR window on the
modulator.

They used to be incandescent and now they are CFL. Same thing either
way. Until yesterday I had 60 or 75W equivalents in the ceiling
fixture. Isn't that 15 or 19 watts? times 3. It wasn't enough to
read with so yesterday I put in 100w eqivalent, 25 watts times 3.

I think the spark from the on off switch, a silent switch with no or
almost no detent, is causing radiation that does soemthing.

Maybe one of our electrician experts can venture an opinion about silent,
non-snap switches and whether they can put a noise spike on the line.

If I remember, I'll do some more tests.

Please do.

Okay.

This is an oddball problem for sure. I'd also do a google
search using the model numbers of the devices you have to see if anyone's
had a similar problem.

I red a web forum about the DVDR, about 500 posts, and I still subscribe
to it (though no one posts anymore. At least I think I"m still
subscribed. It's on A-V forum, or whatever)

and no one said anything about this.

The TV is nothing special, and I expect no one talks about it.

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 25 Jul 2015 23:02:32 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"micky" wrote in message

stuff snipped

https://www.adafruit.com/products/1852 (USB Charger Doctor - recommended
to
me by someone here and INCREDIBLY useful for such situation. It tells
you

I love gadgets like this, but how often do such situations really occur?
Even in this case, I assume the OP is only academically curious, and
that his practical problem is solved by using strip A, and that he knows
this.

what voltage and amperage is actually reaching the charger. It's only
$7.50
and no one who charges anything by USB should be without it.)

I want you to convince me to buy this, but then I see

plus xxx for shipping. SHIPPING (CALCULATED IN CHECKOUT), I hate
that., Sure enough, they want my name, email, address, and PHONE
before they'll tell me the shipping cost.

And then I see these and wonder if I shoudl buy these too!

USB Micro-B Breakout Board
Simple but effective - this breakout board has a USB Micro-B connector,
with all 5 pins broken out. ...
$1.50

USB Cable with Switch
Add a power switch to any USB-powered project simply by plugging this
between the USB power port and ...
$2.95 Is unplugging just as good as using this switch?

Perhaps but it means less wear on the connectors which aren't as robust as
they should be. Not something I would buy - well, maybe. I avoid
over-taxing frequently used USB connectors by using short extension cords.
This because I once plugged in a USB cable into an OTA DVR and push the USB
jack right into the chassis. Not well anchored, as you can imagine. Effing
up a USB port on a table, phone or laptop can be a real PITA and expensive
to repair.

. . . there's going to be a lot of tail-chasing for little long-term or
useful edification for me, anyway, because if I had such a problem I'd
put
the Charger Doctor on the case (no financial interest - just a very happy
customer who saw similar items selling for $75.)

Wow. Okay the price is great, but do you really use it?

Yes. All the time. I have a few of them (got them with free Amazon Prime
shipping but that URL was WAY too long to cite). I have them attached to my
main phone charger and on the PCs I use to charge oddball items like
cameras, MP3 players, etc.

They are good for telling when you're overloading your USB ports, too.
Revealed that a Sansa clip player's battery was going bad because it was
drawing way more current than before. It's helpful if you use it to take
baseline measurements of chargeable gear so that you know what it should be.
It also tells you how much juice your chargers can output (varies greatly)
and if they're really within specifications. You'd be surprised at how many
cheap Chinese chargers don't even meet the USB spec and are over or
undervoltage by more than 2 volts. Also tells you the voltage under load as
well as the amps being drawn by the chargee. (-:

Okay, you've convinced me.

The breakout board is cheap but I'll probably never use it, and I could
make one from the bad flashdrive I have.

The cord with the switch might be useful and it coincides with my fetish
for adapters. i once tried to attach a switch to the flat grey indoor
telephone wire that went to a headset, so I could answer the phone with
it. Boy, was that hard, and when I was done, it was fragile. So
maybe I should buy this.

As to shipping Mr. Monster, I barely know what to do with it, so quick
shipping is not much of a plus. And Amazon has probably lost a customer
since I've bought everything I need, practically, and the 35 dollar
miiniimum is much harder to meet than $25 was. And membership, I'm not
going to spend money to spend money. Save hundereds their new
competitor, Jet says. That would require spending thousands, and I
might spend 100 at most this year at places like Amazon or Jet.

On Sunday, July 26, 2015 at 2:42:13 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 25 Jul 2015 23:02:32 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"micky" wrote in message

stuff snipped

https://www.adafruit.com/products/1852 (USB Charger Doctor - recommended
to
me by someone here and INCREDIBLY useful for such situation. It tells
you

I love gadgets like this, but how often do such situations really occur?
Even in this case, I assume the OP is only academically curious, and
that his practical problem is solved by using strip A, and that he knows
this.

what voltage and amperage is actually reaching the charger. It's only
$7.50
and no one who charges anything by USB should be without it.)

I want you to convince me to buy this, but then I see

plus xxx for shipping. SHIPPING (CALCULATED IN CHECKOUT), I hate
that., Sure enough, they want my name, email, address, and PHONE
before they'll tell me the shipping cost.

And then I see these and wonder if I shoudl buy these too!

USB Micro-B Breakout Board
Simple but effective - this breakout board has a USB Micro-B connector,
with all 5 pins broken out. ...
$1.50

USB Cable with Switch
Add a power switch to any USB-powered project simply by plugging this
between the USB power port and ...
$2.95 Is unplugging just as good as using this switch?

Perhaps but it means less wear on the connectors which aren't as robust as
they should be. Not something I would buy - well, maybe. I avoid
over-taxing frequently used USB connectors by using short extension cords.
This because I once plugged in a USB cable into an OTA DVR and push the USB
jack right into the chassis. Not well anchored, as you can imagine. Effing
up a USB port on a table, phone or laptop can be a real PITA and expensive
to repair.

. . . there's going to be a lot of tail-chasing for little long-term or
useful edification for me, anyway, because if I had such a problem I'd
put
the Charger Doctor on the case (no financial interest - just a very happy
customer who saw similar items selling for $75.)

Wow. Okay the price is great, but do you really use it?

Yes. All the time. I have a few of them (got them with free Amazon Prime
shipping but that URL was WAY too long to cite). I have them attached to my
main phone charger and on the PCs I use to charge oddball items like
cameras, MP3 players, etc.

They are good for telling when you're overloading your USB ports, too.
Revealed that a Sansa clip player's battery was going bad because it was
drawing way more current than before. It's helpful if you use it to take
baseline measurements of chargeable gear so that you know what it should be.
It also tells you how much juice your chargers can output (varies greatly)
and if they're really within specifications. You'd be surprised at how many
cheap Chinese chargers don't even meet the USB spec and are over or
undervoltage by more than 2 volts. Also tells you the voltage under load as
well as the amps being drawn by the chargee. (-:

Okay, you've convinced me.

The breakout board is cheap but I'll probably never use it, and I could
make one from the bad flashdrive I have.

The cord with the switch might be useful and it coincides with my fetish
for adapters. i once tried to attach a switch to the flat grey indoor
telephone wire that went to a headset, so I could answer the phone with
it. Boy, was that hard, and when I was done, it was fragile. So
maybe I should buy this.

As to shipping Mr. Monster, I barely know what to do with it, so quick
shipping is not much of a plus. And Amazon has probably lost a customer
since I've bought everything I need, practically, and the 35 dollar
miiniimum is much harder to meet than $25 was. And membership, I'm not
going to spend money to spend money. Save hundereds their new
competitor, Jet says. That would require spending thousands, and I
might spend 100 at most this year at places like Amazon or Jet.

I watch a lot of movies and TV shows on Amazon as a Prime member at no charge. It's good for watching movies or TV shows I missed. I can watch the latest movies on pirate sites but the quality isn't as good as the older flicks for free on Amazon. There is also a lot of free streaming music I can get as a Prime member too. I recently got extra memory for my Chromebook plus a Bluetooth mouse and headphones from Amazon and the free two day shipping was included with my Prime membership. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Prime Monster

On 26/07/2015 00:29, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 25 Jul 2015 12:40:47 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"yyy378" wrote in message
...

On 25/07/2015 19:46, Robert Green wrote:
"yyy378" wrote in message

stuff snipped

The cell phone shows a battery with a green bar, a typical sign of
charging. However, after charging overnight, the battery still shows 0%
and when I unplug the phone, it quickly goes dead.

When I use the same charger on the same strip B, same spot, to charge
another phone, the percentage does go up, meaning it is actually
charging.

Sounds like a dead battery in phone B. The indicators are often based
on
voltage and batteries can show good voltage under very light loads (like
a
metering circuit) but not have any real power to deliver when put under
a
real load.

--
Bobby G.


I thought so too until I plugged the charger to strip A and it started
to charge the phone B which I had thought having a dead battery.

Did it fully charge that battery, i.e. did it stay on for long after it was
charged in strip A? Are you sure you're getting full power out of strip B?
Did you measure it with a voltmeter?

Plugging in an unpowered charger into a device like a cell phone can give
some squirrely results, at least based on what happens when the power fails
in my house when the phone, laptop and a bunch of other gear is being
charged.

One last question - are the plug blades on the charger polarized? I can't
remember what allegedly unpolarized device I had that would not work
correctly if it was plugged in upside-down (relatively speaking).

Other than that, I'm officially out of ideas. Sorry I couldn't help. I
bought a USB charge monitor (and lots of adapters) so I could monitor the
current flow into the device being charged. Helpful in situations like this
and only cost $6. To diagnose this problem correctly I'd use those along
with a DVM to measure the voltage at strip B. But remote diagnostics on a
text-based system where you can't even draw a sketch easily - yes, I give
up. (-:

I would recommend getting another power strip and seeing if it exhibits the
same characteristics as the one you have now.

Or if you're really dedicated to knowing the answer, and I gather that
is the point of the thread, reversing strips a and b can be done right
now.

I tried it (reverse the order of the two strip) and it did charge the
phone B that was unable to be charged before. What's going on? I have no
clue.

Anyway, thanks to anyone who replied to my question.

On 7/26/2015 11:35 PM, yyy378 wrote:


Or if you're really dedicated to knowing the answer, and I gather that
is the point of the thread, reversing strips a and b can be done right
now.

I tried it (reverse the order of the two strip) and it did charge the
phone B that was unable to be charged before. What's going on? I have no
clue.

Anyway, thanks to anyone who replied to my question.

Sounds like time to call a preist, and have both
power strips water baptized in the salty ocean,
while the power strips are plugged in.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..