The problem I'm having is that the a/c continues running - for as much
as an hour - past the past the point that the ambient temperature first
matches the set temperature.

Let's say I last set the temperature at 77F and the display says the
ambient is 77F; thus, the a/c is off. I now move the set temperature
down to 76F. The a/c stays on until the ambient reached below 75, but I
don't think that much of a swing is normal.

This Hunter 44110 thermostat has a function called Span. The manual says
this: "allows you to adjust the system ON/OFF cycle rate. The default
setting is 2 (the system cycles ON or OFF when the temperature is within
1 degree F above and below the set temperature).

I haven't adjusted the Span to 1, mainly because for the nine months
I've lived here, there was no excess run time and the temperature swing
was very low.

Sounds like I need a new thermostat. Do you agree?

Thanks,

R1

On 7/16/2015 7:42 AM, Rebel1 wrote:
The problem I'm having is that the a/c continues running - for as much
as an hour - past the past the point that the ambient temperature first
matches the set temperature.

Let's say I last set the temperature at 77F and the display says the
ambient is 77F; thus, the a/c is off. I now move the set temperature
down to 76F. The a/c stays on until the ambient reached below 75, but I
don't think that much of a swing is normal.

This Hunter 44110 thermostat has a function called Span. The manual says
this: "allows you to adjust the system ON/OFF cycle rate. The default
setting is 2 (the system cycles ON or OFF when the temperature is within
1 degree F above and below the set temperature).

I haven't adjusted the Span to 1, mainly because for the nine months
I've lived here, there was no excess run time and the temperature swing
was very low.

Sounds like I need a new thermostat. Do you agree?

Thanks,

R1

Can't hurt trying to change the "span". I've never had good luck with
anything but Honeywell thermostats. The one's I have don't have a "span"
setting but don't seem to need it. Well actually they do, but it's
hidden in some of the settings like 'hot water or forced air' settings.
I had a non Honeywell in my motor home and it suffered from severe
cycle-itis. In AC mode you'd sweat before it would turn on and freeze
before it turns off. I now have a Honeywell that works great, however,
because the motor home uses DC for control and there actually a heat
pump and a totally separate furnace, setting it up is kind of weird ...
but no cycle-itis, at least.

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 07:42:57 -0400, Rebel1
wrote:

The problem I'm having is that the a/c continues running - for as much
as an hour - past the past the point that the ambient temperature first
matches the set temperature.

Let's say I last set the temperature at 77F and the display says the
ambient is 77F; thus, the a/c is off. I now move the set temperature
down to 76F. The a/c stays on until the ambient reached below 75, but I
don't think that much of a swing is normal.

This Hunter 44110 thermostat has a function called Span. The manual says
this: "allows you to adjust the system ON/OFF cycle rate. The default
setting is 2 (the system cycles ON or OFF when the temperature is within
1 degree F above and below the set temperature).

I haven't adjusted the Span to 1, mainly because for the nine months
I've lived here, there was no excess run time and the temperature swing
was very low.

Sounds like I need a new thermostat. Do you agree?

Thanks,

R1

No, I don't agree. It sounds like the thermostat is working as
intended. If it set to 76, I would expect it to start the A/C when
the temp rises to 77 and keep running until the temp reaches 75. In
other words, a span of 2. That is how mine and many others work.
The real question is what changed to make you notice something. Is is
possible, the A/C is failing such that it takes a much longer time to
cool? As another person said, you can change the span to 1 to make it
cycle twice as often. That won't hurt anything, but I suspect you
need to have the A/C unit checked out. Buying a new thermostat won't
change anything.

Pat

On 7/16/2015 7:42 AM, Rebel1 wrote:
The problem I'm having is that the a/c continues running - for as much
as an hour - past the past the point that the ambient temperature first
matches the set temperature.

Let's say I last set the temperature at 77F and the display says the
ambient is 77F; thus, the a/c is off. I now move the set temperature
down to 76F. The a/c stays on until the ambient reached below 75, but I
don't think that much of a swing is normal.

This Hunter 44110 thermostat has a function called Span. The manual says
this: "allows you to adjust the system ON/OFF cycle rate. The default
setting is 2 (the system cycles ON or OFF when the temperature is within
1 degree F above and below the set temperature).

I haven't adjusted the Span to 1, mainly because for the nine months
I've lived here, there was no excess run time and the temperature swing
was very low.

Sounds like I need a new thermostat. Do you agree?

Thanks,

R1


Does the temp swing more than a couple degrees? It
could be your thermostat, or could be some other
part of the system going bad. Seriously, two degree
swing is just fine for most folks.

I knew some folks, I visited.It was hot in the house,
and they had just returned the defedive thermostat 3rd
time, they were on the 4th stat. I got permission to
look around, and found a sticky relay on the furnace
control board.

You may be asking for too much, with one degree swing.
--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

Rebel1 wrote:
....
This Hunter 44110 thermostat has a function called Span. The manual says
this: "allows you to adjust the system ON/OFF cycle rate. The default
setting is 2 (the system cycles ON or OFF when the temperature is within
1 degree F above and below the set temperature).

I haven't adjusted the Span to 1, mainly because for the nine months
I've lived here, there was no excess run time and the temperature swing
was very low.

Sounds like I need a new thermostat. Do you agree?

no, i think you're misunderstanding. if you want the
air to go off one degree higher just bump it up one
more degree...


songbird

On 7/16/2015 8:14 AM, Pat wrote:
On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 07:42:57 -0400, Rebel1
wrote:

The problem I'm having is that the a/c continues running - for as much
as an hour - past the past the point that the ambient temperature first
matches the set temperature.

Let's say I last set the temperature at 77F and the display says the
ambient is 77F; thus, the a/c is off. I now move the set temperature
down to 76F. The a/c stays on until the ambient reached below 75, but I
don't think that much of a swing is normal.

This Hunter 44110 thermostat has a function called Span. The manual says
this: "allows you to adjust the system ON/OFF cycle rate. The default
setting is 2 (the system cycles ON or OFF when the temperature is within
1 degree F above and below the set temperature).

I haven't adjusted the Span to 1, mainly because for the nine months
I've lived here, there was no excess run time and the temperature swing
was very low.

Sounds like I need a new thermostat. Do you agree?

Thanks,

R1

No, I don't agree. It sounds like the thermostat is working as
intended. If it set to 76, I would expect it to start the A/C when
the temp rises to 77 and keep running until the temp reaches 75. In
other words, a span of 2. That is how mine and many others work.
The real question is what changed to make you notice something. Is is
possible, the A/C is failing such that it takes a much longer time to
cool? As another person said, you can change the span to 1 to make it
cycle twice as often. That won't hurt anything, but I suspect you
need to have the A/C unit checked out. Buying a new thermostat won't
change anything.

Pat


I don't know what happened recently, say within the last week or two. I
just noticed that the a/c runs much longer. The temperature at the
supply registers is about 58F; just downstream of the evaporator it's
54F, which is the normal 20 degree drop from the return air from the rooms.

I've set the span to 1 degree and test it that way for a day or two.

Thanks to the other two guys as well.

R1

On 07/16/2015 7:50 AM, Rebel1 wrote:
....

I don't know what happened recently, say within the last week or two. I
just noticed that the a/c runs much longer. The temperature at the
supply registers is about 58F; just downstream of the evaporator it's
54F, which is the normal 20 degree drop from the return air from the rooms.

It's gotten much hotter outside, maybe???

I've set the span to 1 degree and test it that way for a day or two.

Have you changed filters (or at least checked they're clean), made sure
the condenser fins, etc., are also clear, the outdoor unit is also free
of obstructions, etc., etc., etc., ...?

I'm in agreement with the opinion it's unlikely to be the thermostat
itself that's the culprit here.

--

On 7/16/2015 8:50 AM, Rebel1 wrote:
I don't know what happened recently, say within the last week or two. I
just noticed that the a/c runs much longer. The temperature at the
supply registers is about 58F; just downstream of the evaporator it's
54F, which is the normal 20 degree drop from the return air from the rooms.

I've set the span to 1 degree and test it that way for a day or two.

Thanks to the other two guys as well.

R1


If the AC runs longer, changing thermostat won't
help.

It is possible the humidity is much higher, and
it's also possible the unit needs maintenance.

From here, the thermostat doesn't sound like the
problem.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 9:51:08 AM UTC-4, songbird wrote:
Rebel1 wrote:
...
This Hunter 44110 thermostat has a function called Span. The manual says
this: "allows you to adjust the system ON/OFF cycle rate. The default
setting is 2 (the system cycles ON or OFF when the temperature is within
1 degree F above and below the set temperature).

I haven't adjusted the Span to 1, mainly because for the nine months
I've lived here, there was no excess run time and the temperature swing
was very low.

Sounds like I need a new thermostat. Do you agree?

no, i think you're misunderstanding. if you want the
air to go off one degree higher just bump it up one
more degree...


songbird

His problem is the range of swing, not the set temp. Solution is
to change the swing parameter from 2 deg swing to 1 deg. IDK why he
didn't just try it. If that results in too many start/stops,
then I guess it's time for a better thermostat. I've had very
good experience with Honeywell VisonPro.

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 07:42:57 -0400, Rebel1 wrote:

The problem I'm having is that the a/c continues running - for as much
as an hour - past the past the point that the ambient temperature first
matches the set temperature.

Let's say I last set the temperature at 77F and the display says the
ambient is 77F; thus, the a/c is off. I now move the set temperature
down to 76F. The a/c stays on until the ambient reached below 75, but I
don't think that much of a swing is normal.

This Hunter 44110 thermostat has a function called Span. The manual says
this: "allows you to adjust the system ON/OFF cycle rate. The default
setting is 2 (the system cycles ON or OFF when the temperature is within
1 degree F above and below the set temperature).

I haven't adjusted the Span to 1, mainly because for the nine months

Why shoudln't I pile on?

So you didn't have a problem so you didn't change the setting and now
you do have a problem but you still don't want to change the setting
even though that might be what the setting is for, and are considering
buying a new one. Not a good plan, for thermostats and other problems
too.

I've lived here, there was no excess run time and the temperature swing
was very low.

Sounds like I need a new thermostat. Do you agree?

Thanks,

R1

On 7/16/15 7:42 AM, Rebel1 wrote:
The problem I'm having is that the a/c continues running - for as much
as an hour - past the past the point that the ambient temperature first
matches the set temperature.

Let's say I last set the temperature at 77F and the display says the
ambient is 77F; thus, the a/c is off. I now move the set temperature
down to 76F. The a/c stays on until the ambient reached below 75, but I
don't think that much of a swing is normal.

This Hunter 44110 thermostat has a function called Span. The manual says
this: "allows you to adjust the system ON/OFF cycle rate. The default
setting is 2 (the system cycles ON or OFF when the temperature is within
1 degree F above and below the set temperature).

I haven't adjusted the Span to 1, mainly because for the nine months
I've lived here, there was no excess run time and the temperature swing
was very low.

Sounds like I need a new thermostat. Do you agree?

Thanks,

R1


It sounds OK to me. The display of my thermostat shows when it's
calling for heating or cooling. That can be very helpful.

My swing doesn't seem to be adjustable. Sometimes if the thermometer
says 79 and I step down the setting to 78, it doesn't always come on. A
reading of 79 may mean 78.6, and 0.6F may not be enough to turn it on.

For efficiency, an air conditioner should be sized to run continuously
on the hottest, most humid afternoon. When it's 90 and humid, mine may
run only a few minutes at a time and cost a dollar or so a day. If it's
in the high 90s, and the dew point is high, and the house has been
baking in the sun for hours, and there's a breeze to increase
infiltration of hot, humid air, it may run continuously.

My thermostat is mounted on an old-fashioned plaster wall. Behind the
wall is a closet that may be hotter than the room. That can cause the
air conditioner to take longer to satisfy the thermostat.

On hot afternoons when it runs a lot, I may let relative humidity be my
guide and step up the thermostat a degree at a time. As long as the air
conditioner runs enough to hold down the humidity, a couple of degrees
warmer will be fine. If I've let the temperature rise in the afternoon,
I can step it down at night so the air conditioner will run enough to
control the humidity.

On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 4:05:13 PM UTC-4, J Burns wrote:

....snip...

My swing doesn't seem to be adjustable. Sometimes if the thermometer
says 79 and I step down the setting to 78, it doesn't always come on. A
reading of 79 may mean 78.6, and 0.6F may not be enough to turn it on.

...snip...

You have your stat set at 79? Holy crap!

Anything above 74-75 outside for more than a few hours and our A/C is on and
set for 70. On the flip side, winter heat is set for 68. (We'd do 68 in the
summer too but even I can see the economic foolishness of that!)

The last few nights have been in the 50's. We have our windows open and a
fan drawing air into the bedroom. That's why God invented comforters and
snuggling.

Do you turn the heat on when the night temps dip into the 60's?

On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 4:05:13 PM UTC-4, J Burns wrote:
On 7/16/15 7:42 AM, Rebel1 wrote:
The problem I'm having is that the a/c continues running - for as much
as an hour - past the past the point that the ambient temperature first
matches the set temperature.

Let's say I last set the temperature at 77F and the display says the
ambient is 77F; thus, the a/c is off. I now move the set temperature
down to 76F. The a/c stays on until the ambient reached below 75, but I
don't think that much of a swing is normal.

This Hunter 44110 thermostat has a function called Span. The manual says
this: "allows you to adjust the system ON/OFF cycle rate. The default
setting is 2 (the system cycles ON or OFF when the temperature is within
1 degree F above and below the set temperature).

I haven't adjusted the Span to 1, mainly because for the nine months
I've lived here, there was no excess run time and the temperature swing
was very low.

Sounds like I need a new thermostat. Do you agree?

Thanks,

R1


It sounds OK to me. The display of my thermostat shows when it's
calling for heating or cooling. That can be very helpful.

My swing doesn't seem to be adjustable. Sometimes if the thermometer
says 79 and I step down the setting to 78, it doesn't always come on. A
reading of 79 may mean 78.6, and 0.6F may not be enough to turn it on.

For efficiency, an air conditioner should be sized to run continuously
on the hottest, most humid afternoon.

I'd say if it's sized that small, you're not going to be very happy.
If it's running constantly on the hottest day just to maintain,
what happens on days when it's say 10F below the hottest,
but the AC has been off or turned way back? It's going to take a very
long time to bring the temp down. You need some reasonable amount of reserve.

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 13:25:25 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 4:05:13 PM UTC-4, J Burns wrote:

...snip...

My swing doesn't seem to be adjustable. Sometimes if the thermometer
says 79 and I step down the setting to 78, it doesn't always come on. A
reading of 79 may mean 78.6, and 0.6F may not be enough to turn it on.

..snip...

You have your stat set at 79? Holy crap!

Anything above 74-75 outside for more than a few hours and our A/C is on and
set for 70. On the flip side, winter heat is set for 68. (We'd do 68 in the
summer too but even I can see the economic foolishness of that!)

The last few nights have been in the 50's. We have our windows open and a
fan drawing air into the bedroom. That's why God invented comforters and
snuggling.

Do you turn the heat on when the night temps dip into the 60's?
Down to 8C overnight last night, and expecting 31C tomorrow
afternoon. Furnace and AC both turned off - dehumuidifier running in
the basement when hydro rate is mid - low - never when on high rate.

If the humidity is high and it goes over 31C the AC might get turned
on.

On 7/16/2015 4:05 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 7/16/15 7:42 AM, Rebel1 wrote:
The problem I'm having is that the a/c continues running - for as much
as an hour - past the past the point that the ambient temperature first
matches the set temperature.

Let's say I last set the temperature at 77F and the display says the
ambient is 77F; thus, the a/c is off. I now move the set temperature
down to 76F. The a/c stays on until the ambient reached below 75, but I
don't think that much of a swing is normal.

This Hunter 44110 thermostat has a function called Span. The manual says
this: "allows you to adjust the system ON/OFF cycle rate. The default
setting is 2 (the system cycles ON or OFF when the temperature is within
1 degree F above and below the set temperature).

I haven't adjusted the Span to 1, mainly because for the nine months
I've lived here, there was no excess run time and the temperature swing
was very low.

Sounds like I need a new thermostat. Do you agree?

Thanks,

R1


It sounds OK to me. The display of my thermostat shows when it's
calling for heating or cooling. That can be very helpful.

My swing doesn't seem to be adjustable. Sometimes if the thermometer
says 79 and I step down the setting to 78, it doesn't always come on. A
reading of 79 may mean 78.6, and 0.6F may not be enough to turn it on.

For efficiency, an air conditioner should be sized to run continuously
on the hottest, most humid afternoon. When it's 90 and humid, mine may
run only a few minutes at a time and cost a dollar or so a day. If it's
in the high 90s, and the dew point is high, and the house has been
baking in the sun for hours, and there's a breeze to increase
infiltration of hot, humid air, it may run continuously.

My thermostat is mounted on an old-fashioned plaster wall. Behind the
wall is a closet that may be hotter than the room. That can cause the
air conditioner to take longer to satisfy the thermostat.

On hot afternoons when it runs a lot, I may let relative humidity be my
guide and step up the thermostat a degree at a time. As long as the air
conditioner runs enough to hold down the humidity, a couple of degrees
warmer will be fine. If I've let the temperature rise in the afternoon,
I can step it down at night so the air conditioner will run enough to
control the humidity.


So far, with the span set to 1, it's not running as long. I can't yet
comment of whether the a/c cycles on and off too often.

(With my thermostat I have to press the temperature Up and Down buttons
for about three seconds to get to the span adjust mode.)

The indoor filter was thoroughly cleaned just a few weeks ago, after
what may have been 15 years without a cleaning. (After clogging to a
certain point, the resulting force of the incoming air causes the filter
to be released from its retainer, which in turn allows the air to bypass
the filter around its edges. Clever design.)

A hour ago, I cleaned the fins in the outdoor unit. We'll see what
happens over the next day or so.

One thing I'm missing is the humidity connection. The thermostat
responds only to temperature, so why does humidity affect run time?

A common problem happens most nights here in central Florida, 20 miles
from the Gulf. During the evening, the outside temperature drops so the
a/c doesn't run as often. At the same time, outside humidity increases
and the house becomes mildly uncomfortable. At 6:30 am, it not unusual
for the outside temp to be 75 and the humidity to be 93%.

Thanks, everyone, for your responses.

R1

On 7/16/15 7:32 PM, Rebel1 wrote:



One thing I'm missing is the humidity connection. The thermostat
responds only to temperature, so why does humidity affect run time?

The output temperature can't be below the output dew point. The
evaporator has to soak up a lot more heat to bring the dew point down a
degree (condensing moisture) than to bring dry air down a degree.

I monitor the output with a thermometer probe in the vent nearest the
evaporator. It won't cool the air as many degrees when the air in the
house is humid. It is making me more comfortable by removing humidity,
but it will take longer to cool the thermostat to the shutoff point.

A common problem happens most nights here in central Florida, 20 miles
from the Gulf. During the evening, the outside temperature drops so the
a/c doesn't run as often. At the same time, outside humidity increases
and the house becomes mildly uncomfortable. At 6:30 am, it not unusual
for the outside temp to be 75 and the humidity to be 93%.

Some mornings, the indoor temperature is great, but it's very humid.
That's uncomfortable and can cause caked salt, caked sugar, and mildew.
I may turn down the thermostat to run the AC a little.

On 7/16/15 4:25 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 4:05:13 PM UTC-4, J Burns wrote:

...snip...

My swing doesn't seem to be adjustable. Sometimes if the thermometer
says 79 and I step down the setting to 78, it doesn't always come on. A
reading of 79 may mean 78.6, and 0.6F may not be enough to turn it on.

..snip...

You have your stat set at 79? Holy crap!

79 in the morning would probably be way too humid, but I may edge it up
to 81 in the early evening, when the AC is running enough to control the
humidity.

Anything above 74-75 outside for more than a few hours and our A/C is on and
set for 70. On the flip side, winter heat is set for 68. (We'd do 68 in the
summer too but even I can see the economic foolishness of that!)

Sometimes I'll run the AC when it's cooler than 74 outside (and inside),
if the relative humidity is too high. Trying to _keep_ the house that
cool could mean a bigger battle with relative humidity.

The last few nights have been in the 50's. We have our windows open and a
fan drawing air into the bedroom. That's why God invented comforters and
snuggling.

I do that whenever possible. The dew point, which may be quite different
than what the National Weather Service measures 10 miles from here,
determines how far it's feasible to cool the house that way. As outside
air cools the interior, relative humidity will rise. When it gets high,
the natural fibers in wood, textiles, and paper can absorb a lot of
moisture. It can be hard for the AC to get rid of all those gallons of
water after I close the windows.

On 7/16/15 4:35 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 4:05:13 PM UTC-4, J Burns wrote:


It sounds OK to me. The display of my thermostat shows when it's
calling for heating or cooling. That can be very helpful.

My swing doesn't seem to be adjustable. Sometimes if the thermometer
says 79 and I step down the setting to 78, it doesn't always come on. A
reading of 79 may mean 78.6, and 0.6F may not be enough to turn it on.

For efficiency, an air conditioner should be sized to run continuously
on the hottest, most humid afternoon.

I'd say if it's sized that small, you're not going to be very happy.
If it's running constantly on the hottest day just to maintain,
what happens on days when it's say 10F below the hottest,
but the AC has been off or turned way back? It's going to take a very
long time to bring the temp down. You need some reasonable amount of reserve.

That happened when the system was new. The house had been empty a
couple of weeks when my aunt brought my 90-year-old grandmother home. It
was in the mid-80s and humid inside, and a lot hotter outside. For
hours, my aunt thought the AC was broken.

However, you're most comfortable while the AC is running. While it's
off, humidity increases. At a given thermostat setting, a little AC that
keeps running will keep you more comfortable than one with twice the
capacity running half the time.

On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 9:23:47 PM UTC-4, J Burns wrote:
On 7/16/15 7:32 PM, Rebel1 wrote:



One thing I'm missing is the humidity connection. The thermostat
responds only to temperature, so why does humidity affect run time?

The output temperature can't be below the output dew point. The
evaporator has to soak up a lot more heat to bring the dew point down a
degree (condensing moisture) than to bring dry air down a degree.

I monitor the output with a thermometer probe in the vent nearest the
evaporator. It won't cool the air as many degrees when the air in the
house is humid. It is making me more comfortable by removing humidity,
but it will take longer to cool the thermostat to the shutoff point.

A common problem happens most nights here in central Florida, 20 miles
from the Gulf. During the evening, the outside temperature drops so the
a/c doesn't run as often. At the same time, outside humidity increases
and the house becomes mildly uncomfortable. At 6:30 am, it not unusual
for the outside temp to be 75 and the humidity to be 93%.

Some mornings, the indoor temperature is great, but it's very humid.
That's uncomfortable and can cause caked salt, caked sugar, and mildew.
I may turn down the thermostat to run the AC a little.

I find that just running the system for 20 mins or so will
take enough humidity out so that it feels a lot more comfortable.
During that time, the temp reading may not even move down one
degree.

On 7/17/2015 8:17 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 9:23:47 PM UTC-4, J Burns wrote:
On 7/16/15 7:32 PM, Rebel1 wrote:



One thing I'm missing is the humidity connection. The thermostat
responds only to temperature, so why does humidity affect run time?

The output temperature can't be below the output dew point. The
evaporator has to soak up a lot more heat to bring the dew point down a
degree (condensing moisture) than to bring dry air down a degree.

I monitor the output with a thermometer probe in the vent nearest the
evaporator. It won't cool the air as many degrees when the air in the
house is humid. It is making me more comfortable by removing humidity,
but it will take longer to cool the thermostat to the shutoff point.

A common problem happens most nights here in central Florida, 20 miles
from the Gulf. During the evening, the outside temperature drops so the
a/c doesn't run as often. At the same time, outside humidity increases
and the house becomes mildly uncomfortable. At 6:30 am, it not unusual
for the outside temp to be 75 and the humidity to be 93%.

Some mornings, the indoor temperature is great, but it's very humid.
That's uncomfortable and can cause caked salt, caked sugar, and mildew.
I may turn down the thermostat to run the AC a little.

I find that just running the system for 20 mins or so will
take enough humidity out so that it feels a lot more comfortable.
During that time, the temp reading may not even move down one
degree.

Very good point. I have a Honeywell that has a humidity setting. It
allows the AC to run, actually overrun in order to try to achieve better
humidity. And because of what you just said, it can do it with only
minor temperature change. That's very important where I live because
the temp is usually cooler but, because of the rich forestation and lots
of streams, the humidity is high. I have a 2 stage compressor and it
usually only runs on stage one. In fact, it just turned on now at 8:30
AM; the set point is 77 it currently reads 74 inside. The humidity is
51%. Outside it is 68 degrees but humidity is 91%. That thermostat is a
great product, at least for my area.

On Friday, July 17, 2015 at 8:35:57 AM UTC-4, Art Todesco wrote:


I find that just running the system for 20 mins or so will
take enough humidity out so that it feels a lot more comfortable.
During that time, the temp reading may not even move down one
degree.

Very good point. I have a Honeywell that has a humidity setting. It
allows the AC to run, actually overrun in order to try to achieve better
humidity. And because of what you just said, it can do it with only
minor temperature change. That's very important where I live because
the temp is usually cooler but, because of the rich forestation and lots
of streams, the humidity is high. I have a 2 stage compressor and it
usually only runs on stage one. In fact, it just turned on now at 8:30
AM; the set point is 77 it currently reads 74 inside. The humidity is
51%. Outside it is 68 degrees but humidity is 91%. That thermostat is a
great product, at least for my area.

And having a two stage is helpful in those cases, ie where you don't
need or want a drop in temp, but want the humidity taken out. It can
run longer, take more water out, circulate more air around, in low stage.

On 7/16/2015 3:25 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 4:05:13 PM UTC-4, J Burns wrote:

...snip...

My swing doesn't seem to be adjustable. Sometimes if the thermometer
says 79 and I step down the setting to 78, it doesn't always come on. A
reading of 79 may mean 78.6, and 0.6F may not be enough to turn it on.

..snip...

You have your stat set at 79? Holy crap!

Anything above 74-75 outside for more than a few hours and our A/C is on and
set for 70. On the flip side, winter heat is set for 68. (We'd do 68 in the
summer too but even I can see the economic foolishness of that!)

The last few nights have been in the 50's. We have our windows open and a
fan drawing air into the bedroom. That's why God invented comforters and
snuggling.

Do you turn the heat on when the night temps dip into the 60's?


It's been really hot here the last couple of weeks and one of our window
AC's began acting up, so we went and bought a 2nd of those portable ac's
on wheels. It works really well, too.

--
Maggie

On 7/17/15 8:17 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 9:23:47 PM UTC-4, J Burns wrote:
On 7/16/15 7:32 PM, Rebel1 wrote:



One thing I'm missing is the humidity connection. The thermostat
responds only to temperature, so why does humidity affect run time?

The output temperature can't be below the output dew point. The
evaporator has to soak up a lot more heat to bring the dew point down a
degree (condensing moisture) than to bring dry air down a degree.

I monitor the output with a thermometer probe in the vent nearest the
evaporator. It won't cool the air as many degrees when the air in the
house is humid. It is making me more comfortable by removing humidity,
but it will take longer to cool the thermostat to the shutoff point.

A common problem happens most nights here in central Florida, 20 miles
from the Gulf. During the evening, the outside temperature drops so the
a/c doesn't run as often. At the same time, outside humidity increases
and the house becomes mildly uncomfortable. At 6:30 am, it not unusual
for the outside temp to be 75 and the humidity to be 93%.

Some mornings, the indoor temperature is great, but it's very humid.
That's uncomfortable and can cause caked salt, caked sugar, and mildew.
I may turn down the thermostat to run the AC a little.

I find that just running the system for 20 mins or so will
take enough humidity out so that it feels a lot more comfortable.
During that time, the temp reading may not even move down one
degree.

It will feel more comfortable, but according to my readings, humidity
will immediately start to climb.

Most of the humidity in my house is in solid materials. At a given
temperature, that water will have a certain vapor pressure. It will try
to maintain a certain relative humidity in the air. When the AC dries
the air a little, evaporation from wood, fabric, paper, and other
materials will start bringing the relative humidity back up.

Yesterday the temperature reached 89 and the dew point was in the high
60s. In the morning, the house was cool, but I set the AC to run a
little to control the humidity. Altogether, it ran under 3 hours from
midnight to midnight.

That's an average of 7.5 minutes per hour. If the unit had been twice
as big, it would have averaged under 4 minutes per hour at the same
temperature settings. Humidity would have felt worse.

On 7/17/15 8:55 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Friday, July 17, 2015 at 8:35:57 AM UTC-4, Art Todesco wrote:


I find that just running the system for 20 mins or so will
take enough humidity out so that it feels a lot more comfortable.
During that time, the temp reading may not even move down one
degree.

Very good point. I have a Honeywell that has a humidity setting. It
allows the AC to run, actually overrun in order to try to achieve better
humidity. And because of what you just said, it can do it with only
minor temperature change. That's very important where I live because
the temp is usually cooler but, because of the rich forestation and lots
of streams, the humidity is high. I have a 2 stage compressor and it
usually only runs on stage one. In fact, it just turned on now at 8:30
AM; the set point is 77 it currently reads 74 inside. The humidity is
51%. Outside it is 68 degrees but humidity is 91%. That thermostat is a
great product, at least for my area.

And having a two stage is helpful in those cases, ie where you don't
need or want a drop in temp, but want the humidity taken out. It can
run longer, take more water out, circulate more air around, in low stage.

Yeah, that's what I want! (Now I feel guilty for coveting. Thou shalt
not covet they neighbor's wife, nor his ass, nor his two-stage AC.)

On 7/17/15 8:35 AM, Art Todesco wrote:
On 7/17/2015 8:17 AM, trader_4 wrote:


I find that just running the system for 20 mins or so will
take enough humidity out so that it feels a lot more comfortable.
During that time, the temp reading may not even move down one
degree.

If the RH is high enough, my AC may use 75% of its energy to wring out
moisture and 25% to cool the air. It would condense moisture better if I
could bring the blower down to the recommended 400 cfm per ton, but it's
the furnace air handler and can't be set that low. (I've read of
variable-speed air handlers. That sounds dandy for humidity control.)

Very good point. I have a Honeywell that has a humidity setting. It
allows the AC to run, actually overrun in order to try to achieve better
humidity. And because of what you just said, it can do it with only
minor temperature change. That's very important where I live because
the temp is usually cooler but, because of the rich forestation and lots
of streams, the humidity is high. I have a 2 stage compressor and it
usually only runs on stage one. In fact, it just turned on now at 8:30
AM; the set point is 77 it currently reads 74 inside. The humidity is
51%. Outside it is 68 degrees but humidity is 91%. That thermostat is a
great product, at least for my area.

I didn't know it was available. You've shattered my dream of inventing
it, someday when I got smarter!

On 7/17/2015 2:21 PM, J Burns wrote:

Most of the humidity in my house is in solid materials. At a given
temperature, that water will have a certain vapor pressure. It will try
to maintain a certain relative humidity in the air. When the AC dries
the air a little, evaporation from wood, fabric, paper, and other
materials will start bringing the relative humidity back up.


I had visions of sugar crystals and chunks of
salt in the air, as the humidity was solid
materials.

That sure was a bit strange.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 7/17/15 5:05 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/17/2015 2:21 PM, J Burns wrote:

Most of the humidity in my house is in solid materials. At a given
temperature, that water will have a certain vapor pressure. It will try
to maintain a certain relative humidity in the air. When the AC dries
the air a little, evaporation from wood, fabric, paper, and other
materials will start bringing the relative humidity back up.


I had visions of sugar crystals and chunks of
salt in the air, as the humidity was solid
materials.

That sure was a bit strange.

I think nylon is one synthetic fiber that will absorb lots of moisture
at high humidity. I have lots of carpet. I don't know what it's made
of. If I could reduce the stuff in the house that absorbs moisture, the
AC could give me a quicker drop in humidity.

Moisture-absorbing content can be an advantage. If I can get a good day
to dry by venting, the absorbent fibers will help reduce indoor humidity
on subsequent humid days.

Cotton will absorb an enormous amount of water at high humidity. Before
AC, I wonder if southerners took advantage of that. Hang a lot of quilts
in the sun to dry, then bring them in to hold the humidity down.

Venting before dawn, I used to let the indoor humidity go to 80% and
above sometimes. (I didn't know it was that high because my mechanical
gauge was faulty.) In terms of temperature, that wasn't a disadvantage;
in pulling moisture out of the air, the AC was causing interior cooling
by evaporation from humid material. Letting it get that high even
temporarily caused trouble with sugar, salt, and the digital timer on
the side of my refrigerator.

On 7/17/2015 10:29 AM, Muggles wrote:
On 7/16/2015 3:25 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
snip

It's been really hot here the last couple of weeks and one of our window
AC's began acting up, so we went and bought a 2nd of those portable ac's
on wheels. It works really well, too.

I'll bite. How does the heat from the compressor get disposed of to the
outdoors if the a/cs are on wheels?

On 7/17/15 7:30 PM, Rebel1 wrote:
On 7/17/2015 10:29 AM, Muggles wrote:
On 7/16/2015 3:25 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
snip

It's been really hot here the last couple of weeks and one of our window
AC's began acting up, so we went and bought a 2nd of those portable ac's
on wheels. It works really well, too.

I'll bite. How does the heat from the compressor get disposed of to the
outdoors if the a/cs are on wheels?

I was curious so I went to Amazon. From there, I went to Honeywell for
an owner's manual.

It has a 5" flexible hose and a flattened window nozzle with an adapter
to adjust to your window width. Amazon customers say you can leave your
screen in.

There doesn't seem to be a hose to bring in outside air to cool the
condenser. If it sucks hot, humid outside air into the room to replace
the exhaust air, it sounds like it wouldn't cool the room very well.

On 7/17/2015 9:28 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 7/17/15 7:30 PM, Rebel1 wrote:
On 7/17/2015 10:29 AM, Muggles wrote:
On 7/16/2015 3:25 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
snip

It's been really hot here the last couple of weeks and one of our window
AC's began acting up, so we went and bought a 2nd of those portable ac's
on wheels. It works really well, too.

I'll bite. How does the heat from the compressor get disposed of to the
outdoors if the a/cs are on wheels?

I was curious so I went to Amazon. From there, I went to Honeywell for
an owner's manual.

It has a 5" flexible hose and a flattened window nozzle with an adapter
to adjust to your window width. Amazon customers say you can leave your
screen in.

There doesn't seem to be a hose to bring in outside air to cool the
condenser. If it sucks hot, humid outside air into the room to replace
the exhaust air, it sounds like it wouldn't cool the room very well.

That's my general impression. What's the point
of dumping hot air out the hose in the back,
if the room needs to draw in replacement hot air?

I've heard the "on wheels" units also have a
condensate pan that needs to be dumped out, like
a dehumidifier.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 7/17/2015 7:30 PM, Rebel1 wrote:
On 7/17/2015 10:29 AM, Muggles wrote:
On 7/16/2015 3:25 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
snip

It's been really hot here the last couple of weeks and one of our window
AC's began acting up, so we went and bought a 2nd of those portable ac's
on wheels. It works really well, too.

I'll bite. How does the heat from the compressor get disposed of to the
outdoors if the a/cs are on wheels?


The refrigerant goes through the compressor,
picks up the heat. Then, the heat goes out
the vent tube. Out the window.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 7/18/2015 12:45 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/17/2015 7:30 PM, Rebel1 wrote:
On 7/17/2015 10:29 AM, Muggles wrote:
On 7/16/2015 3:25 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
snip

It's been really hot here the last couple of weeks and one of our window
AC's began acting up, so we went and bought a 2nd of those portable ac's
on wheels. It works really well, too.

I'll bite. How does the heat from the compressor get disposed of to the
outdoors if the a/cs are on wheels?


The refrigerant goes through the compressor,
picks up the heat. Then, the heat goes out
the vent tube. Out the window.


That's it!

--
Maggie