Just curious.. In many houses I've owned I've added electrical outlets
by tapping into the electric that comes into the box where the light
switch is. Usually I put the added electric outlet down by the floor
like most outlets are. Is tapping into the lighting circuit to add
outlets any sort of code violation? The only thing I can think is
that it obviously adds more potential draw to the lighting circuit but
it's still protected by it's breaker so other then the lights going
off if the breaker trips it doesn't matter. Does the code prohibit
mixing lights and outlets on the same circuit or anything? I've had
old houses that actually had a plug as a factory part of the light
fixture over the sink.

On 05/14/2015 03:44 PM, Ashton Crusher wrote:
Just curious.. In many houses I've owned I've added electrical outlets
by tapping into the electric that comes into the box where the light
switch is. Usually I put the added electric outlet down by the floor
like most outlets are. Is tapping into the lighting circuit to add
outlets any sort of code violation? The only thing I can think is
that it obviously adds more potential draw to the lighting circuit but
it's still protected by it's breaker so other then the lights going
off if the breaker trips it doesn't matter. Does the code prohibit
mixing lights and outlets on the same circuit or anything? I've had
old houses that actually had a plug as a factory part of the light
fixture over the sink.


I don't know but I'd guess that if a new outlet was installed in a bedroom,
the receptacle would have to be on an arc fault breaker.

Just don't use a high power vibrator on that circuit. That's a Federal
violation!

On Thursday, May 14, 2015 at 4:27:44 PM UTC-4, Mayhem wrote:
On 05/14/2015 03:44 PM, Ashton Crusher wrote:
Just curious.. In many houses I've owned I've added electrical outlets
by tapping into the electric that comes into the box where the light
switch is. Usually I put the added electric outlet down by the floor
like most outlets are. Is tapping into the lighting circuit to add
outlets any sort of code violation? The only thing I can think is
that it obviously adds more potential draw to the lighting circuit but
it's still protected by it's breaker so other then the lights going
off if the breaker trips it doesn't matter. Does the code prohibit
mixing lights and outlets on the same circuit or anything? I've had
old houses that actually had a plug as a factory part of the light
fixture over the sink.


I don't know but I'd guess that if a new outlet was installed in a bedroom,
the receptacle would have to be on an arc fault breaker.

its a bad idea, since a tripped breaker will turn out the lights. so current code keeps them seperated......

On Thursday, May 14, 2015 at 4:38:22 PM UTC-4, bob haller wrote:
On Thursday, May 14, 2015 at 4:27:44 PM UTC-4, Mayhem wrote:
On 05/14/2015 03:44 PM, Ashton Crusher wrote:
Just curious.. In many houses I've owned I've added electrical outlets
by tapping into the electric that comes into the box where the light
switch is. Usually I put the added electric outlet down by the floor
like most outlets are. Is tapping into the lighting circuit to add
outlets any sort of code violation? The only thing I can think is
that it obviously adds more potential draw to the lighting circuit but
it's still protected by it's breaker so other then the lights going
off if the breaker trips it doesn't matter. Does the code prohibit
mixing lights and outlets on the same circuit or anything? I've had
old houses that actually had a plug as a factory part of the light
fixture over the sink.


I don't know but I'd guess that if a new outlet was installed in a bedroom,
the receptacle would have to be on an arc fault breaker.

its a bad idea, since a tripped breaker will turn out the lights. so current code keeps them seperated......

AFAIK, there is no code requirement to keep receptacles on a
separate circuit from lights. And Ashton could tap into a
light circuit for an additional outlet. As M pointed out,
if it's being added in an area that now requires, AFCI, GFCI, etc
then those issues are supposed to be dealt with, but
that's a different subject.

On Thu, 14 May 2015 15:25:26 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Thursday, May 14, 2015 at 4:38:22 PM UTC-4, bob haller wrote:
On Thursday, May 14, 2015 at 4:27:44 PM UTC-4, Mayhem wrote:
On 05/14/2015 03:44 PM, Ashton Crusher wrote:
Just curious.. In many houses I've owned I've added electrical outlets
by tapping into the electric that comes into the box where the light
switch is. Usually I put the added electric outlet down by the floor
like most outlets are. Is tapping into the lighting circuit to add
outlets any sort of code violation? The only thing I can think is
that it obviously adds more potential draw to the lighting circuit but
it's still protected by it's breaker so other then the lights going
off if the breaker trips it doesn't matter. Does the code prohibit
mixing lights and outlets on the same circuit or anything? I've had
old houses that actually had a plug as a factory part of the light
fixture over the sink.


I don't know but I'd guess that if a new outlet was installed in a bedroom,
the receptacle would have to be on an arc fault breaker.

its a bad idea, since a tripped breaker will turn out the lights. so current code keeps them seperated......

AFAIK, there is no code requirement to keep receptacles on a
separate circuit from lights. And Ashton could tap into a
light circuit for an additional outlet. As M pointed out,
if it's being added in an area that now requires, AFCI, GFCI, etc
then those issues are supposed to be dealt with, but
that's a different subject.

I have usually used a GFI receptacle when I add them, always if in a
bathroom.

On Thu, 14 May 2015 16:27:40 -0400, Mayhem wrote:

On 05/14/2015 03:44 PM, Ashton Crusher wrote:
Just curious.. In many houses I've owned I've added electrical outlets
by tapping into the electric that comes into the box where the light
switch is. Usually I put the added electric outlet down by the floor
like most outlets are. Is tapping into the lighting circuit to add
outlets any sort of code violation? The only thing I can think is
that it obviously adds more potential draw to the lighting circuit but
it's still protected by it's breaker so other then the lights going
off if the breaker trips it doesn't matter. Does the code prohibit
mixing lights and outlets on the same circuit or anything? I've had
old houses that actually had a plug as a factory part of the light
fixture over the sink.


I don't know but I'd guess that if a new outlet was installed in a bedroom,
the receptacle would have to be on an arc fault breaker.
Don't know about thew US of A, but here in Canada lights and outlets
on the same circuit are commonplace BUT there is a limit to how many
loads can be on a circuit - can't remember offhand how many - but
regardless of the current draw, only "X" devices per circuit.

Also, tapping into the lighting circuit at the switch is NOT a
recommended practice. Better to daisy chain off an existing outlet -
but even then it is important to know how the circuit is wired.

On Thu, 14 May 2015 13:38:17 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

On Thursday, May 14, 2015 at 4:27:44 PM UTC-4, Mayhem wrote:
On 05/14/2015 03:44 PM, Ashton Crusher wrote:
Just curious.. In many houses I've owned I've added electrical outlets
by tapping into the electric that comes into the box where the light
switch is. Usually I put the added electric outlet down by the floor
like most outlets are. Is tapping into the lighting circuit to add
outlets any sort of code violation? The only thing I can think is
that it obviously adds more potential draw to the lighting circuit but
it's still protected by it's breaker so other then the lights going
off if the breaker trips it doesn't matter. Does the code prohibit
mixing lights and outlets on the same circuit or anything? I've had
old houses that actually had a plug as a factory part of the light
fixture over the sink.


I don't know but I'd guess that if a new outlet was installed in a bedroom,
the receptacle would have to be on an arc fault breaker.

its a bad idea, since a tripped breaker will turn out the lights. so current code keeps them seperated......
Not sure about "current" code, but "normal practice" or "best
practices" a few years ago were lights and outlets "in a given room"
on separate circuits, but lights in one room and outlets in another
room could be on the same circuit.
Been a few years since I worked with my dad, an electrician - and
things DO change.

On 5/14/2015 4:38 PM, bob haller wrote:
On Thursday, May 14, 2015 at 4:27:44 PM UTC-4, Mayhem wrote:
On 05/14/2015 03:44 PM, Ashton Crusher wrote:
off if the breaker trips it doesn't matter. Does the code prohibit
mixing lights and outlets on the same circuit or anything? I've had
old houses that actually had a plug as a factory part of the light
fixture over the sink.


its a bad idea, since a tripped breaker will turn
out the lights. so current code keeps them
seperated......


I'd heard that maybe 30 years ago, they try to
keep the lights on separate circuit.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Thu, 14 May 2015 21:42:05 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 14 May 2015 12:44:21 -0700, Ashton Crusher
wrote:

Just curious.. In many houses I've owned I've added electrical outlets
by tapping into the electric that comes into the box where the light
switch is. Usually I put the added electric outlet down by the floor
like most outlets are. Is tapping into the lighting circuit to add
outlets any sort of code violation? The only thing I can think is
that it obviously adds more potential draw to the lighting circuit but
it's still protected by it's breaker so other then the lights going
off if the breaker trips it doesn't matter. Does the code prohibit
mixing lights and outlets on the same circuit or anything? I've had
old houses that actually had a plug as a factory part of the light
fixture over the sink.


There is no restriction to the number of outlets, receptacle or
otherwise on 15 and 20a circuits in general lighting areas. General
lighting means just that, the 15 and 20 amp circuits in the dwelling
and they can serve lights and receptacles. That changes a little in
the kitchen or in bathrooms. but I am guessing that is not what we are
talking about. The issue might be whether there is a neutral present.
If so, no sweat. The other issue will be box fill. Usually the boxes
tend to be full already so adding a circuit will overfill them.

In Canada there is a limit of 8 outlets on a 15 amp circuit. I believe
a maximum of 12 combined outlets and lights..
Ontario code allows lights, for sure.
Each individual light fixtu counts as 1
Ceiling fans: usually count as 3, 1.5 for lights & 1.5 for fan.
Range hoods: count as 2
General purpose receptacles, hallway, living rooms etc: count as 1
Home theater, computer areas: if its a dedicated area, put it on its
own cct.
Garages and outside receptacles: don't go more than 2 per cct,
Sumps: Usually by themselves, but do yourself a favor and put 1
regularly used light on with it (hallway,entry etc) that way if it
does trip you'll know sooner rather than wetter.

Kitchens, bedrooms and bathrooms have their own rules which you'd have
to follow.

Ashton Crusher wrote:
Just curious.. In many houses I've owned I've added electrical outlets
by tapping into the electric that comes into the box where the light
switch is.

You have neutrals in your switch boxes in addition to the hot?

"dadiOH" wrote:

You have neutrals in your switch boxes in addition to the hot?

For newer construction in the US, that is standard. In other countries (like the
UK) it isn't.

around here 14 gauge romex outer jacket is one color, and can only be put on a 15 amp breaker. normally used for lightng only.

12 gauge has a different color, 20 amp max

On Fri, 15 May 2015 05:01:12 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

around here 14 gauge romex outer jacket is one color, and can only be put on a 15 amp breaker. normally used for lightng only.

12 gauge has a different color, 20 amp max
coloured jacket not required by code though -----

On Fri, 15 May 2015 07:14:21 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Ashton Crusher wrote:
Just curious.. In many houses I've owned I've added electrical outlets
by tapping into the electric that comes into the box where the light
switch is.

You have neutrals in your switch boxes in addition to the hot?


Yes. I don't think I've ever seen a house out here without at least
neutrals connecting teh medal boxes. For those I added a pigtail from
the box to the new 3 prong outlet. But even seeing them was over 30
years ago when 2 prong outlets were still common.

On Fri, 15 May 2015 16:27:29 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 15 May 2015 11:51:11 -0700, Ashton Crusher
wrote:

On Fri, 15 May 2015 07:14:21 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Ashton Crusher wrote:
Just curious.. In many houses I've owned I've added electrical outlets
by tapping into the electric that comes into the box where the light
switch is.

You have neutrals in your switch boxes in addition to the hot?


Yes. I don't think I've ever seen a house out here without at least
neutrals connecting teh medal boxes. For those I added a pigtail from
the box to the new 3 prong outlet. But even seeing them was over 30
years ago when 2 prong outlets were still common.

That is the ground, not the neutral and you are creating a serious
hazard using it for the neutral. (250.6)
Don't think I've seen the Crusher propose anything on newsgroups that
wasn't either dangerous, illegal, stupid, or at least 2 out of the
three.

On Fri, 15 May 2015 16:27:29 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 15 May 2015 11:51:11 -0700, Ashton Crusher
wrote:

On Fri, 15 May 2015 07:14:21 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Ashton Crusher wrote:
Just curious.. In many houses I've owned I've added electrical outlets
by tapping into the electric that comes into the box where the light
switch is.

You have neutrals in your switch boxes in addition to the hot?


Yes. I don't think I've ever seen a house out here without at least
neutrals connecting teh medal boxes. For those I added a pigtail from
the box to the new 3 prong outlet. But even seeing them was over 30
years ago when 2 prong outlets were still common.

That is the ground, not the neutral and you are creating a serious
hazard using it for the neutral. (250.6)

Maybe I miss understood the intent of the original question. The
power into the box is a black and white wire with ground. The white
is Neutral, the black is hot and the bare copper is ground. The
question that was asked was whether there were " neutrals in the box
in addition to the hot". I assumed, and perhaps should not have, that
the question being asked was not really about the neutral wire but
about the ground wire since common old wiring in the houses I've had
sometimes only provided the neutral and hot but often did not provide
any ground connection all the way to the plug, only to the metal
box... so that was the context of my answer.

So to your statement, no, that is not correct, I am not using the
ground as a neutral, I'm using the "white and black" (neutral and hot)
for the power and using the ground for the ground.

On Fri, 15 May 2015 16:46:28 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 15 May 2015 16:27:29 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 15 May 2015 11:51:11 -0700, Ashton Crusher
wrote:

On Fri, 15 May 2015 07:14:21 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Ashton Crusher wrote:
Just curious.. In many houses I've owned I've added electrical outlets
by tapping into the electric that comes into the box where the light
switch is.

You have neutrals in your switch boxes in addition to the hot?


Yes. I don't think I've ever seen a house out here without at least
neutrals connecting teh medal boxes. For those I added a pigtail from
the box to the new 3 prong outlet. But even seeing them was over 30
years ago when 2 prong outlets were still common.

That is the ground, not the neutral and you are creating a serious
hazard using it for the neutral. (250.6)
Don't think I've seen the Crusher propose anything on newsgroups that
wasn't either dangerous, illegal, stupid, or at least 2 out of the
three.

If leaving insults makes you feel better about yourself you've found
the right place here in newsgroups. Knock yourself out and show us
what a great personality you have.

On Thu, 14 May 2015 21:00:24 -0400, wrote:

Not sure about "current" code, but "normal practice" or "best
practices" a few years ago were lights and outlets "in a given room"
on separate circuits,

I think our house built in 1939 was like that, and even as a child I saw
the advantage of having either the desk lamp or the ceiling light still
working when a fuse blew.

Or maybe it was the house built in 1952

Of course they ruined this by not putting ceiling lights in bedrooms
anymore.

?but lights in one room and outlets in another
room could be on the same circuit.
Been a few years since I worked with my dad, an electrician - and
things DO change.

Ashton Crusher wrote:

Maybe I miss understood the intent of the original question. The
power into the box is a black and white wire with ground. The white
is Neutral, the black is hot and the bare copper is ground. The
question that was asked was whether there were " neutrals in the box
in addition to the hot".

In the US, common wiring for a light switch to a light is:


-------Hot(B)------------/ --------------|
|
-------Neutral(W)-----+----------------| Light
|
------Ground(C/G)---------------------|


Where the / represents a switch, and the + represents a wirenut in the switch
box and the neutral is brought through the switch box to the light. The origin
of the circuit is the circuit breaker box, or daisy chained off another switch
box.

In the UK, the neutral is not brought through the switch box. Instead, the
lighting circuit is run as a loop from the circuit breaker box. Only the hot and
ground are brought to the switch and then to the light. The neutral goes from
the light back to the loop lighting circuit where the hot was taken off.

The OPs question about neutrals being in the (light switch) box was perfectly
reasonable. Usenet is a global medium. Assuming every post originates from a US
point of view is... misguided.

On 5/15/2015 8:01 AM, bob haller wrote:
around here 14 gauge romex outer jacket is one color, and can only be put on a 15 amp breaker. normally used for lightng only.

12 gauge has a different color, 20 amp max


If memory is working, 14 gage is yellow, 12 gage is white, and 10 gage
is orange.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Saturday, May 16, 2015 at 12:10:51 AM UTC-4, Arthur Conan Doyle wrote:
Ashton Crusher wrote:

Maybe I miss understood the intent of the original question. The
power into the box is a black and white wire with ground. The white
is Neutral, the black is hot and the bare copper is ground. The
question that was asked was whether there were " neutrals in the box
in addition to the hot".

In the US, common wiring for a light switch to a light is:


-------Hot(B)------------/ --------------|
|
-------Neutral(W)-----+----------------| Light
|
------Ground(C/G)---------------------|


Where the / represents a switch, and the + represents a wirenut in the switch
box and the neutral is brought through the switch box to the light. The origin
of the circuit is the circuit breaker box, or daisy chained off another switch
box.

In the UK, the neutral is not brought through the switch box. Instead, the
lighting circuit is run as a loop from the circuit breaker box. Only the hot and
ground are brought to the switch and then to the light. The neutral goes from
the light back to the loop lighting circuit where the hot was taken off.

The OPs question about neutrals being in the (light switch) box was perfectly
reasonable. Usenet is a global medium. Assuming every post originates from a US
point of view is... misguided.

From what I've read, the OP's question was whether or not it was
permitted by code to add a receptacle by tying it in at an existing light switch......

Ashton Crusher wrote:

Maybe I miss understood the intent of the original question. The
power into the box is a black and white wire with ground. The white
is Neutral, the black is hot and the bare copper is ground. The
question that was asked was whether there were " neutrals in the box
in addition to the hot".

Yes, that was my question. I asked it because I don't recall seeing
neutrals in a switch box. No reason there couldn't be - and I am no
electrician - but more common in my experience is neutral (white) to load,
hot (black) to switch, return to load (the return is physically white but
functionally black and generally marked as such). Of course, all my
switches are single pole, not double.

On Saturday, May 16, 2015 at 7:38:52 AM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
Ashton Crusher wrote:

Maybe I miss understood the intent of the original question. The
power into the box is a black and white wire with ground. The white
is Neutral, the black is hot and the bare copper is ground. The
question that was asked was whether there were " neutrals in the box
in addition to the hot".

Yes, that was my question. I asked it because I don't recall seeing
neutrals in a switch box. No reason there couldn't be - and I am no
electrician - but more common in my experience is neutral (white) to load,
hot (black) to switch, return to load (the return is physically white but
functionally black and generally marked as such). Of course, all my
switches are single pole, not double.

The wiring style may depend on the area of the country, IDK.
Here in NJ it's very typical to see neutrals in many of the switch
boxes, but definitely not all. Of course all that matters is
whether you have it in the one where you want to add the receptacle.
And code now requires a neutral in switch boxes. I think the issue
there is electronics is going into more switches, dimmers, etc
where it's advantageous to have the electronics powered all the
time. X10 switches, the problems trying to use them with CFL, LED,
etc are an example.

On Sat, 16 May 2015 07:38:43 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Ashton Crusher wrote:

Maybe I miss understood the intent of the original question. The
power into the box is a black and white wire with ground. The white
is Neutral, the black is hot and the bare copper is ground. The
question that was asked was whether there were " neutrals in the box
in addition to the hot".

Yes, that was my question. I asked it because I don't recall seeing
neutrals in a switch box. No reason there couldn't be - and I am no
electrician - but more common in my experience is neutral (white) to load,
hot (black) to switch, return to load (the return is physically white but
functionally black and generally marked as such). Of course, all my
switches are single pole, not double.


Depends whether the lights are wired "drop switched" or "supply
switched"

Drop switched has been the most common over the years, but regualatory
changes are making supply switched more common - Supply switched makes
a whole lot more sense and is a lot easier towork on down the road.
Supply switched has 2 wire from the panel to the switch, where the
white wire is wire nutted and the black is switched, feeding off to
the lights.

This means when the switch is off the entire lighting (load) circuit
is dead. With drop switched circuits, the wire comes from the panel to
the light, then the neutral is dropped to the switch and returned to
the light, so when the switch is off the load is still live, and the
neutral is also live at the switch when it is turned on.

In ,
Stormin Mormon typed:
On 5/15/2015 8:01 AM, bob haller wrote:
around here 14 gauge romex outer jacket is one color, and can only
be put on a 15 amp breaker. normally used for lightng only. 12 gauge has
a different color, 20 amp max


If memory is working, 14 gage is yellow, 12 gage is white, and 10 gage
is orange.

Not in the USA. If you mean NM, 12/2 is yellow. 16/2 is white.

I don't recall seeing neutrals in a switch box. No reason there
couldn't be - and I am no electrician - but more common in my
experience is neutral (white) to load, hot (black) to switch,
return to load (the return is physically white but functionally
black and generally marked as such).

It depends on how the fixture and switch are wired.

If the power from the panel goes to the fixture first, you can have a cable
running from the fixture to the switch. In that case, the white and black
wires are "both" hot wires. Power comes into the fixture box, down one of
the wires to the switch, then up the other wire back to the fixture. In
this situation the white wire is supposed to be marked black so it is not
confused as a neutral wire. One way to identify this wiring scheme is if
there is only a single cable coming into the switch box.

The better way to wire a switch is to have the power come from the panel to
the switch box. Then another cable runs from the switch box to the fixture.
The grounds are connected in the switch box, and the neutrals (white) are
connected in the switch box. The switch connects between the two hot
(black) wires. This gives you more options such as adding another light to
the switch, or tapping off the supply line for an outlet. Many timers and
other lighting gadgets also require a neutral in the switch box.

The method used typically depends on the logistics of the building. If the
panel and switch are located on opposite sides of the switch, it is common
to have power going to the fixture first. If the switch is located between
the panel and the fixture, the power typically goes to the switch first.

Personally, I like to spend a few extra dollars on wire and run power to
the switch first, then a cable back to the fixture. Alternatively, I use
14/3 cable between the fixture and switch. That lets me continue the hot
and neutral cables to the switch and make the red wire the switched return
back to the fixture.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

In ,
Ashton Crusher typed:
On Fri, 15 May 2015 16:27:29 -0400, wrote:

Maybe I miss understood the intent of the original question. The
power into the box is a black and white wire with ground. The white
is Neutral, the black is hot and the bare copper is ground. The
question that was asked was whether there were " neutrals in the box
in addition to the hot". . . . '

Your original question was about tapping into a switch box and creating an
additional outlet/receptacle below or near that switch box. Part of that
question was whether that is permissible under the electrical code (I assume
in the USA). That code question was answered.

But, the other question was whether the switch box has a "neutral" wire in
it. That's not the same as asking if the switch box has a black wire and a
white wire (and a ground).

If the power goes to the switch box, with a black "hot" wire and a white
"neutral" wire, you can use those two to run an outlet/receptacle from that
switch box.

But, some switch boxes have a black wire and a white wire in them, but the
white wire is not a neutral. That can happen when the switch box is what is
called a "switch leg". By that, I mean that the power actually goes to the
light fixture (not to the switch box) first and then a black and white wire
are run from the light fixture down to the switch box to create what is
called a "switch leg". Try Googling "switch leg". In that scenario, the
black wire is connected to one side of the switch and the white wire is
connected to the other side of the switch. The white wire is supposed to be
marked or coded with tape or a black marker to indicate that both the black
and the white wires in the switch box are the "hot" wire, and the switch is
just interrupting the hot wire to turn the light off and on.

But, if only black wires are going to the two screws on the switch, and the
white wire passes through the switch box without being connected to the
switch, that means you do have a hot (black) wire and a neutral (white) wire
in the switch box. Or, to put it another way, the power goes to the switch
box first, and then to the light etc. In that case, you would have the
wires that you need to run an outlet/receptacle from the switch box.

In ,
TomR typed:
In ,
Stormin Mormon typed:
On 5/15/2015 8:01 AM, bob haller wrote:
around here 14 gauge romex outer jacket is one color, and can only
be put on a 15 amp breaker. normally used for lightng only. 12
gauge has a different color, 20 amp max


If memory is working, 14 gage is yellow, 12 gage is white, and 10
gage is orange.

Not in the USA. If you mean NM, 12/2 is yellow. 16/2 is white.

Oops, I meant to write:

If you mean NM cable, 12/2 is yellow. 14/2 (not 16/2) is white.
http://www.electriciantalk.com/f2/ro...olor-codes-49/

On 5/16/2015 12:42 PM, TomR wrote:
In ,
Stormin Mormon typed:
be put on a 15 amp breaker. normally used for lightng only. 12 gauge has
a different color, 20 amp max


If memory is working, 14 gage is yellow, 12 gage is white, and 10 gage
is orange.

Not in the USA. If you mean NM, 12/2 is yellow. 16/2 is white.



I was thinking Romex. Wish the various types
of wires had same colors for us in the real
world.


-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Sat, 16 May 2015 16:43:14 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 5/16/2015 12:42 PM, TomR wrote:
In ,
Stormin Mormon typed:
be put on a 15 amp breaker. normally used for lightng only. 12 gauge has
a different color, 20 amp max


If memory is working, 14 gage is yellow, 12 gage is white, and 10 gage
is orange.

Not in the USA. If you mean NM, 12/2 is yellow. 16/2 is white.



I was thinking Romex. Wish the various types
of wires had same colors for us in the real
world.


-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
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Romex IS NM - NM means Non Metallic. Used to be NMW and NMD for non
metallic wet and non metallic dry..

Current product is NMD90 (90C temperature rated)
NMWU is direct burial cable. Loomex (Noramco) is a term replacing
Romex (Southwire) in many areas - and there is a red sheithed Loomex
called Heatex for use in 240 volt electric heating applications that
is NMD90 2 wire with black and red conductors plus bare ground - no
neutral. - referred to as Heatex. Commonly the NMD is white, the NMW
is black and the Heatex is red. Other companies have different colour
coding.

One "standard" is white for 14, yellow for 12, orange for 10, and
black for 6 and 8, and gray for NMWU direct burial.

Blue #14 is used in Ontario for Arc-Fault protected circuits.
Red 14/2 and 12/2 is used in Canada for heating circuits (used to be
Orange back before 2001 when "xtra-colour" Romex hit the market from
Southern Cable in Canada

So - DO NOT assume just because a wire is white, or black, or orange,
it is a particular guage of wire!!!!

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
On 5/16/2015 12:42 PM, TomR wrote:
In ,
Stormin Mormon typed:
be put on a 15 amp breaker. normally used for lightng only. 12 gauge
has
a different color, 20 amp max

If memory is working, 14 gage is yellow, 12 gage is white, and 10 gage
is orange.

Not in the USA. If you mean NM, 12/2 is yellow. 16/2 is white.

I was thinking Romex. Wish the various types
of wires had same colors for us in the real
world.

Romex is a brand of NM-B wire. For the Romex brand, the color codes are the
same: 12/2 is yellow; 14/2 is white. Same as it says he
http://www.electriciantalk.com/f2/ro...olor-codes-49/

On Sat, 16 May 2015 07:38:43 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Ashton Crusher wrote:

Maybe I miss understood the intent of the original question. The
power into the box is a black and white wire with ground. The white
is Neutral, the black is hot and the bare copper is ground. The
question that was asked was whether there were " neutrals in the box
in addition to the hot".

Yes, that was my question. I asked it because I don't recall seeing
neutrals in a switch box. No reason there couldn't be - and I am no
electrician - but more common in my experience is neutral (white) to load,
hot (black) to switch, return to load (the return is physically white but
functionally black and generally marked as such). Of course, all my
switches are single pole, not double.



Yes, I've seen them like that. For my addition of an outlet I can
only do it when the box with the light switch is also where the
14-2w/grd wiring was run as the power source for the lighting circuit.
As such it could be thought of as a junction box as well as the light
switch box.

posted for all of us...


I would cite the article but I am 12,000 miles
from my code books.


And you didn't take me with you?

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*