I don't recall seeing neutrals in a switch box. No reason there
couldn't be - and I am no electrician - but more common in my
experience is neutral (white) to load, hot (black) to switch,
return to load (the return is physically white but functionally
black and generally marked as such).

It depends on how the fixture and switch are wired.

If the power from the panel goes to the fixture first, you can have a cable
running from the fixture to the switch. In that case, the white and black
wires are "both" hot wires. Power comes into the fixture box, down one of
the wires to the switch, then up the other wire back to the fixture. In
this situation the white wire is supposed to be marked black so it is not
confused as a neutral wire. One way to identify this wiring scheme is if
there is only a single cable coming into the switch box.

The better way to wire a switch is to have the power come from the panel to
the switch box. Then another cable runs from the switch box to the fixture.
The grounds are connected in the switch box, and the neutrals (white) are
connected in the switch box. The switch connects between the two hot
(black) wires. This gives you more options such as adding another light to
the switch, or tapping off the supply line for an outlet. Many timers and
other lighting gadgets also require a neutral in the switch box.

The method used typically depends on the logistics of the building. If the
panel and switch are located on opposite sides of the switch, it is common
to have power going to the fixture first. If the switch is located between
the panel and the fixture, the power typically goes to the switch first.

Personally, I like to spend a few extra dollars on wire and run power to
the switch first, then a cable back to the fixture. Alternatively, I use
14/3 cable between the fixture and switch. That lets me continue the hot
and neutral cables to the switch and make the red wire the switched return
back to the fixture.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com