I have a Scotts 229630x8A mower with OVRM 120 engine.

Bought it used, so unknown history.
Was difficult to start first season, but worked.

Now, it's extremely difficult to start, but runs fine if you
get it started.
If I shoot it with starting fluid, it fires once or twice.
Does backfire thru the carb a little, that's why I checked for
the sheared key.

If I can get to the priming pump fast enough, I can sometimes
get it to run. Runs fine afterward. Starts first pull when hot.
Back to not starting when cold.

Symptoms point to not getting enough gas.

Has spark. New plug. Fresh gas. New air filter.
I've rebuilt the series 8 carburetor twice.
Yes, I put in the float valve seat the right way.
Checked valve adjustment.
Took off the flywheel nut to verify the key is not sheared.

I haven't checked compression...this is the first OHV
lawnmower engine I've tried to fix. The compression release
probably affects the compression measurement anyway????
I don't know what to expect.

I like this mower because it mulches the grass very well.
I'd like to make it run.

Suggestions?

On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 5:51:00 PM UTC-5, mike wrote:
I have a Scotts 229630x8A mower with OVRM 120 engine.

Bought it used, so unknown history.
Was difficult to start first season, but worked.

Now, it's extremely difficult to start, but runs fine if you
get it started.
If I shoot it with starting fluid, it fires once or twice.
Does backfire thru the carb a little, that's why I checked for
the sheared key.

If I can get to the priming pump fast enough, I can sometimes
get it to run. Runs fine afterward. Starts first pull when hot.
Back to not starting when cold.

Symptoms point to not getting enough gas.

Has spark. New plug. Fresh gas. New air filter.
I've rebuilt the series 8 carburetor twice.
Yes, I put in the float valve seat the right way.
Checked valve adjustment.
Took off the flywheel nut to verify the key is not sheared.

I haven't checked compression...this is the first OHV
lawnmower engine I've tried to fix. The compression release
probably affects the compression measurement anyway????
I don't know what to expect.

I like this mower because it mulches the grass very well.
I'd like to make it run.

Suggestions?

It is fairly common to have the wrong key..."Scotts" doesn't tell us the motor brand? There is one on Youtube and it's a Tecum**** motor...you might have to get the model and serial and make sure you have the right key for the fly.

mike wrote:
I have a Scotts 229630x8A mower with OVRM 120 engine.

Bought it used, so unknown history.
Was difficult to start first season, but worked.

Now, it's extremely difficult to start, but runs fine if you
get it started.
If I shoot it with starting fluid, it fires once or twice.
Does backfire thru the carb a little, that's why I checked for
the sheared key.

If I can get to the priming pump fast enough, I can sometimes
get it to run. Runs fine afterward. Starts first pull when hot.
Back to not starting when cold.

Symptoms point to not getting enough gas.

Has spark. New plug. Fresh gas. New air filter.
I've rebuilt the series 8 carburetor twice.
Yes, I put in the float valve seat the right way.
Checked valve adjustment.
Took off the flywheel nut to verify the key is not sheared.

I haven't checked compression...this is the first OHV
lawnmower engine I've tried to fix. The compression release
probably affects the compression measurement anyway????
I don't know what to expect.

I like this mower because it mulches the grass very well.
I'd like to make it run.

Suggestions?

Sounds like fuel delivery problem to me. carb. or fule passage.
I just plug up the spark plug hole with chewed up paper ball and
if it pops when I pull the cord. That is good for me for compression.
I have an old John Deere mower, first start at the start of season
it takes about 10 pulls to start. after that 3,4 pull starts it
always. To store it at the end of season I run the engine until
fuel tank goes empty.

On 5/10/2015 6:50 PM, mike wrote:
I have a Scotts 229630x8A mower with OVRM 120 engine.

Bought it used, so unknown history.
Was difficult to start first season, but worked.

Now, it's extremely difficult to start, but runs fine if you
get it started.
If I shoot it with starting fluid, it fires once or twice.
Does backfire thru the carb a little, that's why I checked for
the sheared key.

If I can get to the priming pump fast enough, I can sometimes
get it to run. Runs fine afterward. Starts first pull when hot.
Back to not starting when cold.

Symptoms point to not getting enough gas.

Has spark. New plug. Fresh gas. New air filter.
I've rebuilt the series 8 carburetor twice.
Yes, I put in the float valve seat the right way.
Checked valve adjustment.
Took off the flywheel nut to verify the key is not sheared.

I haven't checked compression...this is the first OHV
lawnmower engine I've tried to fix. The compression release
probably affects the compression measurement anyway????
I don't know what to expect.

I like this mower because it mulches the grass very well.
I'd like to make it run.

Suggestions?


My first two thoughts are leaky intake valve, and bad
carb to engine gasket. Possibly also choke not closing.
Well, that makes three.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 7:02:07 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

My first two thoughts are leaky intake valve, and bad
carb to engine gasket. Possibly also choke not closing.

It doesn't have a choke, it has a primer...and you always say a leaky cab gasket. I've never seen that...I'm sure it does happen, but not as often as you think.
Tecumseh Engine Model: OVRM120 FAMILY: YTPXS.1951AA Displacment: 195

On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 8:15:06 PM UTC-4, bob_villa wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 7:02:07 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

My first two thoughts are leaky intake valve, and bad
carb to engine gasket. Possibly also choke not closing.

It doesn't have a choke, it has a primer...and you always say a leaky cab gasket. I've never seen that...I'm sure it does happen, but not as often as you think.
Tecumseh Engine Model: OVRM120 FAMILY: YTPXS.1951AA Displacment: 195

Does the priming bulb inject fuel into the carb throat when it's pushed?

On Sun, 10 May 2015 17:23:06 -0600, Tony Hwang
wrote:

mike wrote:
I have a Scotts 229630x8A mower with OVRM 120 engine.

Bought it used, so unknown history.
Was difficult to start first season, but worked.

Now, it's extremely difficult to start, but runs fine if you
get it started.
If I shoot it with starting fluid, it fires once or twice.
Does backfire thru the carb a little, that's why I checked for
the sheared key.

If I can get to the priming pump fast enough, I can sometimes
get it to run. Runs fine afterward. Starts first pull when hot.
Back to not starting when cold.

Symptoms point to not getting enough gas.

Has spark. New plug. Fresh gas. New air filter.
I've rebuilt the series 8 carburetor twice.
Yes, I put in the float valve seat the right way.
Checked valve adjustment.
Took off the flywheel nut to verify the key is not sheared.

I haven't checked compression...this is the first OHV
lawnmower engine I've tried to fix. The compression release
probably affects the compression measurement anyway????
I don't know what to expect.

I like this mower because it mulches the grass very well.
I'd like to make it run.

Suggestions?

Sounds like fuel delivery problem to me. carb. or fule passage.
I just plug up the spark plug hole with chewed up paper ball and
if it pops when I pull the cord. That is good for me for compression.
I have an old John Deere mower, first start at the start of season
it takes about 10 pulls to start. after that 3,4 pull starts it
always. To store it at the end of season I run the engine until
fuel tank goes empty.
Dose the fuel with sea foam to clear the carb and put in a new spark
plug. Run a tank full of fuel with heavy dose of sea foam.

If at all possible run ethanol free (here in Canada shell premium is
ethanol free)

On Sun, 10 May 2015 17:15:02 -0700 (PDT), bob_villa
wrote:

On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 7:02:07 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

My first two thoughts are leaky intake valve, and bad
carb to engine gasket. Possibly also choke not closing.

It doesn't have a choke, it has a primer...and you always say a leaky cab gasket. I've never seen that...I'm sure it does happen, but not as often as you think.
Tecumseh Engine Model: OVRM120 FAMILY: YTPXS.1951AA Displacment: 195






It's a non-adjustable carb - set on the lean side to start with for
emission reasons - leaned further by ethanol mix, and even more if any
gum has deposited in the jets.

On 5/10/2015 8:17 PM, trader_4 wrote:

Does the priming bulb inject fuel into the
carb throat when it's pushed?


Hope so. I've also seen more than one or two
cases of bad carb to engine gasket. The choke
closes, but there is so much blow by air, not
enough gas mix gets in.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 5/10/15 8:17 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 8:15:06 PM UTC-4, bob_villa wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 7:02:07 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

My first two thoughts are leaky intake valve, and bad
carb to engine gasket. Possibly also choke not closing.

It doesn't have a choke, it has a primer...and you always say a leaky cab gasket. I've never seen that...I'm sure it does happen, but not as often as you think.
Tecumseh Engine Model: OVRM120 FAMILY: YTPXS.1951AA Displacment: 195

Does the priming bulb inject fuel into the carb throat when it's pushed?

I've got a second-hand walk-behind with a Tecumseh engine. A decal or
the manual said to press the primer 3 times. I had to press it a lot
more. Then I learned that each time you press it, you're supposed to
hold it. I don't know how many seconds is recommended. I think that's
true of the OVRM120, too.

It still took more than 3 presses. I couldn't get the primer apart. In
the last year, after several years, it has improved. Maybe at some
point I put a little Sea Foam in the tank, and that cleaned it up. I
don't remember.

On 5/10/2015 5:17 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 8:15:06 PM UTC-4, bob_villa wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 7:02:07 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

My first two thoughts are leaky intake valve, and bad
carb to engine gasket. Possibly also choke not closing.

It doesn't have a choke, it has a primer...and you always say a leaky cab gasket. I've never seen that...I'm sure it does happen, but not as often as you think.
Tecumseh Engine Model: OVRM120 FAMILY: YTPXS.1951AA Displacment: 195

Does the priming bulb inject fuel into the carb throat when it's pushed?

yes.
That's how I get it running.
Prime it
Shot of starting fluid
Pull the cord a lot
If it kicks over, it will die quickly.
If I can run to the side and start pumping the priming bulb,
I can keep it running long enough to warm up...starts easy after that.

On 5/10/2015 10:03 PM, mike wrote:
On 5/10/2015 5:17 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 8:15:06 PM UTC-4, bob_villa wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 7:02:07 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

My first two thoughts are leaky intake valve, and bad
carb to engine gasket. Possibly also choke not closing.

It doesn't have a choke, it has a primer...and you always say a leaky
cab gasket. I've never seen that...I'm sure it does happen, but not
as often as you think.
Tecumseh Engine Model: OVRM120 FAMILY: YTPXS.1951AA Displacment: 195

Does the priming bulb inject fuel into the carb throat when it's pushed?

yes.
That's how I get it running.
Prime it
Shot of starting fluid
Pull the cord a lot
If it kicks over, it will die quickly.
If I can run to the side and start pumping the priming bulb,
I can keep it running long enough to warm up...starts easy after that.

How about crap in the gas tank. Not enough crud to block the fuel flow
completely, just enough sitting there to prevent the engine to run on
its own until your screwing around trying to start it dislodges enough
to get going.

Had that problem recently with a large mower. Would start up and then
die under load. Filter looked okay but only partially filled with
gasoline. Removed the intake to the fuel pump and there was just a
trickle of gas. Blew back into the line, heard it gurgle in one the
tank and then gas flowed freely. Worked fine after that due, I suspect,
to it bouncing along as I mowed.

As it's a Zero-Turn Bobcat, I'm not looking to pulling out the fuel
system from two saddle tanks but suspect that's what it'll take before
long.g

On 5/10/15 11:03 PM, mike wrote:
On 5/10/2015 5:17 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 8:15:06 PM UTC-4, bob_villa wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 7:02:07 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

My first two thoughts are leaky intake valve, and bad
carb to engine gasket. Possibly also choke not closing.

It doesn't have a choke, it has a primer...and you always say a leaky
cab gasket. I've never seen that...I'm sure it does happen, but not
as often as you think.
Tecumseh Engine Model: OVRM120 FAMILY: YTPXS.1951AA Displacment: 195

Does the priming bulb inject fuel into the carb throat when it's pushed?

yes.
That's how I get it running.
Prime it
Shot of starting fluid
Pull the cord a lot
If it kicks over, it will die quickly.
If I can run to the side and start pumping the priming bulb,
I can keep it running long enough to warm up...starts easy after that.

Each time you press the bulb, do you hold it several seconds?

Have you taken the primer apart?

"mike" wrote in message
...
Tecumseh Engine Model: OVRM120 FAMILY: YTPXS.1951AA Displacment: 195

Does the priming bulb inject fuel into the carb throat when it's pushed?

yes.
That's how I get it running.
Prime it
Shot of starting fluid
Pull the cord a lot
If it kicks over, it will die quickly.
If I can run to the side and start pumping the priming bulb,
I can keep it running long enough to warm up...starts easy after that.

Check out the 'bolt' that holds the float bowl on. I am thinking that
engine has a hole in the end and also a very small hole on the side. That
hole on the side is very small and hard to see, not the great big one near
one end.

On 5/10/2015 8:41 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"mike" wrote in message
...
Tecumseh Engine Model: OVRM120 FAMILY: YTPXS.1951AA Displacment: 195

Does the priming bulb inject fuel into the carb throat when it's pushed?

yes.
That's how I get it running.
Prime it
Shot of starting fluid
Pull the cord a lot
If it kicks over, it will die quickly.
If I can run to the side and start pumping the priming bulb,
I can keep it running long enough to warm up...starts easy after that.

Check out the 'bolt' that holds the float bowl on. I am thinking that
engine has a hole in the end and also a very small hole on the side. That
hole on the side is very small and hard to see, not the great big one near
one end.


Yep, I've read the manual and watched a zillion youtubes.
Got all the tiny holes I could find. Pumped a can of carb cleaner
thru it.
The gas tank is very clean inside as was the carburetor.

I've rebuilt a dozen auto carbs and motorcycle carbs over the years.
Never did find anything wrong with any of them, but they worked after
reassembly. Until now.

On 5/10/2015 8:28 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 5/10/15 11:03 PM, mike wrote:
On 5/10/2015 5:17 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 8:15:06 PM UTC-4, bob_villa wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 7:02:07 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

My first two thoughts are leaky intake valve, and bad
carb to engine gasket. Possibly also choke not closing.

It doesn't have a choke, it has a primer...and you always say a leaky
cab gasket. I've never seen that...I'm sure it does happen, but not
as often as you think.
Tecumseh Engine Model: OVRM120 FAMILY: YTPXS.1951AA Displacment: 195

Does the priming bulb inject fuel into the carb throat when it's pushed?

yes.
That's how I get it running.
Prime it
Shot of starting fluid
Pull the cord a lot
If it kicks over, it will die quickly.
If I can run to the side and start pumping the priming bulb,
I can keep it running long enough to warm up...starts easy after that.

Each time you press the bulb, do you hold it several seconds?
The consensus seemed to be that you push it FAST and about a dozen times.
I've tried every combination of number and speed and force that I can
think of.
Bulb appears to squirt gas out to the input side of the carburetor.

Have you taken the primer apart?
I didn't see the need and didn't expect I'd get it apart without damaging
the rubber part.

The primer seems to be what keeps it running early in the start process.

I didn't mention that I popped the cover and took out the idle jet and
cleaned all that stuff too.

This is all very frustrating because I can't come up with a rational
cause that fits the symptoms.

Only thing I haven't tried is to look at the valves.

If I stuck a compression gauge on it, what should I see at speeds
I can muster with the pull starter?
The compression release is a wild card with which I have zero
experience.

I'd take the bolt/jet that hold the bowl on the bottom of carb off
and let some gas run out till you are sure there is no fuel delivery
problem to that point. Be sure the cap is venting properly. I've been
finding a lot of water in mower gas tanks and carbs (including mine).
Like others said only 100% gasoline in the small engines. Adjust the
valves, it's not that hard to do. You should also be able to keep it
running by taking off the air cleaner and choking it a bit with you
finger to keep it running until it warms up. These things are like
playing amusical instrument. Stay after it.. check the cables and make
sure the safety brake isn't dragging. If you want to try it you might
try finding a jet/carb bolt with larger jetting or very and I mean very
very slightly make the jets a little bit bigger using a welding torch
cleaner although that isn't supposed to be done or needed. Best advice
I know is be sure to use only 100% gasoline. I once had a weird one,
the spark was jumping to ground because of a cracked coil, but it would
fire and almost run. Sometimes for whatever reason a good old spark plug
works better than a brand new one. Don't give up... just one more pull
on the rope and if the rope breaks... well fix that also.

On 5/10/2015 6:50 PM, mike wrote:
I haven't checked compression...this is the first OHV
lawnmower engine I've tried to fix. The compression release
probably affects the compression measurement anyway????
I don't know what to expect.

I like this mower because it mulches the grass very well.
I'd like to make it run.

Suggestions?


Used to have to crank the blade backwards
to check compression.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 5/11/15 6:33 AM, mike wrote:
On 5/10/2015 8:28 PM, J Burns wrote:
Each time you press the bulb, do you hold it several seconds?
The consensus seemed to be that you push it FAST and about a dozen times.
I've tried every combination of number and speed and force that I can
think of.
Mine is on a Craftsman mower, so I don't know the Tecumseh model number,
but the family is YTPXS.1951BA. That sounds pretty close to yours.

A decal on the engine simply says to press the bulb 3 times. I found
that even pressing it 10 times didn't do much. Then I read online that
I should hold it down. Now sometimes 3 is enough.

Bulb appears to squirt gas out to the input side of the carburetor.

I shined a light in my carburetor but didn't see any gas squirt. This
manual seems to say they all work about the same way. Online, I read
that the bulb pumps air, which picks up gas by venturi effect.

http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/ma...etormanual.pdf


Have you taken the primer apart?
I didn't see the need and didn't expect I'd get it apart without damaging
the rubber part.

The primer seems to be what keeps it running early in the start process.


Mine usually stalls in a few seconds. I press the bulb one more time,
holding it about 3 seconds. Then the engine will start and keep running.

The manual says if I remove the bulb, there are air passages I could
clean. Removing the bulb would destroy it. Sears' price is $9.75.

I guess my primer system doesn't work very well. Maybe it was designed
as a theft deterrent. If they see me trying to start my mower, they
won't steal it.

On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 5:34:00 AM UTC-5, mike wrote:
On 5/10/2015 8:28 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 5/10/15 11:03 PM, mike wrote:
On 5/10/2015 5:17 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 8:15:06 PM UTC-4, bob_villa wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 7:02:07 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

My first two thoughts are leaky intake valve, and bad
carb to engine gasket. Possibly also choke not closing.

It doesn't have a choke, it has a primer...and you always say a leaky
cab gasket. I've never seen that...I'm sure it does happen, but not
as often as you think.
Tecumseh Engine Model: OVRM120 FAMILY: YTPXS.1951AA Displacment: 195

Does the priming bulb inject fuel into the carb throat when it's pushed?

yes.
That's how I get it running.
Prime it
Shot of starting fluid
Pull the cord a lot
If it kicks over, it will die quickly.
If I can run to the side and start pumping the priming bulb,
I can keep it running long enough to warm up...starts easy after that.

Each time you press the bulb, do you hold it several seconds?
The consensus seemed to be that you push it FAST and about a dozen times.
I've tried every combination of number and speed and force that I can
think of.
Bulb appears to squirt gas out to the input side of the carburetor.

Have you taken the primer apart?
I didn't see the need and didn't expect I'd get it apart without damaging
the rubber part.

The primer seems to be what keeps it running early in the start process.

I didn't mention that I popped the cover and took out the idle jet and
cleaned all that stuff too.

This is all very frustrating because I can't come up with a rational
cause that fits the symptoms.

Only thing I haven't tried is to look at the valves.

If I stuck a compression gauge on it, what should I see at speeds
I can muster with the pull starter?
The compression release is a wild card with which I have zero
experience.

If it has a fly-key like this: http://thumbs1.picclick.com/d/l400/p...eh-Engines.jpg I would change it as a matter of course...it's not expensive.

On Mon, 11 May 2015 03:33:00 -0700, mike wrote:

On 5/10/2015 8:28 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 5/10/15 11:03 PM, mike wrote:
On 5/10/2015 5:17 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 8:15:06 PM UTC-4, bob_villa wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 7:02:07 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

My first two thoughts are leaky intake valve, and bad
carb to engine gasket. Possibly also choke not closing.

It doesn't have a choke, it has a primer...and you always say a leaky
cab gasket. I've never seen that...I'm sure it does happen, but not
as often as you think.
Tecumseh Engine Model: OVRM120 FAMILY: YTPXS.1951AA Displacment: 195

Does the priming bulb inject fuel into the carb throat when it's pushed?

yes.
That's how I get it running.
Prime it
Shot of starting fluid
Pull the cord a lot
If it kicks over, it will die quickly.
If I can run to the side and start pumping the priming bulb,
I can keep it running long enough to warm up...starts easy after that.

Each time you press the bulb, do you hold it several seconds?
The consensus seemed to be that you push it FAST and about a dozen times.
I've tried every combination of number and speed and force that I can
think of.
Bulb appears to squirt gas out to the input side of the carburetor.

Have you taken the primer apart?
I didn't see the need and didn't expect I'd get it apart without damaging
the rubber part.

The primer seems to be what keeps it running early in the start process.

I didn't mention that I popped the cover and took out the idle jet and
cleaned all that stuff too.

This is all very frustrating because I can't come up with a rational
cause that fits the symptoms.

Only thing I haven't tried is to look at the valves.

If I stuck a compression gauge on it, what should I see at speeds
I can muster with the pull starter?
The compression release is a wild card with which I have zero
experience.


You are looking for zebras or unicorns to explain the hoofbeats - much
more likely to be a pony or a horse - possibly an ox.

Pony or horse would be blocked carb or bad gas - Ox would be poor
ignition (bad plug?) or a loose carb (leaking base gasket). Bad ring
or other mechanical problem is at least a zebra - possibly aproaching
a Unicorn.

On Mon, 11 May 2015 08:14:16 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:


MIME-Version: 1.0
Pulling the engine backwards still works for checking compression -
it bypasses the compression release.

On Sun, 10 May 2015 15:50:01 -0700, mike wrote:

Took off the flywheel nut to verify the key is not sheared.

Generally that works. With the nut off it may not show a twisted key.
Spark, Air & Fuel will get it started. Unless you have mowed over
stumps, rocks, or a well pipe - the pin is not sheared.

On 5/11/2015 5:17 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 11 May 2015 17:09:21 -0400, J Burns
I figured the rubber was too far gone to seal, so I smeared white grease
on it. Now I need to write a note to myself not to press the bulb while
the engine is running because it will flood!

Finding the right replacement seal could be a hassle. An O ring could
probably work, but I'd need the right size. Anyone know something
better than white grease to seal a float bowl?
The proper float bowl ging "gasket" is readily available from any
good small engine shop for a couple of bucks.


My experience with Tecumseh carbs:

Hold the carb upside down, with the big
bolt facing up

Push the carb gasket around the float,
and set it in place around the shoulder

Gently work the float bowl onto the gasket

the "depression" in the float bowl lines up
with the hinge for the float

The big "bolt" might need a washer, some do.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 5/11/15 5:31 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 5/11/2015 5:17 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 11 May 2015 17:09:21 -0400, J Burns
I figured the rubber was too far gone to seal, so I smeared white grease
on it. Now I need to write a note to myself not to press the bulb while
the engine is running because it will flood!

Finding the right replacement seal could be a hassle. An O ring could
probably work, but I'd need the right size. Anyone know something
better than white grease to seal a float bowl?
The proper float bowl ging "gasket" is readily available from any
good small engine shop for a couple of bucks.


My experience with Tecumseh carbs:

Hold the carb upside down, with the big
bolt facing up

Push the carb gasket around the float,
and set it in place around the shoulder

Gently work the float bowl onto the gasket

the "depression" in the float bowl lines up
with the hinge for the float

The big "bolt" might need a washer, some do.

Chris, Clare,
Lots of Tecumseh float-bowl gaskets are available on Ebay, but no models
are listed. Does that mean they're all the same?

My bulb doesn't make bubbles in soapy water, but the rubber is cracked.
It's red, nonvented, and pinched like an hourglass. Ebay has several
that look just like it, but I can't tie any to the Sears model number of
my Tecumseh engine. That's why I thought it would be hard to get the
right gasket.

"J Burns" wrote in message
...
Lots of Tecumseh float-bowl gaskets are available on Ebay, but no models
are listed. Does that mean they're all the same?

My bulb doesn't make bubbles in soapy water, but the rubber is cracked.
It's red, nonvented, and pinched like an hourglass. Ebay has several that
look just like it, but I can't tie any to the Sears model number of my
Tecumseh engine. That's why I thought it would be hard to get the right
gasket.


They are probably several standard sizes. Just take the bowl to a small
engine repair or parts place and tell them the kind of engine it is for.
They may take the bowl to the parts draw and just match it up. That is what
I did when I needed a gasket for my generator engine. Also check for the
'bolt' gasket if you had one.

I learned may years ago to take the old part with me if I could. Went to a
parts place for a car water pump. There were 5 pumps that looked almost the
same. Just depended if the car had air, or some other option. The basic
casting was the same, but not all the holes were drilled and tapped.
Did not take the pump the first time, so had to make two trips.

On 5/11/2015 5:52 PM, J Burns wrote:
Chris, Clare,
Lots of Tecumseh float-bowl gaskets are available on Ebay, but no models
are listed. Does that mean they're all the same?

My bulb doesn't make bubbles in soapy water, but the rubber is cracked.
It's red, nonvented, and pinched like an hourglass. Ebay has several
that look just like it, but I can't tie any to the Sears model number of
my Tecumseh engine. That's why I thought it would be hard to get the
right gasket.


It's been a few years since I did much small engine
repair, but most likely yes, same.

Shears is usually good with exploded parts diagrams.
I've found Shears to use off spec parts. Can't use a
Tecumseh air filter on a Sears Tecumseh engine, for
example.


-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 5/11/15 6:05 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Shears is usually good with exploded parts

Aren't exploded parts already in pieces? Good tip, though. If the
gasket is too big, I'll snip a piece out.

On Mon, 11 May 2015 17:52:06 -0400, J Burns
wrote:

On 5/11/15 5:31 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 5/11/2015 5:17 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 11 May 2015 17:09:21 -0400, J Burns
I figured the rubber was too far gone to seal, so I smeared white grease
on it. Now I need to write a note to myself not to press the bulb while
the engine is running because it will flood!

Finding the right replacement seal could be a hassle. An O ring could
probably work, but I'd need the right size. Anyone know something
better than white grease to seal a float bowl?
The proper float bowl ging "gasket" is readily available from any
good small engine shop for a couple of bucks.


My experience with Tecumseh carbs:

Hold the carb upside down, with the big
bolt facing up

Push the carb gasket around the float,
and set it in place around the shoulder

Gently work the float bowl onto the gasket

the "depression" in the float bowl lines up
with the hinge for the float

The big "bolt" might need a washer, some do.

Chris, Clare,
Lots of Tecumseh float-bowl gaskets are available on Ebay, but no models
are listed. Does that mean they're all the same?

Remember what I wrote?
They are readily available at most LOCAL small engine repair shops.
Take the bloomin' float bowl to your local small engine shop and they
will fit you with the right part for the cost of the postage on an
e-bay purchase. Sheesh - you'd think we were talking something rare
and esoteric Give your business to your local shop - get excellent
service, and help keep local businesses viable.
My bulb doesn't make bubbles in soapy water, but the rubber is cracked.
It's red, nonvented, and pinched like an hourglass. Ebay has several
that look just like it, but I can't tie any to the Sears model number of
my Tecumseh engine. That's why I thought it would be hard to get the
right gasket.

On Mon, 11 May 2015 18:05:07 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 5/11/2015 5:52 PM, J Burns wrote:
Chris, Clare,
Lots of Tecumseh float-bowl gaskets are available on Ebay, but no models
are listed. Does that mean they're all the same?

My bulb doesn't make bubbles in soapy water, but the rubber is cracked.
It's red, nonvented, and pinched like an hourglass. Ebay has several
that look just like it, but I can't tie any to the Sears model number of
my Tecumseh engine. That's why I thought it would be hard to get the
right gasket.


It's been a few years since I did much small engine
repair, but most likely yes, same.

Shears is usually good with exploded parts diagrams.
I've found Shears to use off spec parts. Can't use a
Tecumseh air filter on a Sears Tecumseh engine, for
example.


That's because the sears engine is NOT a Tecumseh engine. It is a
"craftsman" or "eager 1" engine built for Sears BY Tecumseh.
-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

On Mon, 11 May 2015 18:42:17 -0400, J Burns
wrote:

On 5/11/15 6:05 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Shears is usually good with exploded parts

Aren't exploded parts already in pieces? Good tip, though. If the
gasket is too big, I'll snip a piece out.
And make it leak again----- What's wrong with buying the right part
locally??????

J Burns wrote:

Jackpot! There were heavy deposits on the rubber float-bowl seal and the
matching metal. Under the deposits, I found that the rubber had been
eaten up by termites. You'd think gasoline would have an additive to
kill termites!

I figured the rubber was too far gone to seal, so I smeared white grease
on it. Now I need to write a note to myself not to press the bulb while
the engine is running because it will flood!

Finding the right replacement seal could be a hassle. An O ring could
probably work, but I'd need the right size. Anyone know something
better than white grease to seal a float bowl?

Would the local auto parts store have some gasket material that you
could cut your own seal from?

On 5/11/2015 6:16 AM, J Burns wrote:
On 5/11/15 6:33 AM, mike wrote:
On 5/10/2015 8:28 PM, J Burns wrote:
Each time you press the bulb, do you hold it several seconds?
The consensus seemed to be that you push it FAST and about a dozen times.
I've tried every combination of number and speed and force that I can
think of.
Mine is on a Craftsman mower, so I don't know the Tecumseh model number,
but the family is YTPXS.1951BA. That sounds pretty close to yours.

A decal on the engine simply says to press the bulb 3 times. I found
that even pressing it 10 times didn't do much. Then I read online that
I should hold it down. Now sometimes 3 is enough.

Bulb appears to squirt gas out to the input side of the carburetor.

I shined a light in my carburetor but didn't see any gas squirt. This
manual seems to say they all work about the same way. Online, I read
that the bulb pumps air, which picks up gas by venturi effect.

http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/ma...etormanual.pdf

thanks for the link. It's way more comprehensive than the engine manual.
Looks like the carb is series 11 bridged.
Looks like I've cleaned all the passages except the ones under the
welch plug. But I can get carb cleaner thru that area.

I'll try the compression test tomorrow.

I really don't want to dump a lot of money into this thing.
I can buy a whole new carb on ebay for $17.50. I'd do it in an instant
if I was sure it would fix the thing.

One thing I noticed about the ebay carbs is that there's a plastic
tube that fits in the hole near the primer and pokes out the throaat
into the
air filter. Mine doesn't have that tube.
Something else to try.

Thanks for all the inputs.
mike

On 5/11/15 8:31 PM, wrote:

Remember what I wrote?
They are readily available at most LOCAL small engine repair shops.
Take the bloomin' float bowl to your local small engine shop and they
will fit you with the right part for the cost of the postage on an
e-bay purchase. Sheesh - you'd think we were talking something rare
and esoteric Give your business to your local shop - get excellent
service, and help keep local businesses viable.

All the local places are in far-off locations. Things are looking up.
There's a place on main street that sells beer now. I guess he won his
fight with the preacher next door. Beer, rubber bands, and pipe tobacco.

On 5/11/15 9:03 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
J Burns wrote:

Jackpot! There were heavy deposits on the rubber float-bowl seal and the
matching metal. Under the deposits, I found that the rubber had been
eaten up by termites. You'd think gasoline would have an additive to
kill termites!

I figured the rubber was too far gone to seal, so I smeared white grease
on it. Now I need to write a note to myself not to press the bulb while
the engine is running because it will flood!

Finding the right replacement seal could be a hassle. An O ring could
probably work, but I'd need the right size. Anyone know something
better than white grease to seal a float bowl?

Would the local auto parts store have some gasket material that you
could cut your own seal from?

Ordered it on ebay. $1.99 including shipping. Already shipped it. If
it turns out I have the wrong carburetor, I'll buy a carburetor to fit
the gasket!

I bought a used mower with similar symptoms and it had water in the
carburetor bowl. Drained it out and it ran great. Then it started
doing it again and I found more water in the bowl, must have come from
the tank. This happened a couple more times before all the water
seemed to finally be gone.


On Sun, 10 May 2015 15:50:01 -0700, mike wrote:

I have a Scotts 229630x8A mower with OVRM 120 engine.

Bought it used, so unknown history.
Was difficult to start first season, but worked.

Now, it's extremely difficult to start, but runs fine if you
get it started.
If I shoot it with starting fluid, it fires once or twice.
Does backfire thru the carb a little, that's why I checked for
the sheared key.

If I can get to the priming pump fast enough, I can sometimes
get it to run. Runs fine afterward. Starts first pull when hot.
Back to not starting when cold.

Symptoms point to not getting enough gas.

Has spark. New plug. Fresh gas. New air filter.
I've rebuilt the series 8 carburetor twice.
Yes, I put in the float valve seat the right way.
Checked valve adjustment.
Took off the flywheel nut to verify the key is not sheared.

I haven't checked compression...this is the first OHV
lawnmower engine I've tried to fix. The compression release
probably affects the compression measurement anyway????
I don't know what to expect.

I like this mower because it mulches the grass very well.
I'd like to make it run.

Suggestions?

On 5/11/15 9:44 PM, mike wrote:
On 5/11/2015 6:16 AM, J Burns wrote:
On 5/11/15 6:33 AM, mike wrote:
On 5/10/2015 8:28 PM, J Burns wrote:
Each time you press the bulb, do you hold it several seconds?
The consensus seemed to be that you push it FAST and about a dozen
times.
I've tried every combination of number and speed and force that I can
think of.
Mine is on a Craftsman mower, so I don't know the Tecumseh model number,
but the family is YTPXS.1951BA. That sounds pretty close to yours.

A decal on the engine simply says to press the bulb 3 times. I found
that even pressing it 10 times didn't do much. Then I read online that
I should hold it down. Now sometimes 3 is enough.

Bulb appears to squirt gas out to the input side of the carburetor.

I shined a light in my carburetor but didn't see any gas squirt. This
manual seems to say they all work about the same way. Online, I read
that the bulb pumps air, which picks up gas by venturi effect.

http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/ma...etormanual.pdf

thanks for the link. It's way more comprehensive than the engine manual.
Looks like the carb is series 11 bridged.
Looks like I've cleaned all the passages except the ones under the
welch plug. But I can get carb cleaner thru that area.

I'll try the compression test tomorrow.

I really don't want to dump a lot of money into this thing.
I can buy a whole new carb on ebay for $17.50. I'd do it in an instant
if I was sure it would fix the thing.

One thing I noticed about the ebay carbs is that there's a plastic
tube that fits in the hole near the primer and pokes out the throaat
into the
air filter. Mine doesn't have that tube.
Something else to try.

Thanks for all the inputs.
mike


Mine has that tube. Maybe that's the air inlet, and maybe your inlet is
a hole in the middle of the bulb.

My priming was weak, not much gas. I discovered that the float-bowl
gasket was cruddy. A little grease on the gasket gave me a lot more gas
when I pushed the bulb. So my float bowl has to hold air to prime. I've
ordered a gasket, $1.99.

A little grease on the gasket might improve your priming, too.

On 5/11/15 6:02 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"J Burns" wrote in message
...
Lots of Tecumseh float-bowl gaskets are available on Ebay, but no models
are listed. Does that mean they're all the same?

My bulb doesn't make bubbles in soapy water, but the rubber is cracked.
It's red, nonvented, and pinched like an hourglass. Ebay has several that
look just like it, but I can't tie any to the Sears model number of my
Tecumseh engine. That's why I thought it would be hard to get the right
gasket.


They are probably several standard sizes. Just take the bowl to a small
engine repair or parts place and tell them the kind of engine it is for.
They may take the bowl to the parts draw and just match it up. That is what
I did when I needed a gasket for my generator engine. Also check for the
'bolt' gasket if you had one.

I learned may years ago to take the old part with me if I could. Went to a
parts place for a car water pump. There were 5 pumps that looked almost the
same. Just depended if the car had air, or some other option. The basic
casting was the same, but not all the holes were drilled and tapped.
Did not take the pump the first time, so had to make two trips.


The local furniture store has plumbing supplies. I wanted to take in the
stuff I want to replace. I couldn't do it because he's out of pipe
cutters. The minimum order from his wholesaler is $2400, so he has to
wait.

On 5/11/2015 8:33 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 11 May 2015 18:05:07 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 5/11/2015 5:52 PM, J Burns wrote:
Chris, Clare,
Lots of Tecumseh float-bowl gaskets are available on Ebay, but no models
are listed. Does that mean they're all the same?

My bulb doesn't make bubbles in soapy water, but the rubber is cracked.
It's red, nonvented, and pinched like an hourglass. Ebay has several
that look just like it, but I can't tie any to the Sears model number of
my Tecumseh engine. That's why I thought it would be hard to get the
right gasket.


It's been a few years since I did much small engine
repair, but most likely yes, same.

Shears is usually good with exploded parts diagrams.
I've found Shears to use off spec parts. Can't use a
Tecumseh air filter on a Sears Tecumseh engine, for
example.


That's because the sears engiYou know, there is obvious, and there is super obvious. I didn't want to confuse the poor guy with that added info. But thanks for mention it, center posted and all. ne is NOT a Tecumseh engine. It is a
"craftsman" or "eager 1" engine built for Sears BY Tecumseh.
-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.



--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 5/11/2015 9:03 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
Finding the right replacement seal could be a hassle. An O ring could
probably work, but I'd need the right size. Anyone know something
better than white grease to seal a float bowl?

Would the local auto parts store have some gasket material that you
could cut your own seal from?


The gasket in question is shaped like an O ring, but
it's square stock, not round stock.

http://www.lawnmowerpartsoutlet.com/...rts/49-841.jpg

The odds of cutting your own is near zero.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..