We have an art project where we will be pasting paper sheets with outlines
on oilboard. The oilboard will be first screwed onto a construction fence.
Then after 10 days we will have to remove it. We can then simply unscrew
the oilboard.

One of the planners of the project suggested this powdered paste:
http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-...e-and-wallsize

The construction site can supply us with water from across the street. But
this powder isn't available locally, and is more expensive to have shipped
from Amazon.

But why this powder? There seem to be many wallpaper pastes available. And
why not a premixed in 5 gallon drums? We will have 2,200 square feet of
regular paper to paste. So the paper will be a lot thinner than wallpaper.
And hopefully the paste won't absorb into the paper too much.

At my local Lowes I find two 5-gal options. I see one is for all weights,
and the other for medium to heavy weight. I would want all weights.

Then the next question is what thickness nap rollers do we want. We plan to
put the paste on the oilboard, then unroll each 20"x60" sheet onto it.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On 04/14/2015 05:21 PM, Don Wiss wrote:
We have an art project where we will be pasting paper sheets with outlines
on oilboard. The oilboard will be first screwed onto a construction fence.
Then after 10 days we will have to remove it. We can then simply unscrew
the oilboard.

One of the planners of the project suggested this powdered paste:
http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-...e-and-wallsize

The construction site can supply us with water from across the street. But
this powder isn't available locally, and is more expensive to have shipped
from Amazon.

But why this powder? There seem to be many wallpaper pastes available. And
why not a premixed in 5 gallon drums? We will have 2,200 square feet of
regular paper to paste. So the paper will be a lot thinner than wallpaper.
And hopefully the paste won't absorb into the paper too much.

At my local Lowes I find two 5-gal options. I see one is for all weights,
and the other for medium to heavy weight. I would want all weights.

Then the next question is what thickness nap rollers do we want. We plan to
put the paste on the oilboard, then unroll each 20"x60" sheet onto it.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).




Back in the old day we made paste from flour and water.


Don't know how good it is but it should last ten days

On 4/14/15 6:21 PM, Don Wiss wrote:
We have an art project where we will be pasting paper sheets with outlines
on oilboard. The oilboard will be first screwed onto a construction fence.
Then after 10 days we will have to remove it. We can then simply unscrew
the oilboard.

One of the planners of the project suggested this powdered paste:
http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-...e-and-wallsize

The construction site can supply us with water from across the street. But
this powder isn't available locally, and is more expensive to have shipped
from Amazon.

But why this powder? There seem to be many wallpaper pastes available. And
why not a premixed in 5 gallon drums? We will have 2,200 square feet of
regular paper to paste. So the paper will be a lot thinner than wallpaper.
And hopefully the paste won't absorb into the paper too much.

At my local Lowes I find two 5-gal options. I see one is for all weights,
and the other for medium to heavy weight. I would want all weights.

Then the next question is what thickness nap rollers do we want. We plan to
put the paste on the oilboard, then unroll each 20"x60" sheet onto it.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

The technical data sheet says it's starch adhesive. My mother used to
make it with flour and water in a pan on the stove, with alum as a
preservative. The alum prevented mold if it was used for a papier mache
object that might be around a long time. You have to stir it as it heats
to avoid lumps, and add water to get the consistency you want. I don't
know if cornstarch works better.

What about rubber cement? Brush it on the board where the top of the
paper will go, get some on the paper by pressing it on the board or
brushing it on, let it dry briefly, and press it on. Then do the sides
and bottom. You could cement the middle of the paper if you think the
edges won't be enough.

On 4/14/2015 7:08 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 4/14/15 6:21 PM, Don Wiss wrote:
We have an art project where we will be pasting paper sheets with
outlines
on oilboard. The oilboard will be first screwed onto a construction
fence.
Then after 10 days we will have to remove it. We can then simply unscrew
the oilboard.

One of the planners of the project suggested this powdered paste:
http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-...e-and-wallsize


The construction site can supply us with water from across the street.
But
this powder isn't available locally, and is more expensive to have
shipped
from Amazon.

But why this powder? There seem to be many wallpaper pastes available.
And
why not a premixed in 5 gallon drums? We will have 2,200 square feet of
regular paper to paste. So the paper will be a lot thinner than
wallpaper.
And hopefully the paste won't absorb into the paper too much.

At my local Lowes I find two 5-gal options. I see one is for all weights,
and the other for medium to heavy weight. I would want all weights.

Then the next question is what thickness nap rollers do we want. We
plan to
put the paste on the oilboard, then unroll each 20"x60" sheet onto it.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

The technical data sheet says it's starch adhesive. My mother used to
make it with flour and water in a pan on the stove, with alum as a
preservative. The alum prevented mold if it was used for a papier mache
object that might be around a long time. You have to stir it as it heats
to avoid lumps, and add water to get the consistency you want. I don't
know if cornstarch works better.

What about rubber cement? Brush it on the board where the top of the
paper will go, get some on the paper by pressing it on the board or
brushing it on, let it dry briefly, and press it on. Then do the sides
and bottom. You could cement the middle of the paper if you think the
edges won't be enough.

If you mix flour with cold water and stir well, you get less lumps when
heating to partially solubilize. Should be fine for school project.

Don,

It's possible that someone here has tried this but I doubt it. No idea
why your planner suggested one brand of paste. Have you asked him? You'll
need to become the expert by doing a bit of experimentation. Hope the
deadline isn't nearing.

Dave M.

On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 19:08:06 -0400, J Burns wrote:

The technical data sheet says it's starch adhesive. My mother used to
make it with flour and water in a pan on the stove, with alum as a
preservative. The alum prevented mold if it was used for a papier mache
object that might be around a long time. You have to stir it as it heats
to avoid lumps, and add water to get the consistency you want. I don't
know if cornstarch works better.

The problem is we need enough for 2200 sq feet. The 5-gal can says good for
1500 sq feet. We would buy two to be sure to have enough. To make 10
gallons wouldn't be fun. It's not like we can't afford $80 in paste. For
the other parts of the project we have spent much more.

I have just learned that if the city levies a $1500 fine the site developer
will eat it. Construction fences aren't supposed to have political art on
them. And the city will know. We expect press.

What about rubber cement? Brush it on the board where the top of the
paper will go, get some on the paper by pressing it on the board or
brushing it on, let it dry briefly, and press it on. Then do the sides
and bottom. You could cement the middle of the paper if you think the
edges won't be enough.

For 2200 sq feet!? There are 264 sheets that are 20"x60".

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Tue, 14 Apr 2015, "David L. Martel" wrote:

It's possible that someone here has tried this but I doubt it. No idea
why your planner suggested one brand of paste. Have you asked him? You'll
need to become the expert by doing a bit of experimentation. Hope the
deadline isn't nearing.

I could. But he's busy and we dropped him from most of the e-mail
correspondence. It goes up on Saturday. The oilboards arrive on Wednesday.
I'm trying to find a place with a paper cutter wide enough. One place says
they can only cut paper and not heavy (0.015") stock. My local place has a
cutter only 20" wide. He was telling me that the pressing of the stack is
hydraulic, and wonders about crushing the board with the oil. Back when I
was in school, the paper cutters had a wheel you cranked to clamp down the
stack. Then a long arm to pull. Now all automatic.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On 4/14/15 9:06 PM, Don Wiss wrote:
On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 19:08:06 -0400, J Burns wrote:


What about rubber cement? Brush it on the board where the top of the
paper will go, get some on the paper by pressing it on the board or
brushing it on, let it dry briefly, and press it on. Then do the sides
and bottom. You could cement the middle of the paper if you think the
edges won't be enough.

For 2200 sq feet!? There are 264 sheets that are 20"x60".

I haven't used rubber cement in a long time. I was mistaken. You brush
it on one surface and press together. It sticks quickly and doesn't
penetrate paper.

It comes in quarts and gallons. Brushing rubber cement along the top
edge seems like a quick way to hang a 60" strip of paper in a precise
position. Then paste or rubber cement could be added to keep it from
flapping in the wind.

What is oilboard?????

On 4/14/15 10:03 PM, wrote:
What is oilboard?????

I wondered, too. It's the kind of cardboard used for making stencils.

On 4/14/15 6:21 PM, Don Wiss wrote:
We have an art project where we will be pasting paper sheets with outlines
on oilboard. The oilboard will be first screwed onto a construction fence.
Then after 10 days we will have to remove it. We can then simply unscrew
the oilboard.

The oilboard I've read about is a little thicker than a playing card.
Is that what you're using?

[...]

But why this powder? There seem to be many wallpaper pastes available. And
why not a premixed in 5 gallon drums? We will have 2,200 square feet of
regular paper to paste. So the paper will be a lot thinner than wallpaper.
And hopefully the paste won't absorb into the paper too much.

[...]


Then the next question is what thickness nap rollers do we want. We plan to
put the paste on the oilboard, then unroll each 20"x60" sheet onto it.

I think if you put a long strip of thin paper on a pasty surface, you'll
have to slide it a little. The moisture in the paste may soften the
paper. It may tear and wrinkle.

One person could hold the top edge of a paper strip in place while a
second person uses cellophane tape, the kind with a nonreflective
surface, to secure it at several spots along the top. Then you could
paste the oilboard and press the paper down without having to position it.

Another approach would be to put rubber cement in a squeeze bottle. The
cement comes in gallon cans, and the squeeze bottle would keep it from
drying before use. Run a bead along the oilboard where the top of the
paper will go, flatten the bead with a plastic spreader if necessary,
and attach the top edge of the paper. Then paste.

On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 22:21:20 -0400, J Burns wrote:

On 4/14/15 10:03 PM, wrote:
What is oilboard?????

I wondered, too. It's the kind of cardboard used for making stencils.

That is correct. If you buy letter stencils they are oilboard. This is
where we are buying our sheets: http://www.uline.com/BL_2652/Oil-Boards

We did not come up with the idea of screwing on oilboard and then pasting
onto it. We were at a loss on how to remove our sheets after a week. Then
one of the group asked his artist friends. He/she/they came up with this is
the way it is done. The oilboard is very stiff and can withstand rain.

I presume it was the artist friends that suggested that powdered paste.
They guy asking wouldn't know anything about paste.

Initially it was to be a rogue action on a fence around city property. Then
someone asked Norman Siegel. He said don't do it roguely. So we asked the
city. They said no. Finally we asked a major developer with many
construction fences. He liked it. Next week -- assuming we aren't rained
out and delay it a week -- I will post about the results.

I bought a couple boxes of short screws at Lowes. Tomorrow I will test
driving them through oilboard into plywood.

Still no one has suggested what sort of roller nap to spread the paste.

If we take up the suggestion of using rubber cement along the top, we would
use a paint brush for that.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 23:10:45 -0400, J Burns wrote:

The oilboard I've read about is a little thicker than a playing card.
Is that what you're using?

I sort of answered this in another post. It is 0.015" thick. A bit thicker
than a playing card. And heavy, with the oil impregnated in it.

Another approach would be to put rubber cement in a squeeze bottle. The
cement comes in gallon cans, and the squeeze bottle would keep it from
drying before use. Run a bead along the oilboard where the top of the
paper will go, flatten the bead with a plastic spreader if necessary,
and attach the top edge of the paper. Then paste.

Okay. I was thinking paint brush, as a brush is what is attached to the
caps of the cans of rubber cement. I get your point about it could dry out.
With 264 of these to paste, it is going to take hours. Probably far more
then we realize. With two rolling scaffolds, one would put up the oilboard
and the next the sheets. I don't know the length of them.

The reason for the scaffolds is the plywood sheets start on top of Jersey
barriers. The sidewalk is behind the construction fence, so we will be
blocking off one lane of traffic and be doing this in the street.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On 4/14/15 11:15 PM, Don Wiss wrote:
Still no one has suggested what sort of roller nap to spread the paste.

How about a 6" brush used for wallpapering? I imagine a roller could
leave the paste too thick, making the paper lumpy and wet.


If we take up the suggestion of using rubber cement along the top, we would
use a paint brush for that.

I suppose a brush should have a lid device around the handle to slow
evaporation when the brush isn't actually in use.

On 4/14/15 11:55 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 4/14/15 11:15 PM, Don Wiss wrote:
Still no one has suggested what sort of roller nap to spread the paste.

How about a 6" brush used for wallpapering? I imagine a roller could
leave the paste too thick, making the paper lumpy and wet.


If we take up the suggestion of using rubber cement along the top, we
would
use a paint brush for that.

I suppose a brush should have a lid device around the handle to slow
evaporation when the brush isn't actually in use.

I've been involved in more than one wallpapering project, but I was
pretty young. We steamed the old paper loose, brushed on paste, kept
moving the new paper until it was in position, and went over it with a
roller.

On oilboard, one could probably thin out the paste like paint because
the oilboard wouldn't absorb much. I'd want to see how well starch
paste sticks to oilboard, before I started pasting up 2000 square feet.
I'd want to test rubber cement, too.

Thin paste would mean less moisture for the paper to absorb.

Thin paste might be applied with a short-nap roller or a garden sprayer
and a sponge. Spray on a little and spread with the sponge.

On 4/14/15 11:15 PM, Don Wiss wrote:
I bought a couple boxes of short screws at Lowes. Tomorrow I will test
driving them through oilboard into plywood.
How about 1/4" staples? Quick and cheap to apply, and they can be
removed with a screwdriver and pliers.

On 4/15/15 12:26 AM, J Burns wrote:
On 4/14/15 11:15 PM, Don Wiss wrote:
I bought a couple boxes of short screws at Lowes. Tomorrow I will test
driving them through oilboard into plywood.
How about 1/4" staples? Quick and cheap to apply, and they can be
removed with a screwdriver and pliers.

With all those staples, I'd use a heavy duty staple remover. Why not
also use staples to position the paper prior to pasting?

On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 00:44:19 -0400, J Burns wrote:

On 4/15/15 12:26 AM, J Burns wrote:
On 4/14/15 11:15 PM, Don Wiss wrote:
I bought a couple boxes of short screws at Lowes. Tomorrow I will test
driving them through oilboard into plywood.

How about 1/4" staples? Quick and cheap to apply, and they can be
removed with a screwdriver and pliers.

With all those staples, I'd use a heavy duty staple remover. Why not
also use staples to position the paper prior to pasting?

I had asked about a staple gun to the fellow that asked the artists. And
then use one of the lever type staple removers. No response. I gather this
is because the artists suggested screws, it became screws.

Some of the screws will be hidden underneath the paper. If staples under
the paper they could be very hard to find.

I bought #6 x 1/2" flat Phillips wood screws. And these:
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...41-1278-PF7161

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

Don Wiss wrote:

Then the next question is what thickness nap rollers do we want. We
plan to
put the paste on the oilboard, then unroll each 20"x60" sheet onto it.

I have no idea what oilboard is but if it is anything like Masonite I'd be
using a short nap roller, probaly 1/4 foam.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 4/14/2015 6:21 PM, Don Wiss wrote:
We have an art project where we will be pasting paper sheets with outlines
on oilboard. The oilboard will be first screwed onto a construction fence.
Then after 10 days we will have to remove it. We can then simply unscrew
the oilboard.

One of the planners of the project suggested this powdered paste:
http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-...e-and-wallsize

The construction site can supply us with water from across the street. But
this powder isn't available locally, and is more expensive to have shipped
from Amazon.

But why this powder? There seem to be many wallpaper pastes available. And
why not a premixed in 5 gallon drums? We will have 2,200 square feet of
regular paper to paste. So the paper will be a lot thinner than wallpaper.
And hopefully the paste won't absorb into the paper too much.

At my local Lowes I find two 5-gal options. I see one is for all weights,
and the other for medium to heavy weight. I would want all weights.

Then the next question is what thickness nap rollers do we want. We plan to
put the paste on the oilboard, then unroll each 20"x60" sheet onto it.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).


What is oilboard? Familiar with art supplies but never heard of it.
Consider watered-down Elmer's Glue or some other version of PVA. Here
is a link to Dick Blick, which is the best low-price online art supply
dealer:
http://www.dickblick.com/adhesives/g...tepvaadhesives

Given the size of the individual panels, I would use a foam roller with
thinned glue....thinned Elmers/PVA will become tacky more quickly and
dry faster than wallpaper paste. If the paper is delicate, like
newsprint, the wetness of wallpaper paste might make it fall apart while
trying to position the paper. If using larger rollers, the shortest nap
would be the best, being careful to spread paste thinly. If there is
plenty of help, old paint brushes or larger chip brushes would work, too.

If intent on using wheat paste, go to any paint/wallpaper/hardware store
and see what they have....plain old wheat paste shouldn't be more than $4-5.

On 4/14/2015 9:54 PM, J Burns wrote:
I haven't used rubber cement in a long time. I was mistaken. You brush
it on one surface and press together. It sticks quickly and doesn't
penetrate paper.

It comes in quarts and gallons. Brushing rubber cement along the top
edge seems like a quick way to hang a 60" strip of paper in a precise
position. Then paste or rubber cement could be added to keep it from
flapping in the wind.


Probably not these days, but rubber cement used to have
some solvents which could be flammable and toxic. Please
read the label, and consider a LOT of ventilation while
it is being applied. Also no lighting sparklers or fireworks
during use of flammables.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 4/14/2015 11:15 PM, Don Wiss wrote:
On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 22:21:20 -0400, J Burns wrote:

On 4/14/15 10:03 PM, wrote:
What is oilboard?????

I wondered, too. It's the kind of cardboard used for making stencils.

That is correct. If you buy letter stencils they are oilboard. This is
where we are buying our sheets: http://www.uline.com/BL_2652/Oil-Boards

We did not come up with the idea of screwing on oilboard and then pasting
onto it. We were at a loss on how to remove our sheets after a week. Then
one of the group asked his artist friends. He/she/they came up with this is
the way it is done. The oilboard is very stiff and can withstand rain.

I presume it was the artist friends that suggested that powdered paste.
They guy asking wouldn't know anything about paste.

This sounds like a half-assed plan! "Oilboard" withstands rain? Fine,
but wheat paste does not. For cutting sheets of paper, a roller cutter
from fabric store (or a plain ol' utility knife) and straight-edge
should work.

Initially it was to be a rogue action on a fence around city property. Then
someone asked Norman Siegel. He said don't do it roguely. So we asked the
city. They said no. Finally we asked a major developer with many
construction fences. He liked it. Next week -- assuming we aren't rained
out and delay it a week -- I will post about the results.

I bought a couple boxes of short screws at Lowes. Tomorrow I will test
driving them through oilboard into plywood.

Still no one has suggested what sort of roller nap to spread the paste.

If we take up the suggestion of using rubber cement along the top, we would
use a paint brush for that.
Rubber cement is an idiotic idea!

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On 4/14/2015 11:27 PM, Don Wiss wrote:
On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 23:10:45 -0400, J Burns wrote:

The oilboard I've read about is a little thicker than a playing card.
Is that what you're using?

I sort of answered this in another post. It is 0.015" thick. A bit thicker
than a playing card. And heavy, with the oil impregnated in it.

Another approach would be to put rubber cement in a squeeze bottle. The
cement comes in gallon cans, and the squeeze bottle would keep it from
drying before use. Run a bead along the oilboard where the top of the
paper will go, flatten the bead with a plastic spreader if necessary,
and attach the top edge of the paper. Then paste.

Sounds like a tip from someone who has never used rubber cement.

Okay. I was thinking paint brush, as a brush is what is attached to the
caps of the cans of rubber cement. I get your point about it could dry out.
With 264 of these to paste, it is going to take hours. Probably far more
then we realize. With two rolling scaffolds, one would put up the oilboard
and the next the sheets. I don't know the length of them.

Spray varnish or adhesive would probably be the best choice.

The reason for the scaffolds is the plywood sheets start on top of Jersey
barriers. The sidewalk is behind the construction fence, so we will be
blocking off one lane of traffic and be doing this in the street.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).


You gonna' be on CNN?

dadiOH wrote:
Don Wiss wrote:

Then the next question is what thickness nap rollers do we want. We
plan to
put the paste on the oilboard, then unroll each 20"x60" sheet onto
it.

I have no idea what oilboard is but if it is anything like Masonite
I'd be using a short nap roller, probaly 1/4 foam.

OK, I now know what oilboard is. I would still be using a foam roller to
apply paste to the wall.

The question now becomes, how much tack does the paste have? If the
oilboard is just slapped up there and positioned, will it hold the position
without sliding down? Will it conform - or need to conform - to the
irregular surface of (presumably) sheathing grade ply? You might need to
add some staples and you might need to squeegee it down a bit. A piece of
1x2 could do that.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Don Wiss wrote:
We have an art project where we will be pasting paper sheets with
outlines
on oilboard. The oilboard will be first screwed onto a construction
fence.
Then after 10 days we will have to remove it. We can then simply
unscrew
the oilboard.

One of the planners of the project suggested this powdered paste:
http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-...e-and-wallsize

The construction site can supply us with water from across the
street. But
this powder isn't available locally, and is more expensive to have
shipped
from Amazon.

But why this powder? There seem to be many wallpaper pastes
available. And
why not a premixed in 5 gallon drums? We will have 2,200 square feet
of
regular paper to paste. So the paper will be a lot thinner than
wallpaper.
And hopefully the paste won't absorb into the paper too much.

At my local Lowes I find two 5-gal options. I see one is for all
weights,
and the other for medium to heavy weight. I would want all weights.

Then the next question is what thickness nap rollers do we want. We
plan to
put the paste on the oilboard, then unroll each 20"x60" sheet onto it.

Further thinking results in THE PLAN...

1. roll white glue onto oil board and let dry

2. fasten oil board to fence

3. spritz oil board with water (think garden sprayer)

4. squeegee paper sheets to oil board.

- OR -

Squeegee paper sheets to oil board before oilboard is fastened to fence.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 4/14/2015 11:15 PM, Don Wiss wrote:

I bought a couple boxes of short screws at Lowes. Tomorrow I will test
driving them through oilboard into plywood.

Still no one has suggested what sort of roller nap to spread the paste.

If we take up the suggestion of using rubber cement along the top, we would
use a paint brush for that.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).


As to the atachment, if it's fairly short term, you
might get better results with Arrow staple tacker
and T-50 staples. Quick and easy. You can get different
lengths of staples.

If you are limited to screws, I suggest hex head pointy
screws, like the ones heating and AC guys use. We used to
call em Malco (brand) zip screws. They have a six sided
head, and can be driven using a drill, and quarter inch
hex tip. Don't buy the Stanley hex tips from HD, they
round out promptly and are useless. Try to get good Malco.
These pointy tip screws go in well, and the hex heads and
drill tips give a good grip. Unlike slotted or phillips.
You can get magnetic insert drill tips, which are excellent.
I'll dig up a URL for you, if desired.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 4/15/2015 12:44 AM, J Burns wrote:
With all those staples, I'd use a heavy duty staple remover. Why not
also use staples to position the paper prior to pasting?

Zip screws can also be removed with a drill
and 1/4 inch nut setter tip. If 110 VAC power
is availble, a 3/8 VSR drill does a good job.

Or, cordless drills and someone to take batteries
to and from a power source.

Can be turned by hand, but that's a bit like work.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Wed, 15 Apr 2015, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Or, cordless drills and someone to take batteries
to and from a power source.

We have a lot of cordless drills. Pretty much everyone has one these days.
With really short screws it won't take much energy to drill them in.

We are about to post to our list to see who all will show up. I presume
many will. The weather is now forecast to be lovely. And there is no
rogueness in the action to scare some people away.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 07:54:43 -0400, "dadiOH" wrote:

OK, I now know what oilboard is. I would still be using a foam roller to
apply paste to the wall.

Foam roller. I hadn't thought of that,

The question now becomes, how much tack does the paste have? If the
oilboard is just slapped up there and positioned, will it hold the position
without sliding down? Will it conform - or need to conform - to the
irregular surface of (presumably) sheathing grade ply? You might need to
add some staples and you might need to squeegee it down a bit. A piece of
1x2 could do that.

The oilboard can't be pasted to the plywood. After 10 days all has to be
removed, leaving no trace. Yes, it is low grade plywood. It has been
painted regulation hunter green. And is only a month or two old.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 08:03:13 -0400, "dadiOH" wrote:

1. roll white glue onto oil board and let dry

2. fasten oil board to fence

3. spritz oil board with water (think garden sprayer)

4. squeegee paper sheets to oil board.

If we didn't have 2200 sq feet, or if we had a warehouse to setup in, this
could be a good idea.

Squeegee paper sheets to oil board before oilboard is fastened to fence.

I though of this. Problem is the sheets are 20" wide and the oilboard 24"
wide.

To remove we are planning to use a razor knife to cut the oilboard at every
sheet break. Then we can save all the sheets. Yes, that will leave score
marks in the plywood. But it shouldn't be too noticeable. And as noted
before, the sidewalk is behind the construction fence and on top of Jersey
barriers, so people wan't be getting too close. At least on the avenue. We
have so many linear feet this will also be on the side streets. And we have
to jump over every sign and opening.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

What are Jersey barriers????

On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 09:03:05 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

What are Jersey barriers????

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jersey_barrier

They are under the plywood construction fence, as the fence is right at the
edge of a traffic lane. We will have to block off one lane of traffic to
place the rolling scaffolds. The site manager will be present, and
presumably some workers get the scaffolds to the site.

Across the avenue construction is further along. Scaffolds will probbaly
come from there. The fence we were given surrounds a hole. Which they are
probably still digging.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

Don Wiss wrote:
On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 08:03:13 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

1. roll white glue onto oil board and let dry

2. fasten oil board to fence

3. spritz oil board with water (think garden sprayer)

4. squeegee paper sheets to oil board.

If we didn't have 2200 sq feet, or if we had a warehouse to setup in,
this could be a good idea.

Squeegee paper sheets to oil board before oilboard is fastened to
fence.

I though of this. Problem is the sheets are 20" wide and the oilboard
24" wide.

So what's the problem? Excess glue on the oilboard wouldn't hurt anything.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

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On 4/15/15 9:27 AM, Don Wiss wrote:
To remove we are planning to use a razor knife to cut the oilboard at every
sheet break. Then we can save all the sheets. Yes, that will leave score
marks in the plywood. But it shouldn't be too noticeable. And as noted
before, the sidewalk is behind the construction fence and on top of Jersey
barriers, so people wan't be getting too close. At least on the avenue. We
have so many linear feet this will also be on the side streets. And we have
to jump over every sign and opening.

I've never put oilboard on a fence, but I have temporarily secured
roofing felt. Some use staples or nails. I like bricks.

All I need to do is secure strategic spots on the edges to keep wind
from getting under it and lifting it. Rubber cement would be dandy if it
would stick to roofing felt. Just a few dabs.

Rubber cement sounds dandy for securing oilboard to painted plywood.
Just a few dabs along the edges and slap it up. Remove it undamaged with
a spatula.

I checked the hazards of Elmer's Wrinkle Free Rubber cement. It contains
a little isopropyl alcohol and a lot of heptane. It's flammable.
Breathing a lot can cause drowsiness and nausea, but it's temporary. It
shouldn't be a problem outdoors.