On Sat, 14 Mar 2015 14:38:33 -0600, wrote:

Sweating copper is not all that hard.

Crimping PEX is easier. Or learn the hard way.
--
"Cats haven't invented anything, as far as I'm aware of." - Greg Gutfeld

On Fri, 13 Mar 2015 01:50:51 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote:

I never sweated copper fittings. But I just priced copper and it's
about the same cost so I may go with it. I'll decide later.
I've done a lot of steel pipe, and it's easy for me. But copper
should be easier.
My Ridgid dies/cutter were stolen long ago. I really don't care to
buy another set.

Sweating copper is not all that hard. Clean the pipe and fitting well
with emory cloth on the pipe, and buy one of those metal brushes to
clean inside the fittings (one for each size pipe). Apply appropriate
flux, and get plumbing solder (lead free is all they use now).

Dont try to solder with a standard propane torch. They are not hot
enough. Get a propane TURBO torch. I prefer the ones that have a hose
from the tank to the head. Much easier to use in tight places.

Heat the fitting quickly apply the solder and as soon as it flows, stop
heating the pipe. Wiping the joint with a wet cloth makes a better
looking joint. Be sure to wear leather or welding gloves. Hot solder
likes to drip and splatter and burn your hands and arms.

If you have to sweat very near a wall or timber, clamp, position, or
somehow place a piece of tin behind the joint. They also sell asbestos
pads (or have those been banned lately?). The best way to solder
something that is real close to a wall or wood, is to pre-solder. In
other words, fit all the pieces before soldering them. Then use a
pencil to mark each fitting to the pipe, so they can be properly
soldered where they belong. Then remove that section of pipe and
fittings, and solder it on your basement floor or outdoors, or anywhere
safe. Then simply put that whole section against the wall or rafters,
and just solder the compelte section where it's easy to make the joint.

I suggest always having a wet cloth, spray bottle with water handy to
cool any wood that gets charred. And for a newcomer to sweating copper,
Have a fire extinguisher handy, or a garden hose connected to a live
source of water. (just in case)!

Hope this helps!

I used Mapp gas torch forever, it worked well.

one day my torch with near empty tank tipped over and broke.

so i bought a new tank and torch.

very poor performance.

Even with torch and tank upside down.

come to find out mapp gas is no longer mapp, its propane with some added volatiles.

I had a particular bad place to work on. so i upgraded to a pricey air acetelyne torch that is very hot and works wonderfully

On Saturday, March 14, 2015 at 12:32:29 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 03/14/2015 10:15 AM, wrote:
...

The lines are mostly black iron; I do not know what the half-mile or so
of line from the pipeline connection in the pasture to the farmstead
actually is; I don't remember altho I _think_ I recall that Dad ran a
new line back in early 60s when we put in the feedlot and a grain dryer
but I don't remember what it was...I keep waiting for it to develop a
leak and have to replace it...

Generally the old underground stuff was bitumen coated black iron,
with welded and wrapped joints. Stuff lasted virtually forever because
there was no oxygen contact to the iron.

I've no idea; it's only bare black iron where the feeds come above
ground but I've not had reason to disturb the ground so no idea what was
laid or even who actually laid it. Since it's service from the meter
(which is a relatively recent addition that the pipeline companies got a
way to break the original right-of-way agreement of un-metered farmstead
use when Panhandle Eastern sold the line) I'm certain a new line was
laid by dad and not the pipeline company; I don't know if one of the
conditions grandpa also got was for them to run the feed line to the
house when they laid the big line or not; I'd presume that would have
been too much even then.

--

I don't know what size pipe he's talking about where it was welded.
I've seen welding done to join large gas mains, eg 12" diameter, but
never the typical small lines to a residence. Those are just black
pipe using couplings/fittings. They are supposed to be covered in a tar type
compound to protect them from corrosion. Like I said in the other post,
at a condo I saw black pipe that wasn't properly coated all fail in
as little as 5 years. There were 120 units where it was buried between
meter and inside. It was obvious that they just poured the tar compound
over it, didn't brush it on. The bottom of the pipes was uncoated. I
was shocked that it could fail so fast. It literally looked like swiss
cheese, holes everywhere. And not just one unit, almost all of them
were in bad shape. If I hadn't seen it with my own eyes, I would never
believe it could fail so quickly. I would have thought it would be more
like 25 or 50 years. The builder was known to have cut corners and done
anything to save a buck. I wondered if he managed to get some inferior
Chinese crap black pipe. Another example of what he did was the wood
decks, instead of having footers, had a shovel of concrete thrown under
the posts. The building inspector was last seen heading to parts unknown.
And a decade later, the FBI found $50K in cash in the mayor's attic.....

Also interesting was we had a big discussion with the gas company as
to what the best replacement would be. This was early 90s. They were
as confused as we are. I remember we discussed galvanized vs black iron
and I don't recall they had a good answer either. We wound up replacing
it with black iron, this time properly wrapped and coated.

On 03/15/2015 9:36 AM, trader_4 wrote:
....

I don't know what size pipe he's talking about where it was welded.
I've seen welding done to join large gas mains, eg 12" diameter, but
never the typical small lines to a residence. Those are just black
pipe using couplings/fittings. They are supposed to be covered in a tar type
compound to protect them from corrosion. ...

I also was puzzled; I'd surely think never do such a thing on smaller
diameter than 6", either...it's been a while since I've been down in the
pasture where the meter actually sits closely enough to it and paid any
attention as to what that connection diameter is; I _think_ it's either
1-1/4 or 1-1/2"...I know it's certainly larger than a typical household
feed but not like a large industrial facility. It was put in to be
capable of supplying the grain dryer and the farrowing sheds, etc., as
well as just the houses, etc., so has a decent capacity. The run is
actually closer to a quarter-mile+ rather than half-mile I think I said
above; it's a half-mile to the end of the section line east but the line
crosses the native grass pasture fence into the farm ground about
halfway or so down there...it's got to angle back north a ways but
that's not all that far. So, there's some sizing for the pressure drop,
too...

I just don't know what was actually used but my guess would certainly be
black iron with traditional fittings. I suppose since it's been 50 yr
already or so it probably was wrapped/coated. The gas company does come
and do a sniffer walk along the general area where that feed line runs
occasionally; the pipeline companies (there are three; two separate
lines parallel each other just east of which the first is the one that
we get the supply from and a third parallels them roughly but is to the
west of the homestead a few hundred yards) fly the high pressure lines
every week.

Also interesting was we had a big discussion with the gas company as
to what the best replacement would be. This was early 90s. They were
as confused as we are. I remember we discussed galvanized vs black iron
and I don't recall they had a good answer either. We wound up replacing
it with black iron, this time properly wrapped and coated.

I suspect possibly as well as perhaps inferior-quality pipe local soil
conditions could have exacerbated the corrosion problems...the regular
galvanized water lines to the feed lots laid at the same time have yet
to have any problems here, either, but I also keep waiting for one of
them to spring a leak...of course, there is still (I think) some much
older water distribution line in the yard and feeding the house; quite a
bit of it has been replaced/repaired over the 100 yrs and at this point
even dad wasn't sure just what was/wasn't. While we were still in TN
they had a line break and ended up that it didn't run the direction he
thought; they had to dig twice to get the right direction to isolate the
break back then. Unfortunately, afaict there are no notes he left on
that, either, so we'll at some point likely have another experience!

When had a septic field installed 10 yr or so ago, the fellow that laid
the drain line from the tank to it had to cross one of the yard feed
lines. It was full of pinholes but so tiny all the tree roots from the
Siberian elms plugged it from showing any major leaks. He ended up
having to replace about three joints to finally find a place where the
could make a solid connection he said--we went visiting the kids/g'kids
in TN while so had the run of the place and we didn't need to worry
about access while he did the work...

--

On Sun, 15 Mar 2015 10:01:04 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 03/15/2015 9:36 AM, trader_4 wrote:
...

I don't know what size pipe he's talking about where it was welded.
I've seen welding done to join large gas mains, eg 12" diameter, but
never the typical small lines to a residence. Those are just black
pipe using couplings/fittings. They are supposed to be covered in a tar type
compound to protect them from corrosion. ...

I also was puzzled; I'd surely think never do such a thing on smaller
diameter than 6", either...it's been a while since I've been down in the
pasture where the meter actually sits closely enough to it and paid any
attention as to what that connection diameter is; I _think_ it's either
1-1/4 or 1-1/2"...I know it's certainly larger than a typical household
feed but not like a large industrial facility. It was put in to be
capable of supplying the grain dryer and the farrowing sheds, etc., as
well as just the houses, etc., so has a decent capacity. The run is
actually closer to a quarter-mile+ rather than half-mile I think I said
above; it's a half-mile to the end of the section line east but the line
crosses the native grass pasture fence into the farm ground about
halfway or so down there...it's got to angle back north a ways but
that's not all that far. So, there's some sizing for the pressure drop,
too...

I just don't know what was actually used but my guess would certainly be
black iron with traditional fittings. I suppose since it's been 50 yr
already or so it probably was wrapped/coated. The gas company does come
and do a sniffer walk along the general area where that feed line runs
occasionally; the pipeline companies (there are three; two separate
lines parallel each other just east of which the first is the one that
we get the supply from and a third parallels them roughly but is to the
west of the homestead a few hundred yards) fly the high pressure lines
every week.

Also interesting was we had a big discussion with the gas company as
to what the best replacement would be. This was early 90s. They were
as confused as we are. I remember we discussed galvanized vs black iron
and I don't recall they had a good answer either. We wound up replacing
it with black iron, this time properly wrapped and coated.

I suspect possibly as well as perhaps inferior-quality pipe local soil
conditions could have exacerbated the corrosion problems...the regular
galvanized water lines to the feed lots laid at the same time have yet
to have any problems here, either, but I also keep waiting for one of
them to spring a leak...of course, there is still (I think) some much
older water distribution line in the yard and feeding the house; quite a
bit of it has been replaced/repaired over the 100 yrs and at this point
even dad wasn't sure just what was/wasn't. While we were still in TN
they had a line break and ended up that it didn't run the direction he
thought; they had to dig twice to get the right direction to isolate the
break back then. Unfortunately, afaict there are no notes he left on
that, either, so we'll at some point likely have another experience!

When had a septic field installed 10 yr or so ago, the fellow that laid
the drain line from the tank to it had to cross one of the yard feed
lines. It was full of pinholes but so tiny all the tree roots from the
Siberian elms plugged it from showing any major leaks. He ended up
having to replace about three joints to finally find a place where the
could make a solid connection he said--we went visiting the kids/g'kids
in TN while so had the run of the place and we didn't need to worry
about access while he did the work...
4 inch and up MUST be welded. 2 inch and up are commonly welded
lines.
High pressure gas lines of any size are virtually ALWAYS welded.

On Sat, 14 Mar 2015 14:38:33 -0600, wrote:

On Fri, 13 Mar 2015 01:50:51 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote:

I never sweated copper fittings. But I just priced copper and it's
about the same cost so I may go with it. I'll decide later.
I've done a lot of steel pipe, and it's easy for me. But copper
should be easier.
My Ridgid dies/cutter were stolen long ago. I really don't care to
buy another set.

Sweating copper is not all that hard. Clean the pipe and fitting well
with emory cloth on the pipe, and buy one of those metal brushes to
clean inside the fittings (one for each size pipe). Apply appropriate
flux, and get plumbing solder (lead free is all they use now).

Dont try to solder with a standard propane torch. They are not hot
enough. Get a propane TURBO torch. I prefer the ones that have a hose
from the tank to the head. Much easier to use in tight places.

Heat the fitting quickly apply the solder and as soon as it flows, stop
heating the pipe. Wiping the joint with a wet cloth makes a better
looking joint. Be sure to wear leather or welding gloves. Hot solder
likes to drip and splatter and burn your hands and arms.

If you have to sweat very near a wall or timber, clamp, position, or
somehow place a piece of tin behind the joint. They also sell asbestos
pads (or have those been banned lately?). The best way to solder
something that is real close to a wall or wood, is to pre-solder. In
other words, fit all the pieces before soldering them. Then use a
pencil to mark each fitting to the pipe, so they can be properly
soldered where they belong. Then remove that section of pipe and
fittings, and solder it on your basement floor or outdoors, or anywhere
safe. Then simply put that whole section against the wall or rafters,
and just solder the compelte section where it's easy to make the joint.

I suggest always having a wet cloth, spray bottle with water handy to
cool any wood that gets charred. And for a newcomer to sweating copper,
Have a fire extinguisher handy, or a garden hose connected to a live
source of water. (just in case)!

Hope this helps!

It does, especially on what torch to use. I've saved it for
reference. Thanks.

On 03/15/2015 1:46 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 15 Mar 2015 10:01:04 -0500, wrote:
On 03/15/2015 9:36 AM, trader_4 wrote:
...

I don't know what size pipe he's talking about where it was welded.
I've seen welding done to join large gas mains, eg 12" diameter, but
never the typical small lines to a residence. Those are just black
pipe using couplings/fittings. They are supposed to be covered in a tar type
compound to protect them from corrosion. ...

I also was puzzled; I'd surely think never do such a thing on smaller
diameter than 6", either......
....
4 inch and up MUST be welded. 2 inch and up are commonly welded
lines.

Not sure where that's coming from...from the PSEG manual I quoted earlier...

"Steel piping up to and including 1-1/4 inches shall be of the threaded
construction with line pipe couplings. Steel pipe larger than 1-1/4
inches may be of threaded, welded or compression coupled construction."

The above is from the section applying to the customer side of the meter
for residential and similar installations.

I'm sure some industrial facilities have more stringent requirements as
I'm sure other jurisdictions may as well but considering it "common" for
lines as small as 2" to be welded for such an application strikes me as
"not likely" at least anywhere around here.

Of course, now anything new underground would be plastic.

High pressure gas lines of any size are virtually ALWAYS welded.

Sure, but that's another animal entirely.

--

On Sun, 15 Mar 2015 14:48:22 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 03/15/2015 1:46 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 15 Mar 2015 10:01:04 -0500, wrote:
On 03/15/2015 9:36 AM, trader_4 wrote:
...

I don't know what size pipe he's talking about where it was welded.
I've seen welding done to join large gas mains, eg 12" diameter, but
never the typical small lines to a residence. Those are just black
pipe using couplings/fittings. They are supposed to be covered in a tar type
compound to protect them from corrosion. ...

I also was puzzled; I'd surely think never do such a thing on smaller
diameter than 6", either......
...
4 inch and up MUST be welded. 2 inch and up are commonly welded
lines.

Not sure where that's coming from...from the PSEG manual I quoted earlier...

"Steel piping up to and including 1-1/4 inches shall be of the threaded
construction with line pipe couplings. Steel pipe larger than 1-1/4
inches may be of threaded, welded or compression coupled construction."

And that disagrees with what I said how??? You may find in some areas
1 1/4 to 4 inch pipe MAY be threaded - while in other areas all of
those, or most of them, will be welded.

I think if you look farther you will find 4" and up are never
threaded. However, very unlikely you will find large pipe on the
customer side of the meter, so your quote is irrelevent in the case of
the feeder line to the house IN MOST CASES, because, at least here,
the meter is at the house.

The above is from the section applying to the customer side of the meter
for residential and similar installations.

I'm sure some industrial facilities have more stringent requirements as
I'm sure other jurisdictions may as well but considering it "common" for
lines as small as 2" to be welded for such an application strikes me as
"not likely" at least anywhere around here.

Of course, now anything new underground would be plastic.

High pressure gas lines of any size are virtually ALWAYS welded.

Sure, but that's another animal entirely.

On Sunday, March 15, 2015 at 8:53:40 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 15 Mar 2015 14:48:22 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 03/15/2015 1:46 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 15 Mar 2015 10:01:04 -0500, wrote:
On 03/15/2015 9:36 AM, trader_4 wrote:
...

I don't know what size pipe he's talking about where it was welded.
I've seen welding done to join large gas mains, eg 12" diameter, but
never the typical small lines to a residence. Those are just black
pipe using couplings/fittings. They are supposed to be covered in a tar type
compound to protect them from corrosion. ...

I also was puzzled; I'd surely think never do such a thing on smaller
diameter than 6", either......
...
4 inch and up MUST be welded. 2 inch and up are commonly welded
lines.

Not sure where that's coming from...from the PSEG manual I quoted earlier...

"Steel piping up to and including 1-1/4 inches shall be of the threaded
construction with line pipe couplings. Steel pipe larger than 1-1/4
inches may be of threaded, welded or compression coupled construction."

And that disagrees with what I said how??? You may find in some areas
1 1/4 to 4 inch pipe MAY be threaded - while in other areas all of
those, or most of them, will be welded.

I doubt you'd find many 1 1/4" or 2" gas pipe lines welded. I've
never seen one around here. For one thing,
it's a hell of a lot harder to weld a joint than it is to screw a coupling or fitting because to weld you need clear access all the way around the joint
to get to it. That means a wide trench spot if it's underground or substantial
clearance on all sides if it's inside a building. Given that those
pipes inside a building tend to run up against joists, inside walls,
etc, how would a welder get in there to weld it? Then factor in the fire
danger. Plus you need a welder, which is typically an additional truck
and a guy certified to weld gas pipes. The plumbers around here, I've never seen them show up with a welder. Where I have seen welding and then X-raying going on is on large, pressurized distribution lines. That's the other
factor left out here. If a 1 1/4 or 2" pipe is being welded, what pressure
is this pipe at? Is it the low pressure on the customer side, or some
high pressure application?






I think if you look farther you will find 4" and up are never
threaded. However, very unlikely you will find large pipe on the
customer side of the meter, so your quote is irrelevent in the case of
the feeder line to the house IN MOST CASES, because, at least here,
the meter is at the house.

It hasn't been clear to me for a while now whether we're talking about
only customer side or high pressure, or both.

On 03/16/2015 9:15 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, March 15, 2015 at 8:53:40 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 15 Mar 2015 14:48:22 -0500, wrote:

On 03/15/2015 1:46 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 15 Mar 2015 10:01:04 -0500, wrote:
On 03/15/2015 9:36 AM, trader_4 wrote:
...

I don't know what size pipe he's talking about where it was welded.
I've seen welding done to join large gas mains, eg 12" diameter, but
never the typical small lines to a residence. Those are just black
pipe using couplings/fittings. They are supposed to be covered in a tar type
compound to protect them from corrosion. ...

I also was puzzled; I'd surely think never do such a thing on smaller
diameter than 6", either......
...
4 inch and up MUST be welded. 2 inch and up are commonly welded
lines.

Not sure where that's coming from...from the PSEG manual I quoted earlier...

"Steel piping up to and including 1-1/4 inches shall be of the threaded
construction with line pipe couplings. Steel pipe larger than 1-1/4
inches may be of threaded, welded or compression coupled construction."

And that disagrees with what I said how??? You may find in some areas
1 1/4 to 4 inch pipe MAY be threaded - while in other areas all of
those, or most of them, will be welded.

I doubt you'd find many 1 1/4" or 2" gas pipe lines welded. I've
never seen one around here. For one thing,
it's a hell of a lot harder to weld a joint than it is to screw a coupling or fitting because to weld you need clear access all the way around the joint
to get to it. That means a wide trench spot if it's underground or substantial
clearance on all sides if it's inside a building. Given that those
pipes inside a building tend to run up against joists, inside walls,
etc, how would a welder get in there to weld it? Then factor in the fire
danger. Plus you need a welder, which is typically an additional truck
and a guy certified to weld gas pipes. The plumbers around here, I've never seen them show up with a welder. Where I have seen welding and then X-raying going on is on large, pressurized distribution lines. That's the other
factor left out here. If a 1 1/4 or 2" pipe is being welded, what pressure
is this pipe at? Is it the low pressure on the customer side, or some
high pressure application?
....
I think if you look farther you will find 4" and up are never
threaded. However, very unlikely you will find large pipe on the
customer side of the meter, so your quote is irrelevent in the case of
the feeder line to the house IN MOST CASES, because, at least here,
the meter is at the house.

It hasn't been clear to me for a while now whether we're talking about
only customer side or high pressure, or both.

I think at this point he's mostly "just talking"...not that there's
anything specifically "wrong", it just isn't particularly applicable to
the specifics at hand...back earlier at the beginnings of this subthread
I was trying to guesstimate what might have been done on this specific
line altho my gut feel is that more than likely it was laid by hand by
dad and used straightforward threaded connections. It was in a sidebar
that I was/am expecting to have to replace it most any time altho if it
was indeed really wrapped and coated maybe it'll be somebody else's
problem and not mine.

I've stated from the git-go this is the supply line _from_ the meter to
the farmstead which runs about a quarter-mile from where the meter is
located in the fence line of the native grass pasture where the main
high-pressure line crosses it before again crossing cultivated ground.
It is definitely under 2" but it's been long enough since I myself have
been close to the meter and paid any attention at all to it that I don't
really recall what it is there; the feeds that come above ground at the
various locations around the farmstead vary from 1/2" to 1-1/4"
depending...I've also never checked just what the feed pressure is in
that main; it's not line pressure by any stretch but it is higher than
end-pressure as there are regulators/reducers at each end point...

In general, if were installing welded underground, would think it would
be done basically as they do the larger lines; lay it out and do the
welds on the ground beside the trench then put the finished line in and
make the end connections.

I'd also grant for virtually any commercial or other large customer
today if were going to use iron it'd be a hired-out job or they would
have the facilities to do it in house and welding is likely what would
be done (altho I can't imagine anybody wouldn't use plastic these days)
but this was/is a farm installation that I'm guessing Dad did although
it is possible he hired it done that would be an unusual thing given his
penchant for doing anything and everything possible themselves as actual
money was tight; time was available.

On your comment regarding access issues I've seen some pretty creative
solutions in various power plants for nuclear-grade welding of steam
and/or water lines during outages... I've also seen some major
chunks of concrete/rebar taken out to get access when there was no other
way that had to be rebuilt afterwards.

--

replying to Paul Franklin, Greg Mitchell wrote:
Paul, as a licensed irrigators in Texas who only does irrigation repair, I
come frequently to jobs where plumber has replaced existing copper or pvc
water service line from meter to house with pex. They usually use 3/4". They
also install a tee fitting near the meter to feed into the irrigation backflow
device, (usually a double check valve), also using pex. The consequences of
restricting flow to the irrigation system is devastating, and requires the
plumber to repipe up to that tee and into the backflow device with copper or
occurred, then pex on into the house where maximum flow is not crucial.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ze-825574-.htm

replying to Jerry.Tan, Karmike wrote:
Practically all end fixtures have 3/8€� inlets anyway making this a
non-issue.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ze-825574-.htm

replying to Jerry.Tan, forum111 wrote:
As others have said, there are a lot of variables that change with PEX vs.
copper. It's certainly no secret that PEX tubing has thicker walls while using
CTS (Copper Tubing Size) for a nominal dimension. PEX, copper, and CPVC pipe
with the same CTS will be the same on the outside, but not necessarily the
inside. And yeah, the barbed PEX fittings further reduce the inner diameter
and it's not something that seems to get stated all that often. Frequently I
find there isn't an ID listed in even the spec sheet for the barbed fittings I
come across. But as has also been stated, up-sizing is a common practice when
going from copper to PEX, especially if one is sticking with main lines and
branches as opposed to home runs. I'm a big fan of using 3/4" PEX wherever
1/2" copper is being replaced. For example, the ID of the 3/4" barbed fittings
I use end up being virtually identical to the ID of 1/2" Type L copper. In the
end this may net a slight performance increase over the existing copper plan
when it comes to the higher flow fixtures, but as long as there is no
performance decrease I can sleep at night.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ze-825574-.htm

replying to forum111, Mitchell Broussard wrote:
I recently gutted and remodeled a house on Toledo Bend. We tied in to a PVC
3/4'' line and reduced it down to 1/2'' Pex feeding the Hot water heater, BIG
MISTAKE!! No Volume, sure the toilets and Vanities work fine but the Shower
/tub doesnt. The problem i have now is everything is behind new drywall, and
hot water heater is in attic. We have been troubleshooting the water volume
problem and after reading all your comments, i know the problem is my incoming
line (too small). I'm either gonna go with 3/4'' PVC or hopefully i can get by
with 3/4'' PEX and use the Manifolds they sell like at Lowes, right????

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ze-825574-.htm

On Sat, 01 Jun 2019 21:44:02 GMT, Mitchell Broussard
m wrote:

replying to forum111, Mitchell Broussard wrote:
I recently gutted and remodeled a house on Toledo Bend. We tied in to a PVC
3/4'' line and reduced it down to 1/2'' Pex feeding the Hot water heater, BIG
MISTAKE!! No Volume, sure the toilets and Vanities work fine but the Shower
/tub doesnt. The problem i have now is everything is behind new drywall, and
hot water heater is in attic. We have been troubleshooting the water volume
problem and after reading all your comments, i know the problem is my incoming
line (too small). I'm either gonna go with 3/4'' PVC or hopefully i can get by
with 3/4'' PEX and use the Manifolds they sell like at Lowes, right????

PEX has the same problem as CPVC has. The nominal OD size is the same
as copper pipe but the wall thickness is a lot thicker so the ID is
smaller.

On 6/1/19 5:44 PM, Mitchell Broussard wrote:
replying to forum111, Mitchell Broussard wrote:
I recently gutted and remodeled a house on Toledo Bend. We tied in to a PVC
3/4'' line and reduced it down to 1/2'' Pex feeding the Hot water heater, BIG
MISTAKE!! No Volume, sure the toilets and Vanities work fine but the Shower
/tub doesnt. The problem i have now is everything is behind new drywall,


And the plumbing inspector signed off on that abortion?

On Sun, 2 Jun 2019 06:39:34 -0400, Jack Legg
wrote:

On 6/1/19 5:44 PM, Mitchell Broussard wrote:
replying to forum111, Mitchell Broussard wrote:
I recently gutted and remodeled a house on Toledo Bend. We tied in to a PVC
3/4'' line and reduced it down to 1/2'' Pex feeding the Hot water heater, BIG
MISTAKE!! No Volume, sure the toilets and Vanities work fine but the Shower
/tub doesnt. The problem i have now is everything is behind new drywall,


And the plumbing inspector signed off on that abortion?

That is pretty standard. They usually use 1/2" for a single fixture,
no matter what it is. Most as supposed to be limited to 3 GPM by the
water police anyway.