Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
gtslabs
 
Posts: n/a
Default milling square keyway slot INSIDE diameter.

I am making an attachment to my knee mill height hand crank. I drilled
a hole in a rod to match the diameter of the crank shaft. However there
is a keyway that I need to mill out of my adaptor on the INSIDE
Diameter. I dont see a Woodruff cutter working in this 5/8" hole.
I can mill it but it will not have square corners. What is needed to
get the square slot?
Thanks
Steve

  #2   Report Post  
Jerry Foster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"gtslabs" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am making an attachment to my knee mill height hand crank. I drilled
a hole in a rod to match the diameter of the crank shaft. However there
is a keyway that I need to mill out of my adaptor on the INSIDE
Diameter. I dont see a Woodruff cutter working in this 5/8" hole.
I can mill it but it will not have square corners. What is needed to
get the square slot?
Thanks
Steve

There are two "right" ways to do it. One is with a keyway broach (not real
cheap). They come in all the standard sizes. The other way is to cut it
with a shaper, if you know someone who has one.

But, for a "one shot" deal, you can use the mill as a shaper. Run an end
mill down through it to get it to the right width and depth. Then take a
boring bar or grind a piece of drill rod to make an appropriate cutter and
chuck it in the mill. Put the mill into back gear, if it has one. Rotate
the mill to position the cutter (easy if you can get at the belts...) and
then use the quill feed to drive the cutter down through the work, cutting
out the corners. Use the table feed to move the work for successive cuts.

You can do the same thing with the lathe, holding the work in the chuck and
driving the boring bar with the carriage feed.

Jerry


  #3   Report Post  
Tom
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Jerry Foster wrote:

"gtslabs" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am making an attachment to my knee mill height hand crank. I drilled
a hole in a rod to match the diameter of the crank shaft. However there
is a keyway that I need to mill out of my adaptor on the INSIDE
Diameter. I dont see a Woodruff cutter working in this 5/8" hole.
I can mill it but it will not have square corners. What is needed to
get the square slot?
Thanks
Steve

..................
But, for a "one shot" deal, you can use the mill as a shaper. Run an end
mill down through it to get it to the right width and depth. Then take a
boring bar or grind a piece of drill rod to make an appropriate cutter and
chuck it in the mill. Put the mill into back gear, if it has one. Rotate
the mill to position the cutter (easy if you can get at the belts...) and
then use the quill feed to drive the cutter down through the work, cutting
out the corners. Use the table feed to move the work for successive cuts.

You can do the same thing with the lathe, holding the work in the chuck and
driving the boring bar with the carriage feed.

Jerry


I don't think so, Jerry!
  #4   Report Post  
machineman
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Tom wrote:
Jerry Foster wrote:

"gtslabs" wrote in message
groups.com...

I am making an attachment to my knee mill height hand crank. I drilled
a hole in a rod to match the diameter of the crank shaft. However there
is a keyway that I need to mill out of my adaptor on the INSIDE
Diameter. I dont see a Woodruff cutter working in this 5/8" hole.
I can mill it but it will not have square corners. What is needed to
get the square slot?
Thanks
Steve


..................
But, for a "one shot" deal, you can use the mill as a shaper. Run an end
mill down through it to get it to the right width and depth. Then take a
boring bar or grind a piece of drill rod to make an appropriate cutter and
chuck it in the mill. Put the mill into back gear, if it has one. Rotate
the mill to position the cutter (easy if you can get at the belts...) and
then use the quill feed to drive the cutter down through the work, cutting
out the corners. Use the table feed to move the work for successive cuts.

You can do the same thing with the lathe, holding the work in the chuck and
driving the boring bar with the carriage feed.

Jerry



I don't think so, Jerry!

Have you tried it? I have seen it done quite often on the lathe. While
it works better in aluminum and brass, you can use the lathe for small
or odd sized keyways. A broach or shaper is preferred but one has to be
adaptable and use whats on hand. I would not want to do it on a daily
basis, as it is time consuming.
  #5   Report Post  
RoyJ
 
Posts: n/a
Default

We do one 1/4" blind key way per year using the mill as a shaper. Take
off about .002" per pass using the downfeed handle. Royal pain on the
arm, I'm sure it is not much better on the mill.

Tom wrote:
Jerry Foster wrote:

"gtslabs" wrote in message
groups.com...

I am making an attachment to my knee mill height hand crank. I drilled
a hole in a rod to match the diameter of the crank shaft. However there
is a keyway that I need to mill out of my adaptor on the INSIDE
Diameter. I dont see a Woodruff cutter working in this 5/8" hole.
I can mill it but it will not have square corners. What is needed to
get the square slot?
Thanks
Steve


..................
But, for a "one shot" deal, you can use the mill as a shaper. Run an end
mill down through it to get it to the right width and depth. Then take a
boring bar or grind a piece of drill rod to make an appropriate cutter and
chuck it in the mill. Put the mill into back gear, if it has one. Rotate
the mill to position the cutter (easy if you can get at the belts...) and
then use the quill feed to drive the cutter down through the work, cutting
out the corners. Use the table feed to move the work for successive cuts.

You can do the same thing with the lathe, holding the work in the chuck and
driving the boring bar with the carriage feed.

Jerry



I don't think so, Jerry!



  #6   Report Post  
Wild Bill
 
Posts: n/a
Default

For a hand crank application, you might find it suitable to make the boached
hole using 2 pieces.
The crank shaft could be drilled or bored to the diameter of the exposed key
height (shaft dia + key height).

If you choose a section of tubing which fits the shaft diameter, that's got
the same wall thickness as the exposed height of the key, it can be slotted
to the key width. This tubing section would fit the crank shaft like a
slotted bushing.

Use any number of methods to secure the slotted tube into the hand crank
shaft cavity (which would be the diameter of the shaft plus the key height).
Weld, plug weld thru holes, pin, set screws etc.

WB
................

"gtslabs" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am making an attachment to my knee mill height hand crank. I drilled
a hole in a rod to match the diameter of the crank shaft. However there
is a keyway that I need to mill out of my adaptor on the INSIDE
Diameter. I dont see a Woodruff cutter working in this 5/8" hole.
I can mill it but it will not have square corners. What is needed to
get the square slot?
Thanks
Steve





----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----
  #7   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default



gtslabs wrote:
I am making an attachment to my knee mill height hand crank. I drilled
a hole in a rod to match the diameter of the crank shaft. However there
is a keyway that I need to mill out of my adaptor on the INSIDE
Diameter. I dont see a Woodruff cutter working in this 5/8" hole.
I can mill it but it will not have square corners. What is needed to
get the square slot?
Thanks
Steve


I'm assuming it's a thru hole and key thru.

plunge out with endmill or plug and drill.

mount in vice, file the corners.

sjm1

  #8   Report Post  
Tom
 
Posts: n/a
Default

machineman wrote:

Tom wrote:
Jerry Foster wrote:

"gtslabs" wrote in message
groups.com...

I am making an attachment to my knee mill height hand crank. I drilled
a hole in a rod to match the diameter of the crank shaft. However there
is a keyway that I need to mill out of my adaptor on the INSIDE
Diameter. I dont see a Woodruff cutter working in this 5/8" hole.
I can mill it but it will not have square corners. What is needed to
get the square slot?
Thanks
Steve


..................
But, for a "one shot" deal, you can use the mill as a shaper. Run an end
mill down through it to get it to the right width and depth. Then take a
boring bar or grind a piece of drill rod to make an appropriate cutter and
chuck it in the mill. Put the mill into back gear, if it has one. Rotate
the mill to position the cutter (easy if you can get at the belts...) and
then use the quill feed to drive the cutter down through the work, cutting
out the corners. Use the table feed to move the work for successive cuts.

You can do the same thing with the lathe, holding the work in the chuck and
driving the boring bar with the carriage feed.

Jerry



I don't think so, Jerry!

Have you tried it? I have seen it done quite often on the lathe. While
it works better in aluminum and brass, you can use the lathe for small
or odd sized keyways. A broach or shaper is preferred but one has to be
adaptable and use whats on hand. I would not want to do it on a daily
basis, as it is time consuming.


"Driving the boring bar with the carriage feed?" Yep when boring a hole.
To use the carriage feed requires the chuck rotating..

If you mean using the "carriage hand wheel" to reciprocate the carriage
rather than the carriage feed? Then yes, many times.
  #9   Report Post  
jim rozen
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article , Tom says...

"Driving the boring bar with the carriage feed?" Yep when boring a hole.
To use the carriage feed requires the chuck rotating..

If you mean using the "carriage hand wheel" to reciprocate the carriage
rather than the carriage feed? Then yes, many times.


Carrige feed in this context obviously means using the
longitutinal feed for the carriage, aka handwheel.

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================
  #10   Report Post  
jim rozen
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article .com, gtslabs
says...

... What is needed to
get the square slot?


Another approach is to not use the keyway on the existing
shaft. You could:

Cross drill for a taper pin, or

Machine the shaft and handle for a 'dutchman' which
is a round key. The idea is you assemble the shaft
to the hub, and drill the face of the assembly,
centered at the parting line between the two. A
tight fitting round pin is then driven into the
hole.

If you've ever taken apart a southbend crossfeed handle,
you'll know what this technique looks like.

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================


  #11   Report Post  
Randy Replogle
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Sat, 11 Jun 2005 00:49:10 GMT, "Jerry Foster"
wrote:


You can do the same thing with the lathe, holding the work in the chuck and
driving the boring bar with the carriage feed.

Jerry



I've heard about making a gear this way on a Navy ship while at sea.
Indexing must have been a pain!
Randy
  #12   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default



Randy Replogle wrote:
On Sat, 11 Jun 2005 00:49:10 GMT, "Jerry Foster"
wrote:


You can do the same thing with the lathe, holding the work in the chuck and
driving the boring bar with the carriage feed.

Jerry



I've heard about making a gear this way on a Navy ship while at sea.
Indexing must have been a pain!
Randy


Lots of things can be machined this way, though if the load
is heavy it does the handwheel mechanism no good. But what the heck:
for a hobbyist, the lathe will likely outlive him anyway, and refusing
to occasionally do this sort of stuff to preserve his machine just
limits his capabilities or forces him to buy more expensive machinery
or farm the job out.
I've used the method to clean out the insulation between
commutator segments on generators and series-wound motors. Works OK and
doesn't hurt anything.

Dan

  #13   Report Post  
Richard W.
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"jim rozen" wrote in message
...
In article .com,

gtslabs
says...

... What is needed to
get the square slot?


Another approach is to not use the keyway on the existing
shaft. You could:

Cross drill for a taper pin, or

Machine the shaft and handle for a 'dutchman' which
is a round key. The idea is you assemble the shaft
to the hub, and drill the face of the assembly,
centered at the parting line between the two. A
tight fitting round pin is then driven into the
hole.

If you've ever taken apart a southbend crossfeed handle,
you'll know what this technique looks like.

Jim


I have drilled and tapped the hole and used a set screw.

Richard W.


  #14   Report Post  
Tom
 
Posts: n/a
Default

jim rozen wrote:

In article , Tom says...

"Driving the boring bar with the carriage feed?" Yep when boring a hole.
To use the carriage feed requires the chuck rotating..

If you mean using the "carriage hand wheel" to reciprocate the carriage
rather than the carriage feed? Then yes, many times.


Carrige feed in this context obviously means using the
longitutinal feed for the carriage, aka handwheel.

Jim

Obviously? Write MS software manuals do you, Jim?

Tom
  #15   Report Post  
Tom Miller
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Tom" wrote in message
...
Jerry Foster wrote:

"gtslabs" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am making an attachment to my knee mill height hand crank. I drilled
a hole in a rod to match the diameter of the crank shaft. However

there
is a keyway that I need to mill out of my adaptor on the INSIDE
Diameter. I dont see a Woodruff cutter working in this 5/8" hole.
I can mill it but it will not have square corners. What is needed to
get the square slot?
Thanks
Steve

..................
But, for a "one shot" deal, you can use the mill as a shaper. Run an

end
mill down through it to get it to the right width and depth. Then take

a
boring bar or grind a piece of drill rod to make an appropriate cutter

and
chuck it in the mill. Put the mill into back gear, if it has one.

Rotate
the mill to position the cutter (easy if you can get at the belts...)

and
then use the quill feed to drive the cutter down through the work,

cutting
out the corners. Use the table feed to move the work for successive

cuts.

You can do the same thing with the lathe, holding the work in the chuck

and
driving the boring bar with the carriage feed.

Jerry


I don't think so, Jerry!


I think so Tom! I've done it quite a few times. If you don't have a key
broaching machine our Minuteman broaches, this is about the only
alternative. Its slow and hard work, but if you have half a plant,and fifty
employees waiting for a pump that requires keyway, then you just do it.

Tom Miller




  #16   Report Post  
Tom Miller
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Tom" wrote in message
...
machineman wrote:

Tom wrote:
Jerry Foster wrote:

"gtslabs" wrote in message
groups.com...

I am making an attachment to my knee mill height hand crank. I

drilled
a hole in a rod to match the diameter of the crank shaft. However

there
is a keyway that I need to mill out of my adaptor on the INSIDE
Diameter. I dont see a Woodruff cutter working in this 5/8" hole.
I can mill it but it will not have square corners. What is needed to
get the square slot?
Thanks
Steve


..................
But, for a "one shot" deal, you can use the mill as a shaper. Run an

end
mill down through it to get it to the right width and depth. Then

take a
boring bar or grind a piece of drill rod to make an appropriate cutter

and
chuck it in the mill. Put the mill into back gear, if it has one.

Rotate
the mill to position the cutter (easy if you can get at the belts...)

and
then use the quill feed to drive the cutter down through the work,

cutting
out the corners. Use the table feed to move the work for successive

cuts.

You can do the same thing with the lathe, holding the work in the

chuck and
driving the boring bar with the carriage feed.

Jerry


I don't think so, Jerry!

Have you tried it? I have seen it done quite often on the lathe. While
it works better in aluminum and brass, you can use the lathe for small
or odd sized keyways. A broach or shaper is preferred but one has to be
adaptable and use whats on hand. I would not want to do it on a daily
basis, as it is time consuming.


"Driving the boring bar with the carriage feed?" Yep when boring a hole.
To use the carriage feed requires the chuck rotating..

If you mean using the "carriage hand wheel" to reciprocate the carriage
rather than the carriage feed? Then yes, many times.


Who gives a **** what you call it. Just get on with the job!


  #17   Report Post  
Tom Miller
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"jim rozen" wrote in message
...
In article .com,

gtslabs
says...

... What is needed to
get the square slot?


Another approach is to not use the keyway on the existing
shaft. You could:

Cross drill for a taper pin, or

Machine the shaft and handle for a 'dutchman' which
is a round key. The idea is you assemble the shaft
to the hub, and drill the face of the assembly,
centered at the parting line between the two. A
tight fitting round pin is then driven into the
hole.


Here in Auz,they usually call that a "Scotch key".They tap the hole and put
a grub screw into it so that it can be removed if necessary


  #18   Report Post  
Tom Miller
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Randy Replogle" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 11 Jun 2005 00:49:10 GMT, "Jerry Foster"
wrote:


You can do the same thing with the lathe, holding the work in the chuck

and
driving the boring bar with the carriage feed.

Jerry



I've heard about making a gear this way on a Navy ship while at sea.
Indexing must have been a pain!
Randy


Indexing is usually done in this trick by putting a wedge between the teeth
of the gear on the lathe spindle. If you want some multiple of teeth that
isn't divisible by the number of teeth on the gear, then tough luck!


  #19   Report Post  
Tom
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Tom Miller wrote:

"Tom" wrote in message
...
Jerry Foster wrote:

"gtslabs" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am making an attachment to my knee mill height hand crank. I drilled
a hole in a rod to match the diameter of the crank shaft. However

there
is a keyway that I need to mill out of my adaptor on the INSIDE
Diameter. I dont see a Woodruff cutter working in this 5/8" hole.
I can mill it but it will not have square corners. What is needed to
get the square slot?
Thanks
Steve

..................
But, for a "one shot" deal, you can use the mill as a shaper. Run an

end
mill down through it to get it to the right width and depth. Then take

a
boring bar or grind a piece of drill rod to make an appropriate cutter

and
chuck it in the mill. Put the mill into back gear, if it has one.

Rotate
the mill to position the cutter (easy if you can get at the belts...)

and
then use the quill feed to drive the cutter down through the work,

cutting
out the corners. Use the table feed to move the work for successive

cuts.

You can do the same thing with the lathe, holding the work in the chuck

and
driving the boring bar with the carriage feed.

Jerry


I don't think so, Jerry!


I think so Tom! I've done it quite a few times. If you don't have a key
broaching machine our Minuteman broaches, this is about the only
alternative. Its slow and hard work, but if you have half a plant,and fifty
employees waiting for a pump that requires keyway, then you just do it.

Tom Miller


Quite the oz hero, Tom, pity about your English comprehension.
  #20   Report Post  
Tom
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Tom Miller wrote:

"Tom" wrote in message
...
machineman wrote:

Tom wrote:
Jerry Foster wrote:

"gtslabs" wrote in message
groups.com...

I am making an attachment to my knee mill height hand crank. I

drilled
a hole in a rod to match the diameter of the crank shaft. However

there
is a keyway that I need to mill out of my adaptor on the INSIDE
Diameter. I dont see a Woodruff cutter working in this 5/8" hole.
I can mill it but it will not have square corners. What is needed to
get the square slot?
Thanks
Steve


..................
But, for a "one shot" deal, you can use the mill as a shaper. Run an

end
mill down through it to get it to the right width and depth. Then

take a
boring bar or grind a piece of drill rod to make an appropriate cutter

and
chuck it in the mill. Put the mill into back gear, if it has one.

Rotate
the mill to position the cutter (easy if you can get at the belts...)

and
then use the quill feed to drive the cutter down through the work,

cutting
out the corners. Use the table feed to move the work for successive

cuts.

You can do the same thing with the lathe, holding the work in the

chuck and
driving the boring bar with the carriage feed.

Jerry


I don't think so, Jerry!
Have you tried it? I have seen it done quite often on the lathe. While
it works better in aluminum and brass, you can use the lathe for small
or odd sized keyways. A broach or shaper is preferred but one has to be
adaptable and use whats on hand. I would not want to do it on a daily
basis, as it is time consuming.


"Driving the boring bar with the carriage feed?" Yep when boring a hole.
To use the carriage feed requires the chuck rotating..

If you mean using the "carriage hand wheel" to reciprocate the carriage
rather than the carriage feed? Then yes, many times.


Who gives a **** what you call it. Just get on with the job!


Perhaps the person who asked the original question?
Not everyone shares your slapdash approach to accuracy.


  #21   Report Post  
Ken Sterling
 
Posts: n/a
Default

machineman wrote:

Tom wrote:
Jerry Foster wrote:

"gtslabs" wrote in message
groups.com...

I am making an attachment to my knee mill height hand crank. I drilled
a hole in a rod to match the diameter of the crank shaft. However there
is a keyway that I need to mill out of my adaptor on the INSIDE
Diameter. I dont see a Woodruff cutter working in this 5/8" hole.
I can mill it but it will not have square corners. What is needed to
get the square slot?
Thanks
Steve


..................
But, for a "one shot" deal, you can use the mill as a shaper. Run an end
mill down through it to get it to the right width and depth. Then take a
boring bar or grind a piece of drill rod to make an appropriate cutter and
chuck it in the mill. Put the mill into back gear, if it has one. Rotate
the mill to position the cutter (easy if you can get at the belts...) and
then use the quill feed to drive the cutter down through the work, cutting
out the corners. Use the table feed to move the work for successive cuts.

You can do the same thing with the lathe, holding the work in the chuck and
driving the boring bar with the carriage feed.

Jerry


I don't think so, Jerry!

Have you tried it? I have seen it done quite often on the lathe. While
it works better in aluminum and brass, you can use the lathe for small
or odd sized keyways. A broach or shaper is preferred but one has to be
adaptable and use whats on hand. I would not want to do it on a daily
basis, as it is time consuming.


"Driving the boring bar with the carriage feed?" Yep when boring a hole.
To use the carriage feed requires the chuck rotating..

If you mean using the "carriage hand wheel" to reciprocate the carriage
rather than the carriage feed? Then yes, many times.


Let's see....ummmm.... ya got a compound feed (with a
handwheel/crank), and ya got a crossslide feed (with a handwheel/crank
or under power), and ya got yer basic carriage feed (with a
handwheel/crank or under power). So, Tom, are you telling me that you
*can't* move the carriage on your lathe *without* the chuck
spinning??? Maybe you ought to disengage the half-nuts and try
something new....
Ken.

  #22   Report Post  
John Martin
 
Posts: n/a
Default



gtslabs wrote:
I am making an attachment to my knee mill height hand crank. I drilled
a hole in a rod to match the diameter of the crank shaft. However there
is a keyway that I need to mill out of my adaptor on the INSIDE
Diameter. I dont see a Woodruff cutter working in this 5/8" hole.
I can mill it but it will not have square corners. What is needed to
get the square slot?
Thanks
Steve


Another option would be to make your own broach and bushing. HSM had
an article on that quite a few years ago, and I made one to do a keyway
job. It worked well.

The bushing is simply a piece turned to fit the bore, with a shoulder
to keep it from dropping through and a milled slot to take the broach.

The broach is a single-tooth one, easily made with a mill and file. I
didn't have any tool steel of the right size handy, so made mine from
low carbon steel and case hardened it. Works fine.

The main difference between this and a commercial broach and bushing is
that the commercial broach has many teeth set progresively deeper, and
can often make the keyway in one pass. With the single-point broach,
you need a bunch of shims. Make a pass, add or change shims, make
another pass....

With the single-point cutter, you don't want any side clearance, so
that the cutter will make and follow a straight slot. Top clearance
only.

John Martin

  #23   Report Post  
Ken Sterling
 
Posts: n/a
Default



gtslabs wrote:
I am making an attachment to my knee mill height hand crank. I drilled
a hole in a rod to match the diameter of the crank shaft. However there
is a keyway that I need to mill out of my adaptor on the INSIDE
Diameter. I dont see a Woodruff cutter working in this 5/8" hole.
I can mill it but it will not have square corners. What is needed to
get the square slot?
Thanks
Steve


Another option would be to make your own broach and bushing. HSM had
an article on that quite a few years ago, and I made one to do a keyway
job. It worked well.

The bushing is simply a piece turned to fit the bore, with a shoulder
to keep it from dropping through and a milled slot to take the broach.

The broach is a single-tooth one, easily made with a mill and file. I
didn't have any tool steel of the right size handy, so made mine from
low carbon steel and case hardened it. Works fine.

The main difference between this and a commercial broach and bushing is
that the commercial broach has many teeth set progresively deeper, and
can often make the keyway in one pass. With the single-point broach,
you need a bunch of shims. Make a pass, add or change shims, make
another pass....

With the single-point cutter, you don't want any side clearance, so
that the cutter will make and follow a straight slot. Top clearance
only.

John Martin

Interesting, John. Did you use an arbor press, vise, or what to press
the cutter through? Were there any specs (that you remember of)
concerning the "height" of the cutter/and the bar stock the cutter is
milled into? (or the depth of the slot into the bushing?) Thanks.
Ken.

  #24   Report Post  
jim rozen
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article , Tom says...

Carrige feed in this context obviously means using the
longitudinal feed for the carriage, aka handwheel.


Obviously? Write MS software manuals do you, Jim?


What's software.

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================
  #25   Report Post  
Tom
 
Posts: n/a
Default

jim rozen wrote:

In article , Tom says...

Carrige feed in this context obviously means using the
longitudinal feed for the carriage, aka handwheel.


Obviously? Write MS software manuals do you, Jim?


What's software.

Jim

In a metalworking context?
Digital stuff that protects chucks from hardware such as bone.


  #26   Report Post  
John Martin
 
Posts: n/a
Default



Ken Sterling wrote:



Interesting, John. Did you use an arbor press, vise, or what to press
the cutter through? Were there any specs (that you remember of)
concerning the "height" of the cutter/and the bar stock the cutter is
milled into? (or the depth of the slot into the bushing?) Thanks.
Ken.


I believe that I used an arbor press. That isn't critical, though, as
the force needed to drive the single point cutter isn't very great.
The pulley that I keyed was aluminum, but I don't think steel would
have been that much more of a problem. My arbor press is an old
Greenerd #1 which is rated at 1/4 ton. While I suspect I often
overload it, it didn't require a huge amount of pressure to cut the
keyway. A multi-toothed broach would have required much more pressure.

Made and used this cutter maybe 15 years ago, so I can't remember the
specs. But I still have it, so I measured.

Pulley bore .875", bushing turned to a close sliding fit. Keyway and
cutter tooth width .1875". The cutter is actually a piece of .500"
square stock, milled to that .1875" width, centered, for the top .25"
or so. Profile is like that of a nut for a T slot.

There is no good reason to make the cutter that T profile rather than
simply to the width of the keyway. All I had for a mill at that time
was a milling column on a Sherline, which was not the greatest at heavy
cuts in steel. And it gave me a better finish on the bottom of the
slot than the sides. So I opted to use a wider bottom rather than the
sides of the slot to keep the cutter from rocking.

The single tooth is no wider than the body of the cutter is at the top,
so there is no side clearange or side rake. The cutting edge is proud
of the top surface of the cutter by .014", both in front of and behind
the tooth. The top surface of the tooth has 2 degree clearance. The
front of the tooth is at 72 degrees - 18 degrees of rake. The front
and top of the tooth were lightly stoned after hardening.

The overall length of the cutter is about 4", but only the first 2"
have the leg of the T sticking up. The tooth is about centered in the
2" T section, with the long tail behind it allowing it to be pressed
completely through the workpiece.

With my cutter having such a wide base, the slot is obviously milled
deep into the bushing. Deeper than it has to be, as I used a lot of
shims. If you use a cutter the width of the keyway, a deep slot will
better prevent any twisting of the cutter. As above, mine relied more
in the wide bottom for that.

Hope this helps,

John Martin

  #27   Report Post  
Herb
 
Posts: n/a
Default

It's called a broach.

  #28   Report Post  
Ken Sterling
 
Posts: n/a
Default



Ken Sterling wrote:



Interesting, John. Did you use an arbor press, vise, or what to press
the cutter through? Were there any specs (that you remember of)
concerning the "height" of the cutter/and the bar stock the cutter is
milled into? (or the depth of the slot into the bushing?) Thanks.
Ken.


I believe that I used an arbor press. That isn't critical, though, as
the force needed to drive the single point cutter isn't very great.
The pulley that I keyed was aluminum, but I don't think steel would
have been that much more of a problem. My arbor press is an old
Greenerd #1 which is rated at 1/4 ton. While I suspect I often
overload it, it didn't require a huge amount of pressure to cut the
keyway. A multi-toothed broach would have required much more pressure.

Made and used this cutter maybe 15 years ago, so I can't remember the
specs. But I still have it, so I measured.

Pulley bore .875", bushing turned to a close sliding fit. Keyway and
cutter tooth width .1875". The cutter is actually a piece of .500"
square stock, milled to that .1875" width, centered, for the top .25"
or so. Profile is like that of a nut for a T slot.

There is no good reason to make the cutter that T profile rather than
simply to the width of the keyway. All I had for a mill at that time
was a milling column on a Sherline, which was not the greatest at heavy
cuts in steel. And it gave me a better finish on the bottom of the
slot than the sides. So I opted to use a wider bottom rather than the
sides of the slot to keep the cutter from rocking.

The single tooth is no wider than the body of the cutter is at the top,
so there is no side clearange or side rake. The cutting edge is proud
of the top surface of the cutter by .014", both in front of and behind
the tooth. The top surface of the tooth has 2 degree clearance. The
front of the tooth is at 72 degrees - 18 degrees of rake. The front
and top of the tooth were lightly stoned after hardening.

The overall length of the cutter is about 4", but only the first 2"
have the leg of the T sticking up. The tooth is about centered in the
2" T section, with the long tail behind it allowing it to be pressed
completely through the workpiece.

With my cutter having such a wide base, the slot is obviously milled
deep into the bushing. Deeper than it has to be, as I used a lot of
shims. If you use a cutter the width of the keyway, a deep slot will
better prevent any twisting of the cutter. As above, mine relied more
in the wide bottom for that.

Hope this helps,

John Martin

Thanks! Good info. Question tho... If I'm picturing this correctly,
you would mill a slot in the bushing the full depth of the cutter bar
(broach) and then start slipping shims under it for each pass? This
is assuming using a rectangular cutter bar instead of the "T" shape.
The "bushing" then could be solid with no hole through the center???
Thanks.
Ken.

  #29   Report Post  
John Martin
 
Posts: n/a
Default



Ken Sterling wrote:


Thanks! Good info. Question tho... If I'm picturing this correctly,
you would mill a slot in the bushing the full depth of the cutter bar
(broach) and then start slipping shims under it for each pass? This
is assuming using a rectangular cutter bar instead of the "T" shape.
The "bushing" then could be solid with no hole through the center???
Thanks.
Ken.


You are picturing it correctly. The bushing is indeed solid. The
slot, on mine, goes deeper than the center of the bushing.

If you look at the keyway broach sets sold by MSC and others, you'll
see good illustrations of the bushings and broaches. The only
difference with a single-tooth broach is that, since you can't expect
that one tooth to cut to full depth in one pass, you use shims and take
many passes, adding to the shim thickness with eack pass.

John Martin

  #30   Report Post  
Ken Sterling
 
Posts: n/a
Default



Ken Sterling wrote:


Thanks! Good info. Question tho... If I'm picturing this correctly,
you would mill a slot in the bushing the full depth of the cutter bar
(broach) and then start slipping shims under it for each pass? This
is assuming using a rectangular cutter bar instead of the "T" shape.
The "bushing" then could be solid with no hole through the center???
Thanks.
Ken.


You are picturing it correctly. The bushing is indeed solid. The
slot, on mine, goes deeper than the center of the bushing.

If you look at the keyway broach sets sold by MSC and others, you'll
see good illustrations of the bushings and broaches. The only
difference with a single-tooth broach is that, since you can't expect
that one tooth to cut to full depth in one pass, you use shims and take
many passes, adding to the shim thickness with eack pass.

John Martin

Gotcha. Thanks again, John
Ken.

Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Removing bead inside square tubing carl mciver Metalworking 21 May 7th 05 07:17 AM
Telescoping square tubes for e-wheel adjuster? Richard Ferguson Metalworking 5 December 20th 04 02:50 AM
Electrical service question - old house, new addition - expert advice needed major domo Home Repair 4 November 20th 03 11:39 PM
Quality of a Square? Bluetobb Woodworking 12 September 14th 03 12:04 AM
Basics on Depth of Cuts Chris S Metalworking 10 September 2nd 03 04:15 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 02:28 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"