This is the top of my Bilco cellar door. The horizontal line is the area where the hidden hinge lies. If i scrape those little bubbles, some would reveal holes that I would like to weld or whatever it takes to cover them. Someone told me about a Bond agent that one can get at Lowes, and I did a search and I do not know what to get. local welders refuse to do this small job, so I guess I have to do it myself. Any suggestions would be helpful.


a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"img src="http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q386/Novel8/Capture_zps98878e12.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Capture_zps98878e12.jpg"//a

On Mon, 22 Sep 2014 13:06:29 -0700 (PDT), Frank
wrote:

This is the top of my Bilco cellar door. The horizontal line is the area where the hidden hinge lies. If i scrape those little bubbles, some would reveal holes that I would like to weld or whatever it takes to cover them. Someone told me about a Bond agent that one can get at Lowes, and I did a search and I do not know what to get. local welders refuse to do this small job, so I guess I have to do it myself. Any suggestions would be helpful.


Link fixed.

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q386/Novel8/Capture_zps98878e12.jpg
Frank,

Difficult to tell from your photo; it reminds me of rust under the
paint. Perhaps a wire bush in a drill to clean down to shiny metal.

Then I'd try a rust neutralizer, from Loctite, coat the metal and
allow it to cure. The metal will turn black. Then apply new paint.

HD will have Loctite EXTEND Rust Neutralizer. It converts light rust
to a paintable surface.

YMMV.

On Monday, September 22, 2014 4:46:03 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 22 Sep 2014 13:06:29 -0700 (PDT), Frank

wrote:



This is the top of my Bilco cellar door. The horizontal line is the area where the hidden hinge lies. If i scrape those little bubbles, some would reveal holes that I would like to weld or whatever it takes to cover them. Someone told me about a Bond agent that one can get at Lowes, and I did a search and I do not know what to get. local welders refuse to do this small job, so I guess I have to do it myself. Any suggestions would be helpful.





Link fixed.



http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q386/Novel8/Capture_zps98878e12.jpg

Frank,



Difficult to tell from your photo; it reminds me of rust under the

paint. Perhaps a wire bush in a drill to clean down to shiny metal.



Then I'd try a rust neutralizer, from Loctite, coat the metal and

allow it to cure. The metal will turn black. Then apply new paint.



HD will have Loctite EXTEND Rust Neutralizer. It converts light rust

to a paintable surface.



YMMV.

I intend to paint, but I have painted continously since i bought it..primed and then paint and still get those bumps. I tried to do light scraping and the first one at the far right exposed a hole through..so I suspect by doing the same to those areas I circled, some more holes will appear. Another person recommended to go to an auto store where they use the same thing on their cars. I don't own a car so I do not know exactly what they are talking about, but I guess the guys at the store do.

On 9/22/2014 4:06 PM, Frank wrote:
This is the top of my Bilco cellar door. The horizontal line is the area where the hidden hinge lies. If i scrape those little bubbles, some would reveal holes that I would like to weld or whatever it takes to cover them. Someone told me about a Bond agent that one can get at Lowes, and I did a search and I do not know what to get. local welders refuse to do this small job, so I guess I have to do it myself. Any suggestions would be helpful.


a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"img src="http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q386/Novel8/Capture_zps98878e12.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Capture_zps98878e12.jpg"//a

My first thought is rust, under the paint. How's
about some wire wheel action, maybe some sand
paper. Prime, paint, see if that lasts.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/22/2014 7:01 PM, Frank wrote:

I intend to paint, but I have painted continously
since i bought it..primed and then paint and still
get those bumps. I tried to do light scraping and
the first one at the far right exposed a hole through.
so I suspect by doing the same to those areas I
circled, some more holes will appear. Another person
recommended to go to an auto store where they use the
same thing on their cars. I don't own a car so I do
not know exactly what they are talking about, but I
guess the guys at the store do.


I do drive, and hate it when i sand and wire brush
and paint. It all rots out in a year or so.

Never ending struggle against rust.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Mon, 22 Sep 2014 16:01:58 -0700 (PDT), Frank
wrote:

On Monday, September 22, 2014 4:46:03 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 22 Sep 2014 13:06:29 -0700 (PDT), Frank

wrote:



This is the top of my Bilco cellar door. The horizontal line is the area where the hidden hinge lies. If i scrape those little bubbles, some would reveal holes that I would like to weld or whatever it takes to cover them. Someone told me about a Bond agent that one can get at Lowes, and I did a search and I do not know what to get. local welders refuse to do this small job, so I guess I have to do it myself. Any suggestions would be helpful.





Link fixed.



http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q386/Novel8/Capture_zps98878e12.jpg

Frank,



Difficult to tell from your photo; it reminds me of rust under the

paint. Perhaps a wire bush in a drill to clean down to shiny metal.



Then I'd try a rust neutralizer, from Loctite, coat the metal and

allow it to cure. The metal will turn black. Then apply new paint.



HD will have Loctite EXTEND Rust Neutralizer. It converts light rust

to a paintable surface.



YMMV.

I intend to paint, but I have painted continously since i bought it..primed and then paint and still get those bumps. I tried to do light scraping and the first one at the far right exposed a hole through..so I suspect by doing the same to those areas I circled, some more holes will appear.

You seem to be ignoring what Oren just told you. First you apply the
Extend. I don't know if other companies make the same thing. (Is it
still under patent?)

Another person recommended to go to an auto store where they use the same thing on their cars.

I was going to suggest the same thing. I don't know if HD really has it
but auto parts stores do. (Like black GE silicone in a tube (not a
caulking cylinder) HD has other colors but only auto parts stores have
black.

I don't own a car so I do not know exactly what they are talking about, but I guess the guys at the store do.

Well, it's called Extend.

And fwiw, it used to be in a funny looking little bottle.

On Mon, 22 Sep 2014 21:48:27 -0400, micky
wrote:

I don't own a car so I do not know exactly what they are talking about, but I guess the guys at the store do.

Well, it's called Extend.

In the days of yore folks used Naval Jelly. Loctite bought the patent
I believe, and you can't get NJ now.

The Loctite EXTEND is and excellent product. Once it cures do not
sand it or break the surface back to bare metal. You can paint right
over it.

Take one hinge off at a time. Use a bench grinder wire wheel to clean
the hinge down to bare metal. Brush the extend on with a cheap sponge
brush and let it cure - then paint.

I did buy it at the auto parts store, now that I think about it, and
not at HD.

On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 10:11:37 AM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 22 Sep 2014 21:48:27 -0400, micky

wrote:



I don't own a car so I do not know exactly what they are talking about, but I guess the guys at the store do.



Well, it's called Extend.



In the days of yore folks used Naval Jelly. Loctite bought the patent

I believe, and you can't get NJ now.



The Loctite EXTEND is and excellent product. Once it cures do not

sand it or break the surface back to bare metal. You can paint right

over it.



Take one hinge off at a time. Use a bench grinder wire wheel to clean

the hinge down to bare metal. Brush the extend on with a cheap sponge

brush and let it cure - then paint.



I did buy it at the auto parts store, now that I think about it, and

not at HD.

Will this "Extend" cover up holes after wire brushing those bumps? Also, what is this about "BlacK"? If it all turns out all right what difference the color make ..i will paint over it, regardless.

On Tue, 23 Sep 2014 07:11:37 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 22 Sep 2014 21:48:27 -0400, micky
wrote:

I don't own a car so I do not know exactly what they are talking about, but I guess the guys at the store do.

Well, it's called Extend.

In the days of yore folks used Naval Jelly. Loctite bought the patent
I believe, and you can't get NJ now.

I still have some NJ. I used it and didn't like it. It didnt' do much.
Trying to give it the benefit of the doubt, just maybe I used it when it
wasn't meant to be used. I can't remember the details.

I also think i have from a yard sale or something half a bottle of
aluminum jelly, like NJ but for aluminim. Have't used that.

The Loctite EXTEND is and excellent product. Once it cures do not
sand it or break the surface back to bare metal. You can paint right
over it.

Yes, I've used it once and it did just what it claimed.

Take one hinge off at a time. Use a bench grinder wire wheel to clean
the hinge down to bare metal. Brush the extend on with a cheap sponge
brush and let it cure - then paint.

I did buy it at the auto parts store, now that I think about it, and
not at HD.

Good to know.

On Tue, 23 Sep 2014 15:34:27 -0700 (PDT), Frank
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 10:11:37 AM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 22 Sep 2014 21:48:27 -0400, micky

wrote:



I don't own a car so I do not know exactly what they are talking about, but I guess the guys at the store do.



Well, it's called Extend.



In the days of yore folks used Naval Jelly. Loctite bought the patent

I believe, and you can't get NJ now.



The Loctite EXTEND is and excellent product. Once it cures do not

sand it or break the surface back to bare metal. You can paint right

over it.



Take one hinge off at a time. Use a bench grinder wire wheel to clean

the hinge down to bare metal. Brush the extend on with a cheap sponge

brush and let it cure - then paint.



I did buy it at the auto parts store, now that I think about it, and

not at HD.

Will this "Extend" cover up holes after wire brushing those bumps? Also, what is this about "BlacK"? If it all turns out all right what difference the color make ..i will paint over it, regardless.

Pinholes probably but much bigger than that, I don't think so. Bondo?
Actually there are lots of fillers for little holes, which iirc often go
on smoother and are easy (easier?) to work with, in smaller containers
that don't cost as much as a big can of Bondo. Is Bondo sold in little
containers . I think Bondo made its reputation with big or wide dents.

But bear in mind I don't do body work. I can't make a straight line or
a nicely curved line, so if I tried, it would come out bad.

On Tue, 23 Sep 2014 15:34:27 -0700 (PDT), Frank
wrote:

Will this "Extend" cover up holes after wire brushing those bumps? Also, what is this about "BlacK"? If it all turns out all right what difference the color make ..i will paint over it, regardless.

When the EXTEND rust neutralizer is cured, it just turns black -
indication that the rust has been converted, thus helping to prevent
further rust. Basically is seals out moisture.

If the holes are small and not completely through the metal, consider
"glazing putty". GP is used in auto body work to fill minor
imperfections in Bondo work.

Bondo® Glazing and Spot Putty is one example but there are other
brands used...

"Bondo® Glazing and Spot Putty is a 1-part putty that fills
imperfections, pinholes in body filler, scratches, paint chips and
minor dings. Can be used with other auto body repair materials.
Sandable in only 30 minutes."

http://3mauto.com/bondo-glazing-spot-putty-907.html

On Wed, 24 Sep 2014 01:43:27 -0400, micky
wrote:

In the days of yore folks used Naval Jelly. Loctite bought the patent
I believe, and you can't get NJ now.

I still have some NJ. I used it and didn't like it. It didnt' do much.
Trying to give it the benefit of the doubt, just maybe I used it when it
wasn't meant to be used. I can't remember the details.

Generally, NJ was used in minor rust problems, like hand saws by
carpenters. Cleaned off with turpentine and oil applied to the saw
blades. They made a living taking care of hand saws.

PS: Never leave grandfather's hand saw out in the lawn. You might have
to be taught a lesson about surface rust. BTDT