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Default Ideas to remove middle decking boards?

I'm in the process of replacing 1/2 my decking boards with new 5/4 x 6
boards. It works out to half the width of the deck measured side to
side. Where the old and the new meet I'll be intermingling the old
and new boards with a 32" intersection (kind of like putting ones
fingers together). The old decking used concealed fasteners (which I
hated). My question is: any ideas how I can cut the old decking
board midway across a joist without destroying the adjacent two?

A sabre saw needs space below the board; a circular saw won't cut to
the edge; an ocillating tool doesnt really make a straight line; etc.

Any ideas suggestions appreciated.

tired old man!!!
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Default Ideas to remove middle decking boards?

On 7/5/2014 2:40 PM, BobMCT wrote:
I'm in the process of replacing 1/2 my decking boards with new 5/4 x 6
boards. It works out to half the width of the deck measured side to
side. Where the old and the new meet I'll be intermingling the old
and new boards with a 32" intersection (kind of like putting ones
fingers together). The old decking used concealed fasteners (which I
hated). My question is: any ideas how I can cut the old decking
board midway across a joist without destroying the adjacent two?

A sabre saw needs space below the board; a circular saw won't cut to
the edge; an ocillating tool doesnt really make a straight line; etc.

Any ideas suggestions appreciated.


Use the circular saw to get as far as can; then cut thru and remove the
bad side to the some access. Then clean up w/ whatever you've
got...with care it can be down w/ a Sawzall, a multi-tool, while slow
will certainly clean up a cut, or even if there aren't too many, a good
sharp chisel will do wonders.

With care a pattern bit and router could be used as well...

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Default Ideas to remove middle decking boards?

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BobMCT typed:
I'm in the process of replacing 1/2 my decking boards with new 5/4 x 6
boards. It works out to half the width of the deck measured side to
side. Where the old and the new meet I'll be intermingling the old
and new boards with a 32" intersection (kind of like putting ones
fingers together). The old decking used concealed fasteners (which I
hated). My question is: any ideas how I can cut the old decking
board midway across a joist without destroying the adjacent two?

A sabre saw needs space below the board; a circular saw won't cut to
the edge; an oscillating tool doesn't really make a straight line; etc.

Any ideas suggestions appreciated.

tired old man!!!


If you have access from underneath ---, maybe you could use a sabre saw and
just cut the old decking boards off even with the edge of the joists below
rather than trying to cut them off in the center of the joist below. Cut
those boards off from above, then put a sister joist along that same joist
from underneath and use the sister joist as the nailer board for the new
boards that you are adding. That would be easier than worrying about having
both boards land on the center of one existing joist.

Even if you don't have access from underneath, you may be able to figure out
a way to nail sister pieces along the existing joist by dropping them
through the half of the deck that you are replacing, pulling them up in
place from above, and nailing them through the spaces where the "finger
spaces" are located.


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Default Ideas to remove middle decking boards?

BobMCT wrote:
I'm in the process of replacing 1/2 my decking boards with new 5/4 x 6
boards. It works out to half the width of the deck measured side to
side. Where the old and the new meet I'll be intermingling the old
and new boards with a 32" intersection (kind of like putting ones
fingers together). The old decking used concealed fasteners (which I
hated). My question is: any ideas how I can cut the old decking
board midway across a joist without destroying the adjacent two?

A sabre saw needs space below the board; a circular saw won't cut to
the edge; an ocillating tool doesnt really make a straight line; etc.


An oscillating tool will cut very straight if run against a straight board edge.
used one to shorten a kitchen cabinet and the joint formewd by the cut edge and
the wood end of the cabinet looked as good as new.


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Default Ideas to remove middle decking boards?

On 07/05/2014 04:53 PM, Bob F wrote:
BobMCT wrote:
I'm in the process of replacing 1/2 my decking boards with new 5/4 x 6
boards. It works out to half the width of the deck measured side to
side. Where the old and the new meet I'll be intermingling the old
and new boards with a 32" intersection (kind of like putting ones
fingers together). The old decking used concealed fasteners (which I
hated). My question is: any ideas how I can cut the old decking
board midway across a joist without destroying the adjacent two?

A sabre saw needs space below the board; a circular saw won't cut to
the edge; an ocillating tool doesnt really make a straight line; etc.


An oscillating tool will cut very straight if run against a straight board edge.
used one to shorten a kitchen cabinet and the joint formewd by the cut edge and
the wood end of the cabinet looked as good as new.



A router with a 1/8" or 3/16" bit?


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Default Ideas to remove middle decking boards?

On Sat, 05 Jul 2014 20:10:30 -0400, Chuck Finley
wrote:

On 07/05/2014 04:53 PM, Bob F wrote:
BobMCT wrote:
I'm in the process of replacing 1/2 my decking boards with new 5/4 x 6
boards. It works out to half the width of the deck measured side to
side. Where the old and the new meet I'll be intermingling the old
and new boards with a 32" intersection (kind of like putting ones
fingers together). The old decking used concealed fasteners (which I
hated). My question is: any ideas how I can cut the old decking
board midway across a joist without destroying the adjacent two?

A sabre saw needs space below the board; a circular saw won't cut to
the edge; an ocillating tool doesnt really make a straight line; etc.


An oscillating tool will cut very straight if run against a straight board edge.
used one to shorten a kitchen cabinet and the joint formewd by the cut edge and
the wood end of the cabinet looked as good as new.



A router with a 1/8" or 3/16" bit?



Wow, thanks Chuck. I have a router w/bit and never thought of that.
Also, the deck is at ground level so unfortunately no way to get under
it. But I like the router idea.

ps: to bad Burn Notice got canceled!!!
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Default Ideas to remove middle decking boards?

On Sat, 05 Jul 2014 15:40:16 -0400, BobMCT
wrote:

I'm in the process of replacing 1/2 my decking boards with new 5/4 x 6
boards. It works out to half the width of the deck measured side to
side. Where the old and the new meet I'll be intermingling the old
and new boards with a 32" intersection (kind of like putting ones
fingers together). The old decking used concealed fasteners (which I
hated). My question is: any ideas how I can cut the old decking
board midway across a joist without destroying the adjacent two?

A sabre saw needs space below the board; a circular saw won't cut to
the edge; an ocillating tool doesnt really make a straight line; etc.

Any ideas suggestions appreciated.

tired old man!!!

Rotozip type cutter. Slow but effective.
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Default Ideas to remove middle decking boards?

BobMCT wrote:
I'm in the process of replacing 1/2 my decking boards with new 5/4 x 6
boards. It works out to half the width of the deck measured side to
side. Where the old and the new meet I'll be intermingling the old
and new boards with a 32" intersection (kind of like putting ones
fingers together). The old decking used concealed fasteners (which I
hated). My question is: any ideas how I can cut the old decking
board midway across a joist without destroying the adjacent two?

A sabre saw needs space below the board; a circular saw won't cut to
the edge; an ocillating tool doesnt really make a straight line; etc.

Any ideas suggestions appreciated.

tired old man!!!


I'm not sure why you say an oscillating tool doesn't make straight line.
I've cut many a straight line with one using various blades: plunge,
straight, and half moon. The main key is to mark a line so that you have a
guide to follow.

If you choose to go the router route, just be sure to compensate for the
width of the bit. You want your guide to be positioned so that the edge of
the bit cuts along your line, not the center of the bit.
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Default Ideas to remove middle decking boards?

"BobMCT" wrote in message

On Sat, 05 Jul 2014 20:10:30 -0400, Chuck Finley
wrote:

On 07/05/2014 04:53 PM, Bob F wrote:
BobMCT wrote:
I'm in the process of replacing 1/2 my decking boards with new 5/4
x 6 boards. It works out to half the width of the deck measured
side to side. Where the old and the new meet I'll be
intermingling the old and new boards with a 32" intersection (kind
of like putting ones fingers together). The old decking used
concealed fasteners (which I hated). My question is: any ideas
how I can cut the old decking board midway across a joist without
destroying the adjacent two?

A sabre saw needs space below the board; a circular saw won't cut
to
the edge; an ocillating tool doesnt really make a straight line;
etc.

An oscillating tool will cut very straight if run against a straight
board edge. used one to shorten a kitchen cabinet and the joint
formewd by the cut edge and the wood end of the cabinet looked as
good as new.



A router with a 1/8" or 3/16" bit?



Wow, thanks Chuck. I have a router w/bit and never thought of that.
Also, the deck is at ground level so unfortunately no way to get under
it. But I like the router idea.


I suspect you'll need something other than a router as the length of the
cutting edge on bits smaller than 1/4 is too short to cut through the
boards. That's true of all the bits I have seen at least.

Maybe one of those zip tools like drywall guys use to cut out inside
electrical boxes?


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dadiOH
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Default Ideas to remove middle decking boards?

On 07/06/2014 08:33 AM, dadiOH wrote:
I suspect you'll need something other than a router as the length of the cutting edge on bits smaller than 1/4 is too short to cut through the boards. That's true of all the bits I have seen at least.


Yah, amateur stores like McLowesDepot prolly doesn't carry long bits but MSC does.

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/58535824


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Default Ideas to remove middle decking boards?

On Sun, 06 Jul 2014 09:19:30 -0400, Chuck Finley
wrote:

On 07/06/2014 08:33 AM, dadiOH wrote:
I suspect you'll need something other than a router as the length of the cutting edge on bits smaller than 1/4 is too short to cut through the boards. That's true of all the bits I have seen at least.


Yah, amateur stores like McLowesDepot prolly doesn't carry long bits but MSC does.

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/58535824



Well gents, I did have a 1/4" straight router bit and tried it. Set
the plunge to limit to the thickness of the old board. Sort of worked
OK. But out of frustration I tried my oscillating tool with a
straight wood blade. Cut almost like butter and I did NOT have any
issues with straightness. I simply followed the lines I had measured
and marked. Finally, as the old decking was held in with concealed
clips nailed into the sides of each board, I used my circ saw to rip
up the center of each board to come out all the way until it met the
perpendicular cut. I could then literally lift each side out from
the middle and discard. Whoa! quite easy and worked great.

Thanks for the suggestions.
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Default Ideas to remove middle decking boards?

On 7/5/2014 3:40 PM, BobMCT wrote:
I'm in the process of replacing 1/2 my decking boards with new 5/4 x 6
boards. It works out to half the width of the deck measured side to
side. Where the old and the new meet I'll be intermingling the old
and new boards with a 32" intersection (kind of like putting ones
fingers together). The old decking used concealed fasteners (which I
hated). My question is: any ideas how I can cut the old decking
board midway across a joist without destroying the adjacent two?

A sabre saw needs space below the board; a circular saw won't cut to
the edge; an ocillating tool doesnt really make a straight line; etc.

Any ideas suggestions appreciated.

tired old man!!!


Drill hole. Use jig saw raised on a shim if the blade is longer than
the board is thick. Looks good on paper ;o)

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