My contractor didn't leave any gaps between fiberon (composite
material) decking boards so now every time it rains my deck holds water
much longer than it should. I've lived with it for 3 years now and
don't feel right about calling him back to fix it though I would like
it fixed.

Best advice I've gotten so far is to use a skill saw between the boards
to open a 1/8" to 1/4" gap between boards. Well there are some 20 foot
runs and keeping the cut straight is difficult to put it mildly.
Already have some funny looking gaps in less prominent areas of the
deck when I tried it this weekend. Would hate to continue like that in
the prominent areas.

So...any advice on making 20 foot and longer cuts with a skill saw on
an installed deck?

Any other ideas for adding the gaps without taking out every board and
replacing with the proper spacing?

HomeDepot has a metal straight Edge used for making cuts with a
circular saw. It is two 6" lengths that clamp down. You may need to
buy three kits to have enough connectors to make a 24" length.

It is pretty rigid so it shouldn't flex over the length of the deck.

c_kubie

wrote:
My contractor didn't leave any gaps between fiberon (composite
material) decking boards so now every time it rains my deck holds water
much longer than it should. I've lived with it for 3 years now and
don't feel right about calling him back to fix it though I would like
it fixed.

Best advice I've gotten so far is to use a skill saw between the boards
to open a 1/8" to 1/4" gap between boards. Well there are some 20 foot
runs and keeping the cut straight is difficult to put it mildly.
Already have some funny looking gaps in less prominent areas of the
deck when I tried it this weekend. Would hate to continue like that in
the prominent areas.

So...any advice on making 20 foot and longer cuts with a skill saw on
an installed deck?

Any other ideas for adding the gaps without taking out every board and
replacing with the proper spacing?

You'd only have to take out every other board and rip them down, round
over the edge, then reinstall. Cutting deck boards in place is a
recipe for disaster. No good will come of it.

R

wrote in message
oups.com...
My contractor didn't leave any gaps between fiberon (composite
material) decking boards so now every time it rains my deck holds water
much longer than it should. I've lived with it for 3 years now and
don't feel right about calling him back to fix it though I would like
it fixed.

Best advice I've gotten so far is to use a skill saw between the boards
to open a 1/8" to 1/4" gap between boards. Well there are some 20 foot
runs and keeping the cut straight is difficult to put it mildly.
Already have some funny looking gaps in less prominent areas of the
deck when I tried it this weekend. Would hate to continue like that in
the prominent areas.

So...any advice on making 20 foot and longer cuts with a skill saw on
an installed deck?

Any chance of being able to jack up one side of the deck a bit so the water
can run off?

On Tue, 05 Jul 2005 23:04:41 GMT, "Noozer" wrote
(with possible editing):


wrote in message
roups.com...
My contractor didn't leave any gaps between fiberon (composite
material) decking boards so now every time it rains my deck holds water
much longer than it should. I've lived with it for 3 years now and
don't feel right about calling him back to fix it though I would like
it fixed.

Best advice I've gotten so far is to use a skill saw between the boards
to open a 1/8" to 1/4" gap between boards. Well there are some 20 foot
runs and keeping the cut straight is difficult to put it mildly.
Already have some funny looking gaps in less prominent areas of the
deck when I tried it this weekend. Would hate to continue like that in
the prominent areas.

So...any advice on making 20 foot and longer cuts with a skill saw on
an installed deck?

Any chance of being able to jack up one side of the deck a bit so the water
can run off?


Actually, I think the best solution would be to LOWER the outside rim.
If it's supported (and at 20 ft, it must be), it should be fairly easy
to do. I would think 1/8" of drop for every foot of run would be
enough. That's 20/8 or 2 1/2" to lower the outside perimeter. The
drop will be almost undetectable, and will permit the water to run
off.
--

Larry

Just remove and re-install the boards. Last board only will need to be
ripped. Easy if screwed down and its the right way to do it.
wrote in message
oups.com...
My contractor didn't leave any gaps between fiberon (composite
material) decking boards so now every time it rains my deck holds water
much longer than it should. I've lived with it for 3 years now and
don't feel right about calling him back to fix it though I would like
it fixed.

Best advice I've gotten so far is to use a skill saw between the boards
to open a 1/8" to 1/4" gap between boards. Well there are some 20 foot
runs and keeping the cut straight is difficult to put it mildly.
Already have some funny looking gaps in less prominent areas of the
deck when I tried it this weekend. Would hate to continue like that in
the prominent areas.

So...any advice on making 20 foot and longer cuts with a skill saw on
an installed deck?

Any other ideas for adding the gaps without taking out every board and
replacing with the proper spacing?