My water heater is leaking from the bottom today. There's a drop
falling every second or two so its failure is probably imminent. I
have called a plumber to come check it out this afternoon. I'd like to
know what to expect or any diagnosis you might have.

Bradford White
Model MI403S6LN12
Capacity 40.0 gal
Input 40,000 btu/hr. Natural Gas

On Tuesday, May 20, 2014 11:48:37 AM UTC-4, badgolferman wrote:
My water heater is leaking from the bottom today. There's a drop

falling every second or two so its failure is probably imminent. I

have called a plumber to come check it out this afternoon. I'd like to

know what to expect or any diagnosis you might have.



Bradford White

Model MI403S6LN12

Capacity 40.0 gal

Input 40,000 btu/hr. Natural Gas

Assuming the leak is not coming from some connection, the TPR valve etc,
then it's almost certainly toast. How old is it? Typical life is probably
10 - 13 years or so.

On Tue, 20 May 2014 15:48:37 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

My water heater is leaking from the bottom today. There's a drop
falling every second or two so its failure is probably imminent. I
have called a plumber to come check it out this afternoon. I'd like to
know what to expect or any diagnosis you might have.

Bradford White
Model MI403S6LN12
Capacity 40.0 gal
Input 40,000 btu/hr. Natural Gas
About $700 for the heater - labour depending on how difficult to get
at and how close the new one is to the old one in size and pipe
location.

I agree with the others. The leak is what necessitates replacing the water heater.

Now, be careful about what water heater they put in.

Be aware that 40 Canadian gallons is 50 American gallons, so check the old heater to see if it's 40 US gallons (which it probably is) or 40 Canadian gallons. If you replace a 40 Canadian gallon water heater with a 40 US gallon water heater, you may be running out of hot water occasionally. If it is 40 Canadian gallon, make sure they put in a 50 US gallon water heater so you have the same amount of hot water you had before.

On Tue, 20 May 2014 15:48:37 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

My water heater is leaking from the bottom today. There's a drop
falling every second or two so its failure is probably imminent. I
have called a plumber to come check it out this afternoon. I'd like to
know what to expect or any diagnosis you might have.

Bradford White
Model MI403S6LN12
Capacity 40.0 gal
Input 40,000 btu/hr. Natural Gas

My experience with a two WH's is that leaks at the bottom, um, are
failures that mean full replacement. And why do they always start
leaking in the middle of the night? On a Sunday morning, so the
neighbor knocks on the door because you have a flooded garage and
driveway. Stuff gets wet...

I did some plumbing on my units. No torch needed (flex lines) so I can
change one out in a hour. And I never buy the ones with the higher
warranty. Usually 6 years, but they don't seem to fail in only 6
years. Oh. Add a ball valve so you can turn the water off at the
heater. YMMV.

On Tue, 20 May 2014 15:48:37 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

My water heater is leaking from the bottom today. There's a drop
falling every second or two so its failure is probably imminent. I
have called a plumber to come check it out this afternoon. I'd like to
know what to expect or any diagnosis you might have.

Bradford White
Model MI403S6LN12
Capacity 40.0 gal
Input 40,000 btu/hr. Natural Gas


Diagnosis: it is leaking

Fix needed: replacement

Cost: a lot. Probably $700 to $900

On Tue, 20 May 2014 16:41:05 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Diagnosis: it is leaking

Fix needed: replacement

Cost: a lot. Probably $700 to $900

Must be me. I've never paid that much. I try to replace the WH at the
cost of the WH. DIY stuff :-\

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Tue, 20 May 2014 15:48:37 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

My water heater is leaking from the bottom today. There's a drop
falling every second or two so its failure is probably imminent. I
have called a plumber to come check it out this afternoon. I'd like
to know what to expect or any diagnosis you might have.

Bradford White
Model MI403S6LN12
Capacity 40.0 gal
Input 40,000 btu/hr. Natural Gas


Diagnosis: it is leaking

Fix needed: replacement

Cost: a lot. Probably $700 to $900

Shoulda just told him to bend over ... because that's pretty much what
plumbers do . I got lucky , got my new unit new construction for under 300
bucks for a 40 gal electric . Plumbed it in w/solid PVC all the way because
it was the least expensive option . When the time comes to replace it'll get
flex lines . I did put a ball valve on the inlet ... far enough upline that
it also cuts off the shower cold - they're just thru the wall from each
other .
--
Snag

badgolferman wrote:

My water heater is leaking from the bottom today. There's a drop
falling every second or two so its failure is probably imminent. I
have called a plumber to come check it out this afternoon. I'd like
to know what to expect or any diagnosis you might have.

Bradford White
Model MI403S6LN12
Capacity 40.0 gal
Input 40,000 btu/hr. Natural Gas


The above unit was made in 1997.

A replacement Rheem (appropriately named) unit will cost $897 installed
tomorrow.

I called a few other places and the cost was about the same but it
would take at least a week. I've dealt with these people before and
would rather give them my business since they have always arrived the
same day to diagnose the problem.

On 5/20/2014 5:32 PM, badgolferman wrote:
badgolferman wrote:

My water heater is leaking from the bottom today. There's a drop
falling every second or two so its failure is probably imminent. I
have called a plumber to come check it out this afternoon. I'd like
to know what to expect or any diagnosis you might have.

Bradford White
Model MI403S6LN12
Capacity 40.0 gal
Input 40,000 btu/hr. Natural Gas


The above unit was made in 1997.

A replacement Rheem (appropriately named) unit will cost $897 installed
tomorrow.

I called a few other places and the cost was about the same but it
would take at least a week. I've dealt with these people before and
would rather give them my business since they have always arrived the
same day to diagnose the problem.

When mine leaked, it was less than six years.
I called, and got the warranty. The Home Depot
gave me the price I paid towards the new unit,
so I was still out a couple hundred bucks. I
mumbled a bit, and went ahead.

I think you are wise to give your money to
the people who formerly treated you well.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"badgolferman" wrote in
:

My water heater is leaking from the bottom today. There's a drop
falling every second or two so its failure is probably imminent. I
have called a plumber to come check it out this afternoon. I'd like to
know what to expect or any diagnosis you might have.

Bradford White
Model MI403S6LN12
Capacity 40.0 gal
Input 40,000 btu/hr. Natural Gas

Metamorphosis - it's toast.


....keeping in mind the mention of

Assuming the leak is not coming from some connection, the TPR valve etc,

On Tue, 20 May 2014 16:11:05 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Tue, 20 May 2014 15:48:37 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

My water heater is leaking from the bottom today. There's a drop
falling every second or two so its failure is probably imminent. I
have called a plumber to come check it out this afternoon. I'd like
to know what to expect or any diagnosis you might have.

Bradford White
Model MI403S6LN12
Capacity 40.0 gal
Input 40,000 btu/hr. Natural Gas


Diagnosis: it is leaking

Fix needed: replacement

Cost: a lot. Probably $700 to $900

Shoulda just told him to bend over ... because that's pretty much what
plumbers do . I got lucky , got my new unit new construction for under 300
bucks for a 40 gal electric . Plumbed it in w/solid PVC all the way because
it was the least expensive option . When the time comes to replace it'll get
flex lines . I did put a ball valve on the inlet ... far enough upline that
it also cuts off the shower cold - they're just thru the wall from each
other .
Electric is about half the price of natural gas (up here anyway). So
about $600 for gas if you DIY.

badgolferman wrote:

My water heater is leaking from the bottom today.
I'd like to know what to expect or any diagnosis you might have.

Capacity 40.0 gal
Natural Gas

I was going to say that the plumber will charge you $1000 installed, but
you could simply drive to Home Despot and pick up a new one and install
it yourself for $300.

A replacement Rheem (appropriately named) unit will cost $897
installed tomorrow.

So I was $100 off.

They're not that heavy you know.

And easy as pie to put in.

I called a few other places and the cost was about the same but
it would take at least a week.

Real men know how to install replacement gas water heaters.

If you can attach a barbeque tank to a barbeque grill you can replace a
gas water heater.

I replaced exactly one water heater about 4 or 5 years ago - still
working just fine.

wrote:

Electric is about half the price of natural gas (up here anyway). So
about $600 for gas if you DIY.

Wrong.

You can get a natural-gas water heater at Home Despot (Canada) for about
$400 these days.

HomeGuy wrote:

Real men know how to install replacement gas water heaters.

If you can attach a barbeque tank to a barbeque grill you can replace
a gas water heater.


There are welded pipes and gas fittings. I don't think I want to fool
with those since I've never used a torch before.

badgolferman wrote:

If you can attach a propane tank to a barbeque grill you can
replace a gas water heater.

There are welded pipes and gas fittings. I don't think I want to
fool with those since I've never used a torch before.

You would not need a torch to disconnect the gas line from your water
heater.

You shut off the gas valve in the line going to the water heater, then
you take a wrench and unscrew the coupler at the tank gas inlet.

Naturally, you'd drain the tank and close the water valves going to (and
coming from) the heater (if you have such valves) or you'd shut off the
main water supply. Then you unscrew the couplers and move the old tank
out of the way.

When I replaced my tank, I added a ball valve to both the incoming and
out-going side of the copper water lines going to the tank, to make
replacement easier the next time.

The gas input of the old tank matched exactly (in terms of height from
the floor) of the new tank, so I didn't need to rework the gas line.
Just move the new tank into position, screw the coupler back, turn on
the gas, spread a little dish-soap on the connection to see if it
bubbles, and the job is done.

You want to fill the tank with water before turning on the heat.

On Tue, 20 May 2014 20:40:47 -0400, HomeGuy
Home@Guy.com wrote:

wrote:

Electric is about half the price of natural gas (up here anyway). So
about $600 for gas if you DIY.

Wrong.

You can get a natural-gas water heater at Home Despot (Canada) for about
$400 these days.
Mabee the little cheap one. I bought a 9 yr? warranty 40 gallon and
it was within a few dollars of $600 including tax. Bought it from Home
Despot because it's only about a mile away and I had to carry it home
on the rack behind my PT cruiser, so I didn't want to haul it across
town from the wholealer (price within dollars but better brand
available)

On Tue, 20 May 2014 22:09:46 -0400, HomeGuy
Home@Guy.com wrote:

badgolferman wrote:

If you can attach a propane tank to a barbeque grill you can
replace a gas water heater.

There are welded pipes and gas fittings. I don't think I want to
fool with those since I've never used a torch before.

You would not need a torch to disconnect the gas line from your water
heater.

You shut off the gas valve in the line going to the water heater, then
you take a wrench and unscrew the coupler at the tank gas inlet.

Naturally, you'd drain the tank and close the water valves going to (and
coming from) the heater (if you have such valves) or you'd shut off the
main water supply. Then you unscrew the couplers and move the old tank
out of the way.

Assuming the guy who installed it last used threaded unions. Most just
solder everything solid.

When I replaced my tank, I added a ball valve to both the incoming and
out-going side of the copper water lines going to the tank, to make
replacement easier the next time.

And I installed unions in the lines so it is easy to disconnect next
time.

The gas input of the old tank matched exactly (in terms of height from
the floor) of the new tank, so I didn't need to rework the gas line.
Just move the new tank into position, screw the coupler back, turn on
the gas, spread a little dish-soap on the connection to see if it
bubbles, and the job is done.
You were lucky - I had to replumb both the gas and water.

wrote:

You can get a natural-gas water heater at Home Despot (Canada)
for about $400 these days.

Mabee the little cheap one. I bought a 9 yr? warranty 40 gallon
and it was within a few dollars of $600 including tax.

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/hotp...000-btu/903008

Hotpoint 40 Gallon Natural Gas Water Heater - 6 YR Warranty-36,000 BTU
$373.00 (with tax, about $421 with tax)

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/ge40...000-btu/903005

General Electric
GE40 Gallon Natural Gas Water Heater 6 YR Warranty-36,000 BTU
$402.00 (about $454 with tax)

I bought a 9 yr? warranty 40 gallon and it was within a few
dollars of $600 including tax.

Which means you paid $530 + tax.

You overpaid. The extra 3 years on the warranty wasn't worth the extra
$150 - $175 up-front that you paid.

They all come out of the same factory.

After 6 years you'd be lucky if they gave you $265 credit on a
replacement.

On 5/20/2014 9:56 PM, badgolferman wrote:

There are welded pipes and gas fittings. I don't think I want to fool
with those since I've never used a torch before.


There is some skill to working with black iron
pipe for natural gas. If you get the same brand
and size of W.H. it might be possible to reuse
all the old black iron.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 5/20/2014 10:42 PM, wrote:
You want to fill the tank with
water before turning on the heat.

That should have been one of my Dad's
wise expressions.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Tue, 20 May 2014 20:38:30 -0400, H wrote:

badgolferman wrote:

My water heater is leaking from the bottom today.
I'd like to know what to expect or any diagnosis you might have.

Capacity 40.0 gal
Natural Gas

I was going to say that the plumber will charge you $1000 installed, but
you could simply drive to Home Despot and pick up a new one and install
it yourself for $300.

A replacement Rheem (appropriately named) unit will cost $897
installed tomorrow.

So I was $100 off.

They're not that heavy you know.

And easy as pie to put in.

I called a few other places and the cost was about the same but
it would take at least a week.

Real men know how to install replacement gas water heaters.

That's what insurance companies like to hear after a house burns down.

They just walk away ... with their check book as full as when they
arrived ... while the code official writes a citation for installing
the unit without a permit.

On Tuesday, May 20, 2014 11:18:54 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 20 May 2014 22:09:46 -0400, HomeGuy

Home@Guy.com wrote:



badgolferman wrote:



If you can attach a propane tank to a barbeque grill you can

replace a gas water heater.



There are welded pipes and gas fittings. I don't think I want to

fool with those since I've never used a torch before.



You would not need a torch to disconnect the gas line from your water

heater.



You shut off the gas valve in the line going to the water heater, then

you take a wrench and unscrew the coupler at the tank gas inlet.



Naturally, you'd drain the tank and close the water valves going to (and

coming from) the heater (if you have such valves) or you'd shut off the

main water supply. Then you unscrew the couplers and move the old tank

out of the way.



Assuming the guy who installed it last used threaded unions. Most just

solder everything solid.


+1

And that everything matches up perfectly old to new, which it *usually*
does, but without seeing this one, who knows. And that what's there now
was done correctly and doesn't have some
obvious problem that needs to be corrected. And that there isn't some other
problem, like maybe an old water shutoff valve that should be replaced that's
soldered in, or maybe no water shutoff valve at all.

And I also don't think it's too smart to be pushing someone who
doesn't feel they have the right skills to be fooling around with
gas piping either.






When I replaced my tank, I added a ball valve to both the incoming and

out-going side of the copper water lines going to the tank, to make

replacement easier the next time.



And I installed unions in the lines so it is easy to disconnect next

time.



The gas input of the old tank matched exactly (in terms of height from

the floor) of the new tank, so I didn't need to rework the gas line.

Just move the new tank into position, screw the coupler back, turn on

the gas, spread a little dish-soap on the connection to see if it

bubbles, and the job is done.

You were lucky - I had to replumb both the gas and water.

On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 7:17:15 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 5/20/2014 10:42 PM, wrote:

You want to fill the tank with

water before turning on the heat.



That should have been one of my Dad's

wise expressions.



--


I'd also recommend putting one of those plastic water catch pans
under the new one, if the old didn't have one. It depends on where
it's located as to how much benefit it is. But even in a basement,
it can be useful. They have an outlet that you can connect a piece of
hose to so that water goes where you want it, ie French drain, sump pump
pit, etc, instead of wherever it would wind up if it leaks on the floor.

wrote:

You would not need a torch to disconnect the gas line from your
water heater.

You shut off the gas valve in the line going to the water heater,
then you take a wrench and unscrew the coupler at the tank gas
inlet.

Assuming the guy who installed it last used threaded unions.
Most just solder everything solid.

BZZZ. Wrong.

The gas inlet is threaded pipe. The water inlet and outlets are also
threaded connections. Nobody makes gas water heaters with that don't
have threaded connections.

And I installed unions in the lines so it is easy to disconnect
next time.

You show me a water tank that has short lengths of raw copper pipes
sticking out of the top. You won't, because you can't.

Same goes for the gas inlet. NO TORCH OR WELDING REQUIRED to hook up
the gas line, like BGM (the OP) claims.

You were lucky - I had to replumb both the gas and water.

Even if I did have to rework the iron gas line, it would be a simple
matter of screwing a few short lengths together, a 90-degree elbow or
two. But I don't see why you would have to - unless you wanted to
relocate the new water tank. It should have lined up with existing
pipes as-is.

trader_4 wrote:

Assuming the guy who installed it last used threaded unions. Most
just solder everything solid.

+1

-1

Show me a natural gas hot water tank made in the last decade or two that
doesn't have threaded connections for water and gas supply.

around here lots of people are using the flexible brite yellow gas lines originally designed for gas dryers and gas stoves...

On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 8:33:07 AM UTC-4, HomeGuy wrote:
trader_4 wrote:



Assuming the guy who installed it last used threaded unions. Most

just solder everything solid.



+1



-1



Show me a natural gas hot water tank made in the last decade or two that

doesn't have threaded connections for water and gas supply.

Just because the tank has a threaded connection doesn't say anything
about what it's connected to. Very typically it's connected to a copper
male adaptor which is then soldered to the home plumbing system
Claire told you similar. But then being you, I know it's hard.

trader_4 wrote:

And that everything matches up perfectly old to new, which it *usually*
does, but without seeing this one, who knows.

After shoehorning a new water heater into place, I recall a sense of
amazement that the damn thing lined up exactly with the existing plumbing. U
figured it was going to be another adventure in modern plumbing.

bob haller wrote:

around here lots of people are using the flexible brite yellow gas
lines originally designed for gas dryers and gas stoves...

Yea - that's something I didn't think of.

Your water heater doesn't move around, shake or vibrate like a clothes
dryer does. The use of a short flexible link to connect a gas water
heater is a much safer application of those flex lines than any other
gas-using consumer device.

"badgolferman" wrote in message

stuff snipped

A replacement Rheem (appropriately named) unit will cost $897 installed
tomorrow.

(-: That's pretty outrageous for a flippin' water heater. I have to decide
now whether to buy one now on sale and store it or just bite the bullet and
pull the old one out *before* it starts leaking. It's about as old as
yours, but it sees fairly light use. Nine hundred dollars. You'd think it
was a self-powered polonium core unit with gold filigree.

--
Bobby G.

trader_4 wrote:

Show me a natural gas hot water tank made in the last decade or
two that doesn't have threaded connections for water and gas supply.

Just because the tank has a threaded connection doesn't say anything
about what it's connected to.

What - do you expect every joint and elbow in the water distribution
lines in house is going to have threaded connections?!

What kind of bone-head are you?

The point of this discussion is that you people are claiming that it's
hard, oh so hard to connect a new hot water tank yourself because you
have to break out the torch and welder, because nobody uses threaded
connections, yet you completely miss the point that the most crucial
location (and really, the ONLY place you need or want to have threaded
connections) is on the friggin device or appliance itself. Why you
would want threaded connections or unions anywhere else makes absolutely
no sense.

And if you want a threaded joint somewhere in a water pipe where it
currently doesn't exist, you cut the friggen copper pipe and solder one
on. If you can't do that, then what the hell are you doing reading and
posting to this news group? You should be reading rec.crafts.sewing or
baking or similar.

Wally W. writes:
On Tue, 20 May 2014 20:38:30 -0400, H wrote:

badgolferman wrote:

My water heater is leaking from the bottom today.
I'd like to know what to expect or any diagnosis you might have.

Capacity 40.0 gal
Natural Gas

I was going to say that the plumber will charge you $1000 installed, but
you could simply drive to Home Despot and pick up a new one and install
it yourself for $300.

A replacement Rheem (appropriately named) unit will cost $897
installed tomorrow.

So I was $100 off.

They're not that heavy you know.

And easy as pie to put in.

I called a few other places and the cost was about the same but
it would take at least a week.

Real men know how to install replacement gas water heaters.

That's what insurance companies like to hear after a house burns down.

A common internet meme ...


They just walk away ... with their check book as full as when they
arrived ... while the code official writes a citation for installing
the unit without a permit.

... that has never happened in real life.

On Tue, 20 May 2014 21:32:16 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

badgolferman wrote:

My water heater is leaking from the bottom today. There's a drop
falling every second or two so its failure is probably imminent. I
have called a plumber to come check it out this afternoon. I'd like
to know what to expect or any diagnosis you might have.

Bradford White
Model MI403S6LN12
Capacity 40.0 gal
Input 40,000 btu/hr. Natural Gas


The above unit was made in 1997.

A replacement Rheem (appropriately named) unit will cost $897 installed
tomorrow.

I called a few other places and the cost was about the same but it
would take at least a week. I've dealt with these people before and
would rather give them my business since they have always arrived the
same day to diagnose the problem.

You did right. No hassle for you. It's within the range of a typical
plumber install. And you trust them.
Sometimes it's best to have somebody else do it.

On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 11:11:04 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Real men know how to install replacement gas water heaters.



That's what insurance companies like to hear after a house burns down.



A common internet meme ...





They just walk away ... with their check book as full as when they

arrived ... while the code official writes a citation for installing

the unit without a permit.



... that has never happened in real life.

Hold on, there is some truth to it.

While there is no known case of an insurance company latching on to a DIY repair to avoid paying a valid claim,

there are MANY cases of a DIY'er accidentally burning the house down while tackling a repair beyond his level of skill.

Just saying.

On 5/21/2014 7:01 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 7:17:15 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 5/20/2014 10:42 PM, wrote:

You want to fill the tank with

water before turning on the heat.



That should have been one of my Dad's

wise expressions.



--


I'd also recommend putting one of those plastic water catch pans
under the new one, if the old didn't have one. It depends on where
it's located as to how much benefit it is. But even in a basement,
it can be useful. They have an outlet that you can connect a piece of
hose to so that water goes where you want it, ie French drain, sump pump
pit, etc, instead of wherever it would wind up if it leaks on the floor.


Just for the hell of it,
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pag...seum-home.html

On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 10:17:05 AM UTC-4, HomeGuy wrote:
trader_4 wrote:



Show me a natural gas hot water tank made in the last decade or

two that doesn't have threaded connections for water and gas supply.



Just because the tank has a threaded connection doesn't say anything

about what it's connected to.



What - do you expect every joint and elbow in the water distribution

lines in house is going to have threaded connections?!


No, but apparently you do.





What kind of bone-head are you?



The point of this discussion is that you people are claiming that it's

hard, oh so hard to connect a new hot water tank yourself because you

have to break out the torch and welder,

You're lying. I never said any such thing.


because nobody uses threaded

connections, yet you completely miss the point that the most crucial

location (and really, the ONLY place you need or want to have threaded

connections) is on the friggin device or appliance itself. Why you

would want threaded connections or unions anywhere else makes absolutely

no sense.



It makes perfect sense. The WH I have and the other ones that are
typically installed here, are like Claire told you. There is a male
copper adaptor that is screwed into the tank. Or many of them come
with dielectric nipples, so you use a female adaptor. From there copper
pipe with solder joints connects it to the system. That is a very
typical install. Capiche?

http://www.checkthishouse.com/wp-con...-vent-pipe.jpg

http://aaawicks.com/wp-content/uploa...er-heaters.jpg

http://designhome.pics/how-to-drain-...our-hot-water-
heater%E2%80%A6/

Got it now?

Alternatively you could have unions that allow only threaded
connections to be used. But you can't just have a threaded connection
on the tank, because without a coupling, you can't connect it.

Explain to us how you could just have one threaded connection to the water
heater and no unions, threaded connections, anywhere adjacent. Even you
seem to recognize that because you said:

"Then you unscrew the couplers and move the old tank out of the way. "

Well, if there is no coupler on the old system, ie it's soldered in,
then you can't unscrew it, idiot.




And if you want a threaded joint somewhere in a water pipe where it

currently doesn't exist, you cut the friggen copper pipe and solder one

on.

No **** Sherlock. But the OP said he doesn't have a torch, doesn't
know how to solder, doesn't want to work with gas, etc. Is that
so hard to comprehend? You claimed no soldering was involved just
screwed connections. Make up your mind.



If you can't do that, then what the hell are you doing reading and

posting to this news group? You should be reading rec.crafts.sewing or

baking or similar.

A lot of people come here looking for advice on how to proceed with
a repair project that may include using a pro. They don't need your
insults, especially when you don't know WTF you're talking about.

use the flexible gas line if needed

use sharkbites with PEX or copper.....

No sweating of pipes necessary

HomeGuy Home@Guy.com writes:
bob haller wrote:

around here lots of people are using the flexible brite yellow gas
lines originally designed for gas dryers and gas stoves...

Yea - that's something I didn't think of.

Your water heater doesn't move around, shake or vibrate like a clothes
dryer does. The use of a short flexible link to connect a gas water
heater is a much safer application of those flex lines than any other
gas-using consumer device.

Unless you live in earthquake country (most of the continental US can
be subject to earthquakes, albeit rarely).