when you need to unsolder a pipe connection and then resolder to it, are
there any tricks to the unsoldering, or to clean the joint of solder so you
can put a new coupling on it to resolder?

Pico Rico wrote:

when you need to unsolder a pipe connection and then resolder to it,
are there any tricks to the unsoldering, or to clean the joint of
solder so you can put a new coupling on it to resolder?

There really is no advantage, and actually quite a bit of extra work and
possibility to cause a fire, if you try to unsolder a copper pipe
connection.

You are much better off cutting out the joint or the section you're
working with and then solder new copper pipe in its place.

"H0m eGu y" "H0m e"@Gu y.com wrote in message
...
Pico Rico wrote:

when you need to unsolder a pipe connection and then resolder to it,
are there any tricks to the unsoldering, or to clean the joint of
solder so you can put a new coupling on it to resolder?

There really is no advantage, and actually quite a bit of extra work and
possibility to cause a fire, if you try to unsolder a copper pipe
connection.

You are much better off cutting out the joint or the section you're
working with and then solder new copper pipe in its place.

well, I tend to agree, but it really depends on the existing configuration
and location. In this instance, zero possibility of a fire, but cutting
back further is more of a hassle.

Pico Rico wrote:

You are much better off cutting out the joint or the section you're
working with and then solder new copper pipe in its place.

well, I tend to agree, but it really depends on the existing
configuration and location. In this instance, zero possibility
of a fire, but cutting back further is more of a hassle.

Then it's just a matter of applying enough heat to melt the solder.

You will need to remove every last drop of water in the pipe, or you'll
never be able to apply enough heat to melt the solder.

If you can or if you need to, shove some rags or paper towels in the
pipe to soak up the water and then remove them.

Maybe drill a small hole right at the joint so water can drain out.

Is your problem getting the pipes disconnected?

Or are you asking how to re-connect or clean the surfaces once you've
got them apart? The answer to that is sand paper.

On Friday, March 28, 2014 11:06:37 AM UTC-4, Pico Rico wrote:
"H0m eGu y" "H0m e"@Gu y.com wrote in message

...

Pico Rico wrote:



when you need to unsolder a pipe connection and then resolder to it,

are there any tricks to the unsoldering, or to clean the joint of

solder so you can put a new coupling on it to resolder?



There really is no advantage, and actually quite a bit of extra work and

possibility to cause a fire, if you try to unsolder a copper pipe

connection.



You are much better off cutting out the joint or the section you're

working with and then solder new copper pipe in its place.



well, I tend to agree, but it really depends on the existing configuration

and location. In this instance, zero possibility of a fire, but cutting

back further is more of a hassle.


I'd also recommend the cut approach, but if it's too hard to cut then you
can do what you propose. Just use a dry cloth to quickly wipe the end of
the pipe clean of as much of the old solder as you can after heating
it up. Make sure to flux the new fitting and old pipe. And
then you may need to heat it to get the new fitting on.

"H0m eGu y" "H0m e"@Gu y.com wrote in message
...
Pico Rico wrote:

You are much better off cutting out the joint or the section you're
working with and then solder new copper pipe in its place.

well, I tend to agree, but it really depends on the existing
configuration and location. In this instance, zero possibility
of a fire, but cutting back further is more of a hassle.

Then it's just a matter of applying enough heat to melt the solder.

You will need to remove every last drop of water in the pipe, or you'll
never be able to apply enough heat to melt the solder.

If you can or if you need to, shove some rags or paper towels in the
pipe to soak up the water and then remove them.

Maybe drill a small hole right at the joint so water can drain out.

Is your problem getting the pipes disconnected?

Or are you asking how to re-connect or clean the surfaces once you've
got them apart? The answer to that is sand paper.

The latter. I am sure I can pull them apart, I just want to be able to
slice a new fitting over a previously unsoldered part. Thanks for your
comments.

"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Friday, March 28, 2014 11:06:37 AM UTC-4, Pico Rico wrote:
"H0m eGu y" "H0m e"@Gu y.com wrote in message

...

Pico Rico wrote:



when you need to unsolder a pipe connection and then resolder to it,

are there any tricks to the unsoldering, or to clean the joint of

solder so you can put a new coupling on it to resolder?



There really is no advantage, and actually quite a bit of extra work
and

possibility to cause a fire, if you try to unsolder a copper pipe

connection.



You are much better off cutting out the joint or the section you're

working with and then solder new copper pipe in its place.



well, I tend to agree, but it really depends on the existing
configuration

and location. In this instance, zero possibility of a fire, but cutting

back further is more of a hassle.


I'd also recommend the cut approach, but if it's too hard to cut then you
can do what you propose. Just use a dry cloth to quickly wipe the end of
the pipe clean of as much of the old solder as you can after heating
it up. Make sure to flux the new fitting and old pipe. And
then you may need to heat it to get the new fitting on.

thanks for your comments. I will take a closer look and decide on the
approach.

On 03/28/2014 10:44 AM, Pico Rico wrote:
when you need to unsolder a pipe connection and then resolder to it, are
there any tricks to the unsoldering, or to clean the joint of solder so you
can put a new coupling on it to resolder?


Yes, cover your bare skin and wear eye protection...cuz getting hit by hot solder can make even a bible-thumpin' mormon swear!

Pico:

You should know that copper rusts. It's just that the oxide that copper forms is very different than iron rust. Copper oxide remains well bonded to the parent metal (copper) and is fairly impermeable to both H20 and O2 molecules. So, the thicker the layer of brown copper oxide on copper, the better it protects the underlying parent metal from further oxidation. This is why copper water supply pipes in buildings will often outlast the buildings themselves.

Molten solder will bond well to bare copper, but not to copper oxide. So, the whole procedure of sanding the pipes and brushing out the fittings is to remove the copper oxide that has formed on the copper or brass since it was manufactured.

The primary purpose of soldering flux is to keep oxygen molecules away from the copper metal during the soldering process. The oxide film forms relatively slowly at room temperatures, but it's nearly instantaneous at soldering temperatures. The flux forms a physical barrier between the bare copper metal and the oxygen in the air while the joint is being heated, but at the soldering temperature, the flux is fluid enough to be displaced from the joint by the capillary pressure drawing the molten solder into the joint.

Now, a layer of solder over the copper will protect the copper from oxidation as well as flux will. So, if you take apart a soldered joint, you can wipe the solder off the pipe with a dry rag. But, there's no need to remove the old solder from the pipe or from the old fitting. You just treat the surface of the old solder as the new surface of the pipe.

In my opinion, it's best to flux the old solder just as you would a bare pipe or fitting. That's because flux contains a chemical called "zinc chloride". At soldering temperatures, zinc chloride becomes acidic and dissolves copper oxide much more readily than it dissolves copper metal. So, having plenty of flux in the joint is good insurance that there won't be any oxide in the joint to prevent the solder from bonding properly.

And, of course, just from the preceding, you should know to flux your pipes and fittings as soon after sanding or brushing them as possible. That way, there's the thinnest possible oxide film on the copper or brass to be dissolved by the zinc chloride, and therefore the best chance of leak-free solder joints. When people tell you to clean the old flux off the piping after soldering it's good advice because that old flux contains zinc chloride. It's just that at room temperatures, or even the temperature of a hot water supply pipe, the zinc chloride is very much less acidic, and would take forever and a day to do any harm to the piping.

"H0m eGu y" "H0m e"@Gu y.com wrote in message ...
Pico Rico wrote:

You are much better off cutting out the joint or the section you're
working with and then solder new copper pipe in its place.

well, I tend to agree, but it really depends on the existing
configuration and location. In this instance, zero possibility
of a fire, but cutting back further is more of a hassle.

Then it's just a matter of applying enough heat to melt the solder.

You will need to remove every last drop of water in the pipe, or you'll
never be able to apply enough heat to melt the solder.

If you can or if you need to, shove some rags or paper towels in the
pipe to soak up the water and then remove them.

Maybe drill a small hole right at the joint so water can drain out.


Standard plumbing trick is to wad up a slice or two of white bread into dough and shove it into the pipe up stream from the joint. This is helpful when you can't remove the blockage after the soldering is done. It will liquify and you can flush it out. ** Don't use "healthy" bread - use plain soft white bread, no whole grains or seeds, and tear off the crust.

Is your problem getting the pipes disconnected?

Or are you asking how to re-connect or clean the surfaces once you've
got them apart? The answer to that is sand paper.

On Fri, 28 Mar 2014 07:44:51 -0700, "Pico Rico"
wrote:

when you need to unsolder a pipe connection and then resolder to it, are
there any tricks to the unsoldering, or to clean the joint of solder so you
can put a new coupling on it to resolder?


What others have said.

If you do need to drill a small hole (1/16") to drain water, do it on
the low side of the pipe. Once you sweat the fitting and pipe
together apply a small bit of solder over the hole to close it up.

Also ensure the inside of the fitting and pipe end are clean and
shiny. Use plenty of flux on all the clean areas.
--
Definition of a camel: A horse designed by a committee

easier to use sharkbites. No fuss no bother and PEX is dirt cheap, and tolerates freezing...

On Fri, 28 Mar 2014 07:44:51 -0700, "Pico Rico"
wrote:

when you need to unsolder a pipe connection and then resolder to it, are
there any tricks to the unsoldering, or to clean the joint of solder so you
can put a new coupling on it to resolder?


drain all the water first, heat and dissassemble, wipe the heated end
to remove all excess solder, leaving the pipe nicely tinned.
Drilling the coupling you are removing helps drain the pipe.

On Fri, 28 Mar 2014 11:03:54 -0400, H0m eGu y "H0m e"@Gu y.com
wrote:

Pico Rico wrote:

when you need to unsolder a pipe connection and then resolder to it,
are there any tricks to the unsoldering, or to clean the joint of
solder so you can put a new coupling on it to resolder?

There really is no advantage, and actually quite a bit of extra work and
possibility to cause a fire, if you try to unsolder a copper pipe
connection.

You are much better off cutting out the joint or the section you're
working with and then solder new copper pipe in its place.
And the pipe gets too short because you cut it off, so you need 2
joints instead of one. No reason not to desolder if you can drain the
pipe, and you have a good torch. By good, I mean a turbo-torch, not
one of those crappy Bernzomatics from the sixties. I like MAPP on a
Turbo for desoldering (and soldering) if I can't use the acetylene
torch.

Pico Rico wrote:
"H0m eGu y" "H0m e"@Gu y.com wrote in message
...
Pico Rico wrote:

when you need to unsolder a pipe connection and then resolder to it,
are there any tricks to the unsoldering, or to clean the joint of
solder so you can put a new coupling on it to resolder?

There really is no advantage, and actually quite a bit of extra work and
possibility to cause a fire, if you try to unsolder a copper pipe
connection.

You are much better off cutting out the joint or the section you're
working with and then solder new copper pipe in its place.

well, I tend to agree, but it really depends on the existing configuration
and location. In this instance, zero possibility of a fire, but cutting
back further is more of a hassle.


Hi,
YTime is money. Sorry I won't reuse unsoldered joint.

On Fri, 28 Mar 2014 11:14:08 -0400, H0m eGu y "H0m e"@Gu y.com
wrote:

Pico Rico wrote:

You are much better off cutting out the joint or the section you're
working with and then solder new copper pipe in its place.

well, I tend to agree, but it really depends on the existing
configuration and location. In this instance, zero possibility
of a fire, but cutting back further is more of a hassle.

Then it's just a matter of applying enough heat to melt the solder.

You will need to remove every last drop of water in the pipe, or you'll
never be able to apply enough heat to melt the solder.

If you can or if you need to, shove some rags or paper towels in the
pipe to soak up the water and then remove them.

Maybe drill a small hole right at the joint so water can drain out.

Is your problem getting the pipes disconnected?

Or are you asking how to re-connect or clean the surfaces once you've
got them apart? The answer to that is sand paper.
I prefer a damp rag. Heat to melt the solder, and a quick swipe
gives you a perfectly tinned clean surface for soldering. A bit of
"sal amoniac" on the rag helps if you want to get fancy.

On Fri, 28 Mar 2014 10:54:42 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

easier to use sharkbites. No fuss no bother and PEX is dirt cheap, and tolerates freezing...

Well almost. Not many people have PEX tools. You need tools to
transition to and from copper, fittings, etc...

In this case a simple fix sweating copper seems to be cheaper.

On Fri, 28 Mar 2014 15:29:00 -0400, wrote:

You are much better off cutting out the joint or the section you're
working with and then solder new copper pipe in its place.

And the pipe gets too short because you cut it off, so you need 2
joints instead of one. No reason not to desolder if you can drain the
pipe, and you have a good torch. By good, I mean a turbo-torch, not
one of those crappy Bernzomatics from the sixties. I like MAPP on a
Turbo for desoldering (and soldering) if I can't use the acetylene
torch.

+1 Every new fitting introduced adds another potential leak in the
future. Less is better.

I didn't know what "sal ammoniac" was either, so I googled it.
It turns out that it's a relatively uncommon salt; ammonium chloride, and one of it's uses is to clean the soldering iron used to solder the lead strips together when making stained glass windows.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sal_ammoniac

Clare
How do you use this sal ammoniac and what difference does it make?

On Fri, 28 Mar 2014 13:29:29 -0600, Tony Hwang
wrote:

Pico Rico wrote:
"H0m eGu y" "H0m e"@Gu y.com wrote in message
...
Pico Rico wrote:

when you need to unsolder a pipe connection and then resolder to it,
are there any tricks to the unsoldering, or to clean the joint of
solder so you can put a new coupling on it to resolder?

There really is no advantage, and actually quite a bit of extra work and
possibility to cause a fire, if you try to unsolder a copper pipe
connection.

You are much better off cutting out the joint or the section you're
working with and then solder new copper pipe in its place.

well, I tend to agree, but it really depends on the existing configuration
and location. In this instance, zero possibility of a fire, but cutting
back further is more of a hassle.


Hi,
YTime is money. Sorry I won't reuse unsoldered joint.
It can take less time to dissassemble and salvage than to cut and
patch.

On Fri, 28 Mar 2014 22:02:25 +0100, nestork
wrote:


;3215889 Wrote:
A bit of
"sal amoniac" on the rag helps if you want to get fancy.

I didn't know what "sal ammoniac" was either, so I googled it.
It turns out that it's a relatively uncommon salt; ammonium chloride,
and one of it's uses is to clean the soldering iron used to solder the
lead strips together when making stained glass windows.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sal_ammoniac

Clare
How do you use this sal ammoniac and what difference does it make?
It is basically a flux that makes the tinned copper go together just
like butter.
Just a solution of sal amoniac and water to dampen the cloth.

On Friday, March 28, 2014 4:22:49 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 28 Mar 2014 10:54:42 -0700 (PDT), bob haller

wrote:



easier to use sharkbites. No fuss no bother and PEX is dirt cheap, and tolerates freezing...



Well almost. Not many people have PEX tools. You need tools to

transition to and from copper, fittings, etc...



In this case a simple fix sweating copper seems to be cheaper.

sharkbites DONT require PEX tools. they snap together

On 3/28/2014 10:44 AM, Pico Rico wrote:
when you need to unsolder a pipe connection and then resolder to it, are
there any tricks to the unsoldering, or to clean the joint of solder so you
can put a new coupling on it to resolder?



Nice and hot. When the fitting comes loose,
immediately use a dry rag (cotton) to wipe
the solder off the pipe / tube while it's
still plenty hot. use a new fitting.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Fri, 28 Mar 2014 18:29:30 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

On Friday, March 28, 2014 4:22:49 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 28 Mar 2014 10:54:42 -0700 (PDT), bob haller

wrote:



easier to use sharkbites. No fuss no bother and PEX is dirt cheap, and tolerates freezing...



Well almost. Not many people have PEX tools. You need tools to

transition to and from copper, fittings, etc...



In this case a simple fix sweating copper seems to be cheaper.

sharkbites DONT require PEX tools. they snap together

True. They cost more, though, than sweating copper.

On 3/28/2014 11:50 AM, Pico Rico wrote:

Is your problem getting the pipes disconnected?

Or are you asking how to re-connect or clean the surfaces once you've
got them apart? The answer to that is sand paper.

The latter. I am sure I can pull them apart, I just want to be able to
slice a new fitting over a previously unsoldered part. Thanks for your
comments.

The dry cotton rag will help remove all
the solder from the old pipe. Have to be
quick about it, while the solder is still
melted.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 3/28/2014 12:05 PM, Bill wrote:

Yes, cover your bare skin and wear eye protection...cuz getting hit by
hot solder can make even a bible-thumpin' mormon swear!


Damn straight! Use a big cotton rag or towel,
and keep your body parts well away from that
hot solder.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

That's what I use too; just an old cotton or linen rag. Even a paper towel will work, but a nice soft cotton rag works best. You want cotton because plastic fabrics like acrylic or polyester will just melt on the hot pipe and make a mess.

And, for removing excess solder from a socket, I just take a piece of copper pipe, sand and flux the end of it, heat the socket and insert the pipe end. The molten solder inside the socket bonds to the pipe end so that when I pull the pipe end out of the socket again, there's just a nice tinning of the socket with no excess solder in it. (Then I just flux that tinned socket, sand and flux the new pipe end, insert the two together and solder normally.)

And, ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS when soldering, keep a spray bottle full of water handy so that you can put out a fire in a gawd awful hurry if you need to.

On 3/28/2014 9:34 PM, Oren wrote:

In this case a simple fix sweating copper seems to be cheaper.

sharkbites DONT require PEX tools. they snap together

True. They cost more, though, than sweating copper.


Yes, but they open up new opportunities for the unhandyman that cannot
sweat a joint.

Oren wrote:
On Fri, 28 Mar 2014 18:29:30 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

On Friday, March 28, 2014 4:22:49 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 28 Mar 2014 10:54:42 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:
easier to use sharkbites. No fuss no bother and PEX is dirt cheap,
and tolerates freezing..

Well almost. Not many people have PEX tools. You need tools to
transition to and from copper, fittings, etc...
In this case a simple fix sweating copper seems to be cheaper.

sharkbites DONT require PEX tools. they snap together

True. They cost more, though, than sweating copper.

There are trade offs. I'm replacing the faucet on a utility sink tomorrow.
I'm also moving/replacing the compression fit shutoffs for the washer. The
faucet is currently plumbed from under the sink with 3/8€� copper risers
soldered to 1/2€� pipe.

I'm cutting the risers off, popping a couple of SharkBites MNPT fittings
onto the 1/2€� copper and using 1/2€� to 1/2" braided supply lines to the
faucet. I should be on my back under the sink for about 10 minutes.

Sure, I spent an extra $10 on the 2 SharkBites, but it'll save me the
trouble of sweating fittings onto the pipe while lying on my back under the
sink. To me, it's worth it. Cut, Push, Tape, Wrench, Done.

For the washer shutoffs, which are all above the sink, I'll be sweating all
the fittings. Most of it I'll be able to do on the bench, then it's just a
couple of tee fittings to insert it into the system.There are a lot more
fittings for that job since I have to do the shutoffs, the fittings for the
hoses, and make a 90° turn. SharkBites for all that would certainly be
quicker and easier, but it would cost much more than I want to spend.

Like I said, trade offs.

On 3/28/2014 10:51 AM, Pico Rico wrote:

I'd also recommend the cut approach, but if it's too hard to cut then you
can do what you propose. Just use a dry cloth to quickly wipe the end of
the pipe clean of as much of the old solder as you can after heating
it up. Make sure to flux the new fitting and old pipe. And
then you may need to heat it to get the new fitting on.

thanks for your comments. I will take a closer look and decide on the
approach.

Assuming you get the parts separated and wiped down (just enough to make
sure the new couplings, tee's, etc can slide together with fluxing, what
you should do unless you're 150% certain that ALL water is drained from
the vicinity of your work is peel the crust from some white bread, roll
the white bread into a ball and stuff it back in the pipe as far back as
you can get it. That will remove all traces of water in the area of the
joint and keep it dry and steam free while you solder.

Once the joint's soldered and cooled down, open up a tap down line (try
not to let it run through the water softener or heater and turn the
water back on to flush out the bread.

I've used that "trick" - taught to me by a journeyman plumber - for
about 40 years and it has yet to fail me. Solid joint every time.

On 3/28/2014 1:16 PM, Oren wrote:

If you do need to drill a small hole (1/16") to drain water, do it on
the low side of the pipe. Once you sweat the fitting and pipe
together apply a small bit of solder over the hole to close it up.

Also ensure the inside of the fitting and pipe end are clean and
shiny. Use plenty of flux on all the clean areas.

Someone mentioned to drill the fitting,
not the pipe. Great idea, who ever thought
of that. Fitting can be replaced easier than
patching a pipe.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 3/28/2014 9:34 PM, Oren wrote:
sharkbites DONT require PEX tools. they snap together

True. They cost more, though, than sweating copper.

I wonder how long they last. Unproven
technology, I think. I may be a bit
suspicious.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 3/28/2014 10:58 PM, nestork wrote:
And, for removing excess solder from a socket, I just take a piece of
copper pipe, sand and flux the end of it, heat the socket and insert the
pipe end. The molten solder inside the socket bonds to the pipe end so
that when I pull the pipe end out of the socket again, there's just a
nice tinning of the socket with no excess solder in it. (Then I just
flux that tinned socket, sand and flux the new pipe end, insert the two
together and solder normally.)

_*And,_ALWAYS_ALWAYS_ALWAYS_when_soldering,_keep_a _spray_
bottle_full_of_water_handy_so_that_you_can_put_out _a_fire_
in_a_gawd_awful_hurry_if_you_need_to.*_

When torching near wood, it's OK to mix a drop or two
of dish soap in a spray bottle of water, and wet the
wood before you start heating.

A spray bottle of water NOW works better than a fire
hose in 15 minutes when the FD arrives.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 03/29/2014 07:30 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
When torching near wood, it's OK to mix a drop or two
of dish soap in a spray bottle of water, and wet the
wood before you start heating.

A spray bottle of water NOW works better than a fire
hose in 15 minutes when the FD arrives.

I'm glad you posted that for our not-so-bright southern friends.

http://www.wsbtv.com/news/news/cowet...sets-ho/nFCsh/

On Fri, 28 Mar 2014 23:07:39 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 3/28/2014 9:34 PM, Oren wrote:

In this case a simple fix sweating copper seems to be cheaper.

sharkbites DONT require PEX tools. they snap together

True. They cost more, though, than sweating copper.


Yes, but they open up new opportunities for the unhandyman that cannot
sweat a joint.

Touche'

If a guy can't sweat the fitting, he may not know how to get the
fitting off to replace it with a sharkbite

On Sat, 29 Mar 2014 07:26:00 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 3/28/2014 1:16 PM, Oren wrote:

If you do need to drill a small hole (1/16") to drain water, do it on
the low side of the pipe. Once you sweat the fitting and pipe
together apply a small bit of solder over the hole to close it up.

Also ensure the inside of the fitting and pipe end are clean and
shiny. Use plenty of flux on all the clean areas.

Someone mentioned to drill the fitting,
not the pipe. Great idea, who ever thought
of that. Fitting can be replaced easier than
patching a pipe.

If it works at the fitting - great. Guy did a new construction for a
water heater. 3/4" pipe and had a small leak at a fitting after he
turned the water on. Using acetylene, he could not get the fitting
off. Drilled a small hole a distance away to get the water out.
Worked like a charm.

On 3/29/2014 7:26 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 3/28/2014 9:34 PM, Oren wrote:
sharkbites DONT require PEX tools. they snap together

True. They cost more, though, than sweating copper.

I wonder how long they last. Unproven
technology, I think. I may be a bit
suspicious.


I don't think they should be used to plumb a house, but they do have a
place. I had a trouble spot in my baseboard heat run around the first
floor. It goes back to a flex piece installed during construction that
failed. It was replaced and failed a few years later. It was in a
nearly impossible to reach place. I cut it out and replaced it with pex
and Sharkbites and it is holding up well for a couple of years now.

I did a bathroom remodel a few weeks back. Some water lines had to be
cut and plugged until the rest of the plumbing could be done. A quick
cut and Sharkbite valve did the trick and it was easy to finish the rest
of the plumbing and make the connection. Yes, a sweat valve could have
been used, but in this tight spot it saved labor time and a torch near
the wood.

They look well made and should outladt me.

On Sat, 29 Mar 2014 07:26:58 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 3/28/2014 9:34 PM, Oren wrote:
sharkbites DONT require PEX tools. they snap together

True. They cost more, though, than sweating copper.

I wonder how long they last. Unproven
technology, I think. I may be a bit
suspicious.

I have no clue on longevity of sharhbites.

They are multi-use - more than once I think. Copper, PEX, CPVC slips
right in, removed using the tool? HD has a display you can check them
and play around.

I recently found that a water valve for my refrigerator & ice maker
(replacements) now use slip in fittings. You cut the end of the
plastic lines off now and they slip into the valve. I did not need a
new valve.

I'd trust sharkbites, perhaps even inside of a wall. Depends.
--
"People who worry about crocodiles are smart!" -Joe Machi

On Sat, 29 Mar 2014 07:30:16 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

When torching near wood, it's OK to mix a drop or two
of dish soap in a spray bottle of water, and wet the
wood before you start heating.

A spray bottle of water NOW works better than a fire
hose in 15 minutes when the FD arrives.

When I had my master bath opened up for a remodel, Bubba was going to
sweat the copper on a shower head I moved to a height of 7 feet or so.

Turned around a moment later and stuff was happening. Buuba isn't dumb
by any stretch of imagination. I made him stop what he was doing. My
guess is because he is red-green color blind, he sees things
differently than me
--
Definition of a camel: A horse designed by a committee

On 3/29/2014 2:51 PM, Oren wrote:


I recently found that a water valve for my refrigerator & ice maker
(replacements) now use slip in fittings. You cut the end of the
plastic lines off now and they slip into the valve. I did not need a
new valve.

I'd trust sharkbites, perhaps even inside of a wall. Depends.


Now that you mention it,I have a push fitting on my refrigerator filter
too. In addition at work we have about 800+ push fittings for air at
110 psi and I can't think of a single failure over quite a few years.