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#1
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Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
Hi,
I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to make it less visible. Here are a couple of photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/ Any advice appreciated! James |
#2
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Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
On Wed, 5 Mar 2014 18:06:30 -0600, James wrote:
Hi, I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to make it less visible. Here are a couple of photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/ Any advice appreciated! James If you mean the door showing with the door knob, in the background of the photo, I guessing the door jamb was not shimmed out enough. Stick a long level on the knob side, jamb inside, and check for vertical. A closer photo would help, so post some close-ups so we can see. |
#3
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Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
On 3/5/2014 6:06 PM, James wrote:
Hi, I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to make it less visible. Here are a couple of photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/ Any advice appreciated! James Level and plumb often have little to do with what looks right. If the bricks are out of level and you get religious about running a ceiling line at true level, it will look wrong, no matter who is technically right. You need to be more than willing to compromise to circumstances and existing conditions. Forget dead true plumb (though I wonder how you are determining) and be willing to compromise to existing circumstances. Often, a small adjustment to each will make it look right. Hope this helps. Over 40 working years in the business. -- ___________________________________ Keep the whole world singing . . . Dan G remove the seven |
#4
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James:
Put a spirit level on the bifold door casing. I expect you'll find that it's not plumb. It's not that noticable. You notice it because you know it's there. Short of redoing the bifold door now, one way to hide this is to paint that wall the same colour as the door casings. (?) That way, the wall area between the casings won't be as noticably wider at the top than at the bottom. |
#5
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Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
James posted for all of us...
And I know how to SNIP Hi, I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to make it less visible. Here are a couple of photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/ Any advice appreciated! James So what part isn't plumb and square? The door casing, the door, the bi-fold door? Good article in Fine Homebuilding a couple of months ago on hanging these doors. -- Tekkie |
#6
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Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
On 03/05/2014 06:53 PM, DanG wrote:
Level and plumb often have little to do with what looks right. If the bricks are out of level and you get religious about running a ceiling line at true level, it will look wrong, no matter who is technically right. You need to be more than willing to compromise to circumstances and existing conditions. Forget dead true plumb (though I wonder how you are determining) and be willing to compromise to existing circumstances. Often, a small adjustment to each will make it look right. Hope this helps. Over 40 working years in the business. I'm glad you wrote that. I never level things all too well. I keep telling my wife that if it looks OK, it's OK. Our house built in 1898 was probably never square to begin with. |
#7
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Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
On Wed, 05 Mar 2014 18:21:49 -0700, nestork
wrote: James: Put a spirit level on the bifold door casing. I expect you'll find that it's not plumb. It's not that noticable. You notice it because you know it's there. Short of redoing the bifold door now, one way to hide this is to paint that wall the same colour as the door casings. (?) That way, the wall area between the casings won't be as noticably wider at the top than at the bottom. Stripes? |
#8
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Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
On Wednesday, March 5, 2014 7:53:44 PM UTC-5, DanG wrote:
On 3/5/2014 6:06 PM, James wrote: Hi, I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to make it less visible. Here are a couple of photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/ Any advice appreciated! James Level and plumb often have little to do with what looks right. If the bricks are out of level and you get religious about running a ceiling line at true level, it will look wrong, no matter who is technically right. You need to be more than willing to compromise to circumstances and existing conditions. Forget dead true plumb (though I wonder how you are determining) and be willing to compromise to existing circumstances. Often, a small adjustment to each will make it look right. Hope this helps. Over 40 working years in the business. -- ___________________________________ Keep the whole world singing . . . Dan G remove the seven Slave driving bag of capitalist ****. You need to be beaten to death with 2x2s |
#9
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Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
On Wednesday, March 5, 2014 7:06:30 PM UTC-5, James wrote:
Hi, I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to make it less visible. Here are a couple of photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/ Any advice appreciated! James Shims? Violently overthrow the US government. Torture a Bush to death any means available. Get creative. |
#10
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Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
"James" wrote in message
thlink.net Hi, I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to make it less visible. Here are a couple of photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/ Any advice appreciated! One of the doors isn't plumb. Fix the one that isn't. -- dadiOH ____________________________ Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race? Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net |
#11
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Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
On 3/5/2014 7:06 PM, James wrote:
Hi, I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to make it less visible. Here are a couple of photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/ Any advice appreciated! James If the new door is truly perfectly plumb then it is clear that the bifold and/or the wall it is mounted in can't be. I'd investigate further to find out what is right and what is wrong before worrying about any fixes. |
#12
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Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
dadi,
I think that it's not a door that's the problem. The wall that holds the bifold door is the problem. It's not level, it leans slightly Distracting the eye might be a good fix. Is there room when the bifold door swings open to hang some cheap artwork? Dave M. |
#13
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Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
On Wed, 5 Mar 2014 18:31:21 -0600, Oren wrote
(in article ): On Wed, 5 Mar 2014 18:06:30 -0600, James wrote: Hi, I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to make it less visible. Here are a couple of photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/ Any advice appreciated! James If you mean the door showing with the door knob, in the background of the photo, I guessing the door jamb was not shimmed out enough. Stick a long level on the knob side, jamb inside, and check for vertical. A closer photo would help, so post some close-ups so we can see. Sorry I should have been clearer: it is the area painted green. The door you are referring to is to my garage is beyond the door in question. I probably should have shut the bathroom door so you couldn't see it.. |
#14
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Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
On Wed, 5 Mar 2014 18:53:44 -0600, DanG wrote
(in article ): On 3/5/2014 6:06 PM, James wrote: Hi, I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to make it less visible. Here are a couple of photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/ Any advice appreciated! James Level and plumb often have little to do with what looks right. If the bricks are out of level and you get religious about running a ceiling line at true level, it will look wrong, no matter who is technically right. You need to be more than willing to compromise to circumstances and existing conditions. Forget dead true plumb (though I wonder how you are determining) and be willing to compromise to existing circumstances. Often, a small adjustment to each will make it look right. Hope this helps. Over 40 working years in the business. Well I wish I could do that but I did not realize this was an issue until my wife painted the area and I installed the casing. I had a lot of trouble hanging the door due to the rough frame being twisted I am not inclined to remove it and start over. If I had installed it to make that one edge look right the door would not have worked and would have looked terrible. I used a 6' level for the hinge side which is standard practice and adjusted the rest of the door frame in accordance with the way it should be done. I have made acceptable compromises in installing three other doors in my house and this is just one of times where I have to deal with an issue I did not foresee. |
#15
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Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
On Thu, 6 Mar 2014 07:29:35 -0600, dadiOH wrote
(in article ): "James" wrote in message thlink.net Hi, I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to make it less visible. Here are a couple of photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/ Any advice appreciated! One of the doors isn't plumb. Fix the one that isn't. That sounds kinda doable. The wall where the bifold door is is the problem but I suppose I could pull the casing off and shim it out. Just kinda hate to do that since I replaced all the trim on that door a short time ago. Thanks! |
#16
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Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
On Thu, 6 Mar 2014 11:36:23 -0600, David L. Martel wrote
(in article ): dadi, I think that it's not a door that's the problem. The wall that holds the bifold door is the problem. It's not level, it leans slightly Distracting the eye might be a good fix. Is there room when the bifold door swings open to hang some cheap artwork? Dave M. I'm sure there is. That is a good idea to ponder. |
#17
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Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
Just avoid anything that has straight lines or squares or rectanglesg.
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#18
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Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
"James" wrote in message thlink.net... On Thu, 6 Mar 2014 07:29:35 -0600, dadiOH wrote (in article ): "James" wrote in message thlink.net Hi, I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to make it less visible. Here are a couple of photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/ Any advice appreciated! One of the doors isn't plumb. Fix the one that isn't. That sounds kinda doable. The wall where the bifold door is is the problem but I suppose I could pull the casing off and shim it out. Just kinda hate to do that since I replaced all the trim on that door a short time ago. Thanks! You got a lot of good ideas on how to fix the problem. You attempt to justify your laziness by not wanting to follow any advice. You need to get off your fat ass, or shut the **** up. |
#19
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Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
On Thu, 6 Mar 2014 18:55:36 -0800 (PST), "
wrote: Just avoid anything that has straight lines or squares or rectanglesg. Round is a shape isn't it? -- I support a woman's right to choose whichever gun she wants |
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