Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
 

Hi,

I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After
installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing
tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space
between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an
adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to
make it less visible.

Here are a couple of photos
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/

Any advice appreciated!

James

Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
 

On Wed, 5 Mar 2014 18:06:30 -0600, James wrote:

Hi,

I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After
installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing
tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space
between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an
adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to
make it less visible.

Here are a couple of photos
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/

Any advice appreciated!

James

If you mean the door showing with the door knob, in the background of
the photo, I guessing the door jamb was not shimmed out enough.

Stick a long level on the knob side, jamb inside, and check for
vertical. A closer photo would help, so post some close-ups so we can
see.

Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
 

On 3/5/2014 6:06 PM, James wrote:
Hi,

I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After
installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing
tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space
between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an
adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to
make it less visible.

Here are a couple of photos
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/

Any advice appreciated!

James



Level and plumb often have little to do with what looks right. If the
bricks are out of level and you get religious about running a ceiling
line at true level, it will look wrong, no matter who is technically
right. You need to be more than willing to compromise to circumstances
and existing conditions. Forget dead true plumb (though I wonder how
you are determining) and be willing to compromise to existing
circumstances. Often, a small adjustment to each will make it look
right. Hope this helps. Over 40 working years in the business.

--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven

James:

Put a spirit level on the bifold door casing. I expect you'll find that it's not plumb.

It's not that noticable. You notice it because you know it's there.

Short of redoing the bifold door now, one way to hide this is to paint that wall the same colour as the door casings. (?) That way, the wall area between the casings won't be as noticably wider at the top than at the bottom.

Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
 

James posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


Hi,

I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After
installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing
tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space
between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an
adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to
make it less visible.

Here are a couple of photos
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/

Any advice appreciated!

James

So what part isn't plumb and square? The door casing, the door, the bi-fold
door? Good article in Fine Homebuilding a couple of months ago on hanging
these doors.

--
Tekkie

Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
 

On 03/05/2014 06:53 PM, DanG wrote:



Level and plumb often have little to do with what looks right. If the
bricks are out of level and you get religious about running a ceiling
line at true level, it will look wrong, no matter who is technically
right. You need to be more than willing to compromise to circumstances
and existing conditions. Forget dead true plumb (though I wonder how
you are determining) and be willing to compromise to existing
circumstances. Often, a small adjustment to each will make it look
right. Hope this helps. Over 40 working years in the business.




I'm glad you wrote that. I never level things all too well. I keep
telling my wife that if it looks OK, it's OK.

Our house built in 1898 was probably never square to begin with.

Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
 

On Wed, 05 Mar 2014 18:21:49 -0700, nestork
wrote:


James:

Put a spirit level on the bifold door casing. I expect you'll find that
it's not plumb.

It's not that noticable. You notice it because you know it's there.

Short of redoing the bifold door now, one way to hide this is to paint
that wall the same colour as the door casings. (?) That way, the wall
area between the casings won't be as noticably wider at the top than at
the bottom.


Stripes?

Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
 

On Wednesday, March 5, 2014 7:53:44 PM UTC-5, DanG wrote:
On 3/5/2014 6:06 PM, James wrote:

Hi,



I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After

installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing

tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space

between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an

adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to

make it less visible.



Here are a couple of photos

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/



Any advice appreciated!



James







Level and plumb often have little to do with what looks right. If the

bricks are out of level and you get religious about running a ceiling

line at true level, it will look wrong, no matter who is technically

right. You need to be more than willing to compromise to circumstances

and existing conditions. Forget dead true plumb (though I wonder how

you are determining) and be willing to compromise to existing

circumstances. Often, a small adjustment to each will make it look

right. Hope this helps. Over 40 working years in the business.



--





___________________________________



Keep the whole world singing . . .

Dan G

remove the seven

Slave driving bag of capitalist ****. You need to be beaten to death with 2x2s

Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
 

On Wednesday, March 5, 2014 7:06:30 PM UTC-5, James wrote:
Hi,



I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After

installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing

tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space

between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an

adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to

make it less visible.



Here are a couple of photos

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/



Any advice appreciated!



James

Shims?
Violently overthrow the US government. Torture a Bush to death any means available. Get creative.

Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
 

"James" wrote in message
thlink.net
Hi,

I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square
and plumb. After installing the casing I noticed that
the space between the lock side casing tapers from about
7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space
between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold
door on an adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm
wondering what I can do to make it less visible.

Here are a couple of photos
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/

Any advice appreciated!


One of the doors isn't plumb. Fix the one that isn't.



--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
 

On 3/5/2014 7:06 PM, James wrote:
Hi,

I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After
installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing
tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space
between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an
adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to
make it less visible.

Here are a couple of photos
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/

Any advice appreciated!

James


If the new door is truly perfectly plumb then it is clear that the bifold
and/or the wall it is mounted in can't be. I'd investigate further to find
out what is right and what is wrong before worrying about any fixes.

Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
 

dadi,

I think that it's not a door that's the problem. The wall that holds the
bifold door is the problem. It's not level, it leans slightly
Distracting the eye might be a good fix. Is there room when the bifold
door swings open to hang some cheap artwork?

Dave M.

Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
 

On Wed, 5 Mar 2014 18:31:21 -0600, Oren wrote
(in article ):

On Wed, 5 Mar 2014 18:06:30 -0600, James wrote:

Hi,

I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After
installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing
tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space
between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an
adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to
make it less visible.

Here are a couple of photos
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/

Any advice appreciated!

James

If you mean the door showing with the door knob, in the background of
the photo, I guessing the door jamb was not shimmed out enough.

Stick a long level on the knob side, jamb inside, and check for
vertical. A closer photo would help, so post some close-ups so we can
see.

Sorry I should have been clearer: it is the area painted green. The door you
are referring to is to my garage is beyond the door in question. I probably
should have shut the bathroom door so you couldn't see it..

Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
 

On Wed, 5 Mar 2014 18:53:44 -0600, DanG wrote
(in article ):

On 3/5/2014 6:06 PM, James wrote:
Hi,

I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square and plumb. After
installing the casing I noticed that the space between the lock side casing
tapers from about 7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space
between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold door on an
adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm wondering what I can do to
make it less visible.

Here are a couple of photos
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/

Any advice appreciated!

James



Level and plumb often have little to do with what looks right. If the
bricks are out of level and you get religious about running a ceiling
line at true level, it will look wrong, no matter who is technically
right. You need to be more than willing to compromise to circumstances
and existing conditions. Forget dead true plumb (though I wonder how
you are determining) and be willing to compromise to existing
circumstances. Often, a small adjustment to each will make it look
right. Hope this helps. Over 40 working years in the business.



Well I wish I could do that but I did not realize this was an issue until my
wife painted the area and I installed the casing. I had a lot of trouble
hanging the door due to the rough frame being twisted I am not inclined to
remove it and start over. If I had installed it to make that one edge look
right the door would not have worked and would have looked terrible. I used
a 6' level for the hinge side which is standard practice and adjusted the
rest of the door frame in accordance with the way it should be done. I have
made acceptable compromises in installing three other doors in my house and
this is just one of times where I have to deal with an issue I did not
foresee.

Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
 

On Thu, 6 Mar 2014 07:29:35 -0600, dadiOH wrote
(in article ):

"James" wrote in message
thlink.net
Hi,

I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square
and plumb. After installing the casing I noticed that
the space between the lock side casing tapers from about
7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space
between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold
door on an adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm
wondering what I can do to make it less visible.

Here are a couple of photos
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/

Any advice appreciated!


One of the doors isn't plumb. Fix the one that isn't.





That sounds kinda doable. The wall where the bifold door is is the problem
but I suppose I could pull the casing off and shim it out. Just kinda hate
to do that since I replaced all the trim on that door a short time ago.
Thanks!

Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
 

On Thu, 6 Mar 2014 11:36:23 -0600, David L. Martel wrote
(in article ):

dadi,

I think that it's not a door that's the problem. The wall that holds the
bifold door is the problem. It's not level, it leans slightly
Distracting the eye might be a good fix. Is there room when the bifold
door swings open to hang some cheap artwork?

Dave M.



I'm sure there is. That is a good idea to ponder.

Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
 

Just avoid anything that has straight lines or squares or rectanglesg.

Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
 

"James" wrote in message
thlink.net...
On Thu, 6 Mar 2014 07:29:35 -0600, dadiOH wrote
(in article ):

"James" wrote in message
thlink.net
Hi,

I installed a prehung door in my bathroom. It is square
and plumb. After installing the casing I noticed that
the space between the lock side casing tapers from about
7-1/4" at the top to 6-3/4" at the bottom in the space
between the edge of the casing and the casing on a bifold
door on an adjoining wall. It is very noticeable and I'm
wondering what I can do to make it less visible.

Here are a couple of photos
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladedah...7641929664704/

Any advice appreciated!


One of the doors isn't plumb. Fix the one that isn't.





That sounds kinda doable. The wall where the bifold door is is the
problem
but I suppose I could pull the casing off and shim it out. Just kinda
hate
to do that since I replaced all the trim on that door a short time ago.
Thanks!


You got a lot of good ideas on how to fix the problem. You attempt to
justify your laziness by not wanting to follow any advice. You need to get
off your fat ass, or shut the **** up.

Taper Between Door Jamb and Wall
 

On Thu, 6 Mar 2014 18:55:36 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

Just avoid anything that has straight lines or squares or rectanglesg.

Round is a shape isn't it?
--
I support a woman's right to choose whichever gun she wants