Refer to these pics in the URL below and in particular where the tape
is near the bottom of the door jamb. Can I just splice out say 6" of
the wood where taped and just splice in another or do I need to
replace the entire jamb? Meanwhile I did a work in progress spackle
job where the wood rotted (taped areas) to make it somewhat
presentable till I decide how to really fix it.

http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/q...g23314/Public/


What size wood(s) is used for the jamb here?

On Jul 11, 9:17*pm, "Doug" wrote:
Refer to these pics in the URL below and in particular where the tape
is near the bottom of the door jamb. * Can I just splice out say 6" of
the wood where taped and just splice in another or do I need to
replace the entire jamb? * Meanwhile I did a work in progress spackle
job where the wood rotted (taped areas) to make it somewhat
presentable till I decide how to really fix it.

http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/q...g23314/Public/

What size wood(s) is used for the jamb here?

You have more than just a jamb there.

As far as I can tell, you have the jamb and three pieces of trim.

- The jamb is usually 3/4 stock by whatever width the jamb is.
- The first piece of trim looks to be 1 x 2 stock
- The next piece of trim is maybe 1/4" by 2". Something like this, but
with a bull nose to give it that profile:

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...c98235_300.jpg

- The face trim may be the same material but without the bull nose.

Can you cut out the bottom and replace just the rotted sections?
Probably. Hard to tell since we can't really see how it's all put
together, but it seems like everything is just built up from the rough
opening material.

You might even be able to find some vinyl stock in the same sizes or
cut to fit so that it'll never rot again. Vinyl can be painted to
match.

Hopefully you won't find that the rough opening material is rotted
also, but you very well might.

Of course, the first question is this:

Why is the bottom of that entire area rotted? Does water collect there
so that the wood wicks it up? If so you need to fix that first. If
fixing the water issue is a real problem, then going with vinyl might
be a really good idea.

The concrete slab, in the doorway, looks to be level (or maybe even
sloping toward the door), not sloped to the exterior. Is this
correct?

The concrete slab should not be exposed, that way, unless it is
significantly sloped toward its exterior edge. The whole concrete
threshold area should be either covered by the doorway's threshold or
the concrete should be sloping down and to the exterior, from the
doorway's threshold to the concrete's exterior edge. I highly suspect
water is pooling (probably) all along the door's threshold... and
likely under the threshold.

I would suspect 1) someone may have changed the whole door and
framing, removing the original threshold that covered all the way to
the concrete's edge, and replaced it with the present door, with
smaller inadequate depth of threshold or 2) that doorway was
originally not constructed properly, with a proper threshold covering.

I would like to see a better pic of the whole bottom of the door and
the concrete slab.

On Jul 11, 9:29*pm, Sonny wrote:
The concrete slab, in the doorway, looks to be level (or maybe even
sloping toward the door), not sloped to the exterior. *Is this
correct?

The concrete slab should not be exposed, that way, unless it is
significantly sloped toward its exterior edge. *The whole concrete
threshold area should be either covered by the doorway's threshold or
the concrete should be sloping down and to the exterior, from the
doorway's threshold to the concrete's exterior edge. *I highly suspect
water is pooling (probably) all along the door's threshold... and
likely under the threshold.

I would suspect 1) someone may have changed the whole door and
framing, removing the original threshold that covered all the way to
the concrete's edge, and replaced it with the present door, with
smaller inadequate depth of threshold or 2) that doorway was
originally not constructed properly, with a proper threshold covering.

I would like to see a better pic of the whole bottom of the door and
the concrete slab.

Agreed, a close-up of the area below the threshold and the doorsill,
with the door open so we can see what is on the inside. It is liable
to be rotted also. Does the concrete slope away from the building,
with a noticeable slope????

On Jul 11, 9:17*pm, "Doug" wrote:

Refer to these pics in the URL below and in particular where the tape
is near the bottom of the door jamb. * Can I just splice out say 6" of
the wood where taped and just splice in another or do I need to
replace the entire jamb? * Meanwhile I did a work in progress spackle
job where the wood rotted (taped areas) to make it somewhat
presentable till I decide how to really fix it.

http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/q...g23314/Public/

What size wood(s) is used for the jamb here?

I dunno - what does it measure. My tape won't reach from here.

Whether you have to replace the jamb is dependent on how much of the
existing jamb is rotted, and the condition of the rest of the jamb and
the fit of the door. If you're going to splice something in, don't go
with wood, go with one of the PVC wood substitutes, like Azek.

R

On Jul 11, 6:17*pm, "Doug" wrote:
Refer to these pics in the URL below and in particular where the tape
is near the bottom of the door jamb. * Can I just splice out say 6" of
the wood where taped and just splice in another or do I need to
replace the entire jamb? * Meanwhile I did a work in progress spackle
job where the wood rotted (taped areas) to make it somewhat
presentable till I decide how to really fix it.

http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/q...g23314/Public/

What size wood(s) is used for the jamb here?

Doug-

You might consider "restoring" the rotted would with:

http://www.abatron.com/buildingandre....html?vmcchk=1

Scrape it down to bare wood, remove loose rotted material, restore &
build up the areas that are missing.
The "pint kit" gives you ~55 cubic inches of wood epox "paste" and 55
cubic inches of liquid wood (injectable / pourable liquid epoxy).

WIth this amount of wood epox you can create a chuck of solid
material 5.5" x .75" x 12"...... seems like pint kit would be enough
to do the job.

I'd leave a clean gap at the bottom so water cannot be wicked.


I've this stuff a number of time since the late 1980's. Never had a
failure, never been disappointed.

All the comments about water, threshold slope, etc are valid.

With exterior wood applications, the rules a
1) keep it dry
2) if you cannot keep it dry, design & install so it will dry (avoid
situations where caulk traps water rather than providing water
proofing)

Course of action will be influenced by age of door, expected / desired
service life of the door system and how good a fix you want.

cheers
Bob

On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 23:23:07 -0700 (PDT), DD_BobK
wrote:

On Jul 11, 6:17*pm, "Doug" wrote:
Refer to these pics in the URL below and in particular where the tape
is near the bottom of the door jamb. * Can I just splice out say 6" of
the wood where taped and just splice in another or do I need to
replace the entire jamb? * Meanwhile I did a work in progress spackle
job where the wood rotted (taped areas) to make it somewhat
presentable till I decide how to really fix it.

http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/q...g23314/Public/

What size wood(s) is used for the jamb here?

Doug-

You might consider "restoring" the rotted would with:

http://www.abatron.com/buildingandre....html?vmcchk=1

Scrape it down to bare wood, remove loose rotted material, restore &
build up the areas that are missing.
The "pint kit" gives you ~55 cubic inches of wood epox "paste" and 55
cubic inches of liquid wood (injectable / pourable liquid epoxy).

WIth this amount of wood epox you can create a chuck of solid
material 5.5" x .75" x 12"...... seems like pint kit would be enough
to do the job.

I'd leave a clean gap at the bottom so water cannot be wicked.


I've this stuff a number of time since the late 1980's. Never had a
failure, never been disappointed.

All the comments about water, threshold slope, etc are valid.

With exterior wood applications, the rules a
1) keep it dry
2) if you cannot keep it dry, design & install so it will dry (avoid
situations where caulk traps water rather than providing water
proofing)

Course of action will be influenced by age of door, expected / desired
service life of the door system and how good a fix you want.

cheers
Bob


Appreciate that Bob, thank you.

Doug wrote:
Refer to these pics in the URL below and in particular where the tape
is near the bottom of the door jamb. Can I just splice out say 6" of
the wood where taped and just splice in another or do I need to
replace the entire jamb?

I've given up trying to make dutchmen for stuff like that. particularly for
the prehung doors where the side jamps are stapled to a piece of wood under
an aluminum threshold...they are doomed to inexorable failure.

Instead, I rebuild the area with Bondo. Tape it off, slather in Bondo, sand
to shape when dry. Even though Bondo is pretty impervious to water, it is a
good idea to leave it 1/4" or so above the concrete as it is in your photo.
_______________

Meanwhile I did a work in progress spackle
job where the wood rotted (taped areas) to make it somewhat
presentable till I decide how to really fix it.

What did you spackle it with? Spackle? if so, dig it out and use Bondo.
Dig out any compromised wood too. And while doing that, it doesn't hurt to
key the wood.
_________________

What size wood(s) is used for the jamb here?

Hard to say. Got a tape measure, square or caliper?

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 18:49:29 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Jul 11, 9:17*pm, "Doug" wrote:
Refer to these pics in the URL below and in particular where the tape
is near the bottom of the door jamb. * Can I just splice out say 6" of
the wood where taped and just splice in another or do I need to
replace the entire jamb? * Meanwhile I did a work in progress spackle
job where the wood rotted (taped areas) to make it somewhat
presentable till I decide how to really fix it.

http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/q...g23314/Public/

What size wood(s) is used for the jamb here?

You have more than just a jamb there.

As far as I can tell, you have the jamb and three pieces of trim.

- The jamb is usually 3/4 stock by whatever width the jamb is.
- The first piece of trim looks to be 1 x 2 stock
- The next piece of trim is maybe 1/4" by 2". Something like this, but
with a bull nose to give it that profile:

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...c98235_300.jpg

- The face trim may be the same material but without the bull nose.

Can you cut out the bottom and replace just the rotted sections?
Probably. Hard to tell since we can't really see how it's all put
together, but it seems like everything is just built up from the rough
opening material.

You might even be able to find some vinyl stock in the same sizes or
cut to fit so that it'll never rot again. Vinyl can be painted to
match.

Hopefully you won't find that the rough opening material is rotted
also, but you very well might.

Of course, the first question is this:

Why is the bottom of that entire area rotted? Does water collect there
so that the wood wicks it up? If so you need to fix that first. If
fixing the water issue is a real problem, then going with vinyl might
be a really good idea.


I think water splashes around there from the overhead breezeway (no
gutter) that connects to the roof above this door. I know a picture
is worth a 1000 words here but it's raining right now so its hard to
take good outside pictures right now. I will consider what you said.
Thank you.

On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 19:29:41 -0700 (PDT), Sonny
wrote:

The concrete slab, in the doorway, looks to be level (or maybe even
sloping toward the door), not sloped to the exterior. Is this
correct?

The concrete slab should not be exposed, that way, unless it is
significantly sloped toward its exterior edge. The whole concrete
threshold area should be either covered by the doorway's threshold or
the concrete should be sloping down and to the exterior, from the
doorway's threshold to the concrete's exterior edge. I highly suspect
water is pooling (probably) all along the door's threshold... and
likely under the threshold.

I would suspect 1) someone may have changed the whole door and
framing, removing the original threshold that covered all the way to
the concrete's edge, and replaced it with the present door, with
smaller inadequate depth of threshold or 2) that doorway was
originally not constructed properly, with a proper threshold covering.

I would like to see a better pic of the whole bottom of the door and
the concrete slab.

It's raining right now so hard to take pics but the concrete slope
should be sloping mildly to the left in the picture because there is a
driveway on that side where the waterflow should carry it to the
street. I think there is water that splashes there from the overhead
breezeway due to no gutters. Odd thing is that the same thing is on
the right side of the same door without a problem... go figure.

On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 20:32:56 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) "
wrote:

On Jul 11, 9:29*pm, Sonny wrote:
The concrete slab, in the doorway, looks to be level (or maybe even
sloping toward the door), not sloped to the exterior. *Is this
correct?

The concrete slab should not be exposed, that way, unless it is
significantly sloped toward its exterior edge. *The whole concrete
threshold area should be either covered by the doorway's threshold or
the concrete should be sloping down and to the exterior, from the
doorway's threshold to the concrete's exterior edge. *I highly suspect
water is pooling (probably) all along the door's threshold... and
likely under the threshold.

I would suspect 1) someone may have changed the whole door and
framing, removing the original threshold that covered all the way to
the concrete's edge, and replaced it with the present door, with
smaller inadequate depth of threshold or 2) that doorway was
originally not constructed properly, with a proper threshold covering.

I would like to see a better pic of the whole bottom of the door and
the concrete slab.

Agreed, a close-up of the area below the threshold and the doorsill,
with the door open so we can see what is on the inside. It is liable
to be rotted also. Does the concrete slope away from the building,
with a noticeable slope????


Just to not repeat, see my other posts here. Hopefully without a pic,
you will understand. Thanks.

On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 20:52:58 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
wrote:

On Jul 11, 9:17*pm, "Doug" wrote:

Refer to these pics in the URL below and in particular where the tape
is near the bottom of the door jamb. * Can I just splice out say 6" of
the wood where taped and just splice in another or do I need to
replace the entire jamb? * Meanwhile I did a work in progress spackle
job where the wood rotted (taped areas) to make it somewhat
presentable till I decide how to really fix it.

http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/q...g23314/Public/

What size wood(s) is used for the jamb here?

I dunno - what does it measure. My tape won't reach from here.

Whether you have to replace the jamb is dependent on how much of the
existing jamb is rotted, and the condition of the rest of the jamb and
the fit of the door. If you're going to splice something in, don't go
with wood, go with one of the PVC wood substitutes, like Azek.

R

Get a longer tape grin. I'll look into Azek, thanks.

On Jul 12, 8:05*am, "Doug" wrote:
On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 20:52:58 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour wrote:
On Jul 11, 9:17*pm, "Doug" wrote:

What size wood(s) is used for the jamb here?

I dunno - what does it measure. *My tape won't reach from here.

Whether you have to replace the jamb is dependent on how much of the
existing jamb is rotted, and the condition of the rest of the jamb and
the fit of the door. *If you're going to splice something in, don't go
with wood, go with one of the PVC wood substitutes, like Azek.

Get a longer tape grin. * * *I'll look into Azek, thanks.

There's a company that manufactures wooden door jambs with the bottom
foot or so made from PVC. They save people from having to do the work
15 or 20 years later. In lieu of that, and at the very least, the
back and bottom of the jambs and casings should be painted/sealed.
Epoxy works well for sealing the endgrain prior to painting. Git-Rot
is a very low viscosity epoxy which gets wicked up into the wood and
is a good product for such an application

It pains me that people are still designing and using wooden door
jambs and casings in high exposure areas. I see a lot of campgrounds
that use unfinished cedar (hey, it's cheap!) in showers and bathrooms
and the bottom sections are all rotten.

R

On Jul 12, 8:05*am, "Doug" wrote:
On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 20:52:58 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour





wrote:
On Jul 11, 9:17*pm, "Doug" wrote:

Refer to these pics in the URL below and in particular where the tape
is near the bottom of the door jamb. * Can I just splice out say 6" of
the wood where taped and just splice in another or do I need to
replace the entire jamb? * Meanwhile I did a work in progress spackle
job where the wood rotted (taped areas) to make it somewhat
presentable till I decide how to really fix it.

http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/q...g23314/Public/

What size wood(s) is used for the jamb here?

I dunno - what does it measure. *My tape won't reach from here.

Whether you have to replace the jamb is dependent on how much of the
existing jamb is rotted, and the condition of the rest of the jamb and
the fit of the door. *If you're going to splice something in, don't go
with wood, go with one of the PVC wood substitutes, like Azek.

R

Get a longer tape grin. * * *I'll look into Azek, thanks.

Not just Azek, but any of the vinyl moulding products from various
manufacturers that can be found in most home centers.

When I needed new trim for a few windows and a new storm door, I went
with vinyl trim. It's staying white anyway, so I didn't need to be
concerned with paint.

With the various styles of vinyl mouldings avaialable, you can build
your own profile. Super glue works great on vinyl. It slides around a
bit at first, but after 5 - 10 seconds it's solid.

Hi Doug,

Refer to these pics in the URL below and in particular where
the tape is near the bottom of the door jamb. Can I just
splice out say 6" of the wood where taped and just splice
in another or do I need to replace the entire jamb?
http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/q...g23314/Public/

In my experience, this is a very common problem with exposed doors. Both
door frames in our old house wicked up water at the bottom and rotted,
and I just had to replace two of our entry door jambs last year for
similar problems (both doors were less than five years old!).

The steel doors were still in good shape, so I decided just to replace
the jambs. After seeing how common the wicking problem is, I chose to use
composite door frames instead of wood. I measured the hinge sizes and
locations carefully (to the nearest 1/32"), and special ordered new
composite door jamb assemblies from my local Lowes. The new jambs came
mortised ready to install my existing door.

While I had everything apart, I wanted to make the door opening as water
tight as possible. So I also installed a PVC jamb sill from
www.jamsill.com. If any water should find it's way past the jamb and door
sill, the jamsill tray will direct it out of the building instead of
rotting the structure underneath.

I did find a little bit of rot under the door sill when I took the door
frame out. Thankfully it was rather small so I was able to cut out a tiny
section of the plywood siding and replace it with a small patch before
installing the new frame.

Anywhere I had to add new trim (under the lower door frame, for
instance), I used composite decking material. I couldn't find the PVC
trim (like Azek) at our local stores, and the composite decking cut and
fastened as well as wood.

The only hurdle with the composite frame and trim is that you have to
scuff it up with sandpaper and use the proper primer to get the paint to
stick. It took me the coat of primer and three coats of paint to cover
the composite trim, but it turned out great.

Your installation is a little unique with the door set back in the
opening like that. From what I can tell you have additional trim around
the outside of the door jamb. I would use PVC or composite trim to
replace any additional pieces. You also might need a spacer at the
bottom to lift the door frame up slightly so use the jambsill pan, but
it's hard to tell from here until the old jamb is out.

I suppose you could just cut away the lower 6-8 inches or so on each side
and patch those in with PVC trim, but that seems like a lot of work for a
jamb that might be leaking and rotting elsewhere. If you're going to fix
it, you might as well pull things apart and make sure there is no further
damage.

Good luck,

Anthony

On Thu, 12 Jul 2012 11:54:49 -0700 (PDT), Sonny
wrote:


It's raining right now so hard ....

Where are you located? I may be near you.

Sonny


Just curious, what makes you say that?
Answer: Houston suburb

Just curious, what makes you say that?
Answer: *Houston suburb

We've been getting storms almost every day and I just wondered if you
would happen to be nearby. I do volunteer work, sometimes. If you
would have been nearby, I would have offered direct help.

Sonny
Lafayette, La

On Thu, 12 Jul 2012 18:08:27 -0700 (PDT), Sonny
wrote:


Just curious, what makes you say that?
Answer: *Houston suburb

We've been getting storms almost every day and I just wondered if you
would happen to be nearby. I do volunteer work, sometimes. If you
would have been nearby, I would have offered direct help.

Sonny
Lafayette, La


Shucks... very nice offer tho. Thanks Sonny, appreciate it
regardless.... Doug