On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 23:23:07 -0700 (PDT), DD_BobK
wrote:

On Jul 11, 6:17*pm, "Doug" wrote:
Refer to these pics in the URL below and in particular where the tape
is near the bottom of the door jamb. * Can I just splice out say 6" of
the wood where taped and just splice in another or do I need to
replace the entire jamb? * Meanwhile I did a work in progress spackle
job where the wood rotted (taped areas) to make it somewhat
presentable till I decide how to really fix it.

http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/q...g23314/Public/

What size wood(s) is used for the jamb here?

Doug-

You might consider "restoring" the rotted would with:

http://www.abatron.com/buildingandre....html?vmcchk=1

Scrape it down to bare wood, remove loose rotted material, restore &
build up the areas that are missing.
The "pint kit" gives you ~55 cubic inches of wood epox "paste" and 55
cubic inches of liquid wood (injectable / pourable liquid epoxy).

WIth this amount of wood epox you can create a chuck of solid
material 5.5" x .75" x 12"...... seems like pint kit would be enough
to do the job.

I'd leave a clean gap at the bottom so water cannot be wicked.


I've this stuff a number of time since the late 1980's. Never had a
failure, never been disappointed.

All the comments about water, threshold slope, etc are valid.

With exterior wood applications, the rules a
1) keep it dry
2) if you cannot keep it dry, design & install so it will dry (avoid
situations where caulk traps water rather than providing water
proofing)

Course of action will be influenced by age of door, expected / desired
service life of the door system and how good a fix you want.

cheers
Bob


Appreciate that Bob, thank you.