OK, we've talked at length about replacing the toilet seal
(wax/rubber/whatever). Now, I'm asking, how much should it cost to
have it done professionally. I ask this cuz I'm responsible for my
mother's home. She has alzheimers and I have legal authority to use
her assets to maintain her property, which I've determined is now
necessary.

So, how much should it cost? And how long should it take? Can it be
done inside a day (8hrs)? Is there a flat rate for the job, or can I
be hosed by an inexperienced plumber who charges by the OJT hour? If
I hadda pay, I do it myself, but I don't. So, what should I expect
from a reputable plumber?

BTW, I'm hoping no dry rot, but we'll see. Also, the actual toilet is
in excellent shape. Jes needs new floor seal.

Thnx.
nb

On 16 Jan 2014 04:14:01 GMT, notbob wrote:

OK, we've talked at length about replacing the toilet seal
(wax/rubber/whatever). Now, I'm asking, how much should it cost to
have it done professionally. I ask this cuz I'm responsible for my
mother's home. She has alzheimers and I have legal authority to use
her assets to maintain her property, which I've determined is now
necessary.

So, how much should it cost? And how long should it take? Can it be
done inside a day (8hrs)? Is there a flat rate for the job, or can I
be hosed by an inexperienced plumber who charges by the OJT hour? If
I hadda pay, I do it myself, but I don't. So, what should I expect
from a reputable plumber?

BTW, I'm hoping no dry rot, but we'll see. Also, the actual toilet is
in excellent shape. Jes needs new floor seal.

Thnx.
nb

In my area, a handy dandy guy generally gets $75 to pull and reset a
toilet. Compare that to the cost of a plumber.

Unforeseen problems will ad to that cost.

"notbob" wrote in message
...
OK, we've talked at length about replacing the toilet seal
(wax/rubber/whatever). Now, I'm asking, how much should it cost to
have it done professionally. I ask this cuz I'm responsible for my
mother's home. She has alzheimers and I have legal authority to use
her assets to maintain her property, which I've determined is now
necessary.

So, how much should it cost? And how long should it take? Can it be
done inside a day (8hrs)? Is there a flat rate for the job, or can I
be hosed by an inexperienced plumber who charges by the OJT hour? If
I hadda pay, I do it myself, but I don't. So, what should I expect
from a reputable plumber?

BTW, I'm hoping no dry rot, but we'll see. Also, the actual toilet is
in excellent shape. Jes needs new floor seal.

Thnx.
nb

Assuming no problems other than a wax seal gone bad , I can do one in
under an hour and I'm not even a plumber . Should be a minimum-charge call
IMO for most plumbers . If there's anything else that needs to be done be
prepared to be bent over . Once that toilet is up they got you by the nuts
and they know it . Research plumbers in that neighborhood - ask the
neighbors who they use/like , etc .
--
Snag

On 16 Jan 2014 04:14:01 GMT, notbob wrote:

OK, we've talked at length about replacing the toilet seal
(wax/rubber/whatever). Now, I'm asking, how much should it cost to
have it done professionally. I ask this cuz I'm responsible for my
mother's home. She has alzheimers and I have legal authority to use
her assets to maintain her property, which I've determined is now
necessary.

So, how much should it cost? And how long should it take? Can it be
done inside a day (8hrs)? Is there a flat rate for the job, or can I
be hosed by an inexperienced plumber who charges by the OJT hour? If
I hadda pay, I do it myself, but I don't. So, what should I expect
from a reputable plumber?

BTW, I'm hoping no dry rot, but we'll see. Also, the actual toilet is
in excellent shape. Jes needs new floor seal.

Thnx.
nb


The job should take less than an hour and will be what the minimum a
plumber charges, usually $75 to $100.

Be prepared though, to spend a bit more. I know of two recent jobs
that had to have the flange replaced as it was corroded. Each took at
least another hour. Fortunately, no floor damage to repair.

On 1/16/2014 6:02 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
The job should take less than an hour and will be what the minimum a
plumber charges, usually $75 to $100.

Be prepared though, to spend a bit more. I know of two recent jobs
that had to have the flange replaced as it was corroded. Each took at
least another hour. Fortunately, no floor damage to repair.

I got a call to help some friends, whose toilet rocked.
I found a bad flange. Fortunately, the flange had
cracked, and I was able to break it up with a hammer.
The replacement flange ($25) fit into the pipe, and
the toilet went on without too much trouble. Needed
some shim, of course.

The wax seal was five bucks or so.

A reasonably honest plumber, maybe an hour labor and
ten bucks for the shim. Maybe hundred bucks, as Ed
comments.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 16 Jan 2014 04:14:01 GMT, notbob wrote:

OK, we've talked at length about replacing the toilet seal
(wax/rubber/whatever). Now, I'm asking, how much should it cost to
have it done professionally. I ask this cuz I'm responsible for my
mother's home. She has alzheimers and I have legal authority to use
her assets to maintain her property, which I've determined is now
necessary.

So, how much should it cost? And how long should it take? Can it be
done inside a day (8hrs)? Is there a flat rate for the job, or can I
be hosed by an inexperienced plumber who charges by the OJT hour? If
I hadda pay, I do it myself, but I don't. So, what should I expect
from a reputable plumber?

BTW, I'm hoping no dry rot, but we'll see. Also, the actual toilet is
in excellent shape. Jes needs new floor seal.

Thnx.
nb
Usually takes me less than an hour including the drive to the
plumbing supply/hardware store. The labour charge should be within the
normal "service call" minimum. Around here that's $60. If it takes
more than a day, call the undertaker because your plumber has died on
the job.

On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 10:14:01 PM UTC-6, notbob wrote:
OK, we've talked at length about replacing the toilet seal (wax/rubber/whatever). Now, I'm asking, how much should it cost to have it done professionally. I ask this cuz I'm responsible for my mother's home. She has alzheimers and I have legal authority to use her assets to maintain her property, which I've determined is now necessary. So, how much should it cost? And how long should it take? Can it be done inside a day (8hrs)? Is there a flat rate for the job, or can I be hosed by an inexperienced plumber who charges by the OJT hour? If I hadda pay, I do it myself, but I don't. So, what should I expect from a reputable plumber? BTW, I'm hoping no dry rot, but we'll see. Also, the actual toilet is in excellent shape. Jes needs new floor seal. Thnx. nb

A reasonably competent plumber should have wax seals on his/her truck, especially if you tell her/him what you want done at the time you make the initial contact. If the flange is in good shape (seal not leaking for too long a time) there are two bolts to remove, lift the toilet, exchange the seal, and replace toilet and rebolt to the floor. Even if the tank is removed to make lifting the toilet easier, it should not take more than 45 minutes todo the whole job.

wrote:
On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 10:14:01 PM UTC-6, notbob wrote:
OK, we've talked at length about replacing the toilet seal (wax/rubber/whatever). Now, I'm asking, how much should it cost to have it done professionally. I ask this cuz I'm responsible for my mother's home. She has alzheimers and I have legal authority to use her assets to maintain her property, which I've determined is now necessary. So, how much should it cost? And how long should it take? Can it be done inside a day (8hrs)? Is there a flat rate for the job, or can I be hosed by an inexperienced plumber who charges by the OJT hour? If I hadda pay, I do it myself, but I don't. So, what should I expect from a reputable plumber? BTW, I'm hoping no dry rot, but we'll see. Also, the actual toilet is in excellent shape. Jes needs new floor seal. Thnx. nb
A reasonably competent plumber should have wax seals on his/her truck, especially if you tell her/him what you want done at the time you make the initial contact. If the flange is in good shape (seal not leaking for too long a time) there are two bolts to remove, lift the toilet, exchange the seal, and replace toilet and rebolt to the floor. Even if the tank is removed to make lifting the toilet easier, it should not take more than 45 minutes todo the whole job.

This week, Menards sent me link to a video show the process in detail.
I no longer have the link but it shouldn't be too difficult to track
down. I signed-up to get more of their "How-To" videos.

Bill

On Thu, 16 Jan 2014 23:01:53 -0500, Bill
wrote:

This week, Menards sent me link to a video show the process in detail.
I no longer have the link but it shouldn't be too difficult to track
down. I signed-up to get more of their "How-To" videos.

Bill

Visit:

www.toiletology.com

Toiletology 101 as an online toilet repair course is now over 18 years
old.

butter beans

On 2014-01-17, Oren wrote:

Toiletology 101 as an online toilet repair course is now over 18 years
old.

Long enough to learn how to monetize every link and graphic on their
webite to direct unsuspecting rubes to other commercial sites
providing nothing but money grubbing promos. Thanks fer nothing.

nb

On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 11:14:01 PM UTC-5, notbob wrote:
If I hadda pay, I do it myself, but I don't.

Go fix mom's toilet.

On 16 Jan 2014 04:14:01 GMT, notbob wrote:

OK, we've talked at length about replacing the toilet seal
(wax/rubber/whatever). Now, I'm asking, how much should it cost to
have it done professionally.

That depends on the currency you use in your part of the world, and the
labor costs, minimum wage, etc. To simplify this matter, please specify
how much you pay to get a prostitute for one night. That way, we can
base the price on that.....
Otherwise, call plumbers in your location, and get bids. Maybe you local
building inspector can clue you in on "fair" prics too.

People who ask for prices on worldwide newsgroups are idiots.

On 2014-01-17, wrote:

People who ask for prices on worldwide newsgroups are idiots.

Yet almost all respondents managed, or at least attempted, to reply
with some useful/helpful information. Only you, among all, came off
like a jerk. Gee, whatta stellar accomplishment.

nb

On 1/17/2014 1:20 PM, notbob wrote:
On 2014-01-17, wrote:

People who ask for prices on worldwide newsgroups are idiots.

Yet almost all respondents managed, or at least attempted, to reply
with some useful/helpful information. Only you, among all, came off
like a jerk. Gee, whatta stellar accomplishment.

nb


No one can be specific, but most of the replies gave a ball park number
such as 1 hour at your local plumber's rate. Close enough.

Often we just want to know if something cost a dime or a dollar. Once
in a while you see an item or service and have no idea what is the going
rate.

I also see some people are quick to call others an idiot or other names.
Shows more about them though, and what kind of person they are.

On Thursday, January 16, 2014 8:11:34 AM UTC-5, wrote:
Usually takes me less than an hour including the drive to the

plumbing supply/hardware store.

Simply not possible.

I'm being very picky with your wording. You said THE drive. There is never a THE drive, singular.

A pro has the parts on the truck and doesn't need to drive.

An amateur always has THREE trips on a plumbing job. One to get the parts you think you need, one to get the parts you really need, and one to replace the parts you broke or dropped down the hole.

Sorry, but three is a MINIMUM!

When I do this job I take the tank off for two reasons. One is to spare my back lifting it, and maybe slipping and dropping it. The other is to replace the tank seal and bolts now rather than when they eventually need it. I work slow and careful and check everything twice; it takes me about two hours, including the three trips to the hardware store. Anybody reasonably competent and accustomed to this job should charge under an hour's labor. That's $85 in my local area.

On 2014-01-17, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

No one can be specific, but most of the replies gave a ball park number
such as 1 hour at your local plumber's rate. Close enough.

I learned what I wanted to know. I thought it would be much more
expensive --and it still might be-- but my fears of being hosed for
hundreds of dollars for a mere seal replacement job have been allayed.
Thank you all.

nb

notbob wrote:
On 2014-01-17, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

No one can be specific, but most of the replies gave a ball park number
such as 1 hour at your local plumber's rate. Close enough.

I learned what I wanted to know. I thought it would be much more
expensive --and it still might be-- but my fears of being hosed for
hundreds of dollars for a mere seal replacement job have been allayed.
Thank you all.

nb

Where do you live? I'll do it for a single hundred dollars, plus parts and
travel - assuming it's just the seal. ;-)

On 2014-01-17, DerbyDad03 wrote:

travel - assuming it's just the seal. ;-)

Well now, that's the kicker, isn't it. I know what dry rot can do to
a bathroom floor.

nb --keeping fingers crossed

On Fri, 17 Jan 2014 11:42:29 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

On Thursday, January 16, 2014 8:11:34 AM UTC-5, wrote:
Usually takes me less than an hour including the drive to the

plumbing supply/hardware store.

Simply not possible.

I'm being very picky with your wording. You said THE drive. There is never a THE drive, singular.

A pro has the parts on the truck and doesn't need to drive.

An amateur always has THREE trips on a plumbing job. One to get the parts you think you need, one to get the parts you really need, and one to replace the parts you broke or dropped down the hole.

Sorry, but three is a MINIMUM!

When I do this job I take the tank off for two reasons. One is to spare my back lifting it, and maybe slipping and dropping it. The other is to replace the tank seal and bolts now rather than when they eventually need it. I work slow and careful and check everything twice; it takes me about two hours, including the three trips to the hardware store. Anybody reasonably competent and accustomed to this job should charge under an hour's labor. That's $85 in my local area.
Well, I'm not exactly an AMATEUR - I've learned to take it apart,
find out what I need, make ONE trip to get all the required parts, and
put it back together. Occaisionally that one trip ends up having to
hit 3 or 4 suppliers before I get everything I need - but again, I've
learned who generally carries what, so usually get what I need at the
first or second stop.

I don't go to the hardware store for car parts, or the auto supply
for plumbing parts, or Wallmart for anything.

I have auto supply (x3) hardware store (x2) electrical supply (x3)
and plumbing supply (x2) plus home despot within 2 miles of home.
As well as 2 WallMarts. Wihin 10 miles I can add 2 Ronas, another 4
hardware stores, a Lowes, another Wallmart, another Rona, 2 Home
Building Centers, another Home Despot,and half a dozen more electrical
supply houses and another 5 or 6 auto parts suppliers. Not to mention
a few appliance parts outlets and electronics supply shops.

When doing work for friends out of town it's a 2 trip minimum - one to
load the truck, and one to empty it.

notbob wrote:
On 2014-01-17, DerbyDad03 wrote:

travel - assuming it's just the seal. ;-)

Well now, that's the kicker, isn't it. I know what dry rot can do to
a bathroom floor.

nb --keeping fingers crossed

Many years ago I had a toilet that leaked around the base. When I pulled
the toilet, I found that the concrete base that used to support the tile
had disintegrated, the wooden sub floor was rotted out and the cast iron
flange was cracked. Obviously I had no clue in what order any of those
things occurred, but I knew that I could only fix 2 of the 3. I called an
old time plumber, one who knew how to deal with leaded-in cast iron
flanges. He told me that if I wanted to save some money, I could chisel out
the old solder and oakum, remove the flange, repair the floor and then have
him come in and lead a new flange onto the pipe.

I did as he suggested, then used some pressure treated wood to build up the
floor under the toilet and around the flange so that there was a nice solid
base for the flange to sit on. He came in with his torch, his ladle, his
pack of oakum and put a new flange on in just a few minutes. It was a long
time ago so I don't remember the actual cost, but since I did all of the
upfront work and then reset the toilet myself, the cost was minimal.

Watch this video to get an idea of what I did and then what the plumber
did. After that, you can decide how much of the work you want to do
yourself. You might not even have a leaded-in flange, but at least you'll
get somewhat of an idea of what it looks like under a toilet.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WIa1sTM...DWIa 1sTMenXc

My suggestion would be to at least pull the toilet, clean up the area
around the flange and clean the bottom of the toilet. Then have the plumber
come and fix whatever needs to be fixed and replace the toilet if you don't
want to do it yourself. You can't hurt anything by removing the toilet and
cleaning the area, so why pay a plumber to do that?

If you have any other questions, just ask.

On 2014-01-17, DerbyDad03 wrote:

cleaning the area, so why pay a plumber to do that?

Cuz I can and it's neither my house nor my $$$$ and I think I should
have it done professionally instead of playing DIY, Which I'm not
afraid to do.

Regardless, thank you very much for the youtube link. I had no idea
the underside of a toilet was so involved. I rather doubt it's an
iron pipe and flange, so will need to rely on the plumbers expertise,
anyway. I'm sure it's all PVC, cuz I hadda hook up a new sewage run
(I did a little plumbing when I worked for a pool building company)
for my mom when I came out to visit about 8-9 yrs ago and got a look
at the under floor plumbing at that time.

Again, thanks to all for the info.

nb

On 17 Jan 2014 18:20:29 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2014-01-17, wrote:

People who ask for prices on worldwide newsgroups are idiots.

Yet almost all respondents managed, or at least attempted, to reply
with some useful/helpful information. Only you, among all, came off
like a jerk. Gee, whatta stellar accomplishment.

nb

If people asking for prices could at least state the country they live
in, and if it's the US, their state. then maybe people could assist to
some degree. There is a huge difference in labor costs between some
rural area in Nebraska, and a large city like New York, or LA. The
prices in those cities could easily be 10 times as much as the rural
area. And if you live in Canada, or ???? using dollar figures mean
nothing. I didn't mean to be a jerk, but when asking for prices at
least give a little info about your location.

It's just like occasional posts on here which ask something like
"There's water dripping in my basement, how do I fix it?"

But this is my favorite one of all time........
"I think there may be something broken in my house. I'm not sure what
it is, but I need someone to tell me how to fix it".

On Fri, 17 Jan 2014 22:51:53 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Many years ago I had a toilet that leaked around the base. When I pulled
the toilet, I found that the concrete base that used to support the tile
had disintegrated, the wooden sub floor was rotted out and the cast iron
flange was cracked. Obviously I had no clue in what order any of those
things occurred, but I knew that I could only fix 2 of the 3. I called an
old time plumber, one who knew how to deal with leaded-in cast iron
flanges. He told me that if I wanted to save some money, I could chisel out
the old solder and oakum, remove the flange, repair the floor and then have
him come in and lead a new flange onto the pipe.

I did as he suggested, then used some pressure treated wood to build up the
floor under the toilet and around the flange so that there was a nice solid
base for the flange to sit on. He came in with his torch, his ladle, his
pack of oakum and put a new flange on in just a few minutes. It was a long
time ago so I don't remember the actual cost, but since I did all of the
upfront work and then reset the toilet myself, the cost was minimal.

Watch this video to get an idea of what I did and then what the plumber
did. After that, you can decide how much of the work you want to do
yourself. You might not even have a leaded-in flange, but at least you'll
get somewhat of an idea of what it looks like under a toilet.

You dont need to use lead to attach a cast iron flange anymore. They
sell a bolt-on flange now. You remove the old flange, by simply
breaking it with a hammer (being careful not to break the pipe). Remove
all lead and oakum that remains on the pipe. Buy one of these bolt-on
flanges, slip it over the pipe, and get it level with the floor. Then
tighten the 4 bolts on top of it. As the bolts are tightened, a rubber
boot gets tighter and tighter around the pipe. Once the bolts are all
the way snug, you're done! Simple as can be!

These work on both cast iron and PVC pipe.

Although doing leading, is really not all that hard. I've done many of
them and other leading in the past, when I worked as a plumber. The
biggest problem is thart you need a lead pot, and lead "furnace" (flame
device to melt it}, plus a few special tools to tamp it in place. In a
pinch, I've melted lead with a turbo propane torch, but it takes awhile.

The nice thing about thse bolt-on flanges is that they can be raised if
the floor gets raised (ceramic tile, or underlayment), and they are
reusable too.

Finally, rotted floors around toilets are very common. Building codes
should require treated wood around them in new homes. But even if they
did, there are millions of old houses that either need floor repair, or
have already had them replaced. I have heard stories of people falling
thru the floor on the toilet. I've never seen proof, but it is
possible, ifthere is no joist under the toilet, and particularly if the
pipes are PVC, since cast iron popes have more support. I did see a
toilet fall partway thru the floor in a trailer house. Trailers use
that crappy particle board for the floors, and stuff just falls apart
when wet. The trailer was vacant, so I dont know if anyone was on the
toilet when the toilet fell in. I also had to repair another trailer
house where the toilet tipped over, while the house was being moved. I
got a laugh when I saw that one. The floor was so decayed that the
toilet was not attached to anything, and just tipped over. That job
required gutting the whole bathroom, and replacing the entire bathroom
floor. Part of that problem was due to the owner being severely
overweight. He put a leg thru the floor once, and another time was
sitting on a kitchen chair and two chair legs went thru the floor.
Eventually he had to cover all the floors in that trailer with plywood.

On 1/18/2014 7:25 AM, wrote:
If people asking for prices could at least state the country they live
in, and if it's the US, their state. then maybe people could assist to
some degree. There is a huge difference in labor costs between some
rural area in Nebraska, and a large city like New York, or LA. The
prices in those cities could easily be 10 times as much as the rural
area. And if you live in Canada, or ???? using dollar figures mean
nothing. I didn't mean to be a jerk, but when asking for prices at
least give a little info about your location.

It's just like occasional posts on here which ask something like
"There's water dripping in my basement, how do I fix it?"

But this is my favorite one of all time........
"I think there may be something broken in my house. I'm not sure what
it is, but I need someone to tell me how to fix it".

You know, that sure would be helpful, to have
better information. I think that like the light
boxes on the ceiling poster, some folks just
don't know what the information is needed.

And of course, there are the occasional troll.
Those are sometimes possible to spot.

I'll admit to having a good laugh at some of the
comical trolls. The Ranco Ball Rotator was one.

This week coming up is going to be near zero F
cold in western NYS, USA. I'm going to have to
decide if I want to leave a faucet dripping in
the sink, to reduce the chance of pipe freezing.
Easy decision, I remember how bitter cold that
was, to be standing out there with an electric
heat gun, while the +2F cold outdoor wind was
blowing on me. I'll admit, I totally did not
expect that intensity of discussion. And I did
not expect nor desire the bitter battle about the
freezing pipes. Ah, well. Discussions can take
on a life of their own.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote:
On 17 Jan 2014 18:20:29 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2014-01-17, wrote:

People who ask for prices on worldwide newsgroups are idiots.
Yet almost all respondents managed, or at least attempted, to reply
with some useful/helpful information. Only you, among all, came off
like a jerk. Gee, whatta stellar accomplishment.

nb

If people asking for prices could at least state the country they live
in, and if it's the US, their state. then maybe people could assist to
some degree. There is a huge difference in labor costs between some
rural area in Nebraska, and a large city like New York, or LA. The
prices in those cities could easily be 10 times as much as the rural
area. And if you live in Canada, or ???? using dollar figures mean
nothing. I didn't mean to be a jerk, but when asking for prices at
least give a little info about your location.

It's just like occasional posts on here which ask something like
"There's water dripping in my basement, how do I fix it?"

But this is my favorite one of all time........
"I think there may be something broken in my house. I'm not sure what
it is, but I need someone to tell me how to fix it".



Below is my default sig line for any news post on my news server
(eternal-september) so no one has to ask where I am located.

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @

I also have a different sig line for the Mozilla Org news server
so no one has to ask what Mozilla products I have.

Bill in Hamptonburgh NY
Windows 7 Home SP 1.
Firefox 20.0.1
Thunderbird 2.0.0.19
To email reply, remove the double zeros after @


--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @

wrote:
On Fri, 17 Jan 2014 22:51:53 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Many years ago I had a toilet that leaked around the base. When I pulled
the toilet, I found that the concrete base that used to support the tile
had disintegrated, the wooden sub floor was rotted out and the cast iron
flange was cracked. Obviously I had no clue in what order any of those
things occurred, but I knew that I could only fix 2 of the 3. I called an
old time plumber, one who knew how to deal with leaded-in cast iron
flanges. He told me that if I wanted to save some money, I could chisel out
the old solder and oakum, remove the flange, repair the floor and then have
him come in and lead a new flange onto the pipe.

I did as he suggested, then used some pressure treated wood to build up the
floor under the toilet and around the flange so that there was a nice solid
base for the flange to sit on. He came in with his torch, his ladle, his
pack of oakum and put a new flange on in just a few minutes. It was a long
time ago so I don't remember the actual cost, but since I did all of the
upfront work and then reset the toilet myself, the cost was minimal.

Watch this video to get an idea of what I did and then what the plumber
did. After that, you can decide how much of the work you want to do
yourself. You might not even have a leaded-in flange, but at least you'll
get somewhat of an idea of what it looks like under a toilet.

You dont need to use lead to attach a cast iron flange anymore. They
sell a bolt-on flange now. You remove the old flange, by simply
breaking it with a hammer (being careful not to break the pipe). Remove
all lead and oakum that remains on the pipe. Buy one of these bolt-on
flanges, slip it over the pipe, and get it level with the floor. Then
tighten the 4 bolts on top of it. As the bolts are tightened, a rubber
boot gets tighter and tighter around the pipe. Once the bolts are all
the way snug, you're done! Simple as can be!

These work on both cast iron and PVC pipe.

Although doing leading, is really not all that hard. I've done many of
them and other leading in the past, when I worked as a plumber. The
biggest problem is thart you need a lead pot, and lead "furnace" (flame
device to melt it}, plus a few special tools to tamp it in place. In a
pinch, I've melted lead with a turbo propane torch, but it takes awhile.

The nice thing about thse bolt-on flanges is that they can be raised if
the floor gets raised (ceramic tile, or underlayment), and they are
reusable too.

Finally, rotted floors around toilets are very common. Building codes
should require treated wood around them in new homes. But even if they
did, there are millions of old houses that either need floor repair, or
have already had them replaced. I have heard stories of people falling
thru the floor on the toilet. I've never seen proof, but it is
possible, ifthere is no joist under the toilet, and particularly if the
pipes are PVC, since cast iron popes have more support. I did see a
toilet fall partway thru the floor in a trailer house. Trailers use
that crappy particle board for the floors, and stuff just falls apart
when wet. The trailer was vacant, so I dont know if anyone was on the
toilet when the toilet fell in. I also had to repair another trailer
house where the toilet tipped over, while the house was being moved. I
got a laugh when I saw that one. The floor was so decayed that the
toilet was not attached to anything, and just tipped over. That job
required gutting the whole bathroom, and replacing the entire bathroom
floor. Part of that problem was due to the owner being severely
overweight. He put a leg thru the floor once, and another time was
sitting on a kitchen chair and two chair legs went thru the floor.
Eventually he had to cover all the floors in that trailer with plywood.

Speaking of floor problems in bathrooms...

In the same mid-50's house where I had the flange replaced, the tiles in
that bathroom were the 1" square style. Sometime in the mid-80's, the tiles
in front of the sink began to pop off of the mortar bed. The 2" mortar bed
was beginning to crumble. A remodel wasn't in the plans (or budget) just
yet, so I squared off the area around the bad section, removed the tiles
and mortar and built it back up with a few layers of plywood. A bathroom
throw rug covered the temporary repair for a few years while we had a few
babies and tried to save up money.

When remodeling time finally came around, I gutted the bathroom and began
replacing the galvanized drains with PVC. When I pulled the T&G subfloor in
front of the sink, I found something weird. Instead of the joists being 16"
OC like everywhere in the house, the section right in front of the sink was
about 22" OC. As far as I can tell this is the only joist bay in the house
where this spacing exists. I can only assume that the builders needed an
extra 6" someplace and that's where they decided to get it. The problem
was, they chose one of the heaviest trafficked area of the house, not to
mention the only tiled area of the house, to widen the joist spacing.

Before closing up the floor I added some extra bracing between the joists
in that area to hopefully prevent any future movement. So far, no problems.

On Saturday, January 18, 2014 7:38:27 AM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:
wrote:

On Fri, 17 Jan 2014 22:51:53 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03

snip

Speaking of floor problems in bathrooms...

In the same mid-50's house where I had the flange replaced, the tiles in
that bathroom were the 1" square style. Sometime in the mid-80's, the tiles
in front of the sink began to pop off of the mortar bed. The 2" mortar bed
was beginning to crumble. A remodel wasn't in the plans (or budget) just
yet, so I squared off the area around the bad section, removed the tiles
and mortar and built it back up with a few layers of plywood. A bathroom
throw rug covered the temporary repair for a few years while we had a few
babies and tried to save up money.

When remodeling time finally came around, I gutted the bathroom and began
replacing the galvanized drains with PVC. When I pulled the T&G subfloor in
front of the sink, I found something weird. Instead of the joists being 16"
OC like everywhere in the house, the section right in front of the sink was
about 22" OC. As far as I can tell this is the only joist bay in the house
where this spacing exists. I can only assume that the builders needed an
extra 6" someplace and that's where they decided to get it. The problem
was, they chose one of the heaviest trafficked area of the house, not to
mention the only tiled area of the house, to widen the joist spacing.
Before closing up the floor I added some extra bracing between the joists
in that area to hopefully prevent any future movement. So far, no problems.

When I retired from the military, I bought a small house on a couple acres in the couny. Being a "country boy" I was NOT going to spend mylife living in a town.

During various remodelings, I found that that small house was originally 2 small bunkhouses that had been drug in and nailed together. 2X6 joists about 30" o.c.. somehone had inserted additional joistsbut they weren't nailed to anything except at the ends. I re-nailed using glue coat screw types through the "finished" (hah!) and subfloor. Took the bounce out.

Harry K

notbob posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


On 2014-01-17, wrote:

People who ask for prices on worldwide newsgroups are idiots.

Yet almost all respondents managed, or at least attempted, to reply
with some useful/helpful information. Only you, among all, came off
like a jerk. Gee, whatta stellar accomplishment.

nb

He wants you to get the seal at Walgreen's

--
Tekkie