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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

Just added six naked light bulbs to the ceiling of my garage and the
improvement in visibility for working is so good that I want to add
three more.

For the six, I threw myself on the mercy of the guy in the Home Depot
electrical aisle: #14 Romex between bulbs.

But when I got home, I realized that the porcelain fixtures used for the
bulbs do not have a ground connection, so the ground wire in the Romex
is wasted.

3 bulbs, 25 watts each... seems like I could just use lamp cord...

Or is there a fallacy in that reasoning?
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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

On 1/15/2014 7:37 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Just added six naked light bulbs to the ceiling of my garage and the
improvement in visibility for working is so good that I want to add
three more.

For the six, I threw myself on the mercy of the guy in the Home Depot
electrical aisle: #14 Romex between bulbs.

But when I got home, I realized that the porcelain fixtures used for the
bulbs do not have a ground connection, so the ground wire in the Romex
is wasted.

3 bulbs, 25 watts each... seems like I could just use lamp cord...

Or is there a fallacy in that reasoning?

I'd sure try it. Not as sturdy as Romex,
but might not be an issue. Stapled along
the beams, and no "free hanging" wire,
right?

Many shop lighting folks use 48 inch
fluorescent fixtures.

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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

On Wed, 15 Jan 2014 19:37:25 -0500, "(PeteCresswell)"
wrote:

Just added six naked light bulbs to the ceiling of my garage and the
improvement in visibility for working is so good that I want to add
three more.

For the six, I threw myself on the mercy of the guy in the Home Depot
electrical aisle: #14 Romex between bulbs.

But when I got home, I realized that the porcelain fixtures used for the
bulbs do not have a ground connection, so the ground wire in the Romex
is wasted.

3 bulbs, 25 watts each... seems like I could just use lamp cord...

Or is there a fallacy in that reasoning?


Lamp cord will carry the load, but the size of the wire depends on the
breaker. 15A breaker requires #14 and a 20A requires #12

If the boxes are metal, the ground keeps the metal from becoming
energized.
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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?


"(PeteCresswell)" wrote in message
...
Just added six naked light bulbs to the ceiling of my garage and the
improvement in visibility for working is so good that I want to add
three more.

For the six, I threw myself on the mercy of the guy in the Home Depot
electrical aisle: #14 Romex between bulbs.

But when I got home, I realized that the porcelain fixtures used for the
bulbs do not have a ground connection, so the ground wire in the Romex
is wasted.

3 bulbs, 25 watts each... seems like I could just use lamp cord...


You need to make sure the size of the wire matches the breaker it is
connected to. Probably a 15 am breaker, so # 14 wire is needed.



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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

On 1/15/2014 7:49 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

You need to make sure the size of the wire matches the breaker it is
connected to. Probably a 15 am breaker, so # 14 wire is needed.


You mean I need to scrap all my lamp cords
and put #14 wire on my desk lamp, shaver,
and table top radio?

(OP can put in a power socket, and run the
lamps off lamp cord and a plug. Make the
lamps look temporary.)

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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

"(PeteCresswell)" wrote in news:a7aed95ng4kmni1v21518cdshnu37m0fp2@
4ax.com:

Just added six naked light bulbs to the ceiling of my garage and the
improvement in visibility for working is so good that I want to add
three more.

For the six, I threw myself on the mercy of the guy in the Home Depot
electrical aisle: #14 Romex between bulbs.

But when I got home, I realized that the porcelain fixtures used for the
bulbs do not have a ground connection, so the ground wire in the Romex
is wasted.

3 bulbs, 25 watts each... seems like I could just use lamp cord...

Or is there a fallacy in that reasoning?


Lamp cord is fine for cord-and-plug-connected lamps, but installing it as premises wiring is
a violation of the National Electrical Code.
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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

On Wed, 15 Jan 2014 20:09:40 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/15/2014 7:49 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

You need to make sure the size of the wire matches the breaker it is
connected to. Probably a 15 am breaker, so # 14 wire is needed.


You mean I need to scrap all my lamp cords
and put #14 wire on my desk lamp, shaver,
and table top radio?

(OP can put in a power socket, and run the
lamps off lamp cord and a plug. Make the
lamps look temporary.)


It will work, it is just not code.
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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

On Wed, 15 Jan 2014 19:37:25 -0500, "(PeteCresswell)"
wrote:

Just added six naked light bulbs to the ceiling of my garage and the
improvement in visibility for working is so good that I want to add
three more.

For the six, I threw myself on the mercy of the guy in the Home Depot
electrical aisle: #14 Romex between bulbs.

But when I got home, I realized that the porcelain fixtures used for the
bulbs do not have a ground connection, so the ground wire in the Romex
is wasted.

3 bulbs, 25 watts each... seems like I could just use lamp cord...

Or is there a fallacy in that reasoning?

Cannot use lampcord for "permanent installation"
Steel boxes, or plastic? If steel, ground the boxes.
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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

On 1/15/2014 7:49 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:


You need to make sure the size of the wire matches the breaker it is
connected to. Probably a 15 am breaker, so # 14 wire is needed.


My wife has a hard time stringing lights on the Christmas tree with the
14-2 wire. For wiring to code, you are correct. It he is making a plug
in string, other wire will work OK


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On 1/15/2014 8:57 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Years ago, I was talking to a counter man at
an electrical supply house. He told me of one
customer, ordering large amounts of lamp cord.
Finally the counter man asked if he was doing
appliance repair. No, the customer said he was
rewiring his house, and that Romex stuff was too
hard to get through the walls.

Real story, told to me. Maybe twenty or so years
ago. People now days, not much smarter.


I;ve seen it. Back in the 60's and 70's I did some sideline window and
door work. Some of my business was in new house developments. Many
finished the basements and I've seen some strange things.. Lampcord was
one of them.
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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

On Wed, 15 Jan 2014 22:00:12 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 1/15/2014 8:57 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Years ago, I was talking to a counter man at
an electrical supply house. He told me of one
customer, ordering large amounts of lamp cord.
Finally the counter man asked if he was doing
appliance repair. No, the customer said he was
rewiring his house, and that Romex stuff was too
hard to get through the walls.

Real story, told to me. Maybe twenty or so years
ago. People now days, not much smarter.


I;ve seen it. Back in the 60's and 70's I did some sideline window and
door work. Some of my business was in new house developments. Many
finished the basements and I've seen some strange things.. Lampcord was
one of them.


Looking to buy our house I looked at quite a few. Found one - very
nice, basement nicely finished - until I looked in the adjacent room
and found the basement was wired with old outdoor telephone wire -
like solid steel twinleed. - no ground. Happens the seller was a
retired Bell guy.
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On Wed, 15 Jan 2014 22:21:49 -0500, wrote:


Looking to buy our house I looked at quite a few. Found one - very
nice, basement nicely finished - until I looked in the adjacent room
and found the basement was wired with old outdoor telephone wire -
like solid steel twinleed. - no ground. Happens the seller was a
retired Bell guy.


I have a friend who had an electrician wire up an outdoor shed, about 30
feet from the house. The wire was buried underground. THe lights
constantly flickered. The guy plugged in a small portable air
compressor, and the shed lights got so dim we could not see in there.
The next time I went there during the day, I inspected the wiring. This
"so called" electrician ran that old telephone wire underground. It was
connected to a 20A breaker in the house. Shortly afterwards, we dug up
this wire and it was very old and brittle, with bare spots in the
insulation. We replaced it with 12-2+G UF. It worked much better. He
confronted that electrician, but the guy refused to do anything. My
friend did not want to go to court over it, but I did some checking and
found the guy was not licensed.

Shortly afterwards, someone else filed a complaint about this guy,
because his cattle were getting shocked off some outdoor electrical
boxes. It turned out the guy never connected the ground wires to any
boxes or devices. The last I heard, legal action was taken and the guy
is no longer doing any electrical work.

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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

Just added six naked light bulbs to the ceiling of my garage and the
improvement in visibility for working is so good that I want to add
three more.

For the six, I threw myself on the mercy of the guy in the Home Depot
electrical aisle: #14 Romex between bulbs.

But when I got home, I realized that the porcelain fixtures used for the
bulbs do not have a ground connection, so the ground wire in the Romex
is wasted.

3 bulbs, 25 watts each... seems like I could just use lamp cord...

Or is there a fallacy in that reasoning?


*For permanent wiring attached to a building you must use an approved wiring
method such as Romex, BX, MC or conduit. That includes installing the
proper size electrical boxes with approved fittings and grounding all metal.
Lamp cord is not rated for a permanent installation. In a garage where the
temperature and humidity is not fairly constant the cord insulation will
eventually dry out and become brittle. Using lamp cord in this manner is
just asking for trouble.

How about posting a picture of this job?

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On 1/15/2014 6:37 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Just added six naked light bulbs to the ceiling of my garage and the
improvement in visibility for working is so good that I want to add
three more.

For the six, I threw myself on the mercy of the guy in the Home Depot
electrical aisle: #14 Romex between bulbs.

But when I got home, I realized that the porcelain fixtures used for the
bulbs do not have a ground connection, so the ground wire in the Romex
is wasted.

3 bulbs, 25 watts each... seems like I could just use lamp cord...



You really mean 25 W bulbs or...oh, CFL's; can't get used to not being
incandescent.

In addition to other comments note that while it's electrically ok, by
Code exposed wiring in an accessible space is required to be protected
if it isn't in the attic space above the garage but run on surface
between fixtures.

As a convenience factor, while it's a little more effort, it would be
_a_good_thing_ (tm) to have at least one set of these on a second
circuit so wouldn't be in dark if a single breaker tripped while in the
garage while there's not external light available (that is, after dark).

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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?


"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
"(PeteCresswell)" wrote in
news:a7aed95ng4kmni1v21518cdshnu37m0fp2@
4ax.com:

Just added six naked light bulbs to the ceiling of my garage and the
improvement in visibility for working is so good that I want to add
three more.

For the six, I threw myself on the mercy of the guy in the Home Depot
electrical aisle: #14 Romex between bulbs.

But when I got home, I realized that the porcelain fixtures used for the
bulbs do not have a ground connection, so the ground wire in the Romex
is wasted.

3 bulbs, 25 watts each... seems like I could just use lamp cord...

Or is there a fallacy in that reasoning?


Lamp cord is fine for cord-and-plug-connected lamps, but installing it as
premises wiring is
a violation of the National Electrical Code.


It might be a violation , but it works as *temporary* lighting . Right now
there are 3 porcelain fixtures on the ceiling of our new room that are wired
with zip cord . I wired them into the switch box to make it easy on the wife
, she doesn't like fumbling with an extension cord in the dark . Neither do
I ...
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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 5:09:40 PM UTC-8, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 1/15/2014 7:49 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:


You need to make sure the size of the wire matches the breaker it is
connected to. Probably a 15 am breaker, so # 14 wire is needed.


You mean I need to scrap all my lamp cords
and put #14 wire on my desk lamp, shaver,
and table top radio?


No, of course not. the code requires the wire to be #14 from the breaker to the receptacle box. What you plug in is up to you.

Harry K
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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

Per dpb:
In addition to other comments note that while it's electrically ok,
by Code exposed wiring in an accessible space is required to be
protected if it isn't in the attic space above the garage but run on
surface between fixtures.


I'm figuring there's a functional reason for Code rules.... and maybe
that's it for this one.

I take "Protected" to mean more immune to foreign objects breaking
through the insulation and exposing wire... and that would make sense.
The exposure with small appliance cords is there... but we live with
that because of the convenience/usability tradeoffs. OTOH, on long
fixed runs, there's no convenience/usability consideration so we want
protection.

Does that fly?

If so, what about the ground wire. Assuming plastic boxes, would there
be an alternative #14 wire without the wasted ground wire?
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Per John Grabowski:
How about posting a picture of this job?


http://tinyurl.com/qfjqfdq
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On 1/16/2014 10:31 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per dpb:
In addition to other comments note that while it's electrically ok,
by Code exposed wiring in an accessible space is required to be
protected if it isn't in the attic space above the garage but run on
surface between fixtures.


I'm figuring there's a functional reason for Code rules.... and maybe
that's it for this one.

I take "Protected" to mean more immune to foreign objects breaking
through the insulation and exposing wire... and that would make sense.
The exposure with small appliance cords is there... but we live with
that because of the convenience/usability tradeoffs. OTOH, on long
fixed runs, there's no convenience/usability consideration so we want
protection.

Does that fly?


A large part of the UL investigation for flexible cord is flexibility.
That is not an issue for romex, and it is investigated for rather
different properties. I wouldn't use flexible cord (even with the right
wire size) as a replacement for romex except for temporary use.


If so, what about the ground wire. Assuming plastic boxes, would there
be an alternative #14 wire without the wasted ground wire?


Romex to a few lights in a garage costs that much?



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On Thu, 16 Jan 2014 09:41:53 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:


"Doug Miller" wrote in message
.. .
"(PeteCresswell)" wrote in
news:a7aed95ng4kmni1v21518cdshnu37m0fp2@
4ax.com:

Just added six naked light bulbs to the ceiling of my garage and the
improvement in visibility for working is so good that I want to add
three more.

For the six, I threw myself on the mercy of the guy in the Home Depot
electrical aisle: #14 Romex between bulbs.

But when I got home, I realized that the porcelain fixtures used for the
bulbs do not have a ground connection, so the ground wire in the Romex
is wasted.

3 bulbs, 25 watts each... seems like I could just use lamp cord...

Or is there a fallacy in that reasoning?


Lamp cord is fine for cord-and-plug-connected lamps, but installing it as
premises wiring is
a violation of the National Electrical Code.


It might be a violation , but it works as *temporary* lighting . Right now
there are 3 porcelain fixtures on the ceiling of our new room that are wired
with zip cord . I wired them into the switch box to make it easy on the wife
, she doesn't like fumbling with an extension cord in the dark . Neither do
I ...

Wire receptacle to switch, and plug in "temporary" lighting with lamp
cords. Then you are legal - as long as the lights are mounted in a
"temporary" fashion - like hung from hooks, not screwed to the
building.
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On Thu, 16 Jan 2014 11:31:15 -0500, "(PeteCresswell)"
wrote:

Per dpb:
In addition to other comments note that while it's electrically ok,
by Code exposed wiring in an accessible space is required to be
protected if it isn't in the attic space above the garage but run on
surface between fixtures.


I'm figuring there's a functional reason for Code rules.... and maybe
that's it for this one.

I take "Protected" to mean more immune to foreign objects breaking
through the insulation and exposing wire... and that would make sense.
The exposure with small appliance cords is there... but we live with
that because of the convenience/usability tradeoffs. OTOH, on long
fixed runs, there's no convenience/usability consideration so we want
protection.

Does that fly?

If so, what about the ground wire. Assuming plastic boxes, would there
be an alternative #14 wire without the wasted ground wire?

None made any more. Not since the sixties that would be "approved"
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On Thu, 16 Jan 2014 10:48:48 -0600, bud-- wrote:

On 1/16/2014 10:31 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per dpb:
In addition to other comments note that while it's electrically ok,
by Code exposed wiring in an accessible space is required to be
protected if it isn't in the attic space above the garage but run on
surface between fixtures.


I'm figuring there's a functional reason for Code rules.... and maybe
that's it for this one.

I take "Protected" to mean more immune to foreign objects breaking
through the insulation and exposing wire... and that would make sense.
The exposure with small appliance cords is there... but we live with
that because of the convenience/usability tradeoffs. OTOH, on long
fixed runs, there's no convenience/usability consideration so we want
protection.

Does that fly?


A large part of the UL investigation for flexible cord is flexibility.
That is not an issue for romex, and it is investigated for rather
different properties. I wouldn't use flexible cord (even with the right
wire size) as a replacement for romex except for temporary use.


If so, what about the ground wire. Assuming plastic boxes, would there
be an alternative #14 wire without the wasted ground wire?


Romex to a few lights in a garage costs that much?

I might still have a few pieces of NMD2 without ground lying around
- from past tear-outs
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Per bud--:

Romex to a few lights in a garage costs that much?


No... it's just the idea... wasting that conductor.

Probably easier to physically manipulate with only 2 conductors too.

If there were two legal products on the same shelf side-by-side, I'd
pick the one without the unused ground.

But I agree with the spirit of your observation.
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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

On Thursday, January 16, 2014 11:48:48 AM UTC-5, bud-- wrote:
On 1/16/2014 10:31 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:

Per dpb:


In addition to other comments note that while it's electrically ok,


by Code exposed wiring in an accessible space is required to be


protected if it isn't in the attic space above the garage but run on


surface between fixtures.




I'm figuring there's a functional reason for Code rules.... and maybe


that's it for this one.




I take "Protected" to mean more immune to foreign objects breaking


through the insulation and exposing wire... and that would make sense.


The exposure with small appliance cords is there... but we live with


that because of the convenience/usability tradeoffs. OTOH, on long


fixed runs, there's no convenience/usability consideration so we want


protection.




Does that fly?




A large part of the UL investigation for flexible cord is flexibility.

That is not an issue for romex, and it is investigated for rather

different properties. I wouldn't use flexible cord (even with the right

wire size) as a replacement for romex except for temporary use.





If so, what about the ground wire. Assuming plastic boxes, would there


be an alternative #14 wire without the wasted ground wire?




Romex to a few lights in a garage costs that much?


That's probably the best answer so far..... Only issue there is
IDK if HD, etc sell Romex by the foot like they do lamp wire, etc.
Might have to buy 25ft roll, but maybe they do sell it by the foot.
If it's by the foot, I agree, not enough cost diff to worry about
and it's not code to use lamp wire. Plus depending on if the wire
is visible, if the house is sold, it's something any inspector
should find and flag.


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On 1/16/2014 10:31 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per dpb:
In addition to other comments note that while it's electrically ok,
by Code exposed wiring in an accessible space is required to be
protected if it isn't in the attic space above the garage but run on
surface between fixtures.


I'm figuring there's a functional reason for Code rules.... and maybe
that's it for this one.

I take "Protected" to mean more immune to foreign objects breaking
through the insulation and exposing wire... and that would make sense.
The exposure with small appliance cords is there... but we live with
that because of the convenience/usability tradeoffs. OTOH, on long
fixed runs, there's no convenience/usability consideration so we want
protection.

Does that fly?


What, specifically, is it that "that" refers to? Wiring and device
cords are two completely different animals by Code; one has nothing
whatever to do with the other as far as compliance rules.

You don't say how you did the installation; if you did run romex between
outlets and tacked it to the ceiling joists, then think "conduit"
between to make it legal or the surface-mount square tube or you could
get by with a "canal" made of furring strips on either side.

But, yes, it is simply mechanical protection, not electrical/functional
in the requirement. I've got places here on the farm where I haven't
follow the rule because in reality the location is so high and there is
no likelihood of equipment or other stuff actually ever getting in
contact with it and it's never going to be an issue of needing
inspection or a requiring correction for future sale or any such thing;
I simply bring it up as in a residential garage while the same may be
true for the height/accessibility part so it really may not be an issue
from a practical standpoint, the likelihood is pretty good that at some
point the inspection/sale may require rework that may as well just avoid
from the git-go. Plus, overall, it's just "the thing to do" even if can
get away with less.

If so, what about the ground wire. Assuming plastic boxes, would there
be an alternative #14 wire without the wasted ground wire?


Again by Code, the ground is to be there. I've not kept up on changes
in Code for existing two-wire circuits as far as whether they're still
grandfathered or not and of course it's any local jurisdiction that has
actual control/say-so even if NEC does still allow it. You could,
physically, run two single wires (say conduit) but in short chunks
probably as costly if not more so than the Romex anyway.

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:
How about posting a picture of this job?


http://tinyurl.com/qfjqfdq



*It looks as though you used metal octagon boxes with the light sockets
attached. The metal boxes need to be grounded. There is a 10/32 tapped
hole in the back of the box for this. It also looks as though you ran the
Romex through the knockouts without a connector. You could have used a
button or a Romex connector.

I would have just installed a couple of 8' pans with 4' T8 lamps. Less wire
on the ceiling and more even illumination. Also you would have a little bit
more head room.

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On Thursday, January 16, 2014 12:40:13 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thu, 16 Jan 2014 11:31:15 -0500, "(PeteCresswell)"

wrote:



Per dpb:


In addition to other comments note that while it's electrically ok,


by Code exposed wiring in an accessible space is required to be


protected if it isn't in the attic space above the garage but run on


surface between fixtures.




I'm figuring there's a functional reason for Code rules.... and maybe


that's it for this one.




I take "Protected" to mean more immune to foreign objects breaking


through the insulation and exposing wire... and that would make sense.


The exposure with small appliance cords is there... but we live with


that because of the convenience/usability tradeoffs. OTOH, on long


fixed runs, there's no convenience/usability consideration so we want


protection.




Does that fly?




If so, what about the ground wire. Assuming plastic boxes, would there


be an alternative #14 wire without the wasted ground wire?


None made any more. Not since the sixties that would be "approved"


I've never seen someone so hung up on a "wasted" ground wire
that is part of romex. I just went to HD website to see the cost
difference between 14-2 Romex with grnd and 16 gauge lamp cord. They sell both
by the foot. Romex is 44 cents and lamp cord is 41 cents. If you buy
25 ft to run some garage lights, why all the fuss?

And aside from the price and code compliance, proper
code compliant clamps are made for securing romex to the boxes,
romex can be stapled with standard, available staples, etc. I just
don't see the need to wander in the wilderness.
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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

On 1/16/2014 10:41 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:

It might be a violation , but it works as *temporary* lighting . Right now
there are 3 porcelain fixtures on the ceiling of our new room that are wired
with zip cord . I wired them into the switch box to make it easy on the wife
, she doesn't like fumbling with an extension cord in the dark . Neither do
I ...


I figure floor or table lamp on a cord
with cord on the floor is OK where people
step on it. Cord on the ceiling out of
reach is.... ??

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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

On 1/16/2014 11:03 AM, Harry K wrote:

You mean I need to scrap all my lamp cords
and put #14 wire on my desk lamp, shaver,
and table top radio?


No, of course not. the code requires the wire to be #14 from the breaker to the receptacle box. What you plug in is up to you.

Harry K

OK if I plug in a bit of lamp cord, and a couple
porcelean sockets?

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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

On 1/16/2014 11:47 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per John Grabowski:
How about posting a picture of this job?


http://tinyurl.com/qfjqfdq

Looks like the zipcord would be totally out
of reach of children. I'd do it if it were
my garage. Though, others would see the metal
work boxes, and insist on grounded 14 AWG
Romex. Sigh.

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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

On 1/16/2014 3:24 PM, John Grabowski wrote:


http://tinyurl.com/qfjqfdq



*It looks as though you used metal octagon boxes with the light sockets
attached. The metal boxes need to be grounded. There is a 10/32 tapped
hole in the back of the box for this. It also looks as though you ran
the Romex through the knockouts without a connector. You could have
used a button or a Romex connector.

I would have just installed a couple of 8' pans with 4' T8 lamps. Less
wire on the ceiling and more even illumination. Also you would have a
little bit more head room.


Good eye. I noticed the lack of romex connectors,
but didn't quite catch it soon enough. I also favor
4 or 8 foot fluorescent tubes. Even light, and less
shadows.

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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

Per Stormin Mormon:
Though, others would see the metal
work boxes, and insist on grounded 14 AWG
Romex. Sigh.


At the risk of sounding inane - but just to be sure - the reason for
grounding the metal boxes is to protect somebody touching the box from
electrical shock in case one of the hot wires contacted the box.... have
I got it right?
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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

Per Metspitzer:
What are the odds............
This is the stuff that keep safety conscience people up at night.
http://www.bored.com/crazywarnings/


I heard a standup comedian observe that the really scary part about
warnings like that is that somebody probably did whatever was being
warned against... or there would not have been just that warning.
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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

On 1/17/2014 1:57 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per Stormin Mormon:
Though, others would see the metal
work boxes, and insist on grounded 14 AWG
Romex. Sigh.


At the risk of sounding inane - but just to be sure - the reason for
grounding the metal boxes is to protect somebody touching the box from
electrical shock in case one of the hot wires contacted the box.... have
I got it right?

Yes, that's my understanding.

I've not read the NEC, but sounds
like something they might write.

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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

On 01/16/2014 10:47 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per John Grabowski:
How about posting a picture of this job?


http://tinyurl.com/qfjqfdq




Definitely DO NOT use line cord.

Use romex. The ground wire goes to the metal box.
It also looks like you neglected to install the strain reliefs.
Considering they cost only pennies, that's not a wise way to try to save
costs.


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Default Daisy-Chaining Light Bulbs: Wire?

On 1/17/2014 2:02 PM, philo wrote:
On 01/16/2014 10:47 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
http://tinyurl.com/qfjqfdq


Definitely DO NOT use line cord.

Use romex. The ground wire goes to the metal box.
It also looks like you neglected to install the strain reliefs.
Considering they cost only pennies, that's not a wise way to try to save
costs.


So, what happens if he does use lamp cord?

I suspect he didn't know about strain reliefs
(Romex connectors), and that's why he didn't
use them.
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