I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help
remove it.

Good idea?

On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help
remove it.

Good idea?


Coarse valve grinding compound works better, if you have some handy.

nate

I doubt the rubber is strong enough to do any good.

You might be able to slot the head with a dremel and
small cut off wheel. Use slotted screw driver.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help
remove it.

Good idea?

On 8/27/2013 1:12 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help
remove it.

Good idea?


Coarse valve grinding compound works better, if you have some handy.

nate

The supply houses were selling a squeeze tube of a grease like compound
that had grit in it and was meant to allow a damaged Phillips head screw
to be removed easily without the driver slipping. ^_^

TDD

On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help
remove it.

Good idea?


How will that help stripped threads?

Very little. Might help stripped screw slot.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 8/27/2013 5:38 PM, Al Borland wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help
remove it.

Good idea?


How will that help stripped threads?

On Tue, 27 Aug 2013 14:59:36 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

I doubt the rubber is strong enough to do any good.

You might be able to slot the head with a dremel and
small cut off wheel. Use slotted screw driver.

Bad plan. If you have damage the thing, use an EZ-out. Replace.

On 8/27/2013 4:58 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:12 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help
remove it.

Good idea?


Coarse valve grinding compound works better, if you have some handy.

nate

The supply houses were selling a squeeze tube of a grease like compound
that had grit in it and was meant to allow a damaged Phillips head screw
to be removed easily without the driver slipping. ^_^

TDD

That sounds like... exactly the same stuff

Can't blame them though, as your typical FLAPS probably doesn't sell
valve grinding compound anymore as hand-lapping valves is pretty much an
obsolete procedure. I think I picked up a little tin at an automotive
swap meet ages ago and still have most of it.

nate

Al Borland writes:

On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help
remove it.

Good idea?

How will that help stripped threads?

I think it's about stripped heads.
I have no idea what part the rubber band plays.

This site makes a similar claim:

http://lifehacker.com/5462520/remove...-a-rubber-band

I'm not buying it.

--
Dan Espen

On 8/27/2013 6:39 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 4:58 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:12 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help
remove it.

Good idea?


Coarse valve grinding compound works better, if you have some handy.

nate

The supply houses were selling a squeeze tube of a grease like compound
that had grit in it and was meant to allow a damaged Phillips head screw
to be removed easily without the driver slipping. ^_^

TDD

That sounds like... exactly the same stuff

Can't blame them though, as your typical FLAPS probably doesn't sell
valve grinding compound anymore as hand-lapping valves is pretty much an
obsolete procedure. I think I picked up a little tin at an automotive
swap meet ages ago and still have most of it.

nate

I believe modern engines have hardened valve seat inserts in the heads
to resist wear since the lead additive, which would lubricate the valve
seats, has been taken out of gasoline. Of course you must have valve
seat inserts in aluminum heads but I think even iron heads need them
with today's unleaded fuels containing ethanol. I don't think good old
valve lapping compound with the rubber stoppered hand lapping tool would
work on the newfangled hardened valve seats. ^_^

TDD

Really, the best solution is for more Americans to ask for Robertson or Torx drive screws so that your hardware stores start carrying them. Here in Canada, hardware stores carry very few Phillips or slot drive screws because everyone buys Robertson.

So far as the stripped Phillips head screw goes, I'd try:

1. jamming a small slot screw driver into the drive and try turning it that way.

2. If you have good access to the head, another thing to try would be to grab onto the head with a pair of side cutters hard enough to leave an impression and try to twist the screw out that way.

3. And, if push comes to shove, drill the head off and twist out what's left with a pair of vice grips.

In my experience, trying to grind a slot in it with a Dremel usually doesn't work out. That's because often the slot isn't in the middle, and when you twist with the slot screw driver, you often end up breaking off the smaller part of the head.

On 8/27/2013 11:07 PM, nestork wrote:
Really, the best solution is for more Americans to ask for Robertson
or Torx drive screws so that your hardware stores start carrying
them.

I've been doing DIY work for well over 20 years now, and I don't
even keep any Phillips or slot screws in stock. Everything I have in
stock and use now is either Robertson or hex drive.

Once you guys start using Robertson screws, you'll never want to go
back to Phillips drive.

So far as the stripped Phillips head screw goes, I'd try jamming a
small slot screw driver into the drive diagonally and try turning it
that way. Drilling the head off and twisting out what's left with a
pair of vice grips would be my next move. I agree that trying to
grind a slot in it with a Dremel usually doesn't work. That's
because often the slot isn't in the middle, and when you twist with
the slot screw driver, you only end up breaking off the smaller part
of the head.

If you have good access to the head, another thing to try would be
to grab onto the head with a pair of side cutters and try to twist
the screw out that way.


All of the newer circuit breaker panels I've serviced or installed have
Robertson screws on the breakers, the neutral and the ground bars. The
large connections are the traditional Allen socket lugs. I've seen the
Robertson screws showing up more often plus the Torx, both standard and
tamper resistant, have been around for a while in vehicles and all sorts
of equipment I work on. ^_^

TDD

You really need to know Jesus, so you have a plan.


Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org


wrote in message
...
On Tue, 27 Aug 2013 14:59:36 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

I doubt the rubber is strong enough to do any good.

You might be able to slot the head with a dremel and
small cut off wheel. Use slotted screw driver.

Bad plan. If you have damage the thing, use an EZ-out. Replace.

On Wed, 28 Aug 2013 13:04:06 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

You really need to know Jesus, so you have a plan.

Ah, so it doesn't matter if it's a bad plan?

On 8/28/2013 8:50 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 28 Aug 2013 13:04:06 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

You really need to know Jesus, so you have a plan.

Ah, so it doesn't matter if it's a bad plan?

No Jesus, no peace.

Do you notice that you can put a lot more torque on a Roberston screw without getting that queezy feeling that the screw driver tip is about to slip out of the drive?

Robertson screw drivers almost never slip out of the drive on the screw.

I'm thinking there might be some science to support it.

The coefficient of rolling friction between iron wheels and steel railway track is very low, which is why trains get surprisingly good fuel economy once they're up to speed.

Now, when you're turning a stripped screw with a screw driver, it's really the friction between the driver tip and the screw head that's preventing the tip from slipping. That's STATIC friction, whereas trains are all about rolling friction, and I understand the two are completely different. But, I also know that friction is one of the least well understood phenomena in this world. So, lets presume that there is low friction at a steel on steel contact.

By putting the rubber between the screw driver tip and the screw, you now have a very much higher co-efficient of friction both between the screw driver tip and the rubber and between the rubber and the screw, and therefore very much more friction preventing the screw driver tip from slipping.

However, it seems to me that what a person would need here is THIN rubber given the small clearance between the driver tip and the screw drive, so I think a better tip would be to use a condom or a latex rubber glove, both of which are made of much thinner rubber than an elastic band.

Anyhow, that's the best I can do.

nestork wrote:
'Dan Espen[_2_ Wrote:
;3113262']
I have no idea what part the rubber band plays.

This site makes a similar claim:

'Remove a Stripped Screw with a Rubber Band'
(http://tinyurl.com/ye8qcum)

I'm not buying it.

Dan Espen

I'm thinking there might be some science to support it.

The coefficient of _rolling_ friction between iron wheels and steel
railway track is very low, which is why trains get surprisingly good
fuel economy once they're up to speed.

Now, when you're turning a stripped screw with a screw driver, it's
really the friction between the driver tip and the screw head that's
preventing the tip from slipping. That's STATIC friction, whereas
trains are all about rolling friction, and I understand the two are
completely different. But, I also know that friction is one of the
least well understood phenomena in this world. So, lets presume that
there is low friction at a steel on steel contact.

By putting the rubber between the screw driver tip and the screw, you
now have a very much higher co-efficient of friction both between the
screw driver tip and the rubber and between the rubber and the screw,
and therefore very much more friction preventing the screw driver tip
from slipping.

However, it seems to me that what a person would need here is THIN
rubber given the small clearance between the driver tip and the screw
drive, so I think a better tip would be to use a condom or a latex
rubber glove, both of which are made of much thinner rubber than an
elastic band.

Anyhow, that's the best I can do.

By the time you push on it hard, a rubber band will be thin.

On 8/28/2013 10:55 PM, nestork wrote:
'The Daring Dufas[_8_ Wrote:
;3113354']
All of the newer circuit breaker panels I've serviced or installed have
Robertson screws on the breakers, the neutral and the ground bars. The
large connections are the traditional Allen socket lugs. I've seen the
Robertson screws showing up more often plus the Torx, both standard and
tamper resistant, have been around for a while in vehicles and all
sorts
of equipment I work on.
TDD

Do you notice that you can put a lot more torque on a Roberston screw
without getting that queezy feeling that the screw driver tip is about
to slip out of the drive?

Robertson screw drivers almost never slip out of the drive on the screw.


I like them because I can tighten the lugs on breakers and the
connections in panels by feel a lot easier than Phillips head
screws because I don't have to push down hard on the driver. There is
one thing about Phillips head screws, folks rarely use the correct bit,
blaming their screw up on the screw. ^_^

TDD

On 8/28/2013 11:33 PM, nestork wrote:
'Dan Espen[_2_ Wrote:
;3113262']
I have no idea what part the rubber band plays.

This site makes a similar claim:

'Remove a Stripped Screw with a Rubber Band'
(http://tinyurl.com/ye8qcum)

I'm not buying it.

Dan Espen

I'm thinking there might be some science to support it.

The coefficient of _rolling_ friction between iron wheels and steel
railway track is very low, which is why trains get surprisingly good
fuel economy once they're up to speed.

Now, when you're turning a stripped screw with a screw driver, it's
really the friction between the driver tip and the screw head that's
preventing the tip from slipping. That's STATIC friction, whereas
trains are all about rolling friction, and I understand the two are
completely different. But, I also know that friction is one of the
least well understood phenomena in this world. So, lets presume that
there is low friction at a steel on steel contact.

By putting the rubber between the screw driver tip and the screw, you
now have a very much higher co-efficient of friction both between the
screw driver tip and the rubber and between the rubber and the screw,
and therefore very much more friction preventing the screw driver tip
from slipping.

However, it seems to me that what a person would need here is THIN
rubber given the small clearance between the driver tip and the screw
drive, so I think a better tip would be to use a condom or a latex
rubber glove, both of which are made of much thinner rubber than an
elastic band.

Anyhow, that's the best I can do.


I have put a small piece of sandpaper in the screw head before to get a
better grip but sometimes the paper is too thick to get in there. ^_^

TDD

On Thu, 29 Aug 2013 05:55:46 +0200, nestork
wrote:


Do you notice that you can put a lot more torque on a Roberston screw
without getting that queezy feeling that the screw driver tip is about
to slip out of the drive?

Robertson screw drivers almost never slip out of the drive on the screw.

Square drive is all I use for wood, unless it's something that comes
with it's own screws.
People argue about drive types. But they all work for me.
And bits are dirt cheap, so you can have them all.

On Thu, 29 Aug 2013 01:25:31 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:



I like them because I can tighten the lugs on breakers and the
connections in panels by feel a lot easier than Phillips head
screws because I don't have to push down hard on the driver. There is
one thing about Phillips head screws, folks rarely use the correct bit,
blaming their screw up on the screw. ^_^


Yup. With the right bit on a new screw you can hold it almost
sideways and it won't fall off the bit. Too big, too small, forget
it.

The new LOX screw drive:

http://www.instructables.com/files/d...PHFK.LARGE.jpg

Or, Robertson rethunk.

On 8/29/2013 2:51 AM, nestork wrote:

The new LOX screw drive:

http://tinyurl.com/oaq3kot

Or, Robertson rethunk.


It only works in bagel materials or as an oxidizer when used with rocket
fuel. ^_^

TDD

Would the OP please chime in? Is the rubber
band trick in case the screw threads are stripped,
or in case the phillips head is rounded out?

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

It's for the Phillips head of the screw being all mucked up so you can't turn the screw cuz the screwdriver tip is slipping.

The rubber band wouldn't do anything if the threads were stripped.

"Bob F" writes:

nestork wrote:
'Dan Espen[_2_ Wrote:
;3113262']
I have no idea what part the rubber band plays.

This site makes a similar claim:

'Remove a Stripped Screw with a Rubber Band'
(http://tinyurl.com/ye8qcum)

I'm not buying it.

Dan Espen

I'm thinking there might be some science to support it.

The coefficient of _rolling_ friction between iron wheels and steel
railway track is very low, which is why trains get surprisingly good
fuel economy once they're up to speed.

Now, when you're turning a stripped screw with a screw driver, it's
really the friction between the driver tip and the screw head that's
preventing the tip from slipping. That's STATIC friction, whereas
trains are all about rolling friction, and I understand the two are
completely different. But, I also know that friction is one of the
least well understood phenomena in this world. So, lets presume that
there is low friction at a steel on steel contact.

By putting the rubber between the screw driver tip and the screw, you
now have a very much higher co-efficient of friction both between the
screw driver tip and the rubber and between the rubber and the screw,
and therefore very much more friction preventing the screw driver tip
from slipping.

However, it seems to me that what a person would need here is THIN
rubber given the small clearance between the driver tip and the screw
drive, so I think a better tip would be to use a condom or a latex
rubber glove, both of which are made of much thinner rubber than an
elastic band.

Anyhow, that's the best I can do.

By the time you push on it hard, a rubber band will be thin.

If you don't push hard, you don't reach the metal walls of the
depression. If you do push hard, the rubber still collects in the
bottom of the depression. Still blocking entry. Or the rubber comes
apart ending up doing nothing.

--
Dan Espen

nestork wrote:
'Stormin Mormon[_10_ Wrote:
;3113916'] Is the rubber
band trick in case the screw threads are stripped,
or in case the phillips head is rounded out?


It's for the Phillips head of the screw being all mucked up so you
can't turn the screw cuz the screwdriver tip is slipping.

The rubber band wouldn't do anything if the threads were stripped.

Actually, if it does work, it would do the same thing it suposedly does when the
head is dorked - increase the friction at the metal-metal surfaces.

On Thu, 29 Aug 2013 07:59:15 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

Would the OP please chime in? Is the rubber
band trick in case the screw threads are stripped,
or in case the phillips head is rounded out?

The screw head was rounded. The tip was in an ad before a Youtube
video. Since I watch lots of Youtube videos I doubt I could find the
ad again

Youtube is getting pretty good at picking videos I am interested in
watching. One catch is that it frequently picks videos I have already
seen.

I still refuse to watch a 15 second ad to see the video. I do watch
the ads you can skip in 5 seconds.

If they want me to ever watch 15 second ads they are going to have to
use naked girls in the ads.

On Thu, 29 Aug 2013 06:24:55 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 8/29/2013 2:51 AM, nestork wrote:

The new LOX screw drive:

http://tinyurl.com/oaq3kot

Or, Robertson rethunk.


It only works in bagel materials or as an oxidizer when used with rocket
fuel. ^_^

LOX makes bagels too crunchy.

On Thu, 29 Aug 2013 01:40:23 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Thu, 29 Aug 2013 05:55:46 +0200, nestork
wrote:


Do you notice that you can put a lot more torque on a Roberston screw
without getting that queezy feeling that the screw driver tip is about
to slip out of the drive?

Robertson screw drivers almost never slip out of the drive on the screw.

Square drive is all I use for wood, unless it's something that comes
with it's own screws.
People argue about drive types. But they all work for me.
And bits are dirt cheap, so you can have them all.

If I'm buying the screws I prefer Torx but I agree that I'll use
whatever. Philips does have the advantage of camming out rather than
breaking. Drywall screws, of course, are Philips.

On Wed, 28 Aug 2013 23:04:38 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:


On 8/28/2013 8:50 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 28 Aug 2013 13:04:06 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

You really need to know Jesus, so you have a plan.

Ah, so it doesn't matter if it's a bad plan?

No Jesus, no peace.
Not buying that, either, but my comment has nothing to do with Jesus.

On 8/29/2013 4:24 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 29 Aug 2013 06:24:55 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 8/29/2013 2:51 AM, nestork wrote:

The new LOX screw drive:

http://tinyurl.com/oaq3kot

Or, Robertson rethunk.


It only works in bagel materials or as an oxidizer when used with rocket
fuel. ^_^

LOX makes bagels too crunchy.


Hum, there's something fishy about that. O_o

TDD

On 8/27/2013 9:13 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/27/2013 6:39 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 4:58 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:12 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help
remove it.

Good idea?


Coarse valve grinding compound works better, if you have some handy.

nate

The supply houses were selling a squeeze tube of a grease like compound
that had grit in it and was meant to allow a damaged Phillips head screw
to be removed easily without the driver slipping. ^_^

TDD

That sounds like... exactly the same stuff

Can't blame them though, as your typical FLAPS probably doesn't sell
valve grinding compound anymore as hand-lapping valves is pretty much an
obsolete procedure. I think I picked up a little tin at an automotive
swap meet ages ago and still have most of it.

nate

I believe modern engines have hardened valve seat inserts in the heads
to resist wear since the lead additive, which would lubricate the valve
seats, has been taken out of gasoline. Of course you must have valve
seat inserts in aluminum heads but I think even iron heads need them
with today's unleaded fuels containing ethanol. I don't think good old
valve lapping compound with the rubber stoppered hand lapping tool would
work on the newfangled hardened valve seats. ^_^

TDD


Some of us still have oooooold cars!

You could chuck up your suction cup on a stick into an old eggbeater
hand drill, or even a small cordless, if you wanted to make the job go
faster

nate

On 08/29/2013 03:03 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/29/2013 4:24 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 29 Aug 2013 06:24:55 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 8/29/2013 2:51 AM, nestork wrote:

The new LOX screw drive:

http://tinyurl.com/oaq3kot

Or, Robertson rethunk.


It only works in bagel materials or as an oxidizer when used with rocket
fuel. ^_^

LOX makes bagels too crunchy.


Hum, there's something fishy about that. O_o

This thread is sure spawning some interesting replies....

Jon

On 8/29/2013 6:34 PM, Jon Danniken wrote:
On 08/29/2013 03:03 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/29/2013 4:24 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 29 Aug 2013 06:24:55 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 8/29/2013 2:51 AM, nestork wrote:

The new LOX screw drive:

http://tinyurl.com/oaq3kot

Or, Robertson rethunk.


It only works in bagel materials or as an oxidizer when used with rocket
fuel. ^_^

LOX makes bagels too crunchy.


Hum, there's something fishy about that. O_o

This thread is sure spawning some interesting replies....

Jon


It is showing some fertile thinking. Of course someone may chum in and
ruin it all by laying an egg. ^_^

TDD

On 8/29/2013 6:30 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 9:13 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/27/2013 6:39 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 4:58 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:12 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to
help
remove it.

Good idea?


Coarse valve grinding compound works better, if you have some handy.

nate

The supply houses were selling a squeeze tube of a grease like compound
that had grit in it and was meant to allow a damaged Phillips head
screw
to be removed easily without the driver slipping. ^_^

TDD

That sounds like... exactly the same stuff

Can't blame them though, as your typical FLAPS probably doesn't sell
valve grinding compound anymore as hand-lapping valves is pretty much an
obsolete procedure. I think I picked up a little tin at an automotive
swap meet ages ago and still have most of it.

nate

I believe modern engines have hardened valve seat inserts in the heads
to resist wear since the lead additive, which would lubricate the valve
seats, has been taken out of gasoline. Of course you must have valve
seat inserts in aluminum heads but I think even iron heads need them
with today's unleaded fuels containing ethanol. I don't think good old
valve lapping compound with the rubber stoppered hand lapping tool would
work on the newfangled hardened valve seats. ^_^

TDD


Some of us still have oooooold cars!

You could chuck up your suction cup on a stick into an old eggbeater
hand drill, or even a small cordless, if you wanted to make the job go
faster

nate

I wish I had my 64 Valiant and 65 Dart with the Slant Six and automatic
transmission. I even had a full sized 63 Dodge with a 225 Slant Six and
the darn big old hunk of steel would get up and go. I also had a 64
Dodge cab over engine pickup, the pickup made on the van chassis with
the cab forward and engine between the front seats like the van. It had
a Slant Six and was a neat little truck. The vehicles were simple and
easy to work on plus they rarely quit on you leaving you stranded. All
you had to do was keep them serviced and the critters would run forever.
I miss those old crates. ^_^

TDD

Farther north of you, the DOT salts the roads a
bit much in the winter. We still have drivers
who don't know how to handle road conditions.
Even with all the salt and sand, people still
go off the road, wreck up, and so on. So, the
vehicles from the earlier years all disappear in
a pile of rust and decay. A lot of folks have
historic cars, but only drive them in good
weather with no road salt.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 8/30/2013 8:14 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:

I wish I had my 64 Valiant and 65 Dart with the Slant Six and automatic
transmission. I even had a full sized 63 Dodge with a 225 Slant Six and
the darn big old hunk of steel would get up and go. I also had a 64
Dodge cab over engine pickup, the pickup made on the van chassis with
the cab forward and engine between the front seats like the van. It had
a Slant Six and was a neat little truck. The vehicles were simple and
easy to work on plus they rarely quit on you leaving you stranded. All
you had to do was keep them serviced and the critters would run forever.
I miss those old crates. ^_^

TDD

On Thursday, August 29, 2013 5:33:45 PM UTC-4, wrote:
If I'm buying the screws I prefer Torx but I agree that I'll use

whatever. Philips does have the advantage of camming out rather than

breaking. Drywall screws, of course, are Philips.

Yes. Phillips screws are intended to cam out to prevent putting on too much torque. If you need more torque, like on an electrical connection, Phillips is the wrong choice.

On 8/30/2013 8:14 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/29/2013 6:30 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 9:13 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/27/2013 6:39 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 4:58 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:12 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to
help
remove it.

Good idea?


Coarse valve grinding compound works better, if you have some handy.

nate

The supply houses were selling a squeeze tube of a grease like
compound
that had grit in it and was meant to allow a damaged Phillips head
screw
to be removed easily without the driver slipping. ^_^

TDD

That sounds like... exactly the same stuff

Can't blame them though, as your typical FLAPS probably doesn't sell
valve grinding compound anymore as hand-lapping valves is pretty
much an
obsolete procedure. I think I picked up a little tin at an automotive
swap meet ages ago and still have most of it.

nate

I believe modern engines have hardened valve seat inserts in the heads
to resist wear since the lead additive, which would lubricate the valve
seats, has been taken out of gasoline. Of course you must have valve
seat inserts in aluminum heads but I think even iron heads need them
with today's unleaded fuels containing ethanol. I don't think good old
valve lapping compound with the rubber stoppered hand lapping tool would
work on the newfangled hardened valve seats. ^_^

TDD


Some of us still have oooooold cars!

You could chuck up your suction cup on a stick into an old eggbeater
hand drill, or even a small cordless, if you wanted to make the job go
faster

nate

I wish I had my 64 Valiant and 65 Dart with the Slant Six and automatic
transmission. I even had a full sized 63 Dodge with a 225 Slant Six and
the darn big old hunk of steel would get up and go. I also had a 64
Dodge cab over engine pickup, the pickup made on the van chassis with
the cab forward and engine between the front seats like the van. It had
a Slant Six and was a neat little truck. The vehicles were simple and
easy to work on plus they rarely quit on you leaving you stranded. All
you had to do was keep them serviced and the critters would run forever.
I miss those old crates. ^_^

TDD


Ayup... female type I dated for a while had a '69 Valiant (in the late
90's - early 2000's) and literally all the work that was done to it over
a period of about 5 years was that I rebuilt the front suspension
(bushings were dry rotted so an inspector failed it for that and tie rod
ends) she put new tires on it and once when it sat for a couple weeks I
had to replace the carb because dipping the original carb in cleaner to
clean it out revealed that the jet block was disintegrating. She never
set the valve lash and had a heavy foot so somewhere in there it got a
head rebuild. Oh, and the usual ballast resistor replacement. Other
than that it basically took gas and oil and just ran, we drove the snot
out of it. It was registered as a regular old car and passed safety
every year. Wish I knew where that car was today; I'd have bought it
off her when she was done with it, but apparently she got offers on it
all the time and just took one, and I apparently wasn't near the top of
her "favorites" list at the time.

nate