I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help
remove it.

Good idea?

On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help
remove it.

Good idea?


Coarse valve grinding compound works better, if you have some handy.

nate

On 8/27/2013 1:12 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help
remove it.

Good idea?


Coarse valve grinding compound works better, if you have some handy.

nate

The supply houses were selling a squeeze tube of a grease like compound
that had grit in it and was meant to allow a damaged Phillips head screw
to be removed easily without the driver slipping. ^_^

TDD

On 8/27/2013 4:58 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:12 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help
remove it.

Good idea?


Coarse valve grinding compound works better, if you have some handy.

nate

The supply houses were selling a squeeze tube of a grease like compound
that had grit in it and was meant to allow a damaged Phillips head screw
to be removed easily without the driver slipping. ^_^

TDD

That sounds like... exactly the same stuff

Can't blame them though, as your typical FLAPS probably doesn't sell
valve grinding compound anymore as hand-lapping valves is pretty much an
obsolete procedure. I think I picked up a little tin at an automotive
swap meet ages ago and still have most of it.

nate

On 8/27/2013 6:39 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 4:58 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:12 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help
remove it.

Good idea?


Coarse valve grinding compound works better, if you have some handy.

nate

The supply houses were selling a squeeze tube of a grease like compound
that had grit in it and was meant to allow a damaged Phillips head screw
to be removed easily without the driver slipping. ^_^

TDD

That sounds like... exactly the same stuff

Can't blame them though, as your typical FLAPS probably doesn't sell
valve grinding compound anymore as hand-lapping valves is pretty much an
obsolete procedure. I think I picked up a little tin at an automotive
swap meet ages ago and still have most of it.

nate

I believe modern engines have hardened valve seat inserts in the heads
to resist wear since the lead additive, which would lubricate the valve
seats, has been taken out of gasoline. Of course you must have valve
seat inserts in aluminum heads but I think even iron heads need them
with today's unleaded fuels containing ethanol. I don't think good old
valve lapping compound with the rubber stoppered hand lapping tool would
work on the newfangled hardened valve seats. ^_^

TDD

Really, the best solution is for more Americans to ask for Robertson or Torx drive screws so that your hardware stores start carrying them. Here in Canada, hardware stores carry very few Phillips or slot drive screws because everyone buys Robertson.

So far as the stripped Phillips head screw goes, I'd try:

1. jamming a small slot screw driver into the drive and try turning it that way.

2. If you have good access to the head, another thing to try would be to grab onto the head with a pair of side cutters hard enough to leave an impression and try to twist the screw out that way.

3. And, if push comes to shove, drill the head off and twist out what's left with a pair of vice grips.

In my experience, trying to grind a slot in it with a Dremel usually doesn't work out. That's because often the slot isn't in the middle, and when you twist with the slot screw driver, you often end up breaking off the smaller part of the head.

On 8/27/2013 9:13 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/27/2013 6:39 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 4:58 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:12 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help
remove it.

Good idea?


Coarse valve grinding compound works better, if you have some handy.

nate

The supply houses were selling a squeeze tube of a grease like compound
that had grit in it and was meant to allow a damaged Phillips head screw
to be removed easily without the driver slipping. ^_^

TDD

That sounds like... exactly the same stuff

Can't blame them though, as your typical FLAPS probably doesn't sell
valve grinding compound anymore as hand-lapping valves is pretty much an
obsolete procedure. I think I picked up a little tin at an automotive
swap meet ages ago and still have most of it.

nate

I believe modern engines have hardened valve seat inserts in the heads
to resist wear since the lead additive, which would lubricate the valve
seats, has been taken out of gasoline. Of course you must have valve
seat inserts in aluminum heads but I think even iron heads need them
with today's unleaded fuels containing ethanol. I don't think good old
valve lapping compound with the rubber stoppered hand lapping tool would
work on the newfangled hardened valve seats. ^_^

TDD


Some of us still have oooooold cars!

You could chuck up your suction cup on a stick into an old eggbeater
hand drill, or even a small cordless, if you wanted to make the job go
faster

nate

I doubt the rubber is strong enough to do any good.

You might be able to slot the head with a dremel and
small cut off wheel. Use slotted screw driver.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help
remove it.

Good idea?

On Tue, 27 Aug 2013 14:59:36 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

I doubt the rubber is strong enough to do any good.

You might be able to slot the head with a dremel and
small cut off wheel. Use slotted screw driver.

Bad plan. If you have damage the thing, use an EZ-out. Replace.

You really need to know Jesus, so you have a plan.


Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org


wrote in message
...
On Tue, 27 Aug 2013 14:59:36 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

I doubt the rubber is strong enough to do any good.

You might be able to slot the head with a dremel and
small cut off wheel. Use slotted screw driver.

Bad plan. If you have damage the thing, use an EZ-out. Replace.

On Wed, 28 Aug 2013 13:04:06 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

You really need to know Jesus, so you have a plan.

Ah, so it doesn't matter if it's a bad plan?

On 8/28/2013 8:50 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 28 Aug 2013 13:04:06 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

You really need to know Jesus, so you have a plan.

Ah, so it doesn't matter if it's a bad plan?

No Jesus, no peace.

On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help
remove it.

Good idea?


How will that help stripped threads?

Very little. Might help stripped screw slot.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 8/27/2013 5:38 PM, Al Borland wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help
remove it.

Good idea?


How will that help stripped threads?

Al Borland writes:

On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help
remove it.

Good idea?

How will that help stripped threads?

I think it's about stripped heads.
I have no idea what part the rubber band plays.

This site makes a similar claim:

http://lifehacker.com/5462520/remove...-a-rubber-band

I'm not buying it.

--
Dan Espen

I'm thinking there might be some science to support it.

The coefficient of rolling friction between iron wheels and steel railway track is very low, which is why trains get surprisingly good fuel economy once they're up to speed.

Now, when you're turning a stripped screw with a screw driver, it's really the friction between the driver tip and the screw head that's preventing the tip from slipping. That's STATIC friction, whereas trains are all about rolling friction, and I understand the two are completely different. But, I also know that friction is one of the least well understood phenomena in this world. So, lets presume that there is low friction at a steel on steel contact.

By putting the rubber between the screw driver tip and the screw, you now have a very much higher co-efficient of friction both between the screw driver tip and the rubber and between the rubber and the screw, and therefore very much more friction preventing the screw driver tip from slipping.

However, it seems to me that what a person would need here is THIN rubber given the small clearance between the driver tip and the screw drive, so I think a better tip would be to use a condom or a latex rubber glove, both of which are made of much thinner rubber than an elastic band.

Anyhow, that's the best I can do.

nestork wrote:
'Dan Espen[_2_ Wrote:
;3113262']
I have no idea what part the rubber band plays.

This site makes a similar claim:

'Remove a Stripped Screw with a Rubber Band'
(http://tinyurl.com/ye8qcum)

I'm not buying it.

Dan Espen

I'm thinking there might be some science to support it.

The coefficient of _rolling_ friction between iron wheels and steel
railway track is very low, which is why trains get surprisingly good
fuel economy once they're up to speed.

Now, when you're turning a stripped screw with a screw driver, it's
really the friction between the driver tip and the screw head that's
preventing the tip from slipping. That's STATIC friction, whereas
trains are all about rolling friction, and I understand the two are
completely different. But, I also know that friction is one of the
least well understood phenomena in this world. So, lets presume that
there is low friction at a steel on steel contact.

By putting the rubber between the screw driver tip and the screw, you
now have a very much higher co-efficient of friction both between the
screw driver tip and the rubber and between the rubber and the screw,
and therefore very much more friction preventing the screw driver tip
from slipping.

However, it seems to me that what a person would need here is THIN
rubber given the small clearance between the driver tip and the screw
drive, so I think a better tip would be to use a condom or a latex
rubber glove, both of which are made of much thinner rubber than an
elastic band.

Anyhow, that's the best I can do.

By the time you push on it hard, a rubber band will be thin.

Would the OP please chime in? Is the rubber
band trick in case the screw threads are stripped,
or in case the phillips head is rounded out?

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Bob F" writes:

nestork wrote:
'Dan Espen[_2_ Wrote:
;3113262']
I have no idea what part the rubber band plays.

This site makes a similar claim:

'Remove a Stripped Screw with a Rubber Band'
(http://tinyurl.com/ye8qcum)

I'm not buying it.

Dan Espen

I'm thinking there might be some science to support it.

The coefficient of _rolling_ friction between iron wheels and steel
railway track is very low, which is why trains get surprisingly good
fuel economy once they're up to speed.

Now, when you're turning a stripped screw with a screw driver, it's
really the friction between the driver tip and the screw head that's
preventing the tip from slipping. That's STATIC friction, whereas
trains are all about rolling friction, and I understand the two are
completely different. But, I also know that friction is one of the
least well understood phenomena in this world. So, lets presume that
there is low friction at a steel on steel contact.

By putting the rubber between the screw driver tip and the screw, you
now have a very much higher co-efficient of friction both between the
screw driver tip and the rubber and between the rubber and the screw,
and therefore very much more friction preventing the screw driver tip
from slipping.

However, it seems to me that what a person would need here is THIN
rubber given the small clearance between the driver tip and the screw
drive, so I think a better tip would be to use a condom or a latex
rubber glove, both of which are made of much thinner rubber than an
elastic band.

Anyhow, that's the best I can do.

By the time you push on it hard, a rubber band will be thin.

If you don't push hard, you don't reach the metal walls of the
depression. If you do push hard, the rubber still collects in the
bottom of the depression. Still blocking entry. Or the rubber comes
apart ending up doing nothing.

--
Dan Espen

On 8/28/2013 11:33 PM, nestork wrote:
'Dan Espen[_2_ Wrote:
;3113262']
I have no idea what part the rubber band plays.

This site makes a similar claim:

'Remove a Stripped Screw with a Rubber Band'
(http://tinyurl.com/ye8qcum)

I'm not buying it.

Dan Espen

I'm thinking there might be some science to support it.

The coefficient of _rolling_ friction between iron wheels and steel
railway track is very low, which is why trains get surprisingly good
fuel economy once they're up to speed.

Now, when you're turning a stripped screw with a screw driver, it's
really the friction between the driver tip and the screw head that's
preventing the tip from slipping. That's STATIC friction, whereas
trains are all about rolling friction, and I understand the two are
completely different. But, I also know that friction is one of the
least well understood phenomena in this world. So, lets presume that
there is low friction at a steel on steel contact.

By putting the rubber between the screw driver tip and the screw, you
now have a very much higher co-efficient of friction both between the
screw driver tip and the rubber and between the rubber and the screw,
and therefore very much more friction preventing the screw driver tip
from slipping.

However, it seems to me that what a person would need here is THIN
rubber given the small clearance between the driver tip and the screw
drive, so I think a better tip would be to use a condom or a latex
rubber glove, both of which are made of much thinner rubber than an
elastic band.

Anyhow, that's the best I can do.


I have put a small piece of sandpaper in the screw head before to get a
better grip but sometimes the paper is too thick to get in there. ^_^

TDD