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I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips
screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help remove it. Good idea? |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help remove it. Good idea? Coarse valve grinding compound works better, if you have some handy. nate |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
I doubt the rubber is strong enough to do any good.
You might be able to slot the head with a dremel and small cut off wheel. Use slotted screw driver. .. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .. On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote: I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help remove it. Good idea? |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On 8/27/2013 1:12 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote: I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help remove it. Good idea? Coarse valve grinding compound works better, if you have some handy. nate The supply houses were selling a squeeze tube of a grease like compound that had grit in it and was meant to allow a damaged Phillips head screw to be removed easily without the driver slipping. ^_^ TDD |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help remove it. Good idea? How will that help stripped threads? |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
Very little. Might help stripped screw slot.
.. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .. On 8/27/2013 5:38 PM, Al Borland wrote: On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote: I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help remove it. Good idea? How will that help stripped threads? |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On Tue, 27 Aug 2013 14:59:36 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: I doubt the rubber is strong enough to do any good. You might be able to slot the head with a dremel and small cut off wheel. Use slotted screw driver. Bad plan. If you have damage the thing, use an EZ-out. Replace. |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On 8/27/2013 4:58 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/27/2013 1:12 PM, Nate Nagel wrote: On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote: I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help remove it. Good idea? Coarse valve grinding compound works better, if you have some handy. nate The supply houses were selling a squeeze tube of a grease like compound that had grit in it and was meant to allow a damaged Phillips head screw to be removed easily without the driver slipping. ^_^ TDD That sounds like... exactly the same stuff :) Can't blame them though, as your typical FLAPS probably doesn't sell valve grinding compound anymore as hand-lapping valves is pretty much an obsolete procedure. I think I picked up a little tin at an automotive swap meet ages ago and still have most of it. nate |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
Al Borland writes:
On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote: I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help remove it. Good idea? How will that help stripped threads? I think it's about stripped heads. I have no idea what part the rubber band plays. This site makes a similar claim: http://lifehacker.com/5462520/remove...-a-rubber-band I'm not buying it. -- Dan Espen |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On 8/27/2013 6:39 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 4:58 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote: On 8/27/2013 1:12 PM, Nate Nagel wrote: On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote: I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help remove it. Good idea? Coarse valve grinding compound works better, if you have some handy. nate The supply houses were selling a squeeze tube of a grease like compound that had grit in it and was meant to allow a damaged Phillips head screw to be removed easily without the driver slipping. ^_^ TDD That sounds like... exactly the same stuff :) Can't blame them though, as your typical FLAPS probably doesn't sell valve grinding compound anymore as hand-lapping valves is pretty much an obsolete procedure. I think I picked up a little tin at an automotive swap meet ages ago and still have most of it. nate I believe modern engines have hardened valve seat inserts in the heads to resist wear since the lead additive, which would lubricate the valve seats, has been taken out of gasoline. Of course you must have valve seat inserts in aluminum heads but I think even iron heads need them with today's unleaded fuels containing ethanol. I don't think good old valve lapping compound with the rubber stoppered hand lapping tool would work on the newfangled hardened valve seats. ^_^ TDD |
Really, the best solution is for more Americans to ask for Robertson or Torx drive screws so that your hardware stores start carrying them. Here in Canada, hardware stores carry very few Phillips or slot drive screws because everyone buys Robertson.
So far as the stripped Phillips head screw goes, I'd try: 1. jamming a small slot screw driver into the drive and try turning it that way. 2. If you have good access to the head, another thing to try would be to grab onto the head with a pair of side cutters hard enough to leave an impression and try to twist the screw out that way. 3. And, if push comes to shove, drill the head off and twist out what's left with a pair of vice grips. In my experience, trying to grind a slot in it with a Dremel usually doesn't work out. That's because often the slot isn't in the middle, and when you twist with the slot screw driver, you often end up breaking off the smaller part of the head. |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On 8/27/2013 11:07 PM, nestork wrote:
Really, the best solution is for more Americans to ask for Robertson or Torx drive screws so that your hardware stores start carrying them. I've been doing DIY work for well over 20 years now, and I don't even keep any Phillips or slot screws in stock. Everything I have in stock and use now is either Robertson or hex drive. Once you guys start using Robertson screws, you'll never want to go back to Phillips drive. So far as the stripped Phillips head screw goes, I'd try jamming a small slot screw driver into the drive diagonally and try turning it that way. Drilling the head off and twisting out what's left with a pair of vice grips would be my next move. I agree that trying to grind a slot in it with a Dremel usually doesn't work. That's because often the slot isn't in the middle, and when you twist with the slot screw driver, you only end up breaking off the smaller part of the head. If you have good access to the head, another thing to try would be to grab onto the head with a pair of side cutters and try to twist the screw out that way. All of the newer circuit breaker panels I've serviced or installed have Robertson screws on the breakers, the neutral and the ground bars. The large connections are the traditional Allen socket lugs. I've seen the Robertson screws showing up more often plus the Torx, both standard and tamper resistant, have been around for a while in vehicles and all sorts of equipment I work on. ^_^ TDD |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
You really need to know Jesus, so you have a plan.
Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org wrote in message ... On Tue, 27 Aug 2013 14:59:36 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote: I doubt the rubber is strong enough to do any good. You might be able to slot the head with a dremel and small cut off wheel. Use slotted screw driver. Bad plan. If you have damage the thing, use an EZ-out. Replace. |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On Wed, 28 Aug 2013 13:04:06 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote: You really need to know Jesus, so you have a plan. Ah, so it doesn't matter if it's a bad plan? |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
|
Quote:
Robertson screw drivers almost never slip out of the drive on the screw. |
Quote:
The coefficient of rolling friction between iron wheels and steel railway track is very low, which is why trains get surprisingly good fuel economy once they're up to speed. Now, when you're turning a stripped screw with a screw driver, it's really the friction between the driver tip and the screw head that's preventing the tip from slipping. That's STATIC friction, whereas trains are all about rolling friction, and I understand the two are completely different. But, I also know that friction is one of the least well understood phenomena in this world. So, lets presume that there is low friction at a steel on steel contact. By putting the rubber between the screw driver tip and the screw, you now have a very much higher co-efficient of friction both between the screw driver tip and the rubber and between the rubber and the screw, and therefore very much more friction preventing the screw driver tip from slipping. However, it seems to me that what a person would need here is THIN rubber given the small clearance between the driver tip and the screw drive, so I think a better tip would be to use a condom or a latex rubber glove, both of which are made of much thinner rubber than an elastic band. Anyhow, that's the best I can do. |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
nestork wrote:
'Dan Espen[_2_ Wrote: ;3113262'] I have no idea what part the rubber band plays. This site makes a similar claim: 'Remove a Stripped Screw with a Rubber Band' (http://tinyurl.com/ye8qcum) I'm not buying it. Dan Espen I'm thinking there might be some science to support it. The coefficient of _rolling_ friction between iron wheels and steel railway track is very low, which is why trains get surprisingly good fuel economy once they're up to speed. Now, when you're turning a stripped screw with a screw driver, it's really the friction between the driver tip and the screw head that's preventing the tip from slipping. That's STATIC friction, whereas trains are all about rolling friction, and I understand the two are completely different. But, I also know that friction is one of the least well understood phenomena in this world. So, lets presume that there is low friction at a steel on steel contact. By putting the rubber between the screw driver tip and the screw, you now have a very much higher co-efficient of friction both between the screw driver tip and the rubber and between the rubber and the screw, and therefore very much more friction preventing the screw driver tip from slipping. However, it seems to me that what a person would need here is THIN rubber given the small clearance between the driver tip and the screw drive, so I think a better tip would be to use a condom or a latex rubber glove, both of which are made of much thinner rubber than an elastic band. Anyhow, that's the best I can do. By the time you push on it hard, a rubber band will be thin. |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On 8/28/2013 10:55 PM, nestork wrote:
'The Daring Dufas[_8_ Wrote: ;3113354'] All of the newer circuit breaker panels I've serviced or installed have Robertson screws on the breakers, the neutral and the ground bars. The large connections are the traditional Allen socket lugs. I've seen the Robertson screws showing up more often plus the Torx, both standard and tamper resistant, have been around for a while in vehicles and all sorts of equipment I work on. TDD Do you notice that you can put a lot more torque on a Roberston screw without getting that queezy feeling that the screw driver tip is about to slip out of the drive? Robertson screw drivers almost never slip out of the drive on the screw. I like them because I can tighten the lugs on breakers and the connections in panels by feel a lot easier than Phillips head screws because I don't have to push down hard on the driver. There is one thing about Phillips head screws, folks rarely use the correct bit, blaming their screw up on the screw. ^_^ TDD |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On 8/28/2013 11:33 PM, nestork wrote:
'Dan Espen[_2_ Wrote: ;3113262'] I have no idea what part the rubber band plays. This site makes a similar claim: 'Remove a Stripped Screw with a Rubber Band' (http://tinyurl.com/ye8qcum) I'm not buying it. Dan Espen I'm thinking there might be some science to support it. The coefficient of _rolling_ friction between iron wheels and steel railway track is very low, which is why trains get surprisingly good fuel economy once they're up to speed. Now, when you're turning a stripped screw with a screw driver, it's really the friction between the driver tip and the screw head that's preventing the tip from slipping. That's STATIC friction, whereas trains are all about rolling friction, and I understand the two are completely different. But, I also know that friction is one of the least well understood phenomena in this world. So, lets presume that there is low friction at a steel on steel contact. By putting the rubber between the screw driver tip and the screw, you now have a very much higher co-efficient of friction both between the screw driver tip and the rubber and between the rubber and the screw, and therefore very much more friction preventing the screw driver tip from slipping. However, it seems to me that what a person would need here is THIN rubber given the small clearance between the driver tip and the screw drive, so I think a better tip would be to use a condom or a latex rubber glove, both of which are made of much thinner rubber than an elastic band. Anyhow, that's the best I can do. I have put a small piece of sandpaper in the screw head before to get a better grip but sometimes the paper is too thick to get in there. ^_^ TDD |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On Thu, 29 Aug 2013 05:55:46 +0200, nestork
wrote: Do you notice that you can put a lot more torque on a Roberston screw without getting that queezy feeling that the screw driver tip is about to slip out of the drive? Robertson screw drivers almost never slip out of the drive on the screw. Square drive is all I use for wood, unless it's something that comes with it's own screws. People argue about drive types. But they all work for me. And bits are dirt cheap, so you can have them all. |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On Thu, 29 Aug 2013 01:25:31 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote: I like them because I can tighten the lugs on breakers and the connections in panels by feel a lot easier than Phillips head screws because I don't have to push down hard on the driver. There is one thing about Phillips head screws, folks rarely use the correct bit, blaming their screw up on the screw. ^_^ Yup. With the right bit on a new screw you can hold it almost sideways and it won't fall off the bit. Too big, too small, forget it. |
The new LOX screw drive:
http://www.instructables.com/files/d...PHFK.LARGE.jpg Or, Robertson rethunk. |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On 8/29/2013 2:51 AM, nestork wrote:
The new LOX screw drive: http://tinyurl.com/oaq3kot Or, Robertson rethunk. It only works in bagel materials or as an oxidizer when used with rocket fuel. ^_^ TDD |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
Would the OP please chime in? Is the rubber
band trick in case the screw threads are stripped, or in case the phillips head is rounded out? .. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .. |
Quote:
The rubber band wouldn't do anything if the threads were stripped. |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
"Bob F" writes:
nestork wrote: 'Dan Espen[_2_ Wrote: ;3113262'] I have no idea what part the rubber band plays. This site makes a similar claim: 'Remove a Stripped Screw with a Rubber Band' (http://tinyurl.com/ye8qcum) I'm not buying it. Dan Espen I'm thinking there might be some science to support it. The coefficient of _rolling_ friction between iron wheels and steel railway track is very low, which is why trains get surprisingly good fuel economy once they're up to speed. Now, when you're turning a stripped screw with a screw driver, it's really the friction between the driver tip and the screw head that's preventing the tip from slipping. That's STATIC friction, whereas trains are all about rolling friction, and I understand the two are completely different. But, I also know that friction is one of the least well understood phenomena in this world. So, lets presume that there is low friction at a steel on steel contact. By putting the rubber between the screw driver tip and the screw, you now have a very much higher co-efficient of friction both between the screw driver tip and the rubber and between the rubber and the screw, and therefore very much more friction preventing the screw driver tip from slipping. However, it seems to me that what a person would need here is THIN rubber given the small clearance between the driver tip and the screw drive, so I think a better tip would be to use a condom or a latex rubber glove, both of which are made of much thinner rubber than an elastic band. Anyhow, that's the best I can do. By the time you push on it hard, a rubber band will be thin. If you don't push hard, you don't reach the metal walls of the depression. If you do push hard, the rubber still collects in the bottom of the depression. Still blocking entry. Or the rubber comes apart ending up doing nothing. -- Dan Espen |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
nestork wrote:
'Stormin Mormon[_10_ Wrote: ;3113916'] Is the rubber band trick in case the screw threads are stripped, or in case the phillips head is rounded out? It's for the Phillips head of the screw being all mucked up so you can't turn the screw cuz the screwdriver tip is slipping. The rubber band wouldn't do anything if the threads were stripped. Actually, if it does work, it would do the same thing it suposedly does when the head is dorked - increase the friction at the metal-metal surfaces. |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On Thu, 29 Aug 2013 07:59:15 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: Would the OP please chime in? Is the rubber band trick in case the screw threads are stripped, or in case the phillips head is rounded out? The screw head was rounded. The tip was in an ad before a Youtube video. Since I watch lots of Youtube videos I doubt I could find the ad again Youtube is getting pretty good at picking videos I am interested in watching. One catch is that it frequently picks videos I have already seen. I still refuse to watch a 15 second ad to see the video. I do watch the ads you can skip in 5 seconds. If they want me to ever watch 15 second ads they are going to have to use naked girls in the ads. |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On Thu, 29 Aug 2013 06:24:55 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote: On 8/29/2013 2:51 AM, nestork wrote: The new LOX screw drive: http://tinyurl.com/oaq3kot Or, Robertson rethunk. It only works in bagel materials or as an oxidizer when used with rocket fuel. ^_^ LOX makes bagels too crunchy. |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On Thu, 29 Aug 2013 01:40:23 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote: On Thu, 29 Aug 2013 05:55:46 +0200, nestork wrote: Do you notice that you can put a lot more torque on a Roberston screw without getting that queezy feeling that the screw driver tip is about to slip out of the drive? Robertson screw drivers almost never slip out of the drive on the screw. Square drive is all I use for wood, unless it's something that comes with it's own screws. People argue about drive types. But they all work for me. And bits are dirt cheap, so you can have them all. If I'm buying the screws I prefer Torx but I agree that I'll use whatever. Philips does have the advantage of camming out rather than breaking. Drywall screws, of course, are Philips. |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On Wed, 28 Aug 2013 23:04:38 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: On 8/28/2013 8:50 PM, wrote: On Wed, 28 Aug 2013 13:04:06 -0400, "Stormin Mormon" wrote: You really need to know Jesus, so you have a plan. Ah, so it doesn't matter if it's a bad plan? No Jesus, no peace. Not buying that, either, but my comment has nothing to do with Jesus. |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On 8/29/2013 4:24 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 29 Aug 2013 06:24:55 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote: On 8/29/2013 2:51 AM, nestork wrote: The new LOX screw drive: http://tinyurl.com/oaq3kot Or, Robertson rethunk. It only works in bagel materials or as an oxidizer when used with rocket fuel. ^_^ LOX makes bagels too crunchy. Hum, there's something fishy about that. O_o TDD |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On 8/27/2013 9:13 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/27/2013 6:39 PM, Nate Nagel wrote: On 8/27/2013 4:58 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote: On 8/27/2013 1:12 PM, Nate Nagel wrote: On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote: I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help remove it. Good idea? Coarse valve grinding compound works better, if you have some handy. nate The supply houses were selling a squeeze tube of a grease like compound that had grit in it and was meant to allow a damaged Phillips head screw to be removed easily without the driver slipping. ^_^ TDD That sounds like... exactly the same stuff :) Can't blame them though, as your typical FLAPS probably doesn't sell valve grinding compound anymore as hand-lapping valves is pretty much an obsolete procedure. I think I picked up a little tin at an automotive swap meet ages ago and still have most of it. nate I believe modern engines have hardened valve seat inserts in the heads to resist wear since the lead additive, which would lubricate the valve seats, has been taken out of gasoline. Of course you must have valve seat inserts in aluminum heads but I think even iron heads need them with today's unleaded fuels containing ethanol. I don't think good old valve lapping compound with the rubber stoppered hand lapping tool would work on the newfangled hardened valve seats. ^_^ TDD Some of us still have oooooold cars! You could chuck up your suction cup on a stick into an old eggbeater hand drill, or even a small cordless, if you wanted to make the job go faster :) nate |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On 08/29/2013 03:03 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/29/2013 4:24 PM, wrote: On Thu, 29 Aug 2013 06:24:55 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote: On 8/29/2013 2:51 AM, nestork wrote: The new LOX screw drive: http://tinyurl.com/oaq3kot Or, Robertson rethunk. It only works in bagel materials or as an oxidizer when used with rocket fuel. ^_^ LOX makes bagels too crunchy. Hum, there's something fishy about that. O_o This thread is sure spawning some interesting replies.... Jon |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On 8/29/2013 6:34 PM, Jon Danniken wrote:
On 08/29/2013 03:03 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote: On 8/29/2013 4:24 PM, wrote: On Thu, 29 Aug 2013 06:24:55 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote: On 8/29/2013 2:51 AM, nestork wrote: The new LOX screw drive: http://tinyurl.com/oaq3kot Or, Robertson rethunk. It only works in bagel materials or as an oxidizer when used with rocket fuel. ^_^ LOX makes bagels too crunchy. Hum, there's something fishy about that. O_o This thread is sure spawning some interesting replies.... Jon It is showing some fertile thinking. Of course someone may chum in and ruin it all by laying an egg. ^_^ TDD |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On 8/29/2013 6:30 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 8/27/2013 9:13 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote: On 8/27/2013 6:39 PM, Nate Nagel wrote: On 8/27/2013 4:58 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote: On 8/27/2013 1:12 PM, Nate Nagel wrote: On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote: I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help remove it. Good idea? Coarse valve grinding compound works better, if you have some handy. nate The supply houses were selling a squeeze tube of a grease like compound that had grit in it and was meant to allow a damaged Phillips head screw to be removed easily without the driver slipping. ^_^ TDD That sounds like... exactly the same stuff :) Can't blame them though, as your typical FLAPS probably doesn't sell valve grinding compound anymore as hand-lapping valves is pretty much an obsolete procedure. I think I picked up a little tin at an automotive swap meet ages ago and still have most of it. nate I believe modern engines have hardened valve seat inserts in the heads to resist wear since the lead additive, which would lubricate the valve seats, has been taken out of gasoline. Of course you must have valve seat inserts in aluminum heads but I think even iron heads need them with today's unleaded fuels containing ethanol. I don't think good old valve lapping compound with the rubber stoppered hand lapping tool would work on the newfangled hardened valve seats. ^_^ TDD Some of us still have oooooold cars! You could chuck up your suction cup on a stick into an old eggbeater hand drill, or even a small cordless, if you wanted to make the job go faster :) nate I wish I had my 64 Valiant and 65 Dart with the Slant Six and automatic transmission. I even had a full sized 63 Dodge with a 225 Slant Six and the darn big old hunk of steel would get up and go. I also had a 64 Dodge cab over engine pickup, the pickup made on the van chassis with the cab forward and engine between the front seats like the van. It had a Slant Six and was a neat little truck. The vehicles were simple and easy to work on plus they rarely quit on you leaving you stranded. All you had to do was keep them serviced and the critters would run forever. I miss those old crates. ^_^ TDD |
I just saw an old car that might work
Farther north of you, the DOT salts the roads a
bit much in the winter. We still have drivers who don't know how to handle road conditions. Even with all the salt and sand, people still go off the road, wreck up, and so on. So, the vehicles from the earlier years all disappear in a pile of rust and decay. A lot of folks have historic cars, but only drive them in good weather with no road salt. .. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .. On 8/30/2013 8:14 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote: I wish I had my 64 Valiant and 65 Dart with the Slant Six and automatic transmission. I even had a full sized 63 Dodge with a 225 Slant Six and the darn big old hunk of steel would get up and go. I also had a 64 Dodge cab over engine pickup, the pickup made on the van chassis with the cab forward and engine between the front seats like the van. It had a Slant Six and was a neat little truck. The vehicles were simple and easy to work on plus they rarely quit on you leaving you stranded. All you had to do was keep them serviced and the critters would run forever. I miss those old crates. ^_^ TDD |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On Thursday, August 29, 2013 5:33:45 PM UTC-4, wrote:
If I'm buying the screws I prefer Torx but I agree that I'll use whatever. Philips does have the advantage of camming out rather than breaking. Drywall screws, of course, are Philips. Yes. Phillips screws are intended to cam out to prevent putting on too much torque. If you need more torque, like on an electrical connection, Phillips is the wrong choice. |
I just saw a home improvement tip that might work
On 8/30/2013 8:14 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/29/2013 6:30 PM, Nate Nagel wrote: On 8/27/2013 9:13 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote: On 8/27/2013 6:39 PM, Nate Nagel wrote: On 8/27/2013 4:58 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote: On 8/27/2013 1:12 PM, Nate Nagel wrote: On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote: I never tried this, but the tip says if you have a stripped Phillips screw, you can put a rubber band between the tip and the screw to help remove it. Good idea? Coarse valve grinding compound works better, if you have some handy. nate The supply houses were selling a squeeze tube of a grease like compound that had grit in it and was meant to allow a damaged Phillips head screw to be removed easily without the driver slipping. ^_^ TDD That sounds like... exactly the same stuff :) Can't blame them though, as your typical FLAPS probably doesn't sell valve grinding compound anymore as hand-lapping valves is pretty much an obsolete procedure. I think I picked up a little tin at an automotive swap meet ages ago and still have most of it. nate I believe modern engines have hardened valve seat inserts in the heads to resist wear since the lead additive, which would lubricate the valve seats, has been taken out of gasoline. Of course you must have valve seat inserts in aluminum heads but I think even iron heads need them with today's unleaded fuels containing ethanol. I don't think good old valve lapping compound with the rubber stoppered hand lapping tool would work on the newfangled hardened valve seats. ^_^ TDD Some of us still have oooooold cars! You could chuck up your suction cup on a stick into an old eggbeater hand drill, or even a small cordless, if you wanted to make the job go faster :) nate I wish I had my 64 Valiant and 65 Dart with the Slant Six and automatic transmission. I even had a full sized 63 Dodge with a 225 Slant Six and the darn big old hunk of steel would get up and go. I also had a 64 Dodge cab over engine pickup, the pickup made on the van chassis with the cab forward and engine between the front seats like the van. It had a Slant Six and was a neat little truck. The vehicles were simple and easy to work on plus they rarely quit on you leaving you stranded. All you had to do was keep them serviced and the critters would run forever. I miss those old crates. ^_^ TDD Ayup... female type I dated for a while had a '69 Valiant (in the late 90's - early 2000's) and literally all the work that was done to it over a period of about 5 years was that I rebuilt the front suspension (bushings were dry rotted so an inspector failed it for that and tie rod ends) she put new tires on it and once when it sat for a couple weeks I had to replace the carb because dipping the original carb in cleaner to clean it out revealed that the jet block was disintegrating. She never set the valve lash and had a heavy foot so somewhere in there it got a head rebuild. Oh, and the usual ballast resistor replacement. Other than that it basically took gas and oil and just ran, we drove the snot out of it. It was registered as a regular old car and passed safety every year. Wish I knew where that car was today; I'd have bought it off her when she was done with it, but apparently she got offers on it all the time and just took one, and I apparently wasn't near the top of her "favorites" list at the time. nate |
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