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#1
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Removing an Allen screw
I have a metal coupler about 3" in diameter with a shaft through it. The
coupler is at the end of the shaft of a motor, and is about 15 pounds. The motor is parallel to the bench it is on. There are two Allen screws that are separated by 135 degrees screwed into the coupler. I can not get either of them out. I'm using a 1/8th inch Allen wrench and do not want to break it. I tried using penetration oil to dislodge the screws, but to know avail. Any suggestions? |
#2
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Removing an Allen screw
On Sun, 28 Jul 2013 17:05:04 -0700, "W. eWatson"
wrote: I have a metal coupler about 3" in diameter with a shaft through it. The coupler is at the end of the shaft of a motor, and is about 15 pounds. The motor is parallel to the bench it is on. There are two Allen screws that are separated by 135 degrees screwed into the coupler. I can not get either of them out. I'm using a 1/8th inch Allen wrench and do not want to break it. I tried using penetration oil to dislodge the screws, but to know avail. Any suggestions? Heat |
#3
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Removing an Allen screw
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#4
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Removing an Allen screw
On Sun, 28 Jul 2013 17:05:04 -0700, "W. eWatson"
wrote: I tried using penetration oil to dislodge the screws, but to know avail. Any suggestions? Soak 'em over night. A little bit of vibration by taping with a small hammer..... |
#5
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Removing an Allen screw
On Sun, 28 Jul 2013 19:27:24 -0500, Dean Hoffman
" wrote: Try tightening, then loosening. Tap on the Allen wrench at the bend. Pretend you're driving the Allen wrench into the screws. +1 I'm feeling vibrations Liquid wrench will travel in the set screw threads. |
#6
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Removing an Allen screw
On 07/28/2013 08:36 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 28 Jul 2013 19:27:24 -0500, Dean Hoffman " wrote: Try tightening, then loosening. Tap on the Allen wrench at the bend. Pretend you're driving the Allen wrench into the screws. +1 I'm feeling vibrations Liquid wrench will travel in the set screw threads. If that doesn't work, try hammering in a torx bit. If *that* doesn't work, Allen head screws are easier to drill than a lot of other types, because your drill bit will self center. nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
#7
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Removing an Allen screw
On Sunday, July 28, 2013 8:05:04 PM UTC-4, W. eWatson wrote:
I have a metal coupler about 3" in diameter with a shaft through it. The coupler is at the end of the shaft of a motor, and is about 15 pounds. The motor is parallel to the bench it is on. There are two Allen screws that are separated by 135 degrees screwed into the coupler. I can not get either of them out. I'm using a 1/8th inch Allen wrench and do not want to break it. I tried using penetration oil to dislodge the screws, but to know avail. Any suggestions? If you cannot drill it cut it. get a new coupler. |
#8
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Removing an Allen screw
On 7/28/2013 8:05 PM, W. eWatson wrote:
I have a metal coupler about 3" in diameter with a shaft through it. The coupler is at the end of the shaft of a motor, and is about 15 pounds. The motor is parallel to the bench it is on. There are two Allen screws that are separated by 135 degrees screwed into the coupler. I can not get either of them out. I'm using a 1/8th inch Allen wrench and do not want to break it. I tried using penetration oil to dislodge the screws, but to know avail. Any suggestions? All of the above are good suggestions. I'm prone to heat with the penetrating oil. Spray oil, then heat coupler. The expansion will allow the oil to set in. Then do as suggested with back and forth (or righty and lefty), breaking it loose. Spraying, heating then leaving it over night is another option as well. |
#9
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Removing an Allen screw
On Sun, 28 Jul 2013 21:49:38 -0400, Meanie
wrote: All of the above are good suggestions. I'm prone to heat with the penetrating oil. Spray oil, then heat coupler. The expansion will allow the oil to set in. Then do as suggested with back and forth (or righty and lefty), breaking it loose. Spraying, heating then leaving it over night is another option as well. They would be my choices |
#10
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Removing an Allen screw
On Sun, 28 Jul 2013 20:41:51 -0400, Nate Nagel
wrote: On 07/28/2013 08:36 PM, Oren wrote: On Sun, 28 Jul 2013 19:27:24 -0500, Dean Hoffman " wrote: Try tightening, then loosening. Tap on the Allen wrench at the bend. Pretend you're driving the Allen wrench into the screws. +1 I'm feeling vibrations Liquid wrench will travel in the set screw threads. Yes, heat, liquid wrench, with tapping (as it says on the container) and tightening before loosening. If that doesn't work, try hammering in a torx bit. If *that* doesn't work, Allen head screws are easier to drill than a lot of other types, because your drill bit will self center. Well, if you're going to drill, a last resort, get a left-handed drill bit and a reversable drill and run the drill backwards. That way you have a good chance the drill will unscrew the Allen screw, before it ruins, or totally ruins, the threads. Home Depot sells them one at a time from a VA, and Harbor Freight has a set from an unknown source, but they've changed how many. For occasional use, HF is probably fine. nate |
#11
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There was a similar thread in here a few weeks back about removing the set screw that holds a single lever faucet handle in place. One of the suggestions in that thread; the best one IMHO, was to use a left hand twist drill bit to drill out the stuck set screw. I think that advice would apply equally well here.
If removing the set screws by conventional means doesn't pan out, and after you've drenched it with penetrating oil and whacked on a torx bit and you find you have no option but to drill out that set screw, buy a left hand twist drill bit to do it with, or a few of 'em. There's a good chance the drill bit itself will take the set screw out. If not, you're no worse off than if you'd use a regular right hand twist bit to drill it out. In fact, may be use a small left hand twist drill bit to try drilling it out, and then try and Easy-Out to take it out, and if that doesn't work, buy a bigger left hand twist drill bit to drill it out. Last edited by nestork : July 29th 13 at 03:24 AM |
#12
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Removing an Allen screw
On 07/28/2013 10:08 PM, micky wrote:
On Sun, 28 Jul 2013 20:41:51 -0400, Nate Nagel wrote: On 07/28/2013 08:36 PM, Oren wrote: On Sun, 28 Jul 2013 19:27:24 -0500, Dean Hoffman " wrote: Try tightening, then loosening. Tap on the Allen wrench at the bend. Pretend you're driving the Allen wrench into the screws. +1 I'm feeling vibrations Liquid wrench will travel in the set screw threads. Yes, heat, liquid wrench, with tapping (as it says on the container) and tightening before loosening. If that doesn't work, try hammering in a torx bit. If *that* doesn't work, Allen head screws are easier to drill than a lot of other types, because your drill bit will self center. Well, if you're going to drill, a last resort, get a left-handed drill bit and a reversable drill and run the drill backwards. That way you have a good chance the drill will unscrew the Allen screw, before it ruins, or totally ruins, the threads. Home Depot sells them one at a time from a VA, and Harbor Freight has a set from an unknown source, but they've changed how many. For occasional use, HF is probably fine. nate I've never seen them at HD but I did buy a set from HF as they're relatively inexpensive compared to the sources that I'm aware of that sell quality stuff (McMaster-Carr, Grainger, etc.) I haven't used them yet though (thankfully!) so I can't give you any impressions of them other than they look like left-handed drill bits. nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
#13
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Removing an Allen screw
On Sun, 28 Jul 2013 22:24:18 -0400, Nate Nagel
wrote: On 07/28/2013 10:08 PM, micky wrote: On Sun, 28 Jul 2013 20:41:51 -0400, Nate Nagel wrote: On 07/28/2013 08:36 PM, Oren wrote: On Sun, 28 Jul 2013 19:27:24 -0500, Dean Hoffman " wrote: Try tightening, then loosening. Tap on the Allen wrench at the bend. Pretend you're driving the Allen wrench into the screws. +1 I'm feeling vibrations Liquid wrench will travel in the set screw threads. Yes, heat, liquid wrench, with tapping (as it says on the container) and tightening before loosening. If that doesn't work, try hammering in a torx bit. If *that* doesn't work, Allen head screws are easier to drill than a lot of other types, because your drill bit will self center. Well, if you're going to drill, a last resort, get a left-handed drill bit and a reversable drill and run the drill backwards. That way you have a good chance the drill will unscrew the Allen screw, before it ruins, or totally ruins, the threads. Home Depot sells them one at a time from a VA, and Harbor Freight has a set from an unknown source, but they've changed how many. For occasional use, HF is probably fine. nate I've never seen them at HD but I did buy a set from HF as they're Maybe I'm wrong. Maybe the web had them from VA. relatively inexpensive compared to the sources that I'm aware of that sell quality stuff (McMaster-Carr, Grainger, etc.) I haven't used them yet though (thankfully!) so I can't give you any impressions of them other than they look like left-handed drill bits. Yes, they got that part right. A good sign. nate |
#14
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Removing an Allen screw
On 07-28-2013 20:05, W. eWatson wrote:
I have a metal coupler about 3" in diameter with a shaft through it. The coupler is at the end of the shaft of a motor, and is about 15 pounds. The motor is parallel to the bench it is on. There are two Allen screws that are separated by 135 degrees screwed into the coupler. I can not get either of them out. I'm using a 1/8th inch Allen wrench and do not want to break it. I tried using penetration oil to dislodge the screws, but to know avail. Any suggestions? Can you find a straight, screwdriver-style allen? I've had success with stubborn screws by simulating an impact wrench--grab the handle and twist as hard as I can, and with the torque still applied, smack the end of the screwdriver with a hammer. -- Wes Groleau Armchair Activism: http://www.breakthechain.org/armchair.html |
#15
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Removing an Allen screw
On Sun, 28 Jul 2013 17:05:04 -0700, "W. eWatson"
wrote: I have a metal coupler about 3" in diameter with a shaft through it. The coupler is at the end of the shaft of a motor, and is about 15 pounds. The motor is parallel to the bench it is on. There are two Allen screws that are separated by 135 degrees screwed into the coupler. I can not get either of them out. I'm using a 1/8th inch Allen wrench and do not want to break it. I tried using penetration oil to dislodge the screws, but to know avail. Any suggestions? I have good results with PB Blaster penetrant. I would try a hammer operated hand impact tool with a socket mounted allen on the square drive adapter. -- Mr.E |
#16
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Removing an Allen screw
On Monday, July 29, 2013 7:27:07 AM UTC-4, Mr. E wrote:
On Sun, 28 Jul 2013 17:05:04 -0700, "W. eWatson" wrote: I have a metal coupler about 3" in diameter with a shaft through it. The coupler is at the end of the shaft of a motor, and is about 15 pounds. The motor is parallel to the bench it is on. There are two Allen screws that are separated by 135 degrees screwed into the coupler. I can not get either of them out. I'm using a 1/8th inch Allen wrench and do not want to break it. I tried using penetration oil to dislodge the screws, but to know avail. Any suggestions? I have good results with PB Blaster penetrant. I would try a hammer operated hand impact tool with a socket mounted allen on the square drive adapter. -- Mr.E Is he using a regular L shaped wrench or an allen head bit in a socket wrench? I find the latter better for hard to remove screws. You can get more torque on it and it's more stable. |
#17
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Removing an Allen screw
On Sun, 28 Jul 2013 17:05:04 -0700, W. eWatson wrote:
I tried using penetration oil to dislodge the screws, but to know avail. Any suggestions? I only know the classic top-ten solutions to stuck nuts & bolts: 1. Penetrating oil (you used that already) 2. Tapping (because kinetic friction is less than static friction?) 3. Heat (expansion and contraction may break chemical bonds?) 4. Leverage (a longer stronger allen key can move the world) 5. Impact drivers (I don't see how you can fit them in here though) 6. Screw extractors (I don't see how you can drill the center though) 7. Nut crackers (I don't see that you can crack the head here though) 8. Oversized tools (which works when the heads are stripped) 9. Saws (to cut off the head of the bolt) 10. Drills (drill out and retap the bolt hole) Given your situation, I only see the first 4 standing any chance of fitting in your narrow confines. |
#18
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Removing an Allen screw
Castle Thrust (penetrating oil) works for me. Also, lots of heat, from
Mapp or acetylene torch may help. .. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .. On 7/28/2013 8:05 PM, W. eWatson wrote: I have a metal coupler about 3" in diameter with a shaft through it. The coupler is at the end of the shaft of a motor, and is about 15 pounds. The motor is parallel to the bench it is on. There are two Allen screws that are separated by 135 degrees screwed into the coupler. I can not get either of them out. I'm using a 1/8th inch Allen wrench and do not want to break it. I tried using penetration oil to dislodge the screws, but to know avail. Any suggestions? |
#19
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Removing an Allen screw
If you can find Castle Thrust, I've had good results with that. Loosened
the headlight adjuster screws on my Blazer, after several other penetrants failed. I'm pickin up good vibrations. .. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .. On 7/28/2013 8:36 PM, Oren wrote: On Sun, 28 Jul 2013 19:27:24 -0500, Dean Hoffman " wrote: Try tightening, then loosening. Tap on the Allen wrench at the bend. Pretend you're driving the Allen wrench into the screws. +1 I'm feeling vibrations Liquid wrench will travel in the set screw threads. |
#20
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Removing an Allen screw
Left handed drill bits?
.. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .. On 7/28/2013 8:41 PM, Nate Nagel wrote: I'm feeling vibrations Liquid wrench will travel in the set screw threads. If that doesn't work, try hammering in a torx bit. If *that* doesn't work, Allen head screws are easier to drill than a lot of other types, because your drill bit will self center. nate |
#21
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Removing an Allen screw
"Danny D." writes:
On Sun, 28 Jul 2013 17:05:04 -0700, W. eWatson wrote: I tried using penetration oil to dislodge the screws, but to know avail. Any suggestions? I only know the classic top-ten solutions to stuck nuts & bolts: 6. Screw extractors (I don't see how you can drill the center though) The stuck allen screw in my kitchen faucet yielded to a screw extractor. Don't remember if I drilled the center or not, I think I just used a size that grabbed hold of the 6 sided indentation. -- Dan Espen |
#22
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Removing an Allen screw
On Mon, 29 Jul 2013 20:23:04 +0000, Danny D. wrote:
1. Penetrating oil (you used that already) 2. Tapping (because kinetic friction is less than static friction?) 3. Heat (expansion and contraction may break chemical bonds?) 4. Leverage (a longer stronger allen key can move the world) 5. Impact drivers (I don't see how you can fit them in here though) 6. Screw extractors (I don't see how you can drill the center though) 7. Nut crackers (I don't see that you can crack the head here though) 8. Oversized tools (which works when the heads are stripped) 9. Saws (to cut off the head of the bolt) 10. Drills (drill out and retap the bolt hole) 11. Cursing up a blue storm! 12. Calling up a repair man! |
#23
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Removing an Allen screw
On Mon, 29 Jul 2013 19:01:17 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: Left handed drill bits? . http://www.mcmaster.com/#left-hand-drill-bits/=nu8r3r |
#24
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Removing an Allen screw
On Sunday, July 28, 2013 7:05:04 PM UTC-5, W. eWatson wrote:
I have a metal coupler about 3" in diameter with a shaft through it. The coupler is at the end of the shaft of a motor, and is about 15 pounds. The motor is parallel to the bench it is on. There are two Allen screws that are separated by 135 degrees screwed into the coupler. I can not get either of them out. I'm using a 1/8th inch Allen wrench and do not want to break it.. I tried using penetration oil to dislodge the screws, but to know avail. Any suggestions? I would heat it fairly hot and then spray WD40 or the penetrating oil on the screw threads. As the setscrew cools, it will pull the WD40 into the threads. I usually use a Bernzomatic torch or equivalent to do the heating, just do not get the coupler so hot that it loses its temper, if any. A couple of heat and extrme cooliing cylces usually breaks almost anything free |
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