I purchased a home a couple years ago that was a foreclosure home. It is
way out in the country and runs on a well system. The well is about 365 ft
deep and has a 3HP 230V 60hz submersible pump set at about 350 ft down the
well. Up a hill about 300 ft from the well head is a concrete and gravel
pad where a water storage tank used to sit. I am told that the previous
owners removed the storage tank and booster pump system when they left the
home during the foreclosure process. The first year I was in the home I
was too busy moving in etc to worry much about the outside landscaping
needs. This year I repaired all the landscaping water lines etc and
started to water everything the way it should have been and discovered an
issue. The well pump is capable of pumping about 20 gallons a minute from
the well but the well appears to only be capable of supplying about 7 to 8
gallons per minute. Therefore it pumps like crazy for about 15 minutes and
then begins to starve.
I had a well company come out and look at the set up. They tell me that I
really need to re-install the storage tank up on the hill in the original
location. They tell me that the price for that install will be about
$6000.00. I would love to just pay them the money and have them do the
work but I simply don't have that kind of cash. The main reason they
suggested the storage tank is that we are in a high fire danger area and
without the stored water our home would most likely be lost as the fire
department would not have enough water to fight the fire from our current
well set up.
Currently, the well pump line feeds a pressure switch and then two
pressure tanks that then feed the house and landscaping supply lines. I am
very handy with most home projects like many people who live out in the
country. I have a friend who is a contractor and we can perform most
plumbing and electrical projects. I am trying to determine if this project
is simple enough that I can do most of the work myself and trim the cost
down substantially from the $6000.00. I know the tank, pump, fittings, and
controls will cost some but hope I can perform the labor and cut the costs.
The biggest problem I have is that I have never seen one of these systems
set up and don't know exactly how to plump or wire the controls etc. I can
do the work but have been unable to locate any type of design drawings to
show me how to set up the system so that it will function properly.
The old pad foundation where the original storage tank was located is up a
hill about 300 feet from the well head and is elevated about 30 to 35 feet
higher than the well head and pressure tanks. There is an abandoned 1"
black poly tubing that runs from the well head area to the base of where
the old storage tank was. There is a 2" PVC line that runs from the well
head area to the base of where the old storage tank was. There is also
electrical conduit running between the well head area and old storage tank
but no wire. I am figuring the 1" black poly tubing was most likely the
fill line directly from the well head to the storage tank. The 2" PVC line
most likely came out of the bottom of the storage tank and down the hill
to feed the booster pump. Then I think the booster pump would be plumbed
into the pressure switch and then the pressure tanks which in turn will
supply the house and landscaping with pressurized water.
I will need to purchase and wire in a pumptec from Franklin controls to
protect my well pump from trying to continue pumping when the well water
level runs low. I originally thought about switching out the well pump
with a smaller pump rated at less than the 7 to 8 gallon rate the well can
supply but the well company representative said since the well pump is in
good shape and working fine it would be an added expense that isn't
necessary at this time. I also will need to purchase and wire in a good
control system to sense the water levels in the storage tank and turn on
and off the well pump etc and provide alarms if water levels get too low
or too high. In addition to some misc fittings the other major components
I will need are the storage tank and a booster pump.
I know this is a long post but wanted to provide as much info as I thought
you would need to provide assistance with this project. Thank you!


--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...on-756558-.htm
using HomeOwnersHub's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface
to home and garden related groups

On Sunday, July 21, 2013 7:44:01 PM UTC-7, Coccopine wrote:
I purchased a home a couple years ago that was a foreclosure home. It is

way out in the country and runs on a well system. The well is about 365 ft

deep and has a 3HP 230V 60hz submersible pump set at about 350 ft down the

well. Up a hill about 300 ft from the well head is a concrete and gravel

pad where a water storage tank used to sit. I am told that the previous

owners removed the storage tank and booster pump system when they left the

home during the foreclosure process. The first year I was in the home I

was too busy moving in etc to worry much about the outside landscaping

needs. This year I repaired all the landscaping water lines etc and

started to water everything the way it should have been and discovered an

issue. The well pump is capable of pumping about 20 gallons a minute from

the well but the well appears to only be capable of supplying about 7 to 8

gallons per minute. Therefore it pumps like crazy for about 15 minutes and

then begins to starve.

using HomeOwnersHub's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface

to home and garden related groups

The big cost will be the tank but you may be able to find a used one somewhere.

Can't help much as haven't worked them but below is one way to do it, may not be the professional way though.

Basic set up is to run your well pump on a timer to limit how long it can run without running out of water feeding the tank. A float switch in the tank to tell the pump when the tank is full. The booster pump and tank should come in swell under a $500, basically all you need is a shallow well pump at the tank and another pressure tank plus associated electrical controls...

On Mon, 22 Jul 2013 02:44:01 +0000, Coccopine
wrote in
.com Re Well
Storage Tank Set-up and Installation:

I purchased a home a couple years ago that was a foreclosure home. It is
way out in the country and runs on a well system. The well is about 365 ft
deep and has a 3HP 230V 60hz submersible pump set at about 350 ft down the
well. Up a hill about 300 ft from the well head is a concrete and gravel
pad where a water storage tank used to sit. I am told that the previous
owners removed the storage tank and booster pump system when they left the
home during the foreclosure process. The first year I was in the home I
was too busy moving in etc to worry much about the outside landscaping
needs. This year I repaired all the landscaping water lines etc and
started to water everything the way it should have been and discovered an
issue. The well pump is capable of pumping about 20 gallons a minute from
the well but the well appears to only be capable of supplying about 7 to 8
gallons per minute. Therefore it pumps like crazy for about 15 minutes and
then begins to starve.
I had a well company come out and look at the set up. They tell me that I
really need to re-install the storage tank up on the hill in the original
location. They tell me that the price for that install will be about
$6000.00. I would love to just pay them the money and have them do the
work but I simply don't have that kind of cash. The main reason they
suggested the storage tank is that we are in a high fire danger area and
without the stored water our home would most likely be lost as the fire
department would not have enough water to fight the fire from our current
well set up.
Currently, the well pump line feeds a pressure switch and then two
pressure tanks that then feed the house and landscaping supply lines. I am
very handy with most home projects like many people who live out in the
country. I have a friend who is a contractor and we can perform most
plumbing and electrical projects. I am trying to determine if this project
is simple enough that I can do most of the work myself and trim the cost
down substantially from the $6000.00. I know the tank, pump, fittings, and
controls will cost some but hope I can perform the labor and cut the costs.
The biggest problem I have is that I have never seen one of these systems
set up and don't know exactly how to plump or wire the controls etc. I can
do the work but have been unable to locate any type of design drawings to
show me how to set up the system so that it will function properly.
The old pad foundation where the original storage tank was located is up a
hill about 300 feet from the well head and is elevated about 30 to 35 feet
higher than the well head and pressure tanks. There is an abandoned 1"
black poly tubing that runs from the well head area to the base of where
the old storage tank was. There is a 2" PVC line that runs from the well
head area to the base of where the old storage tank was. There is also
electrical conduit running between the well head area and old storage tank
but no wire. I am figuring the 1" black poly tubing was most likely the
fill line directly from the well head to the storage tank. The 2" PVC line
most likely came out of the bottom of the storage tank and down the hill
to feed the booster pump. Then I think the booster pump would be plumbed
into the pressure switch and then the pressure tanks which in turn will
supply the house and landscaping with pressurized water.
I will need to purchase and wire in a pumptec from Franklin controls to
protect my well pump from trying to continue pumping when the well water
level runs low. I originally thought about switching out the well pump
with a smaller pump rated at less than the 7 to 8 gallon rate the well can
supply but the well company representative said since the well pump is in
good shape and working fine it would be an added expense that isn't
necessary at this time. I also will need to purchase and wire in a good
control system to sense the water levels in the storage tank and turn on
and off the well pump etc and provide alarms if water levels get too low
or too high. In addition to some misc fittings the other major components
I will need are the storage tank and a booster pump.
I know this is a long post but wanted to provide as much info as I thought
you would need to provide assistance with this project. Thank you!

What you need first are;

1) Pressure tank of at least 120 gal size ($550) along with a
pressure switch to control the pump on/off action.

2) The pressure switch gets mounted on the water line as close as
possible to the pressure tank. The wiring goes from your house to the
pressure switch to the pump. Set the pressure tank bladder pressure
(pressure in the bladder when the thank is empty of water) to about 3
psi less than the pressure switch turn-ON pressure. So, if you set
the pressure switch to turn on the pump at 40psi, set the bladder
pressure to about 37psi.

That will give you a basic full functioning well water supply system
once you have performed any repairs on the associated water piping.
Get the above done first.

When you basic system is functioning then you can tackle a water
storage tank. You can get a 2500 gal above ground tank for about
$1500. I think all you will need for the storage tank is a high level
float valve with a pipe (and valves) connecting to your water supply
system; and appropriate sized outflow pipes at the bottom of the tank
(3/4" to supply your house and 2" to supply the fire department).
--
Web based forums are like subscribing to 10 different newspapers
and having to visit 10 different news stands to pickup each one.
Email list-server groups and USENET are like having all of those
newspapers delivered to your door every morning.

Coccopine wrote:

Up a hill about 300 ft from the well head is a concrete and gravel
pad where a water storage tank used to sit. I am told that the
previous owners removed the storage tank and booster pump system
when they left the home during the foreclosure process.

They tell me that I really need to re-install the storage tank up
on the hill in the original location. They tell me that the price
for that install will be about $6000.00.

You don't mention what the capacity was of the old tank.

Have a look at this:

http://www.farmshow.com/view_articles.php?a_id=213

http://www.watertanks.com/pioneer_water_tanks.asp

Do-it-yourself tank:

http://www.motherearthnews.com/diy/w...rage-tank.aspx

Where are you located?

In other words - does your tank need to be insulated from sub-freezing
temps?

Plastic/poly tanks in the range of 4,000 gallons seem to cost about
$6k. For most sizes, you're paying roughly $1 per gallon:

http://www.tank-depot.com/product.aspx?id=312

Depending on how durable this tank needs to be, you could also use an
above-ground swimming pool as a tank:

http://www.poolspausa.com/pools/Gard..._EclipseLX.htm

18-foot diameter pool would set you back $2200, give you 7300 gallons of
storage.

How large is the existing pad?

On Sunday, July 21, 2013 10:44:01 PM UTC-4, Coccopine wrote:
I purchased a home a couple years ago that was a foreclosure home. It is

way out in the country and runs on a well system. The well is about 365 ft

deep and has a 3HP 230V 60hz submersible pump set at about 350 ft down the

well. Up a hill about 300 ft from the well head is a concrete and gravel

pad where a water storage tank used to sit. I am told that the previous

owners removed the storage tank and booster pump system when they left the

home during the foreclosure process. The first year I was in the home I

was too busy moving in etc to worry much about the outside landscaping

needs. This year I repaired all the landscaping water lines etc and

started to water everything the way it should have been and discovered an

issue. The well pump is capable of pumping about 20 gallons a minute from

the well but the well appears to only be capable of supplying about 7 to 8

gallons per minute. Therefore it pumps like crazy for about 15 minutes and

then begins to starve.

I had a well company come out and look at the set up. They tell me that I

really need to re-install the storage tank up on the hill in the original

location. They tell me that the price for that install will be about

$6000.00. I would love to just pay them the money and have them do the

work but I simply don't have that kind of cash. The main reason they

suggested the storage tank is that we are in a high fire danger area and

without the stored water our home would most likely be lost as the fire

department would not have enough water to fight the fire from our current

well set up.

Currently, the well pump line feeds a pressure switch and then two

pressure tanks that then feed the house and landscaping supply lines. I am

very handy with most home projects like many people who live out in the

country. I have a friend who is a contractor and we can perform most

plumbing and electrical projects. I am trying to determine if this project

is simple enough that I can do most of the work myself and trim the cost

down substantially from the $6000.00. I know the tank, pump, fittings, and

controls will cost some but hope I can perform the labor and cut the costs.

The biggest problem I have is that I have never seen one of these systems

set up and don't know exactly how to plump or wire the controls etc. I can

do the work but have been unable to locate any type of design drawings to

show me how to set up the system so that it will function properly.

The old pad foundation where the original storage tank was located is up a

hill about 300 feet from the well head and is elevated about 30 to 35 feet

higher than the well head and pressure tanks. There is an abandoned 1"

black poly tubing that runs from the well head area to the base of where

the old storage tank was. There is a 2" PVC line that runs from the well

head area to the base of where the old storage tank was. There is also

electrical conduit running between the well head area and old storage tank

but no wire. I am figuring the 1" black poly tubing was most likely the

fill line directly from the well head to the storage tank. The 2" PVC line

most likely came out of the bottom of the storage tank and down the hill

to feed the booster pump. Then I think the booster pump would be plumbed

into the pressure switch and then the pressure tanks which in turn will

supply the house and landscaping with pressurized water.

I will need to purchase and wire in a pumptec from Franklin controls to

protect my well pump from trying to continue pumping when the well water

level runs low. I originally thought about switching out the well pump

with a smaller pump rated at less than the 7 to 8 gallon rate the well can

supply but the well company representative said since the well pump is in

good shape and working fine it would be an added expense that isn't

necessary at this time. I also will need to purchase and wire in a good

control system to sense the water levels in the storage tank and turn on

and off the well pump etc and provide alarms if water levels get too low

or too high. In addition to some misc fittings the other major components

I will need are the storage tank and a booster pump.

I know this is a long post but wanted to provide as much info as I thought

you would need to provide assistance with this project. Thank you!







Some thoughts. I think there are some separate issues here that
need to be thought out. First, you've been living there for some
time and the well apparently was fine for supplying domestic water
needs. Looks like it only became a problem when you went to watering
the landscape. If that is true, why couldn't you re-zone the irrigation
so that it matches the well? You could have three 2 gpm heads per
zone. As long as you water from say 12am to 6am, when other usage
would typically be very low, it should work.

Next is how important that tank would be for fire protection, insurance
premium reduction?, etc. I would really look into that. My first
thought would be that it might not really do much. My thought is that
if a forest fire does arrive, you may need a huge amount of water and
a tank size that holds 500 gallons, etc might not really do much
good. Again, I have no experience on this, but there must be some
guidelines as to sizes of tank vs probablility of it actually saving
your house. Also, that probably explains why there is a 2" line
coming back down the hill. The 1" is fine for supplying the house,
but wouldn't do much for a fire truck, etc.

As far as making it all work, I would think you could find examples
online. I would think it's just a matter of a switch that responds
to water level in the tank that opens a fill valve. The fill is
sized so that it's within the rate of the well. You then need a
pump to deliver the water at pressure when needed. I would think
that pump could be located where convenient, ie at the bottom of
the hill, doesn't have to be at the tank.

On Mon, 22 Jul 2013 02:44:01 +0000, Coccopine
m wrote in
s.com Re Well
Storage Tank Set-up and Installation:

I purchased a home a couple years ago that was a foreclosure home. It is
way out in the country and runs on a well system. The well is about 365 ft
deep and has a 3HP 230V 60hz submersible pump set at about 350 ft down the
well. Up a hill about 300 ft from the well head is a concrete and gravel
pad where a water storage tank used to sit.

Just to clarify, you are lifting water 365' to the well head and
another 300' to the gravel pad where the storage take will sit. At
that 665' level, if you want something like 50 psi pressure at the
outflow then you are in effect adding another 100' to the 665' for a
total effective lift of 765'. That would require a 2 hp pump to
deliver 10 gpm, so you are well set on the pump size.
--
Web based forums are like subscribing to 10 different newspapers
and having to visit 10 different news stands to pickup each one.
Email list-server groups and USENET are like having all of those
newspapers delivered to your door every morning.

"Coccopine" wrote in
message oups.com...
I purchased a home a couple years ago that was a foreclosure home. It is
way out in the country and runs on a well system. The well is about 365 ft
deep and has a 3HP 230V 60hz submersible pump set at about 350 ft down the
well. Up a hill about 300 ft from the well head is a concrete and gravel
pad where a water storage tank used to sit. I am told that the previous
owners removed the storage tank and booster pump system when they left the
home during the foreclosure process. The first year I was in the home I
was too busy moving in etc to worry much about the outside landscaping
needs. This year I repaired all the landscaping water lines etc and
started to water everything the way it should have been and discovered an
issue. The well pump is capable of pumping about 20 gallons a minute from
the well but the well appears to only be capable of supplying about 7 to 8
gallons per minute. Therefore it pumps like crazy for about 15 minutes and
then begins to starve.
I had a well company come out and look at the set up. They tell me that I
really need to re-install the storage tank up on the hill in the original
location. They tell me that the price for that install will be about
$6000.00. I would love to just pay them the money and have them do the
work but I simply don't have that kind of cash. The main reason they
suggested the storage tank is that we are in a high fire danger area and
without the stored water our home would most likely be lost as the fire
department would not have enough water to fight the fire from our current
well set up.
Currently, the well pump line feeds a pressure switch and then two
pressure tanks that then feed the house and landscaping supply lines. I am
very handy with most home projects like many people who live out in the
country. I have a friend who is a contractor and we can perform most
plumbing and electrical projects. I am trying to determine if this project
is simple enough that I can do most of the work myself and trim the cost
down substantially from the $6000.00. I know the tank, pump, fittings, and
controls will cost some but hope I can perform the labor and cut the
costs.
The biggest problem I have is that I have never seen one of these systems
set up and don't know exactly how to plump or wire the controls etc. I can
do the work but have been unable to locate any type of design drawings to
show me how to set up the system so that it will function properly. The
old pad foundation where the original storage tank was located is up a
hill about 300 feet from the well head and is elevated about 30 to 35 feet
higher than the well head and pressure tanks. There is an abandoned 1"
black poly tubing that runs from the well head area to the base of where
the old storage tank was. There is a 2" PVC line that runs from the well
head area to the base of where the old storage tank was. There is also
electrical conduit running between the well head area and old storage tank
but no wire. I am figuring the 1" black poly tubing was most likely the
fill line directly from the well head to the storage tank. The 2" PVC line
most likely came out of the bottom of the storage tank and down the hill
to feed the booster pump. Then I think the booster pump would be plumbed
into the pressure switch and then the pressure tanks which in turn will
supply the house and landscaping with pressurized water.
I will need to purchase and wire in a pumptec from Franklin controls to
protect my well pump from trying to continue pumping when the well water
level runs low. I originally thought about switching out the well pump
with a smaller pump rated at less than the 7 to 8 gallon rate the well can
supply but the well company representative said since the well pump is in
good shape and working fine it would be an added expense that isn't
necessary at this time. I also will need to purchase and wire in a good
control system to sense the water levels in the storage tank and turn on
and off the well pump etc and provide alarms if water levels get too low
or too high. In addition to some misc fittings the other major components
I will need are the storage tank and a booster pump.
I know this is a long post but wanted to provide as much info as I thought
you would need to provide assistance with this project. Thank you!


http://www.watertanks.com/category/6/

On Monday, July 22, 2013 7:02:27 AM UTC-7, CRNG wrote:
On Mon, 22 Jul 2013 02:44:01 +0000, Coccopine

wrote in

f354e$51ec9c71$cf3aab60$5185@news. Re Well

Storage Tank Set-up and Installation:



I purchased a home a couple years ago that was a foreclosure home. It is

way out in the country and runs on a well system. The well is about 365 ft

deep and has a 3HP 230V 60hz submersible pump set at about 350 ft down the

well. Up a hill about 300 ft from the well head is a concrete and gravel

pad where a water storage tank used to sit.



Just to clarify, you are lifting water 365' to the well head and

another 300' to the gravel pad where the storage take will sit. At

that 665' level, if you want something like 50 psi pressure at the

outflow then you are in effect adding another 100' to the 665' for a

total effective lift of 765'. That would require a 2 hp pump to

deliver 10 gpm, so you are well set on the pump size.


Just a nit pick. Your 365' lift is only operable when the well is "pumped dry". It will be less than that when the pump first kicks in. Less by how much? depends on the static water level at the start and increases as the level decreases

Harry K

Harry K wrote:
On Monday, July 22, 2013 7:02:27 AM UTC-7, CRNG wrote:
On Mon, 22 Jul 2013 02:44:01 +0000, Coccopine

wrote in

f354e$51ec9c71$cf3aab60$5185@news. Re Well

Storage Tank Set-up and Installation:



I purchased a home a couple years ago that was a foreclosure home.
It is

way out in the country and runs on a well system. The well is
about 365 ft

deep and has a 3HP 230V 60hz submersible pump set at about 350 ft
down the

well. Up a hill about 300 ft from the well head is a concrete and
gravel

pad where a water storage tank used to sit.



Just to clarify, you are lifting water 365' to the well head and

another 300' to the gravel pad where the storage take will sit. At

that 665' level, if you want something like 50 psi pressure at the

outflow then you are in effect adding another 100' to the 665' for a

total effective lift of 765'. That would require a 2 hp pump to

deliver 10 gpm, so you are well set on the pump size.


Just a nit pick. Your 365' lift is only operable when the well is
"pumped dry". It will be less than that when the pump first kicks
in. Less by how much? depends on the static water level at the
start and increases as the level decreases


If you're going to pick nits, you could ask him to re-read the sentence "The old
pad foundation where the original storage tank was located is up a
hill about 300 feet from the well head and is elevated about 30 to 35 feet
higher than the well head and pressure tanks."

On Monday, July 22, 2013 1:33:45 PM UTC-7, Bob F wrote:
Harry K wrote:

On Monday, July 22, 2013 7:02:27 AM UTC-7, CRNG wrote:

On Mon, 22 Jul 2013 02:44:01 +0000, Coccopine



wrote in



f354e$51ec9c71$cf3aab60$5185@news. Re Well



Storage Tank Set-up and Installation:







I purchased a home a couple years ago that was a foreclosure home.

It is



way out in the country and runs on a well system. The well is

about 365 ft



deep and has a 3HP 230V 60hz submersible pump set at about 350 ft

down the



well. Up a hill about 300 ft from the well head is a concrete and

gravel



pad where a water storage tank used to sit.







Just to clarify, you are lifting water 365' to the well head and



another 300' to the gravel pad where the storage take will sit. At



that 665' level, if you want something like 50 psi pressure at the



outflow then you are in effect adding another 100' to the 665' for a



total effective lift of 765'. That would require a 2 hp pump to



deliver 10 gpm, so you are well set on the pump size.





Just a nit pick. Your 365' lift is only operable when the well is

"pumped dry". It will be less than that when the pump first kicks

in. Less by how much? depends on the static water level at the

start and increases as the level decreases





If you're going to pick nits, you could ask him to re-read the sentence "The old

pad foundation where the original storage tank was located is up a

hill about 300 feet from the well head and is elevated about 30 to 35 feet

higher than the well head and pressure tanks."

Jeez, I missed that!!

Harry K

On 7/21/2013 10:14 PM, Harry K wrote:
On Sunday, July 21, 2013 7:44:01 PM UTC-7, Coccopine wrote:
I purchased a home a couple years ago that was a foreclosure home. It is

way out in the country and runs on a well system. The well is about 365 ft

deep and has a 3HP 230V 60hz submersible pump set at about 350 ft down the

well. Up a hill about 300 ft from the well head is a concrete and gravel

pad where a water storage tank used to sit. I am told that the previous

owners removed the storage tank and booster pump system when they left the

home during the foreclosure process. The first year I was in the home I

was too busy moving in etc to worry much about the outside landscaping

needs. This year I repaired all the landscaping water lines etc and

started to water everything the way it should have been and discovered an

issue. The well pump is capable of pumping about 20 gallons a minute from

the well but the well appears to only be capable of supplying about 7 to 8

gallons per minute. Therefore it pumps like crazy for about 15 minutes and

then begins to starve.

using HomeOwnersHub's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface

to home and garden related groups

The big cost will be the tank but you may be able to find a used one somewhere.

Can't help much as haven't worked them but below is one way to do it, may not
be the professional way though.

Basic set up is to run your well pump on a timer to limit how long it can run
without running out of water feeding the tank. A float switch in the tank to
tell the pump when the tank is full.

Another way to stop the pump when the well water level is drawn down to
where the pump is is a "pump saver"
http://www.symcom.com/documentation/...df/SS_233P.pdf
this is one version, the company makes others. And other companies may
make them.

The "pump saver" looks at the pump current (or might look at the actual
power). When the water level drops to the pump, water is no longer being
pumped and the current goes down (power goes down much more). The
"saver" senses the current drop and turns the pump off for a set period,
allowing the well to 'recharge'.

You need some way to prevent the pump from running when the well level
drops to the pump.


Sounds like there was a storage tank. Then a booster pump would pump
that water into a relatively small pressurized tank for the house. The
booster pump is controlled by a pressure switch on the pressure tank.
The pressurized tank is likely there, and the well pump now feeds it.

Depending on the layout, you may be able to gravity feed to the
landscape out of the storage tank.

On Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:29:07 AM UTC-4, bud-- wrote:
On 7/21/2013 10:14 PM, Harry K wrote:

On Sunday, July 21, 2013 7:44:01 PM UTC-7, Coccopine wrote:

I purchased a home a couple years ago that was a foreclosure home. It is



way out in the country and runs on a well system. The well is about 365 ft



deep and has a 3HP 230V 60hz submersible pump set at about 350 ft down the



well. Up a hill about 300 ft from the well head is a concrete and gravel



pad where a water storage tank used to sit. I am told that the previous



owners removed the storage tank and booster pump system when they left the



home during the foreclosure process. The first year I was in the home I



was too busy moving in etc to worry much about the outside landscaping



needs. This year I repaired all the landscaping water lines etc and



started to water everything the way it should have been and discovered an



issue. The well pump is capable of pumping about 20 gallons a minute from



the well but the well appears to only be capable of supplying about 7 to 8



gallons per minute. Therefore it pumps like crazy for about 15 minutes and



then begins to starve.



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The big cost will be the tank but you may be able to find a used one somewhere.



Can't help much as haven't worked them but below is one way to do it, may not

be the professional way though.



Basic set up is to run your well pump on a timer to limit how long it can run

without running out of water feeding the tank. A float switch in the tank to

tell the pump when the tank is full.



Another way to stop the pump when the well water level is drawn down to

where the pump is is a "pump saver"

http://www.symcom.com/documentation/...df/SS_233P.pdf

this is one version, the company makes others. And other companies may

make them.



The "pump saver" looks at the pump current (or might look at the actual

power). When the water level drops to the pump, water is no longer being

pumped and the current goes down (power goes down much more). The

"saver" senses the current drop and turns the pump off for a set period,

allowing the well to 'recharge'.



You need some way to prevent the pump from running when the well level

drops to the pump.





Sounds like there was a storage tank. Then a booster pump would pump

that water into a relatively small pressurized tank for the house. The

booster pump is controlled by a pressure switch on the pressure tank.

The pressurized tank is likely there, and the well pump now feeds it.



Depending on the layout, you may be able to gravity feed to the

landscape out of the storage tank.


If I were doing the setup, I would consider having a typical 100 gal
tank for the domestic water usage and having the big storage tank
serve the landscape, fire prevention needs. That way you don't have
say 3000 gal of water sitting around for bacteria etc to grow in that
then feeds the house itself.

On 7/24/2013 9:53 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:29:07 AM UTC-4, bud-- wrote:
On 7/21/2013 10:14 PM, Harry K wrote:

On Sunday, July 21, 2013 7:44:01 PM UTC-7, Coccopine wrote:

I purchased a home a couple years ago that was a foreclosure home. It is



way out in the country and runs on a well system. The well is about 365 ft



deep and has a 3HP 230V 60hz submersible pump set at about 350 ft down the



well. Up a hill about 300 ft from the well head is a concrete and gravel



pad where a water storage tank used to sit. I am told that the previous



owners removed the storage tank and booster pump system when they left the



home during the foreclosure process. The first year I was in the home I



was too busy moving in etc to worry much about the outside landscaping



needs. This year I repaired all the landscaping water lines etc and



started to water everything the way it should have been and discovered an



issue. The well pump is capable of pumping about 20 gallons a minute from



the well but the well appears to only be capable of supplying about 7 to 8



gallons per minute. Therefore it pumps like crazy for about 15 minutes and



then begins to starve.



using HomeOwnersHub's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface



to home and garden related groups



The big cost will be the tank but you may be able to find a used one somewhere.



Can't help much as haven't worked them but below is one way to do it, may not

be the professional way though.



Basic set up is to run your well pump on a timer to limit how long it can run

without running out of water feeding the tank. A float switch in the tank to

tell the pump when the tank is full.



Another way to stop the pump when the well water level is drawn down to

where the pump is is a "pump saver"

http://www.symcom.com/documentation/...df/SS_233P.pdf

this is one version, the company makes others. And other companies may

make them.



The "pump saver" looks at the pump current (or might look at the actual

power). When the water level drops to the pump, water is no longer being

pumped and the current goes down (power goes down much more). The

"saver" senses the current drop and turns the pump off for a set period,

allowing the well to 'recharge'.



You need some way to prevent the pump from running when the well level

drops to the pump.





Sounds like there was a storage tank. Then a booster pump would pump

that water into a relatively small pressurized tank for the house. The

booster pump is controlled by a pressure switch on the pressure tank.

The pressurized tank is likely there, and the well pump now feeds it.



Depending on the layout, you may be able to gravity feed to the

landscape out of the storage tank.


If I were doing the setup, I would consider having a typical 100 gal
tank for the domestic water usage and having the big storage tank
serve the landscape, fire prevention needs. That way you don't have
say 3000 gal of water sitting around for bacteria etc to grow in that
then feeds the house itself.

I like that idea. Then you would need additional controls - maybe a
solenoid valve from pump to each tank. And check valve and antisiphon
valve to storage tank.

On Wednesday, July 24, 2013 8:53:23 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:29:07 AM UTC-4, bud-- wrote:

On 7/21/2013 10:14 PM, Harry K wrote:


snip


Depending on the layout, you may be able to gravity feed to the



landscape out of the storage tank.





If I were doing the setup, I would consider having a typical 100 gal

tank for the domestic water usage and having the big storage tank

serve the landscape, fire prevention needs. That way you don't have

say 3000 gal of water sitting around for bacteria etc to grow in that

then feeds the house itself.

" I would consider having a typical 100 gal
tank for the domestic water usage" ???

I don't think I have ever seen a 100 gal tank used for domestic water.

Harry K

On Thursday, July 25, 2013 11:33:37 AM UTC-4, Harry K wrote:
On Wednesday, July 24, 2013 8:53:23 AM UTC-7, wrote:

On Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:29:07 AM UTC-4, bud-- wrote:



On 7/21/2013 10:14 PM, Harry K wrote:





snip





Depending on the layout, you may be able to gravity feed to the







landscape out of the storage tank.











If I were doing the setup, I would consider having a typical 100 gal



tank for the domestic water usage and having the big storage tank



serve the landscape, fire prevention needs. That way you don't have



say 3000 gal of water sitting around for bacteria etc to grow in that



then feeds the house itself.



" I would consider having a typical 100 gal

tank for the domestic water usage" ???



I don't think I have ever seen a 100 gal tank used for domestic water.



Harry K


I don't think they are common, because you usually don't need one
that big. But with a lower output well, they make sense. Somebody
must be buying them, Lowes has an 86 gal, a 115 gallon.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_424503-41278...ank&facetInfo=

On Thursday, July 25, 2013 11:41:02 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thursday, July 25, 2013 11:33:37 AM UTC-4, Harry K wrote:

On Wednesday, July 24, 2013 8:53:23 AM UTC-7, wrote:



On Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:29:07 AM UTC-4, bud-- wrote:







On 7/21/2013 10:14 PM, Harry K wrote:











snip











Depending on the layout, you may be able to gravity feed to the















landscape out of the storage tank.























If I were doing the setup, I would consider having a typical 100 gal







tank for the domestic water usage and having the big storage tank







serve the landscape, fire prevention needs. That way you don't have







say 3000 gal of water sitting around for bacteria etc to grow in that







then feeds the house itself.







" I would consider having a typical 100 gal



tank for the domestic water usage" ???







I don't think I have ever seen a 100 gal tank used for domestic water.







Harry K





I don't think they are common, because you usually don't need one

that big. But with a lower output well, they make sense. Somebody

must be buying them, Lowes has an 86 gal, a 115 gallon.



http://www.lowes.com/pd_424503-41278...ank&facetInfo=

Let me clarify one point. I meant "typical" in the context of
using a typical pressurized bladder tank for the domestic water.
If the point is that 100 gal is not typical, I agree with that.
The OP probably doesn't need one that big either. The well was
flowing at what, 7 gal a min? But if it were me, I'd err on the
side of a larger tank, in case the well rate drops at some point.

Coccopine wrote:

I purchased a home a couple years ago that was a foreclosure home.

(...)

Has anyone else noticed that "Coccopine" (the OP) hasn't played any role
in this thread since he started it?

On 7/25/13 6:38 PM, Home Guy wrote:
Coccopine wrote:

I purchased a home a couple years ago that was a foreclosure home.

(...)

Has anyone else noticed that "Coccopine" (the OP) hasn't played any role
in this thread since he started it?
ha

Not until now. That really doesn't seem all that unusual though.

replying to Dean Hoffman , Coccopine wrote:
""dh0496\" wrote:

Not until now. That really doesn't seem all that unusual though.


Hello to everyone and thank you. Sorry for not repsonding sooner but I
have been out of town for a couple of days. I have decided to simply go
ahead and hire the well company to handle my well issues since I don't
really have the time to mess with it. Thank you for all your suggestions
and advice.


--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...on-756558-.htm
using HomeOwnersHub's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface
to home and garden related groups

Coccopine wrote:

I have decided to simply go ahead and hire the well company to
handle my well issues since I don't really have the time to
mess with it.

Reminds me of that article that was posted here a few months ago about
how men these days aren't "handy" any more.

It talked about the excuses that some men gave to a real handyman they
hired to do the job for them. One of them was that "I don't have time
to do it myself". Ya - right.

On 7/26/13 7:11 AM, Home Guy wrote:
Coccopine wrote:

I have decided to simply go ahead and hire the well company to
handle my well issues since I don't really have the time to
mess with it.

Reminds me of that article that was posted here a few months ago about
how men these days aren't "handy" any more.

It talked about the excuses that some men gave to a real handyman they
hired to do the job for them. One of them was that "I don't have time
to do it myself". Ya - right.


I can easily see scenarios where lack of time is a real issue.
People who travel in their jobs might not be home long enough to deal
with things in a timely manner.
I work for a farm related business. Sixty, seventy, and eighty hour
weeks aren't all that unusual for people in farm related businesses in
the summer. That doesn't leave much time for R&R and necessary chores.
Most home projects can be delayed until slower times at work but some
can't.
Then there are people who volunteer their time to civic
organizations. More power to the ones who keep their commitments.

Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 7/26/13 7:11 AM, Home Guy wrote:
Coccopine wrote:

I have decided to simply go ahead and hire the well company to
handle my well issues since I don't really have the time to
mess with it.

Reminds me of that article that was posted here a few months ago about
how men these days aren't "handy" any more.

It talked about the excuses that some men gave to a real handyman they
hired to do the job for them. One of them was that "I don't have time
to do it myself". Ya - right.


I can easily see scenarios where lack of time is a real issue.
People who travel in their jobs might not be home long enough to deal
with things in a timely manner.
I work for a farm related business. Sixty, seventy, and eighty hour
weeks aren't all that unusual for people in farm related businesses in
the summer. That doesn't leave much time for R&R and necessary chores.
Most home projects can be delayed until slower times at work but some
can't.
Then there are people who volunteer their time to civic
organizations. More power to the ones who keep their commitments.
Hi,
Also there are some plain lazy buggers for sure. I am not, LOL!

Dean Hoffman wrote:

I have decided to simply go ahead and hire the well company to
handle my well issues since I don't really have the time to
mess with it.

I can easily see scenarios where lack of time is a real issue.
People who travel in their jobs might not be home long enough to
deal with things in a timely manner.

There are few enough americans that have a full-time job anymore.

There are fewer still that earn enough per-hour to compensate for what
this sort of job will cost. I don't see a job like this storage-tank
thing that requires skilled labor, special equipment, etc.

His tank could be a friggen $500 above-ground swimming pool for christ
sakes.

I work for a farm related business. Sixty, seventy, and eighty
hour weeks aren't all that unusual for people in farm related
businesses in the summer.

Aren't farmers the LAST people to hire someone when they can do it
themselves?

I doubt the OP is a farmer...

Home Guy wrote:
Dean Hoffman wrote:

I have decided to simply go ahead and hire the well company to
handle my well issues since I don't really have the time to
mess with it.

I can easily see scenarios where lack of time is a real issue.
People who travel in their jobs might not be home long enough to
deal with things in a timely manner.

There are few enough americans that have a full-time job anymore.

There are fewer still that earn enough per-hour to compensate for what
this sort of job will cost. I don't see a job like this storage-tank
thing that requires skilled labor, special equipment, etc.

His tank could be a friggen $500 above-ground swimming pool for christ
sakes.

I work for a farm related business. Sixty, seventy, and eighty
hour weeks aren't all that unusual for people in farm related
businesses in the summer.

Aren't farmers the LAST people to hire someone when they can do it
themselves?

I doubt the OP is a farmer...

Hi,
Modern farmers do the farming with computers. Most every thing is automated.

On 7/27/13 8:00 PM, Home Guy wrote:
Dean Hoffman wrote:

I work for a farm related business. Sixty, seventy, and eighty
hour weeks aren't all that unusual for people in farm related
businesses in the summer.

Aren't farmers the LAST people to hire someone when they can do it
themselves?

That depends partly on how busy they are at the time. The lack of
time can be a deciding issue especially at planting and harvest time.
Farm equipment is getting more complex as time goes on. Farmers
sometimes assume a problem is more complicated than it actually is.
They call repairmen when they don't need to at times because of that.
Quite a few farmers also hire to have their fields sprayed.
One thing that surprised me is how many farmers use crop consultants.
The consultants do the soil sampling for nutrients and check the
crops' development. They check for disease and insect infestations.
The consultants also check soil moisture levels in the summer and make
recommendations for irrigation.


I doubt the OP is a farmer...

Probably not. There are something like a million and a half
farmers left in the U.S.

On 7/28/2013 11:02 AM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 7/27/13 8:00 PM, Home Guy wrote:
Dean Hoffman wrote:

I work for a farm related business. Sixty, seventy, and eighty
hour weeks aren't all that unusual for people in farm related
businesses in the summer.

Aren't farmers the LAST people to hire someone when they can do it
themselves?

That depends partly on how busy they are at the time. The lack of time
can be a deciding issue especially at planting and harvest time.
Farm equipment is getting more complex as time goes on. Farmers
sometimes assume a problem is more complicated than it actually is. They
call repairmen when they don't need to at times because of that.
Quite a few farmers also hire to have their fields sprayed.
One thing that surprised me is how many farmers use crop consultants.
The consultants do the soil sampling for nutrients and check the crops'
development. They check for disease and insect infestations. The
consultants also check soil moisture levels in the summer and make
recommendations for irrigation.

....

Those are the mostly mechanistic reasons -- more fundamentally, any
farmer who is actually farming for a living these days is the CEO of a
(not necessarily all that small) business and his time is very often far
more valuable making decisions on such data and other management tasks
than it is in actually doing the work itself (altho I don't know a one
that doesn't have calloused hands and dirt under their fingernails).

Am one of the remaining 1+ M; while fairly small by local standards it's
no less true that most of my time is taken up w/ either the business end
or other management tasks; the larger the operation the more true it
becomes.

But even 50 years ago, father and even grandfather before him had a
judgment of what was or was not time-effective use of their available
time and what went to town. When time for harvesting or sowing wheat
came around, replacing bearings in the drill disks and new scrapers was
homework; an engine needing rebuilding almost certainly went to town
simply owing to the time and complexity. Partly that was constrained by
the fact that at that time we did not have the fully-equipped enclosed,
heated/cooled/lighted shop; everything had to happen outside. Now could
take on a lot of things didn't then but on the way equipment has
improved so the frequency of those kinds of jobs has gone down. The
point on complexity is, however, real--there are just many things that
owing to the computerized nature of even things like air seeders that
just require the specialized gear of the dealer shop.

OTOH, while that's an expense, the scale and precision and resulting
combination of more acres/hour and better results afterwards makes the
features not only desirable but mandatory to actual be profitable with
such high input costs as are today.

--

On 7/28/13 2:03 PM, dpb wrote:
..

Some cut.

Those are the mostly mechanistic reasons -- more fundamentally, any
farmer who is actually farming for a living these days is the CEO of a
(not necessarily all that small) business and his time is very often far
more valuable making decisions on such data and other management tasks
than it is in actually doing the work itself (altho I don't know a one
that doesn't have calloused hands and dirt under their fingernails).

Am one of the remaining 1+ M; while fairly small by local standards it's
no less true that most of my time is taken up w/ either the business end
or other management tasks; the larger the operation the more true it
becomes.

Rest of a good explanation cut due to AIOE quotation limit.

That reminds me of a time I repaired an irrigation system for a guy.
He naturally asked what I'd fixed. My explanation must've gotten a
little long winded. He cut me off and said:
"Never mind. I can always hire you to fix that stuff. I need to spend
my time managing the money."